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Index for “dreghorn castle”

xii OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH .
~
PACE
Leith Roads. 1824 . . . . . . . 276
Tlu East and West Piers. Leith . . To facc pup 283
The Edinburgh Dock. Leith . . . . . . . 284
Views in Leith Docks: General Entrance to the
Docks ; Albert Dock. looking north ; Queen’s
Dock ; Albert Dock. looking east ; Victoria Dock 285 . . . . . . . . Inchkeith 293
Newhaven. from the Pier . . . . . . 296
Remaim of St . James’s Chapel. Newhaven . . 297
Main Street. Newhaven . . . . . . 300
Sculptured Stone. Newhaven . . . . . 301
Rev . Dr . Fairbairn . . . . . . . 304
Newhaven Fishwives . . . . . . . 305
Map of Granton and Neighbourhood . . . . 308
Caroliiie Park ; Ruins of Granton Castle ; East Pilton 309
Old Entrance to Royston (now Caroline Park). 1851 . 312
Granton Harbour and Pier . . . . . 313
Cramond . . . . . . Tofacepage 315
The “Twa Brigs. ”Cramond . . . . . 315
O!d Cramond Brig . . . . . . . 316
View below CramondBrig . . . . . . 317
Old Saughton Bridge ; Old Saughton House ; Earnton
House; Cramond Church . . . . . 320
Coliiiton . . . . . . . . . . . 321
Dreghorn Castle . . . . . . . 324
MapoC the Environs of Edinburgh . . . . 325
PAGE
The Battle or Camus Stone. Comiston . . . 326
Liberton . . . . . . To!are$o:e 327
finally Tawer . . . . . . . . 328
Liberton Tower . . . . . . . . 329
Niddrie House . . . . . . . . 332
LennaxTower . . . . . . . 3 533
Currie . . . . . . . . . 336
RullionGreen . . . . . . . 7 337
Inch House . . . . . . . . 340
Knight Teniplar’s Tomb. Currie Churchyard . . 331
Ednionstone House . . . .
Gilmerton . . . . . .
Drum House . . . . .
Roslin Castle and Glen . + .
Roslin Chapel : North Front . .
Roslin Chapel : The Chancel i
Roslin Chapel : The ‘“Prentice Pillar ‘ I
Rcslin Chapel : View h n i the Chancel
Lasswade . . . . . . .
Roslin Chapel : Interior . . .
Hawthornden. 1773 . . . . .
Melville Castle. 1776. . . . .
Hawthornden, 188j . i 8
Lasswadechurch. 1773 . s .
Melville Castle. 1883 . . . .
New Hailes House . . 4 .
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To face p a p
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341
344
345
348
349
3.52
353
356
357
357
358
360
361
363
364
365 ... . . . . . 320 Coliiiton . . . . . . . . . . . 321 Dreghorn Castle . . . . . . . 324 MapoC the Environs of ...

Vol. 6  p. 402 (Rel. 2.1)

Colinton.] JUNIPER GREEN. 323
when the village was occupied on the 18th August
by ten companies of Monk’s Regiment (now the
Coldstream Guards), of which Captain Gough of
Berwick was lieutenant-colonel, and Captain
Holmes of Newcastle, major, prior to the storming
of the fortalices of Redhall and Colinton, before
the 24th of the same month. (“Records: Cold.
Guards.”) Redhall, in after years, was the patrimony
of Captain John Inglis, of H.M.S. Be&
pueux, who, at the battle of Camperdown, whq
confused by the signals of the admiral, shouted
with impatience to his sailing-master, ‘‘ Hang it,
Jock ! doon wi’ the helm, and gang iicht into the
middle o’t ! ” closing his telescope as he spoke.
Old Colinton House was, at the period of the
Protectorate, occupied by the Foulis family (now
represented by that of Woodhall in the same parish)
whose name is alleged to be a corruption of the
Norman, as their arms are azure, their bay leaves
uert, in old Norman called fed&. Be that as it
may, the family is older than is stated by Sir Bernard
Burke, as there were two senators of the College
of Justice, each Lord Colinton respectively-James
Foulis in 1532, and John Foulis in 1541; and
there was a James. Fodlis of Colinton, who lived
in the reigns of Mary and James VI., who married
Apes Heriot of Lumphoy, whose tombstone is yet
preserved in an aisle of Colinton Church, and
bears this inscription :-
HERE. LYES. ANE. HONORABIL. WOMAN. A. HERIOT.
SPOVS. TO . J. FOULIS . OF . COLLINT3VN. VAS. QUHA .
DEID . 8 . AUGUST. 1593.
They had four sons-James, who succeeded to
the estate; George, progenitor of the house of
Ravelston ; David, progenitor of the English family
of Ingleby Manor, Yorkshire ; and John, of ?he
Leadhills, whose granddaughter became ancestress
of the Earls of Hopetoun.
Alexander Foulis, of Colinton, was created a
baronet of Nova Scotia in 1634, and his son Sir
James, whose house was stormed by the troops of
Monk, having attended a convention of the estates
in Angus, was betrayed into the hands of the English,
together with the Earls of Leven, Crawford,
Marischal, the Lord Ogilvy, and many others, who
were surprised by a party of Cromwell’s cavalry,
under Colonel Aldridge, on August, 1651, and
taken as prisoners of war to London. He married
Barbara Ainslie of Dolphinton, but, by a case
reported by Sir James Dalrymple of Stair, in 1667,
he would seem to have been in a treaty of marriage
with Dame Margaret Erskine, Lady Tarbet, which
led to a somewhat involved suit before the Lords
of Council and Session. After the Restoration he
was raised to the-Bench as Lord Colinton, and was
succeeded by his son, also a Lord of Session, and
a member of the last Scottish Parliament in 1707,
the year of the Union.
he joined the Duke of Hamilton,
the Earl of Athol, and many others of the nobility
and gentry, in their celebrated protest made by the
Earl of Errol, respecting the most constitutional
defence of the house of legislature, He also
joined in the protest, which declared that an incorpotating
union of the two nations was inconsistent
with the honour of Scotland.”
Further details of this family will be found in
the account of Ravelston (p. 106).
The mansions and villas of many other families
are in this somewhat secluded district ; the principal
one is perhaps the modern seat of the late
Lord Dunfermline, on a beautifully wooded hill
overhanging the village on the south. Colinton
House was built by Sir William Forbes of Pitsligo,
Bart. Near it, the remains of the old edifice, of the
same name, form a kind of decorative ruin.
Dreghorn Castle, a stately modern edifice, with
a conspicuous round tower, is situated on the
northern slope of the Pentlands, at an elevation of
489 feet above the sea. John Maclaurin, son of
Colin Maclaurin, the eminent mathematician, was
called to the bench as Lord Dreghorn. A learned
correspondence, which took place in 17 go, between
him, Lord Monboddo, and M. Le Chevalier, afterwards
secretary to Talleyrand, on the site of Troy,
will be found in the Scots Magazine for 1810.
The name of this locality is very old, as among
the missing crown charters of Robert II., is one
confirming a lease by Alexander Meygners of
Redhall, to Robert, Earl of Fife and Menteith, of
the barony of Redhall in the shire of Edinburgh,
except Dreghorn and Woodhall; and of the barony
of Glendochart in Perthshire, during the said Earl’s
life. In the early part of the eighteenth century
it was the property of a family named Home.
Near Woodhall, in the parish of Colinton, is the
little modern village of Juniper Green, chiefly
celebrated as being the temporary residence of
Thomas Carlyle, some time after his marriage at
Comely Bank, Stockbridge, where, as he tells us in
his ‘‘ Reminiscences ” (edited by Mr. Froude), “his
first experience in the difficulties of housekeeping
began.” Carlyle’s state of health required perfect
quiet, if not absolute solitude; but at Juniper
Green, as at Comely Bank, their house was much
frequented by the literary society of the day; and,
among others, by Chalmers, Guthrie, and Lord
Jeffrey, whose intimacy with Carlyle .rapidly increased
after the first visit he paid him at Comely
Bank. “He was much taken with my little
-4fter that ... old edifice, of the same name, form a kind of decorative ruin. Dreghorn Castle , a stately modern edifice, ...

Vol. 6  p. 323 (Rel. 2)

324 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Colinton.
Jeannie, as well he might be”-wrote Carlyle in
1867-“0ne of the brightest and cleverest creatures
in the whole world; full of innocent rustic simplicity
and variety, yet with the gracefullest discernment,
and calmly natural deportment ; instinct
with beauty to the finger-ends ! . , . Jeffrey’s
acquaintanceship seemed, and was, for the . time,
an immense acquisition to me, and everybody regarded
it as my highest good fortune, though in
the end it did not practically amount to much.
from its resemblance to the Chinese petunse or
kaolin, out of which the finest native china is
made, it has obtained the name of Petunsepenibndica.
Boulders of granite, gneiss, and other primitive
rocks, lie on the very summits of the Pentlands,
and jaspers of great beauty are frequently found
there. These summits and glens, though possessing
little wood, are generally verdant, and abound
in beauty and boldness of contour. The fine pas-
DREGHORN CASTLE,
Meantime it was very pleasant, and made us feel
as if no longer cut off and isolated, but fairly
admitted, or like to be admitted, and taken in
tow by the world and its actualities.”
A portion of the beautiful Pentland range rises
in the parish of Colinton. Cairketton Craigs on
the boundary between it and Lasswade, the most
northerly of the mountains, are 1,580 feet in height
above the level of the Firth of Forth ; the Allermuir
Hill and Capelaw Hill rise westward of it,
with Castlelaw to the south, 1,595 feet in height.
Cairketton Craigs are principally composed of
clayey felspar, strongly impregnated with black
oxide of iron. This substance, but for its inipregnation,
would be highly useful to the potter, and
tures sustain numerous flocks of sheep, and exhibit
various landscapes of pleasing pastoral romance,
whiie their general undulating outline alike arrests
and delights the eye.
The view from Torphin, one of the low heads of
the Pentlands, is said to be exactly that of the
vicinity of Athens, as seen from the base of Mount
Anchesimus. “Close upon the right,” wrote Grecian
Wliams, ‘‘ Brilessus is represented by the hills of
Braid; before us in the dark and abrupt mass of
the Castle rises the Acropolis; the hill of Lycabettus
joined to that of Areopagus, appears in
the Calton; in the Firth of Forth we behold the
agean Sea ; in Inchkeith Bgina ; and the hills
of the Peloponnesus are precisely those of the ... beauty and boldness of contour. The fine pas- DREGHORN CASTLE , Meantime it was very pleasant, and made ...

Vol. 6  p. 324 (Rel. 1.91)

did not correspond in paint of date with the
shirts they accompanied.” Lord Napier died in
1823.
His house, together with Nos. 70 and 72 (in the
early part of the century the abode of John Mill,
Esq., of Noranside), became afterwards one large
private hotel, attached to the Hopetoun Rooms.
In the former the late Duchess of Kent and others
ff note frequently put up, and in the latter many
important meetings and banquets have been held.
Among these notably was the one given to Sir
Edward Bulwer Lytton in 1854 on the occasion
of his inauguration as President of the Associated
Societies of the University. Sk William Stirling
of Keir, M.P., occupied the chair, and the croupiers
were Sir Jarnes Y. Simpson and Professor
Blackie. When the army and navy were proposed,
Professor -4ytoun facetiously responded for the
latter as “ Admiral of Orkney,” being sheriff of
those isles, and in reply to an eloquent address of
Bulwer‘s, which he closed by coupling the health of
CHAPTER XXI.
THE STREETS CROSSING GEORGE STREET, AND THOSE PARALLEL WITH IT.
Sir Archibald -4lison with the literature of Scotland,
the latter replied, and introduced some political
and anti-national remarks that caused disapprobation.
The whole street front of the three houses is now
occupied by the Edinburgh Educational Institution,
or Ladies’ College, where above 1,000 pupils
(under the care of the Merchant Company) receive
a course of study embracing English, French,
German, Latin, and all the usual branches of
literature, to which are added calisthenics, dancing,
needlework, and cookery. The edifice was opened
in October, 1876, and has as life governor the
Earl of Mar and Kellie.
After the formation of Queen Street, the now
beautiful gardens that lie between it and Heriot
Row and Abercrombie Place were long a neglected
waste. It was not until 1823 that they were enclosed
by parapet walls and iron railings, and were
laid out in pleasure-walks and shrubberies for the
inhabitants of these lodties.
Rose Street-Miss Bums and Bailie Creech-Sir Egerton high-Robert Pollok-Thistle Street-The Dispensary-Hill Stmt-Count
d‘Albany-SL Andnw Street-Hugo Amot-David, Earl of Buchan-St. David Street-David Hum-Sir Walter Scott and Basil Hall-
Hanover Street-% J. Gnham Dalyell-Offices of Association for the Improvement of the Poor-Frederick Strat-Granr of Corrimony-
Castle Street-A Dinnu with Sir Wdter Scott-Skcne of Rubislaw-key N a p i e r a t l e Street and Charlotte Street.
IN 1784 the magistrates made several deviations
from the plan and elevations for building in the
New Town; and at that time the names and
designs for the two Meuse Lanes, running parallel
with George Street, but on the south and north
sides thereof, were changed to Rose Street and
Thistle Street. These were accordingly built in an
inferior style of architecture and of rougher work,
for the accommodation of shopkeepers and others,
with narrower lanes for stabling purposes behind
them.
Rose Street and Thistle Street lie thus on each
side of the great central street of the first New
Town, at the distance of zoo feet, and are, like it,
2,430 feet long, but only thirty broad.
The first inhabitants were at least people of the
respectable class; but one lady who resided in
Rose Street in 1789 obtained a grotesque notoriety
from the manner in which she became embroiled
with the magistrates, and bad her named linked
with that of Bailie-afterwards Lord Provost-
Creech. Miss Burns was a native of Durham,
where her father had been a man of wealth, but
became unfortunate ; thus his family were thrown
on the world. His daughter appeared in Edinburgh
in 1789, when she had barely completed her
twentieth year, and there ’her youth, her remarkable
beauty, and the extreme length to which she
camed the then extravagant mode of dress, .attracted
such notice on the evening promenades
that she was brought before the ’bailies at the
instance of some of her neighbours, more particularly
Lord Swinton,-who died in 1799, and whose
back windows faced hers in Rose Street ; and she
was banished the city, with the threat from Bailie
Creech that if she returned she would get six
months in the House of Correction, and thereafter
be drummed out.
Against this severe decision she appealed to the
Court of Session, presenting a Bill of Suspension
to the Lordordinary (Dreghorn), which was refused ;
it came before the whole bench eventually, and
“the court was pleased to remit to the Lord
Ordinzry to pass the Bill.”
The papers now became filled with squibs at the
expense of Bailie Creech, and a London journal ... not correspond in paint of date with the shirts they accompanied.” Lord Napier died in 1823. His house, ...

Vol. 3  p. 158 (Rel. 1.1)

3 18 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [cogs.
p. baronet of Nova Scotia by James VII., in
1687.
The close of the family is thus recorded in the
Scottish Register for 1795 :-“September I. At
Cramond House, died Adam, Inglis, Esq., last
surviving son af Sir John Inglis of Cramond, Bart.
He was instructed in grammar and learning at the
High School -and University of Edinburgh, and at
the Warrington Academy in Lancashire ; studied
law at Edinburgh, and was ca!led to thc bar in
1782. In May, 1794~ was appointed lieutenant of
one of the Midlothian troops of cavalry, in which
he paid the most assiduous attention to the raising
and discipline of the men. On the 23rd August
he was attacked with fever, and expired on the
1st September, in the thirty-fourth year of his age,
unmarried.” Cramond House is now the seat of
the Craigie-Halkett family.
Some three miles south of Cramond lies the district
of Gogar, an ancient and suppressed parish, a
great portion of which is now included in that of
Corstorphine Gogar signifies ‘‘ light,” according
to some “etymological notices,” by Sir Janies
Foulis of Colinton, probably from some signal
given to an army, as there are, he adds, marks of
a battle having taken p1ac.e to the westward‘; but
his idea is much more probably deduced from the
place named traditionally “ the Flashes,” the scene
of Leslie’s repulse of Cromwell in 1650. The
name is more probably Celtic The “ Ottadeni
and Gadeni,” says a statistical writer, ‘‘ the British
descendants of the first colonists, enjoyed their
original land during the second century, and have
left memorials of their existence in the names
of the Forth, the Almond, the Esk, the Leith,
the Gore, the Gogar, and of Cramond, Cockpen,
Dreghorn,” etc.
The church of Gogar was much older than that
of Corstorphine, but was meant for a scanty population.
A small part of it still exists, and after
the Reformation was set apart as a burial-place for
the lords of the manor.
Gogar was bestowed by Robert Bruce on his
trusty comrade in many a well-fought field, Sir
Alexander Seton, one of the patriots who signed
that famous letter to the Pope in 1330, asserting
the independence of the Scots ;’ and vowing that
so long as one hundred of them remained alive,
they would never submit to the King of England.
He was killed in battle at Kinghorn in 1332.
Soon after this establishment the Parish of Gogar
was acquired by the monks of Holyrood; but
before the reign of James V. it had been constituted
an independent rectory. In 1429 Sir John Forrester
conferred its tithes on his collegiate church at
Corstorphine, and made it one of the prebends
there.
In June, 1409, Walter Haliburton, of Dirleton, in
a charter dated from that place, disposed of the
lands and milne of Goga to his brother George.
Among the witnesses were the Earls of March and
Orkney, Robert of Lawder, and others. In 1516
the lands belonged to the Logans of Restalrig and
others, and during the reign of James VI. were in
possession of Sir Alexander Erskine, Master of Mar,
appointed Governor of Edinburgh Castle in I 5 78.
Though styled “the Master,” he was in reality
the second son of John, twelfth Lord Erskine, and
is stated by Douglas to have been an ancestor of
the Earls of Kellie, and was Vice-ChamberIain of
Scotland. His son, Sir Thomas Erskine, also of
Gogar, was in 1606 created Viscount Fenton, and
thirteen years afterwards Earl of Kellie and Lord
Dirleton.
In 1599, after vain efforts had been made by its
few parishioners to raise sufficient funds for an idcumbent,
the parish of Gogar was stripped of its
independence ; and of the two villages of Nether
Gogar and Gogar Stone, which it formerly contained,
the latter has disappeared, and the popu-
Iation of the former numbered a few years ago only
twenty souls.
Grey Cooper, of Gogar, was made a baronet ot
Nova Scotia in 1638.
In 1646 the estate belonged to his son Sir John
Cooper, Bart., and in 1790 it was sold by Sir Grey
Cooper, M.P., to the Ramsays, afterwards of Barnton.
A Cooper of Gogar is said to have been one
Df the first persons who appeared in the High
Street of Edinburgh in a regular coach. They
were, as already stated, baronets of 1638, and after
them came the Myrtons of Gogar, baronets of 1701,
md now extinct.
On the muir of Gogar, in 1606, during the prevalence
of a plape, certain little “ lodges” were
built by James Lawriston, and two other persons
named respectively David and George Hamilton,
for the accommodation of the infected ; but these
edifices were violently destroyed by Thomas Marjoribanks,
a portioner of Ratho, on the plea that their
erection was an invasion of his lands, yet the Lords
of the Council ordered theni to be re-built’“ where
they may have the best commodity of water,’’ as
the said muir was common property.
The Edinburgh Cowant for April, 1723, records
that on the 30th of the preceding March, ‘‘ Mrs.
Elizabeth Murray, lady toThomas Kincaid, younger,
of Gogar Mains,” was found dead on the road from
Edinburgh to that place, with all the appearance of
having been barbarously murdered. ... 18 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [cogs. p. baronet of Nova Scotia by James VII., in 1687. The close of the family is ...

Vol. 6  p. 318 (Rel. 1.05)

ramparts
castle
scotts monument
princes street
mons meg
edinburgh castle
military
barracks ... monument princes street mons meg edinburgh ...

Vol. 1  p. v (Rel. 1.02)

THE FREE CHURCH COLLEGE. 95 The Mound.]
Much of all this was altered when the bank was
enlarged, restored, and most effectively re-decorated
by David Bryce, R.S.A., in 1868-70. It now
presents a lofty, broad, and arch-based rear front of
colossal proportions to Princes Street, from whence,
and every other poiiit of view, it forms a conspicuous
mass, standing boldly from among the
many others that form the varied outline of the
Old Town, and consists of the great old centre with
new wings, surmounted by a fine dome, crowned
by a gilded figure of Fame, seven feet high. In
length the facade measures 175 feet; and 112 in
height from the pavement in Bank Street to the
summit, and is embellished all round with much
force and variety, in details of a Grecian style.
The height of the campanile towers is ninety feet.
The bank has above seventy branches ; the subscribed
capital in 1878 was A1,875,000 ; the paidup
capital LI,Z~O,OOO. There are a governor (the
Earl of Stair, K.T.), a deputy, twelve ordinary
and twelve extra-ordinary directors.
The Bank of Scotland issues drafts on other
places in Scotland besides those in which it has
branches, and also on the chief towns in England
and Ireland, and it has correspondents throughout
the whole continent of Europe, as well as in
British America, the States, India, China, Australia,
New Zealand, South Africa, and elsewhere-a ramification
of business beyond the wildest dreams oi
John Holland and the original projectors of the
establishment in the old Bank Close in 1695.
Concerning the Earthen Mound, the late Alex.
ander Trotter of Dreghorn had a scheme foi
joining the Qld Town to the New, and yet avoiding
Bank Street, by sinking the upper end of the
mound to the leve! of Princes Street, and carrying
the Bank Street end of it eastward along the north
of the Bank of Scotland, in the form of a handsomc
terrace, and thence south into the High Street b)
an opening right upon St. Giles’s Church. Thf
next project was one by the late Sir Thomas Dick
Lauder. He also proposed to bring down thc
south end of the mound “to the level of Prince;
Street, and then to cut a Roman arch through thc
Lawnmarket and under the houses, so as to pas!
on a level to George Square. This,” say!
Cockburn, “was both practical and easy, but i
was not expounded till too late.’’
Not far from the Bank of Scotland, in I(
North Bank Street, ensconced among the might!
mass of buildings that overlook the mound, arc
the offices of the National Security Savings Ban1
of.Edinburgh, established under statute in 1836, an(
certified in terms of the Act 26 and 27 Victoria
cap. 87, managed by a chairman and cominittel
I
if management, the Bank of Scotland being
reasurer.
Of this most useful institution for the benefit of
,he thrifty poorer classes, suffice it to say, as a
ample of its working, that on striking the yearly
iccounts on the 20th of November, 1880, “the
balance due to depositors was on that date
&r,305,27g 14s. 7d., and that the assets at the
same date were x1,3og,3g2 Ss., invested with the
Commissioners for the Reduction of the National
Debt, and A3,1o4 3s. gd., at the credit of the
3ank’s account in the Bank of Scotland, making
the total assets L1,312,496 11s. gd., which, after
ieductionof the above sum of L1,305,279 14s. 7d.,
leaves a clear surplus of A7916 17s. zd. at the
:redit of the trustees.”
The managers are, ex oficio, the Lord Provost,
the Lord Advocate, the senior Bailie of the city,
:he Members of Parliament for the city, county,
md Leith, the Provost of Leith, the Solicitor-
General, the Convener of the Trades, the Lord
Dean of Guild, and the Master of the Merchant
Company.
In the sanie block of buildings are the offices of
the Free Church of Scotland, occupying the site of
the demolished half of James’s Court. They were
erected in 1851-61, and are in a somewhat
Rorid variety of the Scottish baronial style, from
designs by the late David Cousin.
In striking contrast to the terraced beauty of the
New Town, the south side of the vale of the old
loch, from the North Bridge to the esplanade of
the Castle, is overhung by the dark and lofty gables
and abutments of those towering edifices which
terminate the northern alleys of the High Street,
and the general grouping of which presents an
aspect of equal romance and sublimity. From
amid these sombre masses, standing out in the
white purity of new freestone, are the towers and
facade of the Free Church College and Assembly
Hall, at the head of the Mound.
Into the history of the crises which called
these edifices into existence we need not enter
here, but true it is, as Macaulay says, that for the
sake of religious opinion the Scots have made
sacrifices for which there is no parallel in the
annals of England; and when, at the Disruption,
so many clergymen of the Scottish Church cast
their bread upon the waters, in that spirit of
independence and self-reliance so characteristic of
the race, they could scarcely have foreseen the
great success of their movement.
This new college was the first of those instituted
in connection with the Free Church. The idea
was origipally entertained of making provision for ... FREE CHURCH COLLEGE. 95 The Mound.] Much of all this was altered when the bank was enlarged, restored, and ...

Vol. 3  p. 95 (Rel. 1.01)

GENERAL INDEX 37s
Douglas, Sir William the Black
Knight ofliddesdal;, II.53,III.
354. 355
Dou&s, Baron, 11. 351
Dough., Lady Jane, Execution of,
Douglas of Grantully, Lady Jane,
1. 208, 158, 384, 11. 9, 1x5, 318,
349-351, 111. 9'
Douglas-Stewart, Lady Jane, Story
1. 83. 84
of 11.344.34
Doiglas, Lady?-z::es, 111. 311
Douglas, Campbell, architect, 111.
155
11. 1g0 ; his dagghter, ib.
Douglas General, 1. 281
Do.glas:WiIliam,minialurepainter,
Douglas, the painter, 11. 89, 90
nouglas. the clan, 11. q, 111. 19
" Dou las " the tragedy of, 11, =+,
21 , , . Douglcu, Dr., p&:$G4~I. zg8
Douglas, Francis Brown, Lord Pro-
Dougk Heron &Co. thebanken,
Douglas'Hotel, St. hndrew Square,
Douglas. Abbot William, 11. 48,
Doune, Lord, 11. zoo, 111. 3 4
Doune Tenace. 11. zoo, 111. 74
Dovecots, Superstitious belief in,
Dover, Duke of, 11. 36
Dow Craig, The, 11. 19 IOI, 1.06
Dowie Johnnie, I. rig, 19 * I +
his therm 1. 3 121
"Dowie Coilege:' Club, 1. xi9
Drama, The early Edinburgh, 11.
23, a+, w; denounced by the
Presbytery, II.24,39 ; theCalton
Hill plays 11. IDrawbridge'lhe
Leith 111. I 8
Dreghorn, iord, '11. 156,166, 911.
Dreghorn Castle. 111. 323, *324
Drem Haronyof 11. 233
Dres; Scottish &like of English
Dress 0; the Scottish gentry I
Dromedary A travelling 11. 15
Drum Ha&, 1. 95, 111.'*345, 34<
Drum Sands. near Cramond. 111
17, 151.
vost 11. 284
II. 19: failur; of 11'. 35
I. mz, 11. 174 342
111. 116
111. 319
32 3
in 1;g 11. 280
centuryago, 111. ~ 3 9
brother, 111. 75
hummond of Hawthornden thi
pat and historian, I. IS+, I1
a?, 54.62, 127, 217, =2,zSg, 111
26 28 ,354.35 ; Ben onson'
vi:it, ii?. 354 ; tte cavalier an<
poet,III. 355; hisloves,ib.; hi
death ib.
Drummbnd, Bishop W i l l i Aber
nethy, 1. a6r, a64
Drummond, Colin, physician, 11
299,301
Drummond, Dr. John, 11.147
Drummond, Gearge, I. 176, 183
Drummond Hay, Coins of, 11. 87
Drummond, am-, artist and anti
UXkUl, It'. b,'III.84, I W , ~
I)rummond Jean I. ga
Drummond of &mock, The, Ill
Drummoud Place. I. 217. 280. I1
Irawings by, I. *at%, *368
354 .. .
'9'7 1927 I 7 289 Drummond $&e Gardens, 11. 19
Drumniond Street, I. 38, 11. 3 y
335. 338, 111. 3, 7
Drummore Lord I. 251 11. 348
DrumquhGel d i r d of,'I. 259, 26
Drumsheunh 'villane. 11. 211. w
111. 7rr y65; vicw'from, 11i.x-6
Drumsheugh, Forest of, I. 237, 11
%h 14:
Drumsheugh House, 11. 115,
Drumsheugh Park, 111. 70, fl
111. 139
h r y , Sir Willim, I. 48, 49, 116,
)ruds gun-battery, I. fl, 330
111. 238 ; trcachcry Of, 111. 133,
134
Duchess of Bragarm," Play of
the, I. 343
hddingston, I. 383, 11. 'go, 303,
307, *309, 3x1, 3139 3141 315, 316,
3x7, 318. 347. 111. 86. 131, 134,
146, 165,314 ; origin of the name,
11. 914 ; barony of 11. 316
hddingston Chnrc'h, 11. * 312:
*313,314; gatewayof,II.*314,
famous ministers of, 11. 315, 317
hddingston House 11. 317
3uddineston Loch,'I. 8, 11, 203,
327, 11. 86, 315. *316, 111. 58,
143 ; skating thereon, 11. 315
h f f , the actor, I. 350
Iuffus, Lady, 11. 333
hgdd Stewart's monument, 11.
den, 111. 3567 357
1.9, * I11
Duke of Albany (see Jam= Duke
Duke of Albany's Own Hwh-
Duke oi Hamilton's apartments,
Duke S t m t 11.117 181
Duke's Walk, The,'I. 8, 3la, 11.
Dumfries, &:f, I. go, 11. 166,
of Albany)
landers 11.
H o l p d &lace, I. 326
3'33, 306, 07
111. 12
Square I1 343
Dumbrect's Hotel, St. Andrew
Dunbar kari of 111. 143
Dunba; Sir Jaies 11.2%
Dunbar: william, burns' lines on,
I. 142, 235, 236, 11. 255
Dunbar Battle of (sec Battles)
Dunbar$ Close I. 6, 5511. 3
Duocan, AdmLl, 11.343, 111. 158,
"23
3797 384,II.I54,174 31% 111.39
Duncan, Dr. .Andrev, physician, 1.
Duncan Lady 11.343
Duncan: the p h e r , 11. 93
Duncan's Land, 111. 78
Dundas. Sir Lawrence, I. 217, XI.
nu,'& Sir ?homas, 11. l a
Dundas: Henry, Viscount Melville
Dundas. Lord Chief B a n . 11.210.
86 196, 171 282
(sec Melville)
343
Dundas, Robcrt Lord Amiston 1.
123,15g,172, 42, 11. 39 II1.;83
Dundas, President, fatie; of Lord
Melville, 1. 242, 346, 11. 210
Dundas, Lord Pradent, I. &,It.
38
Dundas, Lord Advocate, 11.343
Dundas, Sir David, 1. 366, 11. 287.
111. 105. 264: d o t e of h i
. . bf, rri. 7
111. 86,105
Dnnda. oJAske, Bamn, 11. 171
Dundas of Bsefhwood, Sir Kobert,
Dun&, Lady Emily, 11. xg8
nundas Lady Eleonora, 111. 2 9
D u n 4 Col. Walter, 1. 54
Dundas, Lieut.&. Francis, 11.
Dundas, Mr.. 11. m, 283
Dundas riots, 1791. 11. 343
Dundas Street, 11. 199; its Rsi.
dents, 11. ~gg, 111. 162
Dundee, Viscount, I. 62, 63,65,7t
Dundonald, Earl of, 1. 105,331.11.
Dundrennan Lord 11. 175
Dunglas and Greethaw, Baron, I1
279
Dunkeld, Bishops of, I. 39,253. I1
54, 251, 287, 111. 13% 307, 314
Dunfernline, Earl of, I. 3r6.11. z&
Ddermline, Lord, 111. p, 32
Dunfermline, H o w of the A&
210, 342
a579 27"
of, I. 212. 25
Dunlop, Dr. Jam, Fkquest to thq
University, 111. 26
Dunmore Earl of 11. 310
Dunn's dote1 II.'Ba 166, 161
Dupplin, Yi'ount, 1: 50
Durie. Lord, I. i68,242,III.31~,33!
Durie, AbborsofMelrose, I.a53,25.
hrie George, Abbot of Dunfermline'
I. 2x2
>yce,'the painter 11.87
Iysart, Lyonell L r l of,' 2I.ip;
Countess of, 11. 167
Jyvours stane, The, I. 152
E
Fade and Henderson. nurservmen. . I 111. 159
Eagle's Rock, Cramond, Ill. 315
Ear and Eye Dispenw-, I. a86
Earl Gre Street 11. 2x8
Earthen hound, i. gS, 102,106,116,
255, 11. 31. 80, 82. 9% 199. 4 3
bead of the, 11. 93-100; new
from Princes Street, Phtr r7
East and W a t Mayfield Houses,
111. 51
3x6, 349,111. .so
East Cross Causeway, 1. 384. 11.
Eat end of High Street, Nethei
Bow, and west end of Camngate,
T 1 ~ E
Eastbaik. Lord, 11. 10
Fst Gardens, 11.127
East Hermitage Place, Leith, 111
East India Club, 111. 125
E& London Street 11. 185
East Maitland Strc;t, 11. aoq
East Morningside H o w , 111. 47
East Pilton, 111. '309
East Princes Street Gardens. I1
166
100 a14
East b e e n Street Gardens, 11. XI;
East Register Street, 11. 176
East Richmond Street, 11. 337
East Warriston House, 111. IM
Easter, The district, 11. 221
Easter and Wester Pilton, 111. p
Easter Coates. Mansionof, 11. III
Easter Hill, 11. 199
Easterlings, 111.94
Easter Road, 11. 309, III.128,13i
Easter Wemy4 I. 3ag
Eastern and Wekern Duddiingston
133, 15% 158 160
11. 3r4
Echo Bank, 111. 5 4 57; old how
Echbing Rmz, The, 11. 313
Edgar, Rear-Admiral, 111. 142
Edgar's map of Edinbur h, 1. 3"
338, 34% 3% 3731 38551. 17, 81
Edgefield's (Lord), House, I. 241
Edge-tool maker, The first. 11. a6
Edinburgh Academy 111. 81
E$nburgh, Arms of ;he City of, 1
Edinburgh Castle, I. *I, z, 14-79
Stawand Camden'saccannts 15
the lecend of the White fiar,
21; Holyrood Abbey, oa; th
monks of the Castrum Puelb
rum, ib. ; capture of the Castle b
the English, ib.; it becomes
royal.residence,,a3; wars of th
Scottlsh succession, ib . "Wa
lace's Cradle," 24, *z;f the foi
tress dismantled, a+ ;again in th
hands of the En lah, 25' Bu
locks suacagem t r its reAveq
ib.;repairofthefort~,26;pr(
gress of the City, ib. : Henry I\
mvades the City, 27; the Englii
baffled, ib. : Al+y's pr0phe.q
ab.; lamre rding the buMm
of houses. ir; sumptuary law
28 ; murder of James I., 29 ; c1
ronation of James 11.. ib. ; Caul
intrigues, 29,30 ; Lord Chancellc
Crichton, 30; arrogance of t h
Earl of Douglas ib. : the I' blac
dinner " ib . th; Castle besiegec
31 . th; &;'fortified i6. ; +m<
IIi. and his haugdiy no ill@
32 ; plots of the Duke of Alban
and Earl of Mar, ib. ; mysterioi
death of Mar, ib.; apture an
escape of the Duke ofAlbany, 3 .E.; ciptitity of James HI., y
ichard of Gloumter at Edii
burgh,+.; the"C;ol$m Chartei
of the city, ib. ; the Blue RL)
ket," 34, * 36 ; accession of Jam
at 111. 5
2- 246,267. VI, 330,334
16
IV 35 : tournaments, ib. : " thc
se& sisters ot' Borthwick." v.5.'-
36.; the " Ylodden Wall," 38, +o ;
reign of Jam- V 38-42 ; Edmburgh
underthe f&tionsofnobles,
38-40 ; the castle attacked by
the Earl of Hertford, 43,111.16g;
death of Queen Mary of Guise,
I. 44, 45; accession of Mary
Stuart, 45h; birth of Jam- VI
46 *48: t esregeof1~73,47, I I f ?$ ; the a t y bombarded from the
astle, I. 47 ; Elkabeth'sspy, 48;
Sir W. Drury's dispositions for
the &Fe, 48,49 : execuaon of Sir
W: h.rkaldy, 50.: repairof the
ruins, ab. : execution of the Earl
of Morton, ib.; visit of Charles
I p, 51; procession to Holyr&,
Si : coronation of Charles
I., ib. : the struggle against episcopacy,
g1,52; siege of 1644 52 -
the spectre drummer 54; th;
castle baieged by CroLwell ib. ;
ten years' peace in Edinbkh
55 ; the Restoration, ib. ; th;
Argylcs, 56-58 ; the accession of
ames VII., 58 ; sentence of the
rl of Argyle, 58,59 ; h~ clever
59 ; the last sleep of Ar-
?e?.; hisdeath, ib. ; tortureof
the covenanters, 59,150; proclamation
of Williarn and Mary, pII;
the siege ,of 1689 6 internew
between the Duk;p?&rdon and
Viscount Dundee, ib. ; brilliant
defence of the &de, 63,64 ; Qpitulation
of the Duke of Gordm,
65 ; inner gateway of the Castle * 65 ; the spectre of Clawhaw:
66 ; torture of Neville Payne, id. ;
Jacobite plots, ib.: entombing of
thc regalia 66, 67; project for
surprismg ;he fortnss, SI ; right
of sanctuary abolished. ib. ; Lord
Drummonfla plot, 68 : Dome acv.
biteprixmen, 6g; "rebeldies"
70 ; iunes Macgregor, ib. ; de
at escape, 71 : tears as to the
destruction of the crown, sword,
and m p ~ e , ib.; crown-room
opened in 1794 and in 1817 id. ;
Mons Mag, 74 ; general d&p
tion of the Castle, 7 5 7 9
Edinburgh Castle and nty Ancient
and modern vieis of. 1. q. 17.
k
Cast / e vaults, 70 71 ; attempts
-
from various points, 11.193) 216,
111. 117
Edinburgh in 1745 1. 331-334;
Charles Stuart in \he mty, I. 323
Edinburgh Origin of the name, I.
12 ; the infant city, I. 26 ; first
enclosed by walls, 1. 31
Edinburgh and Glasgow Railway,
11. 19 113
Edinburgh and Leith Seamen's
Friendly Society, 111. q
Ediabzdrqh Aa'vmtkr, The, 1.318,
339, 11. 'VV 11% '7% 3a4 35'.
III.63r703 73 752 7% 85, 11% 123,
124l135.139.154,~34.~35.258,306
Edinburgh Assembly Rooms, 1.314,
inburgh Assoclation for Impmving
the Condition of the Poor, 11.
162
Edinburgh Arscdation of Science
and Arts, 11. 143
Edinburgh Bishop of 111.147
Edinburgh' Blind Asyhm, 111. a54
Edinburgh Bamic W e n , Leith
Walk 111. 98. its coratm ib.
Edinb&h &teryCom&y, 11.
"17
Edinburgh Chamber of Commerce
and Manufactures, I. 379, 111.
288
Edinburgh Che5 Club, 11.152
Edinburgh Club, The old, 111.
Ed:s7 * 3 4 3x7 ... plays 11. IDrawbridge'lhe Leith 111. I 8 Dreghorn, iord, '11. 156,166, 911. Dreghorn Castle . 111. 323, ...

Vol. 6  p. 375 (Rel. 0.98)

326 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Libertou.
extended from east to west over all the country.
This inequality in the surface .contributes much
to the ornament of the view, by the agreeable
relief which the eye ever meets with in the change
of objects ; while the universal declivity, which
prevails more or less in every field, is favourable to
the culture of the lands, by allowing a ready descent
to the water which falls from the heavens.” (Agricultural
Survey of Midlothian.)
Situated in a hollow of the landscape, on the
Colinton slope of the Pentlands, is Bonally, with
the Vale of the Leith, and enters the parish here,
on the west side by a lofty aqueduct bridge of eight
arches, and passes along it for two and a half miles.
Near Slateford is Graysmill, where Prince Charles
took up his headquarters in 1745, and met the
deputies sent there from the city to arrange about
its capitulation, and where ensued those deliberations
which Lochiel cut short by entering the High
Street at the head of go0 claymores.
Proceeding eastward, we enter the parish of
Liberton, one of the richest and most beautiful in
its ponds, 482 feet above the
tower, added to a smaller
house, and commanding a pass
among the hills, was finished
in 1845 by Lord Cockburn,
who resided there for many
years.
There are several copious
and excellent springs on the
lands of Swanston, Dreghorn,
and Comistun, from which,
prior to the establishment of
the Water Company in 1819,
to introduce the Cramley
water, the inhabitants of
Edinburgh chiefly procured
that necessary of life.
At Corniston are- the remains
of an extensive camp
ofpre-historic times. Adjacent
to it, at Fairmilehead, tradition
records that a great battle has
been fought ; two large cairns
were erected there, and when
these were removed to serve
for road metal, great quantities
of human bones were found
sea-level. A peel i all the fertile Lothians. Its surface is exquisitely
diversified by broad low ridges,
gently rising swells and intermediate
plains, nowhere obtaining
a sufficient elevation
to be called a hill, save in
the instances of Blackford and
the Braid range. “As to
relative position,” says a writer,
‘‘ the parish lies in the very
core of the rich hanging plain
or northerly exposed lands of
Midlothian, ahd commands
from its heights prospects the
most sumptuous of the urban
landscape and romantic hills
of the metropolis, the dark
farm and waving outline of
the Pentlands and their spurs,
the minutely-featured scenery
of the Lothians, the Firth of
Forth, the clear coast line, the
white-washed towns and distant
hills of Fife, and the bold
blue sky-line of mountain
The parish itself has a thoul€IE
BATTLE OR CAMUB STONE, COMISTON. ranges away in far perspective.
in and under them. Near \$here they stood there
still remains a relic of the fight, a great whinstone
block, about 20 feet high, known as the Kelstain,
or Battle Stone, and also as Cuvw Stage, from the
name of a Danish commander.
Corniston House, in this quarter, was built by Sir
James Forrest in 1815.
The Hunter’s Tryst, near this, is a well-known
and favourite resort of the citizens of Edinburgh in
summer expeditions, and was frequently the headquarters
of the Six Foot Club.
Slateford, a village of Colinton parish, is two
and a half miles from the west end of Princes
Street. It has. a ‘United Secession place of
worship, dating from 1784, and is noted as the
scene of the early pastoral labours of the Rev. Dr.
John Dick The Union Canal is carried across
.
sand attractions, and is dressed out in neatness
of enclosures, profusion of garden-grounds, opulence
of cultivation, elegance or tidiness of. mansion,
village, and cottage, and busy stir and enterprise,
which indicate full consciousness of the immediate
vicinity of the proudest metropolis in Europe.”
One of the highest ridges in the parish is crowned
by the church, which occupies the exact site
of a more ancient fane, of which we have the
first authentic notice in the King’s charter to the
monks of Holyrood, circa 1143-7, when he grants
them ‘‘ that chapel of Liberton, with two oxgates of
land, with all the tithes and rights, etc.,” which had
been made to it by Macbeth-not the usurper, as
Arnot erroneously supnoses, but the Macbeth, or
Macbether, Baron of Liberton, whose name occurs
as witness to several royal charters of David I. ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Libertou. extended from east to west over all the country. This inequality in the ...

Vol. 6  p. 326 (Rel. 0.97)

322 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. lcolinton.
the Belitice Puetaruni Scuiurum. He was a convert
to the Protestant religion, and the chief work of
his pen is his learned book on feudal law. It has
been well said that lie U kept himself apart from the
political intrigues of those distracting times, devoting
himself to his professional duties, and in his
hours of relaxation cultivating a taste for classical
literature.”
He was present at the entry of King James into
London, and at his coronation as King of England,
an event which he commemorated in a poem in
Latin hexameters. In 1604 he was one of the
commissioners appointed by the king to confer
with others on the part of England, concerning
a probable union between the two countries, a
favourite project with James, but somewhat Utopian
when broached at a time when men were living
who had fought on the field of Pinkie.
He wrote a treatise on the independent
sovereignty .of Scotland, which was published in
1675, long after his death, which occurred at Edinburgh
on the 26th of February, 1Go8. He married
Helen, daughter of Heriot of Trabrown, in East
Lothian, by whom he had seven children. His
eldest son, Sir Lewis Craig, born in 1569, became
a senator, as Lord Wrightislands
On the death of his lineal descendant in 1823,
Robert Craig of Riccarton (of whom mention was
made in our chapter on Princes Street in the
second volume of this work), James Gibson, W.S.
(afterwards Sir James Gibson-Craig of Riccarton
and Ingliston), assumed the name and arms of
Craig in virtue of a deed of entail made in 1818.
He was a descendant of the Gibsons of Durie, in
Fife.
His eldest son was the late well-known Sir
William Gibson-Craig, who was born and August,
1797, and, after receiving his education in Edinburgh,
was called as, an advocate to the Scottish
Bar in 1820. He was M.P. for Midlothian from
1837 to 1841, when he was returned for the city of
Edinburgh, which he continued to represent till
1852. He was a Lord of the Treasury from 1846
to 1852, and was appointed one of the Board
of Supervision for the Poor in Scotland. In 1854
he was appointed Lord Clerk Register of Her
Majesty’s Rolls and Registers in Scotland in 1862,
and Keeper of the Signet. He was a member of
the Privy Council in 1863, and died in 1878.
Riccarton House, a handsome modern villa of
considerable size, has now replaced the old
mansion of other times.
CHAPTER XXXVIII.
THE ENVIRONS OF EDINBURGH (cmtinzted).
Colinton-Ancient Name and Church-Redhall-The Family of Foulis-Dreghorn-The Pentlands-View from Torphin-Corniston-Slateford
-Graysmill-Liherton-The Mill at Nether Libertan-Liberton Tower-The Church-The Balm Well of St. Kathrrine-Grace Mount-
The Wauchopes of Niddrie-Niddrie House-St. Katherine’s-The Kaimes-Mr. Clement Little-Lady Little of Liberton.
THE picturesque little parish village of Colinton,
about a mile and a quarter from Kingsknowe
Station, on the Caledonian Railway, is romantically
situated in a deep and wooded dell, through which
the Water of Leith winds on its way to the Firth
of Forth, and around it are many beautiful walks
and bits of sweet sylvan scenery. The lands here
are in the highest state of cultivation, enclosed by
ancient hedgerows tufted with green coppice, and
even on the acclivities of the Pentland range, at
the height of 700 feet above the sea, have been
rendered most profitably arable.
In the wooded vale the Water of Leith turns
the wheels of innumerable quaint old water-mills,
and through the lesser dells, the Murray, the Braid,
and the Burdiehouse Burns, enrich the parish with
their streams.
Of old the parish was called Hailes, from the
plural, it is said, of a Celtic word, which signifies a
mound or hillock. A gentleman’s residence near
the site of the old church still retains the name,
which is also bestowed upon a well-known quarry
and two other places in the parish. The new
Statistical Account states that the name of Hailes
was that of the principal family in the parish, which
was so called in compliment to them’; but this
seems barely probable.
The little church-which dates from only 1771-
and its surrounding churchyard, are finely situated
on a sloping eminence at the bottom of a dell,
round which the river winds slowly by.
The ancient church of Hailes, or Colinton, was
granted to Dunfermline Abbey by Ethelred, son of
Malcolm Canmore and of St. Margaret, a gift confirmed
by a royal charter of David I., and by a Bull
of Pope Gregory in 1234, according to the abovequoted
authority ; but the parish figures so little in
history that we hear nothing of it again till 1650, ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. lcolinton. the Belitice Puetaruni Scuiurum. He was a convert to the Protestant ...

Vol. 6  p. 322 (Rel. 0.96)

166 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [St. Andrew squan. I
CHAPTER XXII.
ST. ANDREW SQUARE.
St Andrew Square-List of Early Residents-Count Bomwlaski-Miss Gordon or Cluny-Scottish Widows’ Fund-Dr. A. K. Johnston-
Scottish Provident Institution-House in which Lord Brougham was Born-Scottish Equitable Society-Chancrir of Amisfield-Douglas‘s
Hotel-Sir Philip Ainslic-British Linen Company-National Bank-Royal Bank-The Melvillc and Hopctoun Monuments-Ambrosc’r
Tavern.
BEFORE its conversion iiito a place for public
offices, St. Andrew Square was the residence of
many families of the first rank and position. It
measures 510 feet by 520. Arnot speaks of it as
“the finest square we ever saw. Its dimensions,
indeed, are, small when compared with those in
London, but the houses are much of a size. They
are of a uniform height, and are all built of freestone”
The entire square, though most of the original
houses still exist, has undergone such changes that,
says Chambers, . “ the time is not far distant when
the whole of this district will meet with a fate
similar to that which we have to record respecting
the Cowgate and Canongate, and when the idea of
noblemen inhabiting St. Andrew Square will seem,
to modem conceptions, as strange as that of their
living in the,Mint Close.”
The following is a list of the first denizens of
the square, between its completion in 1778 and
1784.:-
I. Major-General Stewart.
2. The Earl of Aboyne. He died here in his sixty-eighth
year, in 1794. He was the eldest son of John, third Earl of
Aboyne, by Grace, daughter of Lockhart of Carnwath,
afterwards Countess of Murray.
3. Lord Ankerville (David Ross).
5. John, Viscount Arbuthnott, who died 1791.
6. Dr. Colin Drummond.
7. David Hume, afterwards Lord Dreghorn.
8. John Campbell of Errol. (The Earls of Em1 have
ceased since the middle of the seventeenth century to possess
any property in the part from whence they took their
ancient title.)
11. Mrs Campbell of Balmore.
13. Robert Boswell, W.S.
15. Mrs. Cullen of Parkhead.
16. Mrs. Scott of Horslie Hill.
18. Alexander Menzies, Clerk of Session.
19. Lady Betty Cunningham.
20. Mrs Boswell of Auchinleck
Boswell,” R. Chambers, 1824).
22. Jams Farquhar Gordon, Esq.
23. Mrs. Smith of Methven.
24 Sir John Whiteford. (25 in “ Williamson’s Directory.”)
25. William Fergusson pf Raith.
26. Gilbert Meason, Esq., and the Rev. Dr. Hunter.
27. Alexander Boswell, Esq.(aftemards Lord Auchinleck),
and Eneis Morrison, Esq.
28. Lord Methven
30. Hon. Mrs. Hope.
32. Patrick, Earl of Dumfries, who died in 1803.
(mother of “Corsica
33. Sir John Colquhoun.
34. George, Earl of Dalhousie, Lord High Commissioner,
35. Hon. Mrs. Cordon.
38. Mrs. Campbell of Saddel, Cilbert Kerr of Stodrig,
and Sir William Ramsay, Bart., of Banff House, who died
in 1807.
By 1784, when Peter Williamson published his
tiny “ Directory,” many changes had taken place
among the occupants of the square. The Countess
of Errol and Lord Auchinleck were residents, and
Thomas, Earl of Selkirk, had a house there before
he went to America, to form that settlement in the
Gulf of St. Lawrence which involved him in so much
trouble, expense, and disappointment. No. I was
occupied by the Countess of Leven ; the Earl of
Northesk, KC.B., who distinguished himself afterwards
as third in command at Trafalgar, occupied
No. 2, now an hotel; and Lord Arbuthnott had
been suceeeded in the occupancy of No. 5 by
Patrick, Lord Elibank, who married the widow of
Lord North and Grey.
By 1788 an hotel had been started in the
square by a man named Dun. It was there that
the celebrated Polish dwarf, Joseph Borowlaski,
occasionally exhibited himself. In his memoirs,
written by himself, he tells that he was one of a
family of five sons and one daughter, “,and by one
of those freaks of nature which it is impossible to
account for, or perhaps to find another instance of
in the annals of the human species, three of these
children were above the middle stature, whilst the
two others, like myself, reached only that of children
at the age of four or five years.”
Notwithstanding this pigmy stature, the count,
by his narrative, would seem to have married, performed
many wonderful voyages and travels, and
been involved in many romantic adventures. At
thirty years of age his stature was three feet three
inches. Being recommended by Sir Robert Murray
Keith, then Eritish Ambassador at Vienna, to visit
the shores of Britain, after being presented, with
his family, to- royalty in London, he duly came to
Edinburgh, where, according to Kay’s Editor, ‘‘ he
was taken notice of by several gentlemen, among
others by Mr. Fergusson, who generously endeavoured
by their attentions to sweeten the bitter
cup of life to the unfortunate gentleman.”
1777-82 ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [St. Andrew squan. I CHAPTER XXII. ST. ANDREW SQUARE. St Andrew Square-List of Early ...

Vol. 3  p. 166 (Rel. 0.94)

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS .
--c-
THE OLD CHURCH OF ST . CUTHBERT’S AND THE NORTH LOCH (after CZffSh of Eldin).-Rrontisrp;eCr.
Keys of the City of Edinburgh . . . . .
Paul’s Work . . . . . . . .
Illustrated Heading ; . . . . . .
The .. Maiden . . . . . . . . .
The “White Horse” Inn . . . . .
Fac-simile of a View of Edpburgh in 1 5 4 . .
Common SealofEdinburgh . . . . .
Counter Seal of the Above . . . . .
John Kay (1786) . . . . . . .
Urn found at the Dean . . . . . .
The Roman Road. near Portobello-The. “ Fishwives’
Causeway . . . . . . . . .
Arthur’s Seat. from St . Leonards
The Arms of the City of Edinburgh . . . . .
Fac-simile of a View of the Old Town. from a housetop
at theTronChurch . . . . .
Bird’s-eye View of the Castle and City of Edinburgh
Dungeons in the Castle. below Queen Mary’s Room .
. . . .
St . Margaret’s Chapel. Edinburgh Castle . . .
Chancel Arch of S t. Margaret’s Chapel
“Wallace’s Cradle. .. Edinburgh Castle
Edinburgh Castle. as it was before 1573
. . .
. . . . . .
Ruins of the Well-house Tower . . . .
The Royal Lodging or Palace. from the Grand Parade
Prospect of Edinburgh. from the North. 1693 (ajm
EdinburghCastle in 1647 . . . . . .
The Blue Blanket. or Standard of the Incorporated
Tradesof Edinburgh . . . . . .
. James Hamilton. Earl of Arran ; John Erskine. Earl of
Mar; Archibald, Earl ofAngus; The Regent Moray
Plan of Edinburgh. showing the Flodden Wall . .
Edinburgh. from the North and South . . .
John Duke of Albany. and Queen Margaret . .
Edinburgh Castle. from the South-west . . .
Stone which formerly stood over the Barrier-gateway
of Edinburgh Castle . . . . . .
Room in Edinburgh Castle in which James VI . was born
Ancient Postern and Turret near the Queen’s Post .
EntaSlature above the Gateway. Edinburgh Castle .
Reduced Fac-simile of a Plan of the Siege of Edinburgh
Castle in 1573 . . . . . . .
Sleaer) . . . . . Tufacepagt?
Cipher of Lord Darnley and Queen Mary . . .
The Regent Morton . . . . . . .
PAGl
U
xi
I
4
5
2
E
5
Ia
I2
13
I6
16
I7
2a
24
25
28
29
32
33
33
21
36
37
40
41
44
4s
46
46
48
49
51
52
53
PAGE
Covenanter’s Flag . . . . . . . 54
South Side of Edinburgh Castle . . . . 56
Edinburgh from the South. in 1650 . . . . 57
Mons Meg. Edinburgh Castle . . . . . 60
Order of Cavalcade at the Openlng of the First Parliamentof
JamesVII . . . . . . 61
Thumbikin . . . . . . . . 62
Fa-simile of the Medal of the Edinburgh Revolution 8
Club . . . . . . . . . . 63
Edinburgh from Mons Meg Battery . To fut pagc 65
Inner Gateway of the Castle . . . . . 65
Royal Lodging and Half-Moon Battxy . . . 68
The Crown.room. Edinburgh Castle . . . . 69
TheRegaliaof Scotland . . . . . . 72
Plan of the City and Castle of Edinburgh in I742 . 73
Chest in which the Regalia were found . . . 76
Edinburgh. from the King’s Bastion. 182s . . . 77
Edinburgh Castle. from the King’s Mews, 1825 . . 80
Ground Plan of Edinhurgh Castle in the present day . 81
Memorial Cross to the 78th Highlanders. Esplanade.
Prospect of Edinburgh Castle from the East in 1779 .
Edinburgh Castle. from Kirkbraehead . . * 64
Runic Cross. Castle Bank . . . . . . 79
EdinburghCastle . . . . . . . 84
The Castle Hill. 1S45 . . . . . . 58
Allan Ramsay’s House . . . . . . Sg
85
Cannon Ball in Wall of House in Castle Hill . . 90
rhomas Guthrie. D.D. . . . . . . gz
Duke of Gordon’s House. Blair’s Close. Castle Hill . 93
Assembly Hall . . . . . . . . 96
Edinburgh Old Town. from Salisbury Crags To facepage 97
TheOratoryof Maryof Guise . . . . . 97
3ak Door. from the Guise Palace . . . . 98
Lord Semple’s House. Castle Hill . . . . 100
Mary of Guise . . . . . . . . 101
The Lawnmarket. from St . Giles’s. 1825 . . . 105
Lady Stair’s Close . . . . . . . 107
31d Timber-fronted House. Lawnmarket . . . 108
3ladstone’s Land . . . . . . . 109
Plan of Edinburgh. from the Castle to St . Giles’s . 112
Bailie Macmorran’s House . . . . . . 113
Room in Bailie Macmorran’s House . . . . 114
Lantern and Keys of Deacon Brodie . . . . 115
The Lawnmarket. from the SiteoftheWeigh.house. 1825 104 ... OF ILLUSTRATIONS . --c- THE OLD CHURCH OF ST . CUTHBERT’S AND THE NORTH LOCH (after CZffSh of ...

Vol. 2  p. 392 (Rel. 0.73)

CRAIGMILLAR CASTLE ... ...

Vol. 5  p. iv (Rel. 0.7)

MERCHISTON CASTLE. ... ...

Vol. 5  p. v (Rel. 0.7)

88 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. tThe Castle Hill.
the steep flight of steps that descend to Johnston
Terrace, we find a date 1630, with the initials
A. M.-M. N., and in the wall below there still
remains a cannon ball, fired from the half-moon
3 ~ - ~ * - .... ,-. ,~,_., -.,- :.. ~- - - , ~ ~ ~ .,- .,~-- %..:,>
street some are unchanged in external aspect since
the days of the Stuarts.
On the pediment of a dormer window of the
house that nom forms the south-west angle of the
street, directly facing the Castle, and overlooking
of Huntly in 1684; but the edifice in question
evidently belongs to an anterior age; and the old
tradition was proved to be correct, when in a disposition
(now in possession of the City Improve- __-- L n _-_-_ :--:--\ =.. e:- -_=--& TI-:-> L_ 1.1-
I
arch, within which, is a large coronet, supported by
two deerhounds, well known {eatures in the Gordon
arms. Local tradition universally affirms this
mansion to have been the residence of the dukes
of that title, which was bestowed on the house
THE CASTLE HILL, 1845.
aunng me DiocKaae in 1745. I nrougn rnis DWUing
there is a narrow alley named Blair’s Close-so
narrow indeed, that amid the brightest sunshine
there is never in it more than twilight-giving access
to an open court, at the first angle of which is a
handsome Gothic doorway, surmounted by an ogee
iiiriii LuiiitIiissiunl uy air M J U ~ K ~ Dam tu nis
son William, dated 1694, he describes it as “all
and hail, that my lodging in the Castle lHill of
Edinburgh, formerly possessed by the Duchess of
Gordon.”
The latter was Lady Elizabeth Howard, daugh ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. tThe Castle Hill. the steep flight of steps that descend to Johnston Terrace, we find a ...

Vol. 1  p. 88 (Rel. 0.7)

1745.1 GENERAL- PRESTON, 329
the operations subsequent to his council of war,
though the inscription on his tomb in Westminster
CHARLES EDWARD IN HIS YOUTH,
(Frm t@ Portrait 6y Torque.)
when " besieged by the rebels."
The officers of state had now fled from Edinburgh
to defend which he instantly adopted the most
vigorous measures. He wrote to the Secretary of
State, acquainting him that if not soon relieved he
would be compelled to surrender, as his stock of
provisions was so small. This letter fell into the
hands of the Prince, by whom the Castle was
never formally summoned. Preston had now been
seventy years in the service. He was in his eighty,
seventh year, and was so enfeebled by time and
wounds as to be unable to walk j yet so constant
was his vigilance, that every two hours he was
wheeled round the posts to see that his sentinels
were on the alert, and whenever a Highlander could
be seen, a gun loaded with grape was fired at him
CHAPTER XLI.
EDINBURGH IN 1745 (concluded).
General] Guest's '' Bravery "-Popularity of the Prince-Castle Blockaded-It Fires on the City-kith Bombarded-End of the Blockade-
Departure of the Highland Army for England-Prisoners in the Castle-Macdopald of Teindreich-Duke ofCurnberlan'd in Edinburgh-
Burning of the Standards. ... GENERAL- PRESTON, 329 the operations subsequent to his council of war, though the inscription on his tomb ...

Vol. 2  p. 329 (Rel. 0.69)

EDINBURGH CASTLE FROM GREYFRIARS CHURCHYARD. ... CASTLE FROM GREYFRIARS ...

Vol. 6  p. 189 (Rel. 0.69)

PROSPECT OF EDINBURGH CASTLE FROM THE EAST IN 1779. ... OF EDINBURGH CASTLE FROM THE EAST IN ...

Vol. 1  p. 85 (Rel. 0.68)

I12 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Bradie's Close.
Cullen, a single-minded and upright man, the
transition is great indeed to the occupant who
gave his name to the next close-a name it still
Masons of Edinburgh, was the son of Convener
Francis Brodie, who had an extensive business as
a cabinet maker in the Lawnmarket; and in 1781
PLAN OF EDINBURGH, FROM THE CASTLE TO ST. GILES'S. (From Gwdm of Rothiemay'.o Maj.)
g, The High Street from the Castle ; 10, The Weighhouse : 15, Horse Market Street : 16, Straight (or West) Bow ; Currer's Close;
35, Liberton's Wynd ; 36, Foster's Wynd ; Z, The Kirk in the Castle Hill.
retains-a notorious character, who had a kind of
dual existence, for he stood high .in repute as a
pious, wealthy, and substantial citizen, until the
daring robbery of the Excise Office in 1788 brought
to light a longcontinued system of secret housebreaking
and of suspected murder, unsurpassed in
the annals of cunning and audacity.
the former was elected a Deacon Councillor of the
city. He had unfortunately imbibed a taste for
gambling, and became expert in making that taste
a source of revenue; thus he did not scruple to
have recourse to loaded dice. It became a ruling
passion with him, and he was in the habit of resorting
almost nightly to a low gambling club, kept ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Bradie's Close. Cullen, a single-minded and upright man, the transition is great ...

Vol. 1  p. 112 (Rel. 0.67)

GROUND PLAN OF EDINBURGH CASTLE IN THE PRESENT DAY. ... PLAN OF EDINBURGH CASTLE IN THE PRESENT ...

Vol. 1  p. 81 (Rel. 0.67)

DUNGEONS IN THE CASTLE BELOW QUEEN MARY’S ROOM.
CHL4PTER 111.
CASTLE OF EDINBURGH-(cantinued.~~e~.)
The Legend of the White Hart-Holyrood Abbey founded-The Monks of the Castrum Puellarum-David 1,’s numerous Endowments-His
Death-Fergus, Lord of Gallaway. dies there-William the Lion-Castle Garrisoiied by the English for Twelve Years-The Castle a Royal
Residence-The War of the Scottish Succession-The Castle in the hands of Edward I.-Frank’s Escalade-The Fortress Dismantled
-Again in the hands of the English-Bullocks Stratagem for its Resapture-David‘s Tower.
“THE well-known legend of the White Hart,’’
says Daniel Wilson, “ most probably had its origin
in some real occurrence, magnified by the superstition
of a rude and illiterate age. More recent observations
at least suffice to show that it existed
at a much earlier date than Lord Hailes referred
it to.”
It is recorded that on Rood-day, the 14th of
September, in the harvest of 1128, the weather
being fine and beautiful, King David and his
courtiers, after mass, left the Castle by that gate
before which he was wont to dispense justice to his
people, and issued forth to the chase in the wild
country that lay around-for then over miles of the
land now covered by the new and much of the
old city, for ages into times unknown, the oak-trees
of the primeval forest of Drumsheugh had shaken
down their leaves and acorns upon the wild and
now extinct animals of the chase. And here it
may be mentioned that boars’ tusks of most enormous
size were found in 1846 in the bank to the
south of the half-moon battery, together with an
iron axe, the skull and bones of a man.
On this Rood-day we are told that the king
issued from the Castle contrary to the advice of
his confessor, Alfwin, an Augustinian monk of great
sanctity and learning, who reminded him that it
was the feast of the’ Exaltation of the Cross, and
should be passed in devotion, not in hunting; but
of this advice the king took no heed.
Amid the dense forest and in the ardour of the
chase he became separated from his train, in “ the
vail that lyis to the eist fra the said castell,” and
found himself at the foot of the stupendous crags,
where, “under the shade of a leafy tree,” he was
almost immediately assailed by a white stag of
gigantic size, which had been maddened by the
pursuit, “noys and dyn of bugillis,” and which, ... IN THE CASTLE BELOW QUEEN MARY’S ROOM. CHL4PTER 111. CASTLE OF EDINBURGH-(cantinued.~~e~.) The Legend ...

Vol. 1  p. 21 (Rel. 0.66)

throne would ensure their total destruction, yet
he escaped them. Aware that a day of trial was
coming, and terrified by the unknown fate of Mar,
some of his numerous friends contrived to acquaint
him that in the Roads of Leith there lay a small
vessel laden with Gascon wine, by which he might
and also a strong rope, with a waxen roll
enclosing an unsigned letter, urging, "that he
should lose no time in escaping, as the king's
minions had resolved that he should die ere the
' morrow's sun set," but that the boats of the French
vessel would await him at the harbour of Leith.
EDINBURGH CASTLE IN 1647. (From Gmda o/ Rofhiemuys Mu#.)
U, the Castle; 6, the Castle ChapeL
escape if he made an effort. It is supposed that
he was confined in David's Tower, for we are told
it was one that arose from the northern verge of
the rock, where the height of the precipice seemed
to preclude the possibility of escape. He had
but one attendant (styled his chalmerchield) left
to wait upon him, and to this follower he revealed
his intention. From the vessel there came to
him two small runlets said to contain wine, and
they were camed to his apartment unexamined,
The duke found that they contained malvoisie,
U b,.
To lull suspicion, Albany invited the captain of
the guard and three of his principal soldiers to sup
with him, and all these he succeeded in partially
intoxicating. They sat drinking and gaming until
the hour grew late ; and then the royal duke found
that the moment of fate had come !
Snatching the captain's long dagger from his
baldrick, Albany buried it again and again in his
glittering breast ; he despatched the intoxicated
soldiers in the same fashion, and, in token of his
hostility, with the assistance of his chalmer-chield
castle rock
castles
: ... would ensure their total destruction, yet he escaped them. Aware that a day of trial was coming, and ...

Vol. 1  p. 33 (Rel. 0.66)

THE CASTLE, RAMSAY GARDENS, BANK OF SCOTLAND, AND EARTHEN MOUND, FROM PRINCES STREET. ... CASTLE, RAMSAY GARDENS, BANK OF SCOTLAND, AND EARTHEN MOUND, FROM PRINCES ...

Vol. 3  p. iii (Rel. 0.65)

2 48 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. LCowgate.
the historian) became senior minister of the Cowgate
chapel.
One of his immediate predecessors, the Rev.
Mr. Fitzsimmons, an Englishman, became seriously
embroiled with the authorities, and was arraigned
Two of these four, Vanvelde and Jaffie, had
escaped from the Castle by sawing through their
window bars with a sword-blade furnished to them
by John Armour, a clerk in the city. The other
two were on parole. The Hon. Henry Erslcine
THE MEAL MARKET, COWGATE.
before the High Court of Justiciary in July, 1790,
on the charge of aiding the escape of Jean Bap
tiste Vanvelde, Jean Jacques Jaffie, Re'ne' Griffon,
and Hypolite Depondt, French prisoners, from the
Castle of Edinburgh, by concealing them in his
house, and taking them in the Newhaven fishing
boat of Neil Drysdale to the Isle of Inchkeith,
where they remained hidden till taken to a cartel
ship, commanded by Captain Robertson, in Leith
Roads.
defended Mr. Fitzsimmons, who was sentenced to
three months' imprisonment in the Tolbooth. In
the following September 600 French prisoners (including
the crew of the Vicforicux) were marched
from the Castle, under a guard of the North York
Militia, to Leith, where they embarked for England
in care of 150 bayonets of the 7rst Highlanders,
After the erection of St. Paul's Church, in York
Place, the Cowgate Chapel was purchased by the ... 48 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. LCowgate. the historian) became senior minister of the Cowgate chapel. One of his ...

Vol. 4  p. 248 (Rel. 0.65)

[-wade. THE MELVILLES..
/
LASSWADE CnuKCH, 1773. (Afdw an Etching by Yohn Clerk of E(din.1
CHAPTER XLIII.
THE ENVIRONS OF EDINBURGH-(ccmclz&d).
Melville Castle and the Melvilles-The Viscounts Melvil1::-Sheriffnall-Newton-Monkton-Stonyhill-" The Wicked Colonel Charteris "-
New Hailes-The Stair Obelisk-Lord Hailes-His Death.
MELVILLE CASTLE stands on the left bank of the
North Esk, about five furlongs eastward of Lasswade,
and was built by the first Viscount Melville,
replacing a fortress of almost unknown antiquity,
about the end of the last century. It is a splendid
mansion, with circular towers, exhibiting much
architectural elegance, and surrounded by a finelywooded
park, which excited the admiration of
George IV.
Unauthenticated tradition states that the ancient
castle of Melville was a residence of David Rizzio,
and as such, was, of course, visited occasionally by
Queen Mary; but it had an antiquity much more
remote.
It is alleged that the first Melville ever known
'in Scotland was a Hungarian of that name, who
accompanied Queen 'Margaret to Scotland, where
he obtained from Malcolm 111. a grant of land
in hiidlothian, and where he settled, gave his surname
to his castle, and became progenitor of all
the Melvilles in Scotland. Such is the story told
by Sir Robert Douglas, on the authority of Leslie,
143
Mackenzie, Martin, and Fordun ; but it is much
more probable that the family is of French origin.
Be all that as it may, the family began to be
prominent in Scotland soon after the reign of
Malcolm 111.
Galfrid de Melville of Meldle Castle, in
Lothian, witnessed many charters of Malcolm IV.,
bestowing pious donations on the abbeys of Holyrood,
Newbattle, and Dunfermline, before 1165, in
which year that monarch died.
He also appears (1153-1165) as Vicecomes de
CasieZZo Pzd'Eamm, in the register of St. Marie
of Newbattle. He witnessed two charters of
William the Lion to the abbey of Cambuskenneth,
and made a gift of the parish church of
Melville (which, probably, he built) to the monastery
of Dunfermline, in presence of Hugh, Bishop
of St. Andrews, previously chaplain to King
William, and who died in 1187.
Galfrid of Melville left four sons-Sir Gregory,
his successor, Philip, Walter, and Waren. Of the
last nothing is known, but the other three founded ... THE MELVILLES.. / LASSWADE CnuKCH, 1773. (Afdw an Etching by Yohn Clerk of E(din.1 CHAPTER XLIII. THE ...

Vol. 6  p. 361 (Rel. 0.61)

Granton 1 LATDTNG OF THE ENGLISH ARMY, 309
I. CAROLINE PARK; a, RUINS OF GRANTON CASTLE ; 3, EAST PILTON. ... 1 LATDTNG OF THE ENGLISH ARMY, 309 I. CAROLINE PARK; a, RUINS OF GRANTON CASTLE ; 3, EAST ...

Vol. 6  p. 309 (Rel. 0.6)

60 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Craigmillar.
CRAIGMILLAR CASTLE.
I, The Hall ; 2, The Keep ; 3. Queen Mary's Tree ; 4, South-west Tower ; 5, The Chapel ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Craigmillar. CRAIGMILLAR CASTLE. I, The Hall ; 2, The Keep ; 3. Queen Mary's Tree ; 4, ...

Vol. 5  p. 60 (Rel. 0.6)

Leaving his queen in the then solitary Castle,
Grime (who, according to Buchanan, began his
reign in the year 996) often pursued the pleasures
of the chase among the wilds of Polmood, in the
probably a remnant of Edwin's departed power,
and from this period begins the authentic history
of Edinburgh and its castle, as from that
time it continued to be almost permanently the
Bertha, her aged father, and infant son, and, burying
them in one grave, heaped above it a rough
tumulus, which still marks the spot.
Full of remorse and fear, the queen died before
the return of Grime, who, after defeating the
Danes, and destroying their galleys, hastened to
this invests the solemn event with a peculiar charm.
The grand-niece of Edward the Confessor, she
had fled from her own country on the usurpation of
Harold, but was wrecked on the Forth, at the place
still called Queensferry. She and her retinue
were hospitably entertained by Malcolm III., who
successor, was deserted in battle by his warriors,
taken captive, and, after having his eyes put out,
died in grief and misery in the eighth year of his
reign.
He was succeeded, in 1004, by Maicolm II.,
who had Lothian formally ceded to him by Eadulf-
Cudel, Earl of Northumberland, who had pre-
Viously exercised some right of vassalage over it,
wife, of Malcolm, in the lines spoken hy Macduff,
Macbeth, Act iv., scene 3 :-
" The queen that bore thee,
Oftener upon her knees than on her feet,
Died every day she lived."
In 1091 William Rufus made war on Scotland,
and, taking the castle of Alnwick by surprise,
wantonly put its garrison to the sword. Malcolm.
coat of arms ... his queen in the then solitary Castle, Grime (who, according to Buchanan, began his reign in the year ...

Vol. 1  p. 16 (Rel. 0.59)

CONTENTS.
PAGE
INTROEUCTION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . J
CHAPTER I.
P R E H I S T O R I C EDINBURGH.
The Site before the Houses-Traces of Early Inhabitants-The Caledonian Tribes-Agricola's Invasion-Subjection of the Scottish Lowlands
-The Rorrao Way-Edinburgh never occupied permanently-Various Roman Remains : Urns, Coins, Busts ; Swords, Spears, ahd
other Weapons-Ancient Coffins-The Camus, or Cath-st,neOrigin of the name " Edinburgh"-Dinas-Eiddyn-The Battle of Catraeth 9
CHAPTER 11.
THE CASTLE OF EDINBURGH.
Of its Origin and remoter History-The Legends concerning it-Ebranke-St. Monena-Def& of the Sawons by King Bridei-King
Edwin-King Grime-The Story of Grime and Bertha of Badlieu-The Starting paint of authentic Edinburgh History-Sr Margaret
-Het Piety and amiable Disposition-Her Chapel-Her Death-Restoration of her Oratory-Her Burial-Donald Bane-King
David 1.-The Royal Gardens, afterwards the Nonh Loch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . I4
CHAPTER 111.
CASTLE OF EDINBURGH (continued).
The Legend of the White Hart-Holyrocd Abbey founded--The Monks of the Castrum Puellarum-David I.% numerous Endowments-His
Death-Fergus. Lord of Galloway, dies there-William the Lion-Castle Garrisoned by the English for Twelve Yean-The Castle a
Royal Residence-The War of the Scottish Succession-The ( h t l e in the hands of Edward 1.-Frank's Escalade-The Lbrtres
Dismantled-Again in the hands of the English-Bullock's Stratagem for its Re-caprurr-David's Tower . . . . . . 21
CHAPTER IV.
CASTLE OF EDINBURGH (confinucd).
Progress of the City-Ambassidor of Charles VI.-Edinburgh burned-Henry IV, baffled-Albmy's Prophecy-Laws lrgvdiog the Building
- of Houses-Sumptuary Laws, 1457-Murder of James I.-Coronationof JarncsI1.-Court Intrigues-Lard Chancellor C r i c h t o n - ~ g ~ c e
of the Earl of Douglas-Faction WaR--l'he Castle Resieged--"The Black Dinner"-Edmburgh Walled-Its Strength -Bale-fires . 26
CHAPTER V.
EDINBURGH CASTLE (continued).
James 111. and his haughty Nobilib-Plots of the Duke of Albany and Earl of Mar-Mysterious Death of Mar-Capture and Escape of the
Duke of Altuny-Captivity of James 111.-Richard of Gloucester at Edinburgh-The "Golden Charter" of the City-"The Blue
Blanket"-Accession of James 1V.-Tournamen%" The Seven Sisters of Bothwick "-The " Fldden Wall"-The Reign of Jarnes V.
-" Cleahse the Causeway !"-Edinburgh under the Factions of Nobles-Hertford Attacks the CastltDeath of Mary of Guise-
Queen Mary's Apartments in the CaStle-BLth of James VI. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32
CHAPTER VI.
EDINBURGH CASTLE (continued).
The Siege of r573-The City Bombarded from the Castle-Elizabeth's Spy-D~ry's Dispositions for the Siege-Execution of Kirkddy-
Repar of the Ruins-Execution of Mortan-Visit of Charles 1.-Procession to Holymod-Comnation of Charles 1.-The Struggle
against Epiico-Siege of 1640-The Spectre Drummn-Besieged by Cmmwell-Under the Protector-The Restantion-The
Argyles-The Accession of James VI1.-Sentence of the Earl of Argyle-His. clever Escape-Imprisoned lour yms later-The Last
Sleep of ArgylcHis Death-Tolture of Covenaoters-Proclamation of W d l i and Maq-The Siege of 16@-Intewiew between
Gordon and Dundee-The Cas le invested-Rdiant Defeuce-Capitulation of the Duke of Cordon-The Spectre of Claverhouse . 47 ... . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . J CHAPTER I. P R E H I S T O R ...

Vol. 2  p. 385 (Rel. 0.58)

founder to his new monastery were the churches
of St. Cuthbert. and of the Castle, among which
one plot of land belonging to the former is marked
by ‘‘ the fountain which rises near the king’s garden,
on the road leading to 3t. Cuthbert‘s church,” i.e.,
the fountain in the Well-house Tower.
This valley-the future North Loch-was then
Castle, where, in the twenty-first year of his reign,
he granted a charter to the Abbey of Kelso, the
witnesses to which, apud Castrum PueZZarum, were
John, Bishop of Glasgow ; Prince Henry, his son ;
William, his nephew ; Edward, the Chancellor ;
‘‘ BarthoZomeo $Zio Cornitis, et WiZZieZnza frateer
i u s ; Jordan0 Hayrum;” Hugo de Morville, thc
ST. MARGARET’S CHAPEL, EDINBURGH CASTLE,
the garden, which Malcolm, the son of Pagan, culjivated
for David II., and where tournaments were
held, 44 while deep pools and wide morasses, tangled
wood and wild animals, made the rude diverging
pathways to the east and westward extremely dangerous
for long after, though lights were burned at
the Hermitage of St. Anthony on the Crag and
the spire of St. John of Corstorphin, to guide the
unfortunate wight who was foolhardy enough to
travel after nightfall.”
In 1144 we find (King David resident in the
constable ; Odenell de Umphraville ; Robert Bruce ;
William of Somerville; David de Oliphant; and
William of Lindsay.
The charter of foundation to the abbey of
Holyrood-which will be referred to more fully in
its place-besides conferring valuable revenues,
derivable from the general resources of the city,
gave the monks a right to dues to nearly the same
amount from the royal revenues of the port of
Perth, which was the more ancient capital of
Scotland. ... to his new monastery were the churches of St. Cuthbert. and of the Castle, among which one plot of land ...

Vol. 1  p. 20 (Rel. 0.58)

The Castle Hill.
solid, and her camage winning and affable to her
inferiors.” One of the most ardent of her suitors,
on the death of ‘Glammis, was a man named
William Lyon, who, on her preferring Campbell of
Skipness, vowed by a terrible oath to dedicate his
life to revenge. He thus accused Lady Jane and
the three others named, and though their friends
were inclined to scoff at the idea of treason, the
artful addition of “sorcery” was suited to the
growing superstition of the age, and steeled against
them the hearts of many.
Examined on the rack, before the newly-constiat
that time. She was of ordinary stature, but her
mien wa6 majestic; her eyes full, her face oval,
her complexion delicate and extremely fair ; heaven
designed that her mind should want none of those
perfections a mortal creature can be capable of;
her modesty was admirable, her courage above what
could be expected from her sex, her jud,ment
Mercy was implored in vain, and on the 17th of
July-three days after the execution of the Master
of Forbes-the beautiful and unfortunate Lady
Jane was led from the Castle gates and chained to
a stake. “Barrels tarred, and faggots oiled, were
piled around her, and she was burned to ashes‘
within view of her son and husband, who beheld
the terrible scene from the tower that overlooked
it.”
On the following night Campbell, frenzied by
grief and despair, attempted to escape, but fell over
the rocks, and was found next morning dashed out
tuted Court of Justiciary, extremity of agony compelled
them to assent to whatever was asked, and
they were thus condemned by their own lips,
Lady Jane was sentenced to perish at the stake on
the Castle HilL Her son, her husband, and the
old friar were all replaced in David’s Tower, where
the first remained a prisoner till 1542. ... Castle Hill. solid, and her camage winning and affable to her inferiors.” One of the most ardent of her ...

Vol. 1  p. 84 (Rel. 0.56)

Cnigmillar.] CRAIGMILLAR CASTLE. 61
when descending Craigmillar Hill, a queen’s soldier,
who had a loose match in his hand, exploded
the powder-barrels, and mortally injured Captain
Melville, the kinsman of Sir William Kirkaldy.
The latter interred him with military honours in a
vault of Edinburgh Castle, where, doubtless, his remains
still rest
In 1589 there was granted a charter under the
great seal to John Ross of the lands of Limpitstoun,
which was witnessed in Craigmillar by the Arch-
%ishop of St. Andrews, John Lord Hamilton, the
Commendator of Arbroath, Maitland of Thirlstane,
Walter, Prior of Blantyre, and others.
Calderwood relates, that in January, 1590, when
Jaines VI. was sitting in the Tolbooth, hearing
to the gibbet by forty and fifty at a time. in the
sight of Edinburgh and Leith.
In 1573 the Loyalists, says Crawford of Drumsoy,
sent a strong body of horse and foot, in hope
to capture the Regent Morton at Dalkeith in the
aight; but found him ready to receive them on
Sheriff-hall Muir, from whence he drove them in as
far as the Burghmuir, and only lost the Laird of
Kirkmichael and some fifty men. Few were killed,
recent rains having wetted the gun-matches ; but
its ofice houses and grass,” it was advertised to be
let in the Edinburgh Cowant for 11th March, 1761.
In that year Sir Alexander Gilmour of Craigmillar
was elected M.P. for the county.
We cannot dismiss the subject of Craigmillar
without a brief glance at some of those who occupied
it
Sir Simon Preston, who obtained it from John
de Capella, traced his descent up to Leolph de
Preston, who lived in the reign of William the
Lion; and, according to Douglas, his father was
Sir John Preston, who was taken at the battle of
Durham in 1346, and remained in the Tower of
London until ransomed.
In 1434 Sir Henry Preston of Craigmillar (whose
the case of the Laird of Criigmillar, who was sueing
for a divorce against his wife, the Earl of Bothwell
forcibly carried off one of the most important witnesses
to his Castle of Crichton, threatening him
with the gallows, ‘&as if there had been no king
in Israel.”
It was not until after the beginning of the present
century that the castle was permitted to fall into
ruin and decay, which it did rapidly. It was
in perfect preservation, no doubt, when, with ‘‘ all
PEFFER MILL-HOUSE. ... CRAIGMILLAR CASTLE. 61 when descending Craigmillar Hill, a queen’s soldier, who had a loose match in ...

Vol. 5  p. 61 (Rel. 0.56)

iv OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH.
CHAPTER VII.
PAGE
EDINBURGH CASTLE (conclzded). .
The Torture of Neville Payne-Jacobite Plots-Entombing the Regalia-Project for Surprising the Foltress-Right of Sanctuary Abolished
-Lord Drummond's Plot-Some Jacobite Prisoners-'' Rebel Ladies"- James Macgregor-The Castle Vaults-Attempts at Escape-
Fears as to the Destruction of the Crown, Sword, and Sceptre-Crown-room opened in 1794-Again in 1817, and the Regalia brought
forth-Mons Megseneml Description of the whole Castle . . . : . . . . . . . . . . . . 66
CHAPTER VIII. .
THE CA~STLE HILL.
Doyglas-Castle Hill Promenade-Question as to the Proprietary of the Esplanade and Castle Hill . . . . . . . .
The Esplanade or Castle Hill-The Castle Banks-The Celtic Crosses-The Secret Passage and Well house Tower-The Church on the Castle
Hill-The Reservoir-The House of Allan Ramsay-Executions for Treason, Sorcery, &.-The Master of Forbes-Lady Jane
79
CHAPTER IX.
THE CASTLE HILL (conczuded).
'Dr. Guthrie's O~pinal Ragged School-Old Homes in the Street of the Castle Hill-Duke of Gordon's House, Blair's Close-Webster's Close
-Dr. Alex. Webster-Eoswell s Court-Hyndford House-Assembly Hdl-Houses of the Marquis of Argyle, Sir Andrew Kennedy, the
Earl of Cassillis, the Laud of cockpen--Lord Semple's House-Lord Semple-Fah of Mary of Guise-Its Fate . . . . 87
CHAPTER X.
T H E LAWNMARKET.
The Lawnmarket-RiSjt-The Weigh-houstMajor Somerville and captain Crawford-AndeMn's Pills-Myhe's Court-James's Gourt-Sir
John Lauder-Sir Islay Campbell-David Hume--" Cprsica" Boswell-Dr. Johnso-Dr. Blki-" Gladstone's Land "-A Fire in 1771 94
CHAPTER XI.
THE LAWNMARKET (continued).
Lady Stair's Close-Gray of Pittendrum-"Aunt Margaret's M rror"-The Marshal Earl and Countess of Stair-Miss Feme-Sir Richard
Steel-Martha Countess of Kincardine-Bums's Room in Barfer's C1o.e-The Eridges' Shop ih Bank Stxet-Bailie MacMorran's
Story-Sir Francis Grant of Cullen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . I02
CHAPTER XII.
THE LAWNMARKET' (continued).
The Story of Deacon Brodie-His Career of Guilt-Hanged on his own Gibbet-Mauchine's Close, Robet? Gourlay's Hoiise and the other
Old Houses therein-The Rank of Scotland, 16~5-Assassination of Sir Gorge hckhart-Taken Red Hand-Punishment of Chiesly I12
CHAPTER XIII.
THE LAWNMARKET (concluded).
Gosford's Close- The Town House of the Abbot of Cambu~kcnncth-Tennant's House-Mansion of the Hays-Liberton's Wynd-Johnnie
Dowie's Tavern-Burns a d His Songs-The Place of Execution-Birthplace of "The Man of Feeling"-The Mirror Club-
Forrester's Wynd-The Heather Stacks in the Houses-Peter Williamn-Beith's Wynd-Habits of the Lawnmarket Woollen
Traders-"Lawnmarket Gazettes "-Melbourne Place-The County Hall-The Signet and Advocates' Libraries . . . . . I I8
CHAPTER XIV.
T H E TOLBOOTH.
Memori-1s of the Heart of Midlothian, or Old Tolbooth-Sir Walter Scott's Description-The Early Tolhth-The "Robin Hod"
Disturbances-Noted Prison-Entries from the Records--Lord Burleigh's Attempts at Escape-The Porteous Mob-The Stories
of Katherine Nairne and of Jam- Hay-The Town Guard-The Royal Bedesmen . . . . . . . . . . . . 12; ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. CHAPTER VII. PAGE EDINBURGH CASTLE (conclzded). . The Torture of Neville ...

Vol. 2  p. 386 (Rel. 0.55)

332 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [1745-
General Preston saluted with cannon the officers
of State who returned to Edinburgh on the 13th
November, and hauled down his colours, which had
been flying since the 16th of September. Guest then
assumed the command, and was nobly rewarded,
while Preston was consigned to neglect, and the
humble memorial of his long service was laid in
vain before the Duke of Cumberland. Thus he
reaped no advantage from his loyal adherence to
confined in damp vaults, and treated by the imtated
soldiers with every indignity and opprobrium.
To these were soon added a multitude of prisoners
of all ranks, belonging to the regiments of Buckley,
Berwick, and Clare, of the Irish Brigade in the
French service, captured by the Mi&~ord Haven
(40 guns), on board the Luis XK, off Montrose.
On the 9th December, Lord John Drummond, en
route to join the Prince in England, marched
THE WEIGH-HOUSE
(From a Drawk~ ay Storcr, #ubZished in 1820.)
the House of Hanover, whose policy it was then to
slight the Scots in every way.
By a letter from the Lord President to the
Marquis of Tweeddale (the last Scottish Secretary
of State), we learn that at this crisis bank notes had
ceased to be current, that all coin was locked up,
“so that the man of best credit in this country
cannot command a shilling;” that bills on Edinburgh
or London were of no value ; and that bills
drawn for the subsistence of the Earl of Loudon’s
regiment had been returned protested.
On the departure of the Prince the Castle was
crowded with those persons who had fallen under
the suspicion of Government ; among these were
-Alexander Earl of Kellie, and upwards of sixty
gentlemen, all of whom were heavily ironed, closely
through Edinburgh, with 800 men and a train of
18-pounders. He sent a drummer to the Castle
to effect an exchange of these prisoners, without
avail; and sixteen who were proved to have been
deserters from our army in Flanders were thrown
into the Castle pit, from whence four were taken
to the gallows in the Grassmarket. In the same
month young Macdonald of Kinlochmoidart, aidedecamp
to the Prince, was treacherously captured
in the night, near Lesmahago, by the Reverend
Mr. Linning, who, as the price of his blood,
received the incumbency of that parish, acccrding
to “ Forbes’s Memoirs ” ; and from the Castle he
was taken to Carlisle, where he was hanged, drawn,
and quartered.
About the end of November, when the High ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [1745- General Preston saluted with cannon the officers of State who returned to ...

Vol. 2  p. 332 (Rel. 0.55)

great leaders of that movement, and with cold and
hard hostility they gazed upon her wasted but once
beautifiil' features, as she conjured them in moving
terms to be loyal men and true to Mary, the girlqueen
of Scotland and of France, and touchingly
she implored the forgiveness of all. The apartment
in which she expired is one of those in the
royal lodging, within the present half - moon
battery. The rites of burial were denied her
body, and it lay in the Castle lapped in lead-till
carpets; the tables were of massive oak elaborately
carved ; the chairs of gilded leather with cushions
she had " eleven tapestries of gilded leather; right
of the ' Judgment of Paris'; five of the ' Triumph of
Virtue' j eight of green velvet brocaded with great
trees bearing armorial shields and holly branches ;
ten of cloth of gold and brocaded taffeta ; thirty
more of massive cloth of gold, one bearing the
story of the Count de Foix, eight bearing the
ducal arms of Longueville, five having the history
of King Rehoboam; four the hunts of the Unicorn;
as many more of the story of Eneis, and
EDINBURGH CASTLE, FROM THE SOUTH-WEST.
(Fa-simile 4f a Dutch Engraving fmm a Dmwing ay *don of RotUmay.) ... leaders of that movement, and with cold and hard hostility they gazed upon her wasted but once beautifiil' ...

Vol. 1  p. 45 (Rel. 0.55)

amounted to 500 men.” This enumeration probably
includes wounded.
On the 13th of June the duke pulled down the
king’s flag, and hoisted a white one, surrendering,
on terms, by which it was stipulated that the
soldiers should have their full liberty, and Colonel
Winram have security for his life and estates;
while Major Somerville, at the head of zoo
bayonets, took all the posts, except the citadel.
The duke drew up his forlorn band, now reduced to
fifty oficers and men, in the ruined Grand Parade,
and thanking them for their loyal services, gave each
a small sum to convey him home; and as hands were
shaken all round, many men wept, and so ended
For nearly four-and-twenty hours on both sides
the fire was maintained with fury, but slackened
about daybreak. “In the Castle only one man
was killed-a gunner, whom a cannon ball had
cut in two, through a gun-port, but many were
weltering in their blood behind the woolpacks
and in the trenches, where the number of slain
not to serve against William of Orange. HC died
in the year 1716, at his residence in the citadel of
Leith.
The Castle was once more fully repaired, and
presented nearly the same aspect in all its details
as we find it today. The alterations were conducted
under John Drury (chief of the Scottish
Engineers), who gave his name to one of the bastions
on the south; and Mylne’s Mount, another
on the north, is so named from liis assistant, Robert
Mylne, king’s master-mason and hereditary mastergunner
of the fartress ; and it was after this last
siege that the round turrets, or echauguettes, were
added to the bastions.
the siege. Though emaciated by long toil, starvation,
and gangrened wounds, the luckless soldiers
were cruelly treated by the rabble of the city.
The capitulation was violated j Colonel Winram
was seized as a prisoner of war, and the duke was
placed under close arrest in his own house,
~ Blair’s Close, but was released on giving his parole
INNEK GATEWAY OF THE CASTLE. ... to 500 men.” This enumeration probably includes wounded. On the 13th of June the duke pulled down ...

Vol. 1  p. 65 (Rel. 0.53)

west Port.] THE TILTING GROUND. 225
centuries,” and the access thereto from the Castle
must have been both inconvenient and circuitous.
It has been supposed that the earliest buildings
-on this site had been erected in the reign of James
IV., when the low ground to the westward was the
scene of those magnificent tournaments, which drew
to that princely monarch7s court the most brilliant
chivalry in Europe, and where those combats ensued
of which the king was seldom an idle spectator.
This tilting ground remained open and unen-
~
appointed for triell of suche matters.” Latterly
the place bore the name of Livingstone’s Yards.
We have mentioned the acquisition by the city
of the king‘s stables at the Restoration. Lord
Fountainhall records, under date I rth March,
1685, a reduction pursued by the Duke of Queensberry,
as Governor of the Castle, against Thomas
Boreland and other possessors of these stables, as
part of the Castle precincts and property. Boreland
and others asserted that they held their property in
THE GRASSMARKET, FROM THE WEST PORT, 1825. (Afhh’wbmk.)
closed when Maitland wrote. and is described by I virtue of a feu granted in the reign of James V.,
him as a pleasant green space, 150 yards long, by
50 broad, adjoining the Chapel of Our Lady ; but
this “pleasant green” is now intersected by the‘
hideous Kingsbridge ; one portion is occupied by
the Royal Horse Bazaar and St. Cuthbert’s Free
Church, while the rest is made odious by tan-pits,
slaughter-houses, and other dwellings of various
descriptions.
Calderwood records that in the challenge to
mortal combat, in 1571, between Sir William
I Kirkaldy of Grange, and Alexander Stewart
younger of Garlies, they were to fight “upon the
ground, the Baresse, be-west the West Port of
Edinburgh, the place accustomed and of old ,
I
77
but the judges decided that unless thedefenders
could prove a legal dissolution of the royal possession,
they must be held as the king‘s stables, and
be accordingly annexed to the crown of Scotland
Thomas Boreland’s house, one which long figured
in every view of the Castle from the foot of Vennel
{see Vol. I., p. 80), has recently been pulled down.
It was a handsome and substantial edifice of three
storeys in height, including the dormer windows,
crow-stepped, and having three most picturesque
gables in front, with a finely moulded door, on the
lintel of which were inscribed a date and legend :-
T. B. v. B. 1675.
FEAR. GOD. HONOR . THE. KING. ... Port.] THE TILTING GROUND. 225 centuries,” and the access thereto from the Castle must have been both ...

Vol. 4  p. 225 (Rel. 0.53)

your king, and will yield it to no power whatever.
But I respect that of the Parliament, and require
six days to consider its demand; for most important
is my charge, and my councillors, alas ! are
now few,” she added, bursting into tears, probably
as she thought of the many
“ Who on Flodden’s trampled sod,
Rendered up their souls to God.”
For their king and for their country,
Alarmed at a refusal so daring, Angus entreated
PLAN OF EDINRURGH, SHOWING THE FLODDEN WALL. (Snscd on &rdon of Rothiemy’s Mnp, 1647.)
her brother, Henry VIII., by complaining that she
had been little else than a captive in the Castle
Edinburgh.
Meanwhile the Duke of Albany had taken UP
his residence at Holyrood, and seems to have proceeded,
between 1515-16, with the enlargement
the royal buildings attached to the Abbey House,
in continuation of the works carried on there by
the late king, till the day of Flodden. Throughout
the minority of James V. Edinburgh continued tO
her to obey the Estates, and took an instrument
to the effect that he had no share in it; but she
remained inexorable, and the mortified delegates
returned to report the unsuccessful issue of their
mission. Aware that she was unable to contend
with the Estates, she secretly retired with her sons
to Stirling, and, after placing them in charge of the
Lords Borthwick and Fleming, returned to her
former residence, though, according to Chalmers,
she had no right of dowry therein. Distrusting the
people, and, as a Tudor, distrusted by them, she
remained aloof from all, until one day, escorted
by Lord Home and fifty lances, she suddenly rode
to the Castle of Blackadder (near Berwick), from
be disturbed by the armed contentions of the
nobles, especially those of Angus and Arran ; and
in a slender endeavour to repress this spirit the
salary of the Provost was augmented, and a small
guard of halberdiers was appointed to attend him.
Among those committed prisoners to the Castle
by Albany were the Lord Home and his brother
William for treason; they escaped, but were retaken,
and beheaded 16th October, 1516, and
their heads were placed on the Tolbooth.* Huntly
and Moray were next prisoners, for fighting at the
head of their vassals in the streets; and the next
was Sir Lewk Stirling, for an armed brawl.
-- ... king, and will yield it to no power whatever. But I respect that of the Parliament, and require six days to ...

Vol. 1  p. 40 (Rel. 0.52)

the permanent and undisputed capital of Scotland.
Sorrow and indignation spread over all the realm
when the fate of James was heard, and no place
seemed to afford such security to the royal person
as the impregnable Castle of Edinburgh j thus
Queen Jane, ignorant of the ramifications of that
.conspiracy by which her princely husband was
,slain (actually in her arms), instantly joined her
.son James II., who since his birth had dwelt
there. It was then in the hands of William Baron
.of Crichton-a powerful, subtle, and ambitious
statesman, who was Master of the Household.
with every solemnity, on the 25th of March, 1437.
The queen-mother was named his guardian, with
an allowance of 4,000 merks yearly, and Archibald
the great Earl of Uouglas and Angus (Duke of
Touraine) was appointed lieutenant-general of the
kingdom. During the two subsequent years the
little king resided entirely in the Castle under the
custody of Crichton, now Lord Chancellor, greatly
to the displeasure of the queen and her party, who
found him thus placed completely beyond their
control or influence.
In short, it was no longer the queen-mother,
RUINS OF THE WELL-HOUSE TOWER. (~m a D7awifirb W ~ Z Z ~ ~ X . paton, R.s.A.)
Within forty days nearly all concerned in the
imurder of the late king were brought to Edinburgh,
where the ignoble were at once consigned
to the hangman; but for the Earl of Athol and
bother titled leaders were devised tortures worthy
.alone of Chinese or Kaffir ingenuity. Crowned
by a red-hot diadem as " King of Traitors," at the
Market Cross, after undergoing three days of un-
.exampled agonies in sight of the people and the
Papal Nuncio, afterwards Pius II., the body of the
earl was dragged nude through the streets ; it was
then beheaded and quartered.
On the assembly of the Lords of Parliament,
-their first care was the coronation of James II.,
-who was conducted in procession from the Castle
$0 the church of Holyrood, where he was crowned,
but the crafty Crichton, who had uncontrolled
custody of the little sovereign, and who thus was
enabled to seize the revenues, and surround him
by a host of parasites, who permitted neither her,
nor the Regent, Sir Alexander Livingstone of
Callender, to have any share in the government
A bitter feud was the consequence, and Scotland
again was rent into two hostile factions, a state of
matters of which the English could not, as usual,
make profit, as they were embroiled among themselves.
The queen remained with the regent at
Stirling, while her son was literally a prisoner at
Edinburgh ; but, womanlike, the mother formed a
plan of her own to outwit the enemy.
Visiting the Castle, she professed a great regard
for the Chancellor, and a desire to be with her son, ... permanent and undisputed capital of Scotland. Sorrow and indignation spread over all the realm when the fate ...

Vol. 1  p. 29 (Rel. 0.52)

England, but they failed to excite mutiny ; yet a
plan was formed by which it was expected that the
Castle and city would both fall into the hands of
the Friends of the People, who were secretly arming.
The design was this :-
“A fire was to be raised near the excise office,
which would require the attendance of the soldiers,
who were to be met on their way by a body of the
THE WHITE HART INN, GRASSMARKET.
committee of “ Sense and Money” was formed to
procure them. Two smiths, named Robert Orrock
and William Brown, who had enrolled, received
orders to make 4,000 pikes, some of which were
actually completed, delivered to Watt, and paid
for by Downie in his capacity as treasurer.
Meanwhile the trials of Skirving, Margarot, and
. Gerald, had taken place, for complicity to a certain
to issue from the West Bow, confine the soldiers
between two forces, and cut off all retreat. The
Castle was next to be attempted, the judges and
magistrates were to be,seized, and all the public
banks to be secured. A proclamation was then
to be issued, ordering all farmers to bring in their
grain to the market as usual, and enjoining all
country gentlemen unfriendly to the cause to keep
within their houses, or three miles of them, under
penalty of death. Then an address was to be sent
to his Majesty, commanding him to put an end to
the war, to change his ministers, or take the consequences
! ” Similar events were to take place in
Dublin and London on the same night
Before this startling scheme could be effected,
arms of all descriptions were necessary, and a third
until about the 15th of May, 1794 that Watt and
Downie were apprehended. On that day it chanced
that two sheriff officers when searching the house
of the former for the secreted goods of a bankrupt,
found some pikes, which they conveyed to the
sheriff’s chambers. A warrant was issued to search
the whole premises, and in the cellars a form of
types from which the address to the troops had
been printed, and a great quantity of pikes, were
discovered, while in the house, thirty-three in
various stages of completion were found. Hence,
early on the morning of June and, Watt, Downie,
and. Orrock, were conveyed from the old Tolbooth
to the Castle, as State prisoners, and lodged in the
strong apartment above the portcullis.
True bills of indictment being found against ... but they failed to excite mutiny ; yet a plan was formed by which it was expected that the Castle and ...

Vol. 4  p. 237 (Rel. 0.52)

reality as a spy from Elizabeth. “He was next
visited, in a pretended friendly manner, by Sir
Williain Drury, Elizabeth’s Marshal of Berwick,
the same who built Drury House in Wych Street,
London, and who fell in a duel with Sir John
Burroughs about precedence, and from whom
Drury Lane takes its name. When about to enter
the Castle gate, an English deserter, who had
enlisted under Queen Mary, in memory of some
grudge, was about to shoot him with his arquebuse,
ROOM IN EDINBURGH GASTLE IN WHICH JAMES VI. WAS BORN.
began to invest the Castle with his paid Scottish
companies, who formed a battery on the Cast!e
hill, from which Kirkaldy drove them all in rout
on the night of the 15th. On the following day,
Sir William Drury, in direct violation of the
Treaty of Blois, which declared “that no foreign
troops should enter Scotland,” at the head of the
old bands of Berwick, about 1,500 men, marched
for Edinburgh. A trumpeter, on the 25th of April,
summoned Kirkaldy to surrender j but he replied
Kirkaldy. This courtesy was ill-requited by his red flag on David‘s Tower as a token of resistance
of the walls, &c.” In anticipation of a siege, the
citizens built several traverses to save the High
Street from being enfiladed ; one of these, formed
between the Thieves’ Hole and Bess Wynd, was two
ells in thickness, composed of turf and mud; and
another near it was two spears high. In the city,
the Parliament assembled on the I 7th of January,
with a sham regalia of gilt brass, as Kirkaldy had
the crown and real regalia in the Castle.
When joined by some English pioneers, Morton
by the 15th of May. These were armed with
thirty guns, including two enormous bombardes or
roo-pounders, which were loaded by means of a
crane ; a great carthoun or £er ; and many
18-pounders. There was also a movable battery
of falcons. Under the Regent Morton, the first
battery was on the high ground now occupied by the
Heriot’s Hospital; the second,under Drury,opposed
to St. Margaret’s Tower, was near the Lothian
Road ; the third, under Sir C-eorge Carey, and the ... as a spy from Elizabeth. “He was next visited, in a pretended friendly manner, by Sir Williain Drury, ...

Vol. 1  p. 48 (Rel. 0.51)

I20 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [COrStOrphiie.
fact came to her kcoivledge. Inspired with fury
she repaired at once to the castle of Corstorphine,
and finding that he was drinkiig at a tavern in the
village, sent for him, and they met in the garden
at a tree near the old dovecot, which marked the
spot. A violent altercation ensued between them,
and in the midst of it, she snatched his sword from
his side, ran him through the body and killed him
on the instant. (Fountainhall.)
“The inhabitants of th’e village,” says C. Kirksought
to extenuate it on the plea that Lord Forrester
was intoxicated and furious, that he ran at her
’ with his sword, on which she took it from him to
protect herself, and he fell upon it; but this was
known to be false, says Fountainhall. She practised
a deception upon the court by which her sentence
of death was postponed for two months, during
which, notwithstanding the care of her enjoined on
John Wan, Gudeman of the Tolbooth, she escaped
in male apparel but was captured by the Ruthvens
CORSTORPHINE CHURCH.
patrick Sharpe, in his Notes to Kirkton’s “ History,”
“ still relate some circumstances of the murder not
recorded by Fountainhall. Mrs. Nimmo, attended
by her maid, had gone from Edinburgh to the
castle of Corstorphine,” and adds that after the
murder “she took refuge in a garret of the castle,
but was discovered by one of her slippers, which
dropped through a crevice of the floor. It need
scarcely be added, that till lately the inhabitants
of the village were greatly annoyed of a moonlight
night by the appearance of a woman clothed in
white, with a bloody sword in her hand, wandering
and wailing near the pigeon-house.”
Being seized and brought before the Sheriffs of
Edinburgh, she made a confession of her crime, but
next day at Fala MilL On the 12th of November,
1679, she was beheaded at the market cross, when
she appeared on the scaffold in deep mourning,
laying aside a large veil, and baring her neck and
shoulders to the executioner with the utmost
courage.
Though externally a Presbyterian it was said at
the time “that a dispensation from the Pope to
marry the woman who murdered him was found in
his (Lord Forrester’s) closet, and that his delay in
using it occasioned her fury.” (‘< Popery and
Schism,” p. 39.)
Connected with this murder, a circumstance very
characteristic of the age took place. The deceased
peer leaving onIy heirs of his second marriage, who ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [COrStOrphiie. fact came to her kcoivledge. Inspired with fury she repaired at once to ...

Vol. 5  p. 120 (Rel. 0.51)

THE Castle Hill,” says Dr. Chambers, “ is partly ’
an esplanade, serving as a parade ground for the
garrison, and partly a street, the upper portion of
that vertebral line which, under the names of Lawnbeen
characterised as “ hovels that are a disgrace
to Europe.”
In lists concerning the Castle of Edinburgh,
the first governor appears to have been Thomas de
Cancia in I 147 ; the first constable, David Kincaid
of Coates House, in 1542 ; and the first State prisoner
warded therein Thomas of. Colville in 12 10,
for conspiring against William the Lion.
We may fittingly take leave of the grand old
‘( Archzologia Scotica,” which contains an “ Elegie
on the great and famous Blew Stone which lay on
the Castle Hill, and was interred there.” On this
relic, probably a boulder, a string of verses form ,
Castle in the fine lines of Burns’s “Address to
Edinburgh ” :-
~ “ There, watching high the least alarms,
Thy rough, rude fortress gleams afar;
Like some bold ver’ran, grey in arms,
And marked with many a seamy scar ;
The pond’rous wall and massy bar,
Grim rising o’er the rugged rock,
Have oft withstood assailing war,
And oft repelled th’ invader’s shock.”
market, High Street, and Canongate, extends to I the doggerel elegy :-
Holyrood Palace f but
it is with the Esplanade
and banks we have
chiefly to deal at
present.
Those who now see
the Esplanade, a peaceful
open space, 5 10 feet
in length by 300 in
breadth,with the squads
of Highland soldiers at
drill, or the green bank
that slopes away to the
north, covered with
beautiful timber, swarming
in summer with little
ones in care of their
nurses, can scarcely
realise that thereon
stood the ancient Spur,
before which so many
men have perished
RUNIC CROSS, CASTLE BANK.
sword in hand, and that it was the arena of so
many revolting executions by the axe and stake,
for treason, hereay, and sorcery.
It lay in a rough state till 1753, when the earth
taken from the foundations of the Royal Exchange
\vas spread over it, and the broad flight of forty
steps which gave access to the drawbridge was
buried. The present ravelin before the half-moon
was built in 1723 ; but alterations in the level must
have taken place prior to that, to judge from
“Our old Blew Stone, that’s
His marrow may not be;
Large, twenty feet in length
His bulk none e’er did
Doiir and dief, and run with
When he preserved men.
Behind his back a batterie
Contrived with packs of
Let’s now think on, since
We ’re in the Castle’s
dead and gone,
he was,
ken ;
grief,
was,
woo,
he is gone,
view.“
The woolpacks evidently
refer to the siege
of 1689.
The Esplanade was
impraved in 1816 by a
parnpet and railing on
the north. and a fea
years after by a low mall on the south, strengthened
by alternate towers and turrets. A bronze statue of
the Duke of York and Albany, K.G., holding his
marshal’s b%ton, was erected on the north side in
1839, and a little lower down are two Celtic memorial
crosses of remarkable beauty. The larger and
more ornate of them was erected in 1862, by the
officers and soldiers of the 78th Ross-shire Highlanders,
to the memory of their comrades who fell
during the revolt in India in 1857-8 j and the ... Castle Hill,” says Dr. Chambers, “ is partly ’ an esplanade, serving as a parade ground for the garrison, and ...

Vol. 1  p. 79 (Rel. 0.5)

the following day, accompanied by twelve armed
‘ men, disguised as seamen, with hoods over their
helmets, he appeared at the Castle gates, where they
contrived to overturn their casks and hampers, so
as to prevent the barriers being closed by the
guards and warders, who were instantly slain. At
a given signal-the shrill blast of a bugle-horn-
Douglas and his companions, with their war-cry,
rushed from a place of concealment close by. Sir
Richard de Limoisin, the governor, made a bitter
resistance, but was overpowered in the end, and
his garrison became the prisoners of David II.,
who returned from France in the following month,
accompanied by his queen Johanna; and by that
time not an Englishman was left in Scotland. But
miserable was the fate of Bullock. By order of a
Sir David Berkeley he was thrown into the castle
of Lochindorb, in Morayshire, and deliberately
starved to death. On this a Scottish historian
remarks, “ It is an ancient saying, that neither the
powekful, nor the valiant, nor the wise, long
flourish in Scotland, since envy obtaineth the
mastery of them all.”
When, a few years afterwards, the unfortunate
battle of Durham ended in the defeat of the Scots,
and left their king a prisoner of war, we find
in the treaty for his ransom, the merchants of
Edinburgh, together with those of Perth, Aberdeen,
atid Dundee, binding themselves to see it paid.
In 1357 a Parliament was held at Edinburgh for
its final adjustment, when the Regent Robert
(afterwards Robert 11.) presided ; in addition to
the clergy and nobles, there were present delegates
from seventeen burghs, and among these Edinburgh
In 1365 we find a four years’ truce with England,
signed at London on the 20th May, and in
the Castle on the 12th of June; and another for
I appeared at the head for thejrst time.
fourteen years, dated at the Castle 28th October,
1371-
So often had the storm of war desolated its
towers, that the Castle of Edinburgh (which
became David’s favourite residence after his return
from England ‘in 1357) was found to require
extensive repairs, and to these the king devoted
himself. On the cliff to the northward he built
“David’s Tower,” an edifice of great height and
strength, and therein he died on the zznd February,
1371, and was buried before the high altar
at Holyrood. The last of the direct line of Brucea
name inseparably connected with the military
glory and independence of Scotland-David was a
monarch who, in happier times, would have done
much to elevate his people. The years of his
captivity in England he beguiled with his pencil,
and in a vault of Nottingham Castle “he left
behind hini,” says Abercrornbie, in his “ Martial
Achievements,” I‘ the whole story of our Saviour’s
Passion, curiously engraven on the rock with his
own hands. For this, says one, that castle became
as famous as formerly it had been for Mortimer’s
hole.”
It was during bis reign that, by the military
ingenuity of John Earl of Carrick and four other
knights of skill, the Castle was so well fortified, that,
with a proper garrison, the Duke of Rothesay was
able to resist the utmost efforts of Henry IV.,
when he besieged it for several weeks in 1400.
The Castle had been conferred as a free gift upon
Earl John by his father King Robert, and in consequence
of the sufferings endured by the inhabitants
when the city was burned by the English,
under Richard II., he by charter empowered the
citizens to build houses within the fortress, free of
fees to the constable, on the simple understanding
that they were persons of good fame.
‘
.
-
CHAPTER IV.
CASTLE OF EDINBURGH-(continucd).
Progress of the Cuy-Ambassador of Charles VI.- Edinburgh burned-Henry IV. batAed-Albany’s Prophecy-Laws regarding the Building
of House-Sumptuary Laws, 1457-Murder of James I.-Coronation of James 11.-Court Intrigues-Lord Chancellor Crichton-Arrogance
of the Earl of Douglas-~-Faction Wars-The Castle Besieged-“ The Black DinneF”-Edinburgh walled-Its Strength-Bale-fires.
THE chief characteristic of the infant city now was
that of a frontier town, ever on the watch to take
arms against an invader, and resolute to resist him.
Walsingham speaks of it as a village ; and in 1385
its population is supposed to have barely exceeded
2,oooj yet Froissart called it the Pans of Scotland,
though its central street presented but a
meagre line of thatched or stane-dated houses,
few of which were more than twenty feet in height.
Froissart numbers them at 4,000, which would
give a greater population than has been alleged.
With the accession of Robert 11.-the first of the ... following day, accompanied by twelve armed ‘ men, disguised as seamen, with hoods over their helmets, he ...

Vol. 1  p. 26 (Rel. 0.5)

discharged by the hand of the Major-General commanding.
From the “ Archieologia Scotica ” we cull the
following curious anecdote :-Soon after the death
of Cromwell, the English Council, in 1660, suspecting
General Monk’s fidelity, sent an order
to remove him from the head of their forces in
Scotland. Their ordinary special messenger, who
received it, concealed its nature, and at once began
his march southward, with the army of Scotland, to
accomplish the Restoration.
When the Puritan gunners in the Castle were
ordered to fire a salute in honour of that event, an
old “saint” of Oliver‘s first campaigns bluntly refused
obedience, saying, “May the devil blaw me
into the air gif I lowse a cannon this day ! If I do,
that the principal
servant of the former met, near the Canongate-
head, his old friend the messenger, whom
he accosted with cordiality. “ How comes it,”
he asked, “that you go in this direction, and
not, as usual, to the General at Dalkeith?”
“Because my despatches are for the Castle.”
With ready wit the servant of Monk suspected that
something was wrong, and proposed they should
have a bottle together. The messenger partook
freely ; the servant purloined the despatch; Monk
Tower on the accusation of “complying with
Cromwell in the death of Charles I.”
Thus he found himself a captive in the dungeons
under the same hall in which he had feasted the
Protector, and where he could hear the salutes
fired as the remains of his rival Montrose were
laid in the church of St. Giles. He was brought
to trial in the Parliament House, where Middleton,
with fierce exultation, laid before the peers certain
letters written by the Marquis to Cromwell, all
expressive of attachment to him personally and ... by the hand of the Major-General commanding. From the “ Archieologia Scotica ” we cull the following ...

Vol. 1  p. 56 (Rel. 0.5)

AFTER the royal marriage and coronation of
Tames 111. with Margaret of Oldenburg-both of
which ceremonies took place with great pomp at
Edinburgh in 1476, he unfortunately contrived to
lisgust his proud nobility by receiving into favour
many persons of inferior rank. Thus, deep and
dangerous intrigues were formed against him, and
by those minions he was soon made aware that his
brothers-Alexander Duke of Albany, and John
Earl of Mar-were forming a conspiracy against
him, and that the former aimed at nothing less than
wresting the sceptre from his hand, and getting
himself, with English aid, crowned as Alexander IV.,
King of Scotland and the Isles-a fact since proved
by authentic documents.
Instead of employing his authority as Warden of
the Marches in the repression of outrage, Albany
THE ROYAL LODGING OR PALACE, FROM THE GRAND PARADE.
I than once; he slew John of Scougal in East
Lothian; and surrounded himself with a band of
desperadoes, who at his behest executed the most
nefarious crimes.
The dark accusations under which he lay roused
at length the suspicions of the king, who ordered
the arrest of both him and Mar. Over the latter's
fate there hangs a strange mystery. One historian
declares that he died of fever in the Canongate,
under the spells of witches who were burned
therefor. Another records that he was bled to
death in Craigmillar Castle; and the singular discovery
there in 1818 of a man's skeleton built erect
into the north wall was thought to warrant the
adoption of the last account.
In 1482 Albany was committed to the Castle
of Edinburgh, a close prisoner in the hands of ... the royal marriage and coronation of Tames 111. with Margaret of Oldenburg-both of which ceremonies took ...

Vol. 1  p. 32 (Rel. 0.49)

70 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Edinburgh Castle.
‘‘ by a net tied to an iron ring ; he fell and fractured
by Miss Balrnain, who remained in her stead, and
who was afterwards allowed to go free. ,
In 1752 the Castle received a remarkable
prisoner, in the person of James Mhor Macgregor
of Bohaldie, the eldest of the four sons of,Rob
Roy, who had lost his estate for the part he had
taken in the recent civil strife, “and holding a
major’s commission under the old Pretender.”
Robin Oig Macgregor, his younger brother, having
conceived that he would make his fortune by
at his captious employers. ~ “An old and tattered
great-coat enveloped him ; he had donned a leather
apron, a pair of old shoes, and ribbed stockings.
A red night-cap was drawn to his ears, and a.
broad hat slouched over his eyes.” He quitted
the Castle undiscovered, and left the city without
delay; but his flight was soon known, the city
gates were shut, the fortress searched, and every
man who had been on duty was made a prisoner.
A court-martial, consisting of thirteen officers, sat
-
considered as the chief instigator of this outrage,
thus the vengeance of the Crown was directed
against him rather than Robin, “who was considered
but a half-wild Highlandman ; ” and in
virtue of a warrant of fugitation issued, he was
arrested and tried. The Lords of Justiciary
found him guilty, but in consequence of some
doubts, or informality, sentence of death was
delayed until the 20th of November, 1752. In
consequence of an expected rescue-meditated by
Highlanders who served in the city as caddies,
chairmen, and city guards, among whom Macgregor‘
s bravery at Prestonpans, seven years before,
made him popular-he was removed by a
warrant from the Lord Justice Clerk, addressed
to General Churchill, from the Tolbooth to the
Castle, there to be kept in close confinement till
his fatal day amved.
But it came to pass, that on the 16th of November,
one of his daughters-a tall and very
handsome girl-had the skill and courage to disguise
herself as a lame old cobbler, and was
ushered into his prison, bearing a pair of newlysoled
shoes in furtherance of her scheme. The
sentinels in the adjacent corridors heard Lady
Bohaldie scolding the supposed cobbler with considerable
asperity for some time, with reference to
the indifferent manner in which his work had been
his- skull,” on tlie rock facing Livingstone’s Yards,
-the old tilting ground, oin the south side of the
Castle‘ rock. This was a singularly unfortunate
man in his domestic relations. His eldest son was
taken prisoner at Carlisle, and executed there with
the barbarity then usual. His next son, Thomas,
was poisoned by his wife, the famous and beautiful
Katherine Nairne (who escaped), but whose paramour,
the third son, Lieutenant Patrick Ogilvie of
the 89th or old Gordon Highlanders (disbanded
in 1765), was publicly hanged in the Grassmarket.
In July, 1753, the last of those who were tried
for loyalty to the House of Stuart was placed in
the Castle-Archibald Macdonald, son of the aged
Cole Macdonald of Barrisdale, who died a captive
there in 1750. Arraigned as a traitor, this unfor.
tunate gentleman behaved with great dignity before
the court; he admitted that he was the person
accused, but boldly denied the treason, and asserted
his loyalty to his lawful king. “On the
30th March he was condemned to die; but the
vengeance of the Government had already been
glutted, and after receiving various successive reprieves,
young Barrisdale was released, and permitted
to return to the Western Isles.”
From this period till nearly the days of Waterloo
the Castle vaults were invariably used in every war ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Edinburgh Castle. ‘‘ by a net tied to an iron ring ; he fell and fractured by Miss ...

Vol. 1  p. 70 (Rel. 0.49)

66
About this time a strange story went abroad
concerning the spectre of Dundee ; the terrible
yet handsome Claverhouse, in his flowing wig and
glittering breastplate, appearing to bis friend the
Earl of Balcarres, then a prisoner in the Castle, and
awaiting tidings of the first battle with keen anxiety.
.\bout daybreak on the morning when Killiecrankie
was fought and lost by the Williamites, the
spectre of Dundee is said to have come to Bal-
OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH.
“After this’”(says C. K. Sharpe, in a note to
‘ Law’s Memorials I), “ it moved towards the
mantelpiece, remained there for a short time in a
leaning posture, and thed walked out of the
’ chamber without uttering one word. Lord Balcarres,
in great surprise, though not suspecting that what
he saw WAS an. apparition, called out ‘repeatedly on
his friend to stop, but received no answer, and
subsequently learned that at the very moment the
[Edinburgh Castle.’
CHAPTER vIr.
EDINBURGH CASTLE ( G O Z C ~ ~ ~ ) .
The Torture of Neville Payne-Jacobite Plots-Entombing the Regalia-Project for Surprising the Foitress-Right of Sanctuary Abolished-
Lord Drummond‘s Plot-Some Jacobite Prisoners-“ Rebel Ladies”-James Macgregor-The Castle Vaults-Attempts nt Escape-Fears
as to the Destruction of the Crown, Sword, and Sceptre-Crown-room opened in ~;rg+-Again in 7817, and the Regalia brought forth-Mons
Meg-General Description of the whole Castle.
AMONG the many unfortunates who have pined as
prisoners of state in the Castle, few suffered more
than Henry Neville Payne, an English gentleman,
who was accused of being a Jacobite conspirator.
About the time of the battle of the Boyne, when
the Earl of Annandale, Lord ROSS, Sir Robert
hlontgomerie of Skelmorlie, Robert Fergusson
“ the plotter,” and others, were forming a scheme
in Scotland for the restoration of King James,
Payne had been sent there in connection with
it, but was discovered in Dumfriesshire, seized,
and sent to Edinburgh. Lockhart, the Solicitor-
General for Scotland, who happened to be in
London, coolly wrote to the Earl of Melville,
Secretary of State at Edinburgh, saying, “ that there
was no doubt that he (Payne) knew as much as
would hang a thousand; but except you put him
to the torture, he will shame you all. Pray you, put
him in such hands as will have no pity on him!”*
The Council, however, had anticipated these
amiable instructions, and Payne had borne torture
to extremity, by boot and thumbscrews, without
confessing anything. On the loth of December,
under express instruction signed by King William,
and countersigned by Lord Melville, the process
was to be repeated; and this was done in the
presence of the Earl of Crawford, “with all the
seventy,” he reported, “ that was consistent with
humanity, even unto that pitch that we could not
preserve life and have gone further, but without the
least success. He was so manly and resolute under
his sufferings that such of the Council as were not
Melville’s Coiiespondence.
acquainted with the evidence, were brangled, and
began to give him charity that he might be innocent.
It was surprising that flesh and blood could, without
fainting, endure the heavy penance he was in for
two hours.” This unfortunate Englishman, in his
maimed and shattered condition, was now thrown
into a vault of the Castle, where none had access
to him save a doctor. Again and again it was represented
to the ‘I humane and pious King William”
that to keep Payne in prison Id without trial was contrary
to law;” but notwithstanding repeated petitions
for trial and mercy, in defiance of the Bill of
Rights, William allowed him to languish from year
to year for ten years ; until, on the 4th of February,
1701, he was liberated, in broken health, poverty,
and premature old age, without the security for
reappearance, which was customary in such cases.
Many plots were formed by the Jacobites-one
about 1695, by Fraser of Beaufort (the future
Lovat), and another in 1703, to surprise the
Castle, as being deemed the key to the whole
kingdom-but without success ; and soon after the
Union, in 1707, its walls witnessed that which was
deemed ‘I the last act of that national tragedy,” the
entombing of thz regalia, which, by the Treaty,
“ are never more to be used, but kept constantly
in the Castle of Edinburgh.”
In presence of Colonel Stuart, the constable ; Sir
James Mackenzie, Clerk of the Treasury ; William
Wilson, Deputy-Clerk of Session-the crown,
sceptre, sword of state, and Treasurer‘s rod, were
solemnly deposited in their usual receptacle, the
crown-room, on the 26th of March. “Animated
by the sam- glow of patriotism that fired the ... this time a strange story went abroad concerning the spectre of Dundee ; the terrible yet handsome ...

Vol. 1  p. 66 (Rel. 0.49)

James IV., while preparing for his fatal invasion
rn 1513, went daily to the Castle to inspect and
prove his artillery, and by the bursting of one of
them he narrowly escaped a terrible death, like
that by which his grandfather, James II., perished
at Roxburgh. “ The seven sisters of Borthwick,”
referred to by Scott in “Marmion,” were captured,
with the rest of the Scottish train, at Flodden,
where the Earl of Surrey, when he saw them, said
there were no cannon so beautiful in the arsenals
of King Henry,
-.
After the accession of James V,, the Castle was ,
THE BLUE BLANKET, OR STAXDARD OF THE INCORPORATED TRADES OF EDINBURGH.
(From #he T Y ~ S ’ Maiden’s HosjiiaZ, RiZZbank.)
named the Forge and Gun Houses, Lower Ammunition
House, the Register and Jewel Houses,
the Kitchen Tower, and Royal Lodging, containing
the great hall (now a hospital). Westward
were the Butts, still ‘so-called, where archery was
practised. There were, and are still, several deep
wells ; and one at the base of the rock to the
northward, in a vault of the Well-house Tower,
between the west angle of which and the rock was
an iron gate defended by loopholes closing the
path that led to St. Cuthbert’s church, A massive
rampart and two circular bastions washed by the
improved by the skill of the royal architect, Sir
James Hamilton of Finnart, and greatly strengthened
; but its aspect was very different from that
which it bears now.
The entire summit of ~e stupendous rock was
crowned by a lofty wall, connecting a series of
round or square towers, defended by about thirty
pieces of cannon, called “ chambers,” which were
removed in 1540. Cut-throats, iron slangs, and
arquebuses, defended the parapets. Two tall edifices,
the Peel and Constable’s Towers connected
by a curtain, faced the city, overlooking the Spur,
a vast triangular ravelin, a species of lower castle
that covered all the summit of the hill. Its walls
were twenty feet high, turreted at the angles, and
armed with cannon. The Constable’s Tower was
fifty feet high. Wallace’s Tower, a little. below it,
defended the portcullis. St. Margaret’s Tower and
David’s we have already referred to. The others
that abutted 00 the rocks were respectively
Flodden on the 9th of September, 1513, caused
a consternation in Edinburgh unusual even in
those days of war and tumult. The wail that
went through the streets is still remembered in ... IV., while preparing for his fatal invasion rn 1513, went daily to the Castle to inspect and prove his ...

Vol. 1  p. 36 (Rel. 0.48)

Count’s troops, chiefly cavalry, now gave way, but
still fighting with the dogged valour of Walloons.
Part of them that fled by Sk Mary’s Wynd were
nearly cut to pieces by Sir David de Annan, who
led his men battle-axe in hand. The few that
escaped him joined others who had reached the
Castle. There
they slaughtered
their horses, made
a rampart of the
bodies,andfought
behind it with an
energy born of
despair, till hunger
and thirst on
the following day
compelled them
to capitulate, and
the Earl of Moray
suffered them
to depart on giving
oath never
again to beararms
against David 11.
of Scotland.
In 1867 agreat
q u a n t i t y of
bones-the relics
of this conflictwere
discovered
about five feet
below the surface,
on the northern
verge of the
Eurghmuir, where
now Glengyl e
Terrace is built,
and were decently
re-interred by the
authorities.
In 1336 Edward
III., still prosecuting
the cause
of the minion
~~
cunning enemy to whom the secret is unknown.
The entrance is still seen in the side of the deep
draw-well, which served alike to cloak their purpose
and to secure for the concealed a ready
supply of pure water. From this point Ramsay
often extended his ravages into Northumberland.
‘‘ WALLACE’S CRADLE,” EDINBURGH CASTLE.
Baliol against King David, re-fortified the ruin ; and
on the 15th June Sir John de Kingeston was again
appointed its governor ; but he had a hard time of
it ; the whole adjacent country was filled by adventurous
bands of armed Scots. The most resolute
and active of these was the band of Sir Alexander
Ramsay of Dalhousie, whose place of retreat was
in the caves beneath the romantic house of Hawthornden,
then the abode of a traitor named
Abernethy, and which are so ingeniously constructed
as to elude the vigilance of the most
4
Covered with
glory and honour,
the noble King
Robert, the skilful
Randolph, and
the chivalrous Sir
James Douglas,
had all gone
down to the silent
tomb ; but other
heroes succeeded
them, and valiant
deeds were done.
The Scots thought
of nothing but
battle; the plough
was allowed to
rust, and the earth
to take care of
itself. By 1337
the Eoglish were
again almost entirely
driven out
of Scotland, and
the Castle of
Edinburgh was
recaptured from
them through an
ingenious strai%
gem, planned by
William Bullock,
a priest, who had
been captain of
Cupar Castle for
Baliol, “and was
a man very brave
and faithful to the
Scots, and of
great use to them,” according to Buchanan.
Under his directions, Walter Curry, of Dundee,
received into his ship two hundred select Scottish
soldiers, led by William Douglas, Sir Simon Fraser,
Sir John Sandilands, and Bullock also. Anchoring
in Leith Roads, the latter presented himself to the
governor as master of an English ship just arrived
with wines and provisions, which he offered to sell
for the use of the garrison. The bait took all the
more Keadily that the supposed captain had closely
shaven himself in the Anglo-Norman fashion. On ... troops, chiefly cavalry, now gave way, but still fighting with the dogged valour of Walloons. Part of ...

Vol. 1  p. 25 (Rel. 0.47)

smaller cross was raised, " In memory of Colonel
Kenneth Douglas Mackenzie, C.B., who served for
forty-two years in the 92nd Highlanders-who saw
much of service in the field, and deserved well of
his country in war and in peace. . . . Died on
duty at Dartmoor, 24th August, 1873."
On the green bank behind the duke's statue is a
Two relics of great autiquity remain on this side
of the Castle bank-a fragment of the secret
passage, and the ruins of the Well-house tower,
which, in 1450, and for long after, guarded the
pathway that led under the rock to the church oi
St. Cuthbert. Within the upper and lower portion
of this tower, a stair, hewn in the living rock, was
EDINBURGH CASTLE, FROM THE KING'S MEWS, 1825. (AfterEw6ank.)
very curious monumental stone, which, however,
can scarcely be deemed a local antiquity-though
of vast age. It was brought from the coast of
Sweden by Sir -4lexander Seton, of Preston, many
years ago. On it is engraved a serpent encircling a
cross, and on the body of the former is an inscription
in runes, signifying-
ARI ENGRAVED THIS STONE I q MEMORY
OF HIALM, HIS FATHER.
.
GOD HELP HIS SOUL!
found a few years ago, buried under a mass of
rubbish, among which was a human skull, shattered
by concussion on a step. Many human bones lay
near it, with various coins, chiefly of Edward I. and
Edward 111. ; others were Scottish and foreign.
Many fragments of exploded bombs were found
among the upper layer of rubbish, and in a
breach of the tower was found imbedded a
48-pound shot. At certain seasons,. woodcock,
snipe, and waterducks are seen hovering near ... cross was raised, " In memory of Colonel Kenneth Douglas Mackenzie, C.B., who served for forty-two ...

Vol. 1  p. 80 (Rel. 0.47)

Edinburgh Castle. 44
old one with France. So their young queen was
betrothed to the Dauphin, and 6,000 French
auxiliaries came to strengthen the power of Mary
of Guise, widow of James V., who was appointed
Regent during the minority of her infant daughter.
During the year 1545-6, the Castle was for a brief
period the scene of George Wishart’s captivity.
Mary of Guise was imprudent, and disgusted the
haughty nobles by bestowing all places of trust
upon Frenchmen, and their military insolence soon
roused the rage of the people, who were at all
sword in hand, and the ports closed upon them.
and well guarded.
On March 28, 1559, Mary of Guise, with a
sorely dinhished court, took up her residence in
the fortress ; she was received with every respect
by Lord Erskine, who, as the holder of the Queen’s
garrison, was strictly neutral between the contending
parties. The Reformers were now in arms with
the English auxiliaries, so the French, who had
waged war through all Fife and the Lothians, were
compelled to keep within the ramparts of Leith,
times impatient of restraint. Thus fierce brawls
ensued, and one of these occurred in the city in
1554, between an armourer and a French soldier ;
a quarrel having arisen concerning some repairs on
the wheel-lock of an arquebuse, the latter, by one
blow of his dagger, struck the former dead in his
own shop. The craftsmen flew to arms; the
soldier was joined and rescued by his countrymen ;
and a desperate conflict ensued with swords, pikes,
and Jedwood axes. Sir James Hamilton of Sbnehouse,
who was now Provost of the city as well as
governor of the Castle, marched at once to aid the
citizens. He was slain in the m2Z8e1 and left lyinz
on the causeway, together with his son James and
the operations against which the fair Regent, though
labouring under a mortal illness, which the cares of
state had aggravated, watched daily from the summit
of David’s Tower. Her illness, a virulent dropsical
affection, increased. She did not live to see the
fall of Leith, but died on the 10th of June, 1560.
Her death-bed was peaceful and affecting, and by
her own desire she was attended by Knox’s particular
friend, John Willox, an active preacher of
the Reformation. Around her bed she called the
* Pinkerton is of opinion that this painting was a species of satire
directed at the intrigues of the persons depicted. The figurt behind
the Queen is believed to be that of a Scots Guard ; and the butterfly,
inkstand, dice, and other minute accessories, are all rupposed to have a
significance that would be re3dily understood at the time when the ... Castle. 44 old one with France. So their young queen was betrothed to the Dauphin, and 6,000 ...

Vol. 1  p. 44 (Rel. 0.46)

The Castle Hill.] THE DUKE OF GORDON’S HOUSE. 89
ter of the Duke of Norfolk and wife of Duke
George, who SO gallantly defended the Castle
against the troops of William of Orange; during
the lifetime of the duke she retired to a Belgian
convent, but afterwards returned to the old mansion
in Edinburgh, where she frequently resided till
her death, which took place at the abbey in 1732,
life, destroyed utterly the ancient Gothic fireplace,
which was very beautiful in its design.
This house is mentioned in the “Diurnal of
Occurrents” as being, in 1570, the residence of
~ Patrick Edgar; and after it passed from the Gordons
it was possessed by the family of Newbyth,
who resided in it for several generations, and
ALLAA RAMSAY’S HOUSE.
sixteen years after that of the duke at Leith.
The internal fittings of the mansion are in many
respects unchanged since its occupation by the
duchess. It is wood-panelled throughout, and
one large room which overlooks the Esplanade. is
decorated with elaborate carvings, and with a large
painting over the mantelpiece the production of
Norrie, a famous housedecorator of the eighteenth
century, whose genius for landscapes entitles him
to a place among Scottish painters. An explosion
of gunpowder which took place in the basement
of the house, in 1811, attended with serious loss of
12
therein, on the 6th December, 1757, was born
the gallant Sir David Baird, Bart., the hero of
Seringapatam and conqueror of Tippoo Saib ; and
therein he was educated and brought up. Returning
years after, he visited the place of his birth,
which had long since passed into other hands.
Chambers relates that the individual then occupying
the house received the veteran hero with great
respect, and, after showing him through it, ushered
him into the little garden behind, where some boys
were engaged in mischievously throwing cabbage
stalks at the chimneys of the Grassmarket. On ... Castle Hill.] THE DUKE OF GORDON’S HOUSE. 89 ter of the Duke of Norfolk and wife of Duke George, who SO ...

Vol. 1  p. 89 (Rel. 0.46)

GNsmarket.1 THE GAELIC CHAPEL. 235
target, andnogentlemantookthe road without pistols
in his holsters, and was the chief place for carriers
putting up in the days when all the country traffic
was conducted by their carts or waggons. In 1788
fortysix carriers arrived weekly in the Grassmarket,
and this number increased to ninety-six in 1810.
In those days the Lanark coach started fiom
George Cuddie’s stables there, every Friday and
Tuesday at 7 am. ; the Linlithgow and Falkirk
flies at 4 every afternoon, ‘( Sundays excepted ; ”
and the Peebles coach from “ Francis M‘Kay’s,
vintner, White Hart Inn,” thrice weekly, at g in
the morning.
Some bloodshed occurred in the Castle Wynd
in 1577. When Morton’s administration became
so odious as Regent that it was resolved to deprive
him of his power, his natural son, George Douglas
of Parkhead, held the Castle of which he was
governor, and the magistrates resolved to cut off
all supplies from him. At 5 o’clock on the 17th
March their guards discovered two carriages of
provisions for the Castle, which were seized at
the foot of the Wynd. This being seen by Parkhead’s
garrison, a sally was made, and a combat
ensued, in which three citizens were killed and six
wounded, but only one soldier was slain, while sixteen
others pushed the carriages up the steep slope.
The townsmen, greatly incensed by the injury,”
says Moyse, ‘‘ that same night cast trenches beside
Peter Edgafs house for enclosing of the Castle.”
Latterly the closes on the north side of the
Market terminated on the rough uncultured slope
of the Castle Hill; but in the time of Gordon of
Rothiemay a belt of pretty gardens had been there
from the west fiank of the city wall to the Castle
Wynd, where a massive fragment of the wall of
1450 remained till the formation of Johnstone
Terrace. On the west side of the Castle Wynd
is an old house, having a door only three feet
three inches wide, inscribed:
BLESSIT. BE. GOD. FOR. AL. HIS. GIFTIS.
16. 163 7. 10.
The double date probably indicated arenewal of
the edifice.
The first Gaelic chapel in Edinburgh stood in
the steep sloping alley named the Castle Wynd.
Such an edifice had long been required in the
Edinburgh of those days, when such a vast number
of Highlanders resorted thither as chairmen, porters,
water-carriers, city guardsmen, soldiers of the
Castle Company, servants and day-labourers, and
when Irish immigration was completely unknown.
These people in their ignorance of Lowland Scottish
were long deprived of the benefit of religious
instruction, which was a source of regret to themselves
and of evil to society.
Hence proposals were made by Mr. Williarn
Dicksos, a dyer of the city, for building a chapel
wherein the poor Highlanders might receive religious
instruction in their own language; the contributions
of the benevolent flowed rapidly in; the
edifice was begun in 1767 and opened in 1769,
upon .a piece of ground bought by the philanthropic
William Dickson, who disposed of it to the Society
for the Propagation of Christian Knowledge. The
church cost A700, of which LIOO was given by
the Writers to the Signet.
It was soon after enlarged to hold about 1,100
hearers. The minister was elected by the subscribers.
His salary was then only LIOO per
annum, ‘and he was, of course, in communion with
the Church- of Scotland, when such things as the
repentance stool and public censure did not
become thing of the past until 1780. “Since the
chapel was erected,” says Kincaid, “the Highlanders
have been punctual in their attendance on
divine worship, and have discovered the greatest
sincerity in their devotions. Chiefly owing to the
bad crops for some years past in the Highlands,
the last peace, and the great improvements Carrying
on in this city, the number of Highlanders has of late
increased so much that the chapel in its present
situation cannot contain them. Last Martinmas,
above 300 applied for seats who could not be
accommodated, and who cannot be edified in the
English language.”
The first pastor here was the Rev. Joseph
Robertson MacGregor, a native of Perthshire, who
was a licentiate of the Church of England before
he joined that of Scotland., “The last levies of
the Highland regiments,” says Kincaid, ‘‘ were
much indebted to this house, for about a third of
its number have, this last and preceding wars,
risqued (xi.) their lives for their king and country ;
and no other church in Britain, without the aid or
countenance of Government, contains so many
disbanded soldiers.”
Mr. MacGregor was known by his mother‘s
name of Robertson, assumed in consequence of
the proscription of his clan and name ; but, on the
repeal of the infamous statute against it, in 1787,
on the day it expired he attired himself in a fill
suit of the MacGregor tartan, and walked conspicuously
about the city.
The Celtic congregation continued to meet 51
the Castle Wynd till 1815, when its number had
so much increased that a new church was built for
them in another quarter of the city.
The Plainstanes Close, with Jatnieson’s, Beattie’s,
s
* ... THE GAELIC CHAPEL. 235 target, andnogentlemantookthe road without pistols in his holsters, and was ...

Vol. 4  p. 235 (Rel. 0.46)

OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Corstrophinc
- ~- I
CRAIGCROOK IN THE PRESENT DAY.
than doubled all the specie circulating in France,
when it was hoarded up, or sent out of the country.
Thus severe edicts were published, threatening with
dire punishment all who were in possession of Azo
of specie-edicts that increased the embarrassments
of the nation. Cash payments were stopped at the
bank, and its notes were declared to be of no value
after the 1st November, 1720. Law’s influence was
lost, his life in danger from hordes of beggared and
infuriated people. He fled from the scenes of his
splendour and disgrace, and after wandering through
various countries, died in poverty at Venice on the
zist of March, 1729. Protected by the Duchess of
Bourbon, William, a brother of the luckless comptroller,
born in Lauriston Castle, became in time a
Mardchal de Camp in France, where his descendants
have acquitted themselves with honour in
many departments of the State.
C H A P T E R XI.
CORSTORPHINE.
hrstorphine-Suppd Origin of the Name-The Hill-James VI. hunting there-The Cross-The Spa-The Dicks of Braid and Corstorphine--“
Corstorpliine Cream”-Convalt.scent House-A Wraith-The Original Chapel-The Collegiate Church-Its Provosts-Its Old
Tombs-The Castle and Loch of Corstorphine-The Forrester Family.
CORSTORPHINE, with its hill, village, and ancient
church, is one of the most interesting districts of
Edinburgh, to which it is now nearly joined by lines
of villas and gas lamps. Anciently it was called
Crosstorphyn, and the name has proved a puzzle to
antiquarians, who have had sonie strange theories
on the subject of its origin.
By some it is thought to have obtained its name
from the circumstance of a golden cross-Croix
d’orjn-having been presented to the church by
a French noble, and hence Corstorphine; and
an obscure tradition of some such cross did once
exist. According to others, the name signified
‘‘ the milk-house under the hill,’’ a wild idea in ... AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Corstrophinc - ~- I CRAIGCROOK IN THE PRESENT DAY. than doubled all the specie ...

Vol. 5  p. 112 (Rel. 0.45)

THE GUISE PALACE. 93 The Castle Hill.]
queen’s Deid-room, where the individuals of the
royal establishment were kept between their death
and burial. In 1828 there was found walled up
in the oratory an infantine head and hand in wax,
being all that remained of a bambina, or figure of
the child Jesus, and now preserved by the Society
of Antiquaries. The edifice had many windows
on the northern side, and from these a fine view
spent her youth in the proud halls of the Guises
in Picardy, and had beell the spouse of a Longueville,
was here content to live-in a close in
Edinburgh! In these obscurities, too, was a
government conducted, which had to struggle with
Knox, Glencairn, James Stewart, Morton, and
many other powerfd men, backed by a popular
sentiment which never fails to triumph. It was
DUKE OF GORDO~’S HOUSE, BLAIR’S CLOSE, CASTLE HILL.
must have been commanded of the gardens in
the immediate foreground, sloping downward to
the loch, the opposite bank, with its farm-houses,
the Firth of Forth, and Fifeshire. ‘‘ It was interesting,”
says the author of “ Traditions of Edinburgh,”
“to wander through the dusky mazes of
this ancient building, and reflect that they had
been occupied three centuries. ago by a sovereign
princess, and of the most illustrious lineage. Here
was a substantial monument of the connection
between Scotland and France. She, whose ancestors
owned Lorraine as a sovereignty, who had
the misfortune of Mary (of Guise) to be placed in
a position to resist the Reformation. Her own
character deserved that she should have stood in
a more agreeable relation to what Scotland now
venerates, for she was mild and just, and sincerely
anxious for the welfare of her adopted country. It
is also proper to remember on the present occasion,
that in her Court she maintained a decent gravity,
nor would she tolerate any licentious practices
therein. Her maids of honour were always busied
in commendable exercises, she herself being an
examplc to them in virtue, piety, and modesty, ... GUISE PALACE. 93 The Castle Hill.] queen’s Deid-room, where the individuals of the royal establishment were ...

Vol. 1  p. 93 (Rel. 0.45)

for, a matrimonial alliance having been concluded
between Ermengarde de Beaumont (cousin of
Henry) and King VJilliam, the Castle was thriftily
given up as part of her dowry, after having had an
English garrison for nearly twelve years.
Alexander II., their son, convened his first
parliament in Edinburgh in 1215. Alexander III.,
son of the preceding, having been betrothed to
Margaret daughter of Henry 111. of England
nine years before their nuptials were celebrated
at York in 1242, the queen, according to Amot,
had Edinburgh Castle appointed as her residence;
but it would seem to have been more
of a stronghold than a palace, as she complained
to her father that it was a ‘‘ sad and solitary place,
without verdure, and, by reason of its vicinity to
the sea, unwholesome;” and “that she was not
permitted to make excursions through the kingdom,
nor to choose her female attendants.” She was in
her sixteenth year.
Walter Earl of Menteith was at this time
governor of the fortress, and all the offices of the
city and of the nation itself were in the hands of
his powerful family. Many Englishmen of rank accompanied
the young queen-consort, and between
these southern intruders and the jealous Scottish
nobles there soon arose disputes that were both
hot and bitter. As usual, the kingdom was rent
into two powerful factions-one secretly favouring
Henry, who artfully wished to have Scotland under
his own dominion; another headed by Walter
Comyn, John de Baliol, and others, who kept
possession of Edinburgh, and with it the persons
of the young monarch and his bride. These
patriotically resisted the ambitious attempts of the
King of England, whose emissaries, 0; being joined
by the Earls of Carrick, Dunbar, and Strathearn,
and Alan Dureward, High Justiciary, while theiI
rivals were preparing to hold a parliament at
Stirling, took the Castle of Edinburgh by surprise,
and liberated the royal pair, who were triumphantly
conducted to a magnificent bridal chamber, and
afterwards had an interview with Henry at Wark,
in Northumberland.
During the remainder of the long and prosperous
reign of Alexander 111. the fortress continued to
be the chief place of the royal residence, and foI
holding his courts for the transaction of judicial
affairs, and much of the public business is said tc
have been transacted in St. Maxgaret’s chamber.
In 1278 William of Kinghorn was governor;
and about this period the Castle was repaired and
strengthened. It was then the safe deposit of the
principal records and the regalia of the kingdom.
And now we approach the darkest and bloodiesl
.
portion of the Scottish annals ; when on the death
of the Maid of Norway (the little Queen Margaret)
came the contested succession to the crown between
Bruce, Baliol, and others ; and an opportunity was
given to Edward I. of England of advancing a
claim to the Scottish crown as absurd as it was
baseless, but which that ferocious prince prosecuted
to the last hour of his life with unexampled barbarity
and treachery.
On the 11th of June, 1291, the Castle‘of Edinburgh
and all the strongholds in the Lowlands were
unwisely and unwarily put into the hands of the
crafty Plantagenet by the grasping and numerous
claimants, on the ridiculous pretence that the subject
in dispute should be placed in the power of
the umpire ; and the governors of the various fortresses,
on finding that the four nobles who had been
appointed .guardians of the realm till the dispute
was adjusted had basely abandoned Scotland to
her fate, they, too, quietly gave up their trusts to
Edward, who (according to Prynne’s “ History ”)
appointed Sir Radulf Basset de Drayton governor
of Edinburgh Castle, with a garrison of English
soldiers. According to Holinshed he personally
took this Castle after a fifteen days’ siege with his
warlike engines.
On the vigil of St. Bartholomew a list was
drawn up of the contents of the Treasury in the
Castra de Edrir6ut-g; and among other religious
regalia we find mentioned the Black Rood of
Scotland, which St. Margaret venerated so much. .
By Edward’s order some of the records were left
in the Castle under the care of Basset, but all the
most valuable documents were removed to England,
where those that showed too clearly the
ancient independence of Scotland were carefully
destroyed, or tampered with, and others were left
to moulder in the Tower of London.
On the 8th of July, 1292, we find Edward again
at Edinburgh, where, as self-styled Lord Paramount,
he received within the chapel of St. Margaret the
enforced oath of fealty from Adam, Abbot of Holyrood;
John, Abbot of Newbattle ; Sir Brim le Jay,
Preceptor of the Scottish Templars; the Prior of
St. John of Jerusalem ; and Christina, Prioress of
Emanuel, in Stirlingshire.
Bnice having refused to accept a crown shorn
of its rank, Edward declared in favour of the
pitiful Baliol, after which orders were issued to
the captains of the Scottish castles to deliver
them up to John, King of Scotland. Shame at last
filled the heart of the latter; he took the field, and
lost the battle of Dunbar. Edward, reinforced by
fifteen thousand Welsh and a horde of Scottish
traitors, appeared before Edinburgh Castle; the ... a matrimonial alliance having been concluded between Ermengarde de Beaumont (cousin of Henry) and King ...

Vol. 1  p. 23 (Rel. 0.44)

of all human shape at the foot of the cliff. James V,
was struck with remorse on hearing‘ bll this terrible
story, He released the friar ; but, singular to say,
William Lyon was merely banished the kingdom ;
while a man named Mackie, by whom the alleged
poison was said to be prepared, was shorn of his
ears.+
On thd last day of February, 1539, Thomas
Forret, Vicar of Dollar, John Keillor and John
Beveridge, two black-friars, Duncan Simpson a
priest, and a gentleman named Robert Forrester,
were all burned together on the Castle Hill on a
charge of heresy; and it is melancholy to know that
a king so good and so humane as James Vb was a
spectator of this inhuman persecution for religion,
and that he came all the way from Linlithgow
Palace to witness it, whither he returned on the
2nd of March. It is probable that he viewed it
from the Castle walls.
Again and again has the same place been the
scene of those revolting executions for sorcery
which disgraced the legal annals of Scotland.
There, in 1570, Bessie Dunlop ‘‘ was worried ” at
the stake for simply practising as a “wise woman”
in curing diseases and recovering stolen goods.
Several others perished in 1590-1 ; among others,
Euphemie M‘Calzean, for consorting with the devil,
abjuring her baptism, making waxen pictures to be
enchanted, raismg zi storm to drown Anne of
Denmark on her way to Scotland, and so f0rth.f
In 1600 Isabel Young was “woryt at a stake I’
for laying sickness on various persons, “and
thereafter burnt to ashes on the Castle Hill.’’#
Eight years after, James Reid, a noted sorcerer,
perished in the same place, charged with practising
healing by the black art, “whilk craft,’’
says one authority, ‘‘ he learned frae the devil, his
master, in- Binnie Craigs and Corstorphine, where
he met with him and consulted with him diveE
tymes, whiles in the likeness of a man, whiles in
the likeness of a horse.” Moreover, he had tried
to destroy the crops of David Liberton by putting
a piece of enchanted flesh under his mill door,
and to destroy David bodily by making a picturc
of him in walc and mel$ng it before a fire, an
ancient sdperstition-common to the Westerr
Isles and in some parts of Rajpootana to thi:
day. So great was the horror these crimes excited,
that he was taken direct from the court to the
stake. During the ten years of the Commonwealtt
executions on this spot occurred with appalling
frequency.$ On the 15th October, 1656, seven
~
Tytler, “ Criminal Trials,” &c. &c. $ “ Diurnal of Occumnts.’
$ spot.iwod, “ Mmllany.” 0 Pitcairn
xlprits were executed at once, two of whom were
iurned ; and on the 9th March, 1659, “ there were,”
iays Nicoll, “fyve wemen, witches, brint on the
:astell Hill, all of them confessand their covenantng
with Satan, sum of thame renunceand. thair
iaptisme, and all of them oft tymes dancing with
;he devell.”
During the reign of Charles‘ I., when the Earl of
Stirling obtained permission to colonise Nova
Scotia, and to sell baronetcies to some zoo supposed
colonists, with power of pit and gallows over
their lands, the difficulty of enfeoffing them in
possessions so distant was overcome by a royal
mandate, converting the soil of the Castle Hill for
the time being into that of Nova Scotia; and
>etween 1625 and 1649 sixty-four of these baronets
took seisin before the archway of the Spur.
When the latter was fairly removed the hill
became the favourite promenade of the citizens ;
md in June, 1709, we find it acknowledged by the
town council, that the Lord’s Day (‘ is profaned by
people standing in the streets, and vaguing (sic) to
ields, gardens, and the Castle Hill.” Denounce
ill these as they might, human nature never could
Je altogether kept off the Castle Hill ; and in old
imes even the most respectable people promenaded
:here in multitudes between morning and evening
jervice. In the old song entitled “The Young
Laud and Edinburgh Katie,” to which Allan
Ramsay added some verses, the former addresses
i s mistress :7
“ Wat ye wha I met yestreen,
Coming doon the street, my jo ?
FG bonny, braw, and sweet, my jo I ’ My dear,’ quo I, ‘ thanks to the night,
That never wished a lover ill,
Since ye’re out 0’ your mother’s sight,
Let’s tak’ a walk up to the HX.’ ”
M y mistress in her tartan screen,
In IS58 there ensued a dispute between the
magistrates of Edinburgh and the Crown as to the
proprietary of the Castle Hill and Esplanade. The
former asserted their right to the whole ground
claimed by the board of ordnance, acknowledging
no other boundary to the possessions of the former
than the ramparts of the Castle. This extensive
claim they made in virtue of the rights conferred
upon them by the golden charter of James VI.
in 1603, wherein they were gifted with all and
whole, the loch called the North Loch, lands,
pools, and marisches thereof, the north and south
banks and braes situated on the west of the burgh,
near the Castle of Edinburgh, on both sides of the
Castle from the public highway, and that part of ... all human shape at the foot of the cliff. James V, was struck with remorse on hearing‘ bll this ...

Vol. 1  p. 86 (Rel. 0.44)

Land, according to P. Williamson’s Directory for
1784.
Amid the tumultuom excitement of the Highlanders
entering the city with their trophies, they
repeatedly fired their muskets in the air. One
being loaded with ball, the latter grazed the forehead
of Miss Nairne, a young Jacobite lady, who
was waving her handkerchief from a balcony in
the High Street. “Thank God!” exclaimed the
THE CASTLE ROAD. (From n Drawing by ranm Drummona, R.S.A.)
the Weigh-house, where the Highland pcket-at
whom was fired the 32 lb. cannon ball still shown,
and referred to in an early chapter-occupied the
residence of a fugitive, the Rev. George Logan, a
popular preacher, famous controversialist, and
author of several learned treatises.
The noise made by the Highlanders in the city,
the din of so many pipes in the lofty streets, and
the acclamations of the Jacobites, had such an
1
“that this accident has happened to me, whose
true principles are known. Had it befallen a
Whig, they would have said it was done on purpose.”
*
This victory annihilated the only regular army
in the kingdom, and made Charles master of it all,
with the exception of the castles of Edinburgh and
Stirling, and a few petty Higliland forts. It caused
the greatest panic in London, and a serious run
upon the Bank of England.
The fugitives who reached the Castle numbered
105. To close it up, guards were now placed at
all the avenues. The strongest of these was near
* Note to chap LI., “ Waverley.”
that he called a council of war, at which he urged
upon the officers, “that as the fortress was indefensible,
with a garrison so weak, terms for capitulating
to the Scottish prince should at once be
entered into.”
To this proposal every officer present assented,
and it would have been adopted, had not General
Preston, the man whom the authorities had just
superseded, demanded to be heard. Stern,
grim, and tottering under wounds won in King
William’s wars, and inspired by genuine hatred of
the House of Stuart, he declared that if such a
measure was adopted he would resign his cornmission
as a disgrace to him. On this, Guest
handed over to him the command of the fortress, ... according to P. Williamson’s Directory for 1784. Amid the tumultuom excitement of the Highlanders entering ...

Vol. 2  p. 328 (Rel. 0.43)

330 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. 1174S- .
to England or theremote districts of Scotland. The
old Chevalier was proclaimed as James VIII., in
all large towns where, and particularly in the capital,
the concealed friends of his cause avowed their
sentiments, and joined the old Jacobites in drinking
deep potations to a prince, who, as his organ
the Caledonian Mercury, had it, ‘‘ could eat a dry
crust, sleep on pease straw, take his dinner in four
minutes, and win a battle in five.” The ladies
especially, by their enthusiasm, contributed not a
little to produce great action in his favour. “All
Jacobites,” wrote President Forbes at this time, to
Sir Andrew Mitchell, “ how prudent soever, became
mad ; all doubtful people became Jacobites; all
bankrupts became heroes, and talked of nothing but
hereditary rights and victory. And what was more
grievous to men of gallantry-and, if you will
believe me, much more mischievous to the public
-all the fine ladies, if you will except one or two,
became passionately fond of the young adventurer,
and used all their arts and industry for him in the
most temperate manner.”
Meanwhile the gamson in the Castle obtained
from certain Whig friends a supply of provisions,
which, by ropes, they drew up in barrels and baskets,
on the west side of the rock ; but neither the Highlanders
nor the citizens suffered any molestation
till the night of the 25th September, when the
veteran Preston, on going his rounds in a wheelchair,
being alarmed by a sound like that of goats
scrambling among the rocks, he declared it to be a
Highland escalade, and opened a fire of musketry
and cannon from Drury‘s battery, beating down
several houses in the West Port.
In consequence of this the prince strengthened
his picket at the Weigh-house, to prevent all intercourse
with the fortress, upon which Preston
wrote to Provost Stewart, intimating that unless
free communication was permitted he would
open- a heavy cannonade. On this, the town
council represented to the prince the danger in
which the city stood. “ Gentlemen,” he replied,
<‘I ani equally concerned and surprised at the
barbarity of those who would bring distress upon
the city for what its inhabitants have not the powei
to prevent; but if, out of compassion, I should
Temove my guards from the Castle, you might with
equal reason require me to abandon the city.”
He also assured them that the injuries of the
citizens would be repaid out of the estates of the
0fficers.h the Castle, “and that reprisals would be
made upon all who were known abettors of the
German government.” General Preston being
further informed that his brother’s house at Valleyfield
would be destroyed, he replied that in that
case he would cause the war-ships in the Forth to
burn down Wemyss Castle, the seat of Lord Elcho’s
father; but after some altercation with the council,
the grim veteran agreed to suspend hostilities till he
received fresh orders from London. Next day, however,
owing to some misunderstanding, the Highland
picket fired on certain persons who were conveying
provisions into the Castle, the guns of which opened
on the Weigh-house, killing and wounding several
in the streets. Charles retaliated by enforcing a
strict blockade ; and, in revenge, Preston’s gamson
fired on every Highlander that came in sight.
On this, by order of the Adjutant-General, Lord
George Murray, the picket was removed to the
north side of the High Street ; but, as it was found
inconvenient to relieve the post by corps, the gallant
Lochiel undertook the entire blockade with his
Camerons, who for that purpose were placed in the
Parliament House.
Several loose characters, among whom was
Daddie Ratcliff-who occupies so prominent a
post in Scott’s “Heart of Midlothian ”-dressed as
Highlanders, committed some outrages and robberies
; but all were captured and shot, chiefly by
Perth’s Regiment, on Leith Links.
Charles contemplated the summons of a Scottish
Parliament, but contented himself with denouncing,
on the 3rd of October, ‘‘ the pretended Parliament
summoned by the Elector of Hanover at Westminster,”
and declaring it treason for the Scots to attend.
On the preceding day the following proclamation
was issued from Holyrood.
“CHARLES P. R. being resolved that no communication
‘shall be open between the Castle and
town of Edinburgh during our residence in the
capital, and to prevent the bad effects of reciprocal
firing, from thence and from our troops, whereby
the houses and inhabitants of our city may
innocently suffer, we hereby make public notice,
that none shall dare, without a special pass, signed
by our secretary, upon pain of death, either resort
to, or come from the said Castle, upon any pretence
whatsoever ; with certification of any persons convicted
of having had such intercourse, after this our
proclamation shall immediately be carried to execution.
Given at our palace of Holyrood House,
2nd Oct., 1745.
Another guard was posted the next day at the
West Church, while the Camerons began to form
a trench and breastwork below the reservoir
across the Castle Hill, but were compelled to retire
under a fire of cannon from the Half-moon, and
musketry from the iite-du@nf, with the loss of
some killed and wounded. Among the former was
me officer. Another picket was now placed at
(Signed) J. MURRAY.” ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. 1174S- . to England or theremote districts of Scotland. The old Chevalier was ...

Vol. 2  p. 330 (Rel. 0.42)

78 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Edinburgh Castle.
entrance to the apartment in which her daughter
was delivered of James VI, It was formerly part
of a large room which, before being partitioned,
measured 30 by 25 feet. On the I 1 th of February,
1567, after the murder of Darnley, Mary retired
to this apartment, where she had the walls hung
with black, and remained in strict seclusion until
after the funeral. Killigrew, who came from
Elizabeth with letters of condolence, on his introduction
found (( tbe Queen’s Majesty in a
dark chamber, so that he could not see her
face, but by her words she seemed very doleful.”
In 1849, an antique iron chisel, spear-shaped,
was found in the fireplace of this apartment,
which was long used as a canteen for the soldiers,
but has now been renovated, though in a rude
and inelegant form.
Below the grand hall are a double tier of
strongly-vaulted dungeons, entered by a passage
from the west, and secured by an intricate arrangement,
of iron gates and massive chains. In one
of these Kirkaldy of Grange buried his brother
David Melville. The small loophole that admits
light into each of these huge vaults, whose
origin is lost in the mists of antiquity, is strongly
secured by three ranges of iron bars. Within these
drear abodes have captives of all kinds pined, and
latterly the French prisoners, forty of whom slept
in each. In some are still the wooden frames to
which their hammocks were slung. Under Queen
Mary’s room there is one dungeon excavated out
of the solid rock, and having, as we have said, an
iron staple in its wall to which the prisoner was
chained.
The north side of the quadrangle consists now
of an uninteresting block of barracks, erected about
the middle of the eighteenth century, and altered,
but scarcely improved, in 1860-2, by the Royal Engineers
and Mr. Charles W. Billings. It occupies the
site, and was built from the materials, of what was
once a church of vast dimensions and unknown antiquity,
but the great western gable of which was long
ago a conspicuous feature above the eastern curtain
wall. By Maitland it is described as ((a very long
and large ancient church, which from its spacious
dimensions I imagine that it was not only built for
the use of the garrison, but for the service of the
neighbouring hinabitants before St. Giles’s church
was erected for their accommodation.” Its great
font, and many beautifully carved stones were found
built into the barrack wall during recent alterations.
It is supposed to have been a church erected after
the death of the pious Queen Margaret, and dedicated
to her, as it is mentioned by David I. in his
Holyrood charter as “the church of the Castle
of Edinburgh,” and is again confirmed as such in the
charter of Alexander 111. and several Papal bulls,
and the ‘( paroche kirk within the said Castell,” is
distinctly referred to by the Presbytery of Edinburgh
in 1595.” In 1753 it was divided into three
storeys, and filled with tents, cannon, and other munitions
of war.
A winding stair descends from the new barracks
to the butts, where the rock is defended
by the western wall and Bute’s Battery, near which,
at an angle, a turret, named the Queen’s Post,
occupies the site of St. Margaret’s Tower. Fifty
feet below the level of the rock is another guardhouse
and one of the draw-wells poisoned by the
Englishin 1572. Kear it is the ancient posterngate,
where Dundee held his parley with the Duke of
Gordon in 1688, and through which, perhaps, St.
Margaret’s body was borne in 1093.
From thence there is a sudden ascent by steps,
behind the banquette of the bastions and near
the principal, magazine, to Mylne’s Mount, where
there is another grate for a bale-fire to alarm Fife,
Stirling, and the north. The fortifications are
irregular, furnished throughout with strong stone
turrets, and prepared for mounting about sixty
pieces of cannon. Two door-lintels covered with
curious sculptures are still preserved : one over the
entrance to the ordnance office represents Mons
Meg and other ancient cannon ; the other a cannoneer
of the sixteenth century, in complete armour,
in the act of loading a small culverin.
The Castle farm is said to have been the ancient
village of Broughton, which St. David granted to
the monks of Holyrood ; the Castle gardens we
have already referred to; and to the barns, stables,
and lists attached to it, we shall have occasion to
refer elsewhere.
The Castle company was a corps of Scottish
soldiers raised in January 1661, and formed a
permanent part of the garrison till 1818, when,
with the ancient band of Mary of Guise, which
garrisoned the Castle of Stirling, they were incorporated
in cne of the thirteen veteran battalions
emjodied in that year. The Castle being within
the abrogated parish of Holyrood, has a burial-place
for its garrison in the Canongate churchyard ; but
dead have been buried within the walls frequently
during sieges and blockades, as in 1745, when nineteen
soldiers and three women were interred on the
summit of the rock.
The Castle is capable of containing 3,000 infantry;
but the accommodation for troops is greatly ;
neglected by Government, and the barracks have
Wodmw’s ‘ I Miscellany.” ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Edinburgh Castle. entrance to the apartment in which her daughter was delivered of ...

Vol. 1  p. 78 (Rel. 0.42)

CHobd. - OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH.
- 52 -
set at liberty ; but on the suppression of the order
throughout Scotland, their vast possessions were
given to their rivals, the Knights of St. John at
Torphichen.
In 1337, about the time that John 11. was abbot,
sanctuary was given in Holyrood church to a remarkable
fugitive from the Castle of Edinburgh,
which at that time was held by an English garrison
under Thomas Knyton. In one of the forays made
by him in search of supplies, he had been guided
adding, “that many brethren of the Temple, being
. common people, indifferently absolve excornrnunicated
persons, saying that they derived power from
their lord the Supreme Pontiff;” and also, ‘‘ that
the chapters were held so secretly that none save
a Templar ever had access to them.”
So ended the inquisition at Holyrood, ((which
could not be made more solemn on account of the
weapon that lay near, and so severe was the How
that his blood bespattered the floor. He affected
to bear with this new outrage, and nursing his
wrath, quitted the fortress; but next day, when
Thomas Knyton rode through the gate into the
city with a few attendants, Prendergast rushed
from a place of concealment-probably a Close
head-and passing a long sword through his heart,
dashed him a corpse on the causeway.
He then leaped on Knyton’s horse, and spurring
to a rich booty near Calder Muir by a soldier
named Robert Prendergast, an adherent of Baliol,
who served under the English banner. Upon
returning to the castle, instead of being rewarded,
as he expected, the Scottish traitor, at dinner in
the hall, was placed among the servingmen and
below the salt.
Filled with rage and mortification, he remained
~. .
GROUND PIAN OF THE CHAPEL ROYAL OF HOLYROOD HOUSE.
(From air Engraving irr thx History ofthe A&y,guSlirhed h 1821.)
A, Gmt West Entrance; 6, North Door; C C, Doon from South Aisle to Clo‘sters. now walled up; D, Great East Window; E, Stair tm
Rood-loft ; F, Door to the Palace, shut up ; G. Remaining Pillars, north side: H, Screen-work in Stone. ... - OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. - 52 - set at liberty ; but on the suppression of the order throughout Scotland, ...

Vol. 3  p. 52 (Rel. 0.42)

castle Stratl CATHERINE SINCLAIR. 165
principal duty as clerk in court was to sit below
the bench, watch the progress of the suits, and
record the decisions orally pronounced, by reducing
them to technical shape.
Prior to living in No. 39 he would appear to
have lived for a time in ig South Castle Street
(1798-g), and in the preceding year to have taken
his bride to his lodging, 198 George Street.
In 1822 Lord Teignmouth visited Edinburgh,
and records in his (‘ Diary” that he dined here with
Sir Walter Scott, who on that occasion wore the
Highland dress, and was full of the preparations
for the forthcoming visit of George IV. To Lord
Teignmouth the dinner in all its features was a
novelty; and he wrote of it at the time as being
the most interesting at which he ever was present,
as ‘( it afforded a more complete exhibition of Highland
spirit and feelings than a tour of the country
might have done.”
Four years afterwards saw the melancholy change
in Sir Walter’s life and affairs, and from his ‘‘ Diary”
we can trace the influence of a darker species of
distress than mere loss of wealth could bring to a
noble spirit such as his. His darling grandson was
sinking apace at Brighton. The misfortunes
against which his manhood struggled with stem
energy were encountered by his affectionate wife
under the disadvantages of enfeebled health ; and
it would seem but too evident that mental pain and
mortification had a great share in hurrying Lady
Scott’s ailments to a fatal end.
He appears to have been much attached to the
house referred to, as the following extract from his
‘(Diarf’ shows:-(‘March 15, 1826.-This morning
I leave No. 39 Castle Street for the last time!
‘The cabin was convenient,’ and habit made it
agreeable to me. . . . So farewell poor No. 39 !
What a portion of my life has been spent there !
It has sheltered me from the prime of life to its
decline, and now I must bid good-bye to it.”
On that daythe family left Castle Street for Abbotsford,
and in Captain Basil Hall’s ‘( Diary” he records
how he came, by mistake, to 39 Castle Street, and
found the door-plate covered with rust, the windows
shuttered up, dusty and comfortless, and from the
side of one a board projected, with the ominous
words ‘( To Sell ” thereon. ‘( The stairs were unwashed,”
he continues, “and not a footmark told
of the ancient hospitality which reigned within,
In all nations with which I am acquainted the
fashionable world moves westward, in imitation,
perhaps, of the civilisation ; and, vice vend, those
persons who decline in fortune, which is mostly
equivalent to declining in fashion, shape their course
eastward. Accordingly, by involuntary impulse I
turned my head that way, and inquiring at the
clubs in Princes Street, learned that he now resided
in St. David Street, No. 6.”
On the occasion of the Scott Centenary in
1871 the house in Castle Street was decorated,
and thrown open to the public by its then tenant
for a time. It became the residence of Macvey
Napier, editor of the seventh edition of the
He died in 1847,
and his Life and Correspondence” was published
in 1879.
Early in the century, No. 49, at the corner of
Hill Street, was the residence of Ochterlony of
Guynd, in Forfarshire, a family of whom several
members have since those days settled in Russia,
and a descendant of one, Major-General Ochterlony,
fell in the service of the Emperor at Inkerman,
after bearing a flag of truce to the British
head-quarters.
Charlotte Street and Hope Street lie east and
west respectively ; but the former is chiefly rernarkr
able €or having at its foot on the north-west side a
monument, in the shape of a lofty and ornate
Eleanor cross, to the memory of Catherine Sinclair,
the authoress of (‘ Modem Accomplishments” and
many other works, She was born April 17th, 1800,
and died August 6th, 1864. Her sister Margaret,
one of the best known members of old Edinburgh
society, and one of the last survivors of the
Abbotsford circle, died on 4th August, 1879, in
London, in her eighty-seventh year. She had the
curious fortune of being the personal friend of Anne
Scott, Sir Walter’s daughter, and in her extreme youth
of being presented at Court bythe beautiful Duchess
of Gordon. Miss Margaret Sinclair was intimate
with the princesses of the old royal family of
(( Farmer George,” and retained to the last a multitude
of recollections of the Scottish world of two
generations ago.
Encyclopadia Britannic&” ... Stratl CATHERINE SINCLAIR. 165 principal duty as clerk in court was to sit below the bench, watch the ...

Vol. 3  p. 165 (Rel. 0.41)

" Edinburgh Castle, tome and tower,
God grant thou sinke for sinne,
An that even for the black dinner
Earle Douglas got therein."
This affair instead of pacifying the country only
led to ruin and civil strife. The Douglas took arms
under James IV., Duke of Touraine and seventh
Earl of Douglas and Angus, and for a long space the
city and neighbourhood were the scene of contest
and ravage by the opposite factions. The Chancellor
remained secure in the Castle, and, to be revenged
on Sir John Forrester, who had laid waste his lands
at Crichton in 1445, he issued forth with his
troopers and garrison, and gave to fire and sword
all the fertile estates of the Douglases and Forresters
westward of the city, including Blackness,
Abercorn, Strathbroc, aid Corstorphine ; and, with
other pillage, carrying off a famous breed of
Flanders mares, he returned to his eyry.
Douglas, who, to consolidate his power had
espoused his cousin the Fair Maid of Galloway,
adding thus her vast estates to his own, and had now,
as hereditary lieutenant-general of the kingdom,
obtained the custody of the young king, came to
Edinburgh with a vast force composed of the
Crown vassals and his own, and laid siege to the
Castle, which the Chancellor defended for nine
months, nor did he surrender even to a summons
sent in the king's name till he had first seciued
satisfactory terms for himself; whfle of his less
fortunate coadjutors, some only redeemed their
lives with their estates, and the others, including
three members of the Livingstone family, were
beheaded within its walls.
The details of this long siege are unknown, but
to render the investment more secure the Parliament,
which had begun its sittings at Perth, was
removed to Edinburgh on the 15th of July, 1446.
After all this, Earl Douglas visited Italy, and in
his absence during the jubilee at Rome in 1450,
Crichton contrived to regain the favour of James
II., who haviyg now the government in his own
hands, naturally beheld with dread the vast power
of the house of Touraine.
How Douglas perished under the king's dagger
in Stirling in 1452 is a matter of general history.
His rival died at a very old age, three years
afterwards, and was interred among his race in
the present noble church of Crichton, which he
founded.
Beneath the Castle ramparts the rising city was
now fast increasing; and in 1450, after the battle
of Sark, in which Douglas Earl of Ormond de.
feated the English with great slaughter, it was
deemed necessary to enclose the city by walls,
scarcely a trace of which now remains, except the
picturesque old ruin known as the Well-house
Tower, at the base of the Castle rock. They ran
along the southern declivity of the ridge on which
the most ancient parts of the town were built, and
after crossing the West Bow -then deemed the
grand entrance to Edinburgh-ran between the
High Street and the hollow, where the Cowgate
(which exhibited then but a few minor edifices) now
stands; they then crossed the main ridge at the
Nether Bow, and terminated at the east end of
the North Loch, which was then formed as a
defence on the north, and in the construction of
which the Royal Gardens were sacrificed. From
this line of defence the entire esplanade of the
Castle was excluded. " Within these ancient
limits," says Wilson, '' the Scottish capital must
have possessed peculiar means of defence-a city
set on a hill and guarded by the rocky fortress,
there watching high the least alarms; it only
wanted such ramparts, manned by its burgher
watch, to enable it to give protection to its princes
and to repel the' inroads of the southern invader.
'The important position which it now held may be
inferred from the investment in the following year
of Pntrick Cockburn of Newbigging (the Provost
of Edinburgh) in the Chancellor's office as governor
of the Castle, as well as his appointment, along
with other commissioners, after the great defeat of
the English at the battle of Sark, to treat for the
renewal of a truce." It seemed then to be always
'' truce " and never peace !
In the Parliament of 1455 we find Acts passed
for watching the fords of the Tweed, and the
erection of bale-fires to give alarm, by day and
night, of inroads from England, to warn Hume,
Haddington, Dunbar, Dalkeith, Eggerhope, and
Edinburgh Castle, thence to Stirling and the north
-arrangements which would bring all Scotland
under arms in two hours, as the same system did
at the time of the False Alarm in 1803. One
bale-he was a signal that the English were in
motion; two that they were advancing; four in a
row signified that they were in great strength. All
men in arms westward of Edinburgh were ta
muster there ; all eastward at Haddington ; and
every Englishman caught in Scotland was lawfully
the prisoner of whoever took him (Acts, 12th Pal.
James 11.). But the engendered hate and jealousy
of England wopld seem to have nearly reached its
culminating point when the 11th Parliament of
James VI., chap. 104, enacted, ungallantly, "that
no Scotsman marrie an Englishwoman without the
king's license under the Great Seal, under pain of
death and escheat of moveables." ... Edinburgh Castle, tome and tower, God grant thou sinke for sinne, An that even for the black dinner Earle ...

Vol. 1  p. 31 (Rel. 0.41)

$80 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Bmughtoa --
REMAINS OF THE VILLAGE OF OLD RROUGHTON, Isj2.
(From a Drawing by Gcorp W. Simson )
CHAPTER XXV.
THE VILLAGE AND BAKONY OF BROUGHTON.
Brouzhton-The Villaee and Baronv-The Loan-Brouehton first mentioned-Feudal Superiors-Wltches Burned-Leslie’s Head-quarters-
-Gordon of E1lor;‘s Children Murdered-Taken Rei Hand-Th
Churches erected in the Bounds of the Barony.
ACROSS the once well-tilled slope where now York
Place stands, a narrow and secluded way between
hedgerows, called the Loan of Broughton, led for
ages to the isolated village of that name, of which
but a few vestiges still remain.
In a mernoir of Robert Wallace, D.D., the eminent
author of the “Essay on the Numbers of
Mankind,” and other works, an original member of
the Rankenion Club-a literary society instituted
at Edinburgh in 1716-we are told, in the Scots
Magazine for 1809, that “he died 29th of July,
1771, at his cuzlntty lodgings in Broughton Loan,
in his 75th year.”
This baronial burgh, or petty town, about a
mile distant by the nearest road from the ancient
city, stood in hollow ground southward and eastward
from the line of London Street, and had its
own tolbooth and court-house, with several substantial
stone mansions and many thatched cot-
L‘olbooth of the Buigh-The Mmute Books-Free Burgesses-Modern
tages, in 1780, and a few of the former are still
surviving.
Bruchton, or Broughton, according to Maitland,
signified the Castle-town. If this place ever possessed
a fortalice or keep, from whence its name
seems to be derived, all vestiges of it have disappeared
long ago. It is said to have been connected
with the Castle of Edinburgh, and that from the
lands of Broughton the supplies for the garrison
came. But this explanation has been deemed by
some fanciful.
The earliest notice of Broughton is in the charter
of David I. to Holyrood, ciwa A.D. 1143-7,
wherein he grants to the monks, “Hereth, e2
Broctunam mm suis rectis a’iuisis,” &c. ; thus, with
its lands, it belonged to the Church till the Reforrnation,
when it was vested in the State. According
to the stent roll of the abbey, the Barony of
Broughton was most ample in extent,.and, among ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Bmughtoa -- REMAINS OF THE VILLAGE OF OLD RROUGHTON, Isj2. (From a Drawing by Gcorp ...

Vol. 3  p. 180 (Rel. 0.41)

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS . .
THE UNIVERSITY.-~~ontirpi~ce.
PAGE
The Kirk-of-Field . . . . . . . I
Rough Sketch of the Kirk.of.Field, February. 1567.
taken hastily for the English Court . . . 5
The Library of the Old University. as seen from the
south-east corner of the Quadrangle. looking North
The Lihrary of the Old University. as seen from the
south-western corner of the Quadrangle. looking
East . . . . . . . . ., 12
Part of the Buildings of the South side of thc Quad-
Laying the Foundation Stone of the New University.
9
rangle of the Old University . . . . 13
November 16. 1789 . . . . . . 17
The original Design for the East Front of the New
Building for the University of Edinburgh . . 20
Original Plan of the Principal Storey of the New
Building for the University of Edinburgh . . ZI
The Quadrangle. Edinburgh University . . . 25
The Library Hall. Edinburgh University . . . z8
The Bore-Stane . . . . . . . . . zg
Wright’s Houses and the Barclay Church. from Brnnts-
. . . . . . . field Links 32
TheAvenue. Bruntsfield Links . . . . . 33
Wrychtishousis. from the South-west . . . . 36
Merchiston Castle ; Napier Room ; Queen Mary’s Pear
Tree ; Drawing Room ; Entrance Gateway
Tu /;(cc pap 37
. . . Cillespie’s Hospital. from the East ’ 37
Christ Church. Morningside . 41
Braid Cottages. 1850 . . . . . . . 40
. . . .
The Hermitage . Braid ; Craig House ; Kitchen. Craig
House; Dining-room Craig House . . . 44
TheGrangeCernetery . . . . . . 45
OldTombat Warrender Park . . . . . 46
Warrender House ; St . Margaret’s Convent ; Ruins of
St . Roque’s Chapel ; Grange House. 1820 ; Draw- . . . ing-room in Orange House, 1882 . 48
Broadstairs House. Causawayside. 1880 . . . 52
Mr . Dullcan McLaren . . . . . .
Ruins of the Convent of St . Katharine. Sciennes.
north-west view. 1854 . . . . .
Interior of the Ruins of the Convent of St . Katharine.
Sciennes . 1854 . . . . . . .
Seal of the Convent of St . Katharine . . . .
Prestonfield House . . . . . . .
Old Houses . Echo Bank . . . . . .
Craigmillar Castle . . . . Tofarepage
Craigmillar Castle: The Hall ; The Keep; Queen
Mary’s Tree; South-west Tower ; The Chapel .
Peffer Mill House . . . . . . . .
Bell’s Mills Bridge . . . . . . .
The Dean House. 1832 . . . . . .
Watson’s, Orphans’. and Stewart’s Hospitals. from
Drumsheugh Grounds. 1859 . . . .
Views in the Dean Cemetery . . . . .
Randolph Cliff and Dean Bridge . Tofacepage
The Water of Leith Village . : . . .
The Water of Leith. 1825 . . . . . .
3 . Bernard’s Well. 1825 . . . . . .
The House where David Roberts was horn . . .
Fettes College. from the South-west . . . .
St . Stephen’s Church . :‘ . . . . . .
The Edinburgh Academy . . . . . .
Canonmills Loch and House. 1830 . . . .
Heriot’s Hill House . . . . . . .
Tanfield Hall . . . . . . . .
Pilrig House . . . . . . . .
Bonnington House ; Stewadfield ; Redbraes ; Silvermills
House ; Broughton Hall; Powder Hall ;
Canonmills House . . . . . .
View in Bonnington. 185 I . . . . . .
Warriston House . . . . . . .
The Royal Botanic Gardens: General View of the
Gardens ; The Arboretum ; Rock Garden ; Palm
PAGE
53
54
54
55
56 ’
57
58
60
6:
64
65
68
69
70
72
73
76
77
80
81
84
85
88
89
92
93
96
97
.Houses ; Class Room and Entrance to Museum . 100 ... OF ILLUSTRATIONS . . THE UNIVERSITY.-~~ontirpi~ce. PAGE The Kirk-of-Field . . . . . . . I Rough Sketch of ...

Vol. 6  p. 401 (Rel. 0.41)

59 -- Edinburgh Castle. THE EARL OF ARGYLE
which he received the sentence of death. His
guards in the Castle were doubled, while additional
troops were marched into the city to enforce order.
He despatched a messenger to Charles 11. seeking
mercy, but the warrant had been hastened. At
six in the evening of the 20th December he was
informed that next day at noon he would be conveyed
to the city prison ; but by seven o’clock he
had conceived-like his father-a plan to escape.
. Lady Sophia Lindsay (of Balcarres), wife of his
son Charles, had come to bid him a last farewell ; on
her departure he assumed the disguise and office
of her lackey, and came forth from his prism at
eight, bearing up her long train. A thick fall of
snow and the gloom of the December evening
rendered the attempt successful ; but at the outer
gate the sentinel roughly grasped his arm. In
agitation the earl dropped the train of Lady Sophia,
who, with singular presence of mind, fairly slapped
his face with it, and thereby smearing his features
with half-frozen mud, exclaimed, “Thou careless
loon ! ’’
Laughing at this, the soldier permitted them to
pass. Lady Sophia entered her coach; the earl
sprang on the footboard behind, and was rapidly
driven from the fatal gate. Disguising himself completely,
he left Edinburgh, and reached Holland,
then the focus for all the discontented spirits in
Britaia. Lady Sophia was committed to the
Tolbooth, but was not otherwise punished. After
remaining four years in Holland, he returned, and
attempted a3 insurrection in the. west against
King Jarnes, in unison with that of Monmouth in
England, but was irretrievably defeated at Mu&-
dykes.
Attired like a peasant, disguised by a long beard,
he was discovered and overpowered by three
militiamen, near Paisley. “ Alas, alas, unfortunate
Argyle ! he exclaimed, as they struck him down j
then an officer, Lieutenant Shaw (of the house 01
Greenock), ordered him to be bound hand and fool
and sent to Edinburgh, where, by order of the
Secret Council, he was ignominiously conducted
through the streets with his hands corded behind
him, bareheaded, escorted by the horse guards, and
preceded by the hangman to the Castle, where, foi
a third time, he was thrust into his old chamber.
On the day he was to die he despatched the fol.
lowing note to his son. It is preserved in the
Salton Charter chest :-
“ Edr. Castle, 30th June, ’85.
“ DEARE JAMES,-hrn to fear God ; it k the only wag
Love and respecl
I am
to make you happie here and herealter.
my wife, and hearken to her advice.
your loving father, ABGY LE
The Lord bless
The last day of his life this unfortunate noble
passed pleasantly and sweetly ; he dined heartily,
and, retiring to a closet, lay down to sleep ere the
fatal hour came. At this time one of the Privy
Council arrived, and insisted on entering. The door
was gently opened, and there lay the great Argyle
in his heavy irons, sleeping the placid sleep of
infancy.
The conscience of the aenegade smote him,”
says Macaulay; ‘‘he turnea kck at heart, ran
out of the Castle, and took tefuge in the dwelling
of a lady who lived hard by. There he flung
himself on a couch, and gave himself up to an
agony of renwrse and shame. His kinswoman,
alarmed by his looks and groans, thought he had
been taken with sudden illness, and begged him to
drink a cup of sack. ‘Na, no,’ said he, ‘it will
do me no good’ Sheprayed him to tell what had
disturbed him ‘ I have been,’ he said, ‘ in hgyle’s
prison 1 have seen him within an hour of eternity
sleeping as sweetlyas ever man did. But as for
m-1,-
At noon on the 30th June, 1685, he was escorted
to the market aoss to be “beheaded and have
his head affixed to the Tolbooth on a high pin
of iron.” When he saw the old Scottish guillo- .
tine, under the terrible square knife of which his
father, and so many since the days d Morton, had
perished, he saluted it with his lips, saying, ‘( It is
the sweetest maiden I have ever kissed.” “My
lord dies a Protestant !” cried a clergyman aloud
to the assembled t!iousands. Yes,” said the. Earl,
stepping forward, “ and not only a Protestant, but
with a heart-hatred of Popery, Prelacy, and all superstition.”
k e made a brief address to the people,
laid his head between the grooves of the guillotine,
and died with equal courage and composure. His
head was placed on the Tolbooth gable, and his
body was ultimately sent to the burial-place of his
family, Kilmun, on the shore of the Holy Loch in
Argyle.
While this mournful tragedy was being enacted
his countess and family were detained prisoners in
the Castle, wherein daily were placed fresh victims
who were captured in the West. Among these
were Richard Rumbold, a gentleman of Hertfordshire,
who bore a colonel’s commission under
Argyle (and had planted the standard of revolt
on the Castle of Ardkinglass), and Mr. William
Spence, styled his “ servitour.”
Both were treated with temble seventy, especially
Rumbold. In a cart, bareheaded, and heavily
manacled, he was conveyed from the Water Gate
to the Castle, escorted by Graham’s City Guard,
with drums beating, and on the 28th of June he ... -- Edinburgh Castle. THE EARL OF ARGYLE which he received the sentence of death. His guards in the Castle were ...

Vol. 1  p. 59 (Rel. 0.41)

ns and howitzers on the bastions of the latter
and the Calton Hill. The sharp encounter there,
and at St. Leonard’s Hill, in both of which he was
completely repulsed, are apart from the history of
the fortress, from the ramparts of which the young
king Charles 11. witnessed them; but the battle
of Dunbar subsequently placed all the south of
Scotland at the power of Cromwell, when he was
in desperation about returning for England, the
Scots having cut off his retreat. On the 7th
September, 1650, he entered Edinburgh, and placed
it under martial law, enforcing the most rigid regulations;
yet the people had nothing to complain
of, and justice was impartially administered. He
took up his residence at the Earl of Moray’s
house-that stately edifice on the south side of the
Canongate-and quartered his soldiers in Holyrood
and the city; but his guard, or outlying picket,
was in Dunbar’s Close-so named from the victors
of Dunbar ; and tradition records that a handsome
old house at the foot of Sellars Close was occasionally
occupied by him while pressing the siege of the
Castle, which was then full of those fugitive
preachers whose interference had caused the ruin
of Leslie’s army. With them he engaged in a
curious polemical discussion, and is said by Pinkerton
to have preached in St. Giles’s churchyard to
the people. To facilitate the blockade he demolished
the ancient Weigh House, which was
not replaced @ill after the Restoration.
He threw UP batteries at Heriot’s Hospital, which
was full of his wounded ; on the north bank of the
loch, and the stone bartisan of Davidson’s house
on the Castle Hill. He hanged in view of the
Castle, a poor old gardener who had supplied
Dundas with some information ; and during these
operations, Nicoll, the diarist, records that there were
many slain, “ both be schot of canoun and musket,
as weell Scottis as Inglische.” Though the garrison
received a good supply of provisions, by the bravery
of Captain Augustine, a German soldier of fortune
who served in the Scottish army, and who hewed a
passage into the fortress through Cromwell’s guards,
at the head of 120 horse, Dundas, when tampered
with, was cold in his defence. Cromwell pressed
the siege with vigour. He mustered colliers from
the adjacent country, and forced them, under fire,
to work at a mine on the south side, near the new
Castle road, where it can still’be seen in the
freestone rock. Dundas, a traitor from the first,
now lost all heart, and came to terms with
Cromwell, to whom he capitulated on the 12th of
December, 1650.*
1
* The articles of the treaty and the list of the captured guns arc given
at length in Balfour‘s ‘‘AM&”
Exactly as St. Giles’s clock struck twelve the
garrison marched ‘ out, with drums beating and
colours flying, after which the Castle was garrisoned
by “ English blasphemers ” (as the Scots called
them) under Colonel George Fenwick. Cromwell,
in reporting all this to the English Parliament,
says :-‘; I think I need say little of the strength of
this place, which, if it had not come as it did, would
have cost much blood. . . . I must needs say,
not any skill or wisdom of ours, but the good will of
God hatli given you this place.”
By the second article of the treaty the records of
Scotland n-ere transmitted to Stirling, on the capture
of which they were sent in many hogsheads to
London, and lost at sea when being sent back,
Dundas was arraigned before the Parliament,
and his reputation was never freed from the stain
cast upon it by the capitulation; and Sir Janies
Balfour, his contemporary, plainly calls him a base,
cowardly, ‘‘ traitorous villane ! ”
Cromwell defaced the royal arms at the Castle
gate and elsewhere ; yet his second in command,
Monk, was f2ted at a banquet by the magistrates,
when, on the 4th May, 1652, he was proclaimed
Protector of the Commonwealth.
At first brawls were frequent, and English
soldiers were cut off on every available occasion.
One day in the High Street, an officer came from
Cromwell’s house “in great says Patrick
Gordon, and as he mounted his horse, mhly &d
aloud, “ With my own hands I killed the Scot to
whom this horse and these pistols belonged. Who
dare say I wronged him?” ccI dare, and thus
avenge him !” exclaimed one who stood near, and,
running the Englishman through the body, mounted
his horse, dashed through the nearest gate, and
escaped into the fields.
For ten years there was perfect peace in Edin.
burgh, and stage coaches began to run every three
weeks between it and the “George Inn, without
Aldersgate, London,” for A4 10s. a seat. Iambert’s
officers preached in the High Kirk, and buffcoated
troopers taught and expounded in the Parliament
House; and so acceptable became the sway of
the Protector to civic rulers that they had just proposed
to erect acolossal stone monument in his
honour, when the Restoration came !
It was hailed with the wildest joy by all the
Scottish people. The cross of Edinburgh was
garlanded with flowers ; its fountains ran with wine ;
300 dozen of glasses were broken there, in
drinking to the health of His Sacred Majesty and
the perdition of Cromwell, who in effigy wa- 5 consigned
to the devil. Banquets were given, and
salutes fired from the Castle, where Mons Meg was ... and howitzers on the bastions of the latter and the Calton Hill. The sharp encounter there, and at St. ...

Vol. 1  p. 55 (Rel. 0.4)

THE CASTLE -4ND GLEN. 34 7 Roslin.]
further repaired, as an ornate entrance seems tc
show, with its lintel, inscribed “ S.W.S., 1622.’’
The same initials appear on the half-circular pedi.
ment of a dormer window. Above this door, which
is beautifully moulded and enriched, is a deep and
ornate squqre niche, the use for which it is difficult
to conceive.
From its windows it commands a view of the
richly-wooded glen, between the rocky banks and
dark shadows of which the Esk flows onward with
a ceaseless murmur among scattered boulders,
where grow an infinite variety of ferns. The
eastern bank rises almost perpendicularly from the
river’s bed, and everywhere there is presented a
diversity of outline that always delights an artistic
eye.
The entrance to the castle was originally by a
gate of vast strength, and the whole structure must
have been spacious and massive, and on its northern
face bears something of the aspect of old Moorish
fortresses in Spain. A descent of a great number of
stone stairs conducts through the existing structure
to the bottom, leading into a spacious kitchen,
from which a door opens into the once famous
gardens. The modern house of 1563 is ill-lighted
and confined, and possesses more the gloom of
a dungeon-like prison than the comforts of a residence.
Grose gives us a view of the whole as they
appeared in 1788--“ haggard and utterly dilapidated-
the mere wreck of a great pile riding on a
l ~ t l e sea of forest-a rueful apology for the once
grand fabric whose name of ‘ Roslin Castle ’ is so
intimately associated with melody and song.”
It is unknown when or by whom the original
castle was founded. It has been referred to the
year 1100, when William de St. Clair, son of
Waldern, Count of St. Clair, who came to England
with William the Conqueror, obtained from
Malcolm 111. the barony of Roslin, and was
named “the seemly St. Clair,” in allusion to his
grace of deportment ; but singular to say, notwithstanding
its importance, the castle is not mentioned
distinctly in history till the reign of James II.,
when Sir William Hamilton was confined in it in
1455 for being in rebellion with Douglas, and again
when it was partly burned in 1447.
Father Richard Augustine Hay, Prior of St.
Piermont, in France, who wrote much about the
Roslin family, records thus :--
“About this time, 1447, Edmund Sinclair of
Dryden, coming with four greyhounds and some
rackets to hunt with the prince (meaning William
Sinclair, Earl of Orkney), met a great company of
rats, and among them an old blind lyard, with a
straw in his mouth, led by the rest, whereat he
greatly marvelled, not thinking what was to follow;
but within four days after-viz., the feast of St.
Leonard, the princess, who took great delight in
little dogs, caused one of the gentlewomen to go
under a bed with a lighted candle to bring forth one
of them that had young whelps, which she was
doing, and not being very attentive, set on fire the
bed, whereat the fire rose and burnt the bed, and
then rose to the ceiling of the great chamber in
which the princess was, whereat she and all that
were in the dungeon (keep?) were compelled to fly.
“ The prince’s chaplain seeing this, and remembering
his master‘s writings, passed to the head of
the dungeon, where they were, and threw out four
great trunks. The news of this fire coming to the
prince’s ears through the lamentable cries of the
ladies and gentlemen, and the sight thereof coming
to his view in the place where he stood-namely,
upon the College (Chapel?) Hill-he was in sorrow
for nothing but the loss of his charters and other
writings; but when the chaplain, who had saved
himself by coming down the bell-rope tied to a
beam, declared how they were saved, he became
cheerful, and went to re-comfort his princess and
the ladies, desiring them to put away all sorrow,
and rewarded his chaplain very richly.” The
i‘ princess ” was the Elizabeth Countess of Roslin,
referred to in page 3 of Vol. I.
In 1544 the castle was fired by the English
under Hertford, and demolished. The house of
1563, erected amid its ruins nineteen years after,
was pillaged and battered by the troops of Cromwellin
1650.
+4t the revolution in 1688, it was pillaged again
by a lawless mob from the city, and from thenceforward
it passes out of history.
Of the powerful family to whom it belonged we
can only give a sketch.
The descendants of the Norman William de St.
Clair, called ihdifferently by that name and Sinclair,
received from successive kings of Scotland
accessions, which made them lords of Cousland,
Pentland, Cardoine, and other lands, and they lived
in their castle, surrounded by all the splendour of a
rude age, and personal importancegiven by the
acquisition of possessions by methods that would
be little understood in modern times.
There were three successive William Sinclairs
barons of Roslin (one of whom made a great
figure in the reign of William the Lion, and gave
a yearly gift to Newbattle,pro saZufe mime we)
before the accession of Henry, who, by one account,
is said to have mamed a daughter of the
Earl of Mar, and by auother a daughter of the Earl ... CASTLE -4ND GLEN. 34 7 Roslin.] further repaired, as an ornate entrance seems tc show, with its lintel, ...

Vol. 6  p. 347 (Rel. 0.4)

 Castle Hill.
well-known in his time as a man of taste, and the
patron of Runciman the artist.
mond, of Megginch, who jilted him for the Duke
of Athol.
doors and panels that are still preserved. Over
one of the former are the heads of King James V.,
“ For lack of gold she left me, O!
And of all that’s dear bereft me, 0 I
For Athol’s Duke
She me forsook,
And to endless care has left me, 0 I ”
The Doctor died in 1774, in his house at the northwest
corner of Brown Square; but his widow
survived him nearly twenty years. Her brother
John, twelfth Lord Semple, in 1755 sold the
An ancient pile of buildings, now swept away,
but which were accessible by Blyth’s, Tod’s, and
Nairne’s Closes, formed once the residence of
Mary of Lorraine and Guise, widow of James V.,
and Regent of Scotland from 1554 to 1560. It
iS conjectured that this palace and oratory were
erected immediately after the burning of Holyrood
and the city by the English in 1544, when the
I up her residence for a few days after the murder
of Rizzio, as she feared to trust herself within
the blood-stained precincts of the palace. Over
its main doorway there was cut in old Gothic
letters the legend &us Aonor Deo, with I. R.,
the initials of King James V., and at each end
were shields having the monograms of the Saviour
and the Virgin. The mansion, though it had been
sorely changed and misused, still exhibited some
large and handsome fireplaces, with beautifully
clustered pillars, and seven elaborately sculptured
with his usual slouched bonnet, and of his queen,
whose well-known beauty certainly cannot be traced
in this instance.
A portion of this building, accessible by a stair
near the head of the close, contained a hall, with
other apartments, all remarkable for the great
height and beauty of their ceilings, on all of which
In the de- I were coats armorial in fine stucco.
widowed queen would naturally seek a more secure
habitation within the walls of the city, and close
to the Castle guns. In this edifice it is supposed
that Mary, her daughter, after succeeding in detaching
the imbecile Dmley from his party, took
corated chimney of the former were the remains
of one of those chains to which, in Scotland, the
poker and tongs were usually attached, to prevent
their being used as weapons in case of any sudden
quarrel, One chamber was long known as the ... Castle Hill. well-known in his time as a man of taste, and the patron of Runciman the artist. mond, of ...

Vol. 1  p. 92 (Rel. 0.4)

The Castle Hill.] THE RAGGED SCHOOL. 87
the said burgh situated under the Castle Hill t+
wards the north, to the head of the bank, and so
going down to the said North Loch,” &c.
This right of proprietary seems clear enough,
yet Lord Neaves decided in favour of the Crown,
and found that the ground adjacent to the
Castle of Edinburgh, including the Esplanade and
the north and south banks or braes,” belonged,
(‘jure coronte, to Her Majesty as part and pertinent
of the said Castle.”
CHAPTER IX.
THE CASTLE HILL (cmclded).
Dr. Guthrie’s Original Ragged School-Old Houses in the Streetof the Castle Hill-Duke of Gordon’s House, Blair’s Close-Webster‘s
CloscDr. Alex. Webster-Boswell’s Court-Hyndford House-Assembly Hall-Houses of the Marquis of Argyle, Sir Andrew Kcnnedy,
the Earl of Cassillis, the Laird of Cockpen--Lord Semple’s House-Lord Semple-Palace of Mary of Gub-Its Fate.
ON the north side of this thoroughfare-which,
within 150 years ago, was one of the most
aristocratic quarters of the old city-two great
breaches have been made: one when the Free
Church College was built in 1846, and the other, a
little later, when Short’s Observatory was built in
Ramsay Lane, together with the Original Ragged
School, which owes its existence to the philanthropic
efforts of the late Dr. Guthrie, who, with
Drs. Chalmers, Cunningham, and Candlish, took
so leading a part in the pon-intrusion controversy,
which ended in the disruption in 1843 and the
institution of the Free Church of Scotland. In 1847
Guthrie’s fervent and heart-stirring appeals on behalf
of the homeless and destitute children, the little
street Arabs of the Scottish capital, led to the
establishment of the Edinburgh Original Ragged
Industrial School, which has been productive of
incalculable benefit to the children of the poorer
classes of the city, by affording them the blessing of
a good common and Christian education, by training
them in habits of industry, enabling them to
earn an honest livelihood, and fitting them for
the duties of life,
All children are excluded who attend regular
day-schools, whose parents have a regular income,
or who receive support or education from the parochial
board; and the Association consists of all subscribers
of 10s. and upwards per annum, or donors
of A5 and upwards; and the general plan upon
which this ragged school and its branch establishment
at Leith Walk, are conducted is as follows,
viz.:-“To give children an adequate allowance of
food for their daily support; to instruct them in
reading, writing, and arithmetic ; to train them in
habits of industry, by instructing and employing
them in such sorts of work as are suited to their
years; to teach them the truths of the Gospel,
making the Holy Scriptures the groundwork of
instruction. On Sabbath the children shall receive
food as on other days, and such religious instruction
as shall be arranged by the acting committee,”
which consists of not less than twelve members.
To this most excellent institution no children
are admissible who are above fourteen or under five
years of age, and they must either be natives of
Edinburgh or resident there at least twelve months
prior to application for admission, though, in special
cases, it may be limited to six. None are admitted
or retained who labour under infectious disease, or
whose mental or bodily constitution renders them
incapable of profiting by the institution. All must ,
attend church on Sunday, and no formula of
doctrine is taught to which their parents may
object ; and children are excused from attendance
at school or worship on Sunday whose parents
object to their attendance, but who undertake that
the children are otherwise religiously instructed in
the tenets of the communion to which they belong,
provided they are in a condition to be entrusted
with the care of their children.
Such were the broad, generous, and liberal views
of Dr. Guthne, and most ably have they been
carried out.
According to the Report for 187g-which may
be taken as fairly typical of the work done in this
eminently useful institution-there was an average
attendance. in the Ramsay Lane Schools of 216
boys and 89 girls. The Industrial Department
comprises carpentry, box-making, shoemaking, and
tailoring, and the net, profits made by the boys
in these branches amounted to &;I& 14s. 5+d.
Besides this the boys do all the washing, help the
cook, make their beds, and wash the rooms they
occupy twice a week. The washing done by boys
was estimated at A130, and the girls, equally
industrious, did work to the value (including the
washing) of A109 7s.
Full of years and honour, Dr. Thomas Guthne
died 24th February, 1873.
Memories of these old houses that have passed
away, yet remain, while on the opposite side of the ... Castle Hill.] THE RAGGED SCHOOL. 87 the said burgh situated under the Castle Hill t+ wards the north, to the ...

Vol. 1  p. 87 (Rel. 0.4)

372 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Heriot‘s Green.
a round hat, with a cockade and black feather on
the left side, buttons having on them the arms .of
the city and inscribed, Edirzburgh Yolunttes (Scuts
Zug., 1794 &c.), their oval belt plates also bearing
thecityarms. Twoof the companieswere grenadiers,
and all men of unusual stature. They wore bearskin
caps, with the grenade thereon, and on their skirts.
The belts, black at first, were afterwards painted
white: but, as the paint scaled off, plain buff was
A second regiment of Edinburgh volunteers was
formed in the same manner in 1797, when a landing
of the French was expected in Ireland, and the
first battalion volunteered to garrison the Castle, to
permit the withdrawal of the regular troops. This
offer was renewed in 1801, when the Lieutenant-
Colonel, the Right Hon. Charles Hope, afterwards
Lord President, wrote thus to General Vyse, commanding
the forces:-
HERIOT’S HOSPITAL : THE COUNCIL ROOM.
substituted, and the first showy uniform underwent
changes.
The colours presented to them were very handsome;
the King‘s bore a crown and the letters
G.R. ; the regimental bore the arms of Edinburgh.
The magistrates, the senators, Academicians and
the whole Town Council, were on the ground in
their robes of office. From the green the battalion
marched by the bridges to Princes Street, where the
colours were presented to them by Mrs. Elder,
after which they went to the house of the Lord
Provost, Sir James Stirling, Bart., in Queen’s Street.
The ‘latter, in virtue of his office, was honorary
colonel of the regiment; but all the other commissions
were conferred by the king, on the recommendation
of the volunteers themselves
“In the event of an enemy appearing on our
coast, we trust that you will be able to provide for
the temporary safety of Edinburgh Castle by means
of its own invalids, and the recruits and convalescents
of the numerous corps and detachments in
and about Edinburgh ; and that, as we have more
to lose than the brave fellows of the other volunteer
regiments who have extended their services, you
will allow us to be the first to share the danger,
as well as the glory, which we are confident his
Majesty’s troops will acquire under your command,
if opposed to an invading army,”
But in the following year Heriot’s Green saw
the last of these two regiments.
After eight years of military parade, and many
a sham fight on Leith Links and at Musselburgh ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Heriot‘s Green. a round hat, with a cockade and black feather on the left side, ...

Vol. 4  p. 372 (Rel. 0.39)

according to Bellenden, was now standing boldly
at bay, and, with its branching antlers, put the life
of the pious monarch in imminent jeopardy, as he
and his horse were both borne to the ground.
With a short hunting-sword, while fruitlessly endeavouring
to defend himself against the infuriated
animal, there appeared-continues the legend-a
silver cloud, from the centre of which there came
forth a hand, which placed in that of David a
sparkling cross of miraculous construction, in so far
that the material of which it was composed could
never be discovered. Scared by this interposition,
the white stag fled down the hollow way between
the hills, but was afterwards slain by Sir Gregan
Crawford, whose crest, a stag‘s head erased with
a cross-crosslet between the antlers, is still borne
by his descendants, the Crawfords of Kilbirnie,
in memory of that eventful day in the forest of
Drurnsheugh.
Thoughtful, and oppressed with great awe, the
king slowly wended his way through the forest to
the Castle ; but the wonder did not end there, for
when, after a long vigil, the king slept, there appeared
by his couch St. Andrew, the apostle of
Scotland, surrounded by rays of glory, instructing
him to found, upon the exact spot where he had
been miraculously saved, a fwegfh monastery for
the canons regular of St. Augustine ; and, in obedience
to this vision, he built the noble abbey
of Holyrood, “in the little valley between two
mountains ”-i.e., the Craigs and the Calton.
Therein the marvellous cross was preserved till
it was lost at a long subsequent period; but, in
memory of St. David’s adventure on Rood-day, a
stag‘s head with a cross between the antlers is still
boqe as the arms of the Canongate. Alfwin was
appointed first abbot, and left a glorious memory
for many virtues.*
Though nobly endowed, this famous edifice was
not built for several years, during which the
monks were received into the Castle, and occupied
buildings which had been previously the abode
of a community of nuns, who, by permission of
Pope Alexander III., were removed, the monks,
as Father Hay tells us, being deemed “as fitter
to live among soldiers.” Abbot M7illiard appears,
in 1152, as second superior of the monks in the
Castrum Puellarum, where they resided till I I 76.
A vehement dispute respecting the payment of
tithes having occurred between Robert bishop of
St. Andrews and Gaufrid abbot of Dunfermline,
it was decided by the king, apud Casielum
PueZZamm, m presence of a great convention, con-
’ “ Memorials of Ediiburgh Castle.”
sisting of the abbots of Holyrood and Stirling,
Gregory bishop of Dunkeld, the Earls of Fife and
March, Hugo de Morville the Lord High Constable,
William Lord of Carnwath, David de
Oliphant a knight of Lothian, Henry the son of
Swan, and many others, and the matter in debate
was adjudicated on satisfactorily.
David--‘< sair sanct for the crown ” though King
James I. is said to have styled him-was one of
the best of the early kings of Scotland. “I have
seen him,” remarks Aldred, “quit his horse and
dismiss his hunting equipage when any, even the
humblest of his subjects, desired an audience ; he
sometimes employed his leisure hours in the culture
of his garden, and in the philosophical amusement
of budding and engrafting trees.”
In the priory of Hexham, which was then in
Scottish territory, he was found dead, in a posture
of devotion, on the 24th of May, 1153, and was
succeeded by his grandson Malcolm IV. who,
though he frequently resided in the Castle, considered
Scone his capital rather than Edinburgh.
In 1153 he appointed Galfrid de Melville, of
Melville in Lothian, to be sheriff of the fortress,
and became a great benefactor to the monks
within it.
In 1160, Fergus, Lord of Galloway, a turbulent
thane, husband of the Princess Elizabeth daughter
of Henry I. of England, having taken arms against
the Crown, was defeated in three desperate battles
by Gilbert de Umfraville ; after which he gave his
son Uchtred as a hostage, and assumed the cowl
as an Augustine friar in the Castle of Edinburgh,
where-after bestowing the priory of St. Marie de
Tray11 as a dependant on Holyrood-he died, full
of grief and mortification, in IIGI.
Malcolm died in 1165, and was succeeded by
William the Lion, who generally resided at Haddington;
but many of his public documents are dated
“Ajud Monasienicnt San& Crzmi de CasteZZo.”
In 1174 the Castle fell, for the first time,
into the hands of the English. William the Lion
having demanded the restitution of Northumberland,
Henry of England affected to comply, but
afterwards invaded Scotland, and was repulsed.
In turn William entered England at the head of
80,ooo men, who sorely I ravaged the northern
counties, but being captured by treachery near
Alnwick, and treated with wanton barbarity and
indecency, his vast force dispersed. A ransom of
AIoo,ooo-an enormous sum in those dayswas
demanded, and the Castle was given, with
some others, as a hostage for the king. Fortunately,
however, that which was lost by the chances of
war was quickly restored by more pleasant means, ... to Bellenden, was now standing boldly at bay, and, with its branching antlers, put the life of the ...

Vol. 1  p. 22 (Rel. 0.39)

answer for some raid, act of treason, or murder, he
would perhaps appear at the bar in a suit of mail,
with as many armed men as he could muster;
and the influence of clanship rendered it dishonourable
not to shield and countenance a kins
VIEW FROM THE COWGATE OF THE BUILDINGS ON THE SOUTH SIDE OF THE PARLIAMENT CLOSE,
THE HIGHEST BUILDINGS IN EDINBURGH. (From a Print published in 1794.)
The forcible abduction of Sir Alexander Gibson,
Lord Durie, a noted lawyer (who drew up the
decisions of the Court from the 11th July, 1621.
to the 16th July, 164z)-that his voice and vote
might be absent from the decision of a case-is
hackbuttiers, with matches lighted, to enforce the '
authority of the Court; before which the former
came armed, while four thousand of his followers
of Dumbreck, and taken to Northumberland, where
he was kept for eight days in the Castle of Harbottle,
while his friends and family, unable to ac ... for some raid, act of treason, or murder, he would perhaps appear at the bar in a suit of mail, with as ...

Vol. 1  p. 168 (Rel. 0.39)

hstorphine.1 THE FORRESTERS. I21
took the name of Ruthven, and occupied the castle,
the family honours and estates, which came by his
first wife, went by the patent quoted to another
branch of the family. Dreading that the young
Ruthvens might play foully with the late lord‘s charter
chest, and prejudice their succession, Lilias
Forrester Lady Torwoodhead, her son Williani
Baillie, William Gourlay, and others, forced a
passage into the castle of Corstorphine, while the
dead lord‘s bloody corpse lay yet unburied there,
and took possession of a tall house, from which they
annoyed the defenders, although they were unable
to carry the post.” 3
He afterwards became colonel of the Scottish
Horse Grenadier Guards. His son, the sixth lord,
was dismissed from the navy by sentence of a
court-martial in 1746 for misconduct, when captain
of the Dejance, and died two years after. His
brother (cousin, says Burke) William, seventh lord,
succeeded him, and 04 his death in 1763 the title
TOMB OF THE FORRESTERS, CORSTORPHINE CHURCH.
and furiously demanded the charter chest, of which
the Lords of Council took possession eventually,
and cast these intruders into prison.
Young Baillie become third Lord Forrester of
Corstorphine. The fourth lord was his son William,
who died in I 705, and left, by his wife, a daughter of
Sir Andrew Birnie of Saline, George, the fifth Lord
Forrester, who fought against the House of Stuart at
Preston in 17 15 ; and it is recorded, that when
Brigadier Macintosh was attacked by General Willis
at the head of five battalions he repulsed them all.
“The Cameronian Regiment, however, led by their
Lieutenant-Colonel Lord Forrester, who displayed
singular bravery and coolness in the action, succeeded
in effecting a lodgment near the barricade,
lla
devolved in succession upon two Baronesses
Forrester, through one of whom it passed to
James, Earl of Verulam, grandson of the Hon.
Harriet Forrester; so the peers of that title now
represent the Forresters of Corstorphine, whose
name was so long connected with the civic annals
of Edinburgh.
It may be of interest to note that the armorial
bearings of the Forresters of Corstorphine,
as shown on their old tombs and elsewhere,
were-quarterly I st and 4th, three buffaloes’
horns stringed, for the name of Forrester; with,
afterwards, 2nd and grd, nine mullets for that
of Baillie; crest, a talbot’s head; two talbots for
supporters, and the motto S’ero. ... THE FORRESTERS. I21 took the name of Ruthven, and occupied the castle, the family honours and ...

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OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [North Bridge.
after nnmixous schemes and suggestions, the North
Bridge was widened in 1873, after designs by
Messrs. Stevenson. The average number of footpassengers
traversing this bridge daily is said to
be considerably in excess of go,ooo, and the
number of wheeled vehicles upwards of 2,000.
The ground at the north-east end of the bridge
has been so variously occupied in succession by an
edifice ‘named Dingwall’s Castle, by Shakespeare
Square, and the oldTheatre Royal, with its thousand
memories of the drama in Edinburgh, and latterly
Jay the new General Post Office for Scotland, that we must devote a chapter or two to that portion
’ of it alone.
CHAPTER XLIII.
EAST SIDE OF THE NORTH BRIDGE.
Diogwall’s Castle-Whitefield‘s “ Preachings”-History of the Old Theatre Royal-The Building-David Ross’s Management--Leased to
Mr. Foote-Then to Mr. Digges-Mr. Moss-- Yates-Next Leased to Mr. Jackson-The Siddons Fumre-Reception of the Great
Actress-ME. Baddeley-New Patent-The Playhouse Riot-“The Scottish Roscius ”-A Ghost-Expiry of the Patent.
BUILT no one knows when, but existing during the
sixteenth and seventeenth centuries, there stood
on the site now occupied by the new General Post
Office, an edifice named Dingwall’s Castle. In
1647, Cordon of Rothiemay, in his wonderfully
distinct and detailed bird’s-eye view of the city,
represents it as an open ruin, in form a square
tower with a round one at each angle, save on the
north-east, where one was fallen down in part. All
the sloping bank aiid ground between it and the
Trinity College church are shown as open, but
bordered on the west by a line of houses, which he
names Niniani Suburbium seu nzendicorum Fatea
(known latterly as the Beggar’s Row), and on the
west and north by high walls, the latter crenellated,
and by a road which descends close to the edge
of the loch, and then runs along its bank straight
westward.
This stronghold is supposed to have derived its
name from Sir John Dingwall, who was Provost of
the Trinity College church before the Reformation ;
and hence the conclusion is, that it was a dependency
of that institution. He was one of the
first Lords of Session appointed on the 25th May,
1532, at the formation of the College of Justice,
and his name is third on the list.
Of him nothing more is known, save that he
existed and that is all. . Some fragments of the
castle are still supposed to exist among the buildings
on its site, and some were certainly traced
among the cellars of Shakespeare Square on its demolition
in 1860.
During the year 1584 when the Earl of Arran was
Provost of the city, on the 30th September, the
Council commissioned Michael Chisholm and others
to inquire into the order and condition of an ancient
leper hospital which stood beside Dingwall’s Castle;
but of the former no distinct trace is given in
Cordon’s view.
In Edgar‘s map of Edinburgh, in 1765, no indication
of these buildings is given, but the ground
occupied by the future theatre and Shakespeare
Square is shown as an open park or irregular
parallelogam closely bordered by trees, measuring
about 350 feet each way, and lying between the
back of the old Orphan Hospital and the village
of Multrie’s Hill, where now the Register House
stands.
It was in this park, known then as that of the
Trinity Hospital, that the celebrated Whitefield
used yearly to harangue a congregation of all creeds
and classes in the open air, when visiting Edinburgh
in the course of his evangelical tours. On his
coming thither for the first time after the Act
had passed for the extension of the royalty,
great was his horror, surprise, and indignation, to
find the green slope which he had deemed to be
rendered almost sacred by his prelections, enclosed
by fences and sheds, amid which a theatre was in
course of erection.
The ground was being “appropriated to the
service of Satan. The frantic astonishment of the
Nixie who finds her shrine and fountain desolated
in her absence, was nothing to that of Whitefield.
He went raging about the spot, and contemplated
the rising walls of the playhouse with a sort of grim
despair. He is said to have considered the circumstance
as a positive mark of the increasing wickedness
of society, and to have termed it a plucking up
of God’s standard, and a planting of the devil’s in
its place.”
The edifice which he then saw in course of
erection was destined, for ninety years, to be inseparably
connected with the more recent rise of
the drama in Scotland generally, in Edinburgh in
particular, and to be closely identified with all the
artistic and scenic glories of the stage. It was
long a place replete with interest, and yet recalls ... AND NEW EDINBURGH. [North Bridge. after nnmixous schemes and suggestions, the North Bridge was widened in ...

Vol. 2  p. 340 (Rel. 0.38)

anderwent at sea, yet he adds, “our numbers
amounted to 700, and with the loss of three we
made ourselves masters of the island, defended by
800 English trained to war and accustomed to
slaughter.” The Queen Regent and Monluc, the
Bishop of Valence, visited the island after its recapture,
and, according to the French account, were
rather regaled by the sight of 300 English corpses
strewn about it.
The castle was afterwards demolished by order of
LEITH HARBOUR ABOUT 1700. (Fronr am Oil Paint ng in fhe Tn‘ni2y trousu, Lcifh.)
The French troops in Leith, being all trained
veterans, inured to military service in the wars of
Francis I. and Henry II., gave infinite trouble to
the raw levies of the Lords of the Congregation,
who began to blockade the town in October,
1559. Long ere this Mary, Queen of Scots, had
become the bride of Francis of France ; and her
mother, who had upheld the Catholic cause so
vigorously, was on her deathbed in the castle of
Edinburgh.
the Scottish Parliament as useless, and nothing
remains of it now but a stone, bearing the royal
arms, built into the lighthouse ; but the French
troops in Leith conceived such high ideas of the excellent
properties of the grass there, that all their
horses were pastured upon it, and for ten years
*hey always termed it “ L’isZe des Chvaux.”
So pleased was Mary of Lorraine with the presence
of her French soldiers in Leith, that-
:according to Maitland-she erected for herself “ a
‘house at the corner of Quality Wynd in the Rotten
Row ;” but Robertson states that “a general impression
has existed that Queen Street was the site
of the residence of the Queen Dowager.” Above
ithe door of it were the arms of Scotland and Guise.
The Lords of Congregation, before proceeding to
extremities with the French, sent a summons,in
the names of “their sovereign lord and lady,
Francis and Mary, King and Queen of Scotland
and France, demanding that all Scots and Frenchmen,
of whatever estate or degree, depart out of the
town of Leith within the space of twelve hours.”
To this no answer was returned, so the Scottish
troops prepared for an assault by escalade; but
when they applied their ladders to the wall they
were found to be too short, and the heaiy fire of
the French arquebusiers repelled the assailants
with loss, These unlucky scaling-ladders had been
made in St. Giles’s Church, a circumstance which,
curiously enough, is said to have irritated the ... at sea, yet he adds, “our numbers amounted to 700, and with the loss of three we made ourselves masters ...

Vol. 5  p. 173 (Rel. 0.38)

lection of glittering jewels, of which Tytler gives
the list. In the “inventory” of the Jewel House
are mentioned five relics of Robert Bruce, viz.,
four silver goblets and a shirt of mail, “King
Robert‘s serk,” as it is written. Among his
cannon were two great French curtalds, forty-six
other pieces of various calibre, and sixteen fieldwaggons,
with a vast quantity of military stores of
every description.
. The quarrels between James and his arrogant
nobles deepened day by day. At last, says Godscroft,.
a story went abroad that it was proposed
to invite them all to a banquet in the great hall
of the Castle, and there cut them off root and
branch ! This startling rumour led to others, and
all culminated in the battle of Sauchieburn, where
James perished, under the dagger of an assassin,
on the 8th of June, 1488-a monarch who, more
than any other of the Stuarts, contributed towards
the permanent prosperity of the Scottish metropolis.
“By favour of his charters its local jurisdiction
was left almost exclusively in the hands
of its own magistrates; on them were conferred
ample powers for enacting laws for its governance,
with authority in life and death-still vested in its
chief magistrate-an independence which was
afterwards defended amid many dangers down to
the period of the Union. By his charters, also in
their favour, they obtained the right, which they
still hold, to all the customs of the haven and
harbour of Leith, with the proprietorship of the
adjacent coast, and all the roads leading thereto.”
On the accession of James IV., in his boyhood,
he sent a herald from Leith to demand the surrender
of the Castle, and a commission consisting
of the Lord High Treasurer, Sir Wi11;am Knowles
(afterwards slain at Flodden), and others, took
over all the personal property of the late king.
The inventory taken on this occasion, according
to Tytler, affords a pleasing and favourable idea
of the splendour of the Scottish court in those
days.
In the treasurer‘s accounts we have many curious
entries concerning the various Scottish harpers,
fiddlers, and English pipers, that performed here
to amuse James IV. “July 10, 1489 ; to Inglish
pyparis that cam to the Caste1 yet and p1.ayit to
the king, viij lib. viij s,”
During the reign of the chivalrous and splendid
James 1V.-who was crowned at Kelso-Edinburgh
became celebrated throughout all Europe as
the scene of knightly feats. The favourite place for
the royal tournaments was a spot of ground just
below the Cast16 rock, and near the king‘s stables.
There, James in particular, assembled the nobles by
prwlamation, for jousting, offering such meeds of
honour as a golden-headed lance, or similar
favours, presented by his own hand or that of
some beautiful woman. Knights came from all
countries to take part in these jousts; “bot,”
says Pitscottie, “few or none of thame passed
away unmatched, and oftimes overthrowne.”
One notable encounter, witnessed by the
king from the Castle wall, took place in 1503,
when a famous cavalier of the Low Countries,
named by Pitscottie Sir John Cochbevis, challenged
the .best knight in Scotland to break
a spear, or meet him d outrancc in combat to
the death. Sir Patrick Hamilton of the house
of Arran took up his challenge. Amid a vast
concourse, they came to the barriers, lanced,
horsed, and clad in .tempered mail, with their
emblazoned shields hung round their necks. At
sound of trumpet they rushed to the shock, and
splintered their spears fairly. Fresh ones were
given them, but as Hamilton’s horse failed him,
they drew their two-handed swords, and encountered
on foot. They fought thus “for a full
hour, till the Dutchman being struck to the
ground,” the king cast his plumed bonnet over
the wall to stay the combat, while the heralds
and trumpeters proclaimed the Scottish knight
victorious.
But the court of James was distinguished for
other things than the science of war, for during
his brilliant reign Edinburgh became the resort of
men high in every department of science and
art; and the year 1512 saw the Provost of St.
Giles’s, Gavin Douglas, translating Virgil’s “Bneid”
into Scottish verse.
In the Castle there resided, about 1503, Lady
Margmet Stuart, the daughter of James, by Margaret
Drummond of that ilk, whom he is said to
have married clandestinely, and who was removed
by some Scottish conspirators ‘‘ to . make way
for a daughter of England,” as an old historian
has i t She was poisoned, together with her two
sisters; and in August, 1503, “the daughter of
England” duly came in the person of Margaret
Tudor, whose marriage to James at Edinburgh
was conducted with great splendour and much
rejoicing.
In 1509 James employed his master gunner,
Robert Borthwick, to cast a set of brass ordnance
for the Castle, all of which were inscribed
-Mmfim sum, Scofo Borfhwick Eizbricafa, Roberto.
Seven of these were named by James “ the sisters,”
being remarkable for their beauty and size. Borthc
wick also cast within the Castle the bells that now
hang in the cathedral of St. Magnus at Kirkwall
’ ... of glittering jewels, of which Tytler gives the list. In the “inventory” of the Jewel House are mentioned ...

Vol. 1  p. 35 (Rel. 0.38)

I72 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Leith.
.but the3ittle .warlike episode connected with Inchkeith
forms a part of it.
In the rare view of Holyrood given at page 45
.of Vol. II., Inchkeith is shown in the distance, with
its castle, a great square edifice, having a round
tower at each corner. The English garrison here
were in a position which afforded them many
.advantages, and they committed many outrages on
the shores of Fife and Lothian; and when it be-
.came necessary to dislodge them, M. de Biron, a
French officer, left Leith in a galley to reconnoitre
to the island, and evident selection of the only
landing-place, roused the suspicions of the garrison.
Finding theirintentions discovered, they made direct
for the rock, and found the English prepared to
dispute every inch of it with them.
Leaping ashore, with pike, sword, and arquebus,
they attacked the English hand to hand, drove
them into the higher parts of the island, where
Cotton, their commander, and George Appleby,
one of his officers, were killed, with several English
gentlemen of note. The castle was captured, and
@he island-the same galley in which, it is said,
little Queen Mary afterwards went to France. The
English garrison were no doubt ignorant of Biron’s
object in sailing round the isle, as they did not fire
upon him.
Mary of Lorraine had often resorted to Leith
since the arrival of her cour.trymen ; and now she
took such an interest in the expedition to Inchkeith
that she personally superintended the embarkation,
on Corpus Christi day, the 2nd of June,
1549. Accompanied by a few Scottish troops, the
French detachment, led by Chapelle de Biron, De
Ferrieres, De Gourdes, and other distinguished
.officers, quitted the harbour in small boats, and to
.deceive the English as to their intentions sailed up
and down the Firth ; but their frequent approaches
the English driven pell-mell into a corner of the
isle, where they had no alternative but to throw
themselves into the sea or surrender. In this combat
De Biron was wounded on the head by an
arquebus, and had his helmet so beaten about his
ears that he had to be carried off to the boats.
Desbois, his standard-bearer, fell under the pike
of Cotton, the English commander, and Gaspare
di Strozzi, leader of the Italians, was slain. An
account of the capture of this island was published
in France, and it is alike amusing and remarkable
for the bombast in which the French writer indulged.
He records at length the harangues of
the Queen Regent and the French leaders as the
expedition quitted Leith, the length and tedium of
the voyage, and the sufferings which the troops ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Leith. .but the3ittle .warlike episode connected with Inchkeith forms a part of ...

Vol. 5  p. 172 (Rel. 0.37)

Rothesay might be baptised in Protestant form,
The queen only replied by placing the child in
his arms. Then the aged minister knelt down, and
prayed long and fervently for his happiness and
prosperity, an event which so touched the tender
Mary that she burst into tears; however, the
prince was baptised according to the Roman ritual
at Stirling on the 5th of December.
The birth of a son produced little change in
Damley’s licentious life. He perished as history
records ; and on Bothwell’s flight after Carberry,
and Mary‘s captivity in Lochleven, the Regent
Moray resolved by force or fraud to get all the
fortresses into his possession. Sir James Balfour,
a minion of Bothwell’s-the keeper of the famous
silver casket containing the pretended letters and
sonnets of Mary-surrendered that of Edinburgh,
bribed by lands and money as he marched out, and
the celebrated Sir William Kirkaldy of Grange was
appointed governor in his place. That night the
fated Regent Moray entered with his friends, and
slept in the same little apartment wherein, a year before,
his sister had been delivered of the infant now
proclaimed as James VI. ; but instead of keepin& his
promise to Balfour, Moray treacherously made him
a prisoner of state in the Castle of St. Andrews.
CHAPTER VI.
EDIXBURGH C A S T L E - ( C O ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ) .
The Siege of 157yThe City Bombarded from the Castle-Elizabeth’s Spy-Drury’s Dispositions for the Siege-Execution of Kirkaldy
-Repair of the Roins-Execution of Morton-Visit of Charles I.-Procession to Holyrood-Coronation of Charles 1.-The Struggle
against Episcopacy-Siege of 16p-The Spectre Drummer-Besieged by Cromwell-Under the Protector-The Restoration-The Argyles
-The Accession of James VIJ -Sentence of the Earl of Argyl-His clever Escape-Imprisoned four years latu-The Last Sleep oC
Argyle-His Death-Torture of Covenanters-Proclamation of William and Mary-lle Siege of 168g-Interview between Gordoe
and Dundee-The Castle invested-Brilliant Defence-Capitulation of the Duke of Gordon-The Spectre of Ckverhouse. J
MARY escaped from Lochleven on the and of May,
1568, and after her defeat fled to England, the
last country in Europe, as events showed, wherein
she should have sought refuge or hospitality.
After the assassination of the Regent Moray, to
his successor, the Regent Morton, fell the task of
subduing all who lingered in arms for the exiled
queen ; and so well did he succeed in this, that,
save the eleven acres covered by the Castle rock
of Edinburgh, which was held for three years by
Sir William Kirkaldy of Grange with a garrison
resolute as himself, the whole country was now
under his rule.
Kirkaldy, whose services in France and elsewhere
had won him the high reputation of being
“ the bravest soldier in Europe,” left nothing undone,
amid the unsettled state of affairs, to
strengthen his .post. He raised and trained soldiers
without opposition, seized all the provisions that
were brought into Leith, and garrisoned St. Giles’s
church, into the open spire of which he swung
up cannon to keep the citizens in awe. This was
on the 28th of March, 1571. After the Duke of
Chatelherault, with his Hamiltons-all queen’s men
-marched in on the 1st of May, the gables of
the church were loopholed for arquebuses. Immediate
means were taken to defend the town
against the Regent. Troops crowded into it; others
were niustered for its protection, and this state
of affairs continued for fully three years, during
which Kirkaldy baffled the efforts of four successive
Regents, till Morton was fain to seek aid
from Elizabeth, to wrench from her helpless refugee
the last strength that remained to her ; and most
readily did the English queen agree thereto.
A truce which had been made between ’Morton
and Kirkaldy expired on the 1st of January, 1573,
and as the church bells tolled six in the morning, the
Castle guns, among which were two &?-pounders,
French battardes, and English‘ culverins’ or 18-
pounders (according to the :‘ Memoirs ofKirkaldy”),
opened on the city in the dark. It was then full
of adherents of James VI., so Kirkaldy cared not
where his shot fell, after the warning gun had been
previously discharged, that all loyal subjects of
the queen should retire. As the ‘grey winter dawn
stole in, over spire and pointed roof, the cannonade
was chiefly directed from the eastern curtain
against the new Fisli Market ; the baikets in
which were beaten so high in the air, that for days
after their contents were seen scattered on the tops
of the highest houses. In one place a single shot
killed five persons and wounded twenty others.
Selecting a night when the wind was high and
blowing eastward, Kirkaldy made a sally, and set
on fire all the thatched houses in West Port and
Castle Wynd, cannonading the while the unfortunates
who strove to quench the flames that rolled
away towards the east. In March Kirkaldy resolutely
declined to come to terms with Morton, though
earnestly besought to do so by Henry Killigrew,
who came ostensibly as an English envoy, but in ... might be baptised in Protestant form, The queen only replied by placing the child in his arms. Then the ...

Vol. 1  p. 47 (Rel. 0.37)

192 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. lThe High S e e a
and Sweden, tells us, at the storming of Boitzenburg,
there was “ a Scottish gentleman under the
enemy, who, coming to scale the walls, said aloud,
‘Have with you, gentlemen ! Thinke not now
you are on the streel of Edhlburgh bravading.’ One
of his own countrymen thrusting him through the
body with a pike, he ended there.”
In the general consternation which succeeded
* the defeat of the army at Flodden a plague raged
within the city with great violence, and carried off
great numbers. Hence the Town Council, to prevent
its progress,
ordered all shops
and booths to be
closed for the space
of fifteen days, and
neither doors nor
windows to be
opened within that
time, but on some
unavoidable occasion,
and nothing
to be dealt in but
necessaries for the
immediate support
of life. All vagrants
were forbidden
to walk in the
streets without hiving
each a light;
and several houses
that had been occupied
by infected
persons were demolished.
*
In 1532 the
High Street was
first paved or causewayed,
and many of
the old tenements
“These, however,” says Arnot, “are not to be
considered as arguing any comparative insignificancy
in the city of Edinburgh. They proceeded
from the rudeness of the times. The writers of
those days spoke of Edinburgh in terms that show
the respectable opinion they entertained of it. ‘ In
this city,’ says a writer of the sixteenth century-
Braun Agrippinensis--‘ there are two spacious
streets, of which the principal one, leading from
the Palace to the Castle, is paved with square
stones. The city itself is not built of bricks,
ANDREW CROSBY. (Fmm the Portrait in tkePadiament Haii.)
[The orkinal ofCuunseZZnr PLydelZ in “ Guy Mamneiing.“]
renovated. The former was done under the superintendence
of a Frenchman named Marlin, whose
name was bestowed on an alley to the south. The
Town Council ordered lights to be hung out by
night by the citizens to light the streets, and Edinburgh
became a principal place of resort from all
parts of the kingdom.
Till the reign of James V., the meal-market, and
also the flesh-market, were kept in booths in the
open High Street, which was also encumbered by
stacks of peat, heather, and other fuel, before every
door; while, till the middle of the end of the seventeenth
century, according to Gordon’s map, a fleshmarket
was kept in the Canongate, immediately
below the Nether Bow.
but of square freestones,
and so
stately is its app
ear an c e, that
single houses inay
be compared to
palaces. From the
abbey to the castle
there is a continued
street, which on
both sides contains
a range of excellent
houses. and the
better sort are built
of hewn stone.’
There are,” adds
Amot, ‘‘ specimens
oT the buildings of
the fifteenth century
still (1779) remaining,
particularly
a house on
the south side of
the High Street,
immediately above
Peeble’s Wynd,
having a handsome
front of hewn stone,
and niches in the
walls for the images of saints, which may justify
our author‘s description. The house was built
about 1430 (temp. James I.) No private building
in the city of modern date can compare
with it.”
The year 1554 saw the streets better lighted,
and some attempts made to clean them.
The continual wars with England compelled the
citizens to crowd their dwellings as near the Castle
as possible ; thus, instead of the city increasing in
limits, it rose skyward, as we have already mentioned
; storey was piled on storey till the streets
resembled closely packed towers or steeples, each
house, or “land,” sheltering from twenty to thirty
families within its walls. This was particularly thc ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. lThe High S e e a and Sweden, tells us, at the storming of Boitzenburg, there was “ a ...

Vol. 1  p. 192 (Rel. 0.37)

108 OLD -4ND NEW EDINBURGH. [Calton Hill.
~~~~
sea or land, with all its defects it makes a magnificent
termination to the vista along Princes Street
from the west. The base is a battlemented edifice,
divided into small apartments and occupied as a
restaurant Above its entrance is the crest of
Nelson, with a sculpture representing the stern of
the Son ’jGosep/l, and underneath an inscription,
~-
of which the monument rises possesses an
outline which, by a curious coincidence, presents
a profile of Nelson, when viewed from Holyrood.
The time-ball, which is in electric communication
with the time-gun at the Castle, falls every day
at one o’clock simultaneously with the discharge of
THE CALTON BURYING-GROUND : HUME’S GRAVE.
recording that the grateful citizens of Edinburgh
‘- have erected this monument, not to express their
unavailing sorrow for his death, nor yet to celebrate
the matchless glories of his life, but by his noble
example to teach their sons to emulate what they
admire, and like him, when duty requires it, to die
for their country.”
From this pentangular base rises, to the height
of more than IOO feet, a circular tower, battlemented
at the top, surmounted by the time-ball and a flagstaff,
where a standard is always hoisted on the
anniversary of Trafalgar, and used also to be run
up on the 1st of August in memory of the battle of
Abouku. Around the edifice are a garden and plots
of shrubbery, from amid ,which, peeping grimly
foith, are three Russian trophies-two cannon
from Sebastopol and one from Bomarsund, placed
r‘nere in 1857. The precipice from the edge
the gun which is fired from Greenwich. A common
joke of the High School boys is that the Duke
of Wellington gets off his horse in front of the
Register House 7uhen he hears the gun, lunches, and
re-mounts his statuesque steed at two o’clock !
A little to the north of it, on a flat portion ot
the hill, stand twelve magnificent Grecian Doric
columns, the fragment of the projected national
monument to the memory of all Scottish soldiers
and sailors who fell by land and sex in the long
war with France ; and, with a splendour of design
corresponding to the grandeur of the object, it was
meant to be a literal restoration of the Parthenon
at Athens. The contributors were incorporated by
Act of Parliament.
The foundation stone was laid on the 27th
August, 1822, the day on which George IV. visited
Melville Castle. Under the Duke of Hamilton, ... OLD -4ND NEW EDINBURGH. [Calton Hill. ~~~~ sea or land, with all its defects it makes a ...

Vol. 3  p. 108 (Rel. 0.37)

bosom of Belhaven, the Earl Marischal, after having
opposed the Union in all its stages, refused to be
present at this degrading ceremony, and was represented
by his proxy, Wilson, the Clerk of Session,
who took a long protest descriptive of the regalia,
and declaring that they should remain within the
said crown-room, and -never be removed from it
without due intimation being made to the Earl
Marischal. A copy of this protest, beautifully illuminated,
was then deposited with the regalia, a
linen cloth was spread over the whole, and the
great oak chest was secured by three ponderous
locks; and there for a hundred and ten years,
amid silence, obscurity, and dust, lay the crown
that had sparkled on the brows of Bruce, on those
of the gallant Jameses, and on Mary’s auburn hair
-the symbols of Scotland‘s elder days, for which
so many myriads of the loyal, the brave, and the
noble, had laid down their lives on the battle-field
-neglected and forgotten.”
Just four months after this obnoxious ceremony,
and while the spirit of antagonism to it rose high in
the land, a gentleman, with only thirty men, undertook
to surprise the fortress, which had in it now a
party of but thirty-five British soldiers, to guard the
equivalent money, ~400,000, and a great quantity
of Scottish specie, which had been called in to be
coined anew. In the memoirs of Kerr of Kerrsland
we are told that the leader of this projected surprise
was to appear with his thirty followers, all well
armed, at noon, on the esplanade, which at that
hour was the chief lounge of gay and fashionable
people. Among these they were to mingle, but
drawing as near to the barrier gate as possible.
While affecting to inquire for a friend in the Castle,
the leader was to shoot the sentinel ; the report of
his pistol was to he the signal on which his men
were to draw their swords, and secure the bridge,
when a hundred men who were to be concealed in
a cellar near were to join them, tear down the
Union Jack, and hoist the Colours of James VIII.
in its place. The originator of this daring scheme
-whose name never transpired-having commu.
nicated it to the well-known intriguer, Kerr of
Kerrsland, while advising him to defer it till the
chevalier, then expected, was off the coast, he
secretly gave information to the Government, which,
Burnbank was a very debauched character, who is
frequently mentioned in Penicuick‘s satirical poems,
to put it in a state of defence ; but the great magazine
of arms, the cannon, stores, and 495 barrels of
powder, which had been placed there in 1706, had
all been removed to England. “But,” says a
writer, this was only in the spirit of centralisation,
which has since been brought to such perfection.”
In 1708, before the departure of the fleet of
Admiral de Fourbin with that expedition which the
appearance of Byng’s squadron caused to fail, a
plan of the Castle had been laid, at Versailles,
before a board of experienced engineer officers,
who unanimously concluded that, with his troops,
cannon, and mortars, M. de Gace would carry the
place in a few hours. A false attack was to be
made on the westward, while three battalions were
to storm the outworks on the east, work their
way under the half-moon, and carry the citadel.
Two Protestant bishops were then to have crowned
the prince in St. Giles’s church as James VIII.
‘I The equivalent from England being there,” says
an officer of the expedition, “would have been a
great supply to us for raising men (having about
400 officers with us who had served in the wars
in Italy), and above 100 chests in money.”
Had M. de Gace actually appeared before the
fortress, its capture would not have cost him much
trouble, as Kerrsland tells us that there were not
then four rounds of powder in it for the batteries !
On the 14th of December, 1714 the Castle was:
by a decree of the Court of Session, deprived of
its ancient ecclesiastical right of sanctuary, derived
from and retained since the monastic institution
of David I., in I 128. Campbell of Burnbank, the
storekeeper, being under caption at the instance of
a creditor, was arrested by a messenger-at-arms,
on which Colonel Stuart, the governor, remembering
the right of sanctuary, released Campbell, expelled
the official, and closed the barriers. Upon
this the creditor petitioned the court, asserting that
the right of sanctuary was lost. In reply it was
asserted that the Castle was not disfranchised, and
that the Castle of Edinburgh, having anciently
been rmtrurn pueZZarum, kas originally a religious
house, as well as the abbey of Holyrood.” But
the Court decided that it had no privilege of
sanctuary “to hinder the king’s letters, and ordained
Colonel Stuart to deliver Burnbank to a messenger.”
organised among the Hays, Keiths, and Murrays, and was employed by “Nicoll Muschat of ill
On tidings of this, the Earl of Leven, governor When the seventies exercised by George I. upon ... of Belhaven, the Earl Marischal, after having opposed the Union in all its stages, refused to be present at ...

Vol. 1  p. 67 (Rel. 0.37)

:a brave prince, demanded instant restitution, and,
at the head of an army, laid siege to the Normans
in the border stronghold.
At this time,the winter snow was covering all the
vast expanse of leafless forest, and the hills-then
growing only heath and gorse-around the Castle of
Edinburgh; and there the queen, with her sons
Edmond, Edgar, and David, and her daughters
Mary and Matilda (surnamed the Good, afterwards
queen of Henry I. of England), were anxiously
waiting tidings from the king and his son Edward,
who‘had pressed the siege of Alnwick with such
severity that its garrison was hourly expected to
surrender. A sore sickness was now preying on
the wasted frame of the queen, who spent her days
in prayer for the success of the Scots and the
safety of the king. and prince.
All old historians vie with each other in praise of
the virtuous Margaret. ‘‘ When health and beauty
were hers,” says one writer, “she devoted her
strength to serve the poor and uncultivated people
whom God had committed to her care; she fed them
with her own hand, smoothed their pillow in sickness,
and softened the barbarous and iron rule of
their feudal lords. No wonder that they regarded
her as a guardian angel among them.”
She daily fed three hundred,” says another
authority, “waiting upon them on her bended
knees, like a housemaid, washing their feet and
kissing them, For these and other expenses she
not only parted with her own royal dresses, but
more than once she drained the treasury.”
Malcolm, a Celt, is said to have been unable to
read the missals given him by his fair-haired Saxon,
but he was wont to kiss them and press them to
his heart in token of love and respect.
In the castle she built the little oratory on the
very summit of the rock. It stands within the
.citadel, and is in perfect preservation, measuring
about twenty-six feet long by ten, and is spanned
by a finely ornamented a p e arch that springs from
massive capitals, and is covered with zig-zag mouldings.
It was dedicated to her in after years, and
liberally endowed.
“There she is said to have prophetically announced
the surprise of the fortress in 1312, by
causing to be painted on the wall a representation
of a man scaling the Castle rock, with the inscription
underneath, ‘ Garak-vow Franfais,’ a prediction
which was conveniently found to be verified
when the Castle was re-taken from the English by
William Frank (or Francis) and Earl Randolph ;
though why the Saxon saint should prophesy in
French we are left to conjecture.”
Comzcted with the residence of Edgar Atheling’s
sister in Edinburgh Castle there is another
legend, which states that while there she commissioned
her friend St. Catharine-but which
St. Catharine it fails to specify-to bring her some
oil from Mount Sinai; and that after long and
sore travel from the rocks of Mount Horeb, the
saint with the treasured oil came in sight of the
Castle of Edinburgh, on that ridge where stood
the Church of St Mary, built by Macbeth, baron
of Liberton. There she let fall the vessel containing
the sacred oil, which was spilt; but there
sprang up in its place a fountain of wonderful
medicinal efficacy, known now as the Balm Well
of St. Catharine, where the oil-which practical
folk say is bituminous and comes from the coal
seams-may still be seen floating on the limpid
water. It figuted long in monkish legends. For ‘
vges a mound near it was alleged to be the tomb of
St Catharine; and close by it James IV. erected a
beautiful little chapel dedicated to St. Margaret,
but long since demolished.
During the king’s absence at Alnwick, the queen,
by the severity of her fastings and vigils, increased
a heavy illness under which she laboured. Two
days before her death, Prince Edgar, whom some
writers call her brother, and others her son, arrived
from the Scottish camp with tidings that Malcolm
had been slain, with her son Edward.
“ Then,” according to Lord Hailes, who quotes
Turgot’s Life of SL Margaret, ‘‘ lifting up her eyes
and hands towards heaven, she said, Praise and
blessing be to Thee, Almighty God, that Thou hast
been pleased to make me endure so bitter anguish
in the hour of my departure, thereby, as I trust, to
purify me in some measure from the corruption of
my sins; and Thou, Lord Jesus Christ, who
through the will of the Father, hast enlivened
the world by Thy death, oh, deliver me ! ’ While
pronouncing ‘ deliver me’ she expired.”
This, according to the Bishop of St. Andrews,
Turgot, previously Prior of Durham, was after she
had heard mass in the present little oratory, and
been borne to the tower on the west side of the
rock ; and she died holding in her hand a famous
relic known as “the black rood of Scotland,” which
according to St. Elred, “was a cross an ell long,
of pure gold and wonderful workmanship, having
thereon an ivory figure of our Saviour marvellously
adorned with gold.”
This was on 16th of November, 1093, when she
was in the forty-seventh year of her age. Unless
history be false, with the majesty of a queen and
the meekness of a saint Margaret possessed a
beauty that falls but seldom to the lot of women ;
and in her time she did much to soften the ... brave prince, demanded instant restitution, and, at the head of an army, laid siege to the Normans in the ...

Vol. 1  p. 18 (Rel. 0.37)

politically. These documents had been perfidiously
sent to Scotland by General Monk. The marquis
was condemned to die the death of a traitor.
From the Castle he begged in vain a ten days’
respite, that he might crave pity of the king. ‘‘I
placed the crown upon his head,” said he, mourn-
- fully, “ and this is my reward ! ”
An escape was planned. He lay in bed for
some days feigning iuyess, and the Marchioness
came in a sedan to visit him. Being of the same
stature, he assumed her dress and coif; but when
about to step into the sedan his courage failed him,
and he abandoned the attempt. The night before
execution he was removed to the most ancient
prison in Edinburgh-an edifice in Mauchine’s
Close, long since removed, where the Marchioness
awaited him. “The Lord will requite it,” she exclaimed,
as she wept bitterly on his breast. “ Forbear,
Margaret,” said. he, calmly, “I pity my
enemies, and am as content in this ignominious
prison as in yonder Castle of Edinburgh.”
With his last breath he expressed abhorrence of
the death of Charles I, and on the 27th May his
head was struck from his body by the Maiden, at
the west end of the Tolbooth. By patent all his
ancient earldom and estates were restored to his
son, h r d Lorne, then a prisoner in the Castle,
where on one occasion he had a narrow escape,
when playing “ with hand bullets ” {bowls 3) one
of which, as Wodrow records, struck him senseless.
On the 30th May, 1667, the batteries of the
Castle returned the salute of the English fleet,
which came to anchor in the roads under the
pennant of Sir Jeremiah Smythe; who came thither
in quest of the Dutch fleet, which had been bombarding
Burntisland.
Janies Duke of Alhany and York succeeded the
odious Duke Q€ Lauderdale in the administration
of Scottish affairs, and won the favour of all classes,
while he resided at Holyrood awaiting the issue of
the famous Bill of Exclusion, which would deprive
him of the throne of England on the demise of
his brother, and hence it became his earnest desire
to secure at least Scotland, the hereditary kingdom
of his race. OR his fixst Visit to &e Cask, on
30th October, 1680, Mons Meg br-rst when the
guns were saluting-a ring near the touchhole
giving way, which, saith Fountainhall, was deemed
by all men a bad omen. His lordship adds that
as the gun was charged by an English gunner,
required by the obnoxious Test Act as Commis.
Goner of the Scottish Treasury; and on the 12th
Scottish manners gradually gave way before the
affability of such entertainers as the Duchess
Mary d’ Este of Modena, and the Princess Anne,
“and the novel luxuries of the English court
formed an attraction to the Scottish grandees.
Tea was introduced for the first time into Scotland
on this occasion, and given by the duchess as a
great treat to the Scottish ladies. Balls, plays, and
masquerades were also attempted; but the last
proved too great an innovation on the rigid manners
of that period to be tolerated.”
The accession of King James VII. is thus recorded
by Lord Fountainhall (&‘ Decisions,” vol. i.) :
--“Feb. 6th, 1685. The Privy Council is called
extraordinary, on the occasion of an express sent
them by his royal highness the Duke of Albany,
telling that, on Monday the 2nd February, the king
was seized with a violent and apoplectic fit, which
stupefied him for four hours ; but, by letting twelve
ounces of blood and applying cupping-glasses to
his head, he revived. This unexpected surprise
put our statesmen in a hurly-burly, and was
followed by the news of the death of his Majesty,
which happened on the 7th of February, and came
home to us on the roth, in the morning ; whereupon
a theatre was immediately erected at the cross of
Edinburgh, and the militia companies drawn out
in arms ; and, at ten o’clock, the Chancellor,
Treasurer, and all the other officers of State, with
the nobility, lotds of Privy Council and Session, the
magistrates and town council of Edinburgh, came
to the cross, with the lion king-at-arms, his heralds
and trumpeters ; the Chance!;or carried his own
purse, and, weeping, proclaimed Jimes Duke af
Albany the ~nZy and undoubtcrt king of this realm, by
fhe-tiile of Jirnes VfL, the clerk registrar reading
the words of the Act to him, and all of them swore
faith and allegiance to him. Then the other proclamation
was then read, whereby King James VII.
continued all oAices till he had more time to send
down new commissions. . - . . Then the
Castle shot a round of guns, and sermon began,
wherein Mr. John Robertson did regret our loss,
but desiredour tears might be dried up when we
looked upon so brave and excellent a successor.
The Privy Council called foa all the seals, and broke
them, appointing new ones with the name of James
VII. to be made.”
In r68c the Earl of Argyie was committed to
the Castle for the third time for declining the oath
. having no cannon in all England so big as she.”
During the duke’s residence at Holyrood a splendid
of December ,an assize brought in their verdict, by
the Marquis of Montrose, his hereditary foe, finding ... These documents had been perfidiously sent to Scotland by General Monk. The marquis was condemned to ...

Vol. 1  p. 59 (Rel. 0.37)

politically. These documents had been perfidiously
sent to Scotland by General Monk. The marquis
was condemned to die the death of a traitor.
From the Castle he begged in vain a ten days’
respite, that he might crave pity of the king. ‘‘I
placed the crown upon his head,” said he, mourn-
- fully, “ and this is my reward ! ”
An escape was planned. He lay in bed for
some days feigning iuyess, and the Marchioness
came in a sedan to visit him. Being of the same
stature, he assumed her dress and coif; but when
about to step into the sedan his courage failed him,
and he abandoned the attempt. The night before
execution he was removed to the most ancient
prison in Edinburgh-an edifice in Mauchine’s
Close, long since removed, where the Marchioness
awaited him. “The Lord will requite it,” she exclaimed,
as she wept bitterly on his breast. “ Forbear,
Margaret,” said. he, calmly, “I pity my
enemies, and am as content in this ignominious
prison as in yonder Castle of Edinburgh.”
With his last breath he expressed abhorrence of
the death of Charles I, and on the 27th May his
head was struck from his body by the Maiden, at
the west end of the Tolbooth. By patent all his
ancient earldom and estates were restored to his
son, h r d Lorne, then a prisoner in the Castle,
where on one occasion he had a narrow escape,
when playing “ with hand bullets ” {bowls 3) one
of which, as Wodrow records, struck him senseless.
On the 30th May, 1667, the batteries of the
Castle returned the salute of the English fleet,
which came to anchor in the roads under the
pennant of Sir Jeremiah Smythe; who came thither
in quest of the Dutch fleet, which had been bombarding
Burntisland.
Janies Duke of Alhany and York succeeded the
odious Duke Q€ Lauderdale in the administration
of Scottish affairs, and won the favour of all classes,
while he resided at Holyrood awaiting the issue of
the famous Bill of Exclusion, which would deprive
him of the throne of England on the demise of
his brother, and hence it became his earnest desire
to secure at least Scotland, the hereditary kingdom
of his race. OR his fixst Visit to &e Cask, on
30th October, 1680, Mons Meg br-rst when the
guns were saluting-a ring near the touchhole
giving way, which, saith Fountainhall, was deemed
by all men a bad omen. His lordship adds that
as the gun was charged by an English gunner,
required by the obnoxious Test Act as Commis.
Goner of the Scottish Treasury; and on the 12th
Scottish manners gradually gave way before the
affability of such entertainers as the Duchess
Mary d’ Este of Modena, and the Princess Anne,
“and the novel luxuries of the English court
formed an attraction to the Scottish grandees.
Tea was introduced for the first time into Scotland
on this occasion, and given by the duchess as a
great treat to the Scottish ladies. Balls, plays, and
masquerades were also attempted; but the last
proved too great an innovation on the rigid manners
of that period to be tolerated.”
The accession of King James VII. is thus recorded
by Lord Fountainhall (&‘ Decisions,” vol. i.) :
--“Feb. 6th, 1685. The Privy Council is called
extraordinary, on the occasion of an express sent
them by his royal highness the Duke of Albany,
telling that, on Monday the 2nd February, the king
was seized with a violent and apoplectic fit, which
stupefied him for four hours ; but, by letting twelve
ounces of blood and applying cupping-glasses to
his head, he revived. This unexpected surprise
put our statesmen in a hurly-burly, and was
followed by the news of the death of his Majesty,
which happened on the 7th of February, and came
home to us on the roth, in the morning ; whereupon
a theatre was immediately erected at the cross of
Edinburgh, and the militia companies drawn out
in arms ; and, at ten o’clock, the Chancellor,
Treasurer, and all the other officers of State, with
the nobility, lotds of Privy Council and Session, the
magistrates and town council of Edinburgh, came
to the cross, with the lion king-at-arms, his heralds
and trumpeters ; the Chance!;or carried his own
purse, and, weeping, proclaimed Jimes Duke af
Albany the ~nZy and undoubtcrt king of this realm, by
fhe-tiile of Jirnes VfL, the clerk registrar reading
the words of the Act to him, and all of them swore
faith and allegiance to him. Then the other proclamation
was then read, whereby King James VII.
continued all oAices till he had more time to send
down new commissions. . - . . Then the
Castle shot a round of guns, and sermon began,
wherein Mr. John Robertson did regret our loss,
but desiredour tears might be dried up when we
looked upon so brave and excellent a successor.
The Privy Council called foa all the seals, and broke
them, appointing new ones with the name of James
VII. to be made.”
In r68c the Earl of Argyie was committed to
the Castle for the third time for declining the oath
. having no cannon in all England so big as she.”
During the duke’s residence at Holyrood a splendid
of December ,an assize brought in their verdict, by
the Marquis of Montrose, his hereditary foe, finding ... These documents had been perfidiously sent to Scotland by General Monk. The marquis was condemned to ...

Vol. 1  p. 58 (Rel. 0.37)

194 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Leith
of Brockhouse, contracted with the corporation to
provide accommodation for soldiers. His agreement
was to quarter three companies of infantry
“ in the back land in Leith, at Coatfield Gutter, and
up the back vennel, where the lane leadeth to the
Links,” for which he was to be paid by the town four
shillings per week for every man, on finding sufficient
bedding, coals, and candles ; but the speculation
did not prove remunerative, and much litigation ensued,
without consequences (Robertson).
On the 8th of February, 1746, when Cumberland
was on his march to the north from Perth, the armament
of 5,000 Hessian troops, under his brother-inlaw
the Prince of Hesse, arrived in Leith Roads to
assist in the suppression of the Jacobite clans. He
landed that night at the harbour, attended by the
Earl of Crawford (so famous in the wars of
George II.), by a son of the Duke of Wolfenbuttel,
and other persons of distinction ; and was taken to
Holyrood, under a salute from the Castle. On the
15th the Duke of Cumberland was to pax him a
fornial visit, and they held a council of war in Milton
House, after which the Duke set forth again, leaving
the Prince of Hesse to follow.
Many public persons flocked to welcome the
latter, and the ministers of Edinburgh and Leith,
we are told, poured forth torrents of vituperation on
“ the Pretender and his desperate mob,” for which,
to their astonishment, they were sharply rebuked by
the Prince, “with the sternest air he could assume ; ”
and he told them that Prince Charles was no pretender,
but the lawful grandson of James VII., as all
men knew; and that it was “very indecent and illmannered
in a gentleman, and base and unworthy
in a clergyman, to use reproachful and opprobrious
names ” (Constable’s Miscel., vol. xvi.). At a supper
a Whig gentleman made a remark derogatory
of Prince Charles, “to which his Serene Highness
replied with great warmth: ‘Sir, I know it to be
false. I am personally acquainted with him; he
has many great as well as good qualities, and is
inferior tu few generals in Europe. We made two
campaigns together, and he richly deserves the character
the Duke of Berwick gave him from Gaeta
to the Duke of Fitzjames.’”
The Hessian amy won the esteem of the people
of Edinburgh and Leith, and were the first to introduce
the use of bl’ack rajjee into this country ; but
it soon began the march northward, to uphold the
House of Hanover in the Highlands.
The utterly defenceless state in which the coast
of Scotland was left after the Union caused alarms
to be very easily created in time of war. Hence,
in July, 1759, the appearance of two large ships in
the Firth of Forth, standing off and on, with Dutch
colours flying, brought the cavalry in the Canongate,
and the infantry in the castle, under arms,
with a train of cannon, for the security of Leith,
where every man armed himself with whatever came
to hand. Why these ships displayed Dutch colours
we are not told, but they proved to be the Swaa
and one of our own sloops of war, full of impressed
men, going south from the Orkney Isles.
Four years afterwards peace was proclaimed with
France and Spain, by sound of trumpet by the
heralds, escorted by Leighton’s Regiment (the 32nd
Foot), which fired three volleys of musketry. The
ceremony was performed in four places-at the
gqtes of the castle and palace, the market cross, and
the Shore of Leith.
In 1771 Arnot mentions that the latter was very
ill-supplied with water, and that, as the streets were
neither properly cleaned nor lighted, an Act of
Parliament was passed in that year, appointing
certain persons from among the magistrates and irhabitants
of Edinburgh, the Lords of Session, and
Leith Corporation, commissioners of police, empowering
theln to put this Act in execution by
levying a sum not exceeding sixpence in the pound
upon the valued rent of Leith. “The great change
upon the streets of Leith,” he adds, “which has
since taken place, shows that this act has been
judiciously prepared and attentively executed.”
Before the great consternation excited in Leith
by the advent of Paul Jonesthe town was greatly
disturbed by two mutinies among the Highland
troops.
In 1778, the West Highland Fencibles, who had
recently brought with them to Edinburgh Castle
sixty-five French prisoners, resented bitterly some
innovations on their ancient Celtic garb-particularly
the cartridge-box-which they oddly alleged
“ no Highland regiment ever wore before ; ’’ and,
by a preconcerted plan, the whole battalion, when
paraded on the Castle Hill, simultaneously tore
them from their shoulders and flung them conteniptuously
on the ground, refusing to wear them. A
few days after this, the general commanding, having
made his own arrangements, marched four companies
of the corps to Leith, where they were surrounded
by the 10th Light Dragoons-now Hussars-
and compelled at the point of the sword to
accept the pouches, which were piled up on the
Links before them. By a drum-head court-martial
held on the spot, several of the ringleaders were
tried and flogged, after which the remainder were
marched to Berwick.
Meanwhile, a company which formed the guard
in the Castle, on hearing of this, openly revolted,
lowered the portcullis, drew up the bridge, loaded
. ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Leith of Brockhouse, contracted with the corporation to provide accommodation for ...

Vol. 6  p. 194 (Rel. 0.37)

and ‘married Henry Stuart Lord Methven, on
finding that the former was about to seize her
dower-lands, fled, with her third husband and all
his vassals, to the Castle of Edinburgh, and, joining
her son, prepared to resist to the last; but Earl
Archibald only laughed when he heard of it ; and,
displaying his banner, invested the fortress at the
head of his own vassals and those of the Crown.
Margaret found that she dared not disobey, and
her soldiers capitulated.
Bathed in tears, on her knees, at the outer gate,
quailing under the grim eye of one who was so
recently her husband, at his command she placed
the keys ‘‘ in the hands of her son, then a tall and
handsome yodth, imploring pardon for &er husband,
for his brother Sir James Stuart, and lastly for
herself. Angus smiled scornfully beneath his barred
helmet at her constrained submission, and haughtily
directed the Lord Methven and others to be imprisoned
in the towers from which they had so
lately defied him.”
In 1528, James, at last, by a midnight flight with
only two attendants, escaped the Douglas thrall,
and fled to Falkland Palace, after which event, with
a decision beyond his years, he proceeded to assert
his own authority, and summoned the estates to
meet him at Stirling. The Douglases were declared
outlaws and traitors, whereupon Angus and
all the barons of his name fled to England.
On the death of James V., in 1542, the Regent
Arran thoroughly repaired the Castle, and appointed
governor Sir James Hamilton of Stanehouse, a gallant
soldier, who proved worthy of the trust reposed
in him when, in 1544, Henry VIII., exasperated at
the Scots for declining to fulfil a treaty, made by an
English faction, affiancing the young Queen Mary
to his only son Edward, sent the Earl of Hertford
with an army, and zoo sail under Dudley Lord
PIsle to the Forth, with orders, so characteristic of
a ferociouk despot, “ to put all to fire and sword ; to
burn Edinburgh, raze, deface, and sack it ; to beat
down and overthrow the Castle ; to sack Holyrood
and as many towns and villages as he could; to
sack Leith, burn, and subvert it, and all the rest ;
putting man, woman, and child, to fire and sword,
without exception.”*
Hertford suddenly landed with 10,000 men near
an old fortalice, called the Castle of Wardie, on
the beach that bordered a desolate moor of the
same name, and seized Leith and Newhaven.
Cardinal Beaton and the Regent Arran lay in the
vicinity with an army. The former proposed battle,
but the latter, an irresolute man, declined, and -
Tytla.
retired in the night towards Linlithgow with his
hastily levied troops.
Lord Evers, with 4,000 horse, had now joined
the English from Berwick, and Hertford arrogantly
demanded the instant surrender of the infant
queen ; and being informe4 that the nation would
perish to a man rather than submit to terms so
ignominious, he advanced against Edinburgh, from
whence came the Provost, Sir Adam Otterburn, to
make terms, if possible ; but Hertford would have
nothing save an unconditional surrender of life and
property, together with the little queen, then at
Stirling.
“ Then,” said the Provost, “ ’twere better that
the city should stand on its defence!” He
galloped back to put himself at the head of the
citizens, who were in arms under the Blue Blanket.
The English, after being repulsed with loss at the
Leith Wynd Port, entered by the Water Gate,
advanced up the Canongate to the Nether Bow
Port, which they blew open by dint of artillery, and
a terrible slaughter of the citizens ensued. All resisted
manfully. Among others was one named
David Halkerston of Halkerston, who defended
the wynd that for ‘300 years bore his name, and
perished there sword in hand. Spreading through
the city like a flood, the English fired it in eight
places, and as the High Street was then encumbered
with heavy fronts of ornamented timber that erst had
grown in the forest of Drumsheugh, the smoke of
the blazing mansions actually drove the invaders
out to ravage the adjacent country, prior to which
they met with a terrible repulse in an attempt
to attack the Castle. Four days Hertford toiled
before it, till he had 500 men killed, an incredible
number wounded, and some of his guns dismounted
by the fire of the garrison. Led by Stanehouse,
the Scots made a sortie, scoured the Castle hill,
and carried off Hertford’s guns, among which
were some that they had lost at Flodden. The
English then retreated, leaving Edinburgh nearly
one mass of blackened ruin, and the whole country
burned and wasted for seven miles around it
When, three years after, the same unscrupulous
leader, as Duke of Somerset, won that disastrous
battle at Pinkie-a field that made 360 women of
Edinburgh widows, and where the united shout
raised by the victors as they came storming over
Edrnondston Edge was long remembered-stanehouse
was again summoned to surrender; but
though menaced by 26,000 of the English, he
maintained his charge till the retreat of Somerset
Instead of reconciling the Scots to an alliance
with England-in those days a measure alike
unsafe and unpalatable-all this strengthened the ... ‘married Henry Stuart Lord Methven, on finding that the former was about to seize her dower-lands, fled, with ...

Vol. 1  p. 43 (Rel. 0.37)

Stuart monarchs-a new era began in its history,
and it took a stahding as the chief burgh in
Scotland, the relations of which with England, for
generations after, partook rather of a vague prolonged
armistice in time of war than a settled
peace, and thus all rational progress was arrested
or paralysed, and was never likely to be otherwise
so long as the kings of England maintained the
insane pretensions of Edward I., deduced from
Brute the fabulous first king of Albion !
In 1383 Robert 11. was holding his court in
the Castle when he received there the ambassador
of Charles VI., on the 20th August, renewing the
ancient league with France. In the following year
a truce ended; the Earls of March and Douglas
began the war with spirit, and cut off a rich convoy
on its way to Roxburgh. This brought the Duke
of Lancaster and the Earl of Buckingham before
Edinburgh. Their army was almost innumerable
(according to Abercrombie, following Walsingham),
but the former spared the city in remembrance of
his hospitable treatment by the people when he was
among them, an exile from the English court-a
kindness for which the Scots cared so little that
they followed up his retreat so sharply, that he laid
the town and its great church in ashes when he returned
in the following year.
In 1390 Robert 111. ascended the throne, and ir.
that year we find the ambassadors of Charles VI.
again witnessing in the Castle the royal seal and signature
attached to the treaty for mutual aid and
defence against England in all time coming. This
brought Henry IV., as we have said, before the
Castle in 1400, with a well-appointed and numerous
army, in August.
From the fortress the young and gallant David
Duke of Rothesay sent a herald with a challenge
to meet him in mortal combat, where and when
he chose, with a hundred men of good blood on
each side, and determine the war in that way.
" But King Henry was in no humour to forego the
advantage he already possessed, at the head of a
more numerous army than Scotland could then
raise ; and so, contenting himself with a verbal
equivocation in reply to this knightly challenge, he
sat down with his numerous host before the Castle
till (with the usual consequences of the Scottish
reception of such'invaders) cold and rain, and -
twenty feet in length, with three or four large saws,
I for the common use, and six or more " cliekes of
castles, resorted to the simple expedient of driving
off all the cattle and sheep, provisions and goods,
even to the thatch of their houses, and leaving
nothing but bare walls for the enemy to wreak their
vengeance on; but they never put up their swords
till, by a terrible retaliating invasion into the more
fertile parts of England, they fully made up for
their losses. And this wretched state of affairs, for
nearly 500 years, lies at the door of the Plantagenet
and Tudor kings.
The aged King Robert 111. and his queen, the
once beautiful Annabella Drummond, resided in the
Castle and in the abbey of Holyrood alternately.
We are told that on one occasion, when the Duke
of Albany, with several of the courtiers, were conversing
one night on the ramparts of the former,
a singular light was seen afar off at the horizon, and
across the s t a q sky there flashea a bright meteor,
carrying behind it a long train of sparks.
'' Mark ye, sirs ! " said Albany, " yonder prodigy
portends either the ruin of a nation or the downfall
of some great prince ;a and an old chronicler omits
not to record that the Duke of Rothesay (who,
had he ascended the throne, would have been
David III.), perished soon after of famine, in the
hands of Ramornie, at Falkland.
Edinburgh was prosperous enough to be able to
contribute 50,000 merks towards the ransom of
James I., the gifted author of " The King's Quhair "
(or Book), who had been lawlessly captured at
sea in his boyhood by the English, and was left
in their hands for nineteen years a captive by his
designing uncle the Regent Albany ; and though
his plans for the pacification of the Highlands kept
him much in Perth, yet, in 1430, he was in
Edinburgh with Queen Jane and the Court, when
he received the surrender of Alexander Earl of
ROSS, who had been in rebellion but was defeated
by the royal troops in Lochaber.
As yet no Scottish noble had built a mansion in
Edinburgh, where a great number of the houses were
actually constructed of wood from the adjacent
forest, thatched with straw, and few were more than
two storeys in height ; but in the third Parliament
of James I., held at Perth in 1425, to avert the
conflagrations to which the Edinbiirghers were so
liable, laws were ordained requiring the magistrates
to have in readiness seven or eight ladders of
his progress or retreat."*
When unable to resist, the people of the entire
town and country, who were not secured in
* Wilson's ''Memorials." .
fired ;' and that no fire was to be conveyed from
one house to another within the town, unless in a
covered vessel or lantern. Another law forbade'
people on visits to live with their friends, but to ... monarchs-a new era began in its history, and it took a stahding as the chief burgh in Scotland, the ...

Vol. 1  p. 27 (Rel. 0.36)

the N ~ S , attracted by the dampness of the soil,
where for ages the artificial loch lay. A few feet
eastward of the tower there was found in the bank,
in 1820, a large coffin of thick fir containing three
skeletons, a male and two females, supposed to be
those of a man named Sinclair and his two sisters,
who were all drowned‘in the loch in 1628 for a
horrible crime.
Eastward of this tower of the 15th century are the
remains of a long, low archway, walled with rubble,
but arched with well-hewn stones, popularly known
as “the lion’s den,” and which has evidently formed
a portion of that secret escape or covered way
from the Castle (which no Scottish fortress was ever
without), the tradition concerning which is of general
and very ancient belief; and this idea has been still
further strengthened by the remains of a similar
subterranean passage being found below Brown’s
Close, on the Castle Hill. At the highest part of
the latter stood the ancient barrier gate of 1450,
separating the fortress from the city. This gate
was temporarily replaced on the occasion of the
visit of George IV, in 1822, and by an iron
chuaux de fdse-to isolate the 82nd Regiment and
garrison generally-during the prevalence of Asiatic
cholera, ten years subsequently.
There stood on the north side of the Castle
Hill an ancient church, some vestiges of which were
visible in Maitland‘s time, in 1753, and which he
supposed to have been dedicated to St, Andrew the
patron of Scotland, and which he had seen referred
to in a deed of gift of twenty merks yearly, Scottish
money, to the Trinity altar therein, by Alexander
Curor, Vicar of Livingstone, 20th December, 1488.
In June, 1754, when some workmen were levelling
this portion of the Castle Hill, they discovered a
subterranean chamber, fourteen feet square,
wherein lay a crowned image of the Virgin, hewn
of very white stone, two brass altar candlesticks,
some trinkets, and a few ancient Scottish and French
coins. By several remains of burnt matter and two
large cannon balls being also found there, this
edifice was supposed to have been demolished
durbg some of the sieges undergone by the Castle
since the invention of artillery. Andin December,
1849, when the Castle Hill was being excavated
for the new reservoir, several finely-carved stones
were found in what was understood to be the
foundation of this chapel or of Christ’s Church,
which was commenced there in 1637, and had
actually proceeded so far that Gordon of Rothiemay
shows it in his map with a high-pointed spire,
but it was abandoned, and its materials used in
the erection of the present church at the Tron.
Under all this were found those pre-historic human
remains referred to in our first chapter. This was
the site of the ancient water-house. It was not
until ~ 6 2 1 that the citizens discovered the necessity
for a regular supply of water beyond that which
the public wells with their watef-carriers afforded.
It cannot be supposed that the stagnant fluid of the
north and south lochs could be fit for general use,
yet, in 1583 and 1598, it was proposed to supply
the city from the latter. Eleven years after the
date above mentioned, Peter Brusche, a German
engineer, contracted to supply the city with water
from the lands of Comiston, in a leaden pipe of three
inches’ bore, for a gratuity of 650. By the year
1704 the increase of population rendered an additional
supply from Liberton and the Pkntland Hills
necessary. As years passed on the old water-house
proved quite inadequate to the wants of the city.
It was removed in 1849, and in its place now stands
the great reservoir, by which old and new Edinburgh
are alike supplied with water unexampled in
purity, and drawn chiefly from an artificial lake
in the Pentlands, nearly seven miles distant. On
the outside it is only one storey in height, with a
tower of 40 feet high; but within it has an area I 10
feet long, go broad, and 30 deep, containing two
millions of gallons ofwater, which can be distributed
through the entire city at the rate of 5,000 gallons
per minute,
Apart from the city, embosomed among treesand
though lower down than this reservoir, yet
perched high in air-upon the northern bank of the
Esplanade, stands the little octagonal villa of Allan
Ramsay, from the windows of which the poet would
enjoy an extensive view of all the fields, farms, and
tiny hamlets that lay beyond the loch below, with
the vast panorama beyond-the Firth of Forth,
with the hills of Fife and Stirling. “The sober
and industrious life of this exception to the race
of poets having resulted in a small competency,
he built this oddly-shaped house in his latter days,
designing to enjoy in it the Horatian quiet he had
so often eulogised in his verse. The story goes:
says Chambers in his ‘‘ Traditions,” “ that, showing
it soon after to the clever Patrick Lord Elibank,
with much fussy interest in its externals and accommodation,
he remarked that the vyags were already
at work on the subject-they likened it to a goosepie
(owing to the roundness of the shape). ‘ Indeed,
Allan,’ said his lordship, ‘now I see you in it I think
the wags are not far wrong.‘ ”
Ramsay, the author of the most perfect pastoral
poem in the whole scope of British literature, and
a song writer of great merit, was secretly a
Jacobite, though a regular attendant in St. Giles’s
Church. Opposed to the morose manners of his ... N ~ S , attracted by the dampness of the soil, where for ages the artificial loch lay. A few feet eastward of ...

Vol. 1  p. 82 (Rel. 0.36)

‘49 _- George S1rret.l THE ASSEMBLY ROOMS.
ducted in Europe; but the regulations as issued for
them a century ago may amuse their frequenters in
the present day, and we copy them verbatim.
‘(NEW ASSEMBLY ROOMS,
GEORGE STREET.
(‘ THE proprietors finding that the mode they proposed for
subscribing to the assemblies this winter has not met with
general approbation, did, at a general meeting, held 12th
January, come to the following resolutions as to the mode of
admission in future :-
‘* Subscription books are open at the house of the Mastez
of the Ceremonies, Wlliam Graham, Esq., No. 66, Princes
Street, and Mr. William Sanderson, merchant, in the
Luckenbooths, to either of whom the nobility and gentry
intending to subscribe are requested to send their names and
subscription money, when they will receive their tickets.
The first assembly (of the season) to be on Thursday, the
29th January, 1789.”
Prior to the erection of the adjoining music
hall many great banquets and public meetings
OLD PHYSICIANS’ HALL, GEORGE STREET, 1829. (Aftr Shrpkml.)
((1. That the ladies’ subscription shall be one guinea.
“ 11. That subscriptions for gentlemen who are proprietors
of the rooms shall be one guinea
“ 111. That the subscription for gentlemen who are nut,
proprietors of the rooms shall be two guineas.
“ IV. That each subscriber shall have twenty-four admission
tickets.
“ V. Subscribers when absent to have the power of granting
two of these tickets for each assembly, either to a lady
or gentleman, and no more ; when present, only one ; and no
ticket will procure admittance unless dated and signed by
the granter ; and the tickets thus granted are not transferable.
“VI. Each non-subscriber to pay 3s. at the door on
presenting his ticket.
“ VII. Each director is allowed two additional tickets
extraordinary for each asseably, m-hich he may transfer,
addmg the word Dirccfiw to his signature.
“VIII. No admission wit/rout a fkkd on any arcounl
Yriractw.
took place in the great ball-room. One of the
most interesting of these was the second ovation
bestowed on the famous Black Watch in 1816.
There had been a grand reception of the
regiment in 1802, on its return from Egypt, when
a new set of colours, decorated with the Sphinx,
after a prayer by Principal Baird, were bestowed
upon the war-worn Highland battalion on the
Castle Hill by General Vyse, amid a vast concourse
of enthsiastic spectators ; but a still greater
ovstion and a banquet awaited the regiment on
its return to Edinburgh Castle in the year after
Waterloo.
It entered the city in two divisions on the 19th
and 20th March, 1816. Colonel Dick of Tullybole,
who afterwards fell in India, rode at the head ... _- George S1rret.l THE ASSEMBLY ROOMS. ducted in Europe; but the regulations as issued for them a century ago ...

Vol. 3  p. 149 (Rel. 0.36)

Edinburgh Castle.] KIRKALDY’S SURRENDER. 49
fourth, under Sir Henry Lee, were somewhere near
St. Cuthbeds church ; while the fifth, under Sir
Thomas‘Sutton, was on the line of Princes Street,
and faced King Davids Tower.
All these guns opened simultaneously on Sunday,
the 17th of May, by salvoes; and the shrieks of
the women in the Castle were distinctly heard
in the camp of the Regent and in the city.
The fire was maintained on both sides with unabated
vigour-nor were the arquebuses idle-till
the 23rd, when Sutton’s guns having breached
sieged depended chiefly for water. This great
battery then covered half of the Esplanade
Holinshed mentions another spring, St. Margaret‘s
Well, from which Kirkaldy’s men secretly obtained
water till the besiegers poisoned it ! By this time
the survivors were so exhausted by toil and want
of food as to be scarcely able to bear armour, or
work the remaining guns. On the 28th Kirkaldy
requested a parley by beat of drum, and was
lowered over the ruins by ropes in his armour, to
arrange a capitulation ; but Morton would hear
ANCIENT POSTERN hND TURRET NEAR THE QUEEN’S POST.
Davfd’s Tower, the enormous mass, with all its
guns and men, and with a roar as of thunder, came
crashing over the rocks, and masses of it must have
fallen into the loch zoo feet below. The Gate
Tower with the portcullis and Wallace’s Tower,
were battered down by the 24th. The guns of
the queen’s garrison were nearly silenced, now, and
cries of despair were heard. The great square
Peel and the Constable’s Tower, with the curtain
between, armed with brass cannon-dikes of
great antiquity-came crashing down in succession,
and their d&is choked up the still existing drawwells.
Still the garrison did not quite lose
heart, until the besiegers got passession of the
Spur, within which was the well on which the bea
of nothing now save an unconditional surrender,
so the red flag of defiance was pulled down on the
following day. By the Regent’s order the Scottish
companies occupied the breaches, with orders to
exclude all Englishmen. “The governor delivered
his sword to Sir William Drury on receiving the
‘solemn assurance of being restored to his estatc
and liberty at the intercession of Q-ueen Elizabeth
The remnant of his gamson marched into the city
in armour with banners displayed ; there came
forth, with the Lord Home, twelve knights, zoo
soldiers, and ten boys, with several ladies, including
the Countess of Argyle.” The brave commander
was basely delivered up by Drury to the
I vindictive power of the Regent j and he and his ... Castle.] KIRKALDY’S SURRENDER. 49 fourth, under Sir Henry Lee, were somewhere near St. Cuthbeds church ...

Vol. 1  p. 49 (Rel. 0.36)

with whom she took up her abode. After having
effectually lulled all suspicion, she affected to remember
a vow she had made to visit the White
Kirk of Brechin (according to the '' Chronicles of
Pitscottie "), and bade adieu to the Chancellor overnight,
with many tender recommendations of the
young king to his care. She set forth betimes next
morning with her retinue, and baggage borne on
sumpter horses. In one of the arks or chests
:trapped on one of these she had the young king
concealed, with his own consert. He was thus
conveyed to Leith, and from thence by water to
Stirling, where she placed him in the hands of the
Regent Livingstone, while the haughty Douglas
kept aloof, as one who took no interest in the
petty intrigues around the throne. Livingstone
now unfurled the royal standard, levied troops, and
laid siege to the Castle of Edinburgh ; but the wary
Chanceflor, finding that he had been outwitted,
pretended to compromise matters by delivering
the keys of the gates into the hands of the king,
after which they all supped together in the great
hall of the fortress. Crichton was confirmed in his
ofice of Chancellor, and the other as regent and
guardian of the royal person, a state of affairs not
fated to last long.
Livingstone having quarrelled with the queen,
she carried off the young king again, and restored
him to the custody of the Chancellor in the Castle
of Edinburgh. Under the guidance of the Bishops
of Moray and Aberdeen, then resident in the city,
a conference was held in the church of St. Giles,
' making him and his rival joint guardians, which,
from their mutual dread and hatred of the Earl of
Douglas, led to an amicable arrangement, and the
young king chose the Castle as his future place of
residence.
The great house..of. Dauglas,had naw reached
the zenith of its baronial power and pride. The
earl possessed Annabdale, Galloway, and other extensive
dominions in. the southern counties, where
all men bowed to his authority. He had the
dukedom of Touraine and lordship of Longueville
in France. He was allied to the royal family of
Scotland, and had at his back a powerful force of
devoted vassals, trained to arms, led by brave
knights, who were ripe at all times for revolt and
strife.
'' The Regent and the Chancellor are both alike
to me," said he, scornfully ; " 'tis no matter which
may overcome, and if both perish the country
will be the better ; and it is a pleasant sight for
honest men to.see such fencers yoked together."
But soon after the potent Douglas died at
Restalrig-h June, 144o-and was succeeded by
his son William, then in his sixteenth year ; and
now the subtle and unscrupulous old Chancellor
thought that the time had come to destroy with
safety a family he alike feared and detested. In
the flush of his youth and p...12, fired by the
flattery of his dependents, the young earl, in the
retinue and splendour that surrounded him far
surpassed his sovereign. He never rode abroad
with less than two thousand lances under his
banner, well horsed, and sheathed in mail, and
he actually, according to Buchanan, sent as his
ambassadors to the court of France Sir Malcolm
Fleming and Sir John Lauder of the Bass, to
obtain for him a new patent of the duchy of
Touraine, which had been conferred on his grandfather
by Charles VII. Arrogance so unwonted
and grandeur so great alarmed both Crichton and
Livingstone, who could not see where all this was
to end.
Any resort to violence would lead to civil war.
He was therefore, with many flatteries, lured to
partake of a banquet in the Castle of Edinburgh,
accompanied by his brother the little Lord David
and Sir Malcolm Fleming of Cumbernauld. With
every show of welcome they were placed at the
same table with the king, while the portcullis was
suddenly lowered, the gates carefully shut, and
their numerous and suspicious train excluded.
Towards the close of the entertainment a black
bull's head-an ancient Scottish symbol that some
one was doomed to death-was suddenly placed
upon the board. The brave boys sprang up, and
drew their swords; but a band of Crichton's
vassals, 'in complete armour, rushed in from a
chamber called the Tiring-house, and dragged
forth the three guests, despite the tears and entreaties
of the young king.
I They were immediately beheaded-on the 24th
of November, I 440-according to Godscroft, '' in
the back court of the Castle that lyeth to the west"
(where the barracks now stand); in the great
hall, according to Balfour. They were buried in
the fortress, and when, in 1753, some workmen, in
digging a foundation there, found the plate and.
handles of a coffin all of which were pure gold,
they were supposed tp belong to that in which
the Earl of Douglas was placed. Singular to say,
Crichton was never brought to trial for this terrible
outrage. " Venomous viper ! I' exclaims the old
historian of the Douglases, "that could hide so
deadly poyson under so faire showes ! unworthy
tongue, unelesse to be cut oute for example to all
ages ! A lion or tiger for cruelty of heart-a waspe
or spider for spight ! " He also refers to a rude
ballad on the subject, beginning ... whom she took up her abode. After having effectually lulled all suspicion, she affected to remember a vow ...

Vol. 1  p. 30 (Rel. 0.36)

Tine Lawomarket.1 MAJOR SOMERVILLE. 9s
visitor could be fully visCd before admission was
accorded. In many other instances the entrances
to the turnpike stairs had loopholes for arrows or
musketry, and the archways to the closes and
wynds had single and sometimes double gates, the
great hooks of which still remain in some places,
and on which these were last hung in 1745, prior
to the occupation of the city by the Highlanders.
The Lawnmarket was bounded on the west by
the Butter Tron, or Weigh-house, and on the east
by the Tolbooth, which adjoined St. Giles’s, thus
forming in earlier times the greatest open space,
save the Grassmarket, within the walls. The Weighhouse,
built on ground which was granted to the
citizens by David II., in 1352, was a clumsy and
hideous edifice, rebuilt in 1660, on the site of the
previous building, which Gordon of Rothiemay, in
his map of 1647, shows to have been rather an
ornate edifice, two storeys in height, with a double
#outside stair on the south side, and a steeple and
vane at the east end, above an archway, where
enormous quantities of butter and cheese were
continually being disposed of.
In 1640 the Lawnmarket was the scene of a
remarkable single combat, of which we have a very
clearly-detailed account in ‘‘ The Memoirs of the
Somervilles.” In that year, when Major Somerville
of Drum commanded the garrison of Covenanting
troops in Edinburgh Castle, a Captain
Crawford, who, though not one of his officers,
deemed himself privileged to enter the fortress at
all times, walked up to the gates one morning, and,
on finding them closed, somewhat peremptorily
demanded admission. The sentinel within told
him that he must ‘( before entering, acquaint Major
Somerville with his name and rank.” To this
Crawford replied, furiously, “ Your major is neither
a soldier nor a gentleman, and if he were without
this gate, and at a distance from his guards, I would
tell him that he was a pitiful cullion to boot! ”
The irritated captain was retiring down the
Castle Hill, when he was overtaken, rapier in hand,
by Major Somerville, to whom the sentinel had
found means to convey the obnoxious message
with mischievous precision.
“Sir,” said the major, “you must permit me to
accompany you a little way, and then you shall
know more of my mind.” “ I will wait on you where
you please,” replied Crawford, grimly; and they
walked together in silence to the south side of the
Greyfriars churchyard, at all times a Ionely place.
” Nazi," said Somerville, unsheathing his sword,
“I am without the Castle gates and at a distance
from my guards. Draw and make good your
threat I ” Instead of defending himself like a man
of honour, Crawford took off his hat, and begged
pardon, on which Somerville jerked his long bowlhilted
rapier into its sheath, and said, with scorn,
(‘ You have neither the discretion of a gentleman,
nor the courage of a soldier ; begone for a coward
and fool, fit only for-Bedlam !” and he returned
tb the Castle, accompanied by his officers, who
had followed them to see the result of the quarrel.
It is said that Crawford had been offended at
not being invited to a banquet given in the Castle
by Somerville to old General Ruthven, on‘the
day after the latter surrendered. As great liberties
were taken with him after this in consequence of
his doubtful reputation for ’ courage, he resolved,
by satisfaction demanded in a public and desperate
manner, to retrieve his lost honour, or die in
seeking it. Thus, one forenoon, about eleven
o’clock,’ when the Major was on his way to visit
General Sir Alexander Leslie, and proceeding
down the spacious Lawnmarket, which at that hour
was always thronged with idlers, he was suddenly
confronted by Captain Crawford, who, unsheathing
both sword and dagger, exclaimed, ‘‘ If you be a
pretty man-draw f ” With a thick walking cane
recently presented to him by General Ruthven,
the Major parried his onset and then drew his
sword, which was a half-rapier slung in a shoulderbelt,
and attacked the Captain so briskly, that he
was forced. to fall back, pace by pace, fighting desperately,
from the middle of the Lawnmarket to the
goldsmiths’ booths, where Somerville struck him
down on the causeway by the iron pommel of his ‘
sword, and disarmed him. Several of Somerville’s
soldiers now came upon the scene, and by these
he would have been slain, had not the yictor protected
him; but for this assault upon & superior
officer he was thrown into prison, where he lay for
a year, heavily manacled, and in a wretched condition,
till Somerville’s wife,who resided at the Drum
House, near Gilmerton, and to whom he had Written
an imploring letter, procured his liberation.
Here in the Lawnmarket, in the lofty tenement
dated 1690, on the second floor,’ is the “shop”
where that venerable drug, called the “Grana .
Angelica,” but better known among the country
people as (‘Anderson’s Pills,” are sold. They
took their origin from a physician of the time
of Charles I., who gave them his name, and of
whom a long account‘ was given in the University
Magazine, and locally their fame lasted for nearly
250 years. From his daughter Lilias Anderson,
the patent, granted by James VII., came ‘‘tg
Thomas Weir, chirurgeon, in Edinburgh,” who left
the secret of preparing the pills to his daughter,
Mrs. Irving, who died in ~837, at the age of
. ... Lawomarket.1 MAJOR SOMERVILLE. 9s visitor could be fully visCd before admission was accorded. In many other ...

Vol. 1  p. 95 (Rel. 0.36)

50 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Edinburgh Castlc.
brother Sir James, with two burgesses of the City,
were drawn backwards in carts to the market
cross, where they were hanged, and their heads
were placed upon the ruined castle walls. Within
the latter were found twenty-two close carts for
ammunition, and 2,400 cannon balls.
The whole gamson were thrust into the dungeons
of adjacent castles in the county; and four soldiers-
Glasford, Stewart, Moffat, and Millar-“declared
traitors ” for having assisted Kirkaldy “ in
the demolishing and casting down of the bigginis,
showting great and small peissis, without fear of
God or remorse of conscience,“ had to do public
penance at one of the doors of St. Giles’s for
three days ‘‘ cleid in sack cleith.” *
The Regent made his brother, George Douglas
of Parkhead (one of the assassins of Rizzio),
governor, and he it was who built the present half- . moon battery, and effected other repairs, so that
a plan still preserved shows that by 1575 the fortress
had in addition thereto eight distinct towep,
facing the town and south-west, armed by forty
pieces of cannon. exclusive of Mons Meg, arquebusses,
and cut-throats. Over the new gate Morton
placed, above the royal arms, those of his own
family, a fact which was not forgotten when he lost
his head some years after.
In 1576, Alexander Innes of that ilk being
summoned to Edinburgh concerning a lawsuit with
a clansman, Innes of Pethknock, met the latter
by chance near the market cross-then the chief
promenade-and amid high words struck him dead
with his dagger, and continued to lounge quietly
near the body. He was made prisoner in the
Castle, and condemned to‘lose his head; but procured
a remission from the corrupt Regent by
relinquishing one of his baronies, and gave an
entertainment to all his friends. “If I had my
foot once loose,” said he, vauntingly, ‘‘I would
fain see if this Earl of Morton dare take possession
of my land!” This, though a jest, was repeated
to Morton, who retained the bond for the barony,
but, according to the history of the Innes family,
had the head of Innes instantly struck off within
the fortress.
So odious became the administration of Morton
that, in 1578, James VI., though only twelve years
of age, was prevailed upon by Argyle and Athole
to summon the peers, assume the government, and
dismiss Morton, an announcement made by heralds
at the cross on the 12th of March, under three
salutes from the new half-moon ; but it was not
until many scuffles with the people, culminating in
Keith’s “Register”; “Maitknd Club nIiiellury.”
a deadly brawl which roused the whole city in arms
and brought the craftsmen forth with morions,
plate sleeves, and steel jacks, and when the entire
High Street bristled with pikes and Jedwood axes,
that Parkhead, when summoned, gave up the fortress
to the Earl of Mar, to whom the Ezrl of Morton
delivered the regalia and crown jewels, conformably
to an ancient inventory, receiving in return a
pardon for all his misdemeanours-a document
that failed to save him, when, in 1580, he was condemned
and found guilty of that crime for which
he had put so many others to death-the murder
of Darnley-and had his head struck off by the
“Maiden,” an instrument said to be of his own adop
tion, dying unpitied amid the execratidns of assembled
thousands. Calderwood relates that as he
was being conducted captive to the Castle, a woman,
whose husband he had put to death, cursed him
loudly on her bare knees at the Butter Tron. His
head was placed on a port of the city.
From this period till the time of Charles I. little
concerning the Castle occurs in the Scottish annals,
save the almost daily committal of State prisoners
to its dungeons, some of which are appalling
places, hewn out of the living rock, and were then
destitute nearly of all light. From one of these,
Mowbray of Barnbougle, incarcerated in 1602 for
slaying a servant of James VI. in the palace of
Dunfermline, in attempting to escape, fell headlong
through the air, and was dashed on the stony
pathway that led to the Royal Mews 300 feet
below. His body was quartered, and placed on the
Cross, Rether Bow, Potter Row, and West Ports.
In May, 1633, Charles I. visited the capital of’
his native country, entering it on the 16th by the
West Port, amid a splendour of many kinds ; and
on the 17th, under a salute of fifty-two guns, he
proceeded to the Castle attended by sixteen.
coaches and the Horse Guards. He remained in
the royal lodgings one night, and then returned
to Holyrood. On the 17th of June he was again
in the Castle, when the venerable Earl of Mar gave
a magnificent banquet in the great hall, where
many of the first nobles in Scotland and England
were, as Spalding states, seated on each side
of Charles. To that hall he was conducted next
morning, and placed on a throne under avelvet
canopy, by the Duke of Lennox, Lord High
Chamberlain of Scotland. The peers of the realm
then entered in procession wearing their crimson
velvet robes, each belted with his sword, and with
his coronet borne before him. The Chancellor,
Viscount Dupplin, addressed him in the name of the
Parliament. Charles was then conducted to the gate,
from whence began a procession to Holyrood ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Edinburgh Castlc. brother Sir James, with two burgesses of the City, were drawn ...

Vol. 1  p. 50 (Rel. 0.36)

Leith.] THE HIGHLAND MUTINEERS ON THE SHORE. 195 - .
the battery guns facing the city-which was filled
with consternation-while a rather helpless force of
cavalry took possession of the Castle HilL The
crisis was, indeed, a perilous one, as the vaults of
the fortress were full of French and Spanish prisoners
of war, while a French squadron was cruising off the
mouth of the Forth, and had already captured some
vessels. Next day the company capitulated, all
save one, who, with his claymore, assailed an officer
of the Ioth, who struck him down and had him
made a prisoner.
The cavalry occupied the fortress until the arrival
of Lord Lennox’s regiment, the 26th or Cameronians,
when‘a court-martial was held. One Highlander
was sentenced to be shot, and another to
receive a thousand lashes ; but both were forgiven
on condition of serving beyond the seas in a battalion
of the line.
Another mutiny occurred in the April of the
following year.
Seventy Highlanders enlisted for the 42nd and
71st (then known as the Master of Lovat’s
Regiment) when marched to Leith, refused to
embark, a mischievous report having been spread
that they were to be draughted into a Lowland
corps, and thus deprived of the kilt; and so much
did they resent this, that they resolved to resist to
death. On the evening they reached Leith the
following despatch was delivered at Edinburgh
Castle by a mounted dragoon :-
(‘ To Governor Wemyss, or the Commanding
Officer of the South Fencible Regiment. 7
“ Headquarters, Apri!, I 7 79.
“ SrR,-The draughts of the 71st Regiment
having refused to embark, you will order 200 men
of the South Fencibles to march immediately to
Leith to seize these mutineers and march them
prisoners to the castle of Edinburgh, to be detained
there until further orders.-I am, &c.,
“ JA. AmLPnus OUGHTON.”
In obedience to this order from the General
Commanding, three captains, six subalterns, and
zoo of the Fencibles under Major Sir James
Johnstone, Bart., of Westerhall, marched to Leith
on this most unpleasant duty, and found the
seventy Highlanders on the Shore, drawn up in
line with their backs to the houses, their bayoiiets
fixed, and muskets loaded. Sir James drew up his
detachment in such a manner as to render escape
impossible, and then stated the positive orders he
would be compelled to obey.
His words were translated into Gaelic by Sergeant
Ross, who acted as interpreter, and who,
after some expostulation, turned to Sir James,
saying that all was over-his countrymen would
neither surrender nor lay down their arms. On
this Johnston‘e gave the order to prepare for firing
-but added, “Recover ams.”
A Bighlander at that moment attempted to
escape, but was seized by a sergeant, who was
instantly bayoneted, while another, coming to the
rescue with his pike, was shot. The blood of the
Fencibles was roused now, and they poured in
more than one volley upon the Highlanders, of
whom twelve were shot dead, and many mortally
wounded. The fire was returned promptly enough,
but with feeble effect, as the Highlanders had only
a few charges given to them by a Leith porter;
thus only two Fencibles were killed and one
wounded ; but Captain James Mansfield (formerly
of the 7th or Queen’s Dragoons), while attempting
to save the latter, was bayoneted by a furious
Celt, whose charge he vainly sought to parry with
his sword. A corporal shot the mutineer through
the head: the Fencibles-while a vast crowd of
Leith people looked on: appalled by a scene so unusual-
now closed up with charged bayonets, disarmed
the whole, and leaving the Shore strewn
with dead and dying, returned to the Castle with
twenty-five prisoners, and the body of Captain
Mansfield, who left a widow with six children, and
was interred in the Greyfriars churchyard.
The scene of this tragedy was in front of the
old Ship Tavern and the tenement known as the
Britannia Inn.
After a court-martial was held, on the 29th ot
May, the garrison, consisting of the South and West
Fencibles and the cavalry, paraded on the Castle
Hill, in three sides of a hollow square, facing inwards.
With a band playing the dead march, and
the drums muffled and craped, three of these Highland
recruits, who had been sentenced to death,
each stepping slowly behind his open coffin, were
brought by an escort down the winding pathway,
under the great wall of the Half-moon Battery,
and placed in the open face of the square by the
Provost-marshal. They were then desired to kneel,
while their sentence was read to them-Privates
Williamson and MacIvor of the Black Watch, and
Budge of the 7 1st-to be shof fo death f
The summer morning was bright and beautiful ;
but a dark cloud rested on every face while the
poor prisoners remained on their knees, each man
in his coffin, and a Highland officer interpreted the
sentence in Gaelic. They were pale and composed,
save Budge, who was suffering severely from wounds
received at Leith, and looked emaciated and
ghastly. Their eyes were now bound up, and the
firing party were in the act of taking aim at the
. ... THE HIGHLAND MUTINEERS ON THE SHORE. 195 - . the battery guns facing the city-which was filled with ...

Vol. 6  p. 195 (Rel. 0.36)

to extinct Scottish regiments, and various weapons
from the field of Culloden, particularly the Doune
steel pistols, of beautiful workmanship, worn by
Highland gentlemen.
Near this rises the Hawk Hi€l, where kings and
nobles practised falconry of old; on the left is
the Gothic arch of the citadel; and on the right
* rises the great mass of the hideous and uncomfortable
infantry barracks, erected partly on the
archery butts, in 1796, and likened by Sir Walter
Scott to a vulgar cotton-mill. This edifice is 150
feet long, and four storeys high to the westward,
where it rises on a massive arcade, and from its
windows can be had a magniticent prospect, extend-
'ing almost to the smoke of Glasgow, and the blue
cone of Ben Lomond, fifty miles distant.
On the south-west is Drury's gun-hattery, so
named from the officer of Scottish Engineers who
built it in 1689, and in its rear is the square prisonhouse,
built in 1840. Passing through the citadel
gate, we find on the left the modern water-tank,
the remains of the old shot-yard, the door of which
has now disappeared; but on the gablet above it
was a thistle, with the initials D.G.M.S. Here is
the king's bastion, on the north-west verge of the
citadel, and on the highest cliff of the Castle rock.
Here, too, are St Margaret's Chapel, which we
have already described, Mons Meg, frowning, as
of old, from the now-ruinous mortar battery, and
a piece of bare rock, the site of a plain modern
chapel, the pointed window of which was once
conspicuous from Princes Street, but which was
demolished by Colonel Moodie, R.E., in expectation
fhat one more commodious would be erected.
But macy years have since passed, and this has
never been done, consequently there is now no
chapel for the use of the troops of any religious
denomination; while the office of chaplain has
also been abolished, at
a time when Edinburgh
has been made a dep8t
centre for Scottish regiments,
and in defiance
of the fact that the
Castle is under the
Presbytery, and is a
parish of the city.
The platform of the
half-moon battery is
510 feet above the level
of the Forth. It is
armed with old 18 and
24 pounders, one of
which is, at one P.M.,
fired by electricity as a
time-gun, by a wire from the Calton Hill. It is
furnished with a lofty flagstaff, an iron grate for
beacon fires, and contains a draw-well IIO feet
deep. From its massive portholes Charles 11. saw
the rout of Cromwell's troops at Lochend in 1650;
and from there the Corsican chief Saoli in 1771,
the Grand Duke Nicholas in 1819, George IV. in
1822, Queen Victoria, and many others of note,
have viewed the city that stretched at their feet
below.
Within this battery is the ancient square or
Grand Parade, where some of the most interesting
buildings in the Castle are to be found, as it is
on the loftiest, most precipitous, and inaccessible
portion of the isolated rock. Here, abutting on
the very verge of the giddy cliff, overhanging the
Grassmarket, several hundred feet below, stands
all that many sieges have left of the ancient royal
palace, forming the southern and easterr. sides of
the quadrangle. The chief feature of the former is
a large battlemented edifice, now nearly destroyed
by its conversion into a military hospital. This
was the ancient hall of the Castle, in length 80
feet by 33 in width, and 27 in height, and
lighted by tall mullioned windows from the south,
wherein Parliaments have sat, kings have feasted
and revelled, ambassadors been received, and
treaties signed for peace or war. Some remains
of its ancient grandeur are yet discernible amid
the new floors and partitions that have been run
through it. At the summit of the principal staircase
is a beautifully-sculptured stone corbel representing
a well-cut female face, ornamented on each
side by a volute and thistle. On this rests one of
the original beams of the open oak roof, and on each
side are smaller beams with many sculptured shields,
all defaced by the whitewash of the barrack
pioneers and hospital orderlies. " The view from
CHEST IN WHICH THE REGALIA WERE FOUND.
the many windows on
this side is scarcely surpassed
by any other in
the capital. Immediately
below are the picturesque
old houses of
the Grassmarket and
West Port, crowned by
the magnificent towers
of Heriot's Hospital.
From this deep abyss
the hum of the neighbouring
city rises up,
mellowed by the distance,
into one pleasing
voice of life and industry
; while far beyond a ... extinct Scottish regiments, and various weapons from the field of Culloden, particularly the Doune steel ...

Vol. 1  p. 76 (Rel. 0.35)

soldiers of the garrison made a fruitless defence
till the 6th of June, 1296, when they were compelled
to capitulate-the weather being intensely
sultry and the wells having dried up. In accordance
with Edward‘s usual sanguinary policy, the
whole garrison was put to the sword with ruthless
cruelty, and Walter de Huntercombe, a baron of
Northumberland, was made governor of the new
one; but in the next year Wallace with his patriots
swePt like a torrent over the Lowlands.
Victorious at Stirling,
in particular, he slew
Cressingham, and recaptured
all the fortresses
- Edinburgh
among them. Scotland
was cleared of the
English ; but the invasion
of I zg8 followed ;
Wallace was betrayed,
and too well do we
know how he died.
The year 1300 saw
“Johan de Kingeston,
Connestable et Gardeyn
du Chaste1 de Edenburgh,”
and four years
afterwards he was succeeded
by Sir Piers
de Lombard, a brave
Robert Bruce was
now in arms. He in
turn had became conqueror
; he invaded
England in 1311, and
by the following year
had re-captured nearly
every castle but that of
. knight of Gascony.
was made on the night of the 14th of March-which
proved dark and stormy-at the most difficult
part of those precipitous blxffs which overhang the
Princes’ Street Gardens, where a fragment of ruin,
named Wallace’s Cradle, is still visible. Under his
guidance, with only thirty resolute men, Randolph
scaled the walls at midnight, and, after a fierce
resistance, the garrison was overpowered. There
are indications that some secret pathway, known to
the Scottish garrison, existed, for during some
CHANCEL ARCH OF ST. MARGARET’S CHAPEL.
Edinburgh, the reduction of which he entrusted to
the noble Sir Thomas Randolph of Strathdon,
Earl of Moray, who has been described as “a
man altogether made up of virtues.”
The English or Norman garrison suspecting
the fidelity of Sir Piers, placed him in a dungeon,
and under a newly-elected commander, were prepared
to offer a desperate resistance, when a romantic
incident restored the Castle to the king
of Scotland.
Among the soldiers of Randolph was one named
William Frank, who volunteered to lead an escalade
up a steep and intricate way by which he had been
accustomed in former years to visit a girl in the
city of whom he was enamoured. Frequent use had
made him familiar with the perilous ascent, and it
-
operations in 1821
traces were found of
steps cut in the rock,
about seventyfeetabove
the fragment named
“ Wallace‘s Cradle ”-
a path supposed to
have been completcd
by a movable ladder.
Sir Piers de Lombard
(sometimes called Leland)
joined King
Kobert, who, according
to Barbour, created him
Viscount of Edinburgh;
but afterwards suspecting
him of treason, and
“that he had an English
hart, made him to
be hangit and drawen.”
To prevent it from
being re-captured or
r e-ga rri son e d, R a ndolph
dismantled the
Castle, which for fourand-
twenty years afterwards
remained a desolate
ruin abandoned
to the bat and the owl.
shattered walls afforded While in this state its
shelter for a single night, in 1335, to therouted
troops of Guy, Count of Namur, who had landed
at Berwick, and was marching to join Edward
III., but was encountered on the Burghmuir by
the Earls of Moray and March, with powerful
forces, when a fierce and bloody battle ensued.
Amid it, Richard Shaw, a Scottish squire, was
defied to single combat by a Flemish knight in a
closed helmet, and both fell, each transfixed by the
other‘s lance. On the bodies being stripped of
their armour, the gallant stranger proved to be
a woman ! While the issue of the battle was
still doubtful, the earls were joined by fresh
forces under Sir Alexander Ramsay of Dalhousie,
William Douglas, and Sir David de Annan. The ... of the garrison made a fruitless defence till the 6th of June, 1296, when they were compelled to ...

Vol. 1  p. 24 (Rel. 0.35)

Castle Terrace.] THE UNION CANAL 215
newest mechanical appliances, including hydraulic
machinery for shifting the larger scenes. The
proscenium was 32 feet wide by 32 feet in height,
with an availabie width behind of 74 feet, expanding
backwards to 114 feet.
The lighting was achieved ‘by a central sunlight
and lamps hung on the partition walls. The ventilation
was admirable, and the temperature was
regulated by steam-pipes throughout the house.
But the career of this fine edifice as a theatre
was very brief, and proved how inadequate Edinburgh
is, from the peculiar tastes and wishes of
its people, to supply audiences for more than two
or three such places of entertainment. It speedily
proved a failure, and being in the inarket was
purchased by the members of the United Presbyterian
Church, who converted it into a theological
hall, suited for an audience of 2,ooo in all.
The total cost of the building to the denomination,
including the purchase of the theatre, amounted
to ~47,000. Two flats under the street $oor are
fitted up as fireproof stores, which will cover in all
an area of 3,500 square yards.
In connection with this defunct theatre it was
proposed to have a winter garden and aquarium.
Near it the eye is arrested by a vast pile of new
buildings, fantastic and unique in design and
detail, the architect of which has certainly been
fortunate, at least, in striking out something
original, if almost indescribable, in domestic architecture.
Free St. Cuthbert’s Church is in Spittal Street,
which is named from Provost Sir James Spittal,
and is terminated by the King’s Bridge at the base
of the Castle Rock.
All this area of ground and that lying a little
to the westward have the general name of the
Castle Barns, a designation still preserved in a
little street near Port Hopetoun. A map of the
suburbs, in 1798, shows Castle Barns to be an
isolated hamlet or double row of houses on Lhe
Falkirk Road, distant about 250 yards from the
little pavilion-roofed villa still standing at the Main
Point. Maitland alleges that somewhere thereabout
an ediiice was erected for the accommodation
of the royal retinue when the king resided
in the Castle; and perhaps such may have been
the case, but the name implies its having been
the grange or farm attached to the fortress, and
this idea is confirmed by early maps, when a considerable
portion of the ground now lying on both
sides of the Lothian Road is included under the
general term.
On the plateau at the head of the latter, bordered
on the south-east by the ancient way to Fountainbridge,
stands one of the most hideous features
of Edinburgh-the Canal Basinl with its surrounding
stores and offices. 8
In 1817 an Act of Parliament was procured,
giving power to a joint stock company to cut a
a canal from Edinburgh to the Forth and Clyde
Canal at a point about four miles before the communication
of the latter with the Forth. The canal
was begun in the following year and completed in
1822. The chief objects of it were the transmission
of heavy goods and the conveyance of passengers
between the capital and Glasgow-a system long
since abandoned ; the importation to the former
of large coal supplies from places to the *estward,
and the exportation of manure from the city into
agricultural districts. The eastern termination,
calledPort Hopetoun, occasioned the rapid erect;on
of a somewhat important suburb, where before there
stood only a few scattered houses surrounded by
fields and groves of pretty trees; but the canal,
though a considerable benefit to the city in prerailway
times, has drained a great deal of money
from its shareholders.
Though opened in 182, the canal was considerably
advanced in the year preceding. In the
Week0 Journd for November 7, 1821, we read
that “from the present state of the works, the
shortening of the days, and the probability of being
retarded by the weather, it seems scarcely possible
that the trade of this navigation can be opened up
sooner than the second month of spring, which
will be exactly four years from its commencement.
Much has been done within the last few months
on the west end of the line, while at the east end
the forming of the basin, which is now ready to
receive the water, together with the numerous
bridges necessary in the first quarter of a mile, have
required great attention. , Of the passage boats
building at the west end of Lochrin distillery, two
of which we mentioned some time ago as being
in a forward state, one is now completed ; she is
in every respect an elegant and comfortable vessel,
and is called the FZoora Mac Ivor; the second is
considerably advanced, and a third boat after the
same model as the others is commenced building.”
In the same (now defunct) periodical, for 1st
January, 1822, we learn that the RZora, “the first
of the Union Canal Company’s passage boats, was
yesterday launched from the company’s building
yard, at the back of Gilmore Place.”
One of the best features of street architecture
that sprung up in this quarter after the formation
of the canal was Gardiner’s Crescent., with its
chapel, which was purchased from the United
Secession Congregation by the Kirk Session of St. ... Terrace.] THE UNION CANAL 215 newest mechanical appliances, including hydraulic machinery for shifting the ...

Vol. 4  p. 215 (Rel. 0.35)

As the time of her accouchement drew near, she
was advised by the Lords of Council to remain in
the fortress and await it; and a former admirer
of Mary‘s, the young Earl of Arran (captain of the
archers), whose love had turned his brain, was
sent from his prison in David‘s Tower to Hamilton.
STORE WHICH FORMERLY STOOD OVER THE BARRIER-GATEWAY OF EDINBURGH CASTLE.
(From tke Original ~ G W in tht Mwccm of tht So&& of Antiquaries of Scofkrul.)
A French Queen shall beare the some
And he from the Bruce’s blood shall come
To rule all Britainne to the sea,
As near as to the ninth degree.”
According to the journalist Bannatyne, Knox’s
secretary, Mary was delivered with great ease by
On the ground floor at the south-east corner of thc
Grand Parade there still exists, unchanged anc
singularly irregular in form, the room wherein, a1
ten o’clock on the morning of the 19th of June
1566, was born James VI., in whose person thc
rival crowns of hlary and Elizabeth were to bc
united. A stone tablet over the arch of the 016
doorway, with a monogram of H and M and the
date, commemorates this event, unquestionably thc
greatest in the history of Britain. The royal arms
of Scotland figure on one of the walls, and an orna.
mental design surmounts the rude stone fireplace,
while four lines in barbarous doggerel record the
birth. The most extravagant joy pervaded the
entire city. Public thanksgiving was offered up in
St. Giles’s, and Sir James Melville started on the
spur with the news to the English court, and rode
with such speed that he reached London in four
days, and spoiled the mirth of the envious Elizabeth
for one night at least with the happy news.
And an old prophecy, alleged to be made by
CIPHER OF LORD DARNLEY AND QUEEN MARY.
(Over entrancr fo tkr RvaZ Apartments, ddidurglr Castle.)
Thomas the Rhymer, but proved by Lord Hailes
to be a forgery, was now supposed to be fulfilled-
<‘ However it happen for to fall,
The Lycn shall be lord of all 1
the necromantic powers of the Countess ot
John Earl of Athole, who was deemed a sorceress,
and who cast the queen’s pains upon
the Lady Reres, then in the Castle. An interesting
conversation between Mary and Darnley took
place in the little bed-room, as recorded in the
“Memoirs” of Lord Herries Daniley came at
two in the afternoon to see his royal spouse and
child. ‘‘ My lord,” said the queen, “God has
given us a son.” Partially uncovering the face of
the infant, she added a protest that it was his and
no other man’s son. Then turning to an English
gentlemar, present, she said, “ This is the son who,
I hope, shall first unite the two kingdoms of Scotland
and England.” Sir William Stanley said,
“Why, madam, shall he succeed before your majesty
and his father?” “Alas !” answered Mary, “his
father has broken to me,” alluding to the conspiracy
against Rizzio. ‘‘ Sweet madam,” said
Darnley, “is this the promise you made--that
you would forget and forgive all ? ‘I “ I have forgiven
all,” replied the queen, “but will never
forget. What if Faudonside‘s (one of the assassins)
pistol had shot? What would have become of
both the babe and me ? ’’ “ Madam,” replied
Darnley, “these things are past.” “Then,” said the
queen, “ let them go.” So ended this conversation.
It is a curious circumstance that the remains of
In infant in an oak coffin, wrapped in a shroud
marked with the letter I, were discovered built up
in the wall of this old palace in August, 1830,
but were re-consigned to their strange place of
jepulture by order of General Thackeray, comnanding
the Royal Engineers in Scotland.
When John Spotswood, superintendent of Lo-
:hian, and other Reformed clergymen, came to
:ongratulate Mary in the name of the General
kssembly, he begged that the young Duke of ... the time of her accouchement drew near, she was advised by the Lords of Council to remain in the fortress and ...

Vol. 1  p. 46 (Rel. 0.35)

PAGE
Trinity College Church (restored) . . . . 289
Victoria Street and Terrace, from George Iv. Bridge. 293
George IV. Bridge . . . . Tofacej~ge 295
Plan for opening a communication between the North
and South sides of the City by a Bridge, entering
St. Augustine’s Church . . . . . * 292
the Lawnmarket nearly opposite Bank Street . 296
St. Mary’s Wynd, from the Pleasance . . , .
Doorhead in St. Mary’s Wynd (the oldest extant), built
into the Catholic Institute . . . . .
Cowgate Port . . . - . . . .
Old Collegiate Seals, Trinity College Church . .
Trinity College Church, and part of Trinity Hospital ,
Trinity College Church, with Church Officer’s House,
and part of Trinity Hospital . - . .
Seal and Autograph of Mary of Gueldres . . -
Ground Plan of Trinity College Church, 1814 . .
Trinity Hospital . . . . . . .
Trinity Church and Hospital, and Neighbourhood .
Major Weir’s Land . . . . . . .
Assembly Rooms, West Bow, looking towards the
Lawnmarket . . . . . . .
Assembly Rooms, West Bow . . . . .
Mahogany Land . . . . . . .
Romieu’a House . . . . . . .
Old Houses, West Bow . . . . . .
Provost Stewart’s Land, West Bow . . . .
PAGE
fie Castle Road , , . ’ . . , . 328
Charles Edward in his Youth . . - * 329
The Weigh-House . . ~ , . . 332
Charles Edward in his later years . . . . 333
Palace of Mary of Guise, Castle Hill . , . . 336
The North Bridge and the Bank of Scotland, 1809
TOPcepage 337
297
3w
301
303
304
305
306
308
309
3‘2
3’3
316
3’7
320
32 1
324
325
George Drummond, Lord Provost , . . .
AdamBlack . . . . . . . . .
View from the back of Shakespeare Square . .
The OldTheatre Royal . . . . . .
Mr. Clinch and Mrs. Yates as the Duke and Duchess
of Braganza , . . . . . .
The Old Theatre Royal, in process of Demolition .
The Post Office in Waterloo Place . . . .
The General Post Office, Edinburgh . . . .
The Orphan Hospital . . . . . .
Dr. John Hope. . . . . . . .
The Register House . , . . . . .
Antiquarian Room, Register House . . . .
Dome Room, or Library, Register House . . .
The Wellington Statue, RegisterHouse . . .
Watt Institution and School of Arts, Adam Square .
Surgeon Square . . . - . . .
Old Surgeon’s Hall, f r m tlxe North, the Flodden
Wall in the Background . . . . .
DmieDeans’ Cottage - . . . .
34 1
344
345
349
352
353
356
35 7
361
364
365
368
369
373
377
3%
38 ‘
383
PAUL’S WORK.
(Tke mmff in which Sir Waltcr Scoft cowected Jus proofs1 ... College Church (restored) . . . . 289 Victoria Street and Terrace, from George Iv. Bridge. ...

Vol. 2  p. 394 (Rel. 0.35)

Stirling had been paying his addresses to a girl
possessed of great attractions, daughter of Richard
Lawson of the Highriggs, Provost in 1504 (and
whose house there was removed only in 1878),
but proving less successful than Meldrum of the
Binns-whose feats of chivalry have been sung
by Lindesay of the Mount-he attacked the latter
at the head of fifty horse, near the Rood Chapel
in Leith Loan, though his rival had only eight followers,
and a mortal combat with sword and axe
ensued. Meldrum unhorsed Sir Lewis, and would
have slain him had not his faithful henchman, by
interposing, received the sword-thrust in his own
heart. The prowess of Meldrum’s troopers is
evinced from the fact that they slew twenty-six oi
Stirling’s men, but the former was left for dead,
covered with wounds ; “yet,” saith Pitscottie, “be
the mychtie power of God he escaped death, and
lived fiftie years thairaftir.” The Chevalier de la
Bead, the detested Lieutenant-Governor under
Albany, at the head of the mounted French gendarmerie,
pursued Stirling to the Peel of Linlithgow.
He stormed it, and sent this fiery lover to
the Castle of Edinburgh, where he was sentenced
to death, but was pardoned and set free, while
the chevalier was soon after slain by Home of
Wedderburn, who knitted his head to his saddlebow.
During this time little James V. resided permanently
in the Castle, pursuing his studies under the
tuition of Gawin Dunbar, afterwards Archbishop
of Glasgow, all unconscious of the turmoils in progress
everywhere, and so completely forgotten by
the actors in them, that his sister, the Countess
of Morton, with her friends, had, more than once,
to repair the royal apartments and replenish his
wardrobe. Though . placed in the fortress for
security, he was permitted to ride abroad on a
little mule that was kept for his use, but always
under escort of Albany’s guards, clad in scarlet
doublets slashed with black, and armed with
partisan and dagger. Dread of a pestilence &hich
broke out in the garrison caused his removal to
Craigmillar, where, by the courtesy of Lord
Erskine, his mother was permitted to visit him,
till the other guardians, hostile to English influence
and suspicious of her power, removed him to
his fonner residence. James is said to have delighted
in conversing with the soldiers, and when
handling their swords and hackbuts his cheeks
were seen to flush and his eyes to sparkle with the
ardour of a brave boy when contemplating military
objects.
When Albany returned from visiting France, in
1521, the queen-dowager, Beaton, and so many
Dthers came in his train to Holyrood, that Angus,
who had quarrelled with Margaret, and was the
sworn foe of them all, quitted the city, and was
exiled for tumults he had excited during the
absence ot the Regent. As the only means 06
terminating the frightful anarchy that prevailed, it
was resolved to invest James, now in his twelfth
year, with full sovereign power ; and thus, on the
zznd August, 1524, he made his solemn entry into
the Tolbooth, preceded by the crown, sceptre, and
sword of state.
The irrepressible Angus, backed by the Douglases,
seized the government in the following year,
scaled the city walls on the night of the 24th
November, beat open the ports, and fairly capturing
Edinburgh, made a Douglas Provost thereof.
And such was the power he possessed, that the
assassins of M‘Lellan of Bombie-who was slain
in open day at the door of St. Giles’s churcliwalked
with impunity about the streets; while the
queen herself deemed his safe-conduct necessary
while she resided in Edinburgh, though Parliament
was sitting at the time ; and so the king returned
again to honourable durance in the dilapidated
palace of the Castle, or only put in an appearance
to act as the puppet of his governor.
At this crisis Arran and his faction demanded
that Parliament should assemble in the Castle-hall
as a security against coercion ; but Angus vowed
that it should continue to meet in its usual place ;
and as the king was retained within the Castle, he
cut off all communication between it and the city
with 2,000 men, on whom the batteries opened;
but eventually these differences were adjusted, and
the luckless young king was permitted to attend
Parliament in state.
On All Saints’ Day a thunderbolt struck a turret
3f David’s Tower, and hurled some fragments down
the rocks, setting fire to the apartments of Margaret,
who narrowly escaped with her life.
In 1526, John Earl of Lennox, at‘ the head of
numerous forces, marched towards Edinburgh,
intent on rescuing the king from the intolerable
thraldom of Angus; but the latter caused his
namesake the Provost to ring the alarm bell,
display the banner of the city, and put‘ it on its
defence. He did more. He tompelled James to
Lead out the citizens against his own friends. He
issued forth by the West Port, at the head of
all the men of Edinburgh and Leith, but came in
time only to witness the death of Lennox in the
battle of Linlithgow Bridge, where he was cruelly
slain by Sir James Hamilton, after he had surrendered
his sword to the Laird of Pardowie.
Queen Margaret, who had now divorced Angus, ... had been paying his addresses to a girl possessed of great attractions, daughter of Richard Lawson of ...

Vol. 1  p. 42 (Rel. 0.35)

Manor Place.] HAYMARKET STATION. 213
A shot fired from the belfry apprised the multi-
&de far down below of the close of the ceremony,
and immediately the choir, along with other officials
of ‘the church in surplices stationed in the garden,
sung the hymn “Praise ye the Lord, ye Heavens
in the nave and clerestory bear the arms of many
ancient Scottish families,
Away to the westward of the quarter we have
described, at the delta of the old Glasgow and
Dalry roads, where for several generations stood
ST. MAPY7S CATHEDRAL, INTERIOR VIEW. (Fpom a Phofosrnph by G. W. Wikm ad Co., ACrdem.)
by the Lord Provost.
Sir Gilbert Scott did not live to see the completion
of this cathedral, which is one of the many
lasting monuments of his skill as an architect.
Among the gifts to the cathedral are a peal of ten
bells presented by Dean Montgomery ; the great
from Glasgow by wings upon the two roads, formed
a junction and halted, while the officers had breakfast
or dinner before pushing on to the Castle by
the Lang Dykes and latterly by Princes Street and ,
the Earthern Mound-is the Haymarket Railway
Station, the first or original terminus of the Edin ... Place.] HAYMARKET STATION. 213 A shot fired from the belfry apprised the multi- &de far down below of ...

Vol. 4  p. 213 (Rel. 0.35)

the blood of the Trojans. In Albanye (now called
Scotland) he edified the Castell of Alclude, which
is Dumbreyton j he made the Castell of Maydens,
now called Edinburgh; he also made the Castell
.of Banburgh, in the twenty-third year of his reign.”
All these events occurred, according to Stow, in
the year 989 beJore Christ ; and the information is
quite as veracious as much else that has been
written concerning the remote history of Scotland.
From sources that can scarcely be doabted, a
‘ fortress of some kind upon the rock would seem to
have been occupied by the Picts, from whom it
was captured in 452 by the Saxons of Northumbria
under Octa and Ebusa; and from that time
down to the reign of Malcolm 11. its history
exhibits but a constant struggle for its possession
between them and the Picts, each being victorious
in turn; and Edwin, one of these Northumbrian
invaders, is said to have rebuilt it in 626. Terri-
* tories seemed so easily overrun in those times, that
the latter, with the Scots, in the year 638, under
the reign of Valentinian I., penetrated as far as
London, but were repulsed by Theodosius, father
of the Emperor of the same name. This is the
Edwin whose pagan high-priest Coifi was converted
to Christianity by Paulinus, in 627, and who, according
to Bede, destroyed the heathen temples
and altars. A curious and very old tradition still
exists in Midlothian, that the stones used in the
construction of the castle were taken from a quarry
near Craigmillar, the Craig-moiZard of antiquity.
Camden says, “The Britons called it CasfeZ
Mynedh Agnedh-the maidens’ or virgins’ castlebecause
certain young maidens of the royal blood
were kept there in old times.” The source of this
Oft-repeated story has probably been the assertion
of Conchubhranus, that an Irish saint, or recluse,
named Monena, late in the fifth century founded
seven churches in Scotland, on the heights of
Dun Edin, Dumbarton, and elsewhere. This may
have been the St. Monena of Sliabh-Cuillin, who
died in 5r8. The site of her edifice is supposed
to be that now occupied by the present chapel
of St. Margaret-the most ancient piece of masonry
in the Scottish capital; and it is a curious
circumstance, with special reference to the fable
of the Pictish princesses, that close by it (as recorded
in the CaZedonian Mercury of 26th September,
1853), when some excavations were made,
a number of human bones, apparently aZZ of
females, were found, together with the remains of
several coffins.
“ Castmm PuelZarum,” says Chalmers, ‘‘ was the
learned and diplomatic name of the place, as
appears from existing charters and documents
Edinburgh, its vulgar appellation f while Buchanan
asserts that its ancient names of the Dolorous
Valley and Maiden Castle were borrowed from .
ancient French romances, “ devised within the
space of three hundred years ” from his time.
The Castle was the nucleus, so to speak, around
which the city grew, a fact that explains the triple
towers in the arms of the latter-three great
towers connected by a curtain wall-being the
form it presented prior to the erection of the
Half-Moon Battery, in Queen Mary’s time.
Edwin, the most powerful of the petty kings of
Northumberland, largely extended the Saxon conquests
in the Scottish border counties; and his
possessions reached ultimately from the waters of
Abios to those of Bodoria-i.e., from Humber to
Forth ; but Egfrid, one of his successors, lost these
territories, together with his liie, in battle with the
Pictish King Bridei, or Brude, who totally defeated
him at Dun-nechtan, with temble slaughter. This
was a fatal blow to the Northumbrian monarchy,
which never regained its previous ascendency, and
was henceforth confined to the country south of
Tweed. Lodonia (a Teutonic name signifying
marshes or borders) became finally a part of the
Pichsh dominiops, Dunedin being its stronghold, and
both the Dalriadic Scots and Strathclyde Britons
were thus freed from the inroads of the Saxons.
This battle was fought in the year 685, the
epoch of the bishopric of Lindisfasne, and as the
Church of St. Giles was a chaplainry of that
ancient see, we may infer that some kind of townof
huts, doubtless-had begun to cluster round the
church, which was a wooden edifice of a primitive
kind, for as the world was expected to end in the
year 1000, sacred edifices of stone were generally
deemed unnecessary. From the time of the
Saxon expulsion to the days of Malcolm 11.-a
period of nearly four hundred years-everything
connected with the castle and town of Edinburgh
is steeped in obscurity or dim tradition.
According to a curious old tradition, preserved
in the statistical account of the parish of Tweedmuir,
the wife of Grime, the usurper, had her
residence in the Castle while he was absent
fighting against the invading Danes. He is said
to have granted, by charter, his hunting seat of
Polmood, in that parish, to one of his attendants
named Hunter, whose race were to possess it while
wood grew and water ran. But, as Hogg says
in his “Winter Evening Tales,” “There is one
remarkable circumstance connected with the place
that has rendered it unfamous of late years, and
seems to justify an ancient prediction that the
hunters of Polmood were mer foprospr..“ ... blood of the Trojans. In Albanye (now called Scotland) he edified the Castell of Alclude, which is Dumbreyton ...

Vol. 1  p. 15 (Rel. 0.35)

OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Craigmillar.
-- 58
competition, the first prize for the chapel, &c., was
awarded to James Grant, Hope Park End.
Skirting the cemetery on the west, the Powburn
here tums south, and running under Cameron
Bridge, after a bend, turns acutely north, and
flows through the grounds of Prestonfield towards
Duddingston Loch.
Out of his lands of Cameron, Sir Simon Preston
of Craigmillar, in 1474, gave an annual rent of
ten marks to a chaplain in the church of Musselburgh.
Craigmillar Park and Craigmillar Road take
their name from the adjacent ruined castle ; and at
Bridge-end, at the base of the slope on which it
stands, James V. had a hunting-lodge and chapel,
some traces of which still exist in the form of a
stable.
On the summit of an eminence, visible from the
whole surrounding country-the crazg-moiZwd of
antiquity (the high bare rock, no doubt, it once was)
-stands the venerable Castle of Craigmillar, with a
history nearly as long as that of Holyrood, and
which is inseparably connected with that of Edinburgh,
having its silent records of royalty and
rank-its imperishable memories of much that has
perished for ever.
The hill on which it stands, in view of tile
encroaching city-which ’ bids fair some day to
surround it-is richly planted with young wood ;
but in the immediate vicinity of the ruin some of
the old ancestral trees remain, where they have
braved the storms of centuries. Craigmillar is
remarkable as being the only family mansion in
Scotland systematically built on the principles
of fortification in use during the fifteenth and
sixteenth centuries. In the centre tower, the square
donjon keep is of the earliest age of baronial architecture,
built we know not when, or by whom, and
surrounded now by an external wall, high and strong,
enclosing a considerable area, with round flanking
towers about sixty feet apart in front, to protect the
curtains between-all raised in. those ages of strife
and bloodshed when our Scottish nobles-
“Carved at the meal with gloves of steel,
And drank aeir wine through the helmet barredr”
Its lofty and stately vaulted hall measures
thirty-six feet long by twenty-two feet in breadth,
with a noble fireplace eleven feet wide, and on the
lower portions of it some remnants of old paintings
may be traced, and on the stone slab of one 01
the windows a diagram for playing an old knightly
game called “Troy.” There are below it several
gloomy dungeons, in one of which John Pinkerton,
Advocate, and Mr. Irvine, W.S., discovered in
1813 a human skeleton, built into the wall upright.
What dark secrets the old walls of this castle could
tell, had their stones tongues ! for an old, old
house it is, full of thrilling historical and warlike
memories. Besides the keep and the older towers,
there is within the walls a structure of more modern
sppearance, built in the seventeenth century. This
is towards the west, where a line of six handsome
gableted dormer windows on each side of a projecting
chimney has almost entirely disappeared ;
one bore the date MDC. Here a stair led to the
castle gardens, in which can be traced a large
pond in the form of a p, the initial letter of the
old proprietor’s name. Here, says Balfour, in
I 509, ‘‘ there were two scorpions found, one dead,
the other alive.”
There are the dilapidated remains of a chapel,
measuring thirty feet by twenty feet, with a large
square and handsomely-mullioned window, and a
mutilated font. It was built by Sir +John Gilmour,
who had influence enough to obtain a special
‘‘ indulgence ” therefor from King James VII. It
is a stable now.
‘‘ On the boundary wall,” says Sir Walter Scott,
“may be seen the arms of Cockburn of Ormiston,
Congalton of Congalton, Mowbray of Barnbougle,
and Otterbum of Redford, allies of the Prestons
of Craigmillar. In one corner of the court, over
a portal arch, are the arms of the family: three
unicorns’ heads coupid, with a cheese-press and
barrel, or tun-a wretched rebus, to express their
name of Preston.”
This sculptured fragment bears the date 1510.
The Prestons of Craigmillar carried their shield
above the gate, in the fashion called by the Italians
smdopmdente, which is deemed more honourable
than those carried square, according to Rosehaugh’s
“ Science of Heraldry.”
On the south the castle is built on a perpendicular
rock. Round the exterior walls was
a deep moat, and one of the advanced round
towers-the Dovecot-has loopholes for arrows
or musketry.
The earliest possessor of whom we have record
is “Henry de Craigmillar,” or William Fitz-
Henry, of whom there is extant a charter of gift
of a certain toft of land in Craigmillar, near the
church of Liberton, to the monastery of Dunfermline,
in I z I 2, during the reign of King Alexander 11.
The nearer we conie to the epoch of the long and
glorious War of Independence, the more generally
do we find the lands in the south of Scotland in
the hands of Scoto-Nbrman settlers. John de
Capella was Lord of Craigmillar, from whose
family the estate passed into the hands of Simon
Preston, in 1374, he receiving a charter, under ... AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Craigmillar. -- 58 competition, the first prize for the chapel, &c., was awarded to ...

Vol. 5  p. 58 (Rel. 0.35)

.The Castle Hill~l LORD SEMPLE 9s -
spire which surmounts the massive Gothic tower at
the main entrance rises to an altitude of 240 feet,
and forms a point in all views of the city.
. Many quaint closes and picturesque old houses
were swept away to give place to this edifice, and
to the hideous western approach, which weakened
the strength and destroyed the amenity of the
Castle in that quarter. Among these, in ROSS’S
Court, stood the house of the great Marquis of
Argyle, which, in the days of Creech, was rented by
a hosier at f;~a per annum, In another, named
Remedy’s Close-latterly a mean and squalid alley
-there resided, until almost recent times, a son of
Sir Andrew Kennedy of Clowburn, Bart., whose
title is now extinct ; and the front tenement was
alleged to have been the town residence of those
proud and fiery Earls of Cassillis, the “kings ol
Qrrick,” whose family name was Kennedy, and
whose swords were seldom in the scabbard.
Here, too, stood a curious old timber-fronted
‘‘ land,” said to have been a nonjurant Episcopal
chapel, in which was a beautifully sculptured Gothic
niche with a cusped canopy, and which Wilson
supposes to have been one of the private oratories
that Arnot states to have been existing in his time,
and in which the baptismal fonts were then re.
maining.
On the north side of the street, most quaint was
the group of buildings partly demolished to make
way for Short’s Observatory. One was dated 1621
another was very lofty, with two crowstepped gqble2
and four elaborate string mouldings on a ,smootf
ashlar front. The first of these, which stdod at thc
corner of Ramsay Lane, and had some very ornate
windows, was universally alleged to be the towx
residence of that personage so famous in Scottisf
song, the Laird of Cockpen, whose family namt
was Ramsay (being a branch of the noble family 01
Dalhousie) and from whom some affirm the lane
*to have been called, long before the days of tht
.poet. .By an advertisement in the Bdinburgh Cw
,runt for January, 1761, we find that Lady Cockper
was then resident in a house ‘‘ in the Bell Close,’
the north side of the Castle Hill, the rental o
which was A14 10s.
‘ The last noble occupants of the old mansion
were two aged ladies, daughters of the Lord Graq
of Kinfauns. The house adjoining bore the datc
as mentioned, 1621 ; and the on: below it was :
fine specimen of the wooden-fronted tenements
with the oak timbers of the projecting gable beauti
fully carved. During the early part of the I8tt
century this was the town mansion of David thirc
Earl of Leven, who succeeded the Duke of Gor
don as governor of the Castle in 1689, and beliec
ii; race by his cowardice at Killiecrankie. “No
ioubt,” wrote an old cavalier at a later period,.
‘ if Her Majesty Queen Anne had been rightly inormed
of his care of the Castle, where there were
lot ten barrels of powder when the Pretender was
m the coast of Scotland, and of his courteous beiaviour
to ladies-particularly how he horsewhipped
be Lady Mortonhall-she would have made him
L general for life.”
Close by this editice there stands, in Semple’s
Zlose, a fine example of its time, the old family
nansion of the Lords Semple of Castlesemple.
Large and substantially built, it is furnished with a
?rejecting octagonal turnpike stair, over the door
:o which is the boldly-cut legend-
PRAISED BE THE LORD MY GOD, MY STRENGTH
AND MY REDEEMER.
ANNO h b f . 1638.
Over a second doorway is the inscription-Sedes,
Manet optima Cdo, with the above date repeated,
and the coat of arms of some family now unknown.
Hugh eleventh Lord Semple, in 1743 purchased
the house from two merchant burgesses of Edinburgh,
who severally possessed it, and he converted
it into one large mansion. He had seen much
military service in Queen Anne’s wars, both in
Spain and Flanders. In 1718 he was major of the
Cameronians; and in 1743 he commanded the
Black Watch, and held the town of Aeth when it
was besieged by the French. In 1745 he was
colonel of the 25th or Edinburgh Regiment, and
commanded the left wing of the Hanoverian army
at the battle of Culloden.
Few families have been more associated with
Scottish song than the Semples. Prior to fie
acquisition af this mansion their family residence
appears to have been in Leith, and it is referred to .
in a poem by Francis Semple, of Belltrees, written
about 1680. The Lady Semple of that day, a
daughter of Sir Archibald Primrose of Dalmeny
(ancestor of the Earls of Rosebery), is traditionally
said to have been a Roman Catholic. Thus,
her house was a favourite resort of the priesthood
then Visiting Scotland in disguise, and she had a
secret passage by which they could escape to the
fields in time of peril.
Anne, fourth daughter of Hugh Lord Seniple,
was married in September, 1754 to Dr. Austin,
of Edinburgh, author of the well-known song,
“For lack of gold,” in allusion to Jem, Drum-
* “ M i m l h e a soo?;ca.- ... Castle Hill~l LORD SEMPLE 9s - spire which surmounts the massive Gothic tower at the main entrance rises to ...

Vol. 1  p. 91 (Rel. 0.35)

time, he delighted in music and the theatre, and
it was his own advanced taste and spirit that led
.him, in 1725, to open a circulating library for the
diffusion of fiction among the citizens of the time.
Three , years subsequently, in the narrow-minded
spirit of the dark age ” of Edinburgh, the magistrates
were moved to action, by the fear this new
kind of reading might have on the minds of youth,
and actually tried, but without effect, to put his
library down. Among the leaders of these selfconstituted
guardians of morality was Erskine Lord
Grange, whose life was a scandal to the age. In I 736
Allan Ramsay’s passion for the drama prompted him
to erect a theatre in Catrubber‘s Close; but in the
ensuing year the act for licensing the stage was
passed, and the magistrates ordered the house to
. be shut up. By this spetulation he lost a good deal
of money, but it is remarked by his biographers
that this was perhaps the only unfortunate project
in which he ever engaged. His constant cheerfulness
and great conversatibnal powers made him
a favourite with all classes; and being fond of
children he encouraged his three daughters to
bring troops of young girls about his house, and
in their sports he mingled with a vivacity singular
in one of his years, and for them he was wont to
make dolls and cradles with his own hands. In
that house on the Castle bank he spent the last
twelve years of a blameless life. He did not give
up his shop-long the resort of all the wits of
Edinburgh, the Hamiltons of Bangour, and Gilbertfield,
Gay, and others-till 1755. He died in
1757, in his seventy-second year, and was buried
in the Greyfriars Churchyard, where a tomb marks
his grave. “An elderly female told a friend of
mine,” says Chambers, that she remembered, as
a girl, living as an apprentice with a milliner in
the Grassmarket, being sent to Ramsay Garden,
to assist in making dead-clothes for the poet. She
could recall, however, no particulars of the same,
but the roses blooming in the deathchamber.”
The house of the poet passed to his son, Allan,
an eminent portrait painter, a man of high culture,
and a favourite in those circles wherein Johnson
and Boswell moved. He inherited considerable
literary taste from his father, and was the founder
of the ‘‘ Select Society” of Edinburgh, in 1754, of
which all the learned men there were members.
By the interest of Lord Bute he was introduced
. to George III., when Prince of Wales, whose
portrait he painted. He enlarged the house his
father built, and also raised the additional large
edifices to the eastward, now known as Ramsay
Gardens. The biographers of the painter always
,assert that he madearomantic marriage. In his
youth, when teaching drawing to the daughters of
Sir Alexander Lindesay, of Evelick, one of them fell
in love with him, and as the consent of the parents
was impossible then, they were secretly united in
wedlock. He died at Dover in 1784, after which
the property went to his son, General John Ramsay
(latterly of the Chasseurs Bntanniques), who, at his
death in 1845, left the property to Murrdy of Henderland,
and so ended the line of the author of
‘‘ The Gentle Shepherd.”
Having thus described the locality of the Esplanade,
we shall now relate a few of the temble
episodes-apart from war and tumult-of which it
has been the scene.
In the reign of James V. the Master of Forbes
was executed here for treason. He and his father
had been warded in the Castle on that charge in
1536. By George Ear1,of Huntly, who bore a
bitter animosity to the house of Forbes, the former
had been accused of a design to take the life of
the king, by shooting him with a hand-gun in
Aberdeen, and also of being the chief instigator
of the mutiny among the Scottish forces at Jedburgh,
when on the march for England. Protesting
his innocence, the Master boldly offered to
maintain it in single combat against the earl, who
gave a bond for 30,000 merks to make good his
charge before the 3rst of July, 1537. But it was
not until the 11th of the same month in the following
year that the Master was brought to trial,
before Argyle, the Lord Justice General, and
Huntly failed not to make good his vaunt.
Though the charges were barely proved, and the
witnesses were far from exceptionable, the luckless
Master of Forbes was sentenced by the Commissioners
of Justiciary and fifteen other men of
high rank to be hanged, drawn, beheaded, and dismembered
as a traitor, on the Castle Hill, which
was accordingly done, and his quarters were placed
above the city gates. The judges are supposed to
have been bribed by Huntly, and many of the jury,
though of noble birth, were his hereditary enemies.
His father, after a long confinement, and undergoing
a tedious investigation, was released from
the Castle.
But a more terrible execution was soon to follow
-that of Lady Jane Douglas, the young and beautiful
widow of John Lord Glammis, who, with her
second husband, Archibald Campbell of Skipness,
her son the little Lord Glammis, and John Lyon
an aged priest, were all committed prisoners to the
Castle, on an absurd charge of seeking to compass
the death of the king by poison and sorcery.
cc Jane Douglas,” says a writer in “Miscellanea
Scotica,” ‘( was the most renowned beauty in Britain ... he delighted in music and the theatre, and it was his own advanced taste and spirit that led .him, in 1725, ...

Vol. 1  p. 83 (Rel. 0.34)

308 OLD AKD NEW EDINBURGH. [Arthur's Scat.
sey, and a deep excitement prevailed, when it was
whispered-none knew how-that they were under
secret orders for the distant East Indies-in other
words, that they had been SOU to the East India
Company by the Government, and that, worse than
the authorities basely having an idea that the poor
clansmen of Kintail "were ignorant, unable to comprehend
the nature of their stipulations, and incapable
of demanding redress for any breach of trust."
But the Seaforth men were neither so ignorant
all, they had been sold by their officers and by the
chief, whom they had looked upon as a father and
leader.
All their native jealousy and distrust of the
Saxon was now kindled and strengthened by their
love of home. General David Stewart, in his
'' Sketches of the Highlanders," boldly asserts that
the regiment was secretly under orders for India,
nor so confiding as the Government supposed, and
they were determined at all hazards not to submit
to the least infraction of the terms on which they
were enlisted as Fencible Infantry-limited service
and within the British Isles ; and when the day for
embarkation came, the zznd September, their longsmothered
wrath could no longer be hidden.
" The regiment paraded on the Castle hill, and ... OLD AKD NEW EDINBURGH. [Arthur's Scat. sey, and a deep excitement prevailed, when it was whispered-none knew ...

Vol. 4  p. 308 (Rel. 0.34)

Firinburgh Castle.] THE. REGIMENT OF EDINBURGH. 63
and all loyalists to quit the city. “At the head
of his forlorn band, consisting of sixty cavalier
troopers-Guardsmenand Greys mingled-Dundee,
the idol of his party, quitted Edinburgh by the
Leith Wynd Port; and, through a telescope, the
Duke of Gordon watched them as they wound
past the venerable church of, the Holy Trinity,
among the cottages and gardens of Moutries Hill,
and as they rode westward by the Lang Gate, a solitary
roadway bordered by fields and farmhouses.”
According to Balcarres this was on the 18th of
March, 1689, and as Gordon wished to confer with
the viscount, the latter, on seeing a red flag waved
at the western postern, rode down the Kirk Brae,
and, quitting his horse, all heavily accoutred as he
was, climbed the steep rock to hold that conference
of which so little was ever known. He is said to
have advised the’duke to leave the Castle in charge
of Winram, on whom they could depend, and seek
their fortunes together among the loyal clans in the
north. But the duke declined, adding, “Whither
“Wherever the shade of Montrose may direct
me,” was the pensive and poetical reply, and then
they parted to meet no more. But the moment
Dundee was gone the drums of the Cameroniaas
beat to ;urns, and they came swarming out of theix
places of concealment, mustering for immediate
ackioion, while, in the name of the Estates, the Earl$
of Tweeddale arid Lothian appeared at the gate d
the fortress, requesting the duke to surrender ii
within four-and-twenty houm, and daringly offering
a year’s pay to every soldier who would desert him.
‘‘ My lords,” said he, “without the express order?
of my royal master, James VII., I cannot surrendei
this castle.”
By the heralds and pursuivants the Duke 01
Gordon was now, as the only alternative, declarec
a traitor. He tossed them some guineas to drink
the health of James VII., adding, with a laugh, ‘‘I
would advise you not to proclaim men traitors whc
wear the king’s coat till they have turned it”
Under the highest penalties, all persons were non
forbidden to correspond with him or his garrison
and the Earl of Leven was ordered to blockadethc
rock with his Cameronians, to whom were addec
300 Highlanders under Argyle. Out of this bodj
there were formed in one day two battalions of thc
line, which still exist-the 25th, or old Edinburgt
regiment, which bears on its colours the tripk
castle, with the motto, ‘‘ Nisi Dominus Frustra,”*
go you ? ”
-
There was a second regiment, called the bth. or Royal Edinburgl
Volunteers, raised by Major-General Sir William Erskine. Bart., in 1777
It served rinder Cornwallis in the American War, and wasdibanded ai
the close thereof. Its Lieuteoant-Colooel was Dundas of Fingask, wh<
died at Guadaoupe
and the 26th, or Cameronians, whose appointments
bear the five-pointed mullet-the .arms of their
first colonel ; while three battalions of the Scots
Brigade, from Holland, were on their march, under
Lieutenant-General Hugh Mackay of Scoury, to
press the siege. Daily matters looked darker and
darker for the gallant Gordon, for now seventy-four
rank and file demanded their discharges, and were,
like their predecessors, stripped and expelled.
The gates were then barricaded, and preparations
made for resistance to the last; but though Sir
James Grant of Dalvey (fomierly King’s Advocate),
and Gordon of Edintore, contrived to throw in a
supply of provisions, the
that he could not hold
out beyond the month
of June unless relieved.
The entire strength
of the garrison, including
okers and gentlemen-
volunteers, was
only eighty-six men,
who had to work
twentv-two Dieces of
@j duke wrote King James -
(exclusive of FACSIMILE OF THE MEDAL
OF THE EDINBURGH REfield-
pieces) ranging VOLUTION CLUB.
from 42 to I a-pounders.
They had no doctor, no
engineer, no money, Mnrl in 1688.)
(=nick in 1753 in ~ommn~mmtiom
a d ~,ztrtu 6,. Wiziiam aw
of the recmwy of tkir Rrligwr
and only thirty barrels of powder in actual quantity.
It was truly a desperate hazard !
By the 18th the entire rock was fully and hopelessly
invested by the Earl of Leven, a Brandenburg
colonel, who displayed a great want of skill; and on
the following night the battlements were blazing
with bonfires and tar barrels in honour of King
Jam& safe arrival in Ireland, of which tidings had
probably been given by Grant of Dalvey. On the
25th came Mackay, with the three battalions of
the Scots Brigade, each consisting of twelve companies,
all splendidly-trained soldiers, a brigade of
guns, and a great quantity of woolpacks with
which to form breastworks. A11 within the Castle
who had gun-shot wounds suffered greatly from
the want of medical attendance, till the duke’s
family physician contrived to join him, probably by
the postern.
On the 13th of March he heavily cannonaded the
western entrenchments, and by dint of shot and
shell retnded the working parties; but General
Mackay now formed a battery of 18-pounders, at
the Highnggs, opposed to the royal lodging and
the half-moon. On the 3rd of April the Duke discovered
that the house of Coates, the ancient ... Castle.] THE. REGIMENT OF EDINBURGH. 63 and all loyalists to quit the city. “At the head of his ...

Vol. 1  p. 63 (Rel. 0.34)

Firinburgh Castle.] THE. REGIMENT OF EDINBURGH. 63
and all loyalists to quit the city. “At the head
of his forlorn band, consisting of sixty cavalier
troopers-Guardsmenand Greys mingled-Dundee,
the idol of his party, quitted Edinburgh by the
Leith Wynd Port; and, through a telescope, the
Duke of Gordon watched them as they wound
past the venerable church of, the Holy Trinity,
among the cottages and gardens of Moutries Hill,
and as they rode westward by the Lang Gate, a solitary
roadway bordered by fields and farmhouses.”
According to Balcarres this was on the 18th of
March, 1689, and as Gordon wished to confer with
the viscount, the latter, on seeing a red flag waved
at the western postern, rode down the Kirk Brae,
and, quitting his horse, all heavily accoutred as he
was, climbed the steep rock to hold that conference
of which so little was ever known. He is said to
have advised the’duke to leave the Castle in charge
of Winram, on whom they could depend, and seek
their fortunes together among the loyal clans in the
north. But the duke declined, adding, “Whither
“Wherever the shade of Montrose may direct
me,” was the pensive and poetical reply, and then
they parted to meet no more. But the moment
Dundee was gone the drums of the Cameroniaas
beat to ;urns, and they came swarming out of theix
places of concealment, mustering for immediate
ackioion, while, in the name of the Estates, the Earl$
of Tweeddale arid Lothian appeared at the gate d
the fortress, requesting the duke to surrender ii
within four-and-twenty houm, and daringly offering
a year’s pay to every soldier who would desert him.
‘‘ My lords,” said he, “without the express order?
of my royal master, James VII., I cannot surrendei
this castle.”
By the heralds and pursuivants the Duke 01
Gordon was now, as the only alternative, declarec
a traitor. He tossed them some guineas to drink
the health of James VII., adding, with a laugh, ‘‘I
would advise you not to proclaim men traitors whc
wear the king’s coat till they have turned it”
Under the highest penalties, all persons were non
forbidden to correspond with him or his garrison
and the Earl of Leven was ordered to blockadethc
rock with his Cameronians, to whom were addec
300 Highlanders under Argyle. Out of this bodj
there were formed in one day two battalions of thc
line, which still exist-the 25th, or old Edinburgt
regiment, which bears on its colours the tripk
castle, with the motto, ‘‘ Nisi Dominus Frustra,”*
go you ? ”
-
There was a second regiment, called the bth. or Royal Edinburgl
Volunteers, raised by Major-General Sir William Erskine. Bart., in 1777
It served rinder Cornwallis in the American War, and wasdibanded ai
the close thereof. Its Lieuteoant-Colooel was Dundas of Fingask, wh<
died at Guadaoupe
and the 26th, or Cameronians, whose appointments
bear the five-pointed mullet-the .arms of their
first colonel ; while three battalions of the Scots
Brigade, from Holland, were on their march, under
Lieutenant-General Hugh Mackay of Scoury, to
press the siege. Daily matters looked darker and
darker for the gallant Gordon, for now seventy-four
rank and file demanded their discharges, and were,
like their predecessors, stripped and expelled.
The gates were then barricaded, and preparations
made for resistance to the last; but though Sir
James Grant of Dalvey (fomierly King’s Advocate),
and Gordon of Edintore, contrived to throw in a
supply of provisions, the
that he could not hold
out beyond the month
of June unless relieved.
The entire strength
of the garrison, including
okers and gentlemen-
volunteers, was
only eighty-six men,
who had to work
twentv-two Dieces of
@j duke wrote King James -
(exclusive of FACSIMILE OF THE MEDAL
OF THE EDINBURGH REfield-
pieces) ranging VOLUTION CLUB.
from 42 to I a-pounders.
They had no doctor, no
engineer, no money, Mnrl in 1688.)
(=nick in 1753 in ~ommn~mmtiom
a d ~,ztrtu 6,. Wiziiam aw
of the recmwy of tkir Rrligwr
and only thirty barrels of powder in actual quantity.
It was truly a desperate hazard !
By the 18th the entire rock was fully and hopelessly
invested by the Earl of Leven, a Brandenburg
colonel, who displayed a great want of skill; and on
the following night the battlements were blazing
with bonfires and tar barrels in honour of King
Jam& safe arrival in Ireland, of which tidings had
probably been given by Grant of Dalvey. On the
25th came Mackay, with the three battalions of
the Scots Brigade, each consisting of twelve companies,
all splendidly-trained soldiers, a brigade of
guns, and a great quantity of woolpacks with
which to form breastworks. A11 within the Castle
who had gun-shot wounds suffered greatly from
the want of medical attendance, till the duke’s
family physician contrived to join him, probably by
the postern.
On the 13th of March he heavily cannonaded the
western entrenchments, and by dint of shot and
shell retnded the working parties; but General
Mackay now formed a battery of 18-pounders, at
the Highnggs, opposed to the royal lodging and
the half-moon. On the 3rd of April the Duke discovered
that the house of Coates, the ancient ... Castle.] THE. REGIMENT OF EDINBURGH. 63 and all loyalists to quit the city. “At the head of his ...

Vol. 1  p. 64 (Rel. 0.34)

traction of the name from Mollance to Mince, or
Mons Meg, was quite natural to the Scots, who
sink tlie l’s in all similar words. The balls still
preserved in the Castle of Edinburgh, piled on
each side of the gun, are exactly similar to those
found in Thrieve, and are of Galloway granite,
from tlie summit of the Binnan Hill, near the
Carlinwark.+ Andrew Symson, whose description
of Galloway was written 180 years ago, records
“that in the isle of Thrieve, the great gun, called
Nounts Meg, was wrought and made.” This,
though slightly incorrect as to actual spot, being
written so long since, goes to prove the Scottish
origin of the gun, which bears a conspicuous place
in all the treasurer‘s accounts ; and of this pedigree
of the gun Sir Walter Scott was so convinced that,
as he wrote, “ henceforth all conjecture must be set
aside.” In 1489 the gun was employed at the siege
of Dumbarton, then held for Janies 111. by his
adherents. In 1497, when James IV. invaded
England in the cause of Perkin Warbeck, he con-
. veyed it with his other artillery on a new stock
made at St. Leonard’s Craig; and the public
accounts mention tlie sum paid to those who
brought “hame Monse and the other artailzerie
froiii Dalkeith.” It was frequently used during the
civil war in 157r, and two men died of their exertion
in dragging it from the Blackfriars Yard to the
Castle. On that occasion payment was made to a
person through whose roof one of the bullets had
fallen in mistake. In Cromwell’s list of captured
guns, in 1650, mention is made of “the great iron
murderer, Meg ;n and Ray, in his “ Observations ”
on Scotland eleven years after, mentions the “great
old iron gun which they call Mounts Mq, and
some ‘ Meg of Berwick.’” A demi-bastion near
the Scottish gate there bears, or bore, the name of
&legs Momt, which in those days was the term for
a battery. Another, in Stirling, bore the same
name ; hence we may infer that the gun has been
in both places. It was stupidly removed in mistake,
among unserviceable guns, to the Tower of London
~II 1758, where it was shown till 1829, when, by the
patriotic exertions of Sir Walter Scott, it was sent
home to Edinburgh, and escorted from Leith back
to its old place in the Castle by three troops of
cavalry and the 73rd or Perthshire regiment, with
a band of pipers playing at the head of the procession.
We are now in a position to take a brief but
comprehensive view of the whole Castle, of which
we have hitherto dealt in detail, and though we
must go over the same ground, we shall do so at
* ‘‘ History of Woway.”
so rapid a rate that such repetition as is unavoidable
will be overlooked. In the present
day the Castle is entered by a barrier of palisades,
beyond which are a deep ditch and drawbridge
protected by a ttte-de$onf, flanked out and
defended by cannon. Within are two guardhouses,
the barrier and the main, the former
a mean-looking edifice near which once stood a
grand old entrance-gate, having many rich sculptures,
an entablature, 2nd a pediment rising from
pilasters. Above the bridge rises the great halfmoon’
battery of 1573, and the eastern curtain
wal1,Vhich includes an ancient peel with a corbelled
rampart. The path, which millions of armed men
must have trod, winds round the northern side of
the rock, passing three gateways, the inner of which
is a deep-mouthed archway wherein two iron
portcullises once hung. This building once terminated
in a crenelated square tower, but was some
years ago converted into a species of state prison,
and black-hole for the garrison; and therein, in
1792, Robert Watt and David Downie, who were
sentenced to death for treason, were confined;
and therein, in times long past and previous to
these, pined both the Marquis and Earl of Argyle,
and many of high rank but of less note, down
to 1747.
Above the arch are two sculptured hounds, the
supporters of the Duke of Gordon, governor in
1688, and between these is the empty panel
from which Cromwell cast down the royal arms
in 1650. Above it is a pediment and little cornice
between the triglyphs of which may be traced
alternately the star and crowned heart of the
Regent Morton. Beyond this arch, on the left, are
the steps ascending to the citadel, the approaches
to which are defended by loopholes for cannon
and musketry. On the right hand is a gun battery,
named from John Duke of Argyle, comrnanderinchef
in Scotland in 1715 ; below it is Robert
Mylne’s battery, built in 1689 ; and on the acclivity
of the steep hill are a bombproof powder magazine,
erected in 1746, the ordnance office, and
the house of the governor and storekeeper, an
edifice erected apparently in the reign of Queen
Anne, having massive walls and wainscoted apartments.
In the former is a valuable collection of
fire-arms of every pattern, from the wheel-lock
petronel of the fifteenth century down to the latest
rifled arms of precision.
There, also, is the armoury, formed for the
reception of 30,000 rifle muskets, several ancient
brass howitzers, several hundred coats of black mail
(most of which ar6 from tlie arsenal of the knights
of Malta), some forty stand of colours, belonging ... of the name from Mollance to Mince, or Mons Meg, was quite natural to the Scots, who sink tlie l’s in ...

Vol. 1  p. 75 (Rel. 0.34)

ing goods. He accused Edinburgh of an unreasonable
jealousy of its seaport, and invited the inhabitants
of that city “to descend from their proud
hill into the more fruitful plains (of Leith?) to be
filled with the fa.tness and fulness thereof.”
at the same time the Trained Bands of Leith mustered
in arms to attend the great military funeral of
the Marquis of Montrose.
In 1667 the Englishfleet ofsir Jeremiah Smythe,
a brave admiral who afterwards defeated the Dutch,
to find-if Mr. Tucker’s report be a true one-that
all the shipping in “ the principal port of Scotland”
consisted only of some twelve or fourteen vessels,
‘‘ two or three whereof are of only two or three
hundred tons apiece, the rest small vessels for
carrying salt.”
At the Restoration orders were given to destroy
the citadel ; but these were not put in force, and
Scottish flag. The guns of the Castle, Leith, and
Burntisland, responded. The admiral was in search
of the Dutch fleet under Van Ghendt, which had
been in the Firth a few days before, menacing Edinburgh
and Leith.
In March, 1679, the constables of South and
North Leith, in common with those of the city and
Canongate, “ and who11 suburbs of the good town ... goods. He accused Edinburgh of an unreasonable jealousy of its seaport, and invited the inhabitants of that ...

Vol. 5  p. 188 (Rel. 0.33)

‘745.1 THE CLAN REGIMENTS. 327
venerable Market Cross, with the heralds, pursuivants,
and the magistrates (many most unwillingly)
in their robes, while Mr. David Beath
proclaimed “ James VIII., King of Scotland,
England, France, and Ireland,” in the usual old
form, and read the Commission of Regency, dated
1743, with the manifesto of the Prince, dated at
Paris, May 16th, 1745. A number of ladies on
horseback, with swords drawn, acted as a guard of
honour. “ A great multitude of sympathising
spectators was present at the ceremony, and
testified their satisfaction by cordial cheers. In
the evening the long-deserted apartments of
Holyrood were enlivened by a ball, at which the
Jacobite ladies were charmed with the elegant
manners and vivacity of the youthful aspirant to
the throne.’’
On the
following day Lord Nairne came in with the Atliol
Highlanders; old Lord Kellie came in with only
an aged serving man ; the Grants of Glenmomston,
250 strong, marched in on the morning of the
zoth, but the main body of the clan stood aloof,
though Lord Balmerino and m a y other noble
and disinherited gentlemen (who came almost unattended)
joined the standard.
The Highlanders remained within their camp,
or when in the city behaved themselves with the
utmost order and decorum; no outrages occurred,
and no brawls of any kind ensued ; meanwhile, the
garrison remained close within the Castle, and till
after the battle of Preston Pans, no collision took
place between them and the troops.
Their quiet, orderly, and admirable conduct
formed a marked difference between them and
most of the merciless ruffians, who, under Hawley,
Huske, and Ctmberland, disgraced the British
uniform; for the little army of Charles Edward
vas as orderly as it was brave, and organised in a
fashion of its own-the discipline of the modem
system being added easily to the principle of clanship,
and the whole-then only 3,000-were now
completely equipped with the arms found in the
city. The pay of a captain was 2s. 6d. daily; of
a lieutenant, 2s. ; ensign, IS. 6d. ; of a private, 6d.
In the clan regiments every company had a double
set of officers. The Leine chrios (shirt of mail) or
chosen men, were in the centre of each battalion,
to defend the chief and colours. The front rank,
when in line, consisted of the best blood of the
clan and the best armed-particularly those who
had targets. All these received IS. daily while the
Prince’s money lasted.
The battle of Preston Pans is apart from the
history _ . - of Edinburgh; . but there, on the 20th Sep
But few took up arms in his cause.
:ember, the Highlanders, suffering under innumerrble
disadvantages, gained a signal victory, in a
’ew minutes, over a well-disciplined and veteran
rrmy, sweeping it from the field in irretrievable
:onfusion. The cavalry escaped by the speed
if their horses, but all the infantry were killed
)r taken, with their colours, cannon, baggage,
Irums, and military chest containing L6,ooo.
Zharles, who, the night before the victory, slept
.n a little house still shown at Duddingston, bore
lis conquest with great moderation and modesty,
:ven proposing to put the wounded-among whom
vas the Master of Torphichen, suffering from
wenty sword wounds, of which he died-in Holy-
:ood, but the Royal Infirmary was preferred, as the
?alace was required for the purposes ,of royalty.
On the zrst, preceded by IOO pipers playing
:‘The king shall enjoy his own again,” the prisoners,
to the number of 1,500, of whom 80 were
Dfficers, were marched through Edinburgh (prior
:o their committal to Logierait and the Castle
If Doune), together with the baggage train, which
nad been taken by the Camerons, and the colours
if the 13th and 14th Light Dragoons, the 6th, 44th,
+6th, 47th, and Loudon’s Corps. The Prince had
the good taste not to accompany this triumphal
procession. The officers were for a time placed
in Queensberry House in the Canongate.
Curiously enough, Sir John Cope’s cannon were
all captured on a tramway, or line of wooden rails,
the first of the kind known in Europe, and belonging
to some coal-pits in the vicinity of the field.
The pusillanimity of the regulars was very sinylar,
but none more so than that of a party of
light dragoons commanded by Major Caulfield,
who fled from the field to the Castle of Edinburgh,
1 distance of ten miles, permitting themselves to
be pursued by a single horseman, Colquhoun Grant
of Burnside-a little property near Castle Grantwho,
in the battle, at the head of twenty-eight
Highlanders, captured two pieces of cannon. He
pursued the fugitives to the very gates of the
Castle, which received them, and were closed at
his approach. After this he leisurely rode down
the street, and,‘aRer being measured for a tartan
suit in the Luckenbooths, left the city by the
Nether Bow-his resolute aspect, ‘‘ bloody sword,
and blood-stained habiliments ” striking terror into
all who thought of opposing him. Grant was selected
as one of the Prince’s Life Guards, under Lord
Elcho. The dress of these Guards was blue faced
with red, and scarlet waistcoats laced with gold ;
the horse-fumiture the same. He lived long after
these events as a Writer to the Signet in Edinburgh,
where he died in 1792. _. He resided in Gavinloch’s ... THE CLAN REGIMENTS. 327 venerable Market Cross, with the heralds, pursuivants, and the magistrates (many ...

Vol. 2  p. 327 (Rel. 0.33)

High Street.] SCOTTISH COINAGE. 269
~~ ~ ~ ~~~ ~ ~~~
crown for Mary of Guise, and inclosed with arches
the present crown of Scotland.
The early .gold coins of Mary‘s reign were of
native ore, and, during the minority of James VI.,
Cornelius de Vos, a Dutchman, who had licence to
seek for gold and silver, obtained considerable
quantities, according to the records relating to
mines and mining in Scotland, published by Mr.
Cochran-Patrick.
The oldest gold coin found in Scotland bears
- ~~
under pain of death. The coins current in Scotland
in the reign of James 111. were named the
demi, the lion, the groat of the crown, the groat
of the fleur-de-lis, the penny, farthing, and plack.
English coins were also current, but their value
was regulated by the estates. From “Miscelleanea
Scotica” we learn that in 1512 Sir Alexander
Napier of Merchiston found gold in the Pentland
Hills, and from the Balcarres MSS. (in the Advocates’
Library) he and his son figure conspicuously
3
2
RELICS OF THE OLD SCOTTISH MINT.
I, Delicate Set of Balances, 2, Dies ; 3, hnch : 4. Implements for Knarling the Coins : 5, Large Tiding-pin of the Great Door : 6, Roller for
Flattening the Silver; 7, Key of the Mint Door. (From Origiwlr am ia fhr ScottW Antiyuarzizn Musrum.)
the nameof Robert, but which of the three monarchs
so called is uncertain. Gold was not coined in
England till 1257. The first gold coins struck in
Scotland were of a broad surface and very thin.
There is some doubt about when copper coinage
was introduced, but in 1466, during the reign of
James III., an Act was passed to the effect that,
for the benefit 6f the poor, “there be cuinyied
copper money, four to the (silver) penny, having on
the one part the cross of St. Andrew and the crown,
and on the other part the subscription of Edinburgh,”
together with JAMES R.
The same monarch issued a silver coin containing
an alloy of copper, which went under the name
of black money, and to ensure the circulation of
this depreciated coin the parliament ordained that
no counterfeits of it be taken in payment, or used,
in connection With the Mint, of which the latter was
general for some years after 1592.
In 1572 the Regent Morton coined base money
in his castle at Dalkeith, and by proclamation
made it pass current for thrice its real value ; and
having got rid of it all in 1575, by paying workmen
in the repair of Edinburgh Castle and other public
places, he issued a council order reducing it to its
intrinsic value, an act of oppression which won him
the hatred of the people. In the reign of James
VI., all the silver coin, extending to two hundred
and eleven stone ten pounds in weight, was called
in, and a coin was issued from the Mint in Gray’s
Close, “in ten shilling pieces of eleven pennies
fine,” having on one side his effigywith the inscription,
JZZU~US YI., Da‘ Gratia Rex Scofomm,
on the other the royal arms, crowned. In hisreign ... Street.] SCOTTISH COINAGE. 269 ~~ ~ ~ ~~~ ~ ~~~ crown for Mary of Guise, and inclosed with arches the ...

Vol. 2  p. 269 (Rel. 0.33)

I18 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Corstorphine.
of the House of Orkney. He is represented in
armour of the fifteenth century (but the head has
been struck OK); she, in a dress of the same
period, with a breviary clasped in her hands. The
other monument is said to represent the son of
the founder and his wife, whose hands are represented
meekly crossed upon her bosom. Apart
lies the tomb of a supposed crusader, in the south
transept, with a dog at his feet. Traditionally this
is said to be the resting-place of Bernard Stuart,
Lord Aubigny, who came from France as Ambassador
to the Court of James IV., and died in the
adjacent Castle of Corstorphine in 1508. But the
altar tomb is of a much older date, and the shield
has the three heraldic horns of the Forresters duly
stringed. One shield impaled with Forrester, bears
the fesse cheque of Stuart, perhaps for Marian
Stewart, Lady Dalswinton.
It. has been said there are few things more
impressive than such prostrate effigies as these-so
few in Sdotland now-on the tombs of those who
were restless, warlike, and daring in their times;
and the piety of their attitudes contrasts sadly with
the mockery of the sculptured sword, shield, and
mail, and with the tenor of their characters in life.
The cutting of the figures is sharp, and the
draperies are well preserved and curious. There
are to be traced the remains of a piscina and of a
niche, canopied and divided into three compartments.
The temporalities of the church were dispersed
at the Reformation, a portion fell into the
hands. of lay impropriators, and other parts to
educational and other ecclesiastical institutions.
In 1644 the old parish church was demolished,
‘ and the collegiate establishment, in which the
, minister had for some time previously been accustomed
to officiate, became from thenceforward the
only church of the parish.
In ancient times the greater part of this now fertile
district was 8 Swamp, the road through which
was both difficult and dangerous; thus a lamp
was placed at the east end of the church, for the
double purpose of illuminating the shrine of the
Baptist, and guiding the belated traveller through
the perilous morass. The expenses of this lamp
were defrayed by the produce of an acre of land
situate near Coltbndge, called the Lamp Acre to
this day, though it became afterwards an endowment
of the schoolmaster, At what time the kindly
lamp of St. John ceased to guide the wayfarer
by its glimmer is unknown ; doubtless it would be
at the time of the Reformation; but a writer in
1795 relates “ that it is not long since the pulley
for supporting it was taken down.”
Of the Forrester family, Wilson says in his
“ Reminiscences,” published in 1878, “ certainly
their earthly tenure, outside‘ of their old collegiate
foundation, has long been at an end. Of their
castle under Corstorphine Hill, and their town
mansion in the High Street of Edinburgh, not
one stone remains upon another. The very wynd
that so long preserved their name, where once
they flourished among the civic magnates, has
vanished.
“Of what remained of their castle we measured
the fragments of the foundations in 1848, and
found them to consist of a curtain wall, facing the
west, one hundred feet in length, flanked by two
round towers, each twentyone feet in diameter
externally. The ruins were then about seven feet
high, except a fragment on the south, about twelve
feet in height, with the remains of an arrow hole.”
Southward and eastward of this castle there lay
for ages a great sheet of water known as Corstorphine
Loch, and so deep was the Leith in those
days, that provisions, etc., for the household were
brought by boat from the neighbourhood of Coltbridge.
Lightfoot mentions that the Loch of Corstorphine
was celebrated for the production of the
water-hemlock, a plant much more deadly than the
common hemlock,
The earliest proprietors of. Corstorphine traceable
are Thomas de Marshal and William de la
Roche, whose names are in the Ragman Roll
under date 1296. In the Rolls of David 11.
there was a charter to Hew Danyelstoun, “ of the
forfaultrie of David Marshal, Knight, except
Danyelstoun, which Thomas Carno got by gift,
and Llit lands of Cortorphing whilk Malcolm Ramsay
got” (Robertson’s “ Index.”)
They were afterwards possessed by the Mores of
Abercurn, from whom, in the time of Sir William
More, under King Robert II., they were obtained
by charter by Sir Adam Forrester, whose name
was of great antiquity, being deduced from the
office of Keeper of the King’s Forests, his armorial
bearings being three hunting horns. In that charter
he is simply styled “Adam Forrester, Burgess of
Edinburgh.” This was in 1377, and from thenceforward
Corstorphine became the chief title of
his family, though he was also Laird of Nether
Liberton.
Previous to this his name appears in the Burgh
Records as chief magistrate of Edinburgh, 24th
April, 1373 ; and in 1379 Robert 11. granted him
“twenty merks of sterlings from the custom of
the said burgh, granted to him in heritage by our
other letters . . . , until we, or our heirs,
infeft the said Adam, or his heirs, in twenty merks ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Corstorphine. of the House of Orkney. He is represented in armour of the fifteenth ...

Vol. 5  p. 118 (Rel. 0.33)

... Vlll OLD' AND NEW EDINBURGH.
CHAPTER XXXIX.
, T H E W E S T B 0 W (conclud-d.) PAGE
A Hand to Hand Combat in the Bow-Murder'in 1h5 in the Bow-The House of Lord Ruthven-The Hidden Sword-Processions in the
Bow-The Jacobite Prisoners-House of Provost Stewart-A Secret Entertainment to Prince Charles-Donaldson the Printer-State of
Printing and Publishing in his Day-The Edimburck Adwcrfiser-Splendid Fortunc of his Descendant-Town House ,of the
Napiers of Wrightshouse-Trial of Barbara Napier for Witchcdt-Clcckmaker's Land-Paul Romieu-The Mahogany Land-
Duncan Campbell, Chirurgeon-Templar Houses
.
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 315
CHAPTER XL.
E D I N B U R G H I N 1745.
Pmvost Stewart-Advance of the Jacobite Clans-Preparations far DefenctCapturc of the City-Lachiel's Surp&-Entance of Prince
Charles-Arrival at Holyrood-JamesVIII. Proclaimed at the Cross-Conduct of the Highland Tmps in the City-Colquhoun Grant-
A Triumphal ProcessiOn--Guest's Council of War-Preston's Fidelity . . . . . . . . . . . . . jZZ
CHAPTER XLI.
EDINBURGH IN 1745 (concluded),
General Guest's "Brave~~"-Popularity of the Prince-Castle Blockaded-It Fires on the City-Leith Bombarded-End of the Blockade
-Departure of the Highland Army for ' England-Prisoners in the Castle-Macdonald of Teindreich-Duke of Cumberland in
Ediiburgh-Burning of the Standards . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 329
CHAPTER XLII.
T H E NORTH BRIDGE.
The New Town projected by Jams VIL-The North Bridge and other Structures by the Earl of Mar, 1728-Oppased in 175g-Foundation
Stone Laid-Erection Delayed till 1$5-Henderson's Plan-William Mylne appointed Architect-Terms of the Contract-Fall of the
Bridge-Repired and Completed--The Upper and Lower Flesh-Markets-Old Post OffictAdam Black-Ann Street-The Ettrick
Shepherd and the .. Nocks"-The Bridge Widened . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 334
CHAPTER XLIII.
EAST SIDE OF THE NORTH BRIDGE.
Dingwall's Castle-Whitefield's " Preachings "-History of the Old Theatre Royal-The Building-David Ross's Management-Leased to
Mr. Foote-Then to Mr. Digges-Mr. Moss-Mrs. Yates-Next Leased to Mr. Jackson-The Siddons Ram-Reception of the Great
Actress-Mrs. Baddeley-New Patent-the playhouse Riot--"The Scottish Roscius"-A Ghost-Expiry of the Patent . . . 340
CHAPTER XLIV..
EAST SIDE OF THE NORTH BRIDGE (continued).
Old Theatre Royal-Management of Mr. Henry Siddons-Mr. Mumy-Miss O'Neill-Production of Rd Roy-Visit of George IV. to the
Theatre- Eoinburgh Theatrical Fund-Scott and his Novels-Retirement of Mr. Mumy-The Management of Mr. and ME.
Wyndham-The Closing Night of the Theatre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 348
CHAPTER XLV.
EAST SIDE OF THE NORTH BRIDGE (codinwed).
Memorabilia of the General Post Office-First Postal Svstem in Scotland-First Communication with Irdand-Sanctions given by the Scottish
Parliament-Expenses of the Establkhment at various Periods-The Horse Posts-Violation of Letter Bags-Casualties of the Period-
The First Stage Coach-Peter Willison-The Various Post Ofice Buildings--The Waterloo Place Office-Royal Arms Removed-
New 06ce Built-Staffand F d Details . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .353
CHAPTER XLVI.
EAST SIDE OF THE NORTH BRIDGE (concluded).
The Old Orphan Hospital-It5 Foundation, Object, and Removal-Lady Glenorchy's Chapel-Her Disputes with the Presbytery-Dr. Snell
JonesDemolition of the Chapel and School-Old PhysiC Gardens Formed-The Gardens-& Andrew Balfour-James Suthe.-land-
. Inundatedin ~~Sutherland5EffortstoImprovetheGardens-ProfessorHope . . . . . . . . . . . 359 ... Vlll OLD' AND NEW EDINBURGH. CHAPTER XXXIX. , T H E W E S T B 0 W (conclud-d.) PAGE A Hand to Hand Combat in ...

Vol. 2  p. 390 (Rel. 0.33)

46 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. IHolyrood
these ecclesiastical foundations :-The Priory of St.
Mary’s Isle, in Galloway, gifted by Fergus, Lord of
Galloway, who died a monk of Holyrood in 1161 ;
the Priory of Blantyre, secluded on a rock above
the Clyde ; Kowadill, in Hemes, gifted by Mac-
Leod of Herries ; Oransay and Colonsay-in the
former still stands their priory, built by a Lord of
the Isles, one of the finest relics of religious antiquity
in the Hebrides; the church of Melgynch,
granted to them by Matthew, Abbot of Dunkeld,
in 1289; the church of Dalgarnock, granted to
them by John, Bishop of Glasgow, in 1322 j and
the church and vicarage of Kirkcudbright, by
of Haddington, mm ferra de Clerkynton, per rectas
divisas. In 1177 the monastery was still in the
Castle of Edinburgh. In 1180 Alexius, a subdeacon,
held a council of the Holy Cross near
Edinburgh, with reference to the long-disputed
consecration of John Scott, Bishop of St. Andrews,
when a double election had taken place.
VI. WILLIAM II., abbot in 1206. During his
time, John Bishop of Candida Casa resigned his
mitre, became a canon .of Holyrood, and was
buried in the chapter-house, where a stone long
marked his grave.
VII. WALTER, Prior of Inchcolm, abbot in
111. WILLIAM I. succeeded in 1152. He witnessed
several charters of Malcolm IV. and
William the Lion; and when he became aged and
infirm, he vowed to God that he would say his
Psalter every day. He enclosed the abbey with a
strong wall.
IV. ROBERT is said to have been abbot about
the time of William the Lion. “ He granted to
the inhabitants of the newly-projected burgh of the
Canongate various privileges, which were confirmed,
with additional benefactions, by David II., Robert
III., and James 111. These kings granted to the
bailies and community the annuities payable by the
burgh, and also the common muir between the ’
lands of Broughton on the west and the lands of
Pilrig on the east, on the north side of the road
from Edinburgh to Leith.”
V. JOHN, abbot in 1173, witnessed a charter of
Richard Bishop of St. Andrews (chaplain to
Malcolm IV.), granting to his canons the church
the chapel of St Mary.
XI, HENRY, the next abbot, was named Bishop
of Galloway in 1253; consecrated in 1255 by the
Archbishop of York,
XII. RADULPH, abbot, is mentioned in a gift of
lands at Pittendreich to the monks of St. Marie de
Newbattle.
XIII. ADAM, a traitor, and adherent of England,
who did homage to Edward I. in 1292, and for
whom he examined the records in the Castle of
Edinburgh. He is called Alexander by Dempster.
XIV. ELIAS 11. is mentioned as abbot at the
time of the Scots Templar Trials in 1309, and in a
deed of William Lamberton, Bishop of St. Andrews,
in 1316. In his time, Holyrood, like Melrose and
Dryburgh, was ravaged by the baffled army of
Edward 11. in 1322.
XV. SYMON OF WEDALE, abbot at the vigil of
St. Barnabas, 1326, when Robert I. held a Parliament
in Holyrood, at which was ratified a concord ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. IHolyrood these ecclesiastical foundations :-The Priory of St. Mary’s Isle, in ...

Vol. 3  p. 46 (Rel. 0.33)

The Mound.] A PROPOSED HARBOUR. no
“And such a lot, my Skene, was thine,
When thou of late wert doomed to twine- - Just when thy bridal hour was by-
The cypress with the myrtle tie.
Just on thy bride her sire had smiled,
And blessed the union of his child,
When love must change its joyous cheer,
And wipe affection’s filial tear.”
In the subsequent March Scott had left his
beloved house in Castle Street for ever.
Among the memorials of the Pictish race, illustrated
so ably in Dr. Stuarfs “ Sculptured Stones
of Scotland,” is one with the peculiar emblems of
the crescent and sceptre, which was found under
the Castle rock and near the west churchyard.
The line of railway which intersects the garden,
and passes by a tunnel under the new portion of
St. Cuthbert’s churchyard, fails to mar its beauty,
as it is almost entirely hidden by trees and
shrubbery, especially about the base of the rock,
from which the castle “looks down upon the
city as if out of another world: stem with all its
peacefulness, its garniture of trees, its slopes of
grass. The rock is dingy enough in colour,
but after a shower its lichens laugh our greenly
in the returning sun, while the rainbow is brightening
on the lowering sky beyond. How deep
the shadow which the castle throws at noon
on the gardens at its feet, where the children
play! How grand when giant bulk and towery
crown blacken against the sunset !
In the extreme western portion of the gardens
lie some great fragments of masonry, which have
fallen down in past sieges from some of the older
walls in the vicinity of the sallyport, while thefoundations
of these are to be traced from point to point,
some feet on the outside of the present fortifications,
and lower down the rock.
In the western hollow is an ornamental fountain
of considerable beauty, and formed of iron, named
after its donor, Mr. Ross, who spent A3;ooo on
its erection. In 1876 the gardens were acquired
by the citizens, and were thea much improved
They are used in summer for musicaI promenades,
and in contour and embellishment, though
much more extensive, have a certain resemblance
to the gardens on the east side of the Earthen
Mound.
For long years after the loch had passed away
the latter was but a reedy, marshy hollow, intersected
by what was called the Little Mound, that
led from near South St. Andrew Street to the foot
of Mary King’s Close. The ground was partially
drained when the North Bridge was built, but
more effectually about 1821, when it was let as a
nursery.
.When the Union canal was projected, towards
the close of the last century, the plans for it, not
unlike those of the Earl of Mar in 1728, included
the continuation of it through the bed of the North
Loch, past where a street was built, and actually
called Canal Street. “From thence it was proposed
to conduct it to Greenside, in the area of
which was an immense harbour ; and this, again,.
being connected by a broad canal with the sea, it
was expected that by such means the New Town
would be converted into a seaport, and the
unhappy traders of Leith compelled either to
abandon their traffic or remove within the precincts
of their jealous rivals. Chimerical as this project
may now appear, designs were furnished by experienced
engineers, a map of the whole plan was
engraved on a large scale, and no doubt our civic
reformers rejoiced in the anticipation of surmounting
the disadvantages of an inland position, and
seeing the shipping of the chief ports of Europe
crowding into the heart of their new capital ! ”
The operations for forming the canal were
delayed in 1776 by a dispute between the magistrates
and the feuars of the extended royalty
relative to Canal Street, that ended in the Court
of Session, which sustained “ the defences pled by
the magistrates of Edinburgh, and assoilie from the
conclusion of the declarator j but with respect to
the challenge brought with regard to particular
houses being built contrary to the Act of Parliament,
1698, remit to the Lord Ordinary to hear
parties to do as he shall see cause.” The Lord
President, the Lord Justice Clerk, and Lord
Covington, were of a different opinion from the
rest of the court, and condemned the conduct of
the magistrates in very severe terms.
The Act of 1698, referred to, was one restricting
the height of houses within the city, and to
the effect that none should be above five storeys,
with a front wall of three feet in thickness at the
base. In March, 1776, the dispute was adjusted,
and a print of the time tells us that the public
‘‘ will now be gratified with a pleasure-ground upon
the south side of Princes Street, to a considerable
extent ; and the loch will in time be formed into a
canal, which will not only be ornamental, but of
great benefit to the citizens”
This Utopian affair was actually commenced, for
in the Edinburgh We&y Magazine of the 28th
March, 1776, we are told that on the 25th instant
twenty labourers “ began to work at the banks of
the intended canal between the old and new town
but how far the work proceeded we hake no means
of knowing.
The site of the projected canal is now occupied ... Mound.] A PROPOSED HARBOUR. no “And such a lot, my Skene, was thine, When thou of late wert doomed to twine- ...

Vol. 3  p. 99 (Rel. 0.33)

Merchiston.] THE NAPIERS OF MERCHISTON. 35
likeness of the founder, painted by Sir James
Foulis of Woodhall, Bart.
In 1870 the original use to which the foundation
was put underwent a change, and the hospital
became a great public school for boys and girls.
At the western extremity of what was the Burghmuir,
near where lately was an old village of that
name (at the point where the Colinton road diverges
from that which leads to Biggar), there stands, yet
unchanged amid all its new surroundings, the
ancient castle of Merchiston, the whilom seat of a
race second to none in Scotland for rank and talent
-the Napiers, now Lords Napier and Ettrick. It
is a lofty square tower, surmounted by corbelled
battlements, a ape-house, and tall chimneys. It
was once surrounded by a moat, and had a secret
avenue or means of escape into the fields to the
north. As to when it was built, or by whom, no
record now remains.
In the missing rolls of Robert I., the lands of
Merchiston and Dalry, in the county of Edinburgh,
belonged in his reign to William Bisset, and under
David II., the former belonged to William de
Sancto Claro, on the resignation of Williani Bisset,
according to Robertson’s “Index,” in which we find
a royal charter, “datum est apud Dundee,” 14th
August, 1367, to John of Cragyof the lands of
Merchiston, which John of Creigchton had resigned.
So the estate would seem to have had several
proprietors before it came into the hands of
Alexander Napier, who was Provost of Edinburgh
in 1438, and by this acquisition Merchiston became
the chief title of his family.
His son, Sir Alexander, who was Comptroller of
Scotland under James 11. in 1450, and went on a
pilgrimage to St. Thomas of Canterbury in the
following year-for which he had safe-conduct from
the King of England-was Provost of Edinburgh
between 1469 and 1471- He was ambassador to
the Court of the Golden Fleece in 1473, and was
no stranger to Charles the Bold ; the tenor of his
instructions to whom from James II., shows that he
visited Bruges a d the court of Burgundy before
that year, in 1468, when he was present at the
Tournament of the Golden Fleece, and selected a
suit of brilliant armour for his sovereign.
Sir Alexander, fifth of Merchiston, fell at Flodden
with James IV.
John Napier of Merchiston was Provost 17th
of May, 1484, and his son and successor, Sir Archibald,
founded a chaplaincy and altar in honour of St.
Salvator in St. Giles’s Church in November, 1493.
His grandson, Sir Archibald Napier, who married
a daughter of Duncan Campbell of Glenorchy, was
slain at the battle of Pinkie, in 1547.
Sir Alexander Napier of Merchiston and Edinbellie,
who was latterly Master of the Mint to
James VI., was father of John Napier the
celebrated inventor of the Logarithms, who was
born in Merchiston Castle in 1550, fgur years after
the birth of Tycho Brahe, and fourteen before that
of Galileo, at a time when the Reformation in
Scotland was just commencing, as in the preceding‘
year John Knox had been released from the
French galleys, and was then enjoying royal
patronage in England. His mother was Janet,
only daughter of Sir Francis Bothwell, and sister
of Adam, Bishop of Orkney. At the time of his
birth his father was only sixteen years of age. He
was educated at St. Salvator’s College, St. Andrews,
where he matriculated 1562-3, and afterwards spent
several years in France, the Low Countries, and
Italy; he applied himself closely to the study of
mathematics, and it is conjectured that he gained
a taste for that branch of learning during his residence
abroad, especially in Itily, where at that
time were many mathematicians of high repute.
While abroad young Napier escaped some perils
that existed at home. In 150s a dreadful pest
broke out in Edinburgh, and his father and family
were exposed to the contagion, “ by the vicinity,”
says Mark Napier, ‘‘ of his mansion to the Burghmuir,
upon which waste the infected were driven
out to grovel and die, under the very walls of
Merchiston.”
In his earlier years his studies took a deep theological
turn, the fruits of which appeared in his
“ Plain Discovery of the Revelation of St John,”
which he published at Edinburgh in 1593, and
dedicated to James VI. But some twenty years
before that time his studies must have been sorely
interrupted, as his old ancestral fortalice lay in the
very centre of the field of strife, when Kirkaldy
held out the castle for Queen Mary, and the savage
Douglas wars surged wildly round its walls.
On the 2nd April, 1572, John Napier, then in his
twenty-second year, was betrothed to Elizabeth,
daughter of Sir James Stirling of Keir ; but as he
had incurred the displeasure of the queen’s party
by taking no active share in her interests, on the
18th of July he was arrested by the Laid of Minto,
and sent a prisoner to the Castle of Edinburgh,
then governed by Sir TVilliam Kirkaldy, who in the
preceding year had bombarded Merchiston with
his iron guns because certain soldiers of the king’s
party occupied it, and cut off provisions coming
north for the use of his garrison. The solitary
tower formed the key of the southern approach
to the city ; thus, whoever triumphed, it became the
object of the opponent’s enmity. ... THE NAPIERS OF MERCHISTON. 35 likeness of the founder, painted by Sir James Foulis of Woodhall, ...

Vol. 5  p. 35 (Rel. 0.32)

woman's cap, it was perhaps the most lawless land
in Europe.
All save those who possessed. zoo merks of
yearly rent were forbidden to wear silk or furs, or
borderings of pearl or bullion; and the feminine
rove of display attracted the attention of Parliarnent
at Edinburgh in 1457. It was ordained that
citizens should make their wives and daughters
appear in costumes suitable to their estate and
position ; on their heads short curches with little
and their wives the same ; the curches of the latter
to be of their own making, and not to exceed the
price " of XI pennyes the elne."
By the same laws, advocates who spoke for money
in Parliament were ordained " to have habits of
grene, of the fassoun of a tuneike, and the sleeves
to be oppin as a tabert."
From the date of the cruel assassination of
James I.-the poet, soldier, and lawgiver-may be
considered the time when Edinburgh became really
[The Castle.
resort to " hostillaries," for the encouragement of
the latter.
During the reign of James I. and his successor
laws were passed against excess in dress j and it
has been said that, though edicts were passed for
everything in Scotland, even to the shape of a
hoods ; (' and as to their gownes, that na woman
weare mertrickes nor letteis, nor tailes unfit in
length, nor furred under, but on the Halie-daie f
and that no labourers nor husbandmen were to
wear anything on work-days but grey and white ;
and even on holidays but light blue, green, red, ... cap, it was perhaps the most lawless land in Europe. All save those who possessed. zoo merks of yearly ...

Vol. 1  p. 28 (Rel. 0.32)

People don't play riddle games with Giants, or get tricked by Faerie Queens. They don't follow Blind Maniacs into Futures, or have their Lives saved by Death.

Timothy Hunter in The Books of Faerie

54 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Holymd
under his great seal, granted to David, Abbot of
Holyrood, a piece of land within the Castle of
Edinburgh whereon to erect a house, to which the
monks, their servants and families, might repair in
time of peace and war. This piece of ground
was eighty feet in length and eighty in breadth,
wherever the abbot might choose, “beyond the
site of our manor” (the royal lodging?); “the
said abbot and his successors paying therefor to
us and to our heirs a silver penny at the said
castle on Whitsunday yearly, if asked only, so
that the foresaid abbot and his successors and
their servants shall be bound to take the oath
of fidelity for the due security of the said castle
to the keeper thereof, who may be for the time,
have free ish and entry to the said castle at accustomed
and proper hours.”
On the 5th April, 1391, King Robert III., undei
his great seal, granted a charter to the Abbey of
Holyrood, confirming the charter of David 11. to
the abbey, dated 30th December, 1343. It is dated
at Edinburgh. When the abbey became a species
of palace has never been distinctly ascertained,
but Robert 111. appears sometimes to have made
Holyrood his residence. James I. occasionally
kept his court there; and in the abbey his queen
was delivered of twin princes, on the 16th October,
14 I 6-Alexandeq who died, and James, afterwards
second of that name.
In 1428 a remarkable episode occurred in the
abbey church. Alexander, Lord of the Isles, who
had been in rebellion against James I., but had
been utterly defeated by the royal troops in
Lochaber, sent messengers to the king to sue for
mercy. But the latter, justly incensed, refused to
enter into .my negotiations with an outlawed
fugitive. Alexander, driven to despair, and compelled
to fly from place to place, was compelled at
last to trust to the royal clemency. Travelling
secretly to Edinburgh, he suddenly presented himself,
upon a solemn festival, before the high altar 01
Holyrood, and holding his‘drawn sword by the
point, he presented the hilt to the astonished king,
in token of his unconditional submission, and
falling on his knees, in presence of Queen Jane
and the whole court, implored the royal mercy.
The ill-fated James granted him his life, at the
tender intercession of his royal consort, but sent
him a prisoner to the sequestered castle of
Tantallon, on its sea-beat Tock, under the charge
of his nephew, the Earl of Angus. The island
chief eventually received a free pardon, was restored
to all his honours, castles, and estates, and stood
as sponsor for the twin princes, Alexander and
James, at the font
.
In 1437 the Parliament met at Edinburgh, on
the 25th March, after the murder of James I., and
adopted immediate measures for the government of
the country. Their first act was the coronation of
the young prince, in his sixth year, on whose head
at Holyrood, as James II., the crown was solemnly
placed by James Kennedy, Bishop of St. Andrews,
in presence of a great concourse of the nobles,
clergy, and representatives of towns, amid the usual
testimonies of devotion and loyalty.
On March 27th, 1439, Patrick Abbot of Holyrood
and his convent granted a charter to Sir Robert
Logan of Restalrig, and his heirs, of the ofice of
bailie over their lands of St. Leonard’s, in the town
of Leith, “from the end of the great volut of
William Logane, on the east part of the common
gate that passes to the ford over the water of Leith,
beside the waste land near the house of John of
Turyng on the west part, and common Venale
called St. Leonard’s Wynd, as it extended of old
on the south part, and the water of the port OF
Leith on the north, and . . . . in the ninth year of
the pontificate of our most holy father and lord,
Eugenius IV., by Divine Providence Pope.”
Chronologically, the next event connected with
the abbey was the arrival of Mary of Gueldres in
1449. In company with John Railston, Bishop
of Dunkeld, and Nicholas Otterburn, official of
Lothian, the Lord Chancellor Crichton went to
France to seek among the princesses of that
friendly court a suitable bride for young James
11.; but no match being suitable, by the advice
of Charles VII. these ambassadors proceeded to
Burgundy, and, with the cordial concurrence of
Duke Philip the Good, made proposals to his
kinswoman, hlary, the only daughter and heiress
of Arnold, Duke of Gueldres, and in 1449 the
engagement was formally concluded. Philip promised
to pay _f60,boo in gold as a dowry, while
James, on the other hand, settled IO,OOO crowns
upon her, secured on land in Strathearn, Athole,
Methven, and East Lothian, while relinquishing all;
claim to the Duchy of Gueldres, in the event of
an heir male being born to Duke Arnold ; and the
Parliament met at Stirling, resolved that the royal
nuptials should be conducted on a scale of splendour
suited to the occasion.
The fleet containing the bride anchored in June
in the Forth. She was “young, beautiful, and of a
masculine constitution,” says Hawthornden, and
came attended by a splendid train of knights and
nobles from France and Burgundy, including tlie
Archduke Sigisniund of Austria, the Duke of
Brittany, and the Lord of Campvere (the three
brothers-in-law of the King of Scotland), togetho ... don't play riddle games with Giants, or get tricked by Faerie Queens. They don't follow Blind Maniacs into ...

Vol. 3  p. 54 (Rel. 0.32)

Cmigmillar.] CRAIGMILLAR CASTLE. Si
Robert XI., “of the lands of Craigmillar, in Vic
du Edinburgh, whilk William de Capella resigned,
sustennand an archer in the king‘s army.” (Robertson’s
“ Index”)
Under the same monarch, some time after,
another charter was granted, confirming “John de
Capella, keeper of the king’s chapel, in the lands of
Erolly (sic), whilk Simon de Prestoun resigned ; he,
John, performing the same service in the king’s
chapel that his predecessors used to perform for
the third part of Craigmillar.”
The date 1474 above the principal gate probably
refers to some repairs. Four years afterwards,
William, a successor of Sir Simon Preston,
was a member of the parliament which met at
Edinburgh June I, 1478. He had the title .of
Domine de Craigmillar, the residence of his race
for nearly three hundred years.
In 1479 this castle became connected with a
dark and mysterious State tragedy. The Duke
of Albany was accused of conspiring treasonably
with the English against the life of his brother,
James III., but made his escape from Edinburgh
Castle, as related in Volume I. Their younger
brother John, Earl of Mar, was placed a prisoner
in Craigmillar on the same charges. James 111.
did not possess, it was alleged, the true characteristics
of a king in those days. He loved music,
architecture, poetry, and study. “He was ane
man that loved solitude,” says Pitscottie, “and
desired never to hear of warre ”-a desire that the
Scottish noblemen never’ cared to patronise.
Mar, a handsome and gay fellow, “ knew nothing
but nobility.” He was a keen hunter, a sportsman,
and breeder of horses for warlike purposes.
Whether Mar was guilty or not of the treasons which
were alleged against him will never be known, but
certain it is that he never left his captivity alive.
Old annalists say that he chose his own mode 01
death, and had his veins opened in a warm bath
but Drummond, in his “ History of the Jameses,’
says he was seized by fever and delirium in Craig
millar, and was’ removed to the Canongate, wherc
he died in the hands of the king‘s physician, eithei
from a too profuse use of phlebotomy, or from his
having, in a fit of frenzy, torn off the bandages.
In 1517 Balfour records that the young king
James V. was removed from Edinburgh to Craig
millar, and the queen-mother was not permitted tc
see him, in consequence of the pestilence ther
raging. But he resided here frequently. In 1544
it is stated in the “ Diurnal of Occurents ” that thc
fortress was too hastily surrendered to the Englisl
invaders, who sacked and burned it.
By far the most interesting associations of Craig
nillar, like so many other castles in the south of
kotland, are those in which Queen Mary behrs a
)art, as she made it a favourite country retreat.
Within its walls was drawn up by Sir James
Balfour, with unique legal solemnity, the bond of
Dardey’s murder, and there signed by so many
iobles of the first rank, who pledged themselves
o stand by Bothwell with life and limb, in weal or
woe, after its perpetration, which bond of blood the
wily lawyer afterwards destroyed.
Some months after the murder of Rizzio, and
while the grasping and avaricious statesmen of the
!ay were watching the estrangement of Nary and
ier husband, on the 2nd December, 1560, Le
3oc, the French Ambassador, wrote thus to the
4rchbishop of Glasgow :-“ The Queen is for the
xesent at Craigmillar, about a league distant from
.his city. She is in the hands of the physicians,
and I do assure you is not at all well, and do
Jelieve the principal part of her disease to consist
n deep grief and sorrow. Nor does it seem possible
to make her forget the same. Still she repeats
ihese words--‘lcould wish to be dead!”’
Craigmillar narrowly escaped being stained with
the blood of the dissolute Darnley. It would zppear
that when he returned from Glasgow, early in
1567, instead of lodging him in the fatal Kirk-0’-
Field, the first idea of the conspirators was to bring ,
him hither, when it was suggested that his recovery
from his odious disease might be aided by the
sanitary use of a bath--“ an ominous proposal to a
prince, who might remember what tradition stated
to have happened ninety years earlier within the
same walls.”
The vicinity abounds with traditions of the
hapless Mary. Her bed closet is still pointed out ;
and on the east side of the road, at Little France,
a hamlet below the castle walls, wherein some of
her French retinue was quartered, a gigantic
plane-the largest in the Lothians-is to this day
called “ Queen Mary’s Tree,’’ from the unauthenticated
tradition that her own hands planted it, and
as such it has been visited by generations. In
recent storms it was likely to suffer ; and Mr. Gilmour
of Craigmillar, in September, 1881, after consulting
the best authorities, had a portion of the
upper branches sawn off to preserve the rest
In ‘‘ the Douglas wars,” subsequent to the time
when Mary was a captive and exile, Craigmillar
bore its part, especially as a prison ; and terrible
times these were, when towns, villages, and castles
were stormed and pillaged, as if the opposite
factions were inspired by the demon of destruction
-when torture and death were added to military
execution, and the hapless prisoners were hurried ... CRAIGMILLAR CASTLE. Si Robert XI., “of the lands of Craigmillar, in Vic du Edinburgh, whilk William ...

Vol. 5  p. 59 (Rel. 0.32)

tumblers. Everything about him-his coat, his
wig, his figure, his face, his scrofula, his St. Vitus’s
dance, his rolling walk, his blinking eyes, his insatiable
appetite for fish sauce and veal pie with
plums, his mysterious practice of treasuring up
scraps of orange-peel, his morning slumbers, his
saw a man led by a bear!” So romantic and
fervid was his admiration of Johnson, that he tells
us he added A500 to the fortune of one of his
daughters, Veronica, because when a baby she was
not frightened by the hideous visage of the lexicographer.
LORD SEMPLE’S HOUSE, CASTLE HILL.
midnight disputations, his contortions, his mutterings,
his gruntings, his puffings, his vigorous,
acute, and ready eloquence, his sarcastic Wit, his
vehemence and his insolence, his fits of tempestuous
rage,” &e, all served to make it a source of
wonder to Mrs. Boswell that her husband could
abide, much less worship, such a man. Thus, she
once said to him, with extreme warmth, “I have
seen many a bear led by a man, bur I never before
’
Among those invited to meet him at James’s
Court was Margaret Duchess of Douglas, a lady
noted among those of her own rank for her illiteracy,
and whom Johnson describes as “talking
broad Scotch with a paralytic voice, as scarcely
understood by her own countrymen ; ” yet it was
remarked that in that which we would term now a
spirit of ‘‘ snobbery,” Johnson reserved his attentions
during the whole evening exclusively for the ... Everything about him-his coat, his wig, his figure, his face, his scrofula, his St. Vitus’s dance, his ...

Vol. 1  p. 100 (Rel. 0.31)

Grassmarket.] EXECUTIONS IN THE GUSSMARKET. 231
Market, from the corner of Marlin’s Wynd (where
Blair Street is now) to the east end of the Grassmarket,
where it continued to be held until within
the last few years.
It was not until about a century later that this
great market place began to acquire an interest of
a gloomy and peculiar character, as the scene of
the public execution of many victims of religious
intolerance, who died heroically here, and also as
the spot where niany criminals met their doom.
Prior to the adoption of this place for public
executions, the Castle Hill and Market Cross had
been the spots chosen j and a sword, as in France
and elsewhere on the Continent, was used, before
the introduction of the Maiden, for beheading.
, Thus we find that in 1564, the magistrates, because
the old beheading sword had become worn out, reteived
from William Macartnay “ his tua-handit
sword, to be usit for ane heidmg sword,” and
gave him the sum of five pounds therefor.
Among some of the most noted eFecutions in the
Grassmarket were those of the fanatic Mitchel in
1676, for attempting to shoot Archbishop Sharp in
1668; of Sergeant John Nisbett, of Hardhill, in
1685, who had received seventeen wounds at the
battle of Pentland, and fought at Drumclog, according
to the Wodrow Biographies ; of Isabel Alison
and Marion Harvey-the latter only twenty years of
age-two young women, for merely having heard
Donald Cargill preach. The human shambles in
this place of wailing witnessed executions of this
kind almost daily till the 17th of February, 1688,
when James Renwick, the celebrated field preacher,
and the last martyr of the Covenant, was found
guilty, on his own confession, of disowning an uncovenanted
king, and executed in the twenty-sixth
yearof his age. Most of the hundred and odd
pious persons who suffered for the same cause in
Edinburgh breathed their last prayers on this spot.
Hence arose the Duke of Rothes’ remark, when a
covenanting prisoner proved obdurate, “ Then let
him glorify God in the Grassmarket”-the death
of that class of victinis always being accompanied
by much psalm-singing on the scaffold. In the time
of Charles II., Alexander Cockburn, the city hangman,
having murdered a King’s Bluegown, died here
the death he had so often meted out to others.
In 1724 the same place was the scene of the
partial execution of a woman, long remembered in
Edinburgh, as ‘‘ Half-hangit Maggie Dickson.” She
was a native of Inveresk, and was tried under
the Act of 1690 for concealment of pregnancy, in
the case of a dead child ; and the defence that she
was a married woman, though living apart from her
husband, who was working in the keels at New-
’
castle, proved of no avail, and a broadside of the
day details her execution with homble minuteness ;
how the hangman did his usual office of dragging
down her legs, and how the ’body, after hanging
the allotted time, was put into a coffin, thecooms
of which were nailed firmly to the gibbet-foot.
After a scuffle with some surgeon-apprentices
who wished to possess themselves of the body, her
friends conveyed it away by the Society Port, but
the jolting of the cart in which the coffin lay had
stirred vitality and set the blood in motion. Thus
she was found to be alive when passing Peffermiln,
and was completely restored at Musselburgh, where
flocks of people came daily to see her. She had
several children after this event, and lived long as
the keeper of an ale-house and as a crier of salt in
the streets of Edinburgh. (“ Dom Ann.” III., StaL
Acct., Vol XVI).
In the account of the Porteous Mob eo1 I.,
pp. I 28-13 I), we have referred to the executions of
Wilson and of Porteous, in 1736, in this placethe
street “crowded with rioters, crimson with
torchlight, spectators filling every window of the
tall houses-the Castle standing high above the
tumult amidst the blue midnight and the stars.”
It Continued to be the scene of such events till
1784; and in a central situation at the east end
of the market there remained until 1823 a qoassive
block of sandstone, having in its c h t r ~ a quadrangular
hole, which served as the socket of the
gallows-tree ; but instead of the stone there is now
only a St. Andrew’s Cross in the causeway to
indicate the exact spot.
The last person who suffered in the Grassmarket
was James Andrews, hanged there on the 4th of
February, 1784, for a robbery committed in Hope
Park ; and the first person executed at the west end
of the old city gaol, was Alexander Stewart, a youth
pf only fifteen, who had committed many depredations,
and at last had been convicted of breaking
into the house of Captain Hugh Dalrymple, of Fordell
in the Potterrow, and NeidpathCastle, the seat of
the Duke of Queensberry, from which he carried off
many articles of value. It was expressly mentioned
by the judge in his sentence, that he was to be
hanged in the Grassmarket, “or any other place
the magistrates might appoint,” thus indicating that
a change was in contemplation ; and accordingly,
the west end of the old Tolbooth was fitted up for
his execution, which took place on the 20th of
April, 1785.
In 1733 the Grassmarket was the scene of some
remarkable feats, performed by a couple of Italian
mountebanks, a father and his son, A rope being
fixed between the half-moon battery of the Castle, ... EXECUTIONS IN THE GUSSMARKET. 231 Market, from the corner of Marlin’s Wynd (where Blair Street is ...

Vol. 4  p. 231 (Rel. 0.31)

encrusted with legends, dates, and coats of arms,
for ages formed one of the most important features
of the Burghmuir.
This was the mansion of Wrychtis-housis, belonging
to an old baronial family named Napier,
WRIGHT’S HOUSES AND THE BARCLAY CHURCH, FROM BRUNTSFIELD LINKS.
alliances by which the family succession of the
Napiers of the Wrychtis-housis had been continued
from early times.”
By the Chamberlain Rolls, William Napier of
the Wrychtis-housis was Constable of the Castle of
to which additions had been made as generations
succeeded each other, but the original part or
nucleus of which was a simple old Scottish tower
of considerable height. “ The general effect of this
antique pile,” says Wilson, “ was greatly enhanced
on approaching it, by the numerous heraldic
devices and inscriptions which adorned every
window, doorway, and ornamental pinnacle, the
whole wall being crowded with armorial bearings,
designed to perpetuate the memory of the noble
Edinburgh in 1390, in succession to John, Earl of
Carrick (eldest son of King Robert 11.); and it is
most probable that he was the same William
Napier who held that office in 1402, and who,
in the first years of the fifteenth century, with the
aid of Archibald, Earl of Douglas, and the hapless
Duke of Rothesay, maintained that important
fortress against Henry IV. and all the might of
England.
To the gallant resistance made on this occasioo, ... with legends, dates, and coats of arms, for ages formed one of the most important features of the ...

Vol. 5  p. 32 (Rel. 0.31)

castle Street.] NUMBER THIRTY-NINE CASTLE STREET. 163
lived for a time James Grant of Corrimony,
advocate, who had his town house in Mylne’s
Court, Lawnmarket, in 1783. This gentleman, the
representative of an old Inverness-shire family,
was born in 1743, in the house of Commony in
Urquhart, his mother being Jean Ogilvie, of the
family of Findlater. His father, Alexander Grant,
was induced by Lord Lovat to join Prince Charles,
and taking part in the battle of Culloden, was
wouiided in the thigh. The cave at Corrimony in
which he hid after the battle, is still pointed out to
tourists. His son was called to the bar in 1767,
and at the time of his death, in 1835, he was the
oldest member of the Faculty of Advocates. Being
early distinguished for his liberal principles, he
numbered among his friends the Hon. Henry
Erskine, Sir James Macintosh, Francis Jeffrey, and
many others eminent for position or attainments;
In 1785 he published his ‘‘ Essays on the Origin of
Society,” Src j in 1813, “Thoughts on the Origin
and Descent of the Gael,” &c: works which, illustrated
as they are by researches into ancient Greek,
Latin, and Celtic literature, show him to have been
a man of erudition, and are valuable contributions
to the early history of the Celtic races.
The next thoroughfare is Castle Street, so called
from its proximity to the fortress. As the houses
spread westward they gradually improved in external
finish and internal decoration. By the French
Revolutionary war, according to the author of
“Old Houses in Edinburgh,” writing in 1824, an
immense accession of inhabitants of a better class
were thrown into.the growing city, All the earlier
buildings of the new town were rubble-work, nnd
so simple were the ideas of the people at that
time, “ that main doors (now so important) were
not at all thought of, and many of the houses in
Princes Street had only common stairs entering
from the Mews Lane behind. But within the last
twenty years a very different taste has arisen, and
the dignity of a front door has become almost
indispensable. The later buildings are, with few
exceptions, of the finest ashlar-work, erected on a
scale of magnificence said to be unequalled ; yet,
it cannot be denied that here and there common
stairs-a nuisance that seems to cling to the very
nature of Edinburgh-have crept in. However,
even that objection has in most cases been got
over by an ingenious contrivance, which renders
them accessible only to the occupants of the various
flats,” it., the crank communicating from eabh,
with the general entrance-door below-a feature
altogether peculiar to Edinburgh and puzzling to
all strangers.
No. I Castle Street, now an hotel, was in 1811
he house of the first Lord Meadowbank, already
.ererred to, who died in 1816. At the same time
:he adjoining front door was occupied by the Hon.
Miss Napier (daughter of Francis; seventh Lord
Napier), who died unmarried in 18zc~. No. 16
,vas the house of Skene of Rubislaw, the bosom
iiend of Sir Walter Scott, and the last survivor of
$e six particdar friends to whom he dedicated
:he respective cantos of “ Marmion.” He possessed
the Bible used by Charles I. on the scaffold, and
which is described by Mr. Roach Smith in his
“ Collectanea Antiqua.” Latterly Mr. Skene took
up his residence at Oxford. pis house is now
legal offices.
About 1810 Lady Pringle of Stitchel occupied
No. 20, at the corner of Rose Street. She was the
daughter of Norman Macleod of Macleod, and
widow of Sir James Pringle, Bar!., a lieutenantcolonel
in the army, who died in 1809. At the
opposite corner lived Mrs. Fraser of Strichen; and
No. 27, now all sub-divided, was the residence of
Robert Reed, architect to the king. No. 37, in
1830, was the house of Sir Duncan Cameron, Bart.,
of Fassifem, brother of the gallant Colonel Cameron
who fell at Quatre Bras, and won a baronetcy for
his family. And now we come to the most important
house in New Edinburgh, No. 39, on the east side
of the northern half of the street, in which
Sir Walter Scott resided for twenty-six years prior
to 1826, and in which the most brilliant of his
works were written and he spent his happiest years,
“from the prime of life to its decline.” He considered
himself, and was considered by those about
him, as amassing a large fortune ; the annual profits
of his novels alone had not been less than A;IO,OOO
for several years. His den, or study, there is thus
described by Lockhart :-“ It had a single Venetian
window, opening on a patch of turf not much
Larger than itself, and the aspect of the place was
sombrous. . . . A dozen volumes or so, needful
for immediate purposes of reference, were placed
close by him on a small movable form. All the
rest were in their proper niches, and wherever a
volume had been lent its room was occupied by a
wooden block of the same size, having a card with
the name of the borrower and date of the lending
tacked on its front . . . The only table wasa
massive piece of furniture which he had constructed
on the model of one at Rokeby, with a desk and all
its appurtenances on either side, that an arnanuensis
might work opposite to him when he chose, with
small tiers of drawers reaching all round to the
floor. The top displayed a goodly array of session
papers, and on the desk below were, besides the
MS. at which he was working, proof-sheets and so ... Street.] NUMBER THIRTY-NINE CASTLE STREET. 163 lived for a time James Grant of Corrimony, advocate, who ...

Vol. 3  p. 163 (Rel. 0.31)

Bristo Street.] ALISON RUTHERFORD. 329
and conversed on various topics, we took leave
of the venerable lady, highly gratified by the interview.
To see and talk with one whose name is so
indissolubly associated with the fame of Bums,
and whose talents and virtues were so much
fare, where, in the days of her widowhood, as Mrs
Cockburn of Ormiston, resided Alison Rutherford
of Fahielee, Roxburghshire, authoress of the
modem version of the ‘‘ Flowers of the Forest ” and
other Scottish songs-in her youth a “forest flower
esteemed by the bard-who has now (in 1837)
been sleeping the sleep of death for upwards of
forty years-may well give rise to feelings of no
ordinary description. In youth Clarinda must
have been about the middle size. Bums, she
said, if living, would have been about her own age,
probably a few months older.”
Off Bristo Street there branches westward
Crichton Street, SO named from an architect of the
time, a gloomy, black, and old-fashioned thoroughof
rare beauty.” She removed hither from Blair‘s
Close in the Castle-hill, and her house was the
scene of many happy and brilliant reunions Even
in age her brown hair never grew grey, and she
wore it combed over a toupee, with a lace band tied
under her chin, and her sleeves puffed out in the
fashion of Mary‘s time. “She maintained,” says
Scott, “that rank in the society of Edinburgh
which French women of talent usually do in that of
Paris ; and in her little parlour used to assemble a ... Street.] ALISON RUTHERFORD. 329 and conversed on various topics, we took leave of the venerable lady, ...

Vol. 4  p. 329 (Rel. 0.31)

High Street.] THE QUACK DOCTOR’S ACROBATS. 201
an audience. Then he began to vend his drugs
at eightpence per packet. Nicoll admits that they
were both good and real, and describes the antics
of the assistants.
Upon a great rope, fixed from side to side of
the street, a man descended upon his breast with
~ ~ ~~~~
danced seven-score times, without intermission,
lifting himself and vaulting s k quarter high above
his own head and lighting directly upon the tow
(rope) as punctually as if he had been dancing on
the plain stones.”
Four years after a different scene was witnessed
THE NETHER BOW PORT, FROM THE CANONGATE. ( F m an Etcking6y Jams SKrrrc of RdGhw.)
his arms “stretched out like the wings of a fowl,
to the admiration of many.” Nicoll adds that the
country chirurgeons and apothecaries, finding his
drugs both cheap and good, came to Edinburgh
from all parts of the realm, and bought them for
the purpose of retailing them at a profit. The
antics and rope-dancing were continued for many
days with an agility and nimbleness “admirable
to the beholders; one of the dancers having
28
in the High Street, when, in 1666, after the battle
of the Pentland Hills-a victory celebrated by
the discharge of nearly as many guns from the
Castle as there were prisoners-the captives were
marched to the Tolbooth. They. were eighty
in number; and these poor Covenanters were
conveyed manacled in triumph by the victor,
with trumpets sounding, kettle-drums beating, and
banners displayed. And Crookshank records in ... Street.] THE QUACK DOCTOR’S ACROBATS. 201 an audience. Then he began to vend his drugs at eightpence per ...

Vol. 2  p. 201 (Rel. 0.3)

Parliament House.] TREATY OF UNION. 163
to regain the throne; for the proposed union
with England had inflamed to a perilous degree
the passions and the patriotism of the nation.
In August the equivalent money sent to Scotland
as a blind to the people for their full participation
in the taxes and old national debt of England, was
pompously brought to Edinburgh m twelve great
waggons, and conveyed to the Castle, escorted by
a regiment of Scottish cavalry, as Defoe tells us,
amid the railing, the reproaches, and the deep
curses of the people, who then thought of nothing
but war, and viewed the so-called equivalent as
the price of their Scottish fame, liberty, and
honour.
In their anathemas, we are told that they spared
not the very horses which drew the waggons, and on
the return of the latter from the fortress their fury
could no longer be restrained, and, unopposed by
the sympathising troops, they dashed the vehicles
to pieces, and assailed the drivers with volleys of
stones, by which many of them were severely
injured.
“It was soon discovered, after all,” says Dr.
Chambers, “ that only LIOO,OOO of the money was
specie, the rest being iu Exchequer bills, which the
Bank of England had ignorantly supposed to be
welcome in all parts of Her Majesty’s dominions.
This gave rise to new clamours. It was said the
English had tricked them by sending paper instead
of money. Bills, payable 400 miles of, and which
if lost or burned would be irrecoverable, were a
pretty price for the obligation Scotland had come
under to pay English taxes.’’
In the following year, during the sitting of the
Union Parliament, a terrible tumult arose in the
west, led by two men named Montgomery and
Finlay. The latter had been a sergeant in the
Royal Scots, and this enthusiastic veteran burned
the articles of Union at the Cross of Glasgow, and
with the little sum he had received on his discharge,
enlisted men to march to Edinburgh, avowing his
intention of dispersing the Union Parliament,
sacking the House, and storming the Castle. I n
the latter the troops were on the alert, and the
guns and beacons were in readiness. The mob
readily enough took the veteran’s money, but
melted away on the march ; thus, he was captured
and brought in a prisoner to the Castle, escorted by
250 dragoons, and the Parliament continued its
sitting without much interruption.
The Articles of Union were framed by thirty
commissioners acting for England and thirty acting
for Scotland ; and though the troops of both COUTI’
tries were then fighting side by side on the Continent,
such were their mutual relations on each side
of the Tweed, that, as Macaulay says, they could
not possibly have continued for one year more ‘‘ on
the terms on which they had been during the
preceding century, and that there must have been
between them either absolute union or deadly
enmity; and their enmity would bring frightful
calamities, not on themselves alone, but on all the
civilised world Their union would be the best
security for the prosperity of both, for the internal
tranquillity of the island, for the just balance of
power among European states, and for the immunities
of all Protestant countries.”
As the Union debates went on, in vain did the
eloquent Belhaven, on his knees and in tears,
beseech the House to save Scotland from extinction
and degradation; in vain did the nervous
Fletcher, the astute and wary Lockhart, plead for
the fame of their forefathers, and denounce the
measure which was to close the legislative hall
for ever. “ Many a patriotic heart,” says Wilson,
“ throbbed amid the dense crowd that daily assembled
in the Parliament Close, to watch the decision
of the Scottish Estates oa the detestable scheme
of a union with England. Again and again its fatetrembled
in the balance, but happily for Scotland,
English bribes outweighed the mistaken qeal ot
Scottish patriotism and Jacobitism, united against
the measure.”
On the 25th of March, 1707, the treaty or
union was ratified by the Estates, and on the zznd
of April the ancient Parliament of Scotland adjourned,
to assemble no more. On that occasion
the Chancellor Seafield made use of a brutal jest,
for which, says Sir Walter Scott, his countrymen
should have destroyed him on the spot.
It is, of course, a matter of common history,
that the legislative union between Scotland and
England was carried by the grossest bribery and
corruption; but the sum actually paid to members
who sat in that last Parliament are not perhaps
so well known, and may be curious to the
reader.
During some financial investigations which were
in progress in 1711 Lockhart discovered and
made public that the sum of Lzo,540 17s. 7d. had
been secretly distributed by Lord Godolphin, the
Treasurer of England, among the baser members ot
the Scottish Parliament, for the purpose of inducing
them to vote for the extinction of thek country,
and in his Memoirs of Scotland from the Accession
of Queen Anne,” he gives us the following list of
the receivers, with the actual sum which was paid
to each, and this list was confirmed on oath hy
David Earl of Glasgow, the Treasurer Deputy of
Scotland .
I
. ... House.] TREATY OF UNION. 163 to regain the throne; for the proposed union with England had inflamed to ...

Vol. 1  p. 163 (Rel. 0.3)

230 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Grassmarket:
houses which were inhabited by this gang were
well chosen for the purpose to which they were
put. Burke’s dwelling, in which he has only
resided since June last, is at the end of a long
passage, and separated from every other house
except one. After going through the close from
the street there is a descent by a stair to the
passage, at the end of which is to be found this
habitation of wickedness. I t consists of one apartment,
an oblong square, at the end of which is a
miserable bed, under which may still be seen some
straw in which his murdered victims were concealed.
The house of Hare is in a more retired
situation. The passage to it is by a dark and
dirty close, in which there’ are no inhabitants,
except in the tlat above. Both houses are on the
ground floor.”
Tanner‘s Clme still exists, but the abodes of
those two wretches-the most cold-blooded criminals
in history-are now numbered, as we have stated,
among the things that were.
At the head of Liberton’s Wynd three reversed
stones indicate where, on this’ and on other occasions,
the last sentence of the law was carried out.
CHAPTER XXX.
THE GRASSMARKET.
The Grassmarket-The Mart of 1477-Margaret Tudor-Noted Executions-“Half Hangit Maggie Dickson”4talian hlountebanks-Grey
Friary Founded by Jam- I.-Henry VI. of England a Fugitive-The Grev Friars Port-New Corn Exchanee-The White Hone Inn
-Camels-The Castle Wvnd-First Gaelic ChatKl therdurrie Close-The Cockpit-Story of Watt and Downie, “The Friends of the
People “-Their Trial aniSentencc-Executbn bf Watt.
THE Grassmarket occupies that part of the
southern valley which lies between the eastern
portion of the Highnggs and the ridge of the Castle
Hill and Street. It is a spacious and stately
rectangle, 230 yards in length, communicating at
its south-east corner with the ancient Candlemaker
Row and southern portion of the old town, and at
its north-east angle with the acclivitous, winding,
narrow, and more ancient alley, the West Bow, or
that fragment of it which now NOS into Victoria
Street, and the steps near the (now demolished)
Land of Weir the wizard.
The Grassmarket is darkly overhung on the
north by the precipitous side of the Castle Esplanade,
the new west approach, and the towering
masses of Johnstone Terrace and the General
Assembly Hall, but on the south is the gentler
slope, crowned by the turrets of Heriot’s Hospital
and the heavy mass of the Greyfriars churches.
The western end of this rectangle was long
closed up and encroached upon by the Corn
Market, an unsightly arcaded edifice, 80 feet long
by 45 broad, with a central belfry and clock, now
swept away, and its eastern end, where the old
Corn Market is shown in Edgar’s map, is deeply
associated with much that is sad, terrible, and
deplorable in Scottish history, as the scene of the
fervid testimony and dying supplications of many
a martyr to U the broken covenant,” in defence of
that Church, every stone of which may be said to
have been cemented by the blood of the people.
Now the Grassmarket is the chief rendezvous
of carriers and farmers, and persons of various
classes connected with the county horse and cattle
markets, and presents a remarkably airy, busy, and
imposing appearance, with its infinite variety of
architecture, crow-stepped gables, great chimneys,
turnpike stairs, old signboards, and projections of
many kinds.
The assignment of this locality as the site ot a
weekly market dates from the year 1477, when
King James 111. by his charter for the holding of
markets, ordained- that wood and timber be sold
“fra Dalrimpill yarde to the Grey Friars and
westerwart; alswa all old graith and geir to be
vsit and soldin the Friday market before the Greyfriars
lyke as is usit in uthir cuntries.”
In 1503, on the mamage of Margaret of England
to James IV., the royal party were met at the
western entrance to the city by the whole of the
Greyfriars-whose monastery was on the south side
of the Grassmarket-bearing in procession their
most valued relics, which were presented to the
royal pair to kiss ; and thereafter they were stayed
at an embattled barrier, erected for the occasion,
at the windows of which appeared angels singing
songs of welcome to the English bride, while one
presented her with the keys of Edinburgh.
In 1543 we first hear of this part of the city
having been causewayed, or paved, when the
Provost and Bailies employed Moreis Crawfurd to
mend “the calsay,” at 26s. 8d. per rood from the
Upper Bow to the West Port
In 1560 the magistrates removed the Corn ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Grassmarket: houses which were inhabited by this gang were well chosen for the ...

Vol. 4  p. 230 (Rel. 0.3)

Riccarton.1 SIR THOMAS CFLAIG. 321
Riccarton, with those of Warriston, in the barony
of Currie, were given by royal charter to Marion
of Wardlaw, and Andrew her son, and have had
many proprietors since then.
In the Privy Council Register we find that in
1579 the Lairds of Brighouse and Haltoun became
referred in the account of his town residence in
Wamston’s Close. He was born at Edinburgh
about 1538, and in 1552 was entered as a student
at St. Leonard’s College in the University of St.
Andrews, which he quitted three years subsequently,
after receiving his degree of Bachelor of Arts
COL\”TO”.
bound in caution, that the former shall pay “to
Harie Drummond of Riccartoun, LIOO on Martinmas
next, the 11th November, in the Tolbooth of
Edinburgh, for behoof of William Sandeland and
Thomas Hart,” whom he had hurt and mutilated,
‘I or else shall re-enter himself as a prisoner in the
said Tolbooth, on the said day.”
During the middle of the sixteenth century
Riccarton became the property of the famous
feudal lawyer, Sir Thomas Craig, to whom we have
137
He next studied at the University of Pans, and
became deeply versed in Civil and Canon laws.
Returning to Scotland about 1561, he was called
to the bar three years afterwards, and in 1564 was
made Justice-Depute.
In 1566, when Prince James was born in Edinburgh
Castle, he wrote a Latin hexameter poem
in honour of the event, entitled GenethZiacon Jacobi
Prinn$is Soforum, which, with another poem on his
departure, when king, for England, is inserted in ... SIR THOMAS CFLAIG. 321 Riccarton, with those of Warriston, in the barony of Currie, were given by ...

Vol. 6  p. 321 (Rel. 0.3)

West Church.] MR. NEIL MWICAR. I33 -
those of other sections of the city, took courage, and
sought to retrieve their past ill-conduct by noisily .
preparing to raise forces to defend themselves in
case of a second visit from the Highlanders.
the General Assembly met in the church, and
passed an Act, which, however necessary, perhaps,
in those harassing times, concerning ‘‘ the sine and
guilte of the king and his house,” caused much
suffering to the Covenanters after the Restoration.
It was known by the name of the West Kirk Act,
and was approved by Parliament the same day.
Subsequently, during his siege of the castle
Cromwell made the church a barrack; hence its
roof and windows were destroyed by the guns of
the fortress, and soon little was left of it but the
bare walls, which were repaired, and opened for
service in 1655.
For some years subsequent the sole troubles
of the incumbents were breaches
of “the Sabbath,” such as when
William Gillespie, in 1659, was
“fund carrying watter, and his
wyfe knoking beir,” for which
they had to make public repentance,
or filling people for
“taking snuff in tyme of sermon,”
contrary to the Act of
18th June, 1640; till 1665,
when the ‘‘ great mutiny” in
the parish occurred, and the
minister, William Gordon, for
“ keeping of festivals,” was
railed at by the people, who
closed the doors against him,
for which a man and a woman,
according to Wodrow, were
scourged through Edinburgh.
At the Revolution, those
of ground to the west was added to it (including
the garden,with trees, shown in Gordon’s Map), from
the old boundary to the present west gate at the
Lothian Road. About the same time several
heritors requested permission to inter their dead
in the little or Wester-kirk, which had been a
species of ruin since the invasion of Cromwell.
In 1745, after the victory of the Highlanders at
Prestonpans, a message was sent to the ministers
of the city, in the name cf “Charles, Prince Regent,”
desiring them to preach next day, Sunday,
as usual; but many, alarmed by the defeat of Cope,
sought refuge in the country, and no public worship
was performed within the city, save by a
ST. CUTHBERT’S CHURCH.
(From Cmdm of Potkicmay’s Mu@.)
ministers who had been ejected in 1661, and were
yet alive, returned to their charges. Among them
was Mr. David Williamson, who, in 1689, was
settled in St. Cuthbert’s manse ; but not quietly,
for the castle, defended by the Duke of Gordon,
was undergoing its last disastrous siege by the
troops oC William, and the church suffered so much
damage from shot and shell, that for many months
after the surrender in June, the people were unable
to use it, and the repairs amounted to LI,~OO.
If tradition has not wronged him, Mr. Williamson
is the well-known (‘ Dainty Davie” of Scottish
song, who had six wives ere the seventh, Jean.
Straiton, survived him. He died in August, 1706,
and was buried in the churchyard, where the
vicinity of the grave is alone indicated by the
letters D. W. cut on the front of the tomb in which
he lies.
The ancient cemetery on the knoll having been
found too small for the increasing population and
consequent number of interments, in 1701 a piece
clergyman named Hog a t t h e
Tron.
It was otherwise, however,
at St. Cuthbert’s, the incumbent
of which was then the Rev.
Neil McVicar, yho preached
to a crowded congregation,
many of whom were armed
Highlanders, before whom he
prayed for George 11. and also
for Charles Edward in a fashion
of his own, recorded thus by
Ray, in his history of the time,
and others :-
‘(Bless the king! Thou
knowest what king I mean.
May the crown sit long on his
head. As for that young man
who has come among us to
seek an earthly crown, we ... Church.] MR. NEIL MWICAR. I33 - those of other sections of the city, took courage, and sought to retrieve ...

Vol. 3  p. 133 (Rel. 0.3)

OLD AND NEW EDINEURGH. LSouth Bridge. 376
In 1837 he succeeded Professor Macvey Napier
as Librarian to the Signet Library ; and when the
new and noble library of the University was opened
he volunteered to arrange it, which he did with
all the ardour of a bibliomaniac. Hewas made
LL.D. of his native university in 1864, and is
believed to have edited and annotated fully 250
rare works on Scottish history and antiquities.
True to its old tradition, No. 49 is still a booksellefs
shop, held by the old firm of Ogle and
Murray.
In No. 98 of the Bridge Street are the Assay
Office and Goldsmith’s Hall, The former is open
on alternate days, when articles of gold and silver
that require to be guaranteed by the stamp of
genuineness, are sent in and assayed. The assay
master scrapes a small quantity of metal off each
article, and submits it to a test in order to ascertain
the quality. The duty charged here on each ounce
of gold plate is 17s. 6d., and on silver plate IS. 6d
One of the earliest incorporated trades of Edinburgh
was that of the hammermen, under which
were included the goldsmiths, who, in 1586, were
formed into a separate company. By the articles
of it, apprentices must serve for a term of seven
years, and masters are obliged to serve a regular
apprenticeship of three years or more to make
them more perfect in their trade. They were,
moreover, once bound to give the deacon of the
craft sufficient proof of their knowledge of metals,
and of their skill in the working thereof. By a
charter of James VI., all persons not of the corporation
are prohibited from exercising the trade of
a goldsmith within the liberties of Edinburgh.
King James VII. incorporated the company by
a charter, with additional powers for the regulation
of its trade. Those were granted, so it runs, “ because
the art and science of goldsmiths is exercised
in the city of Edinburgh, to which our subjects
frequently resort, because it is the seat of our
supreme Parliament, and of the other supreme
courts, and there are few goldsmiths in other
cities.”
In virtue of the powers conferred upon it, the
company, from the date of its formation, tested
and stamped all the plate and jewellery made in
Scotland. The first stamp adopted was the tipletowered
castle, or city arms. “In 1681,” says
Bremner, in his ‘‘ Industries of Scotland,” “a letter
representing the date was stamped on as well as
the castle. The letter A indicates that the article
bearing it was made in the year between the 29th
of September, 1681, and the same day in 1682 ;
the other letters of the alphabet, omitting j and
w, representing the succeeding twenty-three years.
Each piece bore, in addition to the castle and date
letter, the assay-master’s initials. Seven alphabets
of a different type have been exhausted in recording
the dates ; and the letter of the eighth alphabet,
for 1869, is an Egyptian capital M. In 1759 the
standard mark of a thistle was substituted for the
assay-master’s initials, and is still continued. In
1784 a ‘duty-mark’ was added, the form being
the head of the sovereign. The silver mace of.
the city of Edinburgh is dated 1617 ; the High
Church plate, 1643.”
The making of spoons and forks was at one
time an extensive branch of the silversmith trade
in Edinburgh ; but the profits were so small that
it has now passed almost entirely into the hands
of English manufacturers.
The erection of this bridge led to the formation of
Xunter’s Square and Hair Street, much about the
same time and in immediate conjunction with i t
The square and street (where the King’s pnntingoffice
was placed) were both named from Sir James
Hunter Blair, who was Provost of the city when
the bridge was commenced, but whose death at
Harrogate, in 1789, did not permit him to see
the fine1 completion of it.
Number 4 in this small square, the north side
of which is entirely formed by the Tron Church,
contains the old hall of the Merchant Company of
Edinburgh, which was formed in 1681.
But long previous to that year the merchants OF
the city formed themselves into a corporation,
called the guildry, from which, for many ages, the
magistrates were exclusively chosen ; and, by an
Act of Parliament passed in the reign of James
III., each of the incorporated trades in Edinburgh
was empowered to choose one of their number to
vote in the election of those who were to govern
the city, and this guildry was the parent of the
Merchant Company. “It was amidst some of the
most distressing things in our national histovhangings
of the poor ‘hill folk’ in the Grassmarket,
trying of the patriot Argyle for taking
the test-oath with an explanation, and so forththat
this company came into being. Its nativity
was further heralded by sundry other things of
a troublous kind affecting merchandise and its
practitioners.’’
The merchants of Edinburgh, according to Amot,
were erected into a bodp-corporate by royal charter,
dated 19th October, 1681, under the name of The
Company of Merchants of fhe Cig of Edinburgh.
By this charter they were empowered to choose a
Preses, who is called “ The Master,” with twelve
assistants, a treasurer, clerk, and officer. The
company were further empowered to purchase ... AND NEW EDINEURGH. LSouth Bridge. 376 In 1837 he succeeded Professor Macvey Napier as Librarian to the Signet ...

Vol. 2  p. 377 (Rel. 0.3)

Leith.] WITCHCRAFT IN LEITH; I81
-
dated 15th March, 1603, among many enumerations,
all in favour of Edinburgh, power is again
given the magistrates to enlarge and extend the
port towards the sea, with bulwarks on both sides
of theaiver; and to build, strengthen, and fortify the
Andrew Sadler, through the agency, in the former
case, of a little bag of black plaiding, wherein she
put some grains of wheat, worsted threads of divers
colours, hair, and nails of “ mennis fingeris ;” and
I in the latter case by a shirt dipped in a certain
GRANT’S SQUARE, 1851.~ (A&r a Dmwiw by W. Chanring.)
same in a substantial and durable manner for the
safety of shipping.
As the sixteenth century was drawing to its close,
the criminal records give many instances of the
dark and gross superstition that had spread over
the land even after the days of Knox. Thus, in
1597, Janet Stewart, in the Canongate, and Christian
Livingstone, in Leith, were accused of witchcraft
and casting spells upon Thomas Guthry and
well ; for which alleged crimes they were sentenced
to die on the Castle Hill, “ thair bodies to be
Grant’s Square has entirely disappeared. “It was,“ writes Dr.
Robtrt Paterson, “the square in which existed the old Parliament
Houu, once occupied in Mary’s time. The m m in which the Par-
L i e n t met must have been a spacious one, as when I remember it it
was divided into numerous smaller rooms for poor tenants, but yet tkc
carved oak panelling and the richly-decorated mof told of former
magnificence. All has, however, now been cleared away, and replaced
by a granary.” ... WITCHCRAFT IN LEITH; I81 - dated 15th March, 1603, among many enumerations, all in favour of Edinburgh, ...

Vol. 5  p. 181 (Rel. 0.29)

forth, all neatly done up with red tape. . . .
His own writing apparatus was a very handsome
old box, richly carved, lined with crimson velvet,
and containing ink-bottles, taper-stand, &c., in
silver, The room had no space for pictures, except
one, an original portrait of Claverhouse, which
SIR WALTER SCOTT’S HOUSE, CASTLE STREET.
the upper leaves before opening it. I think I have
mentioned all the furniture of the room, except a
sort of ladder, low, broad, and well carpeted, and
strongly guarded with oaken rails, by which he
helped himself to books from his higher shelves.
On the top step of this convenience, Hinse, a
hung over the chimney-piece, with a Highland
target on either side, and broadswords and dirks
(each having its own story) disposed star-fashion
round them. A few green tin boxes, such as
solicitors keep their deeds in, wee piled over each
other on one side of the window, and on the top of
these lay a fox’s tail, mounted on an antique silver
handle, wherewith, as often as he had occasion to
take down a book, he gently brushed the dust off
venerable tom-cat, fat and sleek, and no longer
very locomotive, usually lay, watching the proceedings
of his master and Maida with an au cif
dignified equanimity.”
Scott’s professional practice at the bar was never
anything to speak of; but in 1812 his salary and
fees as a Principal Clerk of Session were commuted
into a fixed salary of ;Gr,6oo annually, an income
he enjoyed for upwards of twenty-five years. His ... all neatly done up with red tape. . . . His own writing apparatus was a very handsome old box, richly ...

Vol. 3  p. 164 (Rel. 0.29)

318 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [The West Bow.
Jambites pointing t a it with mingled howls and
jeers, as a proof of the enslavement of Scotland.’‘
Outside the archway of the Bow Port, and on
the west side of the street, was the house of Archibald
Stewart, Lord Provost of Edinburgh in the
ever memorable year 1745. Its upper windows
overlooked the Grassmarket, and it was as full of
secret stairs, trap-doors, little wainscoted closets,
and concealed recesses, as any haunted mansion
in a nursery tale. In one apartment there stood
a cabinet, or what appeared to be such, but which
in reality was the entrance to a trap-stair. It is
unknown whether Provost Stewart-whose Jacobite
proclivities are well known, as they brought him
before a court on charges of treason-contrived
this means of retreat, or whether (which is more
probable) it had been a portion of the original
design of the house ; but local tradition avers that
he turned it to important use on one occasion. , It is said that during the occupation of Edinburgh
by the Highland army in 1745 he gave a
secret entertainment to Prince Charles and some
of the chiefs of his army ; and it was not conducted
so secretly but that tidings of it reached the officer
commanding in the adjacent Castle, which was then
garrisoned chiefly by the 47th or Lascelles Regiment.
A party of the latter was sent to seize the
Prince if possible, and, to do so, came down the
Bow from the street of the Castle Hill. Fortunately,
their own appearance created an alarm, and before
they gained admission the guests of the Provost
had all disappeared by the’secret stair.
Tradition has never varied in the relation of
this story, but the real foundation of it is difficult
of discovery, This house stood at the foot of
Donaldson’s Close, and Archibald Stewart was th(!
third chief magistrate of Edinburgh who had inhabited
it.
In subsequent years it came into possession of
Alexander. Donaldson, the well-known bookseller,
.whose litigation with the trade in London made
much noise at one time, as he was in the habit of
deliberately reprinting the most modem English
works in Edinburgh, where, before his epoch, both
printing and publishing were at the lowest ebb.
Refemng to the state of this branch of industry at
the time he wrote (1779), Arnot says:--“Till
within these forty years, the printing of newspapers
and of school-books, of the fanatic effusions of
Presbyterian clergymen, and the law-papers of the
Court of Session, joined to the patent Bible printing,
gave a scanty employment to four printinghouses.
Such, however, has been the increase of
this trade by the reprinting of English books, that
there are now no fewer than twenty-seven printingoffices
in Edinburgh.” In our own time there are
about eighty.
From his printing-house in the Castle Hill,
Alexander Donaldson issued the first number of
his once famous newspaper, The Edinburgh Advertiser,
on the 3rd of January, 1764. It was a large
quarto, and was also issued and sold from his shop,
‘I near Norfolk Street in the Strand, London ;’, and,
his first number contains the following curious.
advertisement, among others :-
“Any young woman not under IS, nor much
over 30 years of age, that is tolerably handsome,
and would incline to give her hand to a Black
Prince, upon directing a letter to F. Y., care of the
Publisher, will be informed particularly as to this.
matrimonial scheme, which they may be assured
is a good one in every respect, the colour of the
husband only excepted. If desired, secresy may
be depended on.”
For a long course of years this journal, prominent
as a Conservative organ, proved a most lucrative
speculation; and as all his other undertakings
prospered, he left, together with his old house in
the Bow, a rich inheritance to his son, the late Mr.
James Donaldson, who eventually realised a large
fortune, the mass of which (about ;t;240,000) at
his death, in 1840, he bequeathed to found the
magnificent hospital which bears his name at the
west end of the city.
Six years before his death the old house in the
Bow, where he and his father had resided for so
many years, and wherein they had entertained most
of the literati of their time, was burned to the
ground.
Lower down than the house of the Donaldsons
was an ancient edifice, with a timber front of picturesque
aspect, in former times the town mansion
of the Napiers of Wrightshouse-a family which
passed away about the close of the 17th century,
but was of some importance in its time.
Alexander Napier of Wrightshouse appears as
one of an inquest in 1488. His coat armorial
was a bend, charged with a crescent between two
mullets. He married Margaret Napier of Merchiston,
whose father, Sir Alexander, was slain at
Flodden, and whose brother (his heir) was slain at.
Pinkie. In 1581, among the names of the Commissioners
appointed by James VI., “anent the
cuinze,” that of William Napier of the Wrightshouse
appears; and in 1590 his sister Barbara.
Napier was accused of witchcraft on the 8th of Mayr
and of being present at the great meeting of Scottish
witches held by the devil in North Berwick.
The wife of Archibald Douglas (brother of the
Laird of Carshoggil), her trial was one of great ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [The West Bow. Jambites pointing t a it with mingled howls and jeers, as a proof of ...

Vol. 2  p. 318 (Rel. 0.29)

summons (said Sir Walter Scott, in the Quarter@
Revkw,) instead of rousing the hearts of the
volunteers, like the sound of a trumpet, rather
reminded them of a passing knell. Most pitiful
was the bearing of the volunteers, according to Dr.
Carlyle of Inveresk, who was one of them on this
occasion. “ The ladies in the windows treated us
very variously; many with lamentation, and even
with tears, and some with scorn and derision. In
one house on the south side of the street there was
a row of windows
full of ladies, who
appeared to enjoy
our march to danger
with much mirth and
levity.” He adds
that these civic warriors
were about to
fire on these ladies;
but they pulled their
windows down.
Summoned from
Leith, the 14th Dragoons
came spurring
up the street, huzzaing
and clashing their
swords in silly bravado
; the volunteers
began their march,
with wives and children
clinging to them,
imploring them not
to risk their lives
against wild Highland
savages ; but resolutely
enough their
The preposterous idea of meeting the Highlanders
in the open field was abandoned; the
remains of the force were led to the College yards
and dismissed for the evening ; but the City Guard,
the men of the Edinburgh Regiment, and the
cavalry, went out to reconnoitre as far as Corstorphine.
Seeing nothing of the enemy, the famous
~ and pious Colonel Gardiner of the 13th Dragoons,
who commanded the whole, halted in the fields
between Edinburgh and Leith, leaving a small party
OLD HOUSES, WEST now.
(From a MeawredDrazuing by T. Hamilton, pirUiskd in 1830.)
commander ex-Provost Drummond led the way,
till the most ludicrous cowardice was exhibited by
all. ‘‘ In descending the famous West Bow, they
disappeared by scores under doorways or down
wynds, till, when their commander halted at the
West Port and looked behind him, he found, to his
surprise and mortification, that nearly the whole of
his valiant followers had disappeared, and that
only a few of his personal friends remained. The
author of a contemporary pamphlet-alleged to be
David Hume-afterwards compared their march to
the course of the Rhine, which at one place is a
majestic river, rolling its waves through fertile
fields, but being continually drawn off by little
canals, dwindles into a small streamlet, and is
almost lost in the sands before reaching the ocean.*
It was said that the volunteers rushed about in the
sorest tribulation, bribing with sixpences every
soldier they met to take their arms to the Castle.
to watch the west
road, while fresh
volunteers came into
the city from Musselburgh
and Dalkeith.
That night Brigadier
Fowkes arrived from
London to assume the
command, and he at
once led the cavalry
towards Coltbridge,
which spans the Leith,
about two miles distant
from the then
city.
Here a few Highland
gentlemen, forming
the Prince’s van,
fired their pistols, on
which adreadful panic
at once seized the
13th and 14th Dragoons,
who went
“threes about,” and,
laden with all the property
they could
‘‘ loot ” from Corstorphine and Bell’s Mills, were
seen from the Castle and the city, flying in wild
disorder eastward by the Lang Gate. At Leith
they halted for a few minutes till a cry was raised, in
mockery, that the Highlanders were at hand, when
again they resumed their flight as far as Preston
Pans. Then a cry from one of their comrades, who
fell into a disused coalpit, filled these cravens with
such ungovernable terror, that they fled to North
Berwick. The road by which they galloped was
strewn, according to Dr. Carlyle, with their swords,
pistols, carbines, and skull-caps, which the mortified
Colonel Gardiner, who had passed the night at his
own house at Bankton, caused to be gleaned up
and sent in covered carts to Dunbar.
General Guest sent a detachment into the
city to spike the cannon, which in his heart he
had no wish should be used against the Prince,
tG save them for whom the Provost declined all ... (said Sir Walter Scott, in the Quarter@ Revkw,) instead of rousing the hearts of the volunteers, like the ...

Vol. 2  p. 324 (Rel. 0.29)

272 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [High Street
lawyer and judge. Admitted an advocate at the
early age of nineteen, he obtained a full share of
practice, and the rooms of his mansion in Elphinstone
Court were frequently crowded byhis clients;
but having gained a cause in which the celebrated
Lockhart (Lord Covington) was the opposing
counsel, that eminent barrister, in bitter chagrin at
his signal defeat, styled him “a presumptuous
boy.” Young Wedderburn’s reply was so terribly
sarcastic as to draw upon him a severe rebuke from
England, resided here while practising at the
Scottish Bar. He was born in East Lothian, in
1733, where his great-grandfather, Sir Peter Wedderburn
of Gosford, was a man of influence in the
reign of Charles II., and rose to be an eminent
courts for ever, was called to the English bar in
1753, and soon gained fresh fame as counsel for
the great Lord Clive ; and in I 768-9 his eloquence
in the famous Douglas cause won him the notice
of Lord Camden and the friendship of the Earls of
Bute and Mansfield. He sat in the Commons as
member for the Inverary Burghs, and for Bishop’s
Castle, and in 1780 was raised to the British peerage
as Lord Loughborough, in the county of
Leicester. In April, 1783, he united with Lord
one of the judges, on which he threw off his gown,
and declared that never again would he plead in a
place where he was subjected to insult.
A11 unaware of the brilliant future that awaited
him, with great regret he quitted the Scottish
ELPHINSTONE COURT. ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [High Street lawyer and judge. Admitted an advocate at the early age of nineteen, he ...

Vol. 2  p. 272 (Rel. 0.29)

21% OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Nether Bow.
with cannon stone-shot in 1544, ere advancing
;against the Castle. “ They hauled their. cannons
up the High Street by force of men to the ButteI
Tron, and above,” says Calderwood, “ and hazarded
a shot against the fore entrie of the Castle (i.e.,
the port of the Spur). But the wheel and axle 01
.one of the English cannons was broken, and some
of their men slain by shot of ordnance out of the
Castle j so they left that rash enterprise.”
In 1571, during the struggle between Kirkaldy
.and the Regent Morton, this barrier gate played a
prominent part. According to the “Diurnal of
Qccurrents,” upon the nznd of August in that year,
the Regent and the lords who adhered against the
.authority of the Queen, finding that they were
totally excluded from the city, marched several
bands of soldiers from Leith, their head-quarters,
.and concealed them under cloud of night in the
I closes and houses adjoining the Nether Bow Port.
At five on the following morning, when it was
supposed that the night watch would be withdrawn,
six soldiers, disguised as millers, approached the
.gates, leading horses laden with sacks of meal,
which were to be thrown down as they entered, so
.as to preclude the rapid closing of them, and while
they attacked and cut down the warders, with those
weapon? which they wore under their disguise, the
.men in ambush were to rush out to storm the
-town, aided by a reserve, whom the sound of their
trumpets was to summon from Holyrood. “But
the eternal God,” says the quaint old journalist we
quote, “ knowing the cruel1 murther that wold have
beene done and committit vponn innocent poor personis
of the said burgh, wold not thole this interpryse
to tak successe; but evin quhen the said
meill was almaist at the port, and the said men of
war, stationed in clois headis, in readinesse to
enter at the back of the samyne it chanced that
a burgher of the Canongate, named Thomas Barrie,
passed out towards his hcuse in the then separate
burgh, and perceiving soldiers concealed on every
hand, he returned and gave the alarm, on which
the gate was at once barricaded, and the design of
the Regent and his adherents baffled.
This gate having become ruinous, the magis
trates in 1606, three years after James VI. went to
England, built a new one, of which many views are
preserved. It was a handsome building, and quite
enclosed the lower end of the High Street. The
arch, an ellipse, was in the centre, strengthened by
round towers and battlements on the eastern or
external front, and in the southern tower there was
a wicket for.foot passengers. On the inside of the
arch were the arms of the city. The whole building
was crenelated, and consisted of two lofty
storeys, having in the centre a handsome square
tower, terminated by ii pointed spire. It was
adorned by a statue of James VI., which was
thrown down and destroyed by order of Oliver
Cromwell, and had on it a Latin inscription, which
runs thus in English :-
“Watch towers and thundr’ng walls vain fences prove
No guards to monarchs like their people’s love.
Jacobus VL Rex, Anna Regina, 1606.”
This gate has been rendered remarkable in history
by the extra-judicial bill that passed the
House of Lords for razing it to theground, in consequence
of the Porteous mob, For a wonder, the
Scottish members made a stand in the matter, and
as the general Bill, when it came to the Commons,
was shorn of all its objectionable clauses, the
Nether Bow Port escaped.
In June, 1737, when the officials of Edinburgh,
who had been taken to London for examination
concerning the not, were returning, to accord them
a cordial reception the citizens rode out in great
troops to meet them, while for miles eastward the
road was lined by pedestrians. The Lord Provost,
Alexander Wilson, a modest man, eluded the ovation
by taking another route ; but the rest came in
triumph through the city, forming a procession of
imposing length, while bonfires blazed, all the bells
clanged and clashed as if a victory had been won
over England, and the gates of the Nether Bow
Port, which had been unhooked, were re-hung and
closed amid the wildest acclamation.
In 1760 the Common Council of London having
obtained an Act of Parliament to remove their city
gates, the magistrates of Edinburgh followed suit
without any Act, and in 1764 demolished the
Nether Bow Port, then one of the chief ornaments
of the city, and like the unoffending Market Cross,
a peculiarly interesting relic of the past. The
ancient clock of its spire was afterwards placed
in that old Orphan’s Hospital, near Shakespeare
Square, where it remained till the removal of the
latter edifice in 1845, when the North British Railway
was in progress, and it is now in the pediment
between the towers of the beautiful Tuscan edifice
built for the orphans near the Dean cemetery. ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Nether Bow. with cannon stone-shot in 1544, ere advancing ;against the Castle. “ They ...

Vol. 2  p. 218 (Rel. 0.29)

them were captured, among others old McLean,
who made a desperate resistance in the West Port
with a musket and bayonet. Many who rolled
down the rocks to the roadway beneath were
severely injured, and taken by the City Guard. A
sentinel was bound hand and foot and thrown into
Macintosh, of Borlum, in his 80th
captivity of fifteen years, for participation
rising of 1715; and for twelve months,
there were confined in a small, horrid, unhealthy
chamber above the portcullis,
many a year as '' the black hole " of
south) where he confessed the whole plot ; the
corporal was mercilessly flogged ; and Sergeant
Ahslie was hanged over the postern gate. Colonel
Stuart was dismissed ; and Brigadier Grant, whose
regiment was added to the garrison, was appointed
temporary governor.
From this period, with the exception of a species
of blockade in 1745, to be related in its place,
the history of the Castle is as uneventful as that of
the Tower of London, save a visit paid to it in t+
time of George I., by Yussuf Juniati, General and
Governor of Damascus.
Many unfortunate Jacobites have suffered most
protracted periods of imprisonment within its walls.
' with her daughters, the Ladies Mary
who were brought in by an escort of twenty
under a ruffianly quartermaster, who
with every indignity, even to tearing weddingring
from Lady Strathallan's finger, and
daughters of their clothes. During the
these noble ladies were in that noisome
the gate, they were without female attendance,
under the almost hourly surveillance sergeants
of the guard. The husband of
was slain at the head of his men on
Culloden, where the Jacobite clans were
by neither skill nor valour, but the sheer
numbers and starvation. ... were captured, among others old McLean, who made a desperate resistance in the West Port with a musket and ...

Vol. 1  p. 69 (Rel. 0.29)

cantoned with other four in the angles. The tiar, or
bonnet, was of purple velvet; but, in 1685, it got a
.cap of crimson velvet, adorned with four plates of
gold, on each of them a great pearl, and the bonnet
-is trimmed up with ermine. Upon the lowest circle
there are eight small holes, two and two, on the
-four quarters of the crown, which mere for lacing
-or tying thereto diamonds or precious stones.
The crown is g inches in diameter, 27 inches
about, and in height from the under circle to the
top of the cross patee 6; inches.
The sceptre : its stem or stalk, which is of
silver double overgilt, is two feet long, of a hexagon
form, with three buttons or knobs; betwixt the
first button and the second is the handle of a
hexagon form, furling in the middle and plain.
Betwixt the second button and the third are three
sides engraven. From the third button to the
capital the three sides under the statues are plain,
and on the other three are antique engravings. Upon
the top of the stalk is an antique capital of leaves
embossed, the abacus whereof arises round the
prolonged stem, surrounded with three little statues;
between every two statues arises a rullion in the
form of a dolphin ; above the rullions and statues
stands another hexagon button, with oak leaves
under every corner, and down it a crystjl (beryl?)
globe. The whole sceptre is in length 34 inches.”
The statues are those of the Virgin, St. Andrew,
and St. James. The royal initials, J. R. V. are
engraved under them. If James V. had this
sceptre made, the metallic settings of the great
beryl belong to some sceptre long anterior to
his time.
The sword is in length 5 feet ; the handle and
pommel are of silver overgilt, in length 15 inches.
The pommel is round and somewhat flat on the two
sides. The traverse or cross OF the sword, which
is of silver overgilt, is in length 17h inches; its
form is like two dolphins with their heads joining
and their tails ending in acorns; the shell is
hanging down towards the point of the sword,
formed like an escalop flourished, or rather like
a green oak-leaf. On the blade of the sword
are indented with gold these letters-JuLIus 11. P.
The scabbard is of crimson velvet, covered with
silver wrought in philagram-work into branches oj
the oak-tree leaves and acorns.’’ Such are the
Scottish regalia, which, since the destruction 01
those of England by Cromwell, are the only ancien!
regal emblems in Great Britain.
The sword of state is of an earlier date than the
rod of the sceptre, being presented by the rvarlikr
Pope Julius to James IV. with a consecrated hai
in 1507. The keys of St. Peter figure promhentlj
among the filagree work. After the fall of the Castle
of Dunottar, in 1651, the belt of the sword became
an heirloom in the family of Ogilvie of Barras.
The great pearl in the apex of the crown is
alleged to be the same which in 1620 was found
in the burn of Kellie, a tributary of the Ythanz
in Aberdeenshire, and was so large and beautiful
that it was esteemed the best that had at any time
been found in Scotland.” Sir Thomas Menzies,
Provost of Aberdeen, obtaining this precious jewel,
presented it to James VI., who in requital gave
him twelve or fourteen chaldron of victuals about
Dunfermline, and the custom of certain merchant
goods during his life.” *
Before quitting the Castle of Edinburgh, it is impossible
to omit some special reference to Mons
Meg-that mighty bombard which is thirteen feet
long and two feet three and a half inches within the
bore, and which was long deemed by the Scots a
species of palladium, the most ancient cannon in
Europe, except one in Lisbon, and a year older
than those which were made for Mahomet 11.
Not a vestige of proof can be shown for the popular
error that this gun was forged at Mons, while unvarying
tradition, supported by very strong carroborative
evidence, proves that she was formed by
Scottish artisans, by order of James II., when he
besieged the rebellious Douglases in the castle
of Thrieve, in Galloway, during 1455. He posted
his artillery at the Three Thorns of the Carlinwark,
one of which is still surviving ; but their fire proving
ineffective, a smith named M‘Kim, and his sons,
offered to construct a more efficient piece of ordnance.
Towards this the inhabitants of the vicinity
contributed each a ,rrczud, or iron bar. Tradition,
which never varied, indicated the place where it was
forged, a mound near the Three Thorns, .and when
the road was formed there, that mound was discovered
to be a mass of cinders and the iron dCbris
of a great forge. To this hour the place where the
great gun was posted is named Knock-cannon. Only
fwo of Meg‘s bullets were discharged before Thrieve
surrendered, and it is remarkable that both have
been found there. “The first,” says the New
Statistical Accowif, <‘was, towards the end of thk
last century, picked out of the well and delivered to
Gordon of Greenlam. The second was discovered
in 1841, by the tenant of Thrieve, when removing
an accumulation of rubbish.” It lay in a line direct
from Knock-cannon to the breach in the wall. To
reward M‘Kim Jarnes bestowed upon him the
forfeited lands of MolIFnce. The smith is said to
have nanied the gun after his wife ; and the con- ... with other four in the angles. The tiar, or bonnet, was of purple velvet; but, in 1685, it got a .cap of ...

Vol. 1  p. 74 (Rel. 0.28)

Truir Church 1 THE TRON CHURCH. 187
is, into which the sun scarcely penetrates. But it
once contained a tavern of great consideration in
its time, “The Star and Garter,” kept by a man
named Cleriheugh, who is referred to in “ Guy Mannering,”
for history and romance often march side
by side in Edinburgh, and Scott’s picture of the
strange old tavern is a faithful one. The reader
. of the novel may remember how, on a certain
Saturday night, when in search of Mr. Plzydell,
Dandie Dinmont, guiding Colonel Mannering,
turned into a dark alley, then up a dark stair, and
then into an open door.
While Dandie “was whistling shrilly for the
waiter, as if he had been one of his collie dogs,
Mannering looked around him, and could hardly
conceive how a gentleman of a liberal profession
and good society should choose such a scene foi
social indulgence. Besides the miserable entrance,
the house itself seemed paltry and half ruinous.
The passage in which they stood had a window to
the close, which admitted a little Irght in the daytime,
and a villainous compound of smells at all
times, but more especially towards evening. Corresponding
to this window was a borrowed lighl
on the other side of the passage, looking into the
kitchen, which had no direct communication with
the free air, but received in the daytime, at second.
hand, such straggling and obscure light as found
its way from the lane through the window opposite.
At present, the interior of the kitchen was visible
by its own huge fires-a sort of pandemonium,
where men and women, half-dressed, were busied
in baking, boiling, roasting oysters, and preparing
devils on the gridiron; the mistress of the place,
with her shoes slipshod, and her hair straggling
like that of Megzra from under a round-eared
cap, toiling, scolding, receiving orders and giving
them and obeying them all at once, seemed the
presiding enchantress of that gloomy and fiery
Tegion.”
Yet it was in this tavern, perhaps more than any
other, that the lawyers of the olden time held
their high jinks and many convivialities. Cleriheugh’s
was also a favourite resort of the magistrates
and town councillors when a deep ,libation was
deemed an indispensable element in the adjustment
of all civic affairs; thus, in the last century,
city wags used to tell of a certain treasurer d
Edinburgh, who, on being applied to for new rope
to the Tron Kirk bell, summoned the Council to
consider the appeal. An adjournment to Cleriheugh’s
was of course necessary ; but as one dinnei
was insufficient for the settlement of this weighty
matter, it was not until three had been discussed
that the bill was settled, and the old rope spliced !
Before proceeding with the general history ot
the High Street we will briefly notice that of the
Tron Church, and of the great fire in which it was
on the eve of perishing.
The old Greyfriars, with the other city churches,
being found insufficient for the increasing population,
the Town Council purchased two sites, on
which they intended to erect religious fabrics.
One was on the Castle Hill, where the reservoir
now stands ; the other was where the present Tron
Church is now built. This was in the year 1637,
when the total number of householders, as shown
by the Council records, could not have been much
over 5,000, as a list made four years before ‘shows
the numbers to have been 5,071, and the annual
amount ofrents payable by them only ;EI~z,I 18 ss.,
hots money.
Political disturbances retarded the progress of
both these new churches. The one on the Castle
Hill was totally abandoned, after having been
partially destroyed by the English during the siege
in 1650 ; and the other-the proper name of which
is Christ’s Church at the Tron-was not ready for
public worship till 1647, nor was it completely
finished ,till 1663, at the cost of A6,000, so much
did war with England and the contentions of the
Covenanters and Cavaliers retard everything and
impoverish the nation. On front of the tower over
the great doorway a large ornamented panel bears
the city arms in alto-relievo, and beneath them the
inscription-XDEM HANC CHRISTO ET ECCLESIE
SACRARUNT CIVES EDINBGRGENSES,, ANNO Doxr
MDCLI. It is finished internally with an open roof
of timber-work, not unlike that of the Parliament
House.
Much of the material used in the construction of
the sister church on the Castle Hill was pulled
down and used in the walls of the Tron, which the
former was meant closely to resemble, if we may
judge from the plan of Gordon of Rothiemay. 10
1644 the magistrates bought 1,000 stone weight of
copper in Amsterdam to cover the roof; but such
were the exigencies of the time that it was sold,
and stones and lead were substituted in its place.
In 1639 David Mackall, a merchant of Edinburgh;
gave >,so0 merks, or about ;E194 sterling,
to the magistrates in trust, for purchasing land, to
be applied to the maintenance of a chaplain in
the Tron Church, where he was to preach every
Sunday morning at six o’clock, or such other hour
as the wgistrates should appoint They may be
truly said, continues Arnot, “to have hid this
talent in a napkin. They did not‘ appoint a
preacher for sixty-four years. As money then
bore ten per cent., although the interest of thii ... Church 1 THE TRON CHURCH. 187 is, into which the sun scarcely penetrates. But it once contained a tavern of ...

Vol. 1  p. 187 (Rel. 0.28)

Queen Street.] SIR JAMES GRANT OF GRANT. I57
own performance that he tumbled off his chair in a
fit of laughter.”
No. 62 Queen Street was inhabited by Lord
Jeffrey from 1802 till 1810. In the following year
it became the residence of Sir John Leslie, K.H.,
Professor of Mathematics in the University of
Edinburgh, who in 1800 invented the differential
thermometer, one of the most beautiful and delicate
instruments that inductive genius‘ ever contrived
as a help to experimental research ; and the
results of his inquiries concerning the nature and
laws of heat, in which he was so much aided by
this exquisite instrument, were published in 1804,
in his celebrated “Essay on the Nature and Propagation
of Heat.” Sir John Leslie was one of
those many self-made men who are peculiarly the
glory of Scotland, for he was the son of a poor
joiner in Largo, yet he attained to the highest
honours a university can bestow. In 1832, along
with Herschel, Brewster, Hams, Nichols, and others,
on the recommendation of Lord Brougham, he was
created a Knight of the Guelphic Order, but died
in the November of that year from an attack of
erysipelas.
No. 64 was, and is still, the town residence of
the Earls of Weniyss, but has had many other
tenants. Among others here resided ‘‘ Lang Sandy
Gordon? as he was named in those days of simple
and unassuming familiarity, the son of William,
second Earl of Aberdeen, who was admitted an
advocate in 1759, and became Stewart-depute of
Kirkcudbright in 1764. Twenty years afterwards
he was raised to the bench as Lord Rockville, and
resided long in the close which bore .that name on
the Castle Hill, and afterwards in Queen Street
He was remarkable for his manly beauty and
handsome figure. He was a member of the Crochallan
Club, and a great convivialist. Walking
down the High Street one day, when the pavement
was unsafe by ice, he fell, and broke his arm.
He was conveyed to Provost Elder‘s shop, opposite
the Tron church, where surgical aid was procured
and his arm dressed ; but, unfortunately, when his
friends were conveying him to his new home at
No. 64, one of the chairmen fell and overturned
the sedan in the street, which unsettled the splinting
of his lordship’s arm, and ultimately brought on
afever, of which he died on the 13th of March,
‘792.
No. 64 was afterwards occupied by Sir James
Grant, Bart., of Grant, usually known as “the
good Sir James.” His town house, with extensive
stable-offices, had previously been at the ,foot of
the Canongate, where it was advertised for sale
in 1797, as “ presently possessed by Professor
Stewart.” At a period when the extensive Highland
proprietors were driving whole colonies of
people from the abodes of their forefathers, and
compelling them to seek on distant shores that
shelter which was denied them on their own, and
“when absenteeism and the vices of courtly intrigue
and fashionable dissipation had sapped the
morality of too many of our landholders, Sir James
Grant escaped the contagion, and during a long
life was distingifished for the possession of those
virtues which are the surest bulwarks of the peace,
happiness, and strength of a country. Possessed
of extensive estates, and surrounded by a numerous
tenantry, his exertions seemed to be equally devoted
to the progressive improvement of the one
and the present comfort and enjoyment of the
other.” ’
Among his clau he raised two regiments of Highland
Fencibles within a few months of each other.
One was numbered as the 97th, or Strathspey
Regiment, 1,800 strong, and a portion of it joined
the 4nnd for service in the West Indies. Sir
James died at Castle Grant in 181 I.
No. 66, now offices, was occupied by Stewart of
Castle Stewart ; and in No. 68 lived George Joseph
Bell, Advocate, Professor of Law, and author of
“ Principles of the Law of Scotland.” No. 7 I, in
181 I, was the residence of Francis, Lord Napier,
who served in the American war under General.
Burgoyne, but left the army in 1789. He took a
leading part in many local affiirs, was Grand
Master Mason of Scotland, Colonel of the Hopetoun
Fencibles in 1793, Commissioner to the
General Assembly in 1802, and a member of the
Board of Trustees for the Encouragement of Scottish
Manufactures and Fisheries.
His prominently aquiline face and figure were
long remarkable in Edinburgh ; though, at a time
when gentlemen usually wore gaudy coloursfrequently
a crimson or purple coat, a green plush
vest, black breeches, and white stockings-when
not in uniform, he always dressed plainly, and with
the nicest attention to propriety. An anecdote of
his finical taste is thus given in Lockhart’s “Life
of Scott ” :-
“Lord and Lady Napier arrived at Castlemilk
(in Lanarkshire), with the intention of staying a
week, but next morning it was announced that a
circumstance had occurred which rendered it indispensable
for them to return without delay to
their own seat in Selkirkshire. It was impossible
for Lady Stewart to extract any further explanation
at the moment, but it afterwards turned out that
Lord Napier’s valet had committed the grievous
mistake of packing up a set of neckcloths which ... Street.] SIR JAMES GRANT OF GRANT. I57 own performance that he tumbled off his chair in a fit of ...

Vol. 3  p. 157 (Rel. 0.28)

326 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. 11745.
-the identical vehicle in which the deputies had returned
from Gray’s Mill, and the driver of which
wanted to pass out at that critical juncture. “Open
the port,” he cried, “for I behove to get out.” “You
cannot,” yeplied the sentinel, “without an order from
Provost Stewart.” “Let the coach out instantly,”
said James Gillespie, under-keeper of the gate,
‘:for I have an order to that effect.” “Oh, sir, ’tis
very well; you have the keys of the port and must
answer for it,” replied the soldier,. as he pulled
back the ponderous gate in the arch between its
two massive towers.
At that moment a Highlander sprang in and
wrested his musket from him ; it was the chief of
Lochiel; and immediately the whole clan Cameron
advanced up the street, with swords drawn and
colours flying, their pipes playing
“ We’ll awa to Shirramuir,
And haud the Whigs ip order.”
Other noise there was none, and no bloodshed;
not an armed man was to be seen on the streets, to
the astonishment of the Highlanders, who saw only
the people in their nightdresses, at the windows,
by the light of the early dawn.
They seized the Guard-house, disarmed the
Guard, captured the cannon and arsenal, placed
pickets at the eight principal gates with the
utmost order and regularity, while the magistrates
retired to their houses, aware that their authority
was ended. .
Generals Guest and Preston hoisted the royal
standard on the Castle, and fired a few cannon to
warn all to keep from its vicinity, and, meanwhile,
after two hours’ sleep, Charles prepared to take
possession of the palace of his forefathers. Making
a tour to the south, to avoid the fire of the Castle
till he reached Braidsburn, he turned towards the
city as far as the Hare Stone, a mass of granite
on the turnpike road near Morningside-the old
banner stone of the Burghmuir. He then wheeled
to the east by the beech-shaded Grange Loan (now
bordered by villas, sequestered and grassy then),
which leads by the old house of the Grange to the
Causeway side
Near Priestfield he entered the royal parks by
a breach that had been made in the wall, and
traversed the Hunter’s Bog, that had echoed so
often .to the bugles of his ancestors. Leaving his
troops to take up their camp, about noon he rode
-with what emotions we may imagine-towards
old Holyrood, of a thousand stirring memories,
attended by the Duke of Perth and Lord Elcho,
with a train of gentlemen and the veterans of his
Highland guard-veterans of Sherriffmuir and Glenshiel-
eighty in number, at the very time that Sir
John Cope’s armament was disembarking at Dunbar.
On reaching the eminence below St. Anthony’s
chapel and well, when for the first time he came
in sight of the old palace, he alighted from his
horse, and paused to survey the beautiful scene.
Then descending to the Duke’s Walk (so called
because it had been a favourite resort of his grandfather,
to whose flagrant misgovernment he owed
his exile) he halted for a few minutes to show himself
to the people, who now flocked around him in
great numbers with mingled feelings of ccriosity
and admiration. Loud huzzas came from the
crowd, and many of the enthusiastic Jacobites
knelt down and kissed his hand. He then
mounted his horse-a fine bay gelding, presented
to him by the Duke of Perth-and rode slowly
towards the palace. On arriving in front of Holyrood
he alighted, and was about to enter the royal
dwelling, when a cannon ball fired from the Castle
struck the front of Jarnes V.’s tower, and brought
down a quantity of rubbish into the court-yard.
No injury was done, however, by this gratuitous
act of annoyance, and the Prince, passing in at the
outer gate, and proceeding along the piazza, and
the quadrangle, was about to enter the porch of
what are called the Duke of Hamilton’s apartments,
when James Hepburn of Keith, who had takeii
part in the rising of 1715, ‘a model of ancient
simplicity, manliness, and honour,’ stepped from
the crowd, bent his knee in token of homage, and
then drawing his sword, raised it aloft, and marshalled
the way before Charles up-stairs.”
On this day Charles wore a short tartan coat, with
the star of St- Andrew, a blue velvet bonnet, and
white cockade, a blue ribbon over his shoulder,
scarlet breeches, and military boots, Tall, handsome,
fair, and noble in aspect, he excited the
admiration of all those fearless Jacobites, the ladies
especially. “All were charmed with his appearance,”
says Home; “they compared him to
Robert Bruce, whom he resembled, they said, in
his figure and fortune. The Whigs looked upon
him with other eyes; they acknowledged that he
was a goodly person, but observed that even in
that triumphant hour, when about to enter the
palace of his fathers, the air of his countenance was
languid and melancholy; that he looked like a
gentleman and man of fashion, but not like a hero
or conqueror.” He adds, however, that he was
greeted with acclaim by the peasantry, who, whenever
he went abroad, sought to kiss his hand3 and
even to touch his clothes.
At one o’clock on the same day a body of the
Cameron clansmen was drawn up around the ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. 11745. -the identical vehicle in which the deputies had returned from Gray’s Mill, and ...

Vol. 2  p. 326 (Rel. 0.28)

334 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. 11746.
b
ONE of the most important events in the annals
of Edinburgh was the erection of the North
Bridge, by means of which, in spite of years of
opposition, the long-suggested plan for having a
his just and honourable cause.’’ His wife pleaded
for his pardon at the feet of George 11. in vain,
and, like the others, “he died with his last breath
imploring a blessing on Prince Charles.”
Lord Arundel of Wardour relates the following
anecdote :-“ Many years after the Stuart rising,
the Duke of Cumberland being present at a ball
at Bath, indicated as a person with whom he
would like to dance, a beautiful girl, the daughter
of Major Macdonald who was executed at Carlisle,
and the circumstances of whose last moments
supplied Sir Walter Scott with the incidents of
M‘Ivor‘s execution in ‘ Waverley.’ The lady rose
in deference to the prince, but replied in a tone
which utterly discomfited his Royal Highness,
‘ NO, sir, I will never dance with the murderer yf
my father/ ’ ”
The Duke, with an army overwhelming in numbers,
as contrasted with that of Charles, passed
through Edinburgh on the ~ 1 s t of February, 1746,
not marching at the head of his troops, like the
latter, but travelling in a coach-and-six presented
to him by the Earl of Hopetoun; and on being
joined by 6,000 Hessians, who landed under the
Landgrave at Leith, he proceeded to obliterate
“ all memory of the last disagreeable affair ” as the
rout at Falkirk was named. As he passed up
the Canongate and High Street he is said to have
expressed great surprise at the .number of broken
windows he saw ; but when informed that this was
the result of a recent illumination in his honour,
and that a shattered casement indicated the residence
of a Jacobite, he laughed heartily, remarking,
“that he was better content with this explanation,
ill as it omened to himself and his family, than
he could have been with his first impression,
which ascribed the circumstance to poverty or
negligence.”
A vast mob followed his coach, which passed
through the Grassmarket, and quitted the city by
new and enlarged city, beyond the walls an&
barriers of the old one, was eventually and successfully
developed to an extent far beyond what
its enthusiastic and patriotic projectors caul$.
the West Port, en route to Culloden, and “at midnight
on Saturday the 19th of April Viscount
Bury, colonel of the 20th Regiment, aide-de-camp.
to the Duke of Cumberland, reined up his jaded
horse at the Castle gate, bearer of a despatch t e
the Lieutenant-General, announcing the victory ;.
and at two o’clock on the morning of Sunday a.
salute from the batteries informed the startled and
anxious citizens that, quenched in blood on the.
Muir of Drummossie, the star of the Stuarts had
sunk for ever.”
The standard of Charles, which Tullybardine.
unfurled in Glenfinnan, and thirteen others belonging
to chiefs, with several pieces of artillery and a
quantity of arms, were brought to the Castle and
lodged in the arsenal, where some of the latter
still remain; and one field-piece, which was placed
on abattery to the westward, was long an object
of interest to the people. With a spite that seems.
childish now, by order of Cumberland those
standards, whose insignia were all significant ot
high descent and old achievement, were camed ia
procession to the Cross. The common hangmall.
bore that of Charles, thirteen Tronmen, or sweeps,.
bore the rest, and all were flung into a fire,
guarded by the 44th Regiment, while the heralds
proclaimed the name of each chief to whom they
belonged-hchiel, Clanranald, Keppoch, Glengarry,
and so forth ; while the crowd looked on in
silence. By this proceeding, so petty in its character,
Cumberland failed alike to inflict an injuryon
the character of the chiefs or their faithful
followers, among whom, at that dire time, the
bayonet, the gibbet, the torch, and the axe, were
everywhere at work; and, when we consider his.
blighted life and reputation in the long years that
followed, it seems that it would have been well had
the Young Chevalier, the “bonnie Prince Charlie ”
of so much idolatry, found his grave on the Moor
of Culloden.
. . ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. 11746. b ONE of the most important events in the annals of Edinburgh was the erection ...

Vol. 2  p. 334 (Rel. 0.28)

The Cowgate.] THE CUNZIE NOOK. 267
dexter hand palmed, and in its palm an eye. In
the dexter canton, a saltire argent, under the imperial
crown, surmounted by a thistle j and in base
a castle argent, masoned sable, within a border,
charged with instruments used by the society. To
the surgeons. were added the apothecaries.
James IV., one of the greatest patrons of art and
science in his time, dabbled a little in surgery and
chemistry, and had an assistant, John the Leeche,
whom he brought from the Continent. Pitscottie
tells us that James was “ane singular guid chirurgione,”
and in his daily expense book, singular
entries occur in 1491, of payments made to people
to let him bleed them and pull their teeth :-
“Item, to ane fallow, because the King pullit
furtht his twtht, xviii shillings.
“Item, to Kynnard, ye barbour, for tua teith
drawin furtht of his hed be the King, xvci sh.”
The barbers were frequently refractory, and
brought the surgeons into the Court of Session t e
adjust rights, real or imagined. But after the union
of the latter with the apothecaries, they gave up
the barber craft, and were formed into one corporation
by an Act of Council, on the 25th February,
1657, as already mentioned in the account of
the old Royal College of Surgeons.
The first admitted after the change, was Christopher
Irving, recorded as ‘‘ ane free chmgone,”
without the usual words “and barber,” after his
name. He was physician to James VII., and from
him the Irvings of Castle Irving, in .Ireland, are
descended.
CHAPTER XXXIII.
THE SOCIETY.
The Candlemaker Row--The “ Cunzie Nook”-Tbe of Charles 1.-The Candlemakers’ Hall--The Afhk of Dr. Symons-The Society, IS+
Brown Square-Proposed Statue to George III., x~-Di&nguished Inhabitants-Si IsIay Campbell-Lard Glenlec-Haigof Beimerside
--Si John Lerlie-Miss Jeannie Elliot-Argyle Square-Origin of it-Dr. Hugh Bkit-The Sutties of that Ilk-Trades Maiden Hospital-
-Mint0 House and the Elliots-New Medical School-Baptist Church-Chambers Strect-Idustrial Museum of Sdence and Art-Its
Great Hall and adjoining Halls-Aim of the Architect-Contents and Models briefly glanced at-New Watt Institution and School of
ArtsPhrenoloEical Museum-New Free Tron Church-New Tiainiing College of the Church of Scotland-The Dental Hospita-The
.
Theatre ofvari.&s.
THE Candlemaker Row is simply the first portion
of the old way that led from the Grassmarket and
Cowgate-head, where Sir John Inglis resided in
1784, to the lands of Bnsto, and thence on to
Powburn ; and it was down this way that a portion
of the routed Flemings, with Guy of Namur at their
head, fled towards the Castle rock, after their
defeat on the Burghmuir in 1335.
In Charles I.’s time a close line of street with a
great open space behind occupied the whole of the
east side, from the Greyfriars Port to the Cowgatehead.
The west side was the boundary wall of the
churchyard, save at the foot, where two or three
houses appear in 1647, one of which, as the Cunzie
Nook, is no doubt that referred to by Wilson as
a curious little timber-fronted tenement, surmounted
with antique crow-steps ; an open gallery
projects in front, and rude little; shot-windows admit
the light to the decayed and gloomy chambers
therein.” This, we presume, to be the Cunzie Nook,
a place where the Mint had no doubt been estab
Cshed at some early period, possibly during some
of the strange proceedings in the Regency of Mary
of Guise, when the Lords of the Congregation
“past to Holyroodhous, and tuik and intromettit
With the ernis of the Cunzehous.”
On the west side, near the present entrance to
the churchyard of the Greyfriars, stands the hall of
the ancient Corporation of the Candlemakers, which
gave its name to the Row, with the arms of the
craft boldly cut over the doorway, on a large oblong
panel, and, beneath, their appropriate motto,
. Omnia man;jesfa Zuce.
Internally, the hall is subdivided into many residences,
smaller accommodation sufficing for the
fraternity in this age of gas, so that it exists little
more than in name. In 1847 the number of its
members amounted to only fhw, who met periodically
for various purposes, connected with the corporation
and its funds.
Edgar‘s plan shows, in the eighteenth century, the
close row of houses that existed along the whole of
the west side, from the Bristo Port to the foot, and
nearly till Forrest Road was opened up in a linewith
the central Meadow Walk.
Humble though this locality may seem now, Sir
James Dunbar, Bart., of Dum, rented No. ZI in
1810, latterly a carting office. In those days the
street was a place ‘of considerable bustle; the
Hawick dilligence started twice weekly from
Paterson’s Inn, a well-known hostel in its time, ... Cowgate.] THE CUNZIE NOOK. 267 dexter hand palmed, and in its palm an eye. In the dexter canton, a saltire ...

Vol. 4  p. 267 (Rel. 0.28)

208 OLD AND ‘NEW EDINBURGH. [High Street.
there was born in 1741 his son, the celebrated
statesman, Henry Viscount Melville.
There long abode, on the first floor of the
“ Bishop’s Land,” a fine old Scottish gentleman,
‘‘ one of the olden time,” Sir Stuart Thriepland, of
Fingask Castle, Bart., whose father had been attainted
after the battle of Sheriffmuir, which,
however, did not prevent Sir Stuart from duly
taking his full share in the ‘45. His wanderings
over, and the persecutions past, he took up his
residence here, and had his house well hung, we
are told, with well-painted portraits of royal per-
He died 1 sonages-but not cf the reipinn house.
One of the most famous edifices on the north
side of the High Street was known as “ the Bishop’s
Land,” so called from having been the town
residence of John Spottiswood, Archbishop of St.
Andrews in 1615, and son of John Spottiswood,
Superintendent of Lothian, a reformed divine, who
prayed over James VI., and blessed him when
an infant in his cradle, in the Castle of Edinburgh.
From him the Archbishop inherited the house,
which bore the legend and date,
BLISSIT .BE .YE. LORD. FOR.ALL. HIS. GIFTIS. 1578.
consequently it must have been built when the Superintendent
(whose father
fell at Flodden) was in
his sixty-eighth year, and
was an edifice sufficiently
commodious and magnificent
to serve as a town
residence of the Primate
of Scotland, who in his
zeal to promote the designs
of James VI. for
the establishment of Episcopacy,
performed the
then astounding task of
no less than fifty journeys
to London.
The ground floor of
the mansion, like many
others of the same age
in the same street, was
formed of a deeply-arched
piazza, the arches of
whichsprang from massive
stone piers. From the
first floor there projected
~.
ALLAN RAMSAY.
(From the Portrait in ihe 1761 Edition e/ has “Poems.”)
a fine brass balcony, that
must many a time and oft have been hung with gay
garlands and tapestry, and crowded with the fair
and noble to witness the state pageants of old,
such as the great procession of Charles I. to Holyrood,
where he was crowned by the archbishop
King of Scotland in 1633. From this house
Spottiswood was obliged to fly, when the nation
en mnsse resisted, with peremptory promptitude, the
introduction of the Liturgy. He took refuge in
London, where he died in 1639, and was interred
in Westminster Abbey.
In 1752 the celebrated Lady Jane Douglas, wife
of Sir George Stuart of Grantully, and the heroine
of the famous “ Douglas cause,” was an occupant
of ‘‘ the Bishop’s Land,” till she ceased to be
able to afford a residence even there. Therein,
tDo, resided the first Lord President Dundas, and
- -
in 1805, and the forfeited
honours were generously
restored by George IV.
in 1826 to his son, Sir
Patrick M. Thriepland
of Fingask, which had
long before been purchased
back by the money
of his mother, Janet Sinclair
of Southdun.
On the third floor,
above him, dwelt the
Hamiltons of Pencaitland,
and the baronial Aytouns
of Inchdairnie. hlrs.
Aytoun was Isabel, daughter
of Kobert, fourth Lord
Rollo, “ and would sometimes
come down the
stair,” says Robert Chambers,
“ lighting herself
with a little waxen taper,
to drink tea with Mrs.
Janet Thriepland (Sir
Patrick‘s sister)-for so
she called herself, though unmarried. In the
uppermost floor of all lived a reputable tailor
and his family. All the various tenants, including
the tailor, were on friendly terms with ’
each other-a pleasant. thing to tell of this bit of
the old world, which has left nothing of the same
kind behind it in these days, when we all live at il
greater distance, physical and moral, from each
other.”
This fine old tenement, which. was one of the
most aristocratic in the street till a comparatively
recent period, was totally destroyed by fire in
1814.
Eastward of it stood the town-house of the
Hendersons of Fordel (an old patrician Fifeshire
family), with whom Queen Mary was once
a visitor; but it, too, has passed away, and an ... OLD AND ‘NEW EDINBURGH. [High Street. there was born in 1741 his son, the celebrated statesman, Henry ...

Vol. 2  p. 208 (Rel. 0.28)

82 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [North Loch.
whose windows perhaps the accident occurred
“that the fox will not set his foot on the ict
after Candlenias, especially in the heat of the sun
as this was, at two o’clock; and at any time tht
fox is so sagacious as to lay his ear on the icf
to see if it be frozen to the bottom, or if he heal
the murmuring and current of the water.”
In I 7 I 5, when the magistrates took measures foi
the defence of the city, the sluice of the loch was
completely dammed up to let the water rise, a pre.
caution omitted by their successors in 1745. Ir
Edgar’s plan, twenty years later, the bed of thc
loch is shown as ‘‘ now devised,” measuring 1,70c
feet in length, from the foot of Xamsay Garden tc
the foot of Halkerston’s Wynd, and 400 feet broad
at the foot of the gardens below the Advocate’s
Close. From the upper point to the West Church
the bed is shown as “bog or marsh.”
“ Yet many in common with myself,” says
Chambers, “must remember the by no means
distant time when the remains of this sheet oi
water, consisting of a few pools, served as an ex.
cellent sliding and skating ground in winter, while
their neglected, grass-grown precincts too fre
quently formed an arena whereon the high and
mighty quarrels of the Old and New Town cowZie3
were brought to lapidarian arbitration j ” and until
a very recent period woodcocks, snipe, and waterducks
used to frequent the lower part of the West
Princes Street Gardens, attracted by the damp oi
the locality.
‘‘ The site of the North Loch,” says a writer in
the Edinburgh Magazine for 1790, “is disgusting
below as well as above the bridge, and the balus
trades of the east side ought to be filled up like
those of the west, as they are only meant to show
a beautiful stream, not slaughter-houses.”
The statute for the improvement of the valley
westward of the mound was not passed until 1816 ;
but Lord Cockburn describes it as being then an
impassable fetid marsh, “open on all sides, the
Teceptacle of many sewers, and seemingly of all the
worried cats, drowned dogs, and blackguardism of
the city, Its abomination made it so solitary that
the volunteers used to practise ball-firing across it.
The men stood on its north side, and the targets
were set up along the lower edge of the castle
hiil, or rock. The only difficulty was in getting
across the swamp to place and examine the targets,
which could only be done in very dry weather and
at one or two places.”
In the maps of 1798 a “new mound” would
seem to have been projected across it, at an angle,
from South Castle Street to the Ferry Road, by
the western base of the castle rock-a design, fortunately,
never carried out. One of the greatest
mistakes committed as a matter of taste was the
erection of the Earthen Mound across the beautiful
valley of the loch, from the end of Hanover
Street to a point at the west end of Bank Street.
It is simply an elongated hill, like a huge railway
embankment, a clumsy, enormous, and unreniovzble
substitute for a bridge which should have been
there, and its creation has been deplored by every
topographical writer on Edinburgh.
Huge as the mass is, it originated in a very
accidental operation. When the bed of the loch
was in a state of marsh, a shopkeeper, Mr. George
Boyd, clothier, at Gosford’s Close, in the old town,
was frequently led from business or curiosity to
visit the rising buildings of the new, and accommodated
himself with ‘‘ steps ” across this marsh,
and he was followed in the construction of this
path by other persons similarly situated, who contributed
their quota of stone or plank to fill up,
widen, and heighten what, in rude compliment to
the founder, was becoming known as “Geordie
Boyd’s Mud Brig.” The inconvenience arising
from the want of a direct communication between
the old town and the new began to be seriously
felt about 1781, when the latter had been built as
far west as Hanover Street.
Hence a number of residents, chiefly near the
Lawnmarket, held a meeting in a small publichouse,
kept by a man called Robert nunn, and
called in burlesque, “Dunn’s Hotel,” after a
lashionable hotel of that name in Princes Street,
and subscriptions were opened to effect a communication
of some kind ; but few were required,
zs Provost Grieve, who resided at the corner of
Hanover Street, in order to fill up a quarry before
his house, obtained leave to have the rubbish from
the foundations of the various new streets laid
down there. From that time the progress of the
Mound proceeded with iapidity, and from 1781
till 1830 augmentations to its breadth and height
were continually made, till it became the mighty
mass it is. By the latter date the Mound had bezome
levelled and macadamised, its sides sown
with grass, and in various ways embellished so as to
issume the appearance of being completed. It is
ipwards of 800 feet in length, on the north upwards
if 60 feet in height, and on the south about IOO feet.
[ts breadth is proportionally much greater than its
ieight, averaging about 300 feet. It is computed
:o contain more than z,ooo,ooo of cartloads of
ravelled edrth, and on the moderate supposition
:hat each load, if paid for, was worth Gd., must
iave cost the large sum of ~ 5 0 , 0 0 0 .
It was first enclosed by rough stone walls, and ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [North Loch. whose windows perhaps the accident occurred “that the fox will not set his ...

Vol. 3  p. 82 (Rel. 0.28)

barbarism of the Scottish court. She was magnificent
in her own attire ; she increased the number
of persons in attendance on the king, and caused
him to be served at table in gold and silver plate.
She was canonised by Innocent IV. in 1251. For
several ages the apartment in which she expired
was known as “ye blessit Margaret’s chalmer” (i.e.,
chamber). A fountain on the west side of the
fortress long bore her name; and a small guardhouse
on the western ramparts is still called the
Queen’s, or St. biargaret’s, Post.
The complete restoration of her oratory (says an
Edinburgh Courant of 1853) “has been effected
in a very satisfactory manner, under the superintendence
of Mr. Grant. The modern western
entrance has been built up, and an .ancient one
re-opened at the north-west corner of the nave.
Here a new doorway has been built in the same
style with the rest of the building. The three
small round-headed windows have been filled with
stained glass-the light in the south side of the
apse representing St. Margaret, the two in the
side of the nave showing her husband, King
Malcolm Canmore and their son St. David, and
the light in the west gable of the nay having
a cross and the sacred monogram with this inscription
:-Hac ediczda oZim Beafce Margaretce
Regim Scofia, puce obiit M.XCIII., ingrate $atria
izqli&zfia Zapsa, Victorire Rpmz prognatre auspiciis
restitufa, A. D. MUCCCLII..”
St. Margaret had scarcely expired, when Bishop
Turgot, her children, and the whole court, were filled
with terror, on finding the fortress environed by an
army composed of fierce western Highlanders, “clad
in the dun deer‘s hide, striped breacan, and hauberks
(or lurichs) of jingling rings,” and led by
Donald Bane, or the fair-haired, the younger brother
of Malcolm III., who had fled to the Hebrides, as
the latter did to England, on the usurpation by
Macbeth.
Without opposition he had himself proclaimed
king, and ,promised to give the Hebrides and other
isles to Magnus Barefoot, King of Norway, for assistance
if it were required.
He had resolved to put the orphan children of
Malcolm to death, but believing that egress from
the fortress on the steep could only be had by the
gates facing the little town, he guarded them alone.
The children thus escaped by a western postern,
and fled to England, where they found protection
with their uncle, Edgar Atheling. The two princesses
were afterwards married : Mary to Eustace,
Count of Boulogne, the great Crusader; and
Matilda to Henry of England-a union extremely
popular with the Saxon people.
By the same postern Turgot and others carefully
and reverentlyconveyed the body of the queen,
and carried it “ to Dunfermline, in the woods; and
that Heaven might have some share in protecting
remains so sacred, the legendaries record that a
miraculous mist arose frow the earth, concealing
the bishop, the royal corpse, and its awe-stricken
bearers, from the half-savage Donald and his redhaired
Islesmen, and did pot pass away until they
had crossed in safety the Passagkm Repine, or
Queen’s Ferry, nine miles distant, where Margaret
had granted land for the maintenance of a passage
boat ”-a grant still in force.
She was buried at Dunfermline, under the great
block of grey marble which still marks her grave ;
and in the sides thereof may yet be seen the
sockets of the silver lamps which, after her canonisation,
burned there until the Reformation, when the
Abbot of Dunfermline fled to the Castle of Edinburgh
with her head in a jewelled coffer, and gave
it to some Jesuits, who took it to Antwerp. From
thence it was borne to the Escurial in Spain, where
it is still preserved by the monks of St. Jerome.
Her son xdgar, a prince of talent and valour,
recovered the throne by his sword, and took up
his residence in the Castle of Edinburgh, where
he had seen his mother expire, and where he, too,
passed away, on the 8th of January, 1107. The
register of the Priory of St. Andrews, in recording
his demise, has these words :-“ Moriuus in Dun-
Edin, est sepuZfus in Dunfe~ndikg.”
On his death-bed he bequeathed that part of
Cumberland which the kings of Scotland possessed
to his younger brother David. Alexander I., surnamed
the Fierce,” eldest brother of the latter,
was disposed to dispute the validity of this donation
; but perceiving that David had won over the
English barons to his interest, he acquiesced in this
partial dismemberment of the kingdom.
It is in the reign of this monarch, in the first
years of the twelfth century, that the first notices
of Edinburgh as a royal city and residence are
most distinctly found, while’ in that of his successor,
David I., crowned in 1124 after being long
resident at the court of his sister Matilda, where,
according to Malmesbury, “his manners were polished
fiom the rust of Scottish barbarity,” and
where he married Matilda daughter of Waltheof,
Earl of Northumberland, we discover the origin
of many of the most important local features still
surviving. He founded the abbey of Holyrood,
called by Fordun ‘‘ Monastmirm Sancfre Cmcis de
Crag.” This convent, the precursor of the great
abbey, he is said to have placed at first within the
Castle, and some of the earliest gifts of its saintly ... of the Scottish court. She was magnificent in her own attire ; she increased the number of persons in ...

Vol. 1  p. 19 (Rel. 0.27)

323 *la.] ADV.4NCE OF THE * HIGHLANDERS, -__
appointed thereto in 1716), mustered the outpensioners
of Chelsea, and officered them, locally,
from the half-pay list.
Doubtful of the faith of Preston, as a Scotsman,
the Government superseded him in command, and
sent in his place Lieutenant-General Joshua Guest,
an Englishman, who proved a staunch Jacobite,
and on the approach of the Highlanders he was
the first to propose a capitulation, a measure
vigorously opposed by Preston, a resolute Whig 01
the old King William school, who thereupon undertook
the defence, with a gamson which consisted
only of the old Castle company, the two companies
of the 47th, each mustering about seventy bayonets,
under Major Robertson, the Chelsea Pensioners,
and Lieutenant Brydone’s artillery company, which
had landed at Leith on the 4th of September, and
marched in with a great quantity of the munitions
of war.
The other troops in Scotland at this time consisted
only of the 13th and 14th Light Dragoons
at Edinburgh, the company of the Royals captured
at Spean Bridge, the 6th Foot at Aberdeen, two
companies of the 21st Scots Fusiliers at Glasgow,
the 25th Edinburgh regiment in Fifeshire, two
companies of the 4znd at Crieff, five of the 44th
in the West, and another five at Berwick, the 46th
(known as ‘‘ Murray’s Bucks ”) scattered over the
Highlands, Loudon’s Highlanders (disbanded in
1749) stationed in the north ; in all not quite 4,ooc
men ; but, collecting these, Sir John Cope prepared
to bar the Prince’s way into the Lowlands.
Quitting Perth at the head of little more than
2,000 men,* only the half of whom had arms, the
latter, on the 11th September, resumed his adventurous
march southward, and crossing the Forth
by the perilous fords of Frew, to avoid the guns
of Stirling, he held on his way by the Scottish
Marathon, by the Torwood and Linlithgow, traversing
scenes that he, the heir of the ancient regal
line, could not have beheld without emotion, engaged,
as he was, on an enterprise more daring
and more desperate than had ever been undertaken
by any of his ancestors since Bruce fought
the battle of Dalry.
On the 1,gth he was at Corstorphine, less than
A true account of thestrengthof the Highland army, aph August, 1745.
Lochiel ........................... 700
Clanmnald, having men of his Islands ...... 050
The Stewarts of Appin under Ardsheil ...... a50
Keppoch ........................... 260
and the Grants of Glenmorriston ...... 600
, Glengawy’s men, induding Knoydart, Glencoe.
2 . h
(“ Culloden Papers. ’3
“The Highlanders were not more than 1,800, and the half of them only
Were armed.” (“Autobiography of Dr. Carlyle of Inveresk”)
lour miles distant from the capital, and to avoid
exposing his troops to the Castle guns in advancing,
he wheeled southward towards Slateford, and fixed
his quarters at Gray’s Mill, two miles from the
city.
Great was now the excitement within the walls.
The militia, called the trained bands, consisted of
sixteen companies, or 1,000 men, entirely undisciplined,
and many of them entirely disloyal to the
Hanoverian cause. In their own armoury the
citizens had 1,259 muskets and zoo bayonets, 300
sets of accoutrements, a considerable quantity of
ammunition, with seventy-five stand of arms and
Lochaber axes belonging to the City Guard. On
Sunday, 16th September, Hislop, keeper of this
arsenal, issued 500 rounds of ball ammunition and
sixty firelocks to each company of the trained
bands, thirty-nine firelocks to the additional
company of the City Guard, and twenty-four to the
company of the Canongate-head, 500 rounds of
ball to the Seceders, whose muster-place was the
Infirmary, and 450 Ibs. of powder for the cannon on
the walls. All the rest he sent to the Castle. The
banner borne by the Seceders is now in the Museum
3f Antiquities, and was once used at Bothwell
Brig. It is blue, with a white St. Andrew‘s saltire,
charged with five roses, and the motto, Cmenanfs,
Ueligion, Kin& and Kingdoms.
Towards the end of the preceding month the
nore zealous citizens had proposed to raise a
regiment 1,000 strong for the defence of the town ;
but the royal permission therefor was not accorded
till the 9th of September, and by the time that
the Prince drew near only zoo men had been
enrolled, all of the most dissolute character, and
tempted by the proffered pay alone. In addition
to these was the regiment of Edinburgh Volunteers,
400 strong, divided into six companies, and drilled
regularly twice daily. Cannon from the ships at
Leith were mounted on the walls together with
swivels or pateraroes (i.e., small cannon). The ports
were barricaded ; there was much military bluster,
with much Singing of psalms ; but as the Highlanders
drew nearer all this show of valour died away.
When the Prince’s vanguard was at Kirkliston, it
was proposed by General Guest that the two Light
Dragoon regiments, supported by the City Guard,
the so-called Edinburgh Regiment, and 250 volunteers,
should march out and give battle to the
insurgents !
The signal was given ; on the forenoon of Sunday
the 15th of September the clang of the alarm
bells came during sermon, and the people rushed
rorth from the churches to find the detailed force
&-awn up under arms ia the High Street; but the ... *la.] ADV.4NCE OF THE * HIGHLANDERS, -__ appointed thereto in 1716), mustered the outpensioners of Chelsea, ...

Vol. 2  p. 323 (Rel. 0.27)

he barbarously threw the bodies on a great fire
that blazed in the fireplace of the tower; “and
there in their armour they broiled and sweltered
like tortoises in iron shells.” Locking the doors,
the fugitives hurriedly and stealthily reached the
tower-head unseen. The attendant lowered himself
down first over the abutting crag, which there is
more than zoo feet in height, but the cord proving
too short it slipped from his hands, and he fell to
the bottom senseless.
This must have been a terrible crisis for the
blood-stained Albany ! Hurrying back to his now
horrible apartment in the tower, he dragged the
sheets from his bed, added them to the rope,
looped it round an embrasure, and lowered himself
safely down over rampart and rock to the bottom,
where he found his attendant lying helpless, with a
broken thigh Unwilling to leave him to ptrish,
Albany, with a sentiment that contrasts singularly
with his recent ferocity, raised him on his shoulders,
and being a man of unusual strength and
Stature, he actually conveyed him to Leith, a distance
of two miles; and, when the sun rose, the
ship, with Albany, was out on the German sea.
Daylight revealed the rope and twisted sheets
hanging over the rampart of the tower. An alarm
was given, which the dreadful stench from the
locked chamber must have increased. The door
was opened. Albany was gone, but the half-con-
Qumed corpses were found in the fireplace; and
James 111. refused to believe in a story so incredible
till he had visited the place in person.*
Albany fled to England, the king of which refused
to deliver him up. Thus war was declared,
and James marched from the Burghmuir with
$0,000 men and a train of guns, under the master
of the ordndnce, a stone-mason, whom, with great
impolicy, he had created Earl of Mar. At Lauder
the nobles halted; hanged all the king’s minions
over the bridge in horse-halters, and disbanded
the troops j and then the humbled and luckless
James returned to the Castle, where for many
months, in 1481, he remained a species of prisoner
in the custody of its commanders, the Earls of
Athol and Buchan, who,’ it has been supposed,
would have murdered him in secret had not the
Lord Darnley and other loyal barons protected
him, by never leaving his chamber unguarded by
night or day. There he remained in a species of
honourable durance, while near him lay in 3 dungeon
the venerable *Earl of Douglas, who scorned
to be reconciled, though James, in his humility,
made overtures to him. He appealed at last to
Lindesay, Diummond, Scott, Buchan, &c.
England for aid against his turbulent barons, and
Edward IV. (though they had quarrelled about a
matrimonial alliance, and about the restoration of
Berwick) sent Richard, Duke of Gloucester; north,
at .the head of 10,000 auxiliaries, who encamped
on the Burghmuir, where the Duke of Albany, who
affected a show of loyalty, joined them, at the very
time that the rebellious nobles of lames were
sitting in council in the Tolbooth. Thither went
Albany and Gloucester, the “ crookbacked Dick”
of Shakspere and of Bosworth, attended by a
thousand gentlemen of both countries, and the
parties having come to terms, heralds were sent to
the Castle to charge the commander thereof to
open the gates and set the king at liberty; after
which the royal brothers, over whose fraternisation
Pitscottie’s narrative casts some ridicule, rode
together, he adds, to Holyrood, “ quhair they remained
ane long time in great merrines.”
William Bertraham, Provost of Edinburgh, with
the whole community of the city, undertook to
repay to the king of England the dowry of his
daughter the Lady Cecil, and afterwards they
fulfilled their obligations by repaying 6,000 merks
to the Garter King-at-Arms. In acknowledgment
of this loyal service James granted to the city the
patent known as its “Golden Charter,” by which
the provost and bailies were created sheriffs of
their own boundaries, with other important privileges.
Upon the craftsmen he also conferred a
banner, said to have been made by the queen and
her ladies, still preserved and known popularly as
the “ Blue Blanket,” and it was long the rallying
point of the Burgher-guard in every war or civic
broil. Thus, Jarnes VI., in the “ Basilicon Doron,”
points out to Prince Henry-“ The craftsmen think
we should be content with their work how bad
soever it be ; and if in anything they be controuled,
up goes the Blue Blanket ! ”
This banner, according to Kincaid, is of blue
silk, with a white St. Andrew’s cross. It is swallowtailed,
measuring in length from the pole ten feet
two inches, and in breadth six and a half feet. It
bears a thistle crowned, with the mottoes : “Fear
God and honour the King with a long lyffe and
a prosperous reigne ; ” and ‘‘ And we that is Trades
shall ever pray to be faithful1 for the defence of
his sacred Maiesties royal person till Death.”
Jarnes 111. was noted about this time for the
quantity of treasure, armour, and cannon he had
stored up in the Castle, his favourite residence.
In David‘s Tower stood his famous black kist
(probably the same which is now in the Crown
room), filled with rare and costly-gems, gold and
silver specie, massive plate, and a wonderful C6!- ... barbarously threw the bodies on a great fire that blazed in the fireplace of the tower; “and there in their ...

Vol. 1  p. 34 (Rel. 0.27)

THE NORMAL SCHOOL. 295 George IV. Bridge.]
highly qualified examiners, on every point of which
it takes cognisance. It grants annually ten bursaries
of L z o each, and five of LIO each, to be
competed for by pupils of schools approved .of by
the directors.
The Society’s vested capital now’ amounts to
&o,ooo, and its annual revenue reaches more than
&,~oo, besides the receipts for general shows,
The Argyle Fund, for the education of young Highland
gentlemen for the navy, now amounts to
A5,639, and was instituted by John fifth Duke of
Argyle, the original president of the Society.
From its chambers, No. 3, George IV. Bridge, surveying
a width of range and multiplicity of objects
worthy of its wealth and intellect, its opulence of
power and resource, the Soqiety promotes the erection
of towns and bridges, the formation of roads,
the experiments and enterprises of agriculture, the
improvement of farm stock, the sheltering processes
of planting, the extension of fisheries, the introduction
of manufactures, the adaptation of machinery
to all useful arts, the ready co-operation of
’ local influence with legislative and public measures,
the diffusion of practical knowledge of all that may
tend to the general good of the Scottish nation,
and the consolidation of the Highlanders and
Lowlanders into one great fraternal community.
“ The Society awards large and numerous premiums
to stimulate desiderated enterprises, and in
1828 began the publication of the Quarter0 lown
d of Agridtztre, for prize essays and the dissemination
of the newest practical information ; it
patronises great annual cattle shows successively in
different towns, and by means of them excites and
directs a stirring and creditable spirit of emulation
among graziers, and, in general, it keeps in play
upon the community, a variety of influences which,
as far as regards mere earthly well-being, have
singularly transformed and beautified its character.”
Its arms are a figure of Caledonia on a pedestal,
between two youths-one a Highland reaper, the
other a ploughboy-being crowned. The motto is,
Sem$er armis nunc et industria. The Highland
Society’s hall and chamber form a very symmetrical
and also ornamental edifice, with a beautiful sculpture
of its coat of arms from the chisel of A.. H.
Kitchie. It formerly contained a most interesting
agricultural museum, which has been removed elsewhere.
Simil7.r societies on the same model have
since been established-by England in 1838, and
by Ireland in 1841.
The other edifice referred to, the Sheriff’s Court
Buildings, contiguous to the open arches over the
Cowgate, was erected in 1865-8, from designs
by David Bryce, at a cost of more than A44,ooo. -
It rises from a low basement, with an extensive
and imposing flank to the south, and presents in
its fapde an ornate variety of the Italian style
of architecture ; but within exhibits simply the
usual features of legal courts, with three subordinate
official chambers, unless we except the Society
hall of the solicitors-at-law, a minor legal body in
Edinburgh, which was incorporated by royal charter
in 1780, and only certain members of which are
qualified to act as agents before the Supreme Courts.
Johnstone Terrace, King’s Road, and Castle
Terrace crossing the King’s Bridge, the foundation
stone of which was laid in 1827, unitedly extend
about go0 yards along the southern limb, or southwestern
skirt of the Castle Rock, connecting the
head of the Lawnmarket with the Lothian Road,
at a point about 180 yards south of the west end
of Princes Street. These were formed between
1825 and 1836, to afford improved access to the
Old Town from the westward. They are collectively
called the New Western Approach, and apart
from being a very questionable improvement as
regards artistic taste, have destroyed the amenity
of the Castle Rock, and lessened its strength as a
fortress.
In Johnstone Terrace, to which we shall confine
ourselves for the present, at the eastern end,
resting at the corner of the Old West Bow, is St.
John’s Free Church, a handsome edifice in a mixed
style of early Gothic It was built from designs
furnished by Robert Hamilton in 1847, and is
chiefly famous for its congregation having enjoyed
for some years the ministry of the celebrated Dr.
Guthrie, and of Dr. Williani Hanna, a graduate of
the University of Glasgow, who was ordained to
the ministry of the Presbyterian Church in 1835,
and who is so well known as the author of “Wycliffe
and the Huguenots,” and as the affectionate
biographer of Chalmers.
Westward of this edifice is St. Columba’s Episcopal
church, also a Gothic structure, but of an earlier
style, with a low, square battlemented tower;
built in 1845.
At the cost of about ;GIO,OOO, the Normal School
of the Church of Scotland was built westward of it,
in 1845, and is a large and handsome edifice.
It is called the Normal School, or Church of
Scotland Training College. It is under the control
and management of the Education Committee of
the Church. It is a double college, and like that
in Glasgow, trains both masters and mistresses.
The course of training extends over two years,
and none are admitted as students but those who
have passed a preliminary examination ; but the
committee exercise their discretion in making their ... NORMAL SCHOOL. 295 George IV. Bridge.] highly qualified examiners, on every point of which it takes ...

Vol. 2  p. 295 (Rel. 0.27)

 F e Tolbooth. 124
as the- martlet did in Macbeth’s castle. Of
later years .these booths have degenerated into
mere toy-shops, where the little loiterers chiefly
interested in such wares are tempted to linger, enchanted
by the rich display of hobby-horses, babies,
and Dutch toys, arranged in artful and gay confusion,
yet half scared by the cross looks of the
withered pantaloon by whom these wares are
superintended. But in the times we write of the
hosiers, glovers, hatters, mercers, milliners, and all
of a hearse, it was calculated to impress all beholders
wit!i a sense of what was meant in Scottish law
Situated in the very heart of the ancient city, it
stood at the north-west corner of the parish church
of St. Giles, and so close to it as to leave only a
narrow footway between the projecting buttresses,
while its tall and gloomy mass extended so far
into the High Street, as to leave the thoroughfare
at that part only 14 feet in breadth. “Reuben
Butler,” says Scott, writing ere its demolition had
been decreed, “stood now before the Gothic en-
, by the spudor carccris.”
’
I a collegiate church, and the chapter-house thereof
being of sufficient dimensions, would naturally
lead to the meeting-place of parliaments, though
many were held in Edinburgh long before the
time of James III., especially in the old hall of the
Castle, now degraded into a military hospital.
The first Parliament of James 11. was held in
the latter in 1437 ; in 1438 the second Parliament
was held at Stirling, but in the November of the
same year another in pretonk burgi de Edinburgh,
tnnce of the ancient prison,
which, as is well known to
all men, rears its front in
the very middle of the High
Street, forming, as it were,
the termination to a huge
pile of buildings called the
Luckenbooths, which, for
some inconceivable reason,
our ancestors had jammed
. into the midst of the principzl
stteet of the town,
leaving for passage a narrow
street on the north and on
the south, into which the
. prison opens, a narrow,
cxooked lane, winding betwixt
the high and sombre
walls of the Tolbooth and
the adjacent houses on one
side, and the buttresses and
projections of the old church
upon the other. To give
some gaiety to this sombre
passage (well known by the
name of the Krames), a
number of little booths or
shops, after fhe fashion of
who dealt in the miscellaneous wares now termed
haberdashers’ goods, were to be found in this narrow
alley.”
By the year 156r the Tolbooth, or Preforium
burgi de Edinburgi, as it is named in the early Acts
of the Scottish Parliament, had become ruinous,
and on the 6th of February Queen Mary wrote a
letter to the magistrates, charging the Provost to
take it down at once, and meanwhile to provide
accommodation elsewhere for the Lords of Session.
Since the storm of the Reformation the Scottish
revenues had been greatly impaired ; money
and materials were alike
JOHN DOWIE. (After h-uy.)
cobblers’ stalls, are plastered, as it were, against
the Gothic projections and abutments, so that it
seemed as if the traders had occupied with
nests-bearing about the same proportion to the
building-every buttress and coign of vantage,
scarce ; hence the magistrates
were anxious, if possible,
to preserve the old
building ; accordingly a new
onewas erected, entirelyapart
froin it, adjoining the southwest
corner of St. Giles’s
church, and the eastern portion
of t!ie old Tolbooth
bore incontestable evidence
of being the work of an age
long anterior to the date of
Queen Mary’s letter, and the
line of demarcation between
the east and west ends of the
edifice is still apparent in all
views of it. The more
ancient portion, which had
on its first floor a large and
deeply-embayed square window,
having rich Gothic
niches on each side, is supposed
to have been at one
time the house of the Pravost
of St. Giles’s church, or some
such appendage to the latter,
while the prebends and
other members of the colleges were accommodated
in edifices on the south side of the church, removed
in 1632 to make way for the present Parliament
House. Thus it is supposed to have been built
about 1466, when James 111. erected St. Giles’s into ... F e Tolbooth. 124 as the- martlet did in Macbeth’s castle. Of later years .these booths have degenerated ...

Vol. 1  p. 124 (Rel. 0.27)

Holyrood.1 THE HOUSEHOLD TROOPS. . 75
’ blew gowns, each having got thirty-five shillings in
a purse, came up from the abbey to the great
church, praying all along for His Majesty. Sermon
being ended, His Grace entertained all the nobles
and gentlemen with a magnificent feast and open
table. After dinner the Lord Provost and Council
went to the Cross, where was a green arbour
loaded with oranges and lemons, wine running
liberally for divers hours at eight conduits, to the
great solace of the indigent commons there. Having
drunk all the royal healths, which were seconded
by great guns from the castle, sound of trumpets
and drums, volleys from the Trained Bands, and
joyful acclamations from the people, they plenti-
‘ fully entertained the multitude. After which, my
Lord Commissioner, Provost, and Bailies went to
the castle, where they were entertained with all
sorts of wine and sweatmeats ; and returning, the
Provost countenancing all neighbours that had put
up bonfires by appearing at their fires, which
jovialness continhed, with ringing of bells and
shooting of great guns, till 12 o’clock at night.” .
In October, 1679, the Duke of Albany and
York, with his family, including the future queens,
Mary and Anne, took up his residence at Hdyrood,
where the gaiety and brilliance of his court
gave great satisfaction. The princesses were easy
and affable, and the duke left little undone to win
the love of the people, but the time was an unpropitious
one, for they were at issue with him on
matters of fxith ; yet it is clearly admitted by
Fountainhall that his birthday was observed more
cordially than that of the king. The duke golfed
frequently at Leith. “ I remember in my youth,”
wrote Mr. William Tytler, “ to have conversed with
an old man named Andrew Dickson, a golf-club
maker, who said that when a boy he used to carry
the duke’s golf-clubs, and run before him to announce
where the balls fell.”
The sixteen companies of the Trained Bands
attended the duke’s amval in the city, and sixty
selected men from each company were ordered “ to
attend their royal highnesses, apparelled in the
best manner,’’ and the latter were banqueted in
the Parliament House, at the cost of A5231 13s.
sterling. The brilliance of the little court wa:
long remembered after the royal race were in
hopeless exile. One of the most celebrated
beauties of its circle was the wife of Preston oi
Denbrae, who survived till the middle of the lasl
century. In the Cupar burial register this entr)
occurs concerning her :-“ Buried a I st December,
1757, Lady Denbrae, aged 107 years.”
The duke and duchess are said to have beer
early warned of the haughty punctilio of thf
Scottish noblesse by a speech of General Dalzell
of Binns, whom the former had invited to
line at the palace, when Nary d’Este, as a
laughter of the ducal-prince of Modena, declined
to take her place at table with a subject.
r‘Madam,’’ said the grim veteran, “I have
lined at a table, where your father must have stood
at my back !” In this instance it is supposed
:hat he alluded to the table of the Emperor of
Zermany, whom the Duke of Modena, if summoned,
must have attended as an officer of the
lousehold.
The same commander having ordered a guardsman
who had been found asleep on his post at the
?alace to be shot, he was forgiven by order of
;he duke.
In August, 1681, one of the grandest funerals
:ver seen in Scotland left Holyrood-that of the
High ChanceIlor, the Duke of Rothes, who died
:here on the 26th July. The account of the pro-
:ession fills six quarto pages of Amot’s ‘‘ History,”
md enumerates among the troops present the
Scots Foot Guards, a train of Artillery, the Scots
Fusiliers, and Horse Guards of the Scottish army.
1$ April, 1705, John, the great Duke of Argyle,
took up his residence at the palace as Commissioner
to the Parliament, on which occasion he was
received by a double salvo from the castle batteries,
by the great guns in the Artillery Park, “ and from
111 the men-of-war, both Dutch and Scottish, then
lying in the road of Leith.”
the Life and Horse Guards, Horse Grenadier
Guards, and the two battalions of the Foot Guards,
ceased to do duty at Holyrood, being all removed
permanently to London, though a detachment of
the last named corps garrisoned the Bass Rock
till the middle of the last century.
A strange gladiatorial exhibition is recorded as
taking place on a stage at the back of the palace on
the 23rd of June, 1726, when one of those public
combats then so popular at the Bear Garden in
London, ensued between a powerful young Inshman
named Andrew Bryan (who had sent a drum
through the city defying all men) and a veteran of
Killiecrankie, named Donald Bane, then in his
sixty-second year.
They fought with various weapons, in presence
of many noblemen, gentlemen, and military officers,
for several hours, and Bryan was totally vanquished,
after receiving some severe wounds from
his unscathed antagonist.
The annual ball of the Honourable Company
of Hunters at Holyrood, begins to be regularly
chronicled in the Edinburgh papers about this
In 1711 the Scottish Household troops, viz., - ... THE HOUSEHOLD TROOPS. . 75 ’ blew gowns, each having got thirty-five shillings in a purse, came up ...

Vol. 3  p. 75 (Rel. 0.27)

nearly to the muzzle with musket-balls was depressed
to sweep it, and did so with awful effect.
According to the historian of the “ Troubles,”
twenty men were blown to shreds. Weddal had both
thighs broken, and Somerville, with a few who were
untouched, grovelled close under the wall, where
Ruthven, who recognised him as an old Swedish
comrade, besought him to retire, adding, “ I derive
no pleasure in the death of gallant men.” Of the
whole escalade only thirty-three escaped alive, and
of these many were wounded, a result which
cooled the ardour of the besiegers; but after a
three months’ blockade, finding his garrison few,
and all suffering from scurvy, and that provisions
and ammunition were alike expended, on the 18th
September, after
a blockade of
five months in
all, during which
1,000 men had
been slain, he
marched outwith
the honours of
war (when so ill
with scurvy that
he could scarcely
walk) at the head
.of seventy men,
with one drum
beating, one
standard flying,
matches lighted,
2nd two pieces
.of cannon, with
balls in their
muzzles and the
port-fires blazing at both ends. They all sailed for
England in a king‘s ship. Ruthven fought nobly
for the king there, and died at a good old age in
1651, Earl of Forth and Brentford. Argyle, the
Dictator of Scotland, in the autumn of 1648 invited
Oliver Cromwell to Edinburgh, and entertained
him with unwonted magnificence in the
great hall of the Castle ; afterwards they held many
meetings in Lady Home’s house, in the Canongate,
where the resolution to take away the king’s
fife was discussed and approved of, for which the
said Dictator afterwards lost his head.
The next important event in the history of
5‘ The steep, the iron-belted rock,
Where trusted lie the monarchy’s last gems,
The sceptre, sword, and crown that graced the brows
Since Fergus, father of a hundred kings,”
I was in the days of Cromwell.
Scotland, after the coronation of Charles II., that I
On tidings reaching
the former was advancing north at the head of an
army, the Parliament ordered the Castle to be put
in a state of defence. There were put therein a
select body of troops under Colonel Walter
Dundas, 1,000 bolls of meal and malt, 1,000 tons
of coal, 67 brass and iron guns, including Mons
Meg and howitzers, 8,000 stand of arms, and a
vast store of warlike munition.
According to the superstition of the time the
earth and air all over Scotland teemed with strange
omens of the impending strife, and in a rare old
tract, of 16j0, we are told of the alarm created in
the fortress by the appearance of a “horrible
apparition ” beating upon a drum.
On a dark night the sentinel, under the shadow
of the gloomy
half-moon, was
alarmed by the
beating of a
drum upon the
esplanade and
the tread of
marching feet, on
which he fired
his musket. Col.
Dundas hurried
forth, but
could see nothing
on the bleak
expanse, the site
of the now demolished
Spur.
The sentinel was
truncheoned,
and another put
in his Dlace. to
COVENANTERS’ FLAG.
(Fmnz tAe Altts~rrm ofthe societu of Antiq~n&~ d.yco*la&.)
A I whom the same thing happened, and he, too, fired
his musket, affirming that he heard the tread
of soldiers marching to the tuck of drum. To
Dundas nothing was visible, nothing audible but
the moan of the autumn wind. He took a
musket and the post of sentinel. Anon he heard
the old Scots march, beaten by an invisible
drummer, who came close up to the gate; then
came other sounds-the tramp of many feet and
clank of accoutrements ; still nothing was visible,
till the whole impalpable array seemed to halt
close by Dundas, who was bewildered with consternation.
Again a drum was heard beating the
English, and then the French march, when the
alarm ended ; but the next drums that were beaten
there were those of Oliver Cromwell.
When the latter approached Edinburgh he
found the whole Scottish army skilfully entrenched
parallel with Leith Walk, its flanks protected by ... to the muzzle with musket-balls was depressed to sweep it, and did so with awful effect. According to the ...

Vol. 1  p. 54 (Rel. 0.27)

vi OLD APU'D NEW EDINBURGH.
CHAPTER XXII.
ST. ANDREW SQUARE.
PAGE
St. Andrew Sq-Lst .of Early R e s i d e n u t Bomwlaski-Miss Gordon of CLuny-SconiSh W d m ' Fund-Dr. A. K. Johnstoo
--Scottish Provident Institution-House in which Lord Bmugham was Bom-Scottish Equitable Society-Charteris of Amisfield-
Douglas's Hotel-Sk Philip Ainslie-British Linen Company-National Bank--Royal Baulc-The Melville and Hopetoun Monuments
-Ambm's Tavern. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . I66
CHAPTER XXIII.
CHARLOTTE S Q U A R E ,
Charlotle Sq-Its Early OccuPantgSu John Sinclair, B a r t - b o n d of that Ilk-Si Wdliam Fettes-Lard chief Commissioner Adam
-Alexander Dimto-St. George'r Church-The Rev. Andrew Thomson-Prince ConSmt's Memorial-The Parallelogram of the first
New Town. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . -172
CHAPTER XXIV.
ELDER STREET-LEITH STREET-BROUGHTON STREET.
Elder Street--Leith Street-The old "Black BuU"-Margarot-The Theatre Royal-Its Predecessors on the same Site-The Circus-
C o d s Rooms-The Pantheon-Caledonian Thoaue--Adelphi Theatre-Queen's Theatre and Open House-Burned and Rebuilt-
~ t . wary's chapel-~ishop Cameron . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .176
CHAPTER XXV.
THE VILLAGE AND BARONY OF BROUGHTON.
Bmghton-The Village and Barmy-The Loan-Bmughton first mentioned-Feudal Superio+Wttches Burned-Leslie's Headquarters
-Gordon of Ellon's Children Murdered-Taken Red Hand-The Tolbooth of the Burgh-The Minute Books-Free Burgews-
Modern Ch& Meted in the Bounds of the Barony . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .r80
CHAPTER XXVI.
THE NORTHERN NEW TOWN.
Picardy PI-Lords Eldm and CDig-Su David Milm--Joho AbcrcmmbitLord Newton--cOmmissioner Osborne-St. PauPs Church
-St. George's Chapel-Wib Douglas, Artist-Professor Playfair-Gcned Scott of BellencDrummond Place-C K. Sharpe of
Hoddam-Lard Robertson-Abercmmbie Place and Heriot Row-Miss Femer-House in which H. McKenzie died-Rev. A. Aliin
-Great King Street-Sir R Chrii-Sir WillLm Hamilton-Si William Allan--Lord Colonsay, Lc. . . . . . . . 185
CHAPTER XXVII.
THE NORTHERN NEW TOWN (codu&d).
AdrnLal Fairfax-Bishop Terrot-Brigadier Hope-Sir T. M. Brisbam-Lord Meadowbank-Ewbank the R.S.A-Death of Professor
Wilson-Moray Place and its Distria-Lord President Hope-The Last Abode of Jeffrey-Bamn Hume and Lord Moncrieff-
Fom Street-Thomas Chalmers, D.D.-St. Colme Street-Cap& Basil Hall--Ainslie Place-Dugald Stewart-Dean Ramsay-
Great Stuart Slreet--Pmfessor Aytwn--Mk Graharn of DuntrooPLord Jerviswoodc . . . . . . . . . . I98
CHAPTER XXVIII.
THE WESTERN NEW TOWN-HAYMARKET-DALRY-FOUNTAINBRIDGE.
Maithd Street and Shandwick Place-The Albert Institute--Last Residence of Sir Wa'ta Smtt in Edinburgh-Lieutenant-General
DundatMelville Street-PatricL F. Tytler--Manor Piace-St. M q ' s Cathedral-The Foundation Ud-Its Si and Aspxt-
Opened for Srrsice--The Copstone and Cross placed on the Spire-Haymarket Station-Wmta Garden-Donaldson's Hospital-
Castle Te-Its Churches-Castle Barns-The U. P. Theological Hall-Union Canal-Fkt Boat Launched-Dalry-The Chieslies
-The Caledoniau Dstillery-Foun&bridg=-Earl Grey Street-Professor G:J. Bell-The Slaughter-ho-Baii Whyt of Bainfield
-Nd British India Rubber Works-Scottish Vulcanite CompanpAdam Ritchie . . . . . . . . . . . . Z q ... OLD APU'D NEW EDINBURGH. CHAPTER XXII. ST. ANDREW SQUARE. PAGE St. Andrew Sq-Lst .of Early R e s i d e n u t ...

Vol. 4  p. 388 (Rel. 0.27)

256 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Cowgate.
Mr. Andrew Anderson, printer to the King’s most
Excellent Majesty, for Mr. Andrew Symson, and
which must unhesitatingly be pronounced to be
superior in elegance to almost any other doors
given to modem houses either in Edinburgh or in
London. On a frieze between the mouldings is a
legend in a style of lettering and orthography which
speaks of the close of the fifteenth century :-
GIF . YE . DEID . AS , YE . SOULD . YE
MYCHT . HAIF . AS ,,YE , VULD,
In modem English, ‘If we died as we should, we
might have as we would.’ There is unfortunately
no trace of the man who built the house and put
upon it this characteristic apophthegm; ,but it is
known that the upper floors were occupied about
(before?) 1700 by the worthy Andro Syrnson, who
having been ousted from his charge as an episcopal
minister at the Revolution, continued to make a
living here by writing and printing books.”
Symson had been curate of Kirkinner,inGalloway,
a presentation to him by the earl of that title, and
was the author of an elaborate work, and mysterious
poem of great length, issued from his printinghouse
at the foot of the Horse Wynd,- entitled,
“Tripatriarchicor; or the lives of the three patriarchs,
Abraham, Isaac, and Jacob, extracted forth of
are to be sold by him in the Cowgate, near the
foot of the Hose Wynd, Anno Dom. 1699.”
The Horse Wynd which once connected the
Cowgate with the open fields on the south of the
city, and was broad enough for carriages in days
before such vehicles were known, is supposed to
have derived its name from an inn which occupied.
the exact site of the Gaelic church which was
erected there in 1815, after the building in the
Castle Wynd was abandoned, and which ranked
as a quoad suoa parish church after 1834, though
it was not annexed to any separate territory. It
was seated for 1,166, and cost ;t;3,000, but was
swept away as being in the line of the present
Chambers Street. ,
COLLEGE WYND. (From a Drawinf 6y Willinffl Channing.) ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Cowgate. Mr. Andrew Anderson, printer to the King’s most Excellent Majesty, for Mr. ...

Vol. 4  p. 256 (Rel. 0.27)

MARSHAL STAIR. 105 Lady Stair’s closol
House of Lords and Court of Session. In support
of what he stated, Dundonald, in a letter to
that he made a vow never again to take any species
of drink, unless it had first passed through her
hands; and this vow he kept religiously till the
day of his death, which took place on the 9th
April, 1747, at Queensberry House in the Canongate,
when he was in his seventy-fifth year. He
was General of the Marines, Governor of Minorca,
Colonel of the Greys, and Knight of the Thistle.
He was buried in the family vault at Kirkliston,
and his funeral is thus detailed in the Scots Magazine
for 1747 :-
when the procession began, as a signal to the
garrison in the Castle, when the flag was half
hoisted, and minute guns fired, till the funeral was
clear of the city.
With much that was irreproachable in her character,
Lady Stair was capable of ebullitions of temper,
and of using terms that modem taste would deem
objectionable. The Earl of Dundonald had stated to
the Duke of Douglas that Lady Stair had expressed
her doubts concerning the birth of his nephewa
much-vexed question, at this time before the
THE LAWNMARKET, FROM ST. GILES’S, 1825. 
I. Six bLton men, two and two. 2. A niourning
coach with four gentlemen ushers and the
Earl’s crest. 3. Another mourning coach with
three gentlemen ushers, and a friend carrying the
coronet on a velvet cushion. 4. Six ushers on
foot, with bgtons and gilt streamers. 5. The
corpse, under a dressed canopy, drawn by six
dressed horses, with the Earl‘s achievement, within
the Order of the Thistle. 6. Chief mourners
in a coach and six. 7. Nine mourning coaches,
each drawn by six horses. 8. The Earl’s body
coach empty. 9. Carriages of nobility and gentry,
in order of rank”
A sky-rocket was thrown up in the Canongate
14 ... STAIR. 105 Lady Stair’s closol House of Lords and Court of Session. In support of what he stated, ...

Vol. 1  p. 105 (Rel. 0.27)

Holyrood.] ROYAT, MARRIAGES. 55
with the Dukes of Savoy and Burgundy. She
landed at Leith amid a vast concourse of all
classes of the people, and, escorted by a bodyguard
of 300 men-at-arms, all cap-d+e, with
the citizens also in their armour, under Patrick
Cockburn of Nevtbigging, Provost of Edinburgh
and Governor of the Castle, was escorted to the
monastery of the Greyfriars, where she was warmly
welcomed by her future husband, then in his
twentietb year, and was visited by the queenmother
on the following day.
The week which intervened between her arrival
and‘her marriage was spent in a series of magnificent
entertainments, during which, from her great
beauty and charms of manner, she won the devoted
affection of the loyal nobles and people.
A contemporary chronicler has given a minute
account of one of the many chivalrous tournaments
that took place, in which three Burgundian nobles,
two of them brothers named Lalain, and the thud
HervC Meriadet, challenged any three Scottish
knights to joust with lance, battle-axe, sword, and
dagger, a defiance at once accepted by Sir James
Douglas, James Douglas of Lochleven, and Sir
John Ross of Halkhead, Constable of Renfrew.
Lances were shivered and sword and axe resorted
to with nearly equal fortune, till the king threw
down his truncheon and ended the combat.
The royal marriage, which took place in the
church at Holyrood amid universal joy, concluded
these stirring scenes. At the bridal feast the first
dish was in the form of a boar’s head, painted and
stuck full df tufts of coarse flax, served up on an
enormous platter, with thirty-two banners, bearing
the arms of the king and principal nobles ; and the
flax was set aflame, amid the acclamations of the
numerous assembly that filled the banquet-hall.
Ten years after Holyrood beheld a sorrowful
scene, when, in 1460, James, who had been slain
by the bursting of a cannon at the siege of Roxburgh
on the 3rd August, in his thirtieth year, was
laid in the royal vault, “with the teares of his
people and his hail1 army,” says Balfour.
In 1467 there came from Rome, dated zznd
February, the bull of Pope Paul II., granting, on
the petition of the provost, bailies, and community
of the city, a con~mission to the Bishop of Galloway,
“et dilectojZio Abbafi Monasterii Sancta Cmcis mini
viuros de Rdynburgh,” to erect the Church of St.
Giles into a collegiate institution.
Two years afterwards Holyrood was again the
scene of nuptial festivities, when the Parliamen!
met, and Margaret of Norway, Denmark, and
Sweden, escorted by the Earl of Arran and a
gallant train of Scottish aad Danish nobles, landed
at Leith in July, 1469. She was in her sixteenth
year, and had as her dowry the isles of Orkney
and Shetland, over which her ancestors had hitherto
claimed feudal superiority. James III., her
husband, had barely completed his eighteenth
year when they were married in the abbey church,
where she was crowned queenconsort. ‘‘ The marriage
and coronation gave occasion to prolonged
festivities in the metropolis and plentiful congratulations
throughout the kingdom. Nor was the
flattering welcome undeserved by the queen ; in the
bloom of youth and beauty, amiable and virtuous,
educated in all the feminine accomplishments of
the age, and so richly endowed, she brought as
valuable an accession of lustre to the court as of
territory to the kingdom.”
In 1477 there arrived “heir in grate pompe,”
says Balfour, “Husman, the legate of Pope
Xystus the Fourth,” to enforce the sentence of
deprivation and imprisonment pronounced by Hjs
Holiness upon Patrick Graham, Archbishop of St.
Andrews, an eminent and unfortunate dignitary of
the Church of Scotland. He was the first who
bore that rank, and on making a journey to Rome,
returned as legate, and thus gained the displeasure
of the king and of the clergy, who dreaded his
power. He was shut up in the monastery of Inchcolm,
and finally in the castle of Lochleven. Meanwhile,
in the following year, William Schivez, a
great courtier and favourite of the king, was
solemnly consecrated in Holyrood Church by the
papal legate, from whose hands he received a pall,
the ensign of archiepiscopal dignity, and with great
solemnity was proclaimed ‘‘ Primate and Legate of
the realm of Scotland.” His luckless rival died
of a broken heart, and was buried in St. Serf‘s
Isle, where his remains were recently discovered,
buried in a peculiar posture, with the knees drawn
up and the hands down by the side.
In 1531, when Robert Cairncross was abbot,
there occurred an event, known as “ the miracle of
John Scott,” which made some noise in its time.
This man, a citizen of Edinburgh, having taken
shelter from his creditors in the sanctuary of Holyrood,
subsisted there, it is alleged, for forty days
without food of any kind.
Impressed by this circumstance, of which some
exaggerated account had perhaps been given to
him, James V. ordered his apparel to be changed
and strictly searched. He ordered also that he
should be conveyed from Holyrood to a vaulted
room in David‘s Tower in the castle, where he was
barred from access by all and closely guarded.
Daily a small allowance of bread and water were
placed before him, but he abstained from both for ... ROYAT, MARRIAGES. 55 with the Dukes of Savoy and Burgundy. She landed at Leith amid a vast concourse ...

Vol. 3  p. 55 (Rel. 0.27)

9d OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [The Castle HX
one going plump down a vent they set up a shout
of joy. Sir David laughed, and entreated the
father of the lads ‘‘ not to be too angry ; he and
his brother,” he added with some emotion, “when
CANNON BALL IN WALL OF nowE IN CASTLE KILL.
living here at the same age, had indulged in precisely
the same amusement, the chimneys then, as
now, being so provokingly open to attacks, that
there was no resisting the temptation.” From
the Bairds of Newbyth the house passed to the
Browns of Greenbank, and from them, Brown’s
Close, where the modern entrance to it is situated,
On the same side of the street Webster‘s Close
served to indicate the site of the house of Dr.
Alexander Webster, appointed in 1737 to the
Tolbooth church.. In his day one of the most
popular men in the city, he was celebrated for his
wit and socid qualities, and amusing stories are
still told of his fondness for claret With the a s
sistance of Dr. Wallace he matured his favourite
scheme of a perpetual fund for the relief of
widows and children of the clergy of the Scottish
Church; and when, in 1745, Edinburgh was in
possession of the Jacobite clans, he displayed a
striking proof of his fearless character by employing
all his eloquence and influence to retain the
people in their loyalty to the house of Hanover.
He had some pretension to the character of a poet,
2nd an amatory piece of his has been said to rival
-the effusions of Catullus. It was written in allusion
to his mamage with Mary Erskine. There is
one wonderfully impassioned verse, in which, after
describing a process of the imagination, by which
’he comes to think his innamarata a creature of more
. derives its name.
than mortal purity, he says that at length he clasps
her to his bosom and discovers that she is but a
woman after all !
‘‘ When I see thee, I love thee, but hearing adore,
I wonder and think you a woman no more,
Till mad with admiring, I cannot contain,
And, kissing those lips, find you woman again ! ”
He died in January, 1784.
Eastward of this point stands a very handsome
old tenement of great size and breadth, presenting
a front of polished ashlar to the street, surmounted
by dormer windows. Over the main entrance to
Boswell’s Court (so named from a doctor who resided
there about the close of the last century)
there is a shield, and one of those pious legends
so peculiar to most old houses in Scottish burghs.
0. LORD. IN. THE. IS. AL. MI. TRAIST. Andthis
edifice uncorroborated tradition asserts to have
been the mansion of the. Earls of Bothwell.
A tall narrow tenement immediately to the west
of the Assembly Hall forms the last ancient building
on the south side of the street. It was built in
1740, by hfowbray of Castlewan, on the site of ‘
a venerable mansion belonging to the Countess
Dowager of Hyndford (Elizabeth daughter of
John Earl of Lauderdale), and from him it passed,
about 1747, into the possession of William Earl of
Dumfries, who served in the Scots Greys and Scots
Guards, who was an aide de camp at the battle of
Dettingen, and who succeeded his mother, Penelope,
countess in her own right, and afterwards, by the
death of his brother, as Earl of Stair. He was succeeded
in it by his widow, who, within exactly a
year and day of his death, married the Hon.
Alexander Gordon (son of the Earl of Aberdeen),
who, on his appointment to the bench in 1784,
assumed the title of Lord Rockville.
He was the last man of rank who inhabited this
stately uld mansion ; but the narrow alley which
gives‘access to the court behind bore the name
of Rockville Close. Within it, and towards the
west there towered a tall substantial edifice once
the residence of the Countess of Hyndford, and
sold by her, in 1740, to Henry Bothwell of Glencome,
last Lord Holyroodhouse, who died at his
mansion in the Canongate in 1755.
The corner of the street is now terminated by
the magnificent hall built in 1842.3, at the cost
of &16,000 for the accommodation of the General
Assembly, which sits here annually in May, presided
over by a Commissioner, who is always a
Scottish nobleman, and resides in Holyrood Palace,
where he holds royal state, and gives levCes in the
gallery of the kings of Scotland. The octagonal
... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [The Castle HX one going plump down a vent they set up a shout of joy. Sir David ...

Vol. 1  p. 90 (Rel. 0.27)

Edinburgh Cad:.] CORONATION OF CHARLES I. 51
and long it was since Edinburgh had been
the scene of anything so magnificent. Every
window was crowded with eager faces, and every
house was gay with flowers, banners, and tapestry.
*‘ Mounted on a roan horse, and having a saddle
of rich velvet sweeping the ground, and massive with
pasements of gold, Alexander Clark, the Provost,
appeared at the head of the bailies and council to
meet the king, while the long perspective of the
crowded street ( then terminated by the spire of
the Nether Bow) was lined (as Spalding says) by
a brave company of soldiers, all clad in white
satin doublets, black velvet .breeches, and silk
stockings, with hats, feathers, scarfs, and bands.
Thesegallants haddaintymuskets, pikes, and gilded
partisans. Six trumpeters, in gold lace and scarlet,
preceded the procession, which moved slowly from
But most of the assembled multitude looked
darkly and doubtfully on. In almost every heart
there lurked the secret dread of that tampering
with the Scottish Church which for years had been
conspicuous.
Charles, with great solemnity, was crowned king
of Scotland, England, France, and Ireland, by the
Bishop of St. Andrews, who placed the crown upon
his head; and on the 18th July he left Edinburgh
on his return to London. Under the mal-influence
of the zealot Laud ruin and civil war soon came,
when Episcopacy was imposed upon the people,
A committee of Covenanters was speedily formed
at Edinburgh, and when the king’s commissioner
arrived, in 1638, he found the Castle beset by
armed men. His efforts at mediation were futile ;
and famous old “Jenny Geddes” took the initiative
the- Privy Seal;
Morton the Treasuw’s golden mace,with its globe of
sparkling beryl ; the York and Norroy English kingsat-
arms with their heralds, pursuivants, and trumpeters
in tabards blazing with gold and embroidery;
Sir James Balfour, the Scottish Lion king, preceding
the spurs, sword, sceptre, and crown, borne
by earls. Then came the Lord High Constable,
riding, with ,his blton, supported by the Great
Chamberlain and Earl Marshal, preceding Charles,
who was arrayed in &robe of purple velvet once
worn by James IV., and having a foot-cloth embroidered
with silver and pearls, and his long train
upborne by the young Lords Lorne, Annan, Dalkeith,
and Kinfauns Then came the Gentlemen
Pensioners, marching with partisans uplifted ; then
the Yeomen of the Guard, clad in doublets of
russet velvet, with the royal arms raised in embossed
work of silver and gold on the back and
breast of each coat-each company commanded
by an earL The gentlemen of the Scottish Horse
Guards were all armed d la cuirassier, and carried
swords, petronels, and musketoons.”
of trained Scottish
officers and soldiers, who had been pushing
their fortune by the shores of the Elbe and the
Rhine, in Sweden and Germany, came pouring
home to enrol under the banner of the Covenant ;
a general attack was concerted on every fortress
in Scotland; and the surprise of Edinburgh was
undertaken by the commander of the army, Sir
Alexander Leslie of Balgonie, Marshal of Sweden
under Gustavus Adolphus-a soldier second to
This he achieved successfully on the evening of
the 28th March, when he blew in the barrier gate
with a petard. The Covenanters rushed through
the Spur sword in hand, and the. second gate fell
before their sledge-hammers, and then Haldane of
Gleneagles, the governor, gave up  his sword.
That night ieslie gave the Covenanting lords a
banquet in the hall of the Castle, .w&reon they
hoisted their blue standard with. the miotto, “ For
an oppressed kirk and broken’ Covenant” Montrose’s
regiment, 1,500 strong, replaced the gamson ;
Lord Bdmerbo was appointed goxernor, and many ... Cad:.] CORONATION OF CHARLES I. 51 and long it was since Edinburgh had been the scene of anything so ...

Vol. 1  p. 51 (Rel. 0.26)

Lord Provost?.] THE DUNDAS RIOTS. 281
daughter of the head of the firm. When he took
ofice politics ran high, The much-needed reform
of the royal burghs had been keenly agitated
for some time previous, and a motion on the subject,
negatived in the House of Commons by a
majority of 26, incensed the Scottish public to a
great degree, while Lord Melville, Secretary of
State, by his opposition to the question, rendered
himself so obnoxious, that in many parts of Scotland
he was burned in effigy. In this state of excitement
Provost Stirling and others in authority at
Edinburgh looked forward to the King’s birthdaythe
4th of June, 1792-with considerable uneasiness,
and provoked mischief by inaugurating the festival by
sending strong patrols of cavalry through the streets
at a quick pace with swords drawn. Instead of
having the desired effect, the people became furious
at this display, and hissed and hooted the cavalry
with mocking cries of “Johnnie Cope.” In the
afternoon, when the provost and magistrates were
assembled in the Parliament House to drink the
usual loyal toasts, a mob mustered in the square, and
amused themselves after a custom long peculiar to
Edinburgh on this day, of throwing dead cats at
each other, and at the City Guard who were under
arms to fire volleys after every toast.
Some cavalry officers incautiously appeared at this
time, and, on being insulted, brought up their men
to clear the streets, and, after considerable stonethrowing,
the mob dispersed. Next evening it
re-assembled before the house of Mr. Dundas in
George Square, with a figure of straw hung from a
pole. When about to burn the effigy they were
attacked by some of Mr. Dundas’s friends-among
others, it is said, by his neighbours, the naval hero
of Camperdown, and Sir Patrick Murray of
Ochtertyre. These gentlemen retired to Dundas’s
house, the windows of which were smashed by the
mob, which next attacked the residence of the
Lord Advocate, Dundas of Amiston. On this it
became necessary to bring down the 53rd Re$-
ment from the Castle ; the Riot Act was read, the
people were fired on, and many fell wounded, some
mortally, who were found dead next day in the
Meadows and elsewhere. This put an end to the
disturbances for that night ; but on Wednesday
evening the mob assembled in the New Town with
the intention of destroying the house of Provost
Stirling at the south-east corner of St. Andrew
Square, where they broke the City Guards’ sentry
boxes to pieces. But, as an appointed signal, the
ancient beacon-fire, was set aflame in the Castle,
the Bind frigate sent ashore her marines at Leith,
and the cavalry came galloping ih from the eastward,
an which the mob separated finally.
By this time Provost Stirling had sought shelter
In the Castle from the mob, who were on the point
Jf throwing Dr. Alexander Wood (known as Lang
Sandy) over the North Bridge in mistake for him.
For his zeal, however, he was made a baronet of
Great Britain. The year 1795 was one of great
listress in the city ; Lord Cockbum tells us that
16,000 persons (about an eighth of the population)
were fed by charity, and the exact quantity of food
each family should consume was specified by public
proclamation. In 1793 a penny post was established
in Edinburgh, extending to Leith, Musselburgh,
Dalkeith, and Prestonpans. Sir James
Stirling latterly resided at the west end of Queen
Street, and died in February, 1805.
Sir William Fettes, Lord Provost in 1800 and
1804, we have elsewhere referred to ; but William
Coulter, a wealthy hosier in the High Street, who
succeeded to the civic chair in 1808, was chiefly remarkable
for dying in office, like Alexander Kina
i d thirty years before, and for the magnificence
with which his funeral obsequies were celebrated.
He died at Morningside Lodge, and the cortkge
was preceded by the First R E. Volunteers, and
the officers of the three Regiments of Edinburgh
local militia, and the body was in a canopied
hearse, drawn by six horses, each led by a groom in
deep mourning. On it lay the chain of office, and
his sword and sash as colonel of the volunteers.
A man of great stature, in a peculiar costume,
bore the banner of the City. When the body was
lowered into the grave, the senior herald broke and
threw therein the rod of office, while the volunteers,
drawn up in a line near the Greyfriars’ Church,
fired three funeral volleys.
Sir John Marjoribanks, Bart., Lord Provost in
1813, was the son of Marjoribanks of Lees, an
eminent wine merchant in Bordeaux, and his
mother was the daughter of Archibald Stewart, Lord
Provost of the city in the memorable ’45. Sir John
was a partner in the banking-house of Mansfield,
Ranisay, and Co., and while in the civic chair was
the chief promoter of the Regent Bridge and Calton
Gaol, though the former had been projected by Sir
James Hunter Blair in 1784 When the freedom
of thedty was given to Lord Lynedoch, “the gallant
Graham,” Sir John gave h k a magnificent dinner,
on the 12th of August, I815-two months after
Waterloo. There were present the Earl of Morton,
Lord Audley, Sir David Dundas, the Lord Chief
Baron, the Lord Chief Commissioner, Sir James
Douglas, Sir Howard Elphinstone, and about a
hundred of the most notable men in Edinburgh,
the freedom of which was presented to Lord
Lynedoch in a box of gold ; and at the conclusion ... Provost?.] THE DUNDAS RIOTS. 281 daughter of the head of the firm. When he took ofice politics ran high, The ...

Vol. 4  p. 283 (Rel. 0.26)

‘745.1 THE CASTLE BLOCKADE WITHDRAWN. 331
Livingstone’s Yard, where a Highlander was
assassinated by a soldier, who crept towards him
with a pistol. The same night a party of the 47th
made a sally against the same post, and captured
Captain Robert Taylor and thirty privates.
On the morning of the 4th Preston commenced
a wanton and destructive bombardment, chiefly in
the direction of James’s Court, and continued it till
dusk, when, “led by Major Robertson, a strong
party, with slung muskets, sallied with spades and
axes to the Castle Hill, where they formed a trench
fourteen feet broad and sixteen deep, midway
between the gate and the reservoir. From the
breastwork formed by the de‘bris that night zoo
muskets, besides field pieces, continued to blaze
upon the city, in unison with the heavy 32-pounders,
which from the lofty batteries above swept the
entire length of the High Street with round shot,
grape, and canister. Many persons were killed
and wounded; but the following night the Same
operations were renewed with greater vigour.
Under this tremendous fire the 47th (then numbered
as the 48th) made another sally, pillaged all the
houses in their vicinity, and, after obtaining a
supply of bread and ale, and several barrels of
water from the reservoir, set on fire several houses,
and a deserted foundry, after which they retired
behind their trench. Many of the poor citizens
who attempted to extinguish the flames were killed,
for once more the batteries opened with greater
fury than ever. The glare of the burning houses,
the boom of so many field and battery guns, the
hallooing of the soldiers, the crash of masonry and
timber as chimneys and outshots came thundering
down on all sides, together with the incessant roar
of zoo muskets, struck the inhabitants with such
consternation, that, abandoning their houses, goods,
and chattels, they thought only of saving themselves
by flight. A miserable band of half-clad
and terrified . fugitives, bearing their children, their
aged parents, their sick and infirm friends, to the
number of many hundreds, issued from the Nether
Bow Gate, and fled towards Leith, but were met
midway by the inhabitants of that place, flying
from similar destruction, for at that time the Fox,
and LudZow CastZe, two frigates (whose captains,
from the Roads, had heard the cannonading, and
seen the blaze of the conflagration) were hauled
close in-shore, and lay broadside towards Leith,
and with a villainous cruelty-for which English
hostility towards Scotland was no apology-were
raking and bombarding the streets with the most
fatal effects. . When the fugitives met ‘all was
perplexity and dismay ; the unhappy citizens stood
still, wringing their hmds, and exe,crating the cruel
necessities of war.’ Fodteen days after, the Pox
was wrecked on the rocks of Dunbar, when Captain
Edmond Beavor and all his crew perished.”
The Highlanders maintained their posts without
Bmching amid all this peril and consternation, and
at five o’clock next evening, in defiance of field
and battery guns, led by their officers, and inspired
by their pipers, they stormed the breastwork by one
wild rush,.sword in hand, driving in the garrison,
which retired firing by platoons; but the capture
was made with such rapidity that the Prince lost.
only one officer and twenty privates. As the
trench was too exposed, it was abandoned. Several
balls went through the Luckenbooths, and many
lodged in the walls of the Weigh-house, where they
were found on its demolition in 1822 j and Charles
Edward, seeing the misery to which Preston ex-.
posed the people, generously withdrew the blockade;
and thus ended the last investment of the
Castle of Edinburgh ; and it was said to be about
this time that he made the narrow escape from,
capture in the Provost’s house in the West Bow.
An act of hostility was committed by General,
Preston on the z 1st September, when, overhearing
some altercation in the dark at the West Port,
where the Highland guard made some delay about.
admitting a lady in a coach drawn by six horses,
he ordered three guns to be loaded with grape,.
depressed, and fired. Though aimed at random,
the coach was pierced by several balls, and its fair
occupant, Mrs. Cockburn, authoress of the modern
version of the ‘:Flower$ of the Forest,” had a
narrow escape, while Willkm Earl of Dundonald,.
captain in Forbes’s Foot, who rode by her side,
had his horse shot under him. At that moment,
hlrs. Cockburn, who was returning from Ravelston,
and who was a keen Whig, had in her pocket a
burlesque parody on one cif Prince Charles’s proclamations,
to the air of ‘‘ Clout the Cauldron.”
Another hostile act was committed when the
Highland army, now increased to double its first
strength, was reviewed on the Lipks of Leith prior
to the march for England, when the guns from the
Argyle Battery compelled Charles to change the
scene of his operations to the Links of Musselburgh,
at a time when the Forth was completely
blocked up by ships of war. On the 30th the
Prince slept at Pinkie House, and “on the 31st
he commenced his memorable invasion of England,
with an army only six thousand in number, but onein
rivalry and valour. They departed in three
columns ; at the head of the third Charles marched
on foot, clad in the Highland garb, with his clay--
more in his hand, and a target slung over his left
s!ioulder.” ... THE CASTLE BLOCKADE WITHDRAWN. 331 Livingstone’s Yard, where a Highlander was assassinated by a soldier, ...

Vol. 2  p. 331 (Rel. 0.26)

the ancient ruby ring which the kings of Scotland
wore at their coronation. It was last used by the
unhappy Charles I., and, after all its wanderings
with his descendants, is now in its old receptacle,
together with the crown, sceptre, sword of state,
and the golden mace of Lord High Treasurer.
The mace, like the sceptre, is surmounted by a
great crystal beryl, stones doubtless of vast antiquity.
The " great beryl " was an amulet which
[Edinburgh Castle.
with the like number of diamonds and sapphires
alternately, and the points tipped with great pearls;
the upper circle is elevated with ten crosses floree,
each adorned in the centre with a great diamond
betwixt four great pearls placed in the cross, one
and one, and these crosses floree are interchanged
with ten high flews de fix, all alternately with the
great pearls below, which top the points of the
second small circle. From the upper circle proceed
cage, the regalia now lie on a white marble table
in the crown-room, together with four other memorials
of the House of Stuart, which belonged
to the venerable Cardinal York, and were deposited
there by order of King William in 1830. These
are the golden collar of the Garter presented to
James VI. by Elizabeth, with its appendage the
George; the order of St. Andrew, cut on an onyx
and having on the reverse the badge of the Thistle,
which opens with a secret spring, revealing a beau-
The ancient crown worn by Robert I. and his
successors underwent no change till it was closed
with four arches by order of James V., and it is
thus described in the document deposited with the
Regalia in the crown-room, in 1707 :-
"The crown is of pure gold, enriched with
many precious stones, diamonds, pearls, and curious
enamellings. It is composed of a fillet which
goes round the head, adorned with twenty-two
large precious stones. Above the great circle there
THE REGALIA OF SCOTLAND. ... ancient ruby ring which the kings of Scotland wore at their coronation. It was last used by the unhappy ...

Vol. 1  p. 72 (Rel. 0.26)

urgh Castle.] THE ROYAL LODGING. 77
for woodwork in the “ Gret Ha’ windois in the
Castell, gret gestis and dowbill dalis for the myd
’ chalmer, the king’s kechin, and the New Court
kechin in David‘s Toure,” and for the Register
House built in 1542 by “John Merlyoune,” who
first paved the High Street by order of James V.
On the east side of the square is the old palace,
or royal lodging, in which many stirring events
have happened, many a lawless deed been done,
where the longest line of sovereigns in the British
Isles dwelt, and manv have been born and
gorgeous landscape is spread out, reaching almost
to the ancient landmarks of the kingdom, guarded
on the far east by the old keep of Craigmillar, and
on the west by Merchiston Tower.” Besides the
hall in this edifice there was another in the fortress ;
for among the items of the High Treasurer’s accounts,
in 1516, we find for flooring the Lord’s
James VI. was unable to take with him to England
-lay so long hidden from view, and where they are
now exhibited daily to visitors, who number several
thousands every meek. The room was greatly
improved in 1848, when the ceiling was repaired
with massive oak panelling, having shields in bold
relief, and a window was opened to the square.
Two barriers close this room, one a grated door of
vast strength like a small portcullis.
In this building Mary of Guise died in 1550,
and a doomay, bearing the date of 1566, gives
1 have died. It is a handsome edifice, repaired so
~ lately as 1616, as a date remains to show ; but its
octagonal tower, square turrets and battlements,
’ were probably designed by Sir James Hamilton
of Finnart, the architect to James V. A semioctagonal
tower of considerable height gives access
to the strongly vaulted and once totally dark room
EDINBURGH, FROM THE KING’S BASTION, 1825. (After EwJank.) ... Castle.] THE ROYAL LODGING. 77 for woodwork in the “ Gret Ha’ windois in the Castell, gret gestis and ...

Vol. 1  p. 77 (Rel. 0.26)

222 OLD ‘AND NEW EDINBURGH. [West Port.
prehending the main street of the West Port (the
link between Fountainbridge and the Grassmarket),
the whole of Lauriston from the Corn-market and
foot of the Vennel to the Main Point, including
Portland Place on the west, and to Bruntsfield
Links on the east, including Home and Leven
Streets.
In IIGO John AbbotofKelso grantedtoLawrence,
the son of Edmund of Edinburgh, a toft situated
between the West Port and the Castle, on the left
of the entrance into the city. In this little burgh
there were of old eight incorporated trades, deriving
their rights from John Touris of Inverleitk
Many of the houses here were roofed with thatch
in the sixteenth century,
and the barriergate
by which the whole
of the district was cut
off from the city was
milt in 1513, as a port
in the ‘,F’lodden wall.
Some gate may, however,
have existed previously,
as Balfour in
his “Annales,” tells that
the head of Robert Graham,
oneof the assassins
of James I., in 1437,
“was sett ouer the West
Port of Edinburgh ;”
and in I 5 I 5 the head of
Peter Moffat, “ane
greit swerer and thief,”
was spiked in the same
place, after the reins
of government were
that every man in the city “be reddy boddin for
weir,” in his best armour at ‘‘ the jow of the common
bell” for its defence if necessary. Nearly
similar orders were issued concerning the gates in
1547, and the warders were to be well armed
with jack, steel helmet, and halberd or Jedmood
axe, finding surety to be never absent from their
In 1538 Mary of Guise made her first entry by
the West Port on St. Margaret’s day, “ with greit
trivmphe,” attended by all the nobility (Diurnal of
OCC.). There James VI. was received by “ King
Solomon ” on his first state entry in 1579 ; and by
it Anne of Denmark entcred in 1590, when she was
posts. (Ibid.)
HIGHRIGGS HOUSE, 1854. (Afler P Drawing by Ihr Aidkor.)
assumed by John Duke of Albany. (“ Diurnal of
Occurrents.”)
In the same year it was ordained by the magistrates
and council that only three of the city gates
were to be open daily, viz., “the West Port, Nether
Bow, and the Kirk-of-Field-and na ma. -4nd
ilk port to haif twa porteris daylie quhill my
Lord Govemoure’s hame coming. [Albany was
then on the Borders, putting down Lord Home’s
rebellion.] And thir porteris suffer na maner of
person on hors nor fute, to enter within this toune
without the President or one of the bailies knaw
of their cuming and gif thame licence. And the
said personis to be convayit to thair lugings be one
of the said porteris, swa that gif ony inconvenient
happenis, that thair hoste niycht answer for thame as
efferis.” (Burgh Records.) It was also ordained
that a fourth part of the citizens should form a
watch every night till the return of Albany, and
received by a long Latin
oration, while the garrison
in the Castle
“gave her thence a
great volley of shot,
with their banners and
ancient displays upon
the walls ” (‘( Marriage
of James VI.,” Bann.
Club). Here also in
1633, Charles I. at his
grand entrance was
received by the nymph
Edina, and again at the
Overbow by the Lady
Caledonia, both of
whom welcomed him
in copious verse from
the pen, it is said, of
the loyal cavalier and
poet, Drummond of
Hawthornden.
Fifteen years before this period the Common
Council had purchased the elevated ridge of ground
lying south of the West Port and Grassmarket,
denominated the Highriggs, on a part of which
Heriot’s Hospital was afterwards built, and the
most recent extension of the city wall then took
place for the purpose of enclosing it. A portion of
this wall still fomis the boundary of the hospital
grounds, terminating at the head of the Vennel, in
the only tower of the ancient fortifications now
remaining.
In 1648 the superiority of the Portsburgh was
bought by the city from Sir Adam Hepburn for
the sum of 27,500 merks Scots; and in 1661
the king’s stables were likewise purchased for
EI,OOO Scots, and the admission of James Baisland
to the freedom of Edinburgh.
In 1653 the West Port witnessed a curious
, scene, when Lieutenant-Colonel Cotterel, by order ... OLD ‘AND NEW EDINBURGH. [West Port. prehending the main street of the West Port (the link between ...

Vol. 4  p. 222 (Rel. 0.26)

George Street.] THE MASONIC HALL. k5 1
Glasgow Union Bank Company, which dates from
1830; in 1843 the name was changed to the
Union Bank of Scotland. ‘ As was stated by Mr.
Gairdner to the Committee of the House of
Commons on “Banks of Issue” (1874), several
private and public banks were incorporated from
time to time in the Union: notably, the Thistle
Bank of Glasgow in 1836, the Paisley Union Bank
iri 1838, the Ayr Bank, the Glasgow Arms and
Ship Gank in 1843, Sir William Forbes and J.
Hunter and Co. in the same year. The Aberdeen
Bank was also absorbed in the Union system in
1849, and the Perth Banking Company in 1857.
The special general ;meeting €or “ considering
whether or not this bank should be registered
under the Companies Act, 1862,” was called on
the 10th December, 1862, but the bank had in
fact %een so registered on the 3rd November of
the same year. At the meeting, Sir John Stuart
Forbes, Bart., was in the chair, and it was unanimously
agreed “that it is expedient that the
bank register itself 9s an unliniited company under
the Companies Act, 1862, and that the meeting do
now assent to the. bank being so registered, and
authorise the directors to take all necessary steps
for carrying the motion into effect.”
Opposite the Northern Club-3 mere plain
dwelling-house-is the Masonic Hall and offices
of the grand lodge of Scotland, No. 98, George
Street. The foundation &one was laid on the
24th of June, 1858, with due masonic honours, by
the Grand Master, the Duke of Athole, whose
henchman, a bearded Celt of vast proportions, in
Drumrnond tartan, armed with shield and claymore,
attracted great attention. The streets were lined
by the i7th Lancers and the Staffordshire Militia.
The building was finished in. the following year,
snd, among many objects of great masonic interest,
contains the large picture of the “ Inauguration of
Robert Bums as Poet Laureate of the Grand
Lodge of Scotland,” by William Stewart Watson,
a deceased artist, nephew of George Watson, first
president of the Scottish Academy, and cousin of
the late Sir John Watson-Gordon. He was an ardent
Freemason, and for twenty years was secretary
to the Canongate Kilwinning Lodge.
His picture is a very valuable one, as containing
excellent portraits of many eminent men who took
part in that ceremony. He was the same artist
who designed the embellishments of the library at
Abbotsford, at the special request of Sir Walter
Scott, to whom he was nearly related.
In this office are the rooms and records of the
Grand Secretary, and there the whole general
business of the’ entire masonic body in Scotland is
transacted.
Three fine bronze pedestrian statues decorate
this long and stately street.
The first of these statues, at the intersection of
George Street and Hanover Street, to the memory
of George IV., is by Chantrey, and was erected in
November, 183r. It is twelve feet in height, on a
granite pedestal of eighteen feet, executed by Mr.
Wallace. The largest of the blocks weighed
fifteen tons, and all were placed by meatls of some
of the cranes used in the erection of the National
Monument.
The second, at the intersection of Frederick
Street, is ’also by Chantrey, to the memory of
William Pitt, and was erected in 1833.
The third, at the intersection of Castle Street, on
a red granite pedestal, was erected in 1878 to the
memory of Dr. Chalmers, and is by the hand of
Sir John Steel.
CHAPTER XX
QUEEN STREET.
The Philosophical Iostitution-House of Bamn Ode-New Physicians’ Hall-Sir James Y. Simpron, M.D.-The House of hf-
Wilson-Sir John Leslic-Lord Rockville-Sir Jams Grant of Grant-The Hopetoun Rooms-Edinburgh Educational Institution
for Ladies.
QUEEN STREET was a facsimile of Princes Street,
but its grouping and surroundings are altogether
different.
Like Princes Street, it is a noble terrace, but not
overlooked at a short distance by the magnificent
castle and the Dunedin of the Middle Ages. It
looks northward pver its whole length on beautiful
gardens laid out in shrubs and flowers, beyond
which lie fair white terraces and streets that far
excel itself-the assembled beauties of another new
town spreading away to the wide blue waters of the
Firth of Forth. How true are the lines of Scott !- ... Street.] THE MASONIC HALL. k5 1 Glasgow Union Bank Company, which dates from 1830; in 1843 the name was ...

Vol. 3  p. 151 (Rel. 0.25)

of the most brilliant conversationalists and the
kindest-hearted of men in Edinburgh.
Among the prizes competed for are the gold
THE HIGH SCHOOL.
medal was first awarded." The appendix to
Stevens's history of the famous school contains a
most interesting list of 180 boys, medallists or
city for Greek in the Rector's class ; the Ritchie
gold medal, presented in 1824, by Mr. William
Ritchie, for twenty-three years a master of the
school; the Macdonald, a third class medal,
given by Colonel John Macdonald, of the regiment
of Clan Alpine, son of the celebrated Flora
Macdonald, and presented for the first time in
1824.
The College Bailie silver medal for writing, the
personal gift of the gentleman holding that office
for the year, was first presented in 1814, and for
the last time in 1834.
"The head boy or dux of the school, at the yearly
examination, till about the close of the eighteenth
century," says Dr. Steven, '( usuallyreceived from the
city, as a prize, a copy of the best edition of one of
the classics. This was prior to I 794, when a gold
63
a gold medal given by Lieut.-Colonel Peter
Murray, Adjutant-General in Bengal in 1794, and
the name of which was changed to the Macgregor.
institution in the kingdom has ever sent forth SO
many pupils who have added fresh laurels to the
glory of their country.
In it is still preserved as a relic the carved
stone which was over the principal entrance of the
first school from'1578 to 1777. It bears within a
panel the triple castle of the city, with the initials
I. S., and, under the thistle, the date and legend :-
MVSIS : RESPUBLICA
FLORET. 1578.
Above t6is in a pediment is an imperial cronm,
with two thistles and the initials I. R. 6.
The High School Club, composed of old
scholars, was first instituted in 1849.
At a great entertainment given in the city to Mr.
(afterwards Lord) Brougham, on the 25th of April,
1825, presided over by Henry (afterwards Lord)
Of the distinguished men in every department of
life who conned their studies in the class-rooms, even
of the new High School, it is impossible to attempt ... the most brilliant conversationalists and the kindest-hearted of men in Edinburgh. Among the prizes competed ...

Vol. 3  p. 113 (Rel. 0.25)

Chongrte.] A LEGEND BY SIR WALTER SCOT‘I’. 5 -
when the Castle of Duiiglass was blown up by
gunpowder.
An old house at the head of the Canongate, on
the north side, somewhere in the vicinity of Coull’s
Close, but now removed, was always indicated as
being the scene of that wild story which Scott
relates in his notes to the fifth canto of ‘‘ Rokeby,”
and in his language we prefer to give it here.
He tells us that ‘( about the beginning of the
eighteenth century, when the large castles of the
Scottish nobles, and even the secluded hotels,
hke those of the French noblesse, which they
had each 40,000 merks Scots as a fortune, their
uncle, the Earl of Argyle, being cautioner for the
payment, “for relief whereof he got the wadset of
Lochaber and Badenoch” Lady Jean, a third
daughter, was also married in the ensuing January,
with a fortune of 30,000 merks, to Thomas, Earl
of Haddington, who perished in the following year,
bearers insisted upon his being blindfolded. The
request was enforced by a cocked pistol, and
submitted to ; but in the course of the discussion
he conjectured, from the phrases employed by the
chairmen, and from some parts of their dress not
completely concealed by their cloaks, that they
were greatly above the menial station they had
assumed. After many turnings and windings the
chair was carried upstairs into a lodging, where his
eyes were uncovered, and he was introduced into
a bed-room, where he found a lady nen-ly delivered
of an infant, and he was commanded by his
possessed in Edinburgh, were sometimes the scenes.
of strange and mysterious transactions, a divine of
singular sanctity was called up at midnight to pray
with a person at the point of death. This was no
unusual summons ; but what followed was alarming-
He was put into a sedanchair, and after he had
been transported to a remote part of the town the
EAST END OF HIGH STREET, NETHER BOW, AND WEST END OF CANONGATE. (Frmn G d w ofRofhiemay’r Mu!.)
48, Blackfriars Wynd : 49, l’odrig‘s Wynd ; 50, Gay’s Wynd ; 51, St. Mary’s Wynd : 58, Leith Wynd ; 8, Suburbs of the Canongate : g, High
Street : 14, The Nether How ; h, The Nether-bow Port; 18, The Flesh Stocks in the Goongate. ... A LEGEND BY SIR WALTER SCOT‘I’. 5 - when the Castle of Duiiglass was blown up by gunpowder. An old ...

Vol. 3  p. 5 (Rel. 0.25)

17451 MACDONALD OF TEINDREICH. 333
landers, after their retreat from England, were besieging
Stirling, Lord Tweeddale wrote to General Guest,
stating that they meant to take the capital again.
On this, the Edinburghers at once held a solemn
council of war, and valiantly resolved to defend the
city; and once more all their plate and valuables
were committed to the care of General Guest. It was
take, Hawley, who had served as a major at
Sheriffniuir, and always expressed contempt 'for
the Highlanders, marched with fourteen battalions,
besides cavalry and artillery, to Falkirk, where his
army was routed as completely as that of Cope
had been, and all his guns were taken, save one
brought off by the 4th Regiment.
CHARLES EDWARD IN HIS LATER YEARS.
(From a Partrait Sy Oeim Humjhy, R.A., iake?a at Fhrme, 1776.)
arranged that a store of provisions should be
immediately laid in, that the cannon should be
mounted on travelling carriages, that the walls and
gates should be more completely fortified, that a
corps of really resolute soldiers should be embodied;
and again arms were issued to the
Seceders, and all who required them ; but on hearing
that Charles had actually made a requisition
for horses to draw his battering train, their courage
evaporated a second time, and all ideas of fighting
were abandoned; but the arrival of General
Hawley's army relieved them from immediate
apprehension.
Erecting an enormous gallows in the Grassmarket,
whereon to hang all prisoners he might
In the Castle he lodged his sole trophy, the
brave Major Donald Macdonald of Teindreich,
who struck the first blow in the revolt at the
Spean Bridge, and who had been captured in the
smoke at Falkirk. He was brought in bound with
ropes,'and kept in a dungeon till he was sent in
chains to Carlisle, to be butchered with many
others. He was a handsome man, and bore his
sufferings with great cheerfulness.
" It was principle, and a thorough conviction of
its being my duty to God, my injured king and
oppressed country," said he, "which induced me
to take up arms under the standard of his Royal
Highness Charles Prince of Wales, and I solemnly
declare I had no bye views in drawing my sword in
' ... MACDONALD OF TEINDREICH. 333 landers, after their retreat from England, were besieging Stirling, Lord ...

Vol. 2  p. 333 (Rel. 0.25)

306 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Wardie.
In this district evidences have been found of the
luck,” and it sometimes came ; to propitiate him,
his moderate demands became, ere he died, an
established claim. Hence it would seem that now
to say to a crew at sea, ‘(John Brounger ’s in your
head-sheets,” or ‘‘ OR board of you,” is sufficient to
cause her crew to haul in the dredge, ship their
oars, and pull the boat thrice round in a circle, to
break the evil spell, and enough sometimes to make
the crew abandon work.
But apart from such fancies, the industrious
fishermen of Newhaven still possess the noble
qualities. ascribed to them by the historian of
Leith, in the days when old Dr. Johnston was
their pastor : “It was no sight of ordinary interest
to see the stem and weather-beaten faces of these
hardy seamen subdued by the influence of religious
feeling into an expression of deep reverence and
humility, before their God. Their devotion seemed
. - I mansion, pleasantly situated on the sea-shore, about
to have acquired an additional solemnity of character,
from a consciousness of the peculiarly
hazardous nature of their occupation, which,
throwing tKem immediately and sensibly on the
protection of their Creator every day of their lives,
had im5ued them with a deep sense of gratitude to
that Being, whose outstretched arm had conducted
their little bark in safety through a hundred storms.”
In the first years of the present century there
was a Newhaven stage, advertised daily to start
from William Bell’s coach-office, opposite the Tron
church, at ten am., three and eight p-m.
We need scarcely add, that Newhaven has long
been celebrated for the excellence and variety of
its fish dinne&, served up in more than one oldfashioned
inn, the best known of which was, perhaps,
near the foot of the slope called the Whale
Brae.
CHAPTER XXXVI.
WARDIE, TRINITY, AND GRANTON.
Wardie Muir-Human Remains Found-Banghalm Bower and Trinity Lodge-Christ Church, Trinity-Free Church, Granton Road-Piltoa
-Royston--Camline Park-Grantan-The Piers and Harbours-Morton’s Patent Slip.
WARDIE MUIR must once have been a wide, open,
and desolate space, extending from Inverleith and
Warriston to the shore of the Firth; and from
North Inverleith Mains, of old called Blaw Wearie,
on the west, to Bonnington on the east, traversed
by the narrow streamlet known as Anchorfield
Bum.
Now it is intersected by streets and roads,
studded with fine villas rich in gardens and teeming
with fertility; but how waste and desolate the
muiland must once have been, is evinced b i those
entries in the accounts of the Lord High Treasurer
of Scotland, with reference to firing ,Mons Meg,
in the days when royal salutes were sometimes
fired with shotted guns !
On the 3rd of July, 1558, when the Castle
batteries saluted in honour of the Dauphin’s marriage
with Queen Mary, Mons Meg was fired by
the express desire of the Queen Regent; the
pioneers were paid for ‘I their jaboris in mounting
Meg furth of her lair to be schote, and for finding
and carrying her bullet from Wardie Muir to the
Castell,” ten shillings Scots.
Wardie is fully two miles north from the Castle,
and near Granton.
native tribes. Several fragments of human remains
were discovered in 1846, along the coast of
Wardie, in excavating the foundations for a bridge
of the Granton Railway ; and during some earlier
operations for the same railway, on the 27th
September, 1844 a silver and a copper coin of
Philip 11. of Spain were found among a quantity
of huiiian bones, intermingled with sand and shells;
and these at the time were supposed to be a
memento of some great galleon of the Spanish
Armada, cast away upon the rocky coast,
In the beginning of the present century, and
before the roads to Queensferry and Granton
were constructed, the chief or only one in this
quarter was that which, between hedgerows and
trees, led to Trinity, and the principal mansions
near it were Bangholm Bower, called in the
Advertiser for 1789 “ the Farm of Bangholms,”
adjoining the lands of Wamston, and which was
offered for lease, with twelve acres of meadow,
“lying immediately westward of Canonmills Loch;’’
Lixmount House, in 1810 the residence of Farquharson
of that ilk and Invercauld; Trinity
Lodge, and one or two others. The latter is
described in the Advertiser for 1783 as a large ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Wardie. In this district evidences have been found of the luck,” and it sometimes ...

Vol. 6  p. 306 (Rel. 0.25)

I08 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. . [Craigcrook
Local tradition makes Craigcrook the scene of a
murder, but this is a mistake, though there was
such a crime connected with it.
Mr. John Strachan before-mentioned-whose
charitable bequest is still known as “the Craigcrook
Mortification”-in 1707 had a house in
the High Street of Edinburgh, which was kept
for him by a servant named Helen Bell, and as
she was l&ft in town a good deal by herself, “as
other young women in her situation will do, she
two bottles and the large house-key to carry, that
her burden might be lightened,
No doubt she had been intending to take the
old road that led by the Dean to Craigcrook, but
on coming to a narrow and difficult part of the
way, called the Three Step, at the foot of the
Castle Rock, they threw her down and cruelly slew
her by blows of a hammer.
In a confession made subsequently by Thomson,
they hurried back to town, with the intention of
RAVELSTON HOUSE.
admitted young men to see her in her master’s
house.”
On Hallowe’en night, in the year of the Union,
two young craftsmen came to visit her-William
Thomson and John Robertson-whom she chanced
to inform that on Monday morning, the second
morning thereafter, she had to go westward to Craigcrook,
leaving the house in the High Street empty.
At five in the morning of the 3rd of November,
the poor girl locked up the house and set forth on
her short journey, little foreseeing it was the last
she would take on earth. As she was traversing
the dark and silent streets, Thomson and Robertson
joined her, saying they were going a part of the
way, and would escort her. On this she gave them
ransacking Mr. Strachan’s house for money or
valuables, and on passing through the Grassmarket
they swore, mutually, to give their bodies and souls
to the devil if either should inform on the other in
the event of being captured.
“In the empty streets,” says the “Domestic
Annalist of Scotland,” quoting Wood‘s “ History of
Cramond,” “in the dull grey of the morning,
agitated by the horrid reflections arising from their
barbarous act and its probable consequences, it is
not very wonderful that almost any sort of hallucination
should have taken possession of these
miserable men. It was stated by them that on
Robertson proposing that their engagement should
be engrossed in a bond, a man stated up between ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. . [Craigcrook Local tradition makes Craigcrook the scene of a murder, but this is a ...

Vol. 5  p. 108 (Rel. 0.25)

Braid.] THE LANDS OF BRAID. 41
the city on the south, and directly overlook
Morningside. Their greatest altitude is 700 feet
According to one traditional legend, these hills
were the scene of “ Johnnie 0’ Braidislee’s ” woeful
hunting, as related in the old ballad.
exposed to more than one
military visitation from
the garrison in Edinburgh
Castle. Knox’s secretary
records that on the 25th
May twelve soldiers came
to Braid, when the laird
was at supper, and
rifled the house of the
miller. Braid appeared,
but was treated with contempt,
and was told that
they would bum the house
about his ears if he did
not surrender to Captain
Melville, who was one of
the eight sons of Sir lames
Melville of Raith, and his
lady Helen Napier of Merchiston.
Though called “ a
quiet man,” the wrath of
the laird was roused, and
he rushed forth at the
head of his domestics,
the north bank of the latter stream, which meanders
close to it, and which takes its rise in the bosom
of the Pentlands, near the Roman camp above
Bonally.
It is a two-storeyed villa, with a pavilion roof
CHRIST. CHURCH, MORNINGSIDE.
armed with an enormous two-handed sword, and
cut down one of the soldiers, who fired their hackbuts
without effect, and were eventually put to flight.
In the early part of the eighteenth century Braid
belonged to a family named Brown, and a great
portion of it in the present century had passed into
the possession of Gordon of Cluny.
between the Braid Hills and Blackford, stands the
beautiful retreat called the Hermitage of Braid, on
In a romantic, sequestered, and woody dell,
102
and little corner turrets, in that grotesque style of
castellated architecture adopted at Gillespie’s
Hospital, and is evidently designed by the same
architect, though built about the year 1780. It
was the property of Charles Gordon of Cluny,
father of the ill-fated Countess of Stair, the once
beautiful “Jacky Gordon,” whose marriage was
annulled in 1804, after which it frequently formed
her solitary residence. It afterwards became the
property of the widow of the late John Gordon of ... THE LANDS OF BRAID. 41 the city on the south, and directly overlook Morningside. Their greatest altitude ...

Vol. 5  p. 41 (Rel. 0.25)

334 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Cunie.
’ for provisions, and the enemy in confident expectation
of starving them out,asoldier accidentally caught
some fish in his bucket (in the act of drawing water),
which the governor boastingly held out in sight
of the besiegers. On seeing this unexpected store,
the assailants hastily raised the siege, deeming it
hopeless to attempt to starve a garrison that was
so mysteriously supplied.” It is probable that
this episode octurred during the war between the
king’s and queen’s party, which culminated in the
siege of Edinburgh Castle in 1573.
Curriehill Castle, the ancient ruins of which
stand on the opposite bank of the Leith, at a little
distance, and which was the stronghald and ,for
ages the abode of the Skenes, was a place of some
note during that war. Among the six chief places
mentioned as being fortified and garrisoned in the
neighbourhood of Edinburgh are Lennox Tower,
on the loyalists’ or queen’s side, and Curriehill
for the king.
In Crawford of Drumsoy’s “Memoirs of the
Affairs of Scotland,” we find the following, under
date I572 :-
“The siege of Nidderie-Seaton being raised for
the relief of Merchiston, the governor found means
to supply his masters at Edinburgh with some corn
and about fifty or sixty oxen. Those who guarded
the booty mere in their turn taken by the Lairds of
Colington and Curryhill, and imprisoned at Corstorphin.
This galled the loyalists, lest it should
dishearten the governor and garrison of Nidderie;
and to let them see how much they rwented the
loss, the Lord Seaton was sent out with a hundred
horse, who took the Laird of Curryhill out of his
own house, and delivered him to the governor.
The same day he lighted by chance upon Crawford
of Liffnorris, who was coming into Leith, attended
with fifty horse, to assist the Associators. These,
with their leader, were taken without blows, and
were sent next morning to the governor, to keep
Curryhill company, but in a day or two were exchanged
for those at Corstorphin. Seaton, however,
kept the horses to himself, and brought them into
Edinburgh loaded with provisions, which he bought
at a doubleprice from the country people; nor did
the loyalists at any time take so much as one
bushel of corn which they did not pay for, though
they often compelled the owners to sell it.”
Malleny and Baberton, in Cume, are said to
have been the property of James VI. ; and Alexander
Brand, to whom he gave the latter house,
was a favourite of his.
Eastward of, Kinleith, at the north-east end of
the Pentland range, are the remains of a camp
above a pass, through which General Dalyell
marched with the Grey Dragoons and other horse
to attack the Covenanters at Rullion Green, in
1666.
The following is the rofl of the heritors of Currie
Parish in 1691 :-
Lord Ravelrig. Sir John Maitland of Ravelrig
was a senator of the College of Justice, 1689-17 10;
afterward fifth Earl of Lauderdale, who early joined
the Revolution party.
Robert Craig of Riccarton.
John Scott of Malleny.
Alexander Brand of Baberton
Charles Scott of Bavelaw.
Lawrence Cunningham of Balerno, whose family
William Chiesley of Cockburn.
About the niiddle of the last century an English
company endeavoured to work the vein of copper
ore at Eastmiln, but failing to make it profitable,
the attempt was abandoned.
Currie was celebrated in former days as the residence
of several eminent lawyers ; and, curiously
enough, the principal heritors were at one time
nearly all connected with the Court of Session.
Of these, the most eminent were the Skenes of
Curriehill, father and son, said, in the “ Old Statistical
Account,” to have been connected with the
royal family of Scotland.
John Skene of Curriehill came prominently forward
as an advocate in the reign of James VI. In
the year 1578 he appears in a case before the
Privy Council, connected with Hew Campbell of
Loudon, and others, as to the Provostship of the
town of Ayr, and in the following year as Prolocutor
for the magistrates of Stirling, in a case against the
craftsmen of that burgh.
In the year 1588 he was elected to accompany
Sir James Melville of Halhill, the eminent Scottish
memorialist, on a mission to the Court of Denmark.
“I told his Majesty” (James VI.), he records,
“that I would chuse to take with me for a lawyer
Mr. John Skeen. His Majesty said he judged
there were many better lawyers. I said he was best
acquainted with the German customs, and could
make them long harrangues in Latin, and that he
was good, true, and stout, like a Dutchman. Then
his Majesty was content that he should go with
me.”
This mission was concerning the marriage of
Anne of Denmark, and about the Orkney Isles.
In 1594 Sir John Skene of Curriehill was appointed
Lord Clerk Register, and in 1598 he seems
to have shared that office with his son James.
Three years before that he appears to have been an
Octavian-zs the eight lords commissioners, who
was for three centuries resident there. ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Cunie. ’ for provisions, and the enemy in confident expectation of starving them ...

Vol. 6  p. 334 (Rel. 0.24)

102 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Coltbridge;.
from Inverleith Row, and a third from the narrow
lane leading to East Warriston House. In the
grounds are spacious catacombs, above which
is a balustraded terrace with a tastefvl little
mortuary chapel; and there are many elegant
monuments. The chief, though the simplest of
these, is the stone which mqks the spot where,
on.the slope of the terrace, lie, with those of some
of his family, the remains of Sir James Young
Simpson, Bart., recalling the sweet lines which were
among the last things he wrote :-
‘‘ Oft in this world’s ceaseless strife,
When flesh and spirit fail me,
I stop and think of another life,
Where ills can never assail me.
Where my weaned arm shall cease its fight,
My heart shall cease its sorrow ;
And this dark night change for the light
’ Of an everlasting morrow.”
Near this grave a little Greek temple (designed
by his grandson John Dick Peddie, M.P.) marks
the last resting-place of the venerable Rev. James
. Peddie, who was so long minister of the Bristo
Street Church. Near the eastern gate, under a cross,
lie the remains of Alexander Smith, author of the
*‘ Life Drama,” and other poems, which attracted
much attention at the time of their publication.
“It claims special notice,” says a writer in the
Scofsmaa, “as one of the most artistic and appropriate
works of the kind to be seen in our cemeteries.
It is in the form of an Iona or West High-.
land cross of Binney stone, twelve feet in height, set
in a massive square base four feet high. In the centre.
of the shaft is a bronze medallion of the poet, by
William Brodie, R.S.A., an excellent work of art,
and a striking likeness, above which is the inscription
‘ Alexander Smith, poet and essayist,’
and below are the places and dates of his birth
and death. The upper part of the shaft and the.
cross itself are elaborately carved in a style of‘
ornament which, though novel in design, is strictly
characteristic. For the design of this very striking
and beautiful monument the friends of the poet
are indebted to Mr. James Drummond, R.S.k-a
labour of love, in which artistic skill and antiquarian
knowledge have combined to the production of a
work, which, of its own kind is quite unique, and
commands the admiration of the least instructed”
In another part of the ground is an elegant
reproduction of the “Maclean Cross” of Iona,
erected by a member of the family. The grave of‘
Horatio Macculloch, R.S.A., the well-known landscape
painter, is also here, and also that of the Rev.
James Millar, a good, worthy, and pious man, well
known to the whole British army, and remarkable
as being the last Presbyterian chaplain of the Castle
of Edinburgh, who died in 1875, in about the.
thirtieth year of his ministry, and was interred herewith
military honours.
~
CHAPTER X.
THE WESTERN NEW TOWN.
Coltbridge-Rosebum House-Traditions of it--Murrayiield-Lord Henderland-Beechwood-General Leslie-The Dundase-RaveIstm-
The Foulises and Keiths-Craigmk-Its first ProprietorSA Fearful Tragedy-Archibald Constable-Lard Jeffrey-Davidson’s Mains-
Lauriston Castle.
COLTBRIDGE, once a little secluded hamlet qn the
Water of Leith, having two bridges, an old one and
a new one, is now a portion of the western New
Town, but is only famoys as the scene of the
amazing panic exhibited in 1745, by Sir John
Cope’s cavalry, under Brigadier Fowke-the 13th
and 14th Dragoons-who fled in great disorder,
on seeing a few Highland gentlemen-said to be
only seven in number-approach them, mounted,
and firing their pistols, while the little force of
Prince Charles Edward was marching along the old
Glasgow road.
Passing the huge edifices called the Roseburn
Maltings, belonging to the Messrs. Jeffrey, distillers,
consisting of two floors 600 feet in length by 120
in width, for storing ale, a narrow winding path
I leads to the ancient house of Roseburn and theold
Dalry flour mills which now adjoin it.
Small, quaint, and very massively built, with
crowstepped gables and great chimneys, it exhibitsmarks
of very great antiquity, and yet all the history
it possesses is purely traditional. It has two.
door lintels, one of which is the most elaborate
ever seen in Edinburgh, but it has been broken, and
in several places is quite illegible. In the centre
is a shield with the royal arms of Scotland and the:
motto IN DEFENS. There are two other shields,
now defaced; and two tablets, one inscribed thus :-
QVEN. VOU.
VIL. ENTER
AT. CRIST
IS. DVRE
1562. ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Coltbridge;. from Inverleith Row, and a third from the narrow lane leading to East ...

Vol. 5  p. 102 (Rel. 0.24)

IMIPERATC~OERSAI RIT. ITO. CELIO. HADKIANO
ANTONINOA.U G. Pro. PATRIP. ATRIB.
Although the Roman military causeway-o
which some fragments still remain--from Brittano
dunum to Alterva (i.e. from Dunbar ta Cramond
passed close to it, the Castle rock never appear!
to have become a Roman station; and it is suf
ficiently curious that the military engineers of thc
invaders should have neglected such a strong an(
natural fortification as that steep and insulatec
mass, situated as it was in Valentia, one of thei
six provinces in Britain.
Many relics of the Romans have been turnec
up from time to time upon the site of Edinburgh
but not the slightest trace has been found to indicatc
that it was ever occupied by them as a dwelling
place or city. Yet, Ptolemy, in his ? Geography,?
speaks of the place as the Casfrum alaturtz, ??2
winged camp, or a height, flanked on each sid<
by successive heights, girded with interinediatt
valleys.?? Hence, the site may have been a nativt
fort or hill camp of the Ottadeni.
When cutting a new road over the Calton Hill,
in 1817, a Roman urn was found entire; anothei
(supposed to be Roman), eleven and a half inches
in height, was found when digging the foundation
of the north pier ol
the Dean Bridge,
that spans a deep
ravine, through
which the Water ol
Leith finds its way
to the neighbouring
port. In 1782 a
coin of the EmperoI
Vespasian was found
in a garden of the
Pleasance, and is
now in the Museum
of Antiquities ; and
when excavating in ROMAN URN FOUND AT THE DEAN.
(Frwtn th Anfiqnanan Museum.) St. Ninian?s Row, on
the western side of
the Calton, in 1815, there was found a quan?tity of
fine red Samian ware, of the usual embossed character.
In 1822, when enlarging the drain by which
the old bed of the North Loch was? kept dry,
almost at the base of the Castle rock, portions of
ar. ancient Roman causeway were discovered, four
feet below the modem road. Another portion of
a Roman way, composed of irregular rounded
stones, closely rammed together on a bed of
forced soil, coloured with fragments pf brick, was
discovered beneath the foundations of the Trinity
College Church, when it was demolished in 1845.
The portions of it discovered in 1822 included a
branch extending a considerable way eastward
along the north back of the Canongate, towards the
well-known Roman road at Portobello, popularly
known as ? The Fishwives? Causeway.? ? Here,?
says Dr. Wilson, ?we recover the traces of the
Roman way in its course from Eildon to Cramond
and Kinneil, with a diverging road to the importanttown
and harbour at Inveresk, showing beyond
doubt that Edinburgh had formed a Zink between
these several Roman sites.??
Within a few yards of the point where this road
crossed the brow of the city ridge were built into
the wall of a house, nearly opposite to that of
John Knox, two beautifully sculptured heads of
the Emperor Septimius Severus and his wife Julia.
These busts, which Maitland, in his time (I~so),
says were brought from an adjacent building, Wilson
the antiquary conjectures were more probably
found when excavating a foundation; but under
the causeway of High Street, in 1850, two silver
denarii of the same emperor were found in excellent
preservation.
These busts were doubtless some relic of the
visit paid to the colony by Septimius Severus, for
Alexander Gordon, in his ? Itinerarium Septentrionale,?
published in 1726, says :-? About this
time it would appear that Julia, the wife of Severus,
and the greatest part of the imperial family, were
in the country of Caledonia; for Xephilin, from
Dio, mentions a very remarkable occurrence which
there happened to the Empress Julia and the wife
3f Argentocoxus, a Caledonian.??
Passing, however, from the Roman period, many
listant traces have been found of people who
lwelt on, or near, the site of Edinburgh, in what
may be called, if the term be allowable, the preiistoric
period.
In constructing the new road to Leith, leading
iom the centre of Bellevue Crescent, in 1823,
several stone cists, of circumscribed form, wherein
:he bodies had been bent double, were found;
ind these being disposed nearly due east and west,
were assumed, but without evidence, to have been
.he remains of Christians. In 1822 another was
ound in the Royal Circus, buied north and south ;
he skeleton crumbled into dust on being exposed,
ill save the teeth.
During the following year, 1823, several mde
tone coffins were discovered when digging the
oundations of a house in Saxe Coburg Place, near
;t. Bernard?s Chapel. One of them contained two
irns of baked clay, from which circumstance it was
#upposed that this was a place of interment, at the
ieriod when the Romans had penetrated thus far ... RIT. ITO. CELIO. HADKIANO ANTONINOA.U G. Pro. PATRIP. ATRIB. Although the Roman military ...

Vol. 1  p. 10 (Rel. 0.24)

North Bridgt.]
were again seen bivouacking all night, on straw or
pallets, under the portico of the house, or in the
adjacent square, for the purpose of securing seats
for their employers the moment the doors were
open. Again it became a recognised amusement
for peop!e to proceed thither after breakfast to see,
about the time of the box-office unclosing, the
fights that ensued between the liverymen and the
imtable Highland porters.
But in the year 1819 Miss O’Neill quitted the
stage, and became eventually Lady Becher of
Ballygiblio Castle, in the couiity of Cork.
THE WAVERLEY DRAMAS.
which she had to pay yearly as rent and purchase.
money.
Thus one day she was shocked and startled by
a harsh, cold letter, in the usual legal form, arresting
all moneys in her hands until certain claims were
settled, at a time when she had scarcely a penny
wherewith to make payment.
It was at this desperate crisis that Walter Scott
came to the rescue. His Rob Roy, operatically
dramatised, hadalreadyproved a marked success at
Covent Garden, and it was now prepared for the
Edinburgh Theatre, with an excellent cast and much
?49
girl, Miss Elizabeth ONeill, “who seemed designed
by nature to catch the tragic mantle as it fell from
Mrs. Siddons’ shoulders,” appeared in the theatre
in August, ISIg-two months after Waterloo.
The characters in which she always achieved the
greatest success were Juliet, Mrs. Haller, Jane
Shore, and Mrs. Beverley ; and on the occasion of
her first appearance, the old scene of the Siddons
furore was renewed, and porters and livery servants
In 1816 Edmund Kean appeared in Edinburgh,
to startle and delight the people by his vivid
action; then came the elder Matthews, with his
wondrous humour and power of mimicry, and then
Miss Stephens and Mr. and Mrs. Charles Kemble ;
yet with all this excellence the management did
not prosper, and when the season of 1819 opened,
matters seemed so gloomy that it was doubtful if
Mrs. Henry Siddons could collect the L2,ooo
THE OLD 1HEATRE ROYAL. (Fmm a Drawing by T. H. Shfherd.publi~hdin 1829.) ... Bridgt.] were again seen bivouacking all night, on straw or pallets, under the portico of the house, or in ...

Vol. 2  p. 349 (Rel. 0.24)

well worth consideration ; but, interesting as it is, it
need not detain us long here.
In the ? Myrvyian, or Cambrian Archa?ology,? a
work replete with ancient lore, mention is made of
Caer-Eiddyn, or the fort of Edin, wherein dwelt
a famous chief, Mynydoc, leader of the Celtic
Britons in the fatal battle with the Saxons under
Ida, the flame-bearer, at Catraeth, in Lothian, where
the flower of the Ottadeni fell, in 510; and this is
believed to be the burgh subsequently said to be
named after Edwin.
In the list of those who went to the battle of
Catraeth there is record of 300 warriors arrayed in
fine armour, three loricated bands (Le., plated for
defence), with their commanders, wearing torques
of gold, ?three adventurous knights,? with 300 of
equal quality, rushing forth from the summits of
the mighty Caer-Eiddyn, to join their brother
chiefs of the Ottadeni and Gadeni.
In the ?British Triads? both Caer-Eiddyn
(which some have supposed to be Carriden), and
also DinasEiddyn, the city of Eiddyn, are repeatedly
named. But whether this be the city of
Edinburgh it is exceedingly difficult to say; for,
after all, the alleged Saxon denominative from
Edwin is merely conjectural, and unauthenticated
by remote hcts.
From Sharon Turner?s ?Vindication of Ancient
British Poem%,? we learn that Aneurin, whose work
contains 920 lines, was taken prisoner at the battle
of Catraeth,* and was afterwards treacherously slain
by one named Eiddyn; another account says! he
died an exile among the Silures in 570, and that the
battle was lost because the Ottadeni ?had drunk
of their mead too profusely.?
The memory of Nynydac Eiddyn is preserved
a beautiful Welsh poem entitled The Drinking
Iorn,?by Owain, Prince of Powis.
i full of energy.
The poem
?? When the mighty bards of yore
Awoke the tales of ancient lore,
What tide resplendent to behold,
Flashed the bright mead in vase of Gold !
The royal minstrel proudly sung
Of Cambria?s chiefs when time was young;
How, with the drink of heroes flushed,
Brave Catraeth?s lord to battle rushed,
The lion leader of the strong,
And marshal of Galwyiada?s throng ;
The sun that rose o?er Itun?s bay
Ne?er closed on such disastrous day ;
There fell Mynydoc, mighty lord,
Beneath stem Osway?s baneful sword ;
Yet shall thy praise, thy deathless pame,
Be woke on harps of bardic fame,
Sung by the Cymri?s tuneful tmb,
Aneurin of celestial strain.?
DanielWilson,one of the ablest writers on Scottish
ntiquities, says that he thinks it useless ?to follow
le fanciful disquisitions of zealous anticuarians
Zspecting the origin and etymology of Edinburgh ;
: has successively been derived, both in origin and
1 name, from Saxon, Pict, and Gael, and in each
ase With sufficient ingenuity to leave the subject
lore involved than at first? But while on this
ubject, it should be borne in mind that the unirtunate
destruction of the national records by the
waders, Edward I. and Oliver Cromwell, leaves
ie Scottish historian dependent for much of his
iaterial on tradition, oi information that can only
e obtained with infinite labour; though it may
o doubt be taken for granted that even if these
rchives had been preserved in their entirety they
ould scarcely have thrown much, if any, light upon
le que& vexata of the origin of the name of
;dinburgh.
CHAPTER 11.
THE CASTLE OF EDINBURGH.
Of its Origin and remoter History-The Legends concaning it-Ebranke-St. Monena-Defeat of the Saxons by King Bridei--King Ed&-
Ring Grime-The Story of Grime and Benha of Badlieu-The Starting-point of authentic Edinburgh History-SL Mugarct-Her Piety
and vlliaMe Disoosition-Her Chaoel--Ha Dath-Rcstontion of her Oiatary-Her BurLCDonnld Bauc-Khg a v i d L-l?hc Royal
Gardens, afterwp;ds the North Lock
AFTER the departure of the Romans the jnhabitants
of fiorthern Britain bore the designation of Picti,
or Picts; and historians are now agreed that these
were not a new race, but only the ancient Caledonians
under a new name.
The most remote date assigned for the origin
*The famous Cutrail, or Pictsmrk-ditch, is a u wto have had
somc amnection with this battle df cluaeth. (Gdb Cambrrasir. 11.)
of the Castle of Edinburgh is that astounding
announcement made in Stods ?Summarie of
Englyshe Chronicles,? in which he tells us that
?Ebranke, the sonne of Mempricius, was made
ruler of Britayne ; he had, as testifieth Policronica,
Ganfride, and others, twenty-one wyves, of whom
he receyved twenty sonnes and thirty daughters,
which he sent into Italye, there to be maryed to ... worth consideration ; but, interesting as it is, it need not detain us long here. In the ? Myrvyian, or ...

Vol. 1  p. 14 (Rel. 0.24)

3‘6 OLD AKD NEW EDINBURGH. me West Bow.
sorely. Keeping on the defensive, Westerhall
gave way step by step, seeking to gain the advantage
of the ascent, and thus supply the defect ‘of
his stature, which Writes perceiving, he bore in
close upon him hand to hand. Thus they continued
in close and mortal combat for about a
quarter of an hour, “clearing the causeway,” so
that none could venture near them, or leave the
conveyed to their lodgings. Their wounds were
slight, save that which Writes had just received on
his head, from which several pieces of bone came
away. After he was cured, and after the death of
Hugh Lord Somerville, Privy Councillor to James
VI. (an event which occurred in 1597), these combatants
were reconciled, and their feud committed
to oblivion.
ASSEMBLY ROOMS, WEST BOW, LOOKING TOWARDS THE LAWNYARKET.
(F~om a Drawing ay Yawzes Skcnr of RztbicZaw).
shop doors; neither dared any man attempt to
part them, for every thrust and stroke of their
swords threatened all who came near. . .
Westerhall eventually was driven down, fighting
every inch of the way to the foot of the Bow; and,
having on-for riding, probably-a pair of long
black boots drawn close up, was becoming quite
weary, and stepping within a shop door, stood
there on his defence; and then the last stroke
given by Hugh Somerville nearly broke his good
sword, as it struck the stone lintel of the door,
where the mark remained for years after.
“The tome being by this tyme all in an uproar,”
they were separated by a party of halberdiers, and
Eleven years after this, in the month of June,
1605, William Thomson, a dagger-maker in the
Bow, was slain by a neighbour of his own, named
John Waterstone, who, being taken red hand, was
next day beheaded on the Castle Hill. The Earl of
Dunfermline was at that time Provost.
The arched gate at the foot of the first bend in
the Bow is distinctly shown in Rothiemay’s map
(see j. I I 2). Within this and the old city wall, on
the west side, was an ancient timber-fionted tenement,
known as “Lord Ruthven’s Land,” being the
residence of the gloomy and daring Patrick third
Lord Ruthven, whose son was the first Earl of
Gowrie-the same dark and terrible lord who rose ... OLD AKD NEW EDINBURGH. me West Bow. sorely. Keeping on the defensive, Westerhall gave way step by step, ...

Vol. 2  p. 316 (Rel. 0.24)

the end we might pass to Heaven with all this
gear! But fie on the knave Death !-that will
come whether ye will or not; and when he hath
laid on the arrest, then foul worms will be busy
with this flesh, be it ever so fair and tender, and
the silly soul, I fear, shall be feeble, that it can
neither carry with it gold, garnishing, targating,
pearl, nor precious stone.’ In the midst of these
speeches the Laird of Dun came out of the queen’s
HOLYROOD PALACE, THE REGENT MORAY’S HOUSE (ADJOINING THE PALACE, ON THE NORTH), THE ROYAL
GARDENS, AND ANCIENT HOROLOGE. (From U Drawinz6y Bh6,$pu6Zishedh 1826.)
created Duke of Albany, but he looked forward to
wearing the crown. His headstrong, dissolute,
foolish, and in many instances brutal disposition,
soon weakened the affections of the queen, and
her imprudent love for him, which had at one time ,
been so violent and generous, was-especially after
the murder of Rizzio-converted into abhorrence.
The appointment of the latter-said by Rymer to
be a pensioner of the Pope-to the important and
-cabinet, and requested him to go home; nor does
it appear that Mary took any further notice of his
.officious and uncalled - for, interference with her
-marriage.”
Soon after, another mob broke into the chapel
.royal during mass, but was driven out by the Provost,
the Laird of Pitarrow, and others, an event
which led to a futile trial of Knox before the Privy
Council.
Great events now followed each other fast, and
.on the 29th of July, 1565, Mary was married to
her wretched and dissipated cousin, the handsome
Darnley, at Stirling Castle, in which an apartment
.had been fitted up as a Roman Catholic chapel by
David Rizzio.
Three days before this Darnley had been
confidential office of secretary to the queen had
given great offence to the haughty noble$ of
Scotland ; and such was his influence over her, that
it has been more than once supposed that he
was her confessor in disguise, which, could it be
proved, would throw a new light on his history
and that of Mary, by accounting for his influence
over her, and her horror of his murderers. A footnote
to Actq Regia, vol. iv., says that “he was
an old, crabbed, and deformed fellow, and that’twas
his loyalty and sagacity which made him so dear
to the queen.’’ Thuanus too, says that notwithstanding
his mean origin she made him sit at
table with her every day. He certainly fitted up
the chapel for her marriage, and is known to
have had a brother, Joseph, said to be in holy’ ... end we might pass to Heaven with all this gear! But fie on the knave Death !-that will come whether ye will ...

Vol. 3  p. 68 (Rel. 0.24)

Leith.] DEATH OF JAMES 111. 201
1488-he embarked in one of Sir Andrew’s ships
then anchored in the Roads of Leith, and landed
from it in Fifeshire. As the Admiral had been lying
there for some time, intending to sail to Flanders,
the Barons, now in arms against the Crown, spread
a report that James had fled, surprised the castle
of Dunbar, furnished themselves with arms and
ammunition out of the royal arsenal, “ and,” says
Abercrombie, “ overran the three Lothians and
the Merse, rifling and plundering all honest men.”
In April, 1488, the king re-crossed the Forth in
the admiral’s ship, and, marching past Stirling,
pitched his standard near Blackness, where his
army mustered thirty thousand, and some say
forty thousand, strong, but was disbanded after an
indecisive skirmish. Fresh intrigues ensued that
belong to general history; two other armies, in
all amounting to nearly seventy thousand men,
took the field James 111. had no alternative but
to take flight in the ships of Wood, then cruising
in the Forth, or to resort to the sword on the 11th
June, 1488.
His army took up a position near the Bum of
Sauchie, while ‘‘ Sir Andrew Wood, attending to
the fortune of war, sailed up the silver winding of
the beautiful river with the FZmw and YelZow
CaraveZ, and continued during the whole of that
cloudless day to cruise between dusky Alloa and
the rich Carse of Stirling, then clothed im all the
glory of summer.” On the right bank of the river
he kept several boats ready to receive the king if
defeat-as it eventually did-fell upon him, and
he often landed, with his brothers John and Robert
and a body of men, to yield any assistance in his
power.
While attempting to reach the ships James was
barbarously slain, and was lying dead in a mill
that still stands by the wayside, when rumour went
that he had reached the YeZZow Caravd Thus
Wood received a message in the name of the Duke
of Rothesay (afterwards James IV.), as to the truth
of this story; but Sir Andrew declared that the
king was not with him, and refilsed to go on shore,
when invited, without hostages for his own safety.
The Lords Fleming and Seaton came on board
in this capacity, and landing at Leith the admiral
was conducted to the presence of the Prince, who
was then a captive and tool in the hands of the
rebels, and only in his sixteenth year. Wood was
arrayed in handsome armour, and so dignified was
he in aspect, and so much did he resemble the
king his master, that the Prince, who had seen little
of the latter, shed tears, and said, timidly-
‘‘ Sir, are you my father? ”
. Then this true old Scottish mariner, heedless of
123
the titled crowd which regarded him with bitter
hostility, and touched to the heart by the question,
also burst into tears, and said-
“ I am not your father, but his faithful servant,
and the enemy of all who have occasioned his
downfall ! ”
“ Where is the king, and who are those you took
on board after the battle?” demanded several of
the rebel lords.
‘‘ As for the king, I know nothing of him. Finding
our efforts to fight for or to save him vain, my
brother and I returned to our ships.” He added,
says Buchanan, “that if the king were alive he
would obey none but him; ,and that if slain, he
would revenge him ! ”
He then went off to the ships, but just in time
to save the hostages, whom his impatient brothers
were about to hang at the yard-arm. The lords
now wanted the mariners of Leith to arm their
ships, and attack Wood; but, to a man, they
declined.
In the early part of 1489 Henry of England, to
make profit out of the still disturbed state of Scotland,
sent five of his largest ships to waste and burn
the sea-coast villages of Fife and the Lothians ; and
the young James IV., in wrath at these proceedings,
requested Sir Andrew Wood to appear before the
Privy Council and take measures to curb the outrages
of the English.
He at once undertook to attack them ; but James,
as they outnumbered him by three, advised him to
equip more vessels.
‘‘ No: he replied,” ‘‘ I shall only take my own
two-the FZower and the Jl‘ellow Carard.”
Accordingly, .with the first fair wind on a day in
February, he dropped down the Firth, and found
the plunder-laden English vessels hovering off
Dunbar, and which Tytler surmises to have been
pirates, as they came in time of truce. Wood at
once engaged them, and after an obstinate conflict,
of which no details are preserved, he brought them
all prizes into Leith. He presented their captains
to the young king, who now further rewarded him on
the 11th March, 1490, with the lands of Balbegnoth,
the superiority of Inchkeith, the lands of
Dron and Newbyrn ; and by a charter under the
Great Seal, 18th May, 1491, he granted to Sir
Andrew Wood “ license to build a castfe at Largo
with gates of iron as a reward for the great services
done and losses sustained by the said Andrew, and
for those services which there was no doubt he
would yet render.” This castle, fragments of which
yet remain, he appears to have built, with some
adjacent houses, by the hands of English pirates
whom he had captured at sea; and the coat ... DEATH OF JAMES 111. 201 1488-he embarked in one of Sir Andrew’s ships then anchored in the Roads of ...

Vol. 6  p. 201 (Rel. 0.24)

36 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Merchistom
captain named ScougaL
After a hard struggle, during which several were
killed and wounded, they stormed the outworks,
and set them on fire to smoke the defenders out of
the donjon keep ; but a body of the king's men
veyed to Leith, and hanged, while he had a narrow
escape, his horse being killed under him by a shot
from Holyrood Palace, Another conflict of a
more serious nature occurred before Merchiston
on the last day of the same month.
attack by firing forty guns from the Castle of Edinburgh.
The men of Scougal (who were mortally wounded)
fled over the Links and adjacent fields in all
directions, hotly pursued by the Laird of Blairquhan.
On the 10th of the subsequent June the
queen's troops, under George, Earl of Huntly, with
a small train of artillery, made another attack upon
Merchiston, while their cavalry scoured all the
fields between it and Blackford-fields now covered
with long lines of stately and beautiful villas-bringing
in forty head of cattle and sheep. By the time
the guns had played on Merchiston from two till
four o'clock p.m., two decided breaches were made
in the walls. The garrison was about to capitulate,
when the assemblage of a number of people, whom
the noise of the cannonade had attracted, was
mistaken for king's troops ; those of Huntly be,came
party of twenty-four men-at-arms rode forth to
forage. The well-stocked fields in the neighbourhood
of the fortalice were the constant scene of
enterprise, and on this occasion the foragers
collected many oxen, besides other spoil, which
they were driving triumphantly into town. They
were pursued, however, by Patrick Home of the
Heugh, who commanded the Regent's Light
Horsemen. The foraging party, whom hunger
had rendered desperate, contrived to keep their
pursuers, amounting to eighty spears, at bay till
they neared Merchiston, when the king's garrison
issued forth, and re-captured the cattle, the collectors
of which '' alighted from their horses, which they
suffered to go loose, and faught CreauZZ'iee," till succoured
from the town, when the fight turned in
their favour. In this conflict, Home of the Heugh,
Sir Patrick Home of Polwarth, four more gentle ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Merchistom captain named ScougaL After a hard struggle, during which several ...

Vol. 5  p. 36 (Rel. 0.24)

62 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Water of Leith
name doesnot appear in the Baronage) was Sheriff and
Provost of Edinburgh (“Burgh Records”). After him
come five -barons of his surname, before the famous
Sir Simon Preston, also Provost of the city, into
whose mansion, the Black Turnpike, Mary was
thrust by the confederate lords. A son or nephew
of his appears to have distinguished himself in the
Low Countries. He is mentioned by Cardinal
Bentivoglio, in his History,” as ‘‘ Colonel Preston,
a Scotsman,” who cut his way through the German
lines in 1578.
Sir Richard Preston of Craigmillar, Gentleman of
the Bedchamber to JamesVI., K.B., and Constable
of Dingwall Castle, raised to the peerage of Scotland
as Lord Dingwall, was the last of this old
line. He married Lady Elizabeth Butler, only
daughter of Thomas, Earl of Ormond, and widow
of Viscount Theophilim, and was created Earl of
Desmond, in the peerage of Ireland, 1614. He
was drowned on his passage from Ireland to Scotland
in 1628, and was succeeded in the Scottish
honours of Dingwall by his only daughter, Elizabeth,
who became Duchess of Ormond.
The castle and lands of Craigmillar were acquired
in 1661 by Sir John Gilmour, son of John
Gilmour, W.S. He passed as Advocate on the 12th
December, 1628, and on the 13th February, 1666,
became Lord President of the Court of Session,
which, after a lapse of nearly eleven years, resumed
its sittings on the I Ith June. The bold stand
which he made for the luckless Marquis of Argyle
was long remembered in Scotland, to his honour.
His pension was only A500 per annum. He became
a Baron of Exchequer, and obtained a clause
in the Militia Act that the realm of Scotland
should not maintain any force levied by the king
without the consent of the Estates. He belonged
latterly to the Lauderdale party, and aided in procuring
the downfall of the Earl of Middleton. He
resigned his chair in 1670, and died soon after.
He was succeeded by his son, Sir Alexander of
Craigmillar, who was created a baronet in 1668,
in which year he had a plea before the Lords
against Captain Stratton, for 2,000 marks lost at
cards. The Lords found that only thirty-one guineas
of it fell due under an Act of 1621, and ordered
the captain to pay it to thm for the use of the poorp
“ except 6 5 sterling, which he may retain.”
Sir Charles, the third baronet, was M.P. for
Edinburgh in 1737, and died at Montpellier in
‘750.
The fourth baronet, Sir Alexander Gilmour of
Craigmillar, was an ensign in the Scots Foot Guards,
and was one of those thirty-nine officers who, with
800 of their men, perished so miserably in the affair
of St. Cas in 1758.
In 1792 SirAlexanderGilrnour,Bart.,whoin 1765
had been Clerk of the Green Cloth, and M.P. for
Midlothian, 1761-1771, diedat Boulogne in 1792,
when the title became extinct, and Craigmillar devolved
upon Charles Little of Liberton (grandson
of Helen, eldest daughter of the second baronet),
who assumed the surname of Gilmour, and whose
son, Lieutenant-General Sir Dugald Little Gilmour
of Craigmillar, was Major of the Rifle Brigade, or
old 95th Regiment, in the Peninsular War,
Nearly midway between Craigmillar and the
house of Prestonfield, in a flat grassy plain, stands
the quaint-looking old mansion named Peffer Mill,
three storeys high, with crowstepped gables, gableted
dormer windows, and a great circular staircase
tower with a conical roof. It has no particular
history ; but Peffer Mill is said to mean in old
Scoto-Saxon the mill on the dark muddy stream.
Braid‘s Bum flows past it, at the distance of a few
yards
.
CHAPTER VI.
THE VALLEY OF THE WATER OF LEITH.
Lady Sinclair of Dunbeath-Bell’s Mills-Water of Leith Village-Mill at the Dean-Tolbooth then-Old Houxs--The Dean and Poultry
Lands thereof-The Nisbet Family-A Legend-The Dean Village-Belgrave Crescent-The Parish Church-Stewart’s Hospital-
Orphan Hospital-John Watson’s Hospital-The Dean Cemetery-Notable Interments there.
IN No. 16, Rothesay Place, one of the new and
handsome streets which crown the lofty southern
bank of the valley of the Water of Leith, and
overlooks one of the most picturesque parts of it,
at the Dean, there died in 1879 a venerable lady
-a genuine Scottish matron of ‘‘ the old school,”
a notice of whom it would be impossible to omit in
a work like this.
Dame Margaret Sinclair of Dunbeath belonged
to a class now rapidly vanishing-the clear-headed,
gifted, stout-hearted, yet reverent and gentle old
Scottish ladies whom Lord Cockburn loved to. ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Water of Leith name doesnot appear in the Baronage) was Sheriff and Provost of ...

Vol. 5  p. 62 (Rel. 0.24)

Beechwood.] SIR ROBERT DUNDAS OF BEECHWOOD. 105
to the Castle of Edinburgh under a strong escort of
their comrades.
General Leslie, and Lieutenant MacLean the
adjutant, having accompanied this party a little
way out of Glasgow, were, on their return, assailed
by a mob which sympathised with the Highlanders
and accused them of being active in sending
away the prisoners. The tumult increased,
stones were thrown ; General Leslie was knocked
down, and he and MacLean had to seek shelter
these documents were not formally executed, were
confused in their terms, and good for nothing in a
legal sense, Mrs. Rutherford of Edgerstoun very
generously fulfilled to the utmost what she conceived
to be the intentions of her father.
Sir Robert Dundas, Bart., of Beechwood, like the
preceding, figures in the pages of Kay. He was
one of the principal Clerks of Session, and Deputy
Lord Privy Seal of Scotland. He was born in
June, 1761, and was descended from the Dundases
BEECHWOOD.
in the house of the Lord Provost till peace
officers came, and a company of Fencibles. One
of the mutineers was shot, by sentence of a
court-martial. The others were sent to America.
On his way back to Edinburgh General Leslie
was seized with a dangerous illness, and died at
' Beechwood House on the 27th of December,
'794.
No will could be found among the General's repositories
at Beechwood, and it was presumed that
he had died intestate. However, a few days after
the filneral, two holograph papers were discovered,
bequeathing legacies to the amount of L7,ooo
among some of his relations and friends, particularly
.&I,OOO each to two natural daughters. Although
110
of Amiston, the common ancestor of whom was
knighted by Charles I., and appointed to the
bench by Charles 11. Educated as a Writer to
the Signet, he was made deputy-keeper of Sashes,
and in 1820 a principal Clerk of Session. He was
one of the original members of the old Royal
Edinburgh Volunteers, of which corps he was a
lieutenant in 1794. He purchased from Lord
Melville the estate of Dunira in Perthshire, and
succeeded to the baronetcy and the estate of
Beechwood on the death of his uncle General Sir
David Dundas, G.C.B., who was for some time
Commander-in-Chief of the forces. Sir Robert
died in 1835.
A winding rural carriage-way, umbrageous and ... SIR ROBERT DUNDAS OF BEECHWOOD. 105 to the Castle of Edinburgh under a strong escort of their ...

Vol. 5  p. 105 (Rel. 0.24)

THE NISBET$ OF DEAN. 65 The Water of Leith.1
Embosomed among venerable trees, the old
house of a baronial family, the Nisbets of Dean,
stood here, one of the chief features in the locality,
and one of the finest houses in the neighbourhood of
From the Water of Leith village a steep path
that winds up the southern slope of the river‘s
bank on its west side, leads to the high ground
where for ages there stood the old manor-house of
Dean, and on the east the older village of the
same name.
During the reign of James IV., on the r5th
June, 1513, the Dean is mentioned in the Burgh
Records” as one of the places where the pest
existed; and no man or woman dwelling therein was
regard that the farnily-of-Dean is the only family
of that name in Scotland that has right, by consent,
to represent the original family of the name
of Nisbet, since the only lineal male representative,”
and armorial bearings, it was literally a history in
stone of the proud but now extinct race to which
it belonged.
H e n j Nisbet, descended from- the Nisbets of
Dalzell (cadets of the Nisbets of that ilk), who for
many years was a Commissioner to the Parliament
for Edinburgh, died some time before 1608, leaving
three sons : James, who became Nisbet of Craigintinnie,
near Restalrig; Sir William of Dean,
whose grandson, Alexander,. exchanged the lands
THE DEAN HOUSE, 1832. (Aftv a Dravving ay Rolcrl Gibb.)
permitted to enter the city, under pain, if a woman,
of being branded on the cheek, and if a man, of such
punishment as might be deemed expedient.
In 1532 James Wilson and David Walter were
committed prisoners to the Castle of Edinburgh,
for hamesucken and oppression done to David
Kincaid in the village of Deanhaugh.
In 1545 the Poultry Lands near Dean were held
mm qfi& PuZtrie Regim, as Innes tells us in his
Scottish “ Legal Antiquities.”
of Dean with his cousin, Sir Patrick Nisbet, the
first baronet; and Sir Patrick of Eastbank, a Lord
of Session.
The Nisbets of Dean came to be the head of the
house, as Alexander Nisbet records in his System
of Heraldry,” published in I 7 2 z ; soon after which,
he died, by the failure of the Nisbets of that ilk in
his own person-a contingency which led him to’lay
aside the chevron, the mark of fidelity, a mark of
cadency, used formerly by the house of Dean, in ... NISBET$ OF DEAN. 65 The Water of Leith.1 Embosomed among venerable trees, the old house of a baronial family, ...

Vol. 5  p. 65 (Rel. 0.24)

336 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [North Bridge.
from somewhere about Coltbridge, to fill, and run
through the North Loch, which would be of great
advantage to the convenience, beauty, cleanliness,
and healthiness of the town.” ,
In the next paragraph this far-seeing nobleman
suggests the canal between the Forth and Clyde ;
but all that he projected for Edinburgh, by means
of his bridges, has. been accomplished to the full,
and more than he could ever have dreamt of
I in 1763, and a proper foundation sought for the
erection, which, however, is only indicated by
two dotted parallel lines in Edgar‘s plan of the
city, dated 1765, which “shew ye road along ye
intended bridge,” which was always spoken of as
simply a new way to Leith.
The first stone was deposited on’ the 1st of
October, 1763, and Kincaid relates that in 1794
“some people very lately, if not yet alive, have posi-
PALACE OF MARY OF GUISE, CASTLE HlLL. (Fmm a Drawing6y W. B. Scotf).
The North Bridge, as a preliminary to the
formation of the New Town, was first planned by
Sir William Bruce of Kinross, architect to Charles
II., and his design “ is supposed to be now lying
in the Exchequer,” wrote Kincaid in 1794; but
another plan would seem to have been prepared
in 1752, yet no steps were taken for furthering the
execution of it till 1759, when the magistrates
applied for a Bill to extend the royalty over the
ground on which the New Town stands, but were
defeated by the vigorous opposition of the landholders
of the county.
.After four years’ delay the city was obliged to
set about building the bridge without having any
Bill for it. , By the patriotic exertions of Provost
Drummond a portion of the loch was drained
tively asserted that Provost Drummond declared
to them that he only began to execute what the
Duke, afterwards James VII., proposed.”
This auspicious event was conducted with all
the pomp and ceremony the city at that time
afforded. George Drummond, the Lord Provost,
was appointed, as being the only former Grand-
Master present to act in this position, in the absence
of the then Grand-Master, the Earl of Elgin, The
various lodges of the Freemasons assembled in
the Parliament House at two in the afternoon;
from thence, escorted by the City Guard acd
two companies of militia, they marched three
abreast, with all their insignia, the junior lodges
going first, down Leith Wynd, from the foot of
which they turned westward along the north bank ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [North Bridge. from somewhere about Coltbridge, to fill, and run through the North ...

Vol. 2  p. 336 (Rel. 0.24)

and made the ornate edifice we find it now, with
‘oriel windows and clustering turrets. He was
author of “The Wolf of Badenoch,” “The History of
the Morayshire Floods,” a “Journal of the Queen’s
Visit to Scotland in 1842,” &c He was the lineal
.representative of the Lauders of Lauder Tower and
the Bass, and of the Dicks of Braid and Grange,
and died in 1848.
Near the Grange House is the spacious and
ornamental cemetery of the same name, bordered
on the east by a narrow path, once lined by dense
hedge-rows, which led from the Grange House to the
Meadows, and was long known as the Lovers’ Loan.
This celebrated burying-ground contains the ashes of
Drs. Chalmers,Lee,and Guthne; Sir Andrew Agnew
of Lochnaw, Sir Thomas Dick Lauder, Sir Hope
’ Grant of Kilgraston, the well-known Indian general
and cavalry officer ; Hugh Miller, Scotland’s most
eminent geologist ; the second Lord Dunfermline,
and a host of other distinguished Scotsmen.
CHAPTER V.
THE DISTRICT OF NEWINGTON.
The Causewayside-Summerhall-Clerk Street Chapel and other Churches-Literary Institute-Mayfield Loan-Old Houses-Free Church-
The Powbum-Female Blind Asylum-Chapel of St. John the Baptist-Dominican Convent at the Sciennes-Sciennes Hill House-Scott
and Burns meet-New Trades Maiden Hospital-Hospital for Incurables-Prestonfield House-The Hamiltons and Dick-Cunninghams-
Cemetery at Echo Bank-The Lands of Camemn-Craigmillar-Dexription of the Castle-James V., Queen Mary, and Darnley, resident
there-Queen Mary’s Tree-The Prestons and Gilmours-Peffer Mill House.
In the Grange Road is the Chalmers Memorial
Free Church, built in 1866, after designs by
Patrick Wilson at a cost of .&6,000. It is a
cruciform edifice, in the geometric Gothic style.
In Kilgraston goad is the Robertson Memorial
Established Church, built in 187 I, after designs
by Robert Morham, at a cost of more than L6,ooo.
It is also a handsome cruciform edifice in the
Gothic style, with a spire 156 feet high.
In every direction around these spots spread
miles of handsome villas in every style of architecture,
with plate glass oriels, and ornate railings,
surrounded by clustering trees, extensive gardens ,
and lawns, beautiful shrubberies - in summer,
rich with fruit and lovely flowers-the long lines
of road intersected by tramway rails and crowded
by omnibuses.
Such is now the Burghmuir of James 111.-the
Drumsheugh Forest of David I. and of remoter , times.
WHEN the population of Edinburgh,” says Sir
Walter Scott, “appeared first disposed to burst
from the walls within which it had been so long
confined, it seemed natural to suppose that the
tide would have extended to the south side of
Edinbugh, and that the New Town would have
occupied the extensive plain on the south side
of the College.” The natural advantage pointed
out so early by Sir Walter has been eventually embraced,
and the results are the populous suburban
districts we have been describing, covered with
streets and villas, and Newington, which now extends
from the Sciennes and Preston Street nearly
to the hill crowned by the ancient castle of Craigmillar.
In the Valuation Roll for 1814 the district is
described as the “Lands of Newington, part of the
Old and New Burrowmuir.”
The year 1800 saw the whole locality open and
arable fields, save where stood the old houses of - Mayfield at the Mayfield Loan, a few cottages at
Echo Bank, and others at the Powbum. In those
days the London mails proceeded from the town
by the East Cross Causeway; but as time went
on, Newington House was erected, then a villa
or two : among the latter, one still extant neqr the
corner of West Preston Street, was the residence
of William Blackwood the publisher, and founder
of the firm and magazine.
In the Causewayside, which leads direct from
the Sciennes to the Powburn, were many old and
massive mansions (the residences of wealthy citizens),
that stood back from the roadway, within ‘
double gates and avenues of trees. Some of these
edifices yet remain, but they are of no note, and are
now the abodes of the poor.
Broadstairs House, in the Causewayside, a
massive, picturesque building, demolished to make
room for Mr. T. C. Jack’s printing and publishing
establishment, was built by the doctor of James IV.
or V., and remained in possession of the family till
the end of last century- One half of the edifice
was known as Broadstairs House, and the other
half as Wormwood Hall. Mr. Jack bought the ... made the ornate edifice we find it now, with ‘oriel windows and clustering turrets. He was author of “The ...

Vol. 5  p. 50 (Rel. 0.24)

238 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Grassmarket.
Watt and Downie, they were brought to trial respectively
in August and September, and the facts
were fully proved against them. A letter from
Downie, treasurer of the Committee of Ways and
Means, to Walter Millar, Perth, acknowledging the
receipt of LIS, on which he gave a coloured
account of the recent riots in the theatre on the
performance of ‘‘ Charles I.” was produced and
identified; and Robert Orrock stated that Downie
accompanied Watt to his place at the Water of Leith,
where the order was given for the pikes.
William Brown said that he had made fifteen of
these weapons, by order of Watt, to whom he
delivered them, receiving 22s. 6d. for the fifteen.
Other evidence at great length was led, a verdict of
guilty was returned, and sentence of death was
passed upon the prisoners-to have their bowels
torn out, and to be hanged, drawn, and quartered.
The punishment of Downie was commuted to
transportation ; and on the royal clemency being
announced to him he burst into tears, and kneeling
on the floor of the vault above the portcullis
he exclaimed, in ecstasy, “Oh, glory be to God,
and thanks to the king! Thanks to him for his
goodness ! I will pray for him as long as I live !
He had a wife and children,. and for years had
enjoyed the reputation of being a sober and respectable
mechanic.
Previous to his execution Watt made a full confession
of the aims and objects contemplated by
the committees and their ramifications throughout
Britain. He was in his thirty-sixth year, and was
the natural son of a gentleman of fortune in Angus.
He was executed on the 15th October, 1794 The
magistrates, Principal Baird, the. city guard,. and
town officers, with their halberds, conducted him
from the Castle to the place of death at the end of
the Tolbooth about two o’clock, The sheriff and
his substitute were there, in black, with white
gloves and rods. The hurdle was painted black, but
drawn by a snow-white horse. It was surrounded
by constables and zoo of the Argyle Fencible
Highlanders, stepping to the ‘‘ Dead March.”
Watt was a picture of the most abject dejection.
He was wrapped up in an old greatcoat, and wore
a red night-cap, which, on the platform, he exchanged
for a white one and a round hat ; but his
whole appearance was wretched and pitiful in the
extreme, and all unlike that of a man willing to
die for conscience, or for country’s sake. After
his body had hung for thirty minutes, it was cut
down lifeless and placed on a table ; the executioner
then Came forward with a large axe, and
with two strokes severed from the body the head,
which fell into a basket, and was then held up by
the hair, in the ancient form, by the executioner, who
exclaimed, ‘‘ This is the head of a traitor !
The crowd on this occasion was slow in collecting,
but became numerous at last, and showed little
agitation when the drop fell; “but the appearance
of the axe,” says the Annual Regzkter, “a
sight for which they were totally unprepared, produced
a shock instantaneous as electricity; and
when it was uplifted such a general shriek or shout
of horror burst forth as made the executioner delay
his blow, while numbers .rushed off in all directions
to avoid the sight.” The remains were
next put into a coffin and conveyed away. The
handcuffs used to secure Watt while a prisoner in
the Castle were, in 1841, presented by Miss Walker
of Drumsheugh to the Antiquarian Museum, where
they are still preserved.
C H A P T E R XXXI.
THE COWGATE.
’The Cuwgate-Origin and Gend History of the Thoroughfare-First Houses built the-TheVernour’s Tenement-Alexander Ale-Division
of the City in ~gx-“Dichting the Calsayy in qrS-The Cowgate Port-Beggars in 1616Gilbert B1akha.I-Names ofthe most Ancient
Closes-The North Side of the Street-MacLcllan’s Land-Mrs Syme-John Nimmo-Dr. Qraham-The How of Si Thomas Hope
and Lady Mar-The Old Back Stairs-Tragic Story of Captain Caylq-Old Meal Market-Riots in 1763-The Episcopal Chapel, now
St. Pauick‘s Roman Catholic Church-Trial of the Rev. Mr. Fitzsimmons
THE Cowgate is, and has always been, one of the
most remarkable streets in the ancient city. A
continuation of the south back of the Canongate
it runs along the deepest part of a very deep gorge,
into which Blair, Niddry, and St. Mary‘s Streets,
with many other alleys, descend rapidly from the
north and others from the south, and though high
in its lines of antique houses, it passes underneath
the overspanning central arch of the South Bridge
and the more spacious one of George IV. Bridge,
and, though very narrow, is not quite straight.
For generations it has been the most densely
peopled and poorest district in the metropolis, the
most picturesque and squalid, and, when viewed ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Grassmarket. Watt and Downie, they were brought to trial respectively in August and ...

Vol. 4  p. 238 (Rel. 0.24)

200
the reign of James 111. there were two or three
vessels called “royal,” and among them often
appears the name of this famous Ydow Caravel,
latterly called Admiral Wood’s ship, as if it were
his own private, and at other times a royal, vessel.
The supposition has been that she belonged originally
to either Wood or Barton, who sold her
to King James.
Wood had been a faithful servant to the latter,
says Scotstarvit, and was knighted by him in 1482,
OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH,
have taken place in r481. Prior to 1487 Sir
Andrew Wood is supposed to have relinquished
commerce for the king’s service, and to have
married a lady, Elizabeth Lundie (supposed to be
of the Balgonie family), by whom he had several
sons, two of whom became men of eminence in after
years.
Thus, from being a merchant skipper of North
Leith, he became an opulent and enterprising
trader by his own talent and the course of public
[Leith.
LEITH HARBOUR, 1829. (Afier Sk)hcrd.)
when there was granted to him (Alexander Duke
of Albany being then Lord High Admiral) a iach
of the estate of Largo to keep his ship in repair,
and on the tenure that he should be ready at the
call of the King to pilot and convey him and the
queen to the shrine and well of St. Adrian in the
Isle of May. James afterwards gave him the heritage
of the estate on which he had been born by
a charter under the Great Seal, which recites his
good service by sea and land. This was confirmed
by James IV. in 1497, with the addition that one
of his most eminent deeds of arms had been his
successful defence of the castle of Dumbarton
against the English navy, an exploit buried in
obscurity, and which Pidkerton suggests must
events, ‘‘a brave warrior and skilful naval commander,”
says Tytler, “ an able financialist, intimately
acquainted with the management of commercial
transactions, and a stalwart feudal baron,
who, without abating anything of his pride or his
prerogative, refused not to adopt in the management
of his estates those improvements whose good
effects he had observed in his travels over various
parts of the continent”
He was blunt in manner yet honest of purpose,
and most loyal in heart to his royal master, lames
111. ; and when the troubles of the latter began
in his fierce war with the lawless, proud, and turbulent
Scottish barons-troubles that ended so tragically
after the temble battle of Sauchieburn in ... reign of James 111. there were two or three vessels called “royal,” and among them often appears the ...

Vol. 6  p. 200 (Rel. 0.24)

Leith Walk.] GAYFIELD HOUSE. IGI
ceeded to the title, which is now extinct. The
latter’s sister, Maria Whiteford, afterwards Mrs.
Cranston, was the heroine of Bums’s song, “The
Idass 0’ Ballochmyle,” her father being one of the
poet’s earliest and warmest patrons.
The Gayfield quarter seems to have been rather
aristocratic in those days. In 1767, David, sixth
Earl of Leven, who had once been a captain in the
army, occupied Gayfield House, where in that year
his sister, Lady Betty, was married to John, Earl of
Walk is shown edificed from the corner of Picardy
Place to where we now find Gayfield Square,
which, when it was first erected, was called Gayfield
Place. West London Street was then called
Anglia Street, and its western continuation, in
which old Gayfield House is now included, was not
contemplated. North of this house is shown a
large area, “ Mrs. D. Hope’s feu ;” and between it
and the Walk was the old Botanical Garden.
In 1783 Sir John Whiteford, Bart., of that ilk,
Gordon, relict of Sir Alexander Gordon of Lesmoir,
Bart., died there.
Gayfield House is now a veterinary college.
In 1800 Sir John Wardlaw, Bart., of Pitreavie,
resided in Gayfield Square ; and there his wife, the
daughter of Mitchell of Pitteadie (a ruined castle
in Fifeshire), died in that year. He was a colonel
in the army, and died in 1823, a lieutenantcolonel
of the 4th West India Regiment.
No. I, Gayfield Place, was long the residence of
BOARD SCHOOL, LOVER’S LOAN.
a well-known citizen in his time, Patrick Crichton,
whose father was a coachbuilder in the Canongate,
and who, in 1805, was appointed lieutenantcolonel
commandant of the 2nd Regiment of Edinburgh
Local Militia. He had entered the army when
young, and attained the rank of captain in the
57th Regiment, with which he served during the
American war, distinguishing himself so much that
he received the public thanks of the comrnanderin-
chief. Among his friends and brother-oficers.
then was Andrew Watson, whose brother George
founded the Scottish Academy. When the war was
over he retired, and entered into partnership with
his father ; and on the first formation of the Volunteers,
in consequence of his great military e x p ... Walk.] GAYFIELD HOUSE. IGI ceeded to the title, which is now extinct. The latter’s sister, Maria Whiteford, ...

Vol. 5  p. 161 (Rel. 0.23)

THE OLD THEATRE ROYAL, IN PROCESS PP DEMOLITION.
CHAPTER XLV.
EAST SIDE OF THE NORTH BRIDGE (cotttinued).
Memorabilia of the General Post Office-First Postal System in Scotland-First Communication with Ireland-Sanctions given by the Scotti, I
Parliament-Expenses of the Establishment at various Periods-The Horse Posts-Violation of Letter Bags-Casualties of the Period-Tht
First Stage Coach-Peter Williamsop-The Various Post Office Buildings-The Waterloo Place Office-Royal Arms Removed-New Office
Built-S&C and Fiscal Details.
THE demolition of the old theatre was proceeded
with rapidly, and with it passed away Shakespeare
Square, on its southern and eastern sides, a semirectangle,
alike mean in architecture and disreputable
in character; and on the sites of both,
and of Dingwall’s ancient castle, was erected the
present General Post Office, a magnificent building,
prior to describing which we propose to give some
memorabilia of the development of that institution
in Edinburgh.
The year 1635 was the epoch of a regular postal
system in Scotland, under the Scottish ministry of
Charles I. This systeni was probably limited to
the road between Edinburgh and Berwick, the
main object being to establish a regular communication
with London. Mails were despatched once
and sometimes twice weekly, and the postage of a
single letter was 6d. From Rushworth’s “ Collec-
45
tions” it appears that in that year Thomas Wither
ings, his Majesty’s Postmasterof England and foreign
parts, was directed to adjust “one running post
or two, to run day and night between Edinburgh
and London, to go thither and back again in six
days, and to take with them all such letters as shall
be directed to any post town on the said road.”
Three years after these posts became unsafe ; the
bearers were waylaid and robbed of their letters,
for political reasons.
In 1642, on the departure of the Scottish troops
to protect the Ulster colonists, and put down the
rebellion in Ireland, a line of posts was established
between Edinburgh and Port Patrick, where John
M‘Caig, the postmaster, was allowed by the Privy
Council to have a “post bark”; and in 1649 the
posts were improved by Cromwell, who removed
many, if not all the Scottish officials j and in 1654 ... OLD THEATRE ROYAL, IN PROCESS PP DEMOLITION. CHAPTER XLV. EAST SIDE OF THE NORTH BRIDGE ...

Vol. 2  p. 353 (Rel. 0.23)

374 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Greyfriars Church.
and, forming a part of her volunteer forces, six
battalions of infantry, two of artillery, and a corps
of cavalry.
On the night of the False AZam, on the evening
of the 31st January, 1804, Scotland was studded
with beacons-something on the system ordered by
the twelfthparliament of JamesII. By mistake, that
on Hume Castle was lighted ; other beacons blazed
up in all directions ; the cry was everywhere that
the I;rench had landed! All Scotland rushed to
arms, and before dawn the volunteers were all on
the march, pouring forward to their several rendezvous
; in some instances the Scottish Border
men rode fifty miles to be there, without drawing
bridle, says Scott ; and those of Liddesdale, fearing
to be late at their post, seized every horse they
could find, for a forced march, and then turned
thein loose to make their way home.
When, in 1806, new regulations were issued,
limiting the allowance to volunteers, the First
Edinburgh Regiment remained unaffected by them.
“I wish to remind you,” said the spirited Lieutenant-
Colonel Hope, one day while on parade,
“that we did not take up arms to please any minister,
or set of ministers, but to defend our native
land from foreign and domestic enemies.”
In 1820, when disturbances occurred in .the West
Country, the volunteers garrisoned the Castle, and
offered, if necessary, to co-operate with the forces
in the field, and for that purpose‘remained a whole
night under arms. SOOA after the corps was disbanded,
without thanks or ceremony.
Northward of the hospital, but entering from the
Grassmarket, we find the Heriot brewery, which
we must mention before quitting this quarter, a
being one of those establishments which have long
been famous in Edinburgh, and have made the
ancient trade of a “brewster” one of the mosl
important branches of its local manufacturing in.
dustry.
The old Heriot brewery has been in operation
for considerably over one hundred years, and foi
upwards of forty has been worked by one firm, the
Messrs. J. Jeffrey and Co., whose establishmeni
gives the visitor an adequate idea of the mode in
which a great business of that kind is conducted,
though it is not laid out according to the more
recent idea of brewing, the buildings and work:
having been added to and increased fmm time tc
time, like all institutions that have old and small
beginnings; but notwithstanding all the nurnerou:
mechanical appliances which exist in the diiTeren1
departments of the Heriot brewery, the manu’
services of more than 250 men are required then
daily.
In Gordon’s map of 1647, the old, or last, Greynars
Church is shown with great distinctness, the
,ody of the edifice not as we see it now on the
outh side, but with a square tower of four storeys
.t its western end. The burying ground is of
ts present form and extent, surrounded by pleasant
ows of trees j and north-westward of the church is
species of large circular and ornamental garden
#eat.
Three gates are shown-one to the Candlenaker
Row, where it still is ; another on the south
o the large open field in the south-east angle of the
:ity wall ; and a third-that at the foot of the ROW,
ofty, arched, and ornate, with a flight of steps
zscendiq to it, precisely where, by the vast accumuation
of human clay, a flight of steps goes downward
Over one of these two last entrances, but which
le does not tell us, Monteith, writing in the year
1704, says there used to be the following inscripion
:-
low.
‘‘ Remember, man, as thou goes by :
As thou art now, 50 once was I.
As I am now, so shalt thou be ;
Remember, man, that thou must die (a‘ee).”
The trees referred to were very probably relics
Df the days when the burial-place had been the
Sardens of the Greyfriary in the Grassmarket, at
the foot of the slope, especially as two double rows
of them would seem distinctly to indicate that
they had shaded walks which ran soutli and
north.
Writing of the Greyfriq, Wilson says, we think
correctly :-“ That a church would form a prominent
feature of this royal foundation can hardly be
doubted, and we are inclined to infer that the existence
both of if, and of a churchyard attached to
it, long before Queen Mary’s grant of the gardens
of the monastery for the latter purpose, is implied in
such allusions as the following, in the ‘ Diurnal of
Occurrents,’ July 7th, 157 I. ‘ The haill merchandis,
craftismen, and personis renowned within Edinburgh,
made thair moustaris in the Grey Frear
Kirk Yaird;’ and again, when Birrel, in his diary,
April ~ 6 t h ~ 1598, refers to the ‘work at the Greyfriar
Kirke,’ although the date of the erection of
the more modem church is only 1613.”
In further proof of this idea Scottish history tells
that when, in 1474, the prince royal of Scotland,
(afterwards James IV.) was betrothed, in the second
year of his age, to Cecilia of England, and when on
this basis a treaty of peace between the nations
was concluded, the ratification thereof, and the
betrothal, took place in the church of the Greyfriars,
at Edinburgh, when the Earl of Lindesay ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Greyfriars Church. and, forming a part of her volunteer forces, six battalions of ...

Vol. 4  p. 374 (Rel. 0.23)

Colstorphine.] THE FORRESTERS. 119
of land, in any proper place;” and in 1383 there
followed another charter from the same king concerning
“ the twenty merks yearly from the farmes
of Edinburgh.” (Burgh Charters.) In the preceding
year this influential citizen had been made
Sheriff of Edinburgh and of Lothian.
In 1390 he was made Lord Privy Seal, and
negotiated several treaties with England; but in
1402 he followed Douglas in his famous English
raid, which ended in the battle of Homildon Hill,
where he fell into the hands of Hotspur, but was
ransomed. He died in the Castle of Corstorphine
on the 13th of October, leaving, by his wife, Agnes
Dundas of Fingask, two sons, Sir John, his heir,
and Thomas, who got the adjacent lands of Drylaw
by a charter, under Robert Duke of Albany, dated
‘‘ at Corstorfyne,” 1406, and witnessed among others
by Gilbert, Bishop of Aberdeen, then Lord Chancellor,
George of Preston, and others.
Sir John Forrester obtained a grant of the barony
of Ochtertyre, in favour of him and his first wife
in 1407, and from Henry Sinclair, Earl of Orkney,
he obtained an annuity of twelve merks yearly,
out of the coal-works at Dysart, till repaid thirty
nobles, “which he lent the said earl in his great
necessity.’’
In 1424 he was one of the hostages for the
ransom of James I., with whom he stood so high
in favour that he was made Master of the Household
and Lord High Chamberlain, according to
Douglas, and Lord Chancellor, according to Beatson’s
Lists. His second wife was Jean Sinclair, daughter
of Henry Earl of Orkney. He founded the collegiate
church of which we have given a description,
and in 1425 an altar to St Ninian in the
church of St. Giles’s, requiring the chaplain there
to say perpetual prayers for the souls of James I.
and Queen Jane, and of himself and Margaret his
deceased wife.
He died in 1440, and was succeeded by his son
Sir John, who lived in stormy times, and whose
lands of Corstorphine were subjected to fire and
sword, and ravaged in 1445 by the forces of the
Lord Chancellor, Sir William Crichton, whose lands
of Crichton he had previously spoiled.
By his wife, Marian Stewart of Dalswhton, he
had Archibald his heir, and Matthew, to whom
James III., in 1487, gave a grant of the lands of
Barnton. Then followed in succession, Sir Alexander
Forrester, and two Sir Jameses. On the
death of the last without heirs Corstorphine devolved
on his younger brother Henry, who married
Helen Preston of Craigmillar.
Their son GerJrge was a man of talent and probity.
He stooci high in favour with Charles I.,
who made him a baronet in 1625, and eight years
afterwards a peer, by the title of Lord Forrester
of Corstorphine. By his wife Christian he had
several daughters-Helen, who became Lady Ross
of Hawkhead ; Jean, married to. lames Baillie of
Torwoodhead, son of Lieutenant-General William
Baillie, famous in the annals of the covenanthg
wars ; and Lilias, married to William, another son
of the same officer, And now we approach the
dark tragedy which, for a time, even in those days,
gave Corstorphine Castle a temble notoriety.
George, first Lord Forrester, having no male
heir, made a resignation of his estates and honours
into the hands of the king, and obtained a new
patent from Charles II., to himself in life-rent,
and after his decease, “to, or in favour of, his
daughter Jean and her husband the said James
Baillie and the heirs procreate betwixt them ;
whom failing, to the nearest lawful heir-male of the
said James whatever, they carrying the name and
arms of Forrester ; the said James being designed
Master of Forrester during George’s life.”
This patent is dated 13th August, 1650, a few
weeks before the battle of Worcester. He died
soon after, and was succeeded by his son-in-law,
whose wife is said to have sunk into an earlygrave,
in consequence of his having an intrigue with one
of her sisters.
James Lord Forrester married, secondly, a
daughter of the famous old Cavalier general, Patrick
Ruthven, Earl of Forth and Brentford, by whom,
says Burke, “he had three sons and two daughters,
all of whom assumed the name of Ruthven,”
while Sir Robert Douglas states that he died
without any heir, and omits to record the mode of
his death.
He was a zealous Presbyterian, and for those of
that persuasion, in prelatic times, built a special
meeting-house in Corstorphine ; this did not prevent
him from forming a dangerous intrigue with
a handsome woman named Christian Nimmo,
wife of a merchant in Edinburgh, and the scandal
was increased in consequence of the lady being
the niece of his first wife and grand-daughter of
the first Lord Forrester. She was a woman of a
violent and impulsive character, and was said to
carry a weapon concealed about her person. - It
is further stated that she was mutually related to
Mrs. Bedford, a remarkably wicked woman, who
had murdered her husband a few years before, and
to that Lady Warriston who was beheaded for the
same crime in 1600 ; thus she was not a woman to
be treated lightly.
Lord Forrester, when intoxicated, had on one
occasion spoken of her opprobriously, and this ... THE FORRESTERS. 119 of land, in any proper place;” and in 1383 there followed another charter from ...

Vol. 5  p. 119 (Rel. 0.23)

avaliers were committed prisoners to his care, and
remained there till the pacification of Berwick.
On the 19th of November, King Charles’s birthday,
a great portion of the curtain-wall, which was
very old, fell with a crash over the rocks ; and the
insurgents rejoiced at this event as boding evil to
the royal cause. After the pacification, the Castle,
with thirty others, was restored to the king, who
placed therein a gamson, under Sir Patrick Ruth-
’ made from the gate. Batteries were thrown up
at nearly the same places where they had been
formed in Kirkaldy’s time, Ruthven refused to
give the Estates the use of the regalia. Under
Colonel Hamilton, master of the ordnance, the
batteries opened with vigour, while select musketeers
were “told ofT,” to aim at individuals on the
ramparts. Most bitter was the defence of Ruthven,
whose cannonade imperilled the whole city
THE REGENT MORTON. (Fmm an &ag?awing 6v Hoabmken.)
ven (previously Governor of Ulm under the great
Gustavus), who marched in, on the 25th February,
2640, with drums beating and matches lighted. As
the magistrates refused to supply him with provisions,
and raised 5bo men to keep a watch upon his
garrison, this testy veteran of the Swedish wars
fired a few heavy shot at random on the city,
and on the renewal of hostilities between Charles
and the Scots, Leslie was ordered by the Parliament,
on the 12th June, to reduce the fortress.
Xuthven’s reply to a summons, was to open fire
with guns and matchlocks in every direction, and
a sortie, under Scrimgeour, the constable, was
and the beautiful spire of St Giles’s ; while poor
people reaping in the fields at a distance were
sometimes killed by it.
The Covenanters sprung a mine, and blew up
the south-east angle of the Spur; but the rugged
aspect of the breach was such that few of their
officers seemed covetous of reading a forlorn hope,
especially as old Ruthven, in his rich armour and
plumed hat, appeared at the summit heading a
band of pikes. At last the Laird of Drum and a
Captain Weddal, at the head of 185 men, under a
murderous matchlock fire, made a headlong rush,
but ere they gained the gap, a cannon loaded ... were committed prisoners to his care, and remained there till the pacification of Berwick. On the 19th ...

Vol. 1  p. 52 (Rel. 0.23)

Cmigcrook.1 ARCHIBALD CONSTABLE. I09
them in the middle of the West Bow, and offered
to write the bond which they had agreed to subscribe
with their blood; but on Thomson demurring,
this stranger immediately disappeared. No contemporasy,
of course, could be at any loss to surmise
who this stranger was ! ”
Into Mr. Strachan’s house the assassins made
their way, broke open his study and cash-box, from
which they carried off a thousand pounds sterling
in bags of fifty pounds each, all “ milled money,”
except one hundred pounds, which were in gold.
strange stories regarding the discovery of Thornson’s
guilt.
It is more to the purpose that twelve months after
the murder of Helen Bell, Lady Craigcrook dreamed
that she saw the criminal, in whom she recognised
an old servant, kill the girl and hide the money in
two old barrels filled with rubbish, and that her
husband on making inquiries, found him possessed
of an unusual amount of money, had him arrested,
his house searched, and found .his. bags, which
he identified, with a portion of the missing coin.
CRAIGCROOK IN 1770. (After an Etching by Clerk df E/din).
Robertson actually proposed to set the house on
fire before departing, but Thomson said “he had
done wickedness enough already, and was resolved
not to commit more, even though Robertson
should attempt to murder him for his refusal.”
Five hundred merks reward was offered by Mr.
jtrachan for the detection of the perpetrators of
these crimes ; but it was not until after some weeks
elapsed that suspicion fell upon Thomson, who
was arrested, made a voluntary confession, and was
executed in the Grassmarket.
As no reference is made to the other culprit, he
must have effected his escape. But the credulous
Wodrow, in his “Analecta,” records one of his
In 1736 Craigcrook Castle and grounds were let
on a lease for ninety-nine years, on which early
in the present century they became possessed by
Archibald Constable, the eminent publisher, who
made great improvements upon the mansion and
grounds. Without injuring the appearance of
antiquity in the former, he rendered it partly
the commodious modem residence which Lord
Jeffrey found it for so many summers of his life,
and, like John Hunter, made the old fortalice
sacred in a manner to literary and philosophic
culture.
Here was born, in I 8 I 2, the late Thomas Constable,
who began business in 1833, and by his
taste and care did more than any other man ... ARCHIBALD CONSTABLE. I09 them in the middle of the West Bow, and offered to write the bond which they ...

Vol. 5  p. 109 (Rel. 0.23)

88 OLD AND NEW
Street; and till 1856 the annual sittings of the Free
Assembly were held in it.
Here, too, in 1847, it witnessed the constituting
of the Synods of the Secession and Relief Churches
into the Synod of the United Presbyterian Church
of Scotland.
Old Canonmills House, which faced Fettes Row,
has been removed, and on its site was erected,
in 1880-1, a handsome United Presbyterian Church
within a crescent.
In the month of October, 1879, there was laid
at Bellevue Crescent, by the Lord Provost (Sir
Thomas Boyd), in presence of a vast concourse
of people, the foundation stone of a handsome
German church-the first of its kind in Scotlandfor
the congregation of Hem Blumenreich, which
for a number of years preceding had been wont to
meet in the Queen Street Hall. The Provost
was presented with a silver trowel wherewith to
lay the stone. Tie cost was estimated at &2,600.
The building was designed by Mr. Wemyss,
architect, Leith, in the Pointed Gothic style, for
350 sitters.
Where now Claremont Terrace andBellevueStreet
zre erected in Broughton Park, there existed,
EDINBURGH. [Canonmills.
between 1840 and 1867, the Zoological Gardens
(a small imitation of the old Vauxhall Gardens in
London), where the storming of Lucknow and other
such scenes of the Indian mutiny used to be nightly
represented, the combatants being parties of soldiers
from the Castle, the fortifications and so forth
being illuminated transparencies. Unfortunately or
otherwise the gardens proved a failure. Among
the last animals here were two magnificent tigers,
sent from India by the then Governor-General, the
‘Marquis of Dalhousie, and afterwards, we believe,
transmitted to the Zoological Gardens in London.
Here, too, was Wood’s Victoria Hall, a large
timber-built edifice for musical entertainments,
which was open till about 1857.
Eastward of old Broughton Hall here, and bordering
on the old Bonnington Road, are various little
properties and quaint little mansion-houses, such
as Powderhall, Redbraes, Stewartfield, Bonnington
House, and Pilrig, some of them situated where
the Leith winds under wooded banks and past little
nooks that are almost sylvan still-and each of
these has. its own little history or traditions.
Powderhall, down in a dell, latterly the property
of Colonel Macdonald, in 1761 was the residence ... OLD AND NEW Street; and till 1856 the annual sittings of the Free Assembly were held in it. Here, too, in ...

Vol. 5  p. 88 (Rel. 0.23)

BARBARA NAPIER 3‘9 The West Bow.]
tlength, involving that of many others; but a portion
of the charges against her will suffice as a sample
of the whole, from U Pitcairn’s Trials.”
‘‘ Satan had informed the witches that James VI.
sf Scotland was the greatest enemy he had, and
the latter‘s visit to Norway, to bring over his queen,
seemed to afford an opportunity for his destrucition.
Accordingly, Dr. Fiar of Tranent, the
.devil’s secretary, summoned a great gathering of
witches on Hallow Eve, when zoo of them embarked,
each in a riddle or sieve, with much mirth
.and jollity; and after cruising about somewhere on
the ocean with Satan, who rolled himself before
them on the waves, dimly seen, but resembling a
huge haystack in size and aspect, he delivered to
-one of the company, named Robert Grierson, a
cat, which had been drawn previously nine times
through a crook, giving the order to ‘cast the same
into the sea.’ ”
This remarkable charm was intended to raise
such a furious tempest as would infallibly drown
the king and queen, then on their homeward
lroyage from Christiania, which, if any credit may
be given to the declaration of James (who greedily
swallowed the story), was not without some effect,
as the ship which conveyed him encountered a
furious contrary wind, while all the rest of the fleet
.had a fair one and a smooth sea.
On this, Barbara Napier and her infernal companions,
after regaling themselves with wine out of
their sieves, landed, and proceeded in procession
t o North Berwick Kirk, where the devil awaited
them in the pulpit, singing as they went-
‘‘ Cummer go ye before, cummer go ye ;
Cif ye winna gang before, cummer let me.”
Sir James Melville gives us a most distinct account
-of the devil’s appearance on this auspicious ocusion.
His body was like iron; “his faice was
terrible; his nose like the bek of an egle;” he
had claws like those of a griffin on his hands and
>feet. He then called the roll to see that all were
present, and all did him homage in a manner
.equally humiliating and indecorous, which does
not admit of description here.
All this absurdity being proved against Barbara
Napier, she was sentenced, with many others, on
the 11th of May, 1590, to be burnt “at a stake sett
on the Castle HiU, with barrells, coales, heather,
and powder;” but when the torch was about to
be applied, pregnancy was alleged, according to
“ Calderwood’s Historie,” as a just and sufficient
Cause for staying proceedings; the execution was
delayed, and ultimately the unfortunate creature
was set at liberty by order of James VI, Now
nothing remains of these Napiers but their tomb
and burial-place on the north side of the choir of
St. Giles’s.
In the basement of the house which was once
theirs was the booth from which the rioters, on the
night of the 7th September, 1736, obtained the
rope with which they hanged Porteous. It was
then rented by a woman named Jeffrey, a dealer in
miscellaneous wares, who offered them the rope
gratis when she learned for what purpose it was
required, but one of the conspirators threw a
guinea on the counter as payment. The house of
the Napiers was demolished in 1833.
Opposite the mansion of Provost Stewart, and
also outside the Bow Port, but on the east side of
the bend, was a tenement known as “the Clockmaker’s
Land,” which was demolished in 1835, to
make way for what is now Victoria Street, but
which ’took its name from an eminent watchmaker,
a native of France, named Paul ,Romieu, who is
said to have occupied it from the time of Charles
11. (about 1675) till the beginning of the eighteenth
century. In front of the house there remained,
until its demolition, one of the wonders of the
Bow-a curious piece of mechanism, which formed
the sign of the ingenious Paul Romieu. It projected
over the street from the third storey-a gilded
ball representing the moon, which was made to
revolve by means of clockwork. A large iron
key of antique form, which was found among the
ruins of this house, is preserved in the hfuseum of
Antiquities.
Among the oldest edifices in ]this part of the
street was one which bore the singular name of
the ‘‘ Mahogany Land,” having an outer stair protected
by a screen of wood. There was no date
to record its erection, but its ceilings were curiously
adorned by paintings precisely similar to those
which were found in the palace of Mary of Guise
in the Castle Hill ; and no record remained of its
generations of inmates, save that, like others about
to be mentioned, it bore the iron cross of the
Temple, and also the legend-which, from being a
simply moral apophthegm, and not Biblical, was
supposed to be anterior to the Reformation-22 .
yt. fhZis . overcommis, (i.e., “He that bears overcomes.”)
There was also a half-obliterated shield.
For ages the Bow was famous as the chief place
for whitesmiths, and till about the time of its demcr
lition there was scarcely a shop in it occupied by
any other tradesmen, and even on Sunday the
ceaseless clatter of their hammers on all hands
rang from morning till night.
Behind the Mahogany Land “ lay several steep,
narrow, and gloomy closes, containing the most ... NAPIER 3‘9 The West Bow.] tlength, involving that of many others; but a portion of the charges against ...

Vol. 2  p. 319 (Rel. 0.23)

Parliament House
PARLIAMENT HOUSE IN THE PRESENT DAY.
the Earl of Marchmont 
Earl of Cromarty . . . . 300 0 o
Lord Prestonhall . . . , 200 o o
Lord Ormiston, Lord Justice Clerk zoo o o
Duke of Montrose . . . . 200 o o
Dukeof Athole . . . . 1000 o o
Earl ofBalcanis . . . . 500 o o
EarlofDunmore . . . . 200 o o
Stewart of castle Stewari . . 300 o o
Earl of Eglinton . . . . 200 o o
LordFraser . . . . . 100 o o
Lord Cessnock (afterwards Polworth) 50 o o
Mr. JohnCampbell . . . zoo o o
Earl ofForfar . . . . 100 o o
Sir Kenneth Mackenzie. . . IOO o o
EarlofGlencaim . . . . 100 o o
Earl of Kintore . . . . zoo o o
Earl of Findlater . . . . 100 o o
John Muir, Provost of Ayr . . 100 o o
LordForbes . . 5 0 0 0
Earl of Seafield (tfte&ards ’Findlater)
. . . . . 490 o o
Marquis of Tweeddale . . . 1000 o o
Dukeof Roxburghe . . . 500 o o
Lord Elibank‘ . . . . . 50 o o
LordBanff . . . . . 11 z o
Major Cunninghame ofEckatt . 100 o o
Bearer ofthe Treaty of Union . 60 o o
Sir William Sharp. . . . 300 o o
Coultrain, Provostof Wigton . . 25 o o
Mr. Alexander Wedderburn . 75 0 0
High Commissioner (Queensberry) 12,325 o o
L207540 17 7
Lord Anstruther . - . 3 0 0 0 0
Ere the consummation, James Duke of Hamilton
and James Earl of Bute quitted “ the House in disgust
and dispair, to return to it no more.”
The corrupt state of the Scottish peerage can
scarcely excite surprise when we find that, according
to Stair’s Decisions,. Lord Pitsligo, but a few
years before this, purloined Lord Coupar’s watch,
they at the time ‘‘ being sitting in Parliament !”
Under terror of the Edinburgh mobs, who nearly
tore the Chancellor and others limb from limb in the
streets, one half of the signatures were appended tc
the treaty in a cellar of a house, No 177, High
Street, opposite the Tron Church, named “the
Union Cellar;” the rest were appended in an arbour
which then adorned the Garden of Moray House
in the Canongate ; and the moment this was accornplished,
Queensberry and the conspiratofs-for
such they really seem to have been-fled to England
before daybreak, with the duplicate of the treaty.
The Curses,” was long
after sung in every‘street.
A bitter song, known as
“ Curs’d be the Papists who withdrew
The king to their persuasion ;
Cun’d be the Covenanting crew
Who gave the first occasion. ... House PARLIAMENT HOUSE IN THE PRESENT DAY. the Earl of Marchmont Earl of Cromarty . . . . 300 0 ...

Vol. 1  p. 164 (Rel. 0.23)

216 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Dab.
~~ ~~
Cuthbert’s, in 1831, for .&2,500, and seated for
1,300.
The church was built in 1827, and is now named
St David‘s, the parish being quo~d sawa, and disjoined
from St Cuthbert’s.
The United Secession Congregation, which formerly
sat here, have now their. place of worship,
seated for 1,284, on the west side of the Lothian
Road. In architecture, externally, it is assimilated
with the street.
charters granted by the Scottish kings between
1309 and 1413 the lands of Dalry, near Edinburgh,
are mentioned in several instances. Under Robert
I. the lands of Merchinstoun ahd Dalry ” were
granted to William Bisset. Under David II.,
Roger Hog, burgess of Edinburgh, had “one
annual forth of Dalry ;,I and there was a charter
given by William More, of Abercorn, to William
Touris and Helenor Bruce, Countess of Carrick, of
the lands of Dalry, in the county of Edinburgh.
EDINBURGH CASTLE FROM PORT HOPETO[’N, 1825. (A/?#- EW6U.d)
Westward of this quarter lies the old historic
suburban district named Dalry. The quaint old
mancr house of that name, which stood so
long embosomed among its ancient copsewood,
on the east side of the Dalry Road, with its
projecting towers crowned by ogee roofs, is
now incorporated with one of the somewhat
humble class of streets, which hereabout have
covered the whole estate, even to Wester Dalry,
near the cemetery of that name.
Of Celtic origin, it takes its name from Dal, a
vale, and righ, “ a king,” like a place of the same
name in Cunningham, near which there is also a
spot named, like that at Holyrood, Croft an Righ,
“the croft of the king.” In the roll of missing
This Helenor was the only daughter of Alexander,
fifth Earl of Carrick (who fell at the battle of
Halidon Hill, in 1333)’ and was the wife of Sir
William Cunningham, of Kilmaurs.
In the sixteenth century this fertile and valuable
barony became the property of the Chieslieq
wealthy burgesses of Edinburgh. .
In 1672 there was a “ratification” by Parliament
in favour of the notorious John Chieslie
(son of Walter Chieslie of Dalry) of the lands of
Gorgie; and the inscription on the tomb of his
mother in the Greyfriars is thus given in Monteith’s
“Theatre of Mortality,” I 704-
Memonk charissimle SUE mnjugis, Cuthayin@
Tad, ~ U E decessit 27th Januav, 1679 Manumen ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Dab. ~~ ~~ Cuthbert’s, in 1831, for .&2,500, and seated for 1,300. The church ...

Vol. 4  p. 216 (Rel. 0.23)

192 OLD AND PEW EDINBUKGH. [Leith.
on the coast of East Lothian, from whence the way
to England was open and free.
But the daring Mackintosh suddenly conceived
a very different enterprise. The troops under him
were all picked men, drawn from the regiments of
the Earls of Mar and Strathmore, of Lord Nairn,
Lord Charles Murray, and Logie-Drummond, with
his own clan the Mackintoshes. With these he
conceived the idea of capturing Edinburgh, then
only seventeen miles distant, and storming the
Castle. But the Provost mustered the citizens,
placed the City Guard, the Trained Bands, and
the Volunteers, at all vulnerable points, and sent to
Argyle, then at Stirling, on the 14th October, for
aid.
At ten that night the Duke, at the head of only
300 dragoons mounted on farm horses, and 200
infantry, passed through the city just as the Highlanders,
then well-nigh worn out, halted at Jock’s
Lodge.
Hearing of the Duke’s arrival, and ignorant of
what his forces might be, the brigadier wheeled off
to Leith, where his approach excited the most ludicrous
consternation, as it had done in Edinburgh,
where, Campbell says in his History, ‘‘ the approach
of 50,000 cannibals” could not have discomposed
the burgesses more. Mackintosh entered Leith
late at night, released forty Jacobite prisoners from
the Tolbooth, and took possession of the citadel,
the main fortifications of which were all intact, and
now enclosed several commodious dwellings, used
as bathing quarters by the citizens of Edinburgh.
How Argyle had neglected to garrison this strong
post it is impossible to conjecture; but “Old
Borlum “-as he was always called-as gates were
wanting, made barricades in their place, took eight
pieces of cannon from ships in the harbour, provisioned
himself from the Custom House, and by
daybreak next morning was in readiness to receive
the Duke of Argyle, commander of all the forces
in Scotland.
At the head of 1,000 men of all arms the latter
approached Leith, losing‘on the way many volunteers,
who “ silently slipped out of the ranks and
returned to their own homes.” He sent a message
to the citadel, demanding a surrender on one hand,
and threatening no quarter on the other. To
answer this, the Laird of Kynachin appeared on
the ramparts, and returned a scornful defiance.
‘‘ As to surrendering, they laughed at it ; and as to
assaulting them, they were ready for him ; they
would neither give nor take quarter; and if he
thought he was able to force them, he might try his
hand.”
Argyle carefully reconnoitred the citadel, and,
‘ I
with the concurrence of his officers, retired with
the intention of attacking in strength next day ;
but Borlum was too wary to wait for him. Resolving
to acquaint Mar with his movements, he
sent a boat across the Firth, causing shots to be
fired as it left Leith to deceive the Hanoverian
fleet, which allowed it to pass in the belief that it
contained friends of the Government ; and at nine
that night, taking advantage of a cloudy sky, he
quitted the citadel with all his troops, and, keeping
along the beach, passed round the head of the pier
at low water, and set out on his march for England.
Yet, though the darkness favoured him, it led to
one or two tragic occurrences. Near Musselburgh
some mounted gentlemen, having fired upon the
Highlanders, led the latter to believe that all horsemen
were enemies; thus, when a mounted man
approached them alone, on being challenged in
Gaelic, and unable to reply in the same language,
he was shot dead.
The slain man proved to be Alexander Malloch,
of Moultray’s Hill, who was coming to join them.
“ The brigadier was extremely sorry for what had
taken place, but he was unable even to testify the
common respect of a friend by burying the deceased.
He had only time to possess himself of the money
found on the corpse-about sixty guineas-and then
leave it to the enemy.’’
The advance of Mar rendered Argyle unable to
pursue Borlum, who eventually joined Forster,
shared in his defeat, and would have been hanged
and quartered at Tyburn, had he not broken out
of Newgate and escaped to France.
A few days after his departure from Leith, the
Trained Bands there were ordered to muster on the
Links, to attend their colours and mount guard,
‘‘ at tuck of drumme, at what hour their own officers
shall appoint, and to bring their best armes along
with them.”
There is a curious “ dream story,” as Chambers
calls it in his “Book of Days,” connected with
Leith in 1731, which Lady Clerk of Penicuik ( d e
Mary Dacre, of Kirklinton in Cumberland), to
whom we have referred in our first volume, communicated
to BZwkwood’s Magazine in 1826. She
related that her father was attending classes in
Edinburgh in 1731, and was residing under the
care of an uncle-Major Griffiths-whose regiment
was quartered in the castle. The young man had
agreed to join a fishing party, which was to start
from .Leith harbour next morning. No objection
was made by Major or Mrs. Griffiths, from whom
he parted at night. During her sleep the latter
suddenly screamed out : “The boat is sinkingoh,
save them !” The major awoke her, and said : ... OLD AND PEW EDINBUKGH. [Leith. on the coast of East Lothian, from whence the way to England was open and ...

Vol. 5  p. 192 (Rel. 0.23)

322 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [1745!.
CEIAFTER XL.
E D I N B U R G H IN 1745.
Provost Stewart-Advance of the Jacobite Clans-Preparations for Defence-CapturC of the City-Lochiel’s Surprise--Entmnce of Prince
Charles-Arrival at Holyrood-James VIII. Proclaimed at the Cross+onduct of the Highland Troops in the City-Colquhoun Grant-
A Triumphal Procession-Guest’s Council of War-Preston’s Fidelity.
WE have referred to the alleged narrow escape of
Prince Charles Edward in the house of Provost
Stewart in the West Bow. Had he actually been
captured there, it is difficult to tell, and indeed useless
to surmise, what the history of the next few
years would have been. The Castle would probably
have been stormed by his troops, and we might
never have heard of the march into England, the
fields of Falkirk or Culloden. One of the most
singular trials consequent upon the rising of 1745
was that of Provost Stewart for ‘( neglect of duty,
misbehaviour in public office, and violation of trust
and duty.”
From his house in the Bow he had to proceed to
London in November, 1745. Immediately upon
his arrival he sent notice of it to the Secretary of
State, and underwent a long and vexatious trial
before a Cabinet CounciL He was taken into
custody, but was liberated upon the 23rd of
January, 1746, on bail to the extent of ~15,000,
to appear, as a traitor, before the High Court of
Justiciary at Edinburgh.
Whether it was that Government thought he was
really culpable in not holding out the extensive
and mouldering wal!s of Edinburgh against :troops
already flushed with success, and in opposition to
the wishes of the majority of the inhabitants, or
whether they meant only to intimidate the disaffected,
we shall not determine, says Arnot. Provost
Stewart was brought to trial, and the court
“fotind it relevant to infer the pains of law, that ihe
panel, at the time and place libelled, being then
Lord Provost of the City of Edinburgh, wilfully
neglected to pursue, or wilfully opposed, or obstqcted
when opposed by others, such measures as
were necessary for the defence of the city against
the rebels in the instances libelled, or so much
of them as do amount to such wilful neglect.”
After a trial, which occupies zoo pages of an
octavo volume (printed for Crawford in the Parlia-
.merit Close, r747), on the and of November, the
jury, the half of whom were country gentlemen,
returned a vcrdict, unanimously finding Provost
Stewart not guilty; but he would seem to have left
the city soon after. He settled in London, where
he became an eminent merchant, and died at
Bath, in 17S0, in the eighty-third year of hisage.
No epoch of. the past has left so vivid an
impression on the Scottish mind as the year 1745 ;
history and tradition, poetry and music, prove
this from the days of the Revolution down to those
of Burns, Scott, and others ; for the whole land
became filled with melodies for the lost cause and
fallen race ; while it is a curious fact, that not one
song or air can be found in favour of the victors.
Considerable discontent preceded the advent
of the Highlanders in Edinburgh, which then had
a population of only about 40,000 inhabitants.
Kincaid tells us that thep was an insurrection
there in 1741 in consequence of the high price of
food; and another in 1742, in consequence of a
number of dead bodies having been raised. The
former of these was not quelled without bloodshed,
and in the latter the houses of many suspected
persons were burned to the ground; and that
imaginary tribulation might not be wanting, we
learn from the autobiography of Dr. Carlyle of
Inveresk, that people now began to recall a prophecy
of Peden the pedlar, that the Clyde should
run with blood in 1744.
A letter from the Secretary of State to the Town
Council had made that body aware, so early as the
spring of 1744, that it was the intention of Prince
Charles to raise an insurrection in the Highlands,
and they hastened to assure the king of their
loyalty and devotion, to evince which they prepared
at once for the defence of the city, by
augmenting its Guard to 126 men, and mustering
the trained bands. After landing in the wilds of
Moidart, with only seven men, and unfurling his
standard in Glenfinnan, on the 19th of August,
1745, Charles Edward soon found himself at the
head of 1,200 followers, whose success in a few
petty encounters roused the ardour and emulation
of the Macdonalds, McLeans, and other warlike
septs, who rose in arms, to peril life and fortune
for the last of the old royal race.
The news of his landing reached Edinburgh on
the 8th of August, and it was quickly followed by
tidings of the muster in Glenfinnan, and the capture
of a company of the. 1st Royal Scots, at the
Spean Bridge, by Major Macdonald of Teindreich.
Early in July 5,000 stand of arms had been placed
in the Castle, which Lieutenant-General Sir John
Cope ordered to be provisioned, while he reinforced
its ordinary garrison by two companies of the 47th
regiment; and theLieutenant-Governor, Lieutenant-
General Preston, of Valleyfield (who had been
2 ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [1745!. CEIAFTER XL. E D I N B U R G H IN 1745. Provost Stewart-Advance of the ...

Vol. 2  p. 322 (Rel. 0.23)

76 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. Holyrood.
~ ~~ ~~ ~
period, and in 1736- one of unusual brilliance
was given in January, the Hon. Charles Hope
(afterwards Muster Master-General for Scotland)
being king, and the Hon. Lady Helen Hope
queen. In the Gallery of the Kings a table was
covered with 300 dishes en ambigzr, at which sat
150 ladies at a time . . . . illuminated with 400
wax candles. ‘!The plan laid out by the council
of the Company was exactly followed with the
their dark days had found refuge at St. Germains.
He entered Holyrood under a salute from the
castle, while the approaches were lined by the
Hopetoun Fencibles and Windsor Foresters. He
held a levCe next day at the palace, where he was
soon after joined by his son, the Duc d’Angoul6me.
The royal family remained several years at Holyrood,
when they endeared themselves to all in
Edinburgh, where their presence was deemed but
greatest order and decency, and concluded without
the least air of disturbance.”
Yet brawls were apt to occur then and for long
after, as swords were worn in Edinburgh till a
later period than in England j and an advertisement
in the Cowant for June, 1761, refers to a
silver-mounted sword having been taken in mistake
at an election of peers in that year at
Holyrood.
The ancient palace had once more royal inmates
when, on the 6th of June, 1796, there
landed at Leith, under a salute from the fort,
H.R.H. the Comte d’Artois, Charles Philippe, the
brother of Louis XVI., in exile, seeking a home
under the roof of the royal race that had so
often intermarried with his family, and which in
a natural link of the old alliance that used to exist
between Scotland and France.
The count, with his sons the Duc d‘Angoul6me
and the Duc de Bem, was a constant attender at the
drills of the Edinburgh Volunteers, in the meadows
or elsewhere, though he never got over a horror of
the uniform they wore then-blue, faced with redwhich
reminded him too sadly of the ferocious
National Guard of France. , He always attended in
his old French uniform, with the order of St.
Ampoule on his left breast, just as we may see him
in Kay’s Portraits. He was present at St. Anne’s
Yard when, in 1797, the Shropshire Militia, under
Lord Clive-the j ~ s t English regiment of militia
that ever entered Scotland-was reviewed by Lord
Adam Gordon, the commander-in-chief. ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. Holyrood. ~ ~~ ~~ ~ period, and in 1736- one of unusual brilliance was given in ...

Vol. 3  p. 76 (Rel. 0.23)

to him an intimation that he was to be made
prisoner, and advised him to lose no time in
assuming the defensive. On this he sent his uncle,
the ‘fambus Gavin Douglas, Bishop of Dunkeld,
to remonstrate with the archbishop, Arran, and
others present, “ to caution them against violence,
and to inform them that if they had anything to
allege against him he would be judged by the laws
of the realm, and not by men who were his avowed
enemies.” Meanwhile he put on his armour, and
drew up his spearmen in close array near the
Nether-Bow Port-the Temple Bar of Edinburgh
-a gate strongly fortified by double towers.
When the Bishop of Dunkeld entered the archbishop’s
house in the Blackfriars Wynd he found
all present armed, and resolved on the most desperate
measures. Even the archbishop wore a coat
of mail, covered by his ecclesiastical costume, and
in the dispute that ensued he concluded a vehement
speech by striking his breast, and asseverating-‘‘
There is no remedy ! The Earl of Angus
must go to prison. Upon my conscience I cannot
help it 1 ”
As he struck his breast the armour rattled.
“ How now, my lord ? ” said the Bishop of Dunkeld
; “ I think your conscience clatters! We
are priests, and to bear arms or armour is not
consistent with our profession.”
The archbishop explained “ that he had merely
provided for his own safety in these days of continued
turmoil, when no man could leave his house
but at the hazard of his life.”
Numbers of citizens and others had now joined
Angus, who was exceedingly popular, and the people
handed weapons from the windows to all his followers
who required them. He barricaded all the
entrances to the steep wynds and closes leading from
the High Street to the Cowgate, and took post
himself near the head of the Blackfriars Wynd.
Sir James Hamilton of Finnart came rushing upward
at the head of the Hamiltons to attack the
Douglases. Angus, who knew him, ordered the
latter to spare him if possible, but he was onc
of the first who perished in the fierce and bloody
fray that ensued, and involved the whole city in
universal uproar.
“A Hamilton ! a
Hamilton ! Through ! Through ! ” such were the
adverse cries.
The many windows of the lofty and gable-ended
houses of the High Street were crowded with the
excited faces of spectators ; the clash of swords and
crash of pikes, the shouts, yells, and execration:
of the combatants as they closed in fierce conflict
added to the general consternation, and killed and
“A Douglas ! a Douglas !”
vounded began to cumber the causeway in every
iirection.
The Hamiltons gave way, and, sword in hand,
he exasperated Angus drove them headlong down
be Blackfriars Wynd, killing them on every hand.
r’he Earl of Arran and a kinsman hewed a passage
)ut of the m t e , and fled down an alley on the north
iide of the High Street. At the foot they found
I collier’s horse, and, throwing the burden off the
tnimal, both mounted it, though in armour, swam
t across the loch to the other side, and escaped
tmong the fields, where now Princes Street stands.
Many Douglases perished in the skirmish, which
was long remembered as ‘‘ Cleanse the Causeway.”
3f the Hamiltons eighty were slain on the spot,
including Sir Patrick son of the first Lord Hamilton,
and the Master of Montgomery, according to
Hawthornden. The archbishop fled to the adjacent
Blackfriars church for sanctcary, but the
Douglases dragged him from behind the altar,
rent his episcopal habit from his back, and would ’
have slain him had not the Bishop of Dunkeld
interfered; and he was permitted to fly afoot to
Linlithgow, sixteen miles distant.
Towards the termination of the fight 800 border
troopers, under the Prior of Coldingham (Angus’s
brother), came galloping hi, and finding the gates
and wickets closed, they beat them in with hammers;
but by that time the fray was over.
This was but a specimen of the misrule that
pervaded the whole realm till the arrival of the
Regent Albany, when the Parliament at Edinburgh
named four peers as guardians of the young king
and his infant brother, permitting the queen to name
other four. On this being adjusted, the Duke of
Albany and these peers in their robes of state,
attended by esquires and pages, proceeded to the
Castle, at the gate of which they were received by
a singular tableau of an imposing description.
The bamers were thrown open, and on the
summit of the flight of forty steps which then gave
access to them, stood the beautiful queen of that
heroic king who fell at Flodden, holding by the
hand the little James V., while a pace or two
behind her stood a noble lady, supporting in her
arms his infant brother. With real or affected
sweetness of manner she asked their errand.
“ Madam,” replied the royal duke, “ we come
by the authority of Parliament to receive at your
hands our sovereign and his brother.’’
Margaret Tudor stepped back a pace, and
ordered the portcullis to be lowered, and as the
grating descended slowly between her and the four
delegates, she said :-
“ I hold this Castle by gift from my late husband, ... him an intimation that he was to be made prisoner, and advised him to lose no time in assuming the defensive. ...

Vol. 1  p. 39 (Rel. 0.23)

94 . OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Inverleith.
the long hill on the south side of the West Port,
from Cowfeeder Row to the Bristo Port, the eastei
and wester crofts of Bristo, nearly down to the lsnds
of the abbey of Holyrood.
Of the old fortalice of this extinct race, and ol
their predecessors-which stood on the highesi
ground of Invorleith, a little way west of where
we find the modern house now embosomed among
luxuriant timber-not a vestige remains. Even
its ancient dovecot-in defiance of the old Scottish
superstition respecting the destruction of a dovecot
-has been removed. “The beautiful and sequestered
footpath bordered (once ?) by hawthorn
hedges, known by the name of Gabriel’s Road,”
says a local writer, “is said to have been constructed
for the convenience of the ancient lairds
of Inverleith to enable them to attend worship in
St. Giles’s.”
No relics remain of the ancient dwelling, unless
we except the archery butts, 600 feet apart,
standing nearly due south of Inverleith Mains, the
old home farm of the mansion, and the two very
quaint and ancient lions surmounting the pillars of
the gate at the north end of St. Bernard’s Row,
and which local tradition avers came from the
Castle of Edinburgh.
Of the different families who have possessed this
estate, and inhabited first the baronial tower, and
latterly the manor-house there, but a few disjointed
notices can alone be gleaned.
“The lands upon which I live at Inverleith,”
says the late eminent antiquary, Cosmo Innes, in
his “Scottish Legal Antiquities,” “ which I can
trace back by charters into the possession of the
baker of William the Lion, paid, in the time of
King Robert I., a hundred shillings of stediizgs.
(The coinage of the Easterlings.) Some fields beside
me are still called the Baxteis (i.e., Baker‘s)
Lands.”
And this is after a lapse of seven hundred
years.
Among the charters of Robert I. is one to
William Fairly of the lands of Inverleith, in the
county of Edinburgh. Among those of David 11.
is another charter of the same lands to William
Ramsay ; and another, by Robert II., of the same
to David Ramsay.
The date of the latter charter is given in the
“Douglas Peerage” as the 2nd of July, 1381, and
the recipient as the second son of the gallant and
patriotic Sir William Ramsay of Dalhousie, who
drew the English into an ambuscade at the battle
of Nisbetmuir in 1355, and caused their total
rout.
In time to come Inverleith passed to the Touris.
In 1425 John of Touris (or Towers) appears a?
a bailie of Edinburgh, with Adam de Bonkill and
John Fawside.
In 1487 William Touris of Innerleith (doubtless
his son) granted an annuity of fourteen merks for
the support of a chaplain to officiate at St. Anne’s
altar, in St. Cuthbert’s Church. George Touris was
a bailie of the city in 1488-92, and in the fatal year
of Flodden, 1513, 19th August, he is designated
“President” of the city, the provost of which-
Sir Alexander Lauder-was killed in the battle ;
and Francis Touris (either a son or brother) was
a bailie in the following year.
’ In the ‘‘ Burgh Records,” under date 1521, when
the Lairds of Restalrig and Craigmillar offered at
a Town Council meeting to be in readiness tw
resist the king’s rebels, in obedience to his royal
letters, for the safety of his person, castle, and
town; hereupon, “ Schir Alexander Touris of-
Innerleith protestit sik lik.”
In 1605, Sir George Touris of Garmilton,
knight, succeeded his father John of Inverleith in
the dominical lands thereof, the mill and craig ofi
that name, the muir and fortalice of Wardie, and
Bell’s land, alias the “ Lady’s land of Inverleith.”
Sir John Touris of Inverleith mamed Lady
Jean Wemyss, a daughter of the first Lord Wemyss
of Elcho, afterwards Earl, who died in 1649. In
1648 this Sir John had succeeded his father, Sir
Alexander Touris, knight in the lands of Inverleith,
Wardie, Tolcroce, Highriggs, &c.
The epoch of the Commonwealth, in 1652, saw
John Rocheid, heir to his father James, a merchant
and burgess of Edinburgh, in ‘‘ the Craig of Inverleith,”
(“ Retours.”) This would imply Craigleith,
as from the “Retours ” in 1665, Inverleith, in
the parish of St. Cuthbert’s, went from James Halyburton,
proprietor thereof, to Alexander, his father.
And in ‘‘ Dirleton’s Decisions,” under date 1678,
Halyburton, “ late of Inverleith,” is referred to as
a prisoner for debt at Edinburgh. So from them
the estate had passed to the Rocheids.
Sir James Rocheid of Inverleith, petitioned the
Privy Council in 1682, for permission to ‘‘ enclose
and impark some ground,” under an Act of 1661 ;
and in 16yz he entailed the estate. In 1704 he was
made a baronet.
In the “Scottish Nation,” we are told that
Rocheid of Inverleith, a name originating in a
personal peculiarity, had as a crest a man’s head
rough and hairy, the same borne by the Rocheids
of Craigleith. The title became extinct in the
person of Sir Jarnes, the second baronet, whose.
daughter and co-heiress, Mary, married Sir Francis
Kinloch, Bart., and her third son, on succeeding. ... . OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Inverleith. the long hill on the south side of the West Port, from Cowfeeder Row to ...

Vol. 5  p. 94 (Rel. 0.23)

246 OLD AND NEW EDINEURGH. [Cowgate.
showed that the barrel had been placed so as to collect
the rain water from the eaves of a long defunct
house, with a stepping-stone to enable any one to
reach its contents.
The old Meal Market was the next locality of
importance on this side. In 1477 James 111.
ordained this market to be held “ fra the Tolbooth
up to Liberton’s Wynd, alsua fra thence upward to
the treviss;” but the meal market of 1647, as
shown in Gordon’s map, directly south of the
. Parliament House, seems to have been a long,
unshapely edifice, with two high arched gates.
. In 1690 the meal market paid to the city,
A77 15s. 6d. sterling. As we have related elsewhere,
all this quarter was destroyed by the “ Great
Fire” of 1700, which “broke out in the lodging
immediately under Lord Crossrig‘s lodging in the
meal market,” and from which he and his family
had to seek flight in their night-dress. One of
his daughters, Jean Home, died at Edinburgh in
Feb. 1769.
Edgar‘s map shows the new meal market, a huge
quadrangular mass, with 150 feet front by 100 in
depth, immediately eastward of the Back Stairs.
This place was the scene of a serious not in 1763.
In November there had been a great scarcity of
meal, by which multitudes of the poor were reduced
to great suffering; hence, on the evening of the
zIst, a great mob proceeded to the gimels in the
meal market, carried off all that was there, rifled
the house of the keeper, and smashed all the furniture
that was not carried OK At midnight the
mob dispersed on the amval of some companies
of infantry from the Castle, to renew their riotous
proceedings, however, on the following day, when
they could only be suppressed “by the presence
of the Provost (George Drummond), bdies, trainband,
constables, party of *e military, and the
city guard.” Many of the unfortunate rioters
were captured at the point of the bayonet, and
lodged in the Castle, and the whole of the Scots
Greys were quartered in the Canongate and Leith
to enforce order, “ The magistrates of Edinburgh,
and Justices of Peace for the County of Midlothian,”
says the Norfh BnYish Magazine for I 763,
have since used every means to have this market
supplied effectually with meal ; but from whatever
cause it may proceed, certain it is that the scarcity
of oatmeal is still severely felt by every family who
have occasion to make use of that commodity.”
The archiepiscopal palace and the mint, which
were near each other, on this side of the street,
have already been described (Vol. I., pp. 262-4;
267-270); but one of the old features of the locality
still remaining unchanged is the large old
gateway, recessed back, which gave access to the
extensive pleasure-grounds attached to the residence
of the Marquises of Tweeddale, and which seem to
have measured 300 feet in length by 250 in breadth,
and been overlooked in the north-west angle by the
beautiful old mansion of the Earls of Selkirk, the
basement of which was a series of elliptical arcades.
These pleasure grounds ascended from the street
to the windows of Tweeddale House, by a succession
of terraces, and were thickly planted on the
east and west with belts of trees. In Gordon’s
map for 1647, the whole of this open area had
been-what it is now Secoming again-covered
by masses of building, the greatest portion of it
being occupied by a huge church, that has had, at
various times, no less than three different congregations,
an Episcopal, Presbyterian, and, finally,
a Catholic one.
For a few years before 1688 Episcopacy was
the form of Church government in Scotlandillegally
thrust upon the people; but the selfconstituted
Convention, which transferred the
crown to William and Mary, re-established the
Presbyterian Church, abolishing the former, which
consisted of fourteen bishops, two archbishops,
and go0 clergymen. An Act of the Legislature
ordered these to conform to the new order of
things, or abandon their livings; but though expelled
from these, they. continued to officiate
privately to those who were disposed to attend to
their ministrations, notwithstanding the penal laws
enacted against them-laws which William, who
detested Presbyterianism, and was an uncovenanted
King,” intended to repeal if he had
lived. The title of archbishop was dropp’ed by
the scattered few, though a bishop was elected
with the title Primus, to regulate the religious
affairs of the community. There existed another
body attached to the same mode of worship,
composed of those who favoured the principles
which occasioned the Revolution in Scotland,
and,adopting the ritual of the Church of England,
were supplied With clergy ordained by bishops of
that country. Two distinct bodies thus existeddesignated
by the name of Non-jurants, as declining
the oaths to the new Government The first
of these bodies-unacknowledged as a legal
association, whose pastors were appointed by
bishops, who acknowledged only the authority of
their exiled king, who refused to take the oaths
prescribed by lam; and omitted all mention of the
House of Hanover in their prayers-were made
the subject of several penal statutes by that
House.
An Episcopal chapel, whose minister was qualified ... OLD AND NEW EDINEURGH. [Cowgate. showed that the barrel had been placed so as to collect the rain water from ...

Vol. 4  p. 246 (Rel. 0.23)

3 40 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Moredun.
and a father, his afflicted widow and daughters
erect this memorial of affection and regret.”
He designed and erected the column of Lord
Hill, at Hawkstone, near Shrewsbury.
Adjoining the Stenhouse is Moredun, the property
of Misses Anderson, of old called Goodtrees,
when it belonged to a family named Stewart.
It is now remarkable for its holly hedges, which
are of great height.
tish, Roman, and English laws. He married
Agnes, daughter of Trail of Blebo, by whom he
had several children. He took an active part in
the Revolution of 1688, and became Lord Advocate
in 1689. He was made a baronet of Nova
Scotia in 1695, according to Burke-in 1705,
according to Beatson-and attained the reputation
of being one of the most able and acute lawyers of
his time, and of this his “Answer to Dirleton’s
Doubts ” is considered a proof. From his nephew,
INCH HOUSE.
In the middle of the seventeenth century Goodtrees
belonged to a family named McCulloch, which
ended in an only daughter and heiress, Marion,
widow of Sir John Elliot, who married, in 1648, Sir
James Stewart of Coltness (a son of Stewart of Allanton),
who was twice Provost of Edinburgh, in 1649
‘ and 1659, but was dismissed from office at the Restoration
as a Covenanter, and was even committed
to the Castle. By this marriage he acquired the
estate of Goodtrees, and, dying in 1681, was succeeded
in Coltness by his eldest son, Sir Thomas
Stewart (a baronet of 1698), while Goodtrees
passed by bequest to his fourth son, James.
The latter was bred an advocate, and early distinguished
himself by his knowledge of the Scot-
Sir David Stewart, he purchased the estate of Coltness
in 17 I 2, and, dying in the following year, was
succeeded by his son, Sir James Stewart, Bart., of
Goodtrees and Coltness.
The latter, who was born in 1681, married, ic
1705, Anne, daughter of Sir Hew Dalrymple of
North Berwick, Lord President of the Court ot
Session. Like his father, he was a distinguished advocate.
He became Solicitor-General for Scotland,
and in 1713 was returned to Parliament as member
for Midlothian. He died in 1727, and was succeeded
by his only son, Sir James Stewart of Goodtrees,
who was the most remarkable man of the
family, and eminent as a writer on political economy-
He was born on the loth of October (old style), ... 40 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Moredun. and a father, his afflicted widow and daughters erect this memorial of ...

Vol. 6  p. 340 (Rel. 0.23)

rrs PRISONERS. 7 127 The Talbooth.]
was sitting in the Tolbooth hearing the case of the
Laud of Craigmillar, who was suing a divorce
against his wife, the Earl of Bothwell forcibly
dragged out one of the most important witnesses,
and carrying him to his castle of Cricliton, eleven
miles distant, threatened to hang him if he uttered
a word.
On the charge of being a “ Papist,” among many
other prisoners in the Tolbooth in 1628, was the
Countess of Abercorn, where her health became
broken by confinement, and the misery of a
prison which, if it was loathsome in the reign of
George III., must have been something terrible in
the days orCharles I. In 1621 she obtained a
licence to go to the baths of Bristol, but failing
to leave the city, was lodged for six months in the
Canongate gaol. After she had been under restraint
in various places for three years, she was permitted
to remain ir. the earl’s house at Paisley, in March
1631, on condition that she “ reset no Jesuits,”
and to return if required under a penalty of 5,000
merks.
Taken seriatim, the records of the Tolbooth
contain volumes of entries made in the following
brief fashion :-
“1662, June 10.-John Kincaid put in ward
by warrant of the Lords of the Privy Council, for
‘ pricking of persons suspected of witchcraft anwarranfably.’
Liberated on finding caution not to
do so again.
“-June 10.-Robert Binning for falsehood ;
hanged with the false papers about his neck.
“--4ug. q.-Robert Reid for murder. His
head struck from his body at the mercat cross.
“- Dec. 4.-James Ridpath, tinker ; to be qhupitt
from Castle-hill to Netherbow, burned on the
cheek with the Toun’s common mark, and banished
the kicgdom, for the crime of double adultery.
‘‘ 1663, March ~g.-ATexander Kennedy; hanged
for raising false bonds and aritts.
“-March z I.-Aucht Qwakers; liberated, certifying
if again troubling the place, the next prison
shall be the Correction House.
“- July 8.-Katherine Reid ; hanged for
theft.
“-July &--Sir Archibald Johnston of Wamston;
treason. Hanged, his head cut off and placed
on the Netherbow.
“ - July I 8.-Bessie Brebner ; hansed for
murder.
‘I -Aug. zS.-The Provost of Kirkcudbright ;
banished for keeping his house during a tumult.
“ - Oct. 5.-William Dodds ; beheaded for
murder.”
And so on in grim monotony, till we come to
the last five entries in the old record, which is
quite incomplete.
1728, Oct. zs.-John Gibson; forging a
declaration, 18th January, 1727. His lug nailed
to the Tron, and dismissed.
‘( 1751, March 18.-Helen Torrance :md Jean
Waldie were executed this day, for stealing a child,
eight or nine years of age, and selling its body to
the surgeons for dissection. Alive on Tuesday when
carried OK, and dead on Friday, with an incision in
the belly, but sewn up again.
“ I 7 5 6, May 4.-Sir William Dalrymple of Cousland;
for shooting at Capt. Hen. Dalrymple of
Fordell, with a pistol at the Cross of Edinburgh.
Liberated’on 14th May, on bail for 6,000 merks,
to answer any complaint.
“ 1752, Jan. 10.-Norman Ross ; hanged and
hung in chains between Leith and Edinburgh, for
issassinating Lady Bailie, sister to Home of
Wedderburn.
‘ I 1757, Feb. 4.-Janies Rose, Excise Officer at
Muthill ; banished to America for forging receipts
for arrears.”
It was a peculiarity of the Tolbooth, that through
clanship, or some other influence, nearly every
criminal of rank confined in it achieved an escape.
Robert fourth Lord Burleigh, a half insane peer,
who was one of the commissioners for executing
the office of Lord Register in 1689, and who
married a daughter of the Earl of hfelville about
the time of the Union, assassinated a schoolmaster
who had married a girl to whom he had paid improper
addresses, was committed to the Tolbooth,
and sentenced to death; and of his first attempt
to escape the following story is told He was
carried out of the prison in a large trunk, to be
conveyed to Leith, on the back of a powerful
porter, who was to put hini on board a vessel
about to sail for the Continent. It chanced that
when slinging the trunk on his back, the porter
did so with Lord Burleigh‘s head doiwnnmost, thus
it had to sustain the weight of his whole body.
The posture was agony, the way long and rough,
but life was dear. Unconscious of his actual
burden, the porter reached the Netherbow Port,
where an acquaintance asked him “whither he
was going?” ‘:TO Leith,” was the reply. “ Is the
work good enough to afford a glass before going
farther?” was the next question. The porter said
it was; and tossed down the trunk with such
violence that it elicited a scream from Lord Burleigh,
who instantly fainted.
Scared and astounded, the porter wrenched open
the trunk, when its luckless inmate was found
cramped, doubled-up, and senseless. A crowd ... PRISONERS. 7 127 The Talbooth.] was sitting in the Tolbooth hearing the case of the Laud of Craigmillar, who ...

Vol. 1  p. 127 (Rel. 0.23)

University. 1 A COMMISSION OF INQUIRY. ‘3
one with a dark lantern ; but notwithstanding that
a pardon and zoo merks (about 6110 sterling)
were offered by the Privy Council to any who
would discover the perpetrators of this outrage,
they were never detected.
The gates of the college were ordered to be shut,
and the students to retire at least fifteen miles
distant from the city; but in ten days they were
permitted to return, upon their friends becoming
caution for their peaceable behaviour, and the
gates were again thrown open ; but all students
“ above the Semi-class ” were ordered by the Privy
Council to take the oaths of allegiance and supremacy,
and go regularly to the parish churches ;
but, says Fountainhall, ‘‘ there were few or none
who gave thu conditions.”
-the seat of Sir Jarnes Dick, Lord Provost, the
family being in town-was deliberately set in flames
by fire-balls, and burned to the ground, with all
its furniture.
A barrel ha.Y full of combustible materials, and
bearing, it was said, the Castle mark, was found in
the adjacent park, and several people deposed
that on the night of the conflagration they saw
many young men going towards the house of
Priestfield with unlighted links in their hands, and
’
repress faction and panish disorder ; to correspond
with the other Scottish Universities, so that a uniformity
of discipline might be adopted; and to
report fully on all these matters before the 1st of
November, 1683. “What the visitors did in
consequence of this appointment,” says Amot,
“ we are not able to ascertain.”
As this visitation was to be for the suppression
of fanaticism, upon the accomplishment of the
Revolution a Parliamentary one was ordered of all
the universities in Scotland by an Act of William
and Mary, ‘‘ with the purpose to remove and
’ oppress such as continued attached to the hierarchy
or the House of Stuart. From such specimens
of their conduct in a visitorial capacity as we have
been able to discover, we are entitled to say,” re-
To prevent a recurrence of such outbreaks,
Charles 11. appointed a visitation of the university,
naming the great officers of state, the bishop, Lord
Provost, and magistrates of the city, and certain
others, of whom five, with the bishop and Lord
Provost should be a quorum, to inquire into the
condition of the college, its revenues, privileges, and
buildings; to examine if the laws of the realm, the
Church government, and the old rules of discipline
were observed j to arrange the methods of study; to
PART OF THE BUILDINGS OF THE saum SIDE OF THE QUADRANGLE OF THE OLD UNIVERSITY.
(From am Engraving ay W. H. Lienn of a Drawing ay Payfair.) ... 1 A COMMISSION OF INQUIRY. ‘3 one with a dark lantern ; but notwithstanding that a pardon and zoo ...

Vol. 5  p. 13 (Rel. 0.23)

Koslin.] THE THREE BATTLES ON ONE DAY. 351
hillside, and not beneath, but is attached to its
eastern end, the means of communication between
the two being by a steep descent of steps. Its use
has sorely puzzled antiquaries, though it forms a
handsome little chapel, with ribbed arches and roof
of stone. Under its eastern window is an altar, and
there is a piscina and anibry for the sacramental
plate, together with a comfortable fireplace and a
rob+ of closets.
‘‘ Its domestic appurtenances,” says a writer,
clearly- show. it. to have been the <house of: the
priestvrcustodier of the chapel, and the ecclesiastical’types
first named were for his private nieditation
; and thus the puzzle ceases.”
Near the,chapel is St, Mathew’s Well. The
parish of Roslin possesses many relics and traditions
of the famous three battles which were fought
there in one day-the 24th of February, 1302 :-
“ Three triumphs in a day,
Three hosts subdued in one,
Beneath one common sun !”
Three armies scattered like the spray
On the 26th of January, 1302, the cruel and
treacherous Edward I. of England concluded a
treaty of truce-not peace-with Scotland, while,
on the other hand, he prepared to renew the war
against her. To this end he marched in an army
of 2o,ooo--Some say 30,ooo-men, chiefly cavalry,
under Sir John de Segrave, with orders’less to
fight than to waste and devastate the already wasted
country.
To obtain ptovisions with more ease, Segrave
marched his force in three columns, each a mile or
two apart, and the 24th of February saw them on
the north bank of the Esk, at three places, still
indicated by crossed swords on the county map ;
the first at Roslin ; the second . at Loanhead, on
high ground, still named, from the battle, “ Killrig,”
north of the village ; and the third at Park Bum,
near Gilmerton Grange.
Meanwhile, Sir John Comyn, Guardian of the
Kingdom, and Sir Simon Fraser of Oliver Castle
(the friend and comrade of Wallace), Heritable
Sheriff of Tweeddale, after mustering a force of
only 8,000 men-but men carefully selected and
well armed-marched from Biggar in the night,
and in the dull grey light of the February morning,
in the wooded glen near Roslin Castle, came
suddenly on the first column, under Segrave.
Animated by a just thirst for vengeance, the
Scots made a furious attack, and Segrave was
rapidly routed, wounded, and taken prisoner, together
with his brother, his son, sixteen knights,
and thirty esquires, called sergeants by the rhyming
English chronicler Langtoft.
.
The contest was barely over when the second
column, alarmed by the fugitives, advanced from its
camp at Loanhead, ‘‘ and weary though the Scots
were with their forced night march, flushed with
their first success, and full of the most rancorous
hate of their invaders, they rushed to the charge,
and though the conflict was fiercer, were victorious.
A vast quantity of pillage fell into their hands,
together with Sir Ralph the Cofferer, a paymaster
of the English army.”
The second victory had barely been achieved,
when the third division, under Sir Robert Neville,
with all its arms and armour glittering in the
morning sun, came in sight, advancing from the
neighbourhood of Gilmerton, at a time when
many of the Scots had laid aside a portion of their
arms and helmets, and were preparing some to eat,
and others to sleep.
Frase; and Comyn at first thought of retiring,
but that was impracticable, as Neville was so close
upon, them. They flew from rank to rank, says
Tytler, “and having equipped the camp followers
in the arms of their slain enemies, they made a
furious charge on the English, and routed them
with great slaughter.”
Before the second and third encounters took
place, old historians state that the Scots had recourse
to the cruel practice of slaying their prisoners,
which was likely enough in keeping with the spirit
with which the wanton English war was conducted
in those days. Sir Ralph the Cofferer begged Fraser
to spare his life, offering a large ransom for it.
“ Your coat of mail is no priestly habit,” replied
Sir Simon. “ Where is thine alb-where thy hood ?
Often have you robbed us all and done us grievous
wrong, and now is our time to sum up the account,
and exact strict payment.’’
With these words he hewed off the gauntleted
hands of the degraded priest, and then by one
stroke severed his head from his body.
Old English writers always attribute the glory of
the day to Wallace ; but he was not present. The
pursuit lasted sixteen miles, even as far as Biggar,
and 12,000 of the enemy perished, says Sir James
Balfour. English historians have attempted to
conceal the triple defeat of their countrymen on
this occasion. They state that Sir Robert Neville’s
division stayed behind to hear mass, and repelled the
third Scottish attack, adding that none who heard
mass that morning were slain. But, unfortunately
for this statement, Neville himself was among the
dead ; and Langtoft, in his very minute account of
the battle, admits that the English were utterly
routed.
Many places in the vicinity still bear names con-
. ... THE THREE BATTLES ON ONE DAY. 351 hillside, and not beneath, but is attached to its eastern end, the ...

Vol. 6  p. 351 (Rel. 0.23)

Holyrood. I KING DAVID’S CHARTER. 43
sake of trade ; and if it happen that they do no
come, I grant the aforesaid church from my ren
of Edinburgh forty shillings, from Stirling twentj
shillings, and from Perth forty shillings ; and ont
toft in Stirling, and the draught of one net foi
tishing ; and one toft in my Burgh of Edinburgh
free and quit of all custom and exaction ; and ont
toft in Berwick, and the draught of two nets ir
Scypwell ; one toft in Renfrew of five perches, tht
‘draught of one net for salmon, and to fish thert
for herrings freely ; and I forbid any one to exact
from you or your men any customs therefor.
‘‘ I moreover grant to the aforesaid canons from
my exchequer yearly ten pounds for the lights o
the church, for the works of that church, anc
repairing these works for ever. I charge, more
over, all my servants and foresters of Stirlingshirt
and Clackmannan, that the abbot and convent havt
free power in all my woods and forests, of taking
as much timber as they please for the building 01
their church and of their houses, and for any purpost
of theirs; and I enjoin that their men who take
timber for their use in the said woods have my
firm peace, and so that ye do not permit them tc
be disturbed in any way ; and the swine, the property
of the aforesaid church, I grant in all my
woods to be quit of pannage [food].
‘‘ I grant, moreover, to the aforesaid canons the
half of the fat, tallow, and hides of the slaughter 01
Edinburgh ; and a tithe of all the whales and seabeasts
which fall to me from Avon to Coldbrandspath;
and a tithe of all my pleas and gains from
Avon to Coldbrandspath ; and the half of my tithe
of cane, and of my pleas and gains of Cantyre and
Argyll ; and all the skins of rams, ewes, and lambs
of the castle and of Linlithgow which die of my
flock ; and eight chalders of malt and eight of meal,
with thirty *cart-loads of bush from Liberton ; and
one of my mills of Dean; and a tithe of the mill
of Liberton, and of Dean, and of the new mill of
*Edinburgh, and of Craggenemarf, as much as I
.have for the same in my domain, and as much as
JVuieth the White gave them of alms of the same
Crag. I
‘ ‘‘ I grant likewise to them leave to establish a
burgh between that church and my burgh.* And
. I grant that the burgesses have common right of
selling their wares and of buying in my market,
‘freely and quit of claim and custom, in like manner
.as my own burgesses ; and I forbid that any one
take in this burgh, bread, ale, or cloth, or any ware
-by force, or without consent of the burgesses. I
grant, moreover, that the canons be quit of toll
. Here them is no mention of the town of Hcr6Crgrrs, alleged to haw
occupied the site of the Canongate.
and of all custom in all my burghs and throughout
all my land: to wit, all things that they buy
and sell.
“And I forbid any one to take pledge on the
land of the Holy Rood, unless the abbot of that
place shall have refused to do right and justice. I
will, moreover, that they hold all that is above
written as freely and quietly as I hold my own
lands ; and I will that the abbot hold his court as
freely, fully, and honourably as the Bishop of St.
Andrews and the Abbots of Dunfermline and
Kelso hold their courts.
“Witnesses tRobert Bishop of St. Andrews,
John Bishop of Glasgow, Henry my son, William
my grandson, Edward the Chancellor, Ilerbert the
Chamberlain, Gillemichael the Earl, Gospatrick the
brother of Dolphin, Robert of Montague, Robert
of Burneville, Peter of Brus, Norman the Sheriff,
Oggu, Leising, Gillise, William of Grahani, Turston
of Crechtune, Blein the Archdeacon, Aelfric the
Chaplain, Walerain the Chaplain.” l-
This document is interesting from its simplicity,
and curious as mentioning mzny places still known
under the same names. 1
The canons regular of the order of St. Augustine
were brought there from St. Andrews in Fifeshire.
The order was first established in Scotlayd
by Alexander I. in 1114, and ere long possessed
twenty-eight monasteries or foundations in tqe
So, in process of time, ‘‘ in the hollow betweqn
two hills ” where King David was saved from the
white hart, there rose the great abbey house,
with its stately cruciform church, having three
:ewers, of which but a fragment now remainsT
i melancholy ruin. Till its completion the canods
Mere housed in the Castle, where they resided till
rbout 1176, occupying an edifice which had preiliously
been a nunnery.
The southern aisle of the nave is the only part
if the church on which a roof remains, and of the
whole range of beautifully clustered pillars on the
iorth side but two fragments alone survive. The
mtire ruin retains numerous traces of the original
vork of the twelfth century, though enriched by
he additions of subsequent ages. With reference
o the view of it in the old print which has been
:opied in these pages,$ it has been observed
hat therein “the abbey church appears with a
econd square tower, uniform with the one still
tanding at the north of the great doorway. The
ransepts are about the usual proportions, but the
:hoir is much shorter than it is proved from other
kingdom. I
-
t “Charters relatiagta Cityof E&bwgh,“&u xr43-x5+ao. 4ta. 1871.
f see ante, vol. i, p. 5. ... I KING DAVID’S CHARTER. 43 sake of trade ; and if it happen that they do no come, I grant the aforesaid ...

Vol. 3  p. 42 (Rel. 0.23)

The West Bow.] MAJOR WEIR’S HOUSE. 3 13
an extraordinary quantity of yarn, in the time that
it would have taken four women to do so.
At the place of execution in the Grassmarket a
frenzy seized her, and the wretched old creature
began to rend her garments, in order, as she
shrieked, that she might die ‘‘ with all the shame
she could ! ”
Undeterred by her fate, ten other old women
were in the same year burned in Edinburgh for
alleged dabbling in witchcraft.
flaming torches, as if a multitude of people were
there, all laughing merrily. “This sight, at so
dead a time of night, no people being in the windows
belonging to the close, made her and her
servant haste home, declaring all that they saw to
the rest of the family.”
“For upwards of a century after Major Weir‘s
death he continued to be the bugbear of the Bow,
and his house remained uninhabited. His apparition,”
says Chambers, ‘‘ was frequently seen at
MAJOR WEIR’S LAND.
(Fmm a Measrrrrd Drawing by Thomas HamiZton, #idZiskcd in 183a)
The reverend Professor who compiled “ Satan’s
Invisible World,” relates that a few nights before
the major made his astounding confession, the
wife of a neighbour, when descending from the
Castle Hill towards the Bow-head, saw three
women in different windows, shouting, laughing,
and clapping their hands. She passed on, and
when abreast of Major Weir’s door, she saw a
woman of twice mortal stature arise from the street.
Filled with great fear, she desired her maid, who
bore a lantern, to hasten on, but the tall spectre
still kept ahead of them, uttering shouts of “unmeasurable
laughter,” till they came to the narrow
alley called the Stinking Close, into which the
spectre turned, and which was seen to be full of
40
night, flitting like a black and silent shadow about
the street. His house, though known to be deserted
by everything human, was sometimes observed at
midnight to be full of lights, and heard to emit
strange sounds, as of dancing, howling, and, what
is strangest of all, spinning. Some people occasionally
saw the major issue from the low close at
midnight, mounted on a black horse without a
head, and gallop off in a whirlwind of flame. Nay,
sometimes the whole inhabitants of the Bow would
be roused from their sleep at an early hour in the
morning by the sound of a coach and six, first
rattling up the Lawnmarket, and then thundering
down the Bow, stopping at the head of the terrible
close for a few minutes, and then rattling and ... West Bow.] MAJOR WEIR’S HOUSE. 3 13 an extraordinary quantity of yarn, in the time that it would have taken ...

Vol. 2  p. 313 (Rel. 0.23)

224 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Weat Port.
~~ ~
the dreadful Irish murders in 1828; but its repute
was very different in the last century. Thus we find
in the Edinburgh papers for 1764, advertisedas to let
there, " the new-built house, beautifully situated on
the high ground south of the Portsburgh, commanding
an extensive prospect every way, with genteel
furniture, perfectly clean, presently possessed by
John Macdonald, Esq., of Lairgie," with chaisehouse
and stabling.
remained intact up till SO recently as 1881, while
around the large cupola and above the chief seat
were panels of coats of arms of the various city
crafts, and that also of the Portsburgh-all done in
oil, and in perfect condition. This court-room was
situated in the West Port. In its last days it was
rented from the city chamberlain by the deacons'
court of Dr. Chalmers' Territorial Church. Mission
meetings and Sunday-schools were held in it, but
OLD HOUSES IN THE WEST PORT, NEAR THE HAUNTS OF BURKE AND HARE, 1869
(Fsmn a Drawing Sy Mn. J. Stnvari Smith.)
Near the Territorial Church is a door above
which are the arms of the Cordiners of the Portsburgh-
a cordiner's cutting-knife crowned, within a
circle, with the heads of two winged cherubim, and
the words of Psalm 133, versified :-
" Behold how good a thing it is,
And how becoming well,
Together such as brethren are,
In unity to dwell.
I 696. "
One of the most complete of the few rare relics
of the City's old municipal institutions was the
court-room where the bailies of the ancient
Portsburgh discharged their official duties. The
bailies' bench, seats, and other court-room fittings
the site upon &hich it was built was sold by
roup for city improvements.
In the middle of the West Port, immediately
opposite the Chalmers Territorial Free Church
and Schools, and running due north, is a narrow
alley, called the Chapel Wynd. Heye, at the foot
thereof, stood in ancient times a chapel dedicated
to the Virgin Mary, some remains of which were
visible in the time of Maitland about 1750. Near
it is another alley-probably an access to itnamed
the Lady Wynd. Between this chapel and
the Castle Rock there exists, in name chiefly, an
ancient appendage of the royal palace in the
fortress-the king's stables, " although no hoof of
the royal stud has been there for well-nigh three
I ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Weat Port. ~~ ~ the dreadful Irish murders in 1828; but its repute was very ...

Vol. 4  p. 224 (Rel. 0.23)

Rase Street.] HUG0 ARNOT. ‘59
announced that Bailie Creech, of literary celebrity,
was about to lead Miss Burns of Rose Street ‘‘ to
the hymeneal altar.” In hiswrath, Creech threatened
an action against the editor, whose contradiction
made matters worse :-“ In a former number we
noticed the intended marriage between Bailie
Creech of Edinburgh and the beautiful Miss Bums
of the same place. We have now the authority of
that gentleman to say that the proposed marriage
is not to take place, matters having been otherwise
arranged, to the mutual satisfaction of both parties
and their respective friends.” After a few years of
unenviable notoriety, says the editor of *‘ Kay,”
Miss Burns fell into a decline, and died in 1792 at
Roslin, where a stone in the churchyard records
her name and the date of her demise.
In the same year of this squabble we find a
ball advertised in connection with the now unfashionable
locality of Rose Street, thus :-“ Mr.
Sealey (teacher of dancing) begs to acquaint his
friends and the public that his ball is iixed for the
20th of March next, and that in order to accommodate
his scholars in the New Town, he proposes
opening a school in Rose Street, Young’s Land,
opposite to the Physicians’ Hall, the 24th of that
month, where he intends to teach on Tuesdays
and Fridays from nine in the morning, and the
remainder of the week at his school in Foulis’s
Close, as formerly.” In 1796 we find among
its residents Sir Samuel Egerton Leigh, Knight, of
South Carolina, whose lady “ was safely delivered
of a son on Wednesday morning (16th March) at
her lodgings in Rose Street.”
Sir Samuel was the second son of Sir Egerton
high, His Majesty’s AttorneyGenerd for South
Carolina, and he died at Edinburgh in the ensuing
January. He had a sister, married to the youngest
brother of Sir Thomas Burnet of Leya
This son, born at Edinburgh in 1796, succeeded
in ISIS to the baronetcy, on the death of his uncle,
Sir Egerton, who married Theodosia (relict of
Captain John Donellan), daughter of Sir Edward,
and sister of Sir Theodosius Edward Boughton,
for the murder of whom by poison the captain was
executed at Warwick in 1781,
It was in Dr. John Brown’s Chapel in Rose
Street, that Robert Pollok, the well-known author
of “The Course of Time,” who was a licentiate of
the United Secession Church, preached his only
sermon, and soon after ordination he was attacked
by that pulmonary disease of which he died in
1827.
In 1810 No. 82 was “Mrs. Bruce’s fashionable
boarding-school,” and many persons of the greatest
respectability occupied the common stairs, particularly
to the westward ; and in Thistle Street were
many residents of very good position.
Thus No. z was the house, in 1784, of Sir
John Gordon, Bart. ; and Sir Alexander Don, Bart.,
of Newton Don, lived in No. 4, when Lady Don
Dowager resided in No. 53, George Street (he had
been one of the d h u s in France who were seized
when passing through it during the short peace of
1802), and a Mrs. Colonel Ross occupied No. 17,
Under the name of Hill Street this thoroughfare
is continued westward, between Fredenck Street
and Castle Street, all the houses being “selfcontained.”
The Right Hon. Charles Hope of
Granton, Lord Justice Clerk, had his chambers in
No. 6 (now writers’ offices) in ~808 ; Buchanan of
Auchintorlie lived in No. I I, and Clark of Comrie
in No. 9, now also legal offices. In one of the houses
here resided, and was married in 1822, as mentioned
in Bkrckwoad’s Magazine for that year, Charles
Edward Stuart, styled latterly Count d’Albany
(whose son, the Carlist colonel, married a daughter
of the Earl of Errol), and who, with his brother, John
Sobieski Stuarf attracted much attention in the city
and Scotland generally, between that period and
1847, and of whom various accounts have been
given. They gave themselves out as the grandsons
of Charles Edward Stuart, but were said to be
the sons of a Captain Thomas Allan, R.N., and
grandsons of Admiral John Carter Allan, who died
in 1800.
Seven broad and handsome streets, running south
and north, intersect the great parallelogram of the
New Town. It was at the corner of one of those
streets-but which we are not told-that Robert
Burns first saw, in 1787, Mrs. Graham, so celebrated
for her wonderful beauty, and whose husband
commanded in the Castle of Stirling.
From the summit of the ridge, where each of
these streets cross George Street, are commanded
superb views : on one side the old town, and on
the other the northern New Town, and away to the
hills of Fife and Kinross.
According to “ Peter Williamson’s Directory,”
Hugo Arnot, the historian, had taken up his abode
in the Meuse Lane of South St. Andrew Street
in 1784. His own name was Pollock, but he
changed it to Arnot on succeeding to the estate of
Balcormo, in Fifeshire. In his fifteenth year hC
became afflicted with asthma, and through life was
reduced to the attenuation of a skeleton. Admitted
an advocate in 1772, he ever took a deep interest
in all local matters, and published various essays
thereon, and his exertions in promoting the
improvements then in progress in Edinburgh were
which is now the New Town dispensary. c ... Street.] HUG0 ARNOT. ‘59 announced that Bailie Creech, of literary celebrity, was about to lead Miss Burns ...

Vol. 3  p. 159 (Rel. 0.23)

Restalrig.] DRURY’S TREACHERY. x3.z
on it now. Here it probably was that the powerful
Archibald Douglas, fifth Earl of Douglas, Lord
of Bothwell, Galloway, and Annandale, Duke of
Touraine aud Marshal of France, resided in 1440,
in which year he died at Restalrig, of a malignant
fever.
In 1444 Sir John Logan of Restalrig was sheriff
of Edinburgh ; and in 1508 James Logan, of the
same place, was Sheriff-deputy.
Twenty-one years before the latter date an
calsay lyand, and the town desolate.” In the
following year, Holinshed records that “ the Lord
Grey, Lieutenant of the Inglis’ armie,” during the
siege of Leith, “ludged in the town of Lestalrike,
in the Dean’s house, and part of the Demi-lances
and other horsemen lay in the same towne.”
A little way north-westward of Restalrig, midway
between the place named Hawkhill and the upper
Quarry Holes, near the Easter Road, there occurred
on the 16th of June, 1571, a disastrous skirmish, de-
~
RESTALRIG CHURCH IN THE PRESENT DAYEnglish
army had encamped at Restalrig, under the
Duke of Gloucester, who spared the city at the
request of the Duke of Albany and on receiving
many rich presents fiom the citizens, while James
III., in the hand of rebel peers, was a species of
captive in the castle of Edinburgh.
In 1559 the then secluded village was the scene
of one of the many skirmishes that took place between
the troops of the Queen Regent and those
of the Lords of the Congregation, in which the
latter were baffled, “driven through the myre at
Restalrig-worried at the Craigingate ” (i.e., the
Calton), and on the 6th of November,’ “ at even
in the nycht,” they departed ‘‘ furth of Edinburgh
to Lynlithgow, and left their artailzerie on the
signated the BZack Saturday, or Drury’s peace,”
as it was sometimes named, through the alleged
treachery of the English ambassador.
Provoked by a bravado on the part of the Earl
of Morton, who held Leith, and who came forth
with horse and foot to the Hawkhill, the Earl of
Huntly, at the head of a body of Queen Mary‘s
followers, with a train of guns, issued out of Edinburgh,
and halted at the Quarry Holes, where he
was visited by Sir William Drury, the ambassador
of Queen Elizabeth, who had been with Morton in
Leith during the preceding night. His proposed
object was an amicable adjustment of differences,
to the end that no loss of life should ensue between
those who were countrymen, and, in too ... DRURY’S TREACHERY. x3.z on it now. Here it probably was that the powerful Archibald Douglas, fifth ...

Vol. 5  p. 133 (Rel. 0.23)

church was accordingly built for them, at the
expense, says h o t , of Az,400 sterling. A portion
of this consisted of zo,ooo merks, left, in 1649, by
Thomas Moodie, a citizen, called by some Sir
Thomas Moodie of Sauchtonhall, to rebuild the
church partially erected on the Castle -Hill, and
demolished by the English during the siege of 1650.
Two ministers were appointed to the Canongate
church. The well-known Dr. Hugh Blair and the
THE CANONGATE CHURCH.
splendid scabbard. This life is full of contrasts ; so
when the magistrates, in ermine and gold, took
their seats behind this sword of state in the front
gallery, on the right of the minister, and in the
gallery, too, were to be seen congregated the
humble paupers from the Canongate poorhouse,
now divested of its inmates and turned into a
hospital. Our dear old Canongate, too, had its
, Baron Bailie and Resident Bailies before the
late Principal Lee have been among the incumbents.
It is of a cruciform plan, and has the summit of
its ogee gable ornamented with the crest of the
burgh-the stag’s head and cross of King David’s
legendary adventure-and the arms of Thomas
Moodie form a prominent ornament in front of i t
“ In our young days,” says a recent writer in a local
paper, “the Incorporated Trades, eight in number,
occupied pews in the body of the church, these
having the names of the occupiers painted on them;
and in mid-summer, when the Town Council visited
it, as is still their wont, the tradesmen placed large
bouquets of flowers on their pews, and as our
sittings were near this display, we used to glance
with admiration from the flowers up to the great
sword standing erect in the front gallery in its
Reform Bill in 1832 ruthlessly swept them away.
Halberdiers, or Lochaber-axe-men, who turned out
on all public occasions to grace the officials, were
the civic body-guard, together with a body in plain
clothes, whose office is on the ground flat under
the debtors’ jail.”
But there still exists the convenery of the Canongate,
including weavers, dyers, and cloth-dressers,
&c., as incorporated by royal charter in 1630,
under Charles I.
In the burying-ground adjacent to the church,
and which was surrounded by trees in 1765, lie
the remainsof Dugald Stewart, the great philosopher,
of Adam Smith, who wrote the “Wealth of Nations
; ” Dr. Adam Fergusson, the historian of the
Roman Republic; Dr. Burney, author of the ... was accordingly built for them, at the expense, says h o t , of Az,400 sterling. A portion of this ...

Vol. 3  p. 29 (Rel. 0.23)

The Great Fire.] THE GREAT FIRE. 189
Assemlily Close, then occupied as a workshop by
Kirkwood, a well-known engraver. The engines
came promptly enough ; but, from some unknown
cause, an hour elapsed before they were in working
order, and by that time the terrible element had
raged with such fierceness and rapidity that, by
eleven o'clock the upper portion of this tenement,
including six storeys, forming the eastern 'division
of a uniform pile of buildings, was one mass of
roaring flames, which, as the breeze was from the
to their elevated position, or the roar of the gathering
conflagration, the shouts of the crowd, and
wailing of women and children, their cries were
unheard for a time, until it was too late. The
whole tenement was lost, together with extensive
ranges of buildings in the old Fish Market and
Assembly Closes, to -which it was the means of
communicating the flames.
While these tall and stately edifices were yielding
to destruction, the night grew calm and still, and
THE ROYAL EXCHANGE.
sooth-west, turned them, as they burst from the
gaping windows, in the direction of a house to the
eastward, the strong' gable of which saved it from
the destruction which seemed imminent.
Two tenements to the westward were less fortunate,
and as, from the narrowness of the ancient
close, it was impossible to work the engines, they
soon were involved in one frightful and appalling
blaze. Great fears mere now entertained for the
venerable Courant office; nor was it long before
the fire seized on its upper storey, at the very time
when some brave fellows got upon the roof of a
tenement to the westward, and shouted to the firemen
to give them a pipe, by which they could
piay upon the adjoining roof, But, owing either
I the sparks emitted by the flames shot upwards as if
spouted from a volcano, and descended like the
thickest drift or snow-storm, affecting the respiration
of all. A dusky, lurid red tinged the clouds,
and the glare shone on the Castle wdls, the
rocks of the Calton, the beetling crags, and all the
city spires. Scores of lofty chimneys, set on fire
by the falling sparks, added to the growing horror
of the scene ; and for a considerable time the Tron
Church was completely enveloped in this perilous
shower of embers.
About one in the morning of the 16th the alarm
of fire was given from a house directly oppoife to
the burning masses, and, though groundless, it
added to the deepening Consternation. Mean ... Great Fire.] THE GREAT FIRE. 189 Assemlily Close, then occupied as a workshop by Kirkwood, a well-known ...

Vol. 1  p. 189 (Rel. 0.23)

132 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [West Church.
the 27th October, 1592, by ‘(the hail1 elderes, deacones,
and honest men of ye parochin . . . .
quha hes agreit, all in ane voice, that in all tymes
coming, thair be ane preaching everie Thursday,
and that it begin at nyne hours in ye morning, and
ye officer of ye kirk to gang with ye bell at aught
hours betwixt the Bow Fut and the Toun-end.”
This Thursday sermon was kept up until the middle
of the eighteenth century. The ‘‘ toun-end ” is
supposed to mean Fountain Bridge, sometimes of
old called the Causeway-end.
. In 1589 the Kirk Session ordained that none in
the parish should have ‘‘ yair bairnes ” baptised,
admitted to mamage, repentance, or alms, but
those who could repeat the Lord‘s Prayer, the
Belief, and the Commandments, and “gif ane
compt yair of, quhen yai ar examinet, and yis to be
publishit in ye polpete.” In the following year a
copy of the Confession of Faith and the National
Covenant was subscribed by the whole parish.
From the proximity of the church to the castle,
in the frequent sieges sustained by the latter, the
former suffered considerably, particularly after the
invention of artillery. At the Reformation it had
a roof of thatch, probably replacing a former one
of stone. The thatch was renewed in 1590, and
new windows and a loft were introduced; two
parts of the expense were borne by the parish, the
other by Adam, Bishop of Orkney, a taxation
which he vehemently contested. Among other
additions to the church was “a pillar for adulterers,”
built by John Howieson and John Gaims in August,
1591. The thatch was removedand theroof slated.
In 1594 a manse adjoining the church was built
for Mr. Robert Pont, on the ‘site of the present
one, into which is inserted an ancient fragment of
the former, inscribed-
RELIGIOXI ET POSTERIS
IN MINISTERIO.
S.R. P. G. A. 1594
The burying-ground in those days was confined
to the rising slope south-west of the church, and
as “ nolt, horse, and scheipe ” were in the habit
of grazing there, the wall being in ruins, it was
repaired in 1597. The beadle preceded all funerals
with a hand-bell-a practice continued in the
eighteenth century.
-In consequence of the advanced age of Messrs.
Pont and Aird, a third minister, hlr. Richard
Dickson, was appointed to the parish in May, 1600,
and in 1606 communion was given on three successive
Sundays. On the 8th of May that year the
venerable Mr. Pont passed from the scene of his
labours,and is supposed to have been interred within
the church. To his memory a stone was erected,
which, when the present edifice was built, was removed
to the Rev. Mr. Williamson’s tomb on the
high ground, in which position it yet remains.
His colleague, Mr. Aircl, survived hini but a few
months, and their succkssors, Messrs. Dickson and
Arthur, became embroiled with the Assembly in
16 I 9 for celebrating communion to the people
seated at a table, preventing them from kneeling,
as superstitious and idolatrous. Mr. Dickson was
ordered “to enter his person in ward within the
Castle of Dumbarton,” and .Mr. Arthur to give
communion to the people on their knees ; but he
and the people declined to “‘comply with a practice
so nearly allied to popery.” Mr. Dickson was
expelled in 1620, but Mr. Arthur was permitted to
remain. Among those who were sitters in the
church at this time were Williani Napier, of the
Wrytes house, and his more illustrious kinsman,
John Napier, of Merchiston, the inventor of logarithms,
whose “dasks,” or seats, seem to have
been close together.
The old church, like that of Duddingstone, was
furnished with iron jougs, in which it appears that
Margaret Dalgleish was compelled to figure on the
23rd of April, 1612, for her scandalous behaviour;
and in 1622, John Reid, “poltriman,” was publicly
rebuked in church for plucking “geiss upon the
Lord his Sabbath, in tyme of sermon.”
We are told in the “ History of the West Church,”
that “ in 1622 it was deemed proper to have a bell
hung in the stekple, if the old ruinous fabric which
stood between the old and new kirks might be so
called,” for a new church had been added at the
close of the sixteenth century. In 1618 new communion
cups of silver were procured. “They were
then of a very peculiar shape, being six inches in
height, gilt, and beautifully chased; but the cup
itself, which was plated, was only two inches
deep and twenty-four in circumference, not unlike
a small soupplate affixed to the stalk of a candlestick.
On the bottom was engraved the following
sentence :-I wiz fa& flse COVJ of saZvafimnc and caZ
@one fhe name of fh b ~ d I I 6 PsZm. I 6 I 9 ; and
around the rim of the cup these words :-Fw fire
Vmf Kirk ovfvith EdinhrgAe.”
The year 1650 saw the church again imperilled
by war. Its records bear, on the 28th July in that
year, that “ No sessione was keiped in the monthe
of August, because there lay ane companie at the
church,” the seats of which had been destroyed
and the sessioners dispersed, partly by the army
of Cromwell, which lay on the south side of the
parish, and that of the Scots, which lay on the
north; and on the 13th of that month, after
Cromwell’s retreat to Dunbar, the commission of ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [West Church. the 27th October, 1592, by ‘(the hail1 elderes, deacones, and honest men ...

Vol. 3  p. 132 (Rel. 0.23)

men of rank, another plot to storm it, at a time
when its garrison was the nsth, or old regiment of
Edinburgh, was formed by Lord John Drummond,
son of the Earl of Perth, with eighty men, mostly
Highlanders, and all of resolute courage. All these
-among whom was a Captain McLean, who had
lost a leg at Killiecrankie, and an Ensign Arthur,
late of the Scots Guards-were promised commissions
under King James, and IOO guineas each, if
ROYAL LODGING AND HALF-MOON BATTERY.
when the plot was marred by-a lady !
In the exultation he felt at the approaching
capture, and the hope he had of lighting the beacon
which was to announce to Fife and the far north
that the Castle was won, Ensign Arthur unfolded
the scheme to his brother, a physician in the city,
who volunteered for the enterprise, but most prudently
told his wife of it, and she, alarmed for his
safety, at once gave information to the Lord Justice
the event succeeded ; and at that crisis-when Mar
was about to fight the battle of Sheriffmuir-it
might have put him in possession of all Scotland.
Drummond contrived to suborn four of the garrison
-a sergeant, Ainslie, to whom he promised a
lieutenancy, a corporal, who was to be made an
ensign, and two privates, who got bribes in money.
On the night of the 8th September, when the
troops marched from the city to fight the Earl of
Mar, the attempt was made. The chosen time,
near twelve o'clock, was dark and stormy, and the
ilrodlcs operandi was to be by escalading the western
walls, near the ancient arched postern. A ladder,
equipped with great hooks to fix it to the cope of
the bastion, and calculated to admit four men
Clerk, Sir Adam Cockburn of Ormiston, who instantly
put himself in communication with Colonel
Stuart. Thus, by the time the conspirators were
at the foot of the wall the whole garrison was
under arms, the sentinels were doubled, and the
ramparts patrolled.
The first party of forty men, led by the resolute
Lord Drummond and the wooden-legged McLean,
had reached the foot of the wall unseen ; already
the ladder had been secured by Sergeant Ainslie,
and the escalade was in the act of ascending, with
pistols in their girdles and swords in their teeth,
when a Lieutenant Lindesay passed with his patrol,
and instantly gave an alarm I The ladder and all
on it fell heavily on the rocks below. A sentinel ... of rank, another plot to storm it, at a time when its garrison was the nsth, or old regiment of Edinburgh, ...

Vol. 1  p. 68 (Rel. 0.23)

High Street.] EDINBURGH IN 1598 AND 1618. I99
is bought by courtiers, gentlemen, and the best
sort of citizens. They drink pure,aines, not with
sugar, as we English, yet at feasts they put comfits
in the wine, after the French manner; but they
had not our vintner’s fraud to mix their wines.
*‘ I did not see nor hear that they have any public
inns, with signs hanging out ; but the better sort of
‘ citizens brew ale (which will distemper a stranger’s
body), and then some citizens will entertain passengers
upon acquaintance or entreaty (i.e., introductioh).
Their bedsteads were then like cupboards
in the wall (i.e., box beds), to be opened and shut
at pleasure, so we climbed up to our beds. They
used but one sheet, open at the sides and top, but
close at the feet. When passengers go to bed, their
custom is to present them a sleeping cup of wine
at parting. The country people and merchants
used to drink largely, the gentlemen somewhat
more sparingly; yet the very courtiers, by nightmeetings
and entertaining any strangers, used to
drink healths, not without excess ; and to speak the
truth without offence, the excess of drinking was
far greater among the Scots than the English.
*‘ Myself being at the Court was invited by some
gentlemen to supper, and being forewarned to fear
this excess, would not promise to sup with them
but upon*condition that my inviter would be my
protection from large drinking. . . . The husbandmen
in Scotland, the servants, and almost all
the country, did wear coarse cloth made at home,
of grey or sky colour, and flat blew caps, very
broad. The merchants in cities were attired in
English or French cloth, of pale colour, or mingled
black and blew. The gentlemen did wear English
cloth or silk, or light stuffs, little or nothing adorned
with silk lace, much less with silver or gold ; and
all followed the French fashion, especially at
Court.
“Gentlewomen married did wear close upper
bodies, after the German manner, with large whalebone
sleeves, after the French manner; short
cloaks like the Germans, French hoods, and large
falling bands about their necks. The unmarried of
all sorts (?) did go bareheaded, and wear short
cloaks, with close linen sleeves on their arms, like
the virgins of Germany. The inferior sort of
citizen’s wives and the women of the country did
wear cloaks ,made of a coarse stuff, of two or three
colours, in checker work, vulgarly called jZodun
(i.e., tartan plaiding).
“To conclude, they would not at this time be
attired after the English fashion in any sort; but
the men, especially at Court, followed the French
fashion ; and the women, both in Court and city,
as well -in cloaks as naked heads and close
sleeves on the arms, and all other garments, follow
the fashion of the women in Germany.”
On the 20th of June, 1610, the Lord Provost of
Edinburgh exhibited to his Council two gowns, one
black, the other red, trimmed with sable, the gift
of King James, as patterns of the robes to be worn
by him and the bailies of the city; and in 1667
Charles 11. gave Sir Alexander Ramsay, Provost in
that year, a letter, stating that the chief magistrate
of Edinburgh should have the same precedence in
Scotland as the Mayor of London has in England,
and that no other provost should have the title of
‘I Lord Provost ”-a privilege which has, however,
since been modified.
l h e attention of King James, who never forgot
the interests of his native city, was drawn in 1618
to two abuses in its police. Notwithstanding the
warning given by the fire of 1584, it was still cus
tomary for “baxters and browsters” (i.e., bakers
and brewers) to keep great stacks of heather, whins,
and peatq in the very heart of the High Street and
other thoroughfares, to the great hazard of all adjacent
buildings, and many who were disposed to
erect houses within the walls were deterred from
doing so by the risks to be run ; while, moreover,
candle-makers and butchers were allowed to pursue
their avocations within the city, to the disgust and
annoeance of civil and honest neighbours, and of
the nobility and country people,” who came in
about their private affairs, and thus a royal procla-
.mation was issued against these abuses. The idea
of a cleaning department.of police never occurred
to the good folks of those days ; hence, in the following
year, the plan adopted was that each inhabitant
should keep clean that part of each street
before his own bounds.
In 1618 Edinburgh was visited by Taylor the
Water Poet, and his description of it is as truthful
as it is amusing :-“ So, leaving the castle, as it is
both defensive against any opposition and magnifick
for lodging and receipt, I descended lower to
the city, wherein I observed the fairest and goodliest
street mine eyes ever beheld, for I did
never see or hear of a street of that length (which
is half a mile English from the castle to a fair port,
which they call the Nether Bow); and from that
port the street which they call the Kenny-gate
(Canongate) is one quarter of a mile more, down
to the king’s palace, called Holyrood House ; the
buildings on each side of the way being all of
squared stone, five, six, and seven storeys high, and
many bye-lanes and closes on each side of the way,
wherein are gentlemen’s houses, much fairer than
the buildings in the High Street, fur in the High
Street the merchants and tradesmen. do dwell, but ... Street.] EDINBURGH IN 1598 AND 1618. I99 is bought by courtiers, gentlemen, and the best sort of citizens. ...

Vol. 2  p. 199 (Rel. 0.23)

I 2 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [University.
posts, and make the Grassmarket their headquarters.
The City Militia held the High Street,
a guard was placed on the college, and the guards
at the palace were doubled.
Undismayed by all this, the students mustered
in the Old High School Yard, with their effigy in
pontifical robes, and proceeded without opposition
down the High School Wynd, and up Blackfriars
Wynd to the lower end of High Street, where,
finding there was no time to lose, though unopposed
by the militia, they set fire to the figure
amid shouts of ‘‘ Pereat Papa f I’ but had instantly
to fly. Arnot says the burning took place in the
Blackfriars Wynd.
Grim old Dalyell of Binns came galloping
through the Netherbow Port at the head of his
linquish their intention, and a few who were
English were seized in their beds, and carried by
the guard to the Tolbooth.
All the forces in Leith and the neighbourhood
mere marched into the Canongate, where they remained
all night under arms ; and in the morning
the Provost allowed the privileges of a fortified
city to be violated, it was alleged, by permitting
the Foot Guards and Mars Fusiliers (latterly
zIst Foot) to enter the gates, seize advantageous
of treatment not much more respectful than their
own. In the course of this operation the head
fell OK,” and was borne in triumph up the Castle
Hill by a Dumber of boys. But this trumpery
affair did not end here.
Seven students were apprehended, and examined
before the Privy Council by Sir George
Mackenzie of Rosehaugh, the King’s Advocate,
and after being a few days in custody, were liberated.
So little were they gratified by this leniency
that many street scuffles took place between them
and the troops, whom they alleged to be the aggressors.
Violent denunciations of revenge against the
magistrates were uttered in the streets ; and upon
the 11th of January, 1681, the house of Priestfield
grey Dragoons; then came the Fusiliers, under the
Earl of Mar; and Lord Linlithgowv, with one
battalion of the Scots Foot Guards, in such haste
that he fell off his horse. The troops were ordered
to extinguish the flames and rescue the image.
“ This, however, understanding the combustible
state of its interior, they were in no haste to do ;
keeping at a cautious distance, they merely belaboured
his Holiness with the butt end of their
musquets, which the students allege was a mode
.
THE LIBRARY OF THE OLD UNIVERSITY, AS SEEN FROM THE SOUTH-WESTERN CORNER OF THE QUADRANGLE,
LOOKING EAST. (From an EngnauiqQ W. H. Lizursofa Drawing& Playfair). ... 2 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [University. posts, and make the Grassmarket their headquarters. The City Militia held ...

Vol. 5  p. 12 (Rel. 0.23)

I34 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Restalng.
many instances, relatives and friends. With all
the affected zeal of a peacemaker, this gentleman
(whose house stood in Drury Lane, off the Strand
in London), proposed terms which Huntly deemed
satisfactory ; but the next point to be considered
was, which party should first march off the field.
On this, both parties were absurdly obstinate.
Huntly maintained that Morton, by an aggressive
display, had drawn the Queen’s troops out of the
city ; while Morton, on the other hand, charged the
Highland Earl with various acts of hostility and
insult. Dnuy eventually got both parties to promise
to quit the ground at a given signal, “and
that signal,” he arranged, “shall be the throwing
up of my hat.”
This was agreed to, and before Drury was halfway
between the Hawkhill and the ancient quarries,
up went his plumed hat, and away wheeled
Huntly’s forces, marching for the city by the road
that led to the Canongate, without the least suspicion
of the treachery of Drury, or Morton, whose
soldiers had never left their ground, and who cow,
rushing across the open fields with shouts charged
with the utmost fury the queen’s men, ‘‘ who were
retiring with all the imprudent irregularity and confusion
which an imaginary security and exultation
at having escaped a sanguinary conflict were calculated
to produce.”
Thus treacherously attacked, they were put to
flight, and were pursued with cruel and rancorous
slaughter to the very gates of the city. The
whole road was covered with dead and wounded
men, while Lord Home, several gentlemen of high
position, and seventy-two private soldiers, a pair
of colours, several horses, and two pieces of cannon,
were, amid great triumph, marched into Leith in the
afternoon.
This was not the only act of treachery of which
Sir William Drury was guilty. He swore that he
was entirely innocent, and threw the whole blame
on Morton; but though an ambassador, so exas.
perated were the people of Edinburgh against him,
that he had afterwards to quit the city under a
guard to protect him from the infuriated mob.
The Laird of Restalrig was among those who
surrendered with Kirkaldy of Grange, in 1573, when
the Castle of Edinburgh capitulated to Morton;
but he would seem to have been pardoned, as
no record exists of any seventy practised upon him.
In #some criminal proceedings, in I 5 76, the sheet
of water here is designated as Restalrig Loch,
when a woman named Bessie Dunlop was tried
for witchcraft and having certain interviews with
‘‘ ane Tam Reid,” who was killed at the battle of
Pinkie. Having once ridden with her husband to
Leith to bring home meal, “ganging afield to
tether her horse at Restalrig Loch, there came ane
company of riders by, that made sic a din as if
heaven and earth had gane together; and, incontinent
they rade into the loch, with mony
hideous rumble. Tarn tauld [her] it was the
Gude Wights, that were riding in middle-eard.”
For these and similar confessions, Bessie was
consigned to the flames as a witch.
During the prevalence of the pestilence, in 1585,
James Melville says that on his way to join the
General Assembly at Linlithgow he had to pass
through Edinburgh ; that after dining at Restalrig at
eleven o’clock, he rode through thecity from the Water
Gate to the West Port, “ in all whilk way, we saw
not three persons, sae that I mis-kenned Edinburgh,
and almost forgot that I had ever seen sic a town.”
In 1594 Restalrig was the scene of one of those
stormy raids that the “mad Earl of Bothwell”
caused so frequently, to the torment of James VI.
The earl, at the head of an armed force, was in
Leith, and broke out in open rebellion, when,
on the 3rd of April, the king, after sermon, summoned
the people of Edinburgh in arms, and moved
towards Leith, from whence Bothwell instantly
issued at the head of 500 mounted men-atms,
and took up a position at the Hawkhill near
Restalrig. Fearing, however, the strength of the
citizens, he made a detour, and galloped through
Duddingstone. Lord Home with his lances followed
him to “the Woomet,” says Birrel, probably
meaning Woolmet, near Dalkeith, when Bothwell
faced about, and compelled him to retire in turn,
but not without bloodshed.
In February, 1593, at Holyrood, Robert Logan,
of Restalrig, was denounced for not appearing to
answer for his treasonable conspiracy and trafiicking
“ with Francis, sum tyme Earl of Bothwell ; ” and
in the June of the following year he was again
denounced as a traitor for failing to appear and
answer for the conduct of two of his vassals, Jockie
Houlden and Peter Craick, who had despoiled
Robert Gray, burgess in Edinburgh of Lg50.
It was in this year that the remarkable indenture
was formed between him and Napier of Merchiston
to search for gold in Fast Castle (the “Wolf’s Crag”
of the Master of Ravenswood), a fortress which lie
had acquired by his marriage with an heiress of
the Home family, to whom it originally belonged.
Logan joined the Earl of Gowrie in the infamous
and mysterious conspiracy at Perth, in the year
1600. It was proposed to force the king into ir
boat at the bottom of the garden of Gowrie
House, which the river Tay bordered, and from‘
thence conduct him by sea to Logan’s inacces ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Restalng. many instances, relatives and friends. With all the affected zeal of a ...

Vol. 5  p. 134 (Rel. 0.23)

I74 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. ’ [Leith.
preachers, who though profound unbelievers in any
kind of consecration, ‘‘ publicly declared that God
would not allow such wickedness and irreverence
to pass unpunished, as it betokened contempt for
the place where men assembled for divine service.”
The troops of the Congregation now imagined that
the vengeance of Heaven impended over them,
ready to burst on the first opportunity, for their
iniquity in using a church as a carpenter‘s shop ;
and there was another alarming element in the
ranks, a want of pay, which caused a disinclination
to fight.
Queen Elizabeth had sent the Lords 4,000
crowns of the sun, but these had been abstracted
from the bearer, at the sword’s point, by that
spirit of evil, James, Earl of Bothwell (the future
Duke of Orkney), and now their troops became
disheartened and disorderly. ‘‘ The men of war,”
says Knox, “who were men without God or
honesty, made a mutiny, because they lacked part
of their wages ; they had done the same in Linlithgow
before, when they made a proclamation
that they would serve any man to suppress the
Congregation, and set up the mass again ! ”
In their desperation the Lords applied to England,
and a meeting was held at Berwick between
the Duke of Norfolk and their delegates, who were
Lord James Stuart (the future Regent Moray), Lord
Ruthven (one of Rizzio’s assassins), James Wishart
of Pittarow, and three others ; and the treaty which
the duke concluded with these Reformers was confirmed
by the Queen of England. The alleged
objects were, “ the defence of the Protestant religion,
of the ancient rights and liberties of Scotland,
against the attempts of France to destroy
them and make a conquest of that free kingdomin
effect, to crush completely the Catholic interest
and the power of the House of Guise.”
The French in Leith cared little for this treaty,
as they were in daily expectation of fresh succours
from France j but their scouting and ravaging detachments
in Fife, under the Count de Martigues,
General d’Oisel, the Swiss leader L’Abast, and
others, were severely cut up by Kirkaldy of Grange,
the Master of Lindsay, and other Protestant
leaders ; disasters followed fast, and before they
could concentrate all their forces in Leith they suffered
considerable loss in skirmishes by the way.
The Lords of the Congregation now ordered a
general muster before the walls of Leith on the
joth of March, 1560, every man to come fully
equipped for battle, with thirty days’ provisions ;
and in conformity with the treaty referred to, on
’ the 2nd of April there marched into Scotland an
English force, consisting of 1,250 horse and 6,000
infantry, under a brave and experienced leader,
Lord Grey de Wilton, warden of the East and
Middle Marches of England.
Sir James Crofts was his second in command ;
Sir George Howard was general of the men-at-arm%
or heavy cavalry, and Burnley Fitzpatrick was his
lieutenant ; Sir Henry Piercy led the demi-lances,
or light horse ; William Pelham was captain of the
pioneers, Thomas Gower captain of the ordnance ;
the LordScrope was Earl Marshal. Many of these
troops had served at the battle of Pinkie and in
other affairs against Scotland.
Lord Grey’s first halt was at Dunglas, where he
encamped his infantry, while the English cavalry
were peacefully cantoned in the adjacent hamlets.
The second day‘s halt was at Haddington. As.
they passed the royal castle of Dunbar the Queen’s.
troops made a sally, an encounter took place, and
some lives were lost. “The third day’s march,
brought them to Prestonpans, where they met the
Scottish leaders, and had an interview, which is,
perhaps, the more important from the fact that we
now find, for the first time in history, Scottish and
English forces acting together as allies.”
On the first of the same month an English fleet
under Vice-Admiral William Winter, Master of
Elizabeth’s Ordnance, cast anchor in the roads to)
assist in the reduction of Leith. According to
Lediard‘s Naval History,” he instantly attacked.
and made himself master of the French ships which
were there at anchor, and blocked up Inchkeith.
It was defended by a French garrison, which was
soon reduced to the last extremity for want of provisions.
All this was done in defiance of the remonstrances.
of M. De Severre, the French ambassad% at the
Regent’s court, who went on board the English
fleet in the roads.
Lord Grey encamped at Restalrig, where he was
joined by the Earls of Argyle, Montrose, and Glencairn
; the Lords Boyd and Ochiltree ; the prior ot
St. Andrews, and the hlaster of Maxwell, with
2,000 men. On this occasion the Town Council of
Edinburgh contributed from the corporation funds
A1,600 Scots, as a month’s pay for 400 men to
assist in the reduction of Leith--“a sum,” says 5
historian, “which enabled each of these warriors to
live at the rate of twopence-halfpenny a day.”
The Queen Regent, whose dying condition rendered
it impossible for her expose herself to the
hazards of a siege in Leith, retired into the castle of
Edinburgh, where she daily and anxiously watched
the operations of her Scottish enemies and their
English allies The French in Leith were now
reduced to about 5,000 men, whose orders were to ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. ’ [Leith. preachers, who though profound unbelievers in any kind of consecration, ‘‘ ...

Vol. 5  p. 174 (Rel. 0.23)

i.e., the Tolbooth; others were held there in 1449
and 1459. In the latter the Scottish word
“Tolbooth,” meaning a tax-house, occurs for the
first time ; “Hence,” says Wilson, “ a much older,
and probably larger erection must therefore have
existed on the site of the western portion of the
Tolbooth, the ruinous state of which led to the
royal command for its demolition in 1561-not
a century after the date we are disposed to
assign to the oldest portion of the building that
remained till 1817, and which, though decayed and
time-worn, was so far from being ruinous even then,
that it proved a work of great labour to demolish
its solid masonry.” In the “Diurnal of Occurrents,”
it is recorded that in 1571 “the tour of the add
TuZbuyth was tane doun.”
The ornamental north gable of the Tolbooth was
never seen without a human head stuck thereon in
“the good old times,” In 1581. “the prick on the
highest stone” bore the head of the Regent
Morton, in 1650 the head of the gallant Montrose,
till ten years subsequently it was replaced by that
of his enemy Argyle.
In 1561 the Tolbooth figures in one of those
tulzies or rows so common in the Edinburgh of
those days ; but in this particular instance we see a
distinct foreshadowing of the Porteous mob of the
eighteenth century, by the magistrates forbidding a
I‘ Robin Hood.” This was the darling May game
of Scotland as well as England, and, under the
pretence offrolic, gave an unusual degree of licence;
but the Scottish Calvinistic clergy, with John Knox
‘ at their head, and backed by the authority of the
magistrates of Edinburgh, who had of late been
chosen exclusively from that party, found it impossible
to control the rage of the populace when
deprived of the privilege of having a Robin Hood,
with the Abbot of Unreason and the Queen of the
May.( Thus it czme to pass, that in May, 1561,
when a man in Edinburgh was chosen as “ Robin
Hood and Lord of Inobedience,” most probably
because he was a frolicsome, witty, and popular
fellow, and passed through the city with a great
number of followers, noisily, and armed, with a
banner displayed, to the Castle Hill, the magistrates
caught one of his companions, “ a cordiner’s servant,”
named Janies Gillon, whom they condemned
to be hanged on the z ~ s t of July.
On that day, as he was to be conveyed to the
gibbet, it was set up with the ladder against it
in the usual fashion, when the craftsmen rushed
into the streets, clad in their armour, with
spears, axes, and hand-guns. They seized the
Provost by main force of arms, together with
two Bailies, David Symmer and Adam Fullarton,
and thrusting them into Alexander Guthrie’s
writing booth, left them there under a. guard.
The rest marched to the cross, broke the gibbet
to pieces, and beating in the doors of the Tolbooth
with sledge-hammers, under the eyes of
the magistrates, who were warded close by,
they brought forth the prisoner, whom they conveyed
ic~ triumph down the street to the Nether
Bow Port. . Finding the latter closed, they passed
up the street again. By this time the magistrates
had taken shelter in the Tolbooth, from whence
one,of them fired a pistol and wounded one of the
mob. “That being done,” says the Diurnal of
Occurrents, “ there was naething but tak and day!
that is, the one part shooting forth and casting
stones, the other part shooting hagbuts in again, and
sae the craftsmen’s servants held them (conducted
themselves) continually frae three hours afternoon,
while (till) aucht at even, and never ane man of the
toun steirit to defend their provost and bailies.”
The former, who was Thomas Maccakean, of
Clifton Hall, contrived to open a communication
with the constable of the Castle, who came with
an armed party to act as umpire ; and through that
officer it was arranged “that the provost and
bailies should discharge all manner of actions
whilk they had against the said crafts-childer in
ony time bygone ;” and this being done and proclaimed,
the armed trades peacefully disbanded,
and the magistrates were permitted to leave the
Tolbooth.
In 1539 the sixth Parliament of James VI. met
there. The Estates rode through the streets;
“ the crown was borne before his Majesty by
Archibald Earl of Angus, the sceptre by Colin
Earl of Argyle, Chancellor, and the sword of
honour, by Robert Earl of Lennox.” Moyse adds,
when the Parliament was dissolved, twelve days
after, the king again rode thither in state. In
1581 Morton was tried and convicted in the hall
for the murder of Darnley ; the King’s Advocate
on that occasion was Robert Crichton of Elliock,
father of the ‘‘ Admirable Crichton.”
Caldenvood records some curious instances of
the king‘s imbecility among his fierce and turbulent
couttiers. On January 7th, 1590, when he was
coming down the High Street from the Tolbooth,
where he had been administering justice, two of
his attendants, Lodovick Duke of Lennox (hereditary
High Admiral and Great Chamberlain), and
Alexander Lord Home, meeting the Laird of
Logie, with whom they had a quarrel, though he
was valet of the royal chamber, attacked him
sword in hand, to the alarm of James, who retired
into an adjacent close ; and six days after, when he ... the Tolbooth; others were held there in 1449 and 1459. In the latter the Scottish word “Tolbooth,” meaning ...

Vol. 1  p. 126 (Rel. 0.23)

OLD -4NU NEW EDINBURGH. ... v11t
CHAPTER XXXIV.
INCHKEITH.
PAGE
The Defences of Leith-Inchkeith Forts-%. Serf-The Pest-stricken in 1497-Experiment of James lV.-The Old Fort-Johnson and
Boswell-The New Chanuel -Colonel Moggridge's P l a n j T h e 'I hree New Forts-Magazines and Barracks-The Lighthouse . . 290
CHAPTER XXXV.
NEWHAVEN.
Cobbett on Edinburgh-Jam- IV.'s Dockyard -His Gift of Newhaven to Edinburgh-The GYCQ~ Michapl-Embarkation of Mary of Guise
-Woc.ks at Newhaven in the Sixteenth Century-The Links-Viscount Newhaven-The Feud with Prestonpans-The Sea Fencibles
--Chain Pier-Dr. Fairhirn-The E ishwives-Superstitions . , . . . , . . . . . . . . . 295
CHAPTER XXXVI.
WARDIE, TRINITY, AND GRANTO~.
Wardie Muir-Human Remqins Found-Bangholm Bower and Trinity Lodge-Christ Church, Trinity-Free Church, Granton Road-Pilton
-Royston-Caroline Park-Granton-The Piers and Harhuun-Morton's Patent Slip , . . . . . . , . . 306
CHAPTER XXXVII.
THE ENVIRONS OF EDINBURGH.
Cramond-Origin of the Name-Cramond of that Ilk-Ancient Charters - Inchmickery-Lord Cramond--Bdrnton -Goer and its Proprietors-
Saughton Hall--Riccarton . . . . . . , . . . . . . . , . . . , . . 3'4
CH AI'TE R XXXVI 11.
THE EXVIRONS OF EDINBURGH (confinzed).
Colinton-Ancient Name and Church-Redhall-The Family of Foulis-Dreghom -The Pentlands-View from Tqhin-Comiston-Slateford-
Grnysmill-Liberton -The Mill at Nether Liberton-Liberton Tower-The Chiirch-The Balm Well of St. Katherine-Grace
Mount-The Wauchopes of Niddrie-Niddrie House-St Katherine's-The Kaime-Mr. Clement Little-Lady Little 01 Lihrton . 322
CHAPTER XXXIX.
THE EXVIRONS OF EDINBURGH (continued).
Cnrrie-Origin of the Name-Roman Camps-The Old Church and Temple Lands-Lennox Tower-Curriehill Castle and the Skenes-
Scott of Malleny-James Andelson, LL.D.--"Camp Meg" and her Story . . . . . . . . . . , . 130
CHAPTER XL.
THE ENVIRONS OF EDIXBURGH (coalinued).
The Inch House-The WinramcEdmonstone and the Edmon.;tones of ttat Ilk-Witches-Woolmet-The Stenhouse-Moredun-The
' .338 Stewarts of Goodtrees-The Buckstane-Burdiehoux-Its Limekilns and Fossils . . . . , I . . . , . ... -4NU NEW EDINBURGH. ... v11t CHAPTER XXXIV. INCHKEITH. PAGE The Defences of Leith-Inchkeith Forts-%. ...

Vol. 6  p. 397 (Rel. 0.23)

OLD -4NU NEW EDINBURGH. ... v11t
CHAPTER XXXIV.
INCHKEITH.
PAGE
The Defences of Leith-Inchkeith Forts-%. Serf-The Pest-stricken in 1497-Experiment of James lV.-The Old Fort-Johnson and
Boswell-The New Chanuel -Colonel Moggridge's P l a n j T h e 'I hree New Forts-Magazines and Barracks-The Lighthouse . . 290
CHAPTER XXXV.
NEWHAVEN.
Cobbett on Edinburgh-Jam- IV.'s Dockyard -His Gift of Newhaven to Edinburgh-The GYCQ~ Michapl-Embarkation of Mary of Guise
-Woc.ks at Newhaven in the Sixteenth Century-The Links-Viscount Newhaven-The Feud with Prestonpans-The Sea Fencibles
--Chain Pier-Dr. Fairhirn-The E ishwives-Superstitions . , . . . , . . . . . . . . . 295
CHAPTER XXXVI.
WARDIE, TRINITY, AND GRANTO~.
Wardie Muir-Human Remqins Found-Bangholm Bower and Trinity Lodge-Christ Church, Trinity-Free Church, Granton Road-Pilton
-Royston-Caroline Park-Granton-The Piers and Harhuun-Morton's Patent Slip , . . . . . . , . . 306
CHAPTER XXXVII.
THE ENVIRONS OF EDINBURGH.
Cramond-Origin of the Name-Cramond of that Ilk-Ancient Charters - Inchmickery-Lord Cramond--Bdrnton -Goer and its Proprietors-
Saughton Hall--Riccarton . . . . . . , . . . . . . . , . . . , . . 3'4
CH AI'TE R XXXVI 11.
THE EXVIRONS OF EDINBURGH (confinzed).
Colinton-Ancient Name and Church-Redhall-The Family of Foulis-Dreghom -The Pentlands-View from Tqhin-Comiston-Slateford-
Grnysmill-Liberton -The Mill at Nether Liberton-Liberton Tower-The Chiirch-The Balm Well of St. Katherine-Grace
Mount-The Wauchopes of Niddrie-Niddrie House-St Katherine's-The Kaime-Mr. Clement Little-Lady Little 01 Lihrton . 322
CHAPTER XXXIX.
THE EXVIRONS OF EDINBURGH (continued).
Cnrrie-Origin of the Name-Roman Camps-The Old Church and Temple Lands-Lennox Tower-Curriehill Castle and the Skenes-
Scott of Malleny-James Andelson, LL.D.--"Camp Meg" and her Story . . . . . . . . . . , . 130
CHAPTER XL.
THE ENVIRONS OF EDIXBURGH (coalinued).
The Inch House-The WinramcEdmonstone and the Edmon.;tones of ttat Ilk-Witches-Woolmet-The Stenhouse-Moredun-The
' .338 Stewarts of Goodtrees-The Buckstane-Burdiehoux-Its Limekilns and Fossils . . . . , I . . . , . ... -4NU NEW EDINBURGH. ... v11t CHAPTER XXXIV. INCHKEITH. PAGE The Defences of Leith-Inchkeith Forts-%. ...

Vol. 6  p. 398 (Rel. 0.23)

OLD -4NU NEW EDINBURGH. ... v11t
CHAPTER XXXIV.
INCHKEITH.
PAGE
The Defences of Leith-Inchkeith Forts-%. Serf-The Pest-stricken in 1497-Experiment of James lV.-The Old Fort-Johnson and
Boswell-The New Chanuel -Colonel Moggridge's P l a n j T h e 'I hree New Forts-Magazines and Barracks-The Lighthouse . . 290
CHAPTER XXXV.
NEWHAVEN.
Cobbett on Edinburgh-Jam- IV.'s Dockyard -His Gift of Newhaven to Edinburgh-The GYCQ~ Michapl-Embarkation of Mary of Guise
-Woc.ks at Newhaven in the Sixteenth Century-The Links-Viscount Newhaven-The Feud with Prestonpans-The Sea Fencibles
--Chain Pier-Dr. Fairhirn-The E ishwives-Superstitions . , . . . , . . . . . . . . . 295
CHAPTER XXXVI.
WARDIE, TRINITY, AND GRANTO~.
Wardie Muir-Human Remqins Found-Bangholm Bower and Trinity Lodge-Christ Church, Trinity-Free Church, Granton Road-Pilton
-Royston-Caroline Park-Granton-The Piers and Harhuun-Morton's Patent Slip , . . . . . . , . . 306
CHAPTER XXXVII.
THE ENVIRONS OF EDINBURGH.
Cramond-Origin of the Name-Cramond of that Ilk-Ancient Charters - Inchmickery-Lord Cramond--Bdrnton -Goer and its Proprietors-
Saughton Hall--Riccarton . . . . . . , . . . . . . . , . . . , . . 3'4
CH AI'TE R XXXVI 11.
THE EXVIRONS OF EDINBURGH (confinzed).
Colinton-Ancient Name and Church-Redhall-The Family of Foulis-Dreghom -The Pentlands-View from Tqhin-Comiston-Slateford-
Grnysmill-Liberton -The Mill at Nether Liberton-Liberton Tower-The Chiirch-The Balm Well of St. Katherine-Grace
Mount-The Wauchopes of Niddrie-Niddrie House-St Katherine's-The Kaime-Mr. Clement Little-Lady Little 01 Lihrton . 322
CHAPTER XXXIX.
THE EXVIRONS OF EDINBURGH (continued).
Cnrrie-Origin of the Name-Roman Camps-The Old Church and Temple Lands-Lennox Tower-Curriehill Castle and the Skenes-
Scott of Malleny-James Andelson, LL.D.--"Camp Meg" and her Story . . . . . . . . . . , . 130
CHAPTER XL.
THE ENVIRONS OF EDIXBURGH (coalinued).
The Inch House-The WinramcEdmonstone and the Edmon.;tones of ttat Ilk-Witches-Woolmet-The Stenhouse-Moredun-The
' .338 Stewarts of Goodtrees-The Buckstane-Burdiehoux-Its Limekilns and Fossils . . . . , I . . . , . ... -4NU NEW EDINBURGH. ... v11t CHAPTER XXXIV. INCHKEITH. PAGE The Defences of Leith-Inchkeith Forts-%. ...

Vol. 6  p. 399 (Rel. 0.23)

armed men; at Bilston Burn is Wallace’s camp, in
the form of a half-moon, defended by a broad deep
ditch-a semicircle of eighty-four yards. It is ten
yards wide at the top and five yards at the bottom,
with a depth now of three yards.
The Cast-a rugged path-at Springfield is a
corruption of Via ad cmtra, and is, no doubt, an
old Roman road, though in some places now six
feet below the present surface (“New Statistical
Account”) ; and at Mavisbank is a tumulus, wherein
ROSLIN CHAPEL:-VIEW FROM THE CHANCEL (Affer a PhfopajA 61 G. W. wihon & CO.)
-
Lord of the Bedchamber to His Imperial Majesty
Joseph II., Emperor of Germany, Knight of the
Order of Maria ‘Theresa, Count of the Holy Roman
Empire, and General of the Imperial, Royal, and
Apostolical Armies. Died at Pisa, in Italy, 6th
February, MDCCXC., in the LXIV. year of his age.”
Captain Philip Lockhart, of the Dryden family,
was one of the prisoners taken at Preston, in England,
in 1715, and for having previously borne a
commission in the British army, was tried by courthave
been found stiZi, f l u h , weapons, bridles, and
Roman surgical instruments ; and at a farm close by
is another, wherein urns full of calcined bones have
been excavated.
The Maiden Castle at Lasswade was situated
some three hundred yards south of the Hewan, in
a spot of exceeding loveliness. Nothing now
remains of it save massive foundations, but by
whom it was founded or to whom it belonged not
even a tradition remains.
Near Mount Marl, and by the high road at
Dryden, in a field, stands the great monument of
one of the former proprietors of the estate, bearing
the following inscription :-
“James Lockhart-Wishart of Lee and Carnwath,
martial ; and by a savage stretch of power was, with
Major Nairne, Ensign Erskine, Captain Shaftoe,
and others, shot for alleged desertion.
Nairne and Lockhart denied that they could be
guilty of desertion, as “they had no commission
from, nor trust under, the present Government, and
the regiment to which they belonged had been
broken several years ago in Spain,” and that they
regarded their half-pay but as a gratuity for their
past services to Queen Anne. Major Nairne was
the first who perished.
“ After he was shot, Captain Lockhart would not
suffer the soldiers to touch his friend’s body, but
with his own hands, with help of the other two
gentlemen, laid him in his coffin j after which he ... men; at Bilston Burn is Wallace’s camp, in the form of a half-moon, defended by a broad deep ditch-a ...

Vol. 6  p. 356 (Rel. 0.23)

240 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Leith
is in the Gothic style, with a tower 130 feet high,
surmounted by an open crown.
On the east side of this street, and near its
northern end, stood the house in which John
Home, the author of ‘( Douglas ” and other tragedies,
was born, on the 13th September, 1724. His
father, Alexander Home, was Town Clerk of Leith,
and his mother was Christian Hay, daughter of a
writer in Edinburgh. He was educated at the
Grammar School in the Kirkgate, and subsequently
succeeded in carrying Thomas Barrow, who had
dislocated his ankle in the descent, to Alloa, where
they were received on board the YuZture, sloopofwar,
commanded by Captain Falconer, who landed
them in his barge at the Queen’s Ferry, from
whence Home rFturned to his father‘s house in
Leith.
Subsequently he became the associate and friend
of Drs. Robertson and Blair, David Hume, Adam
Fergusson, Adam Smith, and other eminent Ziterati
ST. JAMES’S CHAPEL, 1820. (Aftcr Stow.)
at the university of the capital. His father was a
son of Home of Flass (says Henry Mackenzie, in
his “ Memoirs ”1, a lineal descendant of Sir James
Home of Cowdenknowes, ancestor of the Earls of
Home. He was licensed by the Presbytery of
Edinburgh on the 4th of April, in the memorable
year 1745, and became a volunteer in the corps so
futilely formed to assist in the defence of Edinburgh
against Prince Charles Edward Serving as a
volunteer in the Hanoverian interest, he was taken
prisoner at thevictory of Falkirk, and committed to
the castle of Doune in hlonteith, from whence,
with some others, he effected an escape by forming
ropes of the bedclothes-an adventure which he
details in his own history of the civil strife. They
of whom the Edinburgh of that day could boast ;
and in 1746 he was inducted as minister at Athelstaneford,
his immediate predecessor being Robert
Blair, author of “ The Grab-e," and there he produced
his first drama, founded on the death of
Agis, King of Sparta, which Gamck declined when
offered for representation in I 749.
In 1755 Home set off on horseback to London
from his house in East Lothian, with the
tragedy of “Ilouglas” in his pocket, says Henry
Mackenzie. ‘‘ His habitual carelessness was strongly
shown by his having thought of no better conveyance
for this MS.-by which he #vas to acquire
all the fame and future success of which his friends
were so confident-than the pocket of the great-
. ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Leith is in the Gothic style, with a tower 130 feet high, surmounted by an open ...

Vol. 6  p. 240 (Rel. 0.22)

doultay’s Hi11.1 THE LYON KING-OF-ARMS. 37= _.
able testimonial, signed and sealed by all the
members of that corporation. When the Civil War
broke out, though a staunch Presbyterian, Sir
James remained loyal to the king, for whose Scots
Under the Lord Lyon were the messengers-atarms,
whose duty is still to execute all summonses
before the Court of Session, to apprehend the
persons of debtors, and generally to perform the
executive parts of the law. By the twelfth Parliament
of James VI. and the second Parliament of
Charles 11. it is defined that the province of the
Lyon-who takes his name from the emblem in the
royal standard-is to adjust matters of precedence,
and marshal public processions ; also to inspect
the coats of arms of the nobility and gentry; to
punish those who assume arms to which they have
no hereditary right ; to bestow coats of arms upon
the deserving ; to grant supporters in certain cases;
and to take cognisance of, and to punish, offences
committed by messengers-at-arms in the course of
their office.
Of old, and before it degenerated into a mere
legal sinecure, the office was one of great dignity,
and the person of the holder was deemed almost
sacred. Thus, Bishop Lesly tells us in his history
that in 1515 the aged Lord Drummond was forfeited
“ for striking the Lyon, and narrowly escaped
the loss of his life and dignity.”
In 1530 the office of Lord Lyon was bestowed
by James V. upon Sir David Lindesay of the
Mount, the celebrated poet, moralist, and reformer,
whom, four years after, he sent as an ambassador
to Germany, and in 1548 in a similar capacity to
Denmark. It was an office imposed upon the
Lord Lyon to receive foreign ambassadors, and
Lindesay did this honour to Sir Ralf Sadler, who
came froni England in 1539-40; and in 1568
Sir David Lindesay of Rathuleit was solemnly
crowned King-of-arms, in presence of the Regent
and nobility ; and in 1603, as Balfour tells us, “ Sir
David Lindesay of Mount, Lyone King-of-arms,”
proclaimed at the Cross the accession of James VI.
to the English throne.
On the 15th of June, 1630, Sir Jerome Lyndsay
of Annatland resigned the office in favour of Sir
James Balfour of Denmylne, who was crowned as
Lyon King by George Earl of Kinnoul, Chancellor
of Scotland, acting as royal commissioner, and
in 1633 he was created a baronet. Balfour, an
eminent antiquary and annalist, was well versed
in heraldry, to perfect the study of which, before
his appointment, he proceeded to London and
became acquainted with Sir Robert Cotton, and
Sir William Segar the Garter King, who obtained
for him from the heralds’ college a highly honour-
’
“The office of Lord Lyon has of late,” says
Amot, been held as a sinecure. . . , . The
business, therefore, is entirely committed to dewties,
who manage it in such a manner that. in a
Guards he designed colours in 1649 ; but was deprived
of his office by Cromwell, after which be
retired to Fifeshire, and collected many manuscripts
on the science of heraldry and connected with
Scottish history, prior to his death in 1657, and
these are now preserved in the Advocates’ Library.
A fine portrait of him is prefixed to his Annales,”
published at Edinburgh in 1824.
The installation of a Lyon King is given fully in
an account of “The order observed at the coronation
of Sir Alexander Erskirie of Cambo, Baronet,
Lord Lyon King-of-arms, at the royal palace of
Holyrood House, on the 27th day of July, 1681,
his Royal Highness James Duke of Albany and
York being his Majesty’s High Commissioner.”
In the ceremony of installation the Lord Lyon
is duly crowned ; and Sir Alexander was the last
who was thus crowned. His father, Sir Charles
Erskine of Cambo, had previously been Lyon King,
of which office he obtained a “ratification,” by
Parliament in 1672, with remainder to his son.
In 1703 the chief Scottish work on heraldry
was published by Alexander Nisbet of that ilk, to
whom the Scottish Parliament gave a grant of
Lz48 6s. 8d. to assist him in bringing it forth.
It is related in MacCormick‘s “ Life of Principal
Carstairs,” that when the latter was a prisoner in
the Castle of Edinburgh in 1685, an engaging boy
about twelve years of age, son of Erskine of Cambo,
then constable of the fortress, used to come almost
daily to the open grating of his dungeon, and was
wont to sit there for hours, “lamenting his unhappy
situation, and endeavouring by a thousand innocent
and childish means to divert him. Sonietimes the
boy brought him packages of fruit and provisions
(more delicate than the coarse fare of the prison),
and, what were of more importance, pens, ink, and
paper, and when the prisoner wrote letters carried
them to the post.”
Years elapsed ere the unfortunate Carstairs
could testify his gratitude ; but when the Revolution
came and the hand of misfortune fell heavily
on the Cavalier Erskines of Cambo, the Principal,
then high in favour with William III., remembered
his little friend of the bitter past in the Castle of
Edinburgh; and one of the first favours he asked
the new king was to bestow the office of Lord Lyon
upon the young heir of Cambo. The request was
granted, with the additional favour that it was made
hereditary in the family ; but it was soon after forfeited
by their joining the Earl of Mar in 1715. ... Hi11.1 THE LYON KING-OF-ARMS. 37= _. able testimonial, signed and sealed by all the members of that ...

Vol. 2  p. 371 (Rel. 0.22)

doultay’s Hi11.1 THE LYON KING-OF-ARMS. 37= _.
able testimonial, signed and sealed by all the
members of that corporation. When the Civil War
broke out, though a staunch Presbyterian, Sir
James remained loyal to the king, for whose Scots
Under the Lord Lyon were the messengers-atarms,
whose duty is still to execute all summonses
before the Court of Session, to apprehend the
persons of debtors, and generally to perform the
executive parts of the law. By the twelfth Parliament
of James VI. and the second Parliament of
Charles 11. it is defined that the province of the
Lyon-who takes his name from the emblem in the
royal standard-is to adjust matters of precedence,
and marshal public processions ; also to inspect
the coats of arms of the nobility and gentry; to
punish those who assume arms to which they have
no hereditary right ; to bestow coats of arms upon
the deserving ; to grant supporters in certain cases;
and to take cognisance of, and to punish, offences
committed by messengers-at-arms in the course of
their office.
Of old, and before it degenerated into a mere
legal sinecure, the office was one of great dignity,
and the person of the holder was deemed almost
sacred. Thus, Bishop Lesly tells us in his history
that in 1515 the aged Lord Drummond was forfeited
“ for striking the Lyon, and narrowly escaped
the loss of his life and dignity.”
In 1530 the office of Lord Lyon was bestowed
by James V. upon Sir David Lindesay of the
Mount, the celebrated poet, moralist, and reformer,
whom, four years after, he sent as an ambassador
to Germany, and in 1548 in a similar capacity to
Denmark. It was an office imposed upon the
Lord Lyon to receive foreign ambassadors, and
Lindesay did this honour to Sir Ralf Sadler, who
came froni England in 1539-40; and in 1568
Sir David Lindesay of Rathuleit was solemnly
crowned King-of-arms, in presence of the Regent
and nobility ; and in 1603, as Balfour tells us, “ Sir
David Lindesay of Mount, Lyone King-of-arms,”
proclaimed at the Cross the accession of James VI.
to the English throne.
On the 15th of June, 1630, Sir Jerome Lyndsay
of Annatland resigned the office in favour of Sir
James Balfour of Denmylne, who was crowned as
Lyon King by George Earl of Kinnoul, Chancellor
of Scotland, acting as royal commissioner, and
in 1633 he was created a baronet. Balfour, an
eminent antiquary and annalist, was well versed
in heraldry, to perfect the study of which, before
his appointment, he proceeded to London and
became acquainted with Sir Robert Cotton, and
Sir William Segar the Garter King, who obtained
for him from the heralds’ college a highly honour-
’
“The office of Lord Lyon has of late,” says
Amot, been held as a sinecure. . . , . The
business, therefore, is entirely committed to dewties,
who manage it in such a manner that. in a
Guards he designed colours in 1649 ; but was deprived
of his office by Cromwell, after which be
retired to Fifeshire, and collected many manuscripts
on the science of heraldry and connected with
Scottish history, prior to his death in 1657, and
these are now preserved in the Advocates’ Library.
A fine portrait of him is prefixed to his Annales,”
published at Edinburgh in 1824.
The installation of a Lyon King is given fully in
an account of “The order observed at the coronation
of Sir Alexander Erskirie of Cambo, Baronet,
Lord Lyon King-of-arms, at the royal palace of
Holyrood House, on the 27th day of July, 1681,
his Royal Highness James Duke of Albany and
York being his Majesty’s High Commissioner.”
In the ceremony of installation the Lord Lyon
is duly crowned ; and Sir Alexander was the last
who was thus crowned. His father, Sir Charles
Erskine of Cambo, had previously been Lyon King,
of which office he obtained a “ratification,” by
Parliament in 1672, with remainder to his son.
In 1703 the chief Scottish work on heraldry
was published by Alexander Nisbet of that ilk, to
whom the Scottish Parliament gave a grant of
Lz48 6s. 8d. to assist him in bringing it forth.
It is related in MacCormick‘s “ Life of Principal
Carstairs,” that when the latter was a prisoner in
the Castle of Edinburgh in 1685, an engaging boy
about twelve years of age, son of Erskine of Cambo,
then constable of the fortress, used to come almost
daily to the open grating of his dungeon, and was
wont to sit there for hours, “lamenting his unhappy
situation, and endeavouring by a thousand innocent
and childish means to divert him. Sonietimes the
boy brought him packages of fruit and provisions
(more delicate than the coarse fare of the prison),
and, what were of more importance, pens, ink, and
paper, and when the prisoner wrote letters carried
them to the post.”
Years elapsed ere the unfortunate Carstairs
could testify his gratitude ; but when the Revolution
came and the hand of misfortune fell heavily
on the Cavalier Erskines of Cambo, the Principal,
then high in favour with William III., remembered
his little friend of the bitter past in the Castle of
Edinburgh; and one of the first favours he asked
the new king was to bestow the office of Lord Lyon
upon the young heir of Cambo. The request was
granted, with the additional favour that it was made
hereditary in the family ; but it was soon after forfeited
by their joining the Earl of Mar in 1715. ... Hi11.1 THE LYON KING-OF-ARMS. 37= _. able testimonial, signed and sealed by all the members of that ...

Vol. 2  p. 370 (Rel. 0.22)

Merchiston. “ THE WARLOCK NAPIER.” 37
men, and others felL Of the queen’s men, only one
lost his life by a shot from the battlements of
Merchiston.
When peace came the philosopher returned to
his ancestral tower, and resumed his studies with
great ardour, and its battlements became the
observatory of the astrologer. Napier was supposed
by the vulgar of his time to possess
mysterious supernatural powers, and the marvels
attributed to him, with the aid of a devilish familiar,
in the shape of a jet-black cock, are preserved
grain, he ihreatened to poind them, ‘‘ Do so, if
you can catch them,” said his neighbour; and next
morning the fields were alive with reeling and
fluttering pigeons, which were easily captured, from
the effect of an intoxicating feed of saturated peas.
The place called the D:o Park, in front of Merchiston,
took its name from this event.
The warlock of the tower, as he was deemed,
seems to have entertained a perfect faith in the
possession of a power to discover hidden treasure.
Thus, there is still preserved among the Merchis-
GILLESPIE’S HOSPITAL, FROM THE EAST. (From an Engrauing Sy R. &oft in the “Scots Mugazilrc,’ 1805.)
among the traditions of the neighbourhood to the
present day. He impressed all his people that this
terrible chanticleer could detect their most secret
doings.
Having missed some valuables, he ordered his
servants one by one into a dark room of the tower,
where his favourite was confined, declaring that the
cock would crow when stroked by the hand of the
guilty, as each was required to do. The cock
remained silent during this ceremony ; but the
hands of oiie of the servants was found to be
entirely free from the soot with which the feathers
of the mysterious bird had been smeared.
The story of how he bewitched certain pigeons
is still remembered in the vicinity of Merchiston.
Having been annoyed by some that ate up his
ton papers a curious contract, dated July, 1594,
between him and Sir Robert Logan of Restalrig
-a Gowrie conspirator-which sets forth : “ Forasmuch
as there were old reports and appearances
that a sum of money was hid within Logan’s house
of Fast Castle, John Napier should do his utmost
diligence to work and seek out the same.” For
his reward he was to have the third of what was
found-by the use of a divining rod, we presume.
“ This singular contract,” says Wilson, ‘‘ acquires a
peculiar interest when we remember the reported
discovery of hidden treasure, with which the
preliminary steps of the Gowrie conspiracy were
effected.”
In 1608 we find the inventor of logarithms
appearing in a new light. In that year it was ... “ THE WARLOCK NAPIER.” 37 men, and others felL Of the queen’s men, only one lost his life by a shot ...

Vol. 5  p. 37 (Rel. 0.22)

THE PALACE BURNED AND REPAIRED. 73
~
gesse !”’ Then the castle fired a salute, while
silver was scattered to the multitude. Three years
afterwards the king and court had departed, and
Holyrood was consigned to silence and gloom.
On James VI. re-visiting Scotland in 1617, the
palace was fitted up for him with considerable
splendour, but his project of putting up statues
of the apostles in the chapel caused great excitement
in the city. Taylor, the Water-poet, who was
at Holyrood in the following year, states that he
~~
the gardens known as Queen Mary‘s sundial,
although the cyphers of Charles, his queen, and
eldest son appear upon it. Cromwell quartered
a body of his infantry in the palace, and by accident
they set it on fire, on the 13th November,
1650, when it wzs destroyed, all save the Tower of
James V., with its furniture and decorations.
Of this palace a drawing by Gordon of
Rothiemay has been preserved, which shows the
main entrance to have been where we find it
HOLYROOD PALACE AKD ABBEY CHURCH, FROM THE SOUTH-EAST.
saw this legend over the royal arms at the gate :
CC4Nobis hec invicta misanf 106 proovi.’ I inquired
what the English of it was. It was told me
as followeth, which I thought worthy to be recorded :
-6 106 foreJ&%ws h i e I& this to ux unconpumed..’ ”
When Charles I. visited Edinburgh, in 1633,
the magistrates employed the famous Jameson to
paint portraits of the Scottish monarchs, and,
imitative of his master Rubens, he wore his
hat when Charles I. sat to him ; but it is probable
that after the latter‘s last visit, in 1641, the palace
must have become somewhat dilapidated, otherwise
Cromwell would have taken up his residence
there. The improvements effected by Charles
were considerable, and among other memorials of
his residence still remaining, is the beautiful dial in
68
now. Round embattled towers flank it, with bow
windows in them, and above the grand gate are
the royal arms of Scotland. On either side is a
large range of buildings having great windows ;
and the now empty panels in the Tower of James V.
appear to have been filled in with armorial bearings,
doubtless destroyed by Cromwell. In his map of
1657 the same artist shows a louyingdn-stone in
the centre of the palace yard.
The palace was rebuilt to a certain extent, by
order of Cromwell, in 1658, but the whole of his
work, at the Restoration, was pulled down by
royal warrant two years after, as the work “ built
by the usurper, and doth darken the court”
Engrafted on the part that survived the conflagration,
and designed, it is said, after the noble ... PALACE BURNED AND REPAIRED. 73 ~ gesse !”’ Then the castle fired a salute, while silver was scattered to the ...

Vol. 3  p. 73 (Rel. 0.22)

of Strathearn, the Rosabelle of Scott’s beautiful
ballad, which tells us-
“ There are twenty of Roslin’s barons bold,
Lie buried in that proud chapelle,
But the sea holds lovely Rosabelle.
With candle, with book, and with bell ;
The dirge of lovely Rosabelle.”
Each one the holy vault doth hold,
And each St. Clair is buried there,
But the sea caves sung, and the wild waves rung,
In 1264, Sir William, sixth of Roslin, was
Sheriff of Edinburgh, Linlithgow, and Haddington
( r r Chamberlain Rolls ’7, and it was his son and successor,
Sir Henry, who obtained from Robert I.,
for his good and faithful services, a charter of
Pentland Muir, and to whom (and not to a Sir William)
the well-known tradition of the famous huntingmatch
thereon, which led to the founding of
the chapel of St. Katherine in the Hope, must
refer. With that muir he obtained other lands,
whjch were “all erected into a free forestry, for
payment of a tenth part of one soldier yearly, in
His son, Sir William, was one of the chosen
companions of the good Sir James Douglas, whom
he accompanied in the mission to convey Bruce’s
1317.”
heart to Jerusalem, and with whom he perished in
battle with the Moors at Teba, in 1331, He left
an infant son, who, in 1350, was ambassador at the
Court of England, whither he repaired with a train
of sixty armed horse. He married Isabella,
daughter of Malise, Earl of Strathearn, and was
succeeded by his son, Sir Henry Sinclair of Roslin,
who was created Earl of Orkney by Haco, King of
Norway, in 1379-a title confirmed by Robert 11.
According to Douglas, he married Florentina, a
daughter of the King of Denmark. Nisbet adds
that he was made Lord of Shetland and Duke of
Oldenburg (which is considered doubtful), and
that he was Knight of the Thistle, Cockle, and
Golden Fleece.
William, third earl, resigned his earldom of
Orkney in favour of King James IIL, and adopted
that of Caithness, which he resigned in 1476 to
his son TVilliam, who became distinguished by the
baronial grandeur of his household, and was the
founder of the chapel. It is of him that Father
Hay writes as “a prince,” who maintained at the
Castle of Roslin royal state, and was served at his
table in vessels of gold and silver. Lord Dirleton
was the master of his household, Lord Borthwick ... Strathearn, the Rosabelle of Scott’s beautiful ballad, which tells us- “ There are twenty of Roslin’s barons ...

Vol. 6  p. 348 (Rel. 0.22)

very probable that the Earl may often have been
a guest in that old mansion, and King James himself
in later years. The bishop, who married Margaret
Murray of Touchadam, died in 1593, and
was succeeded in the old mansion by his son John
Bothwell, designed of Auldhamer, who accompanied
King James to England, and was created Lord
Holyroodhouse, in the peerage of Scotland, in 1607.
Here dwelt his sister Anne, a woman of remarkable
beauty, whose wrongs are so touchingly re-
THE EXCISE OFFICE AT THE NETHERBOW. (After a Pkotograplr & A k x d e r A. Ingir.)
‘‘ an English villain,” according to Balfour-a servsnt
boy, out of revenge against his master.
In the Scots Magazine for 1774 we have a
notice of the death of Eleonora Bothwell, daughter
of the deceased Henry, Lord Holyroodhouse.
Alexander, his son, Master of Holyroodhouse,
who died about the middle of the last century,
ended the line of the family, of whom no relic now
remains save the tomb of Bishop Adam, which
still exists in Holyrood chapel On the front of
.corded in the sweet old ballad known as “ Lady
Anne Bothwell’s Lament.” She was betrayed in a
.disgraceful Ziaison by Sir Alexander Erskine (a son
af John, 14th Earl of Mar), of whom a portrait by
Jamieson is still extant, and represents him in the military
dress of his time-a handsome man in a cuirass
.and scarf, with a face full of nobility of expression.
The lady’s name does not appear in the Douglas
peerage ; but her cruel desertion by Sir Alexander
was confidently believed at the time to have justly
exposed him to the vengeance of heaven, for he
perished with the Earl of Haddington and others
in the Castle of Dunglas, which was blown up by
guhpowder in 1640, through the instrumentality of
the third pillar from the east is a tablet with his
arms-a chevron, between three trefoils slipped,
with a crescent, and a very long inscription, the
first six lines of which run thus :-
“ Hic reconditus jacet nobilissimus vir
Dominus Adamus Bothuelius, Episcopus,
Orcadum et Zethlandiz : Commendatonus Ifonasteni,
Sancti Crucis ; Senator et Consiliarius
Regius : qui obiit anno ztatis suz 67,
23 die Meosis August4 Anno Domini 1593.”
The ancient edifice is associated with an eminent
citizen, who lived in later but not less troublesome
and warlike times, Sir William Dick, ancestor of
the present baronets of Prestonfield. The south, ... probable that the Earl may often have been a guest in that old mansion, and King James himself in later ...

Vol. 2  p. 220 (Rel. 0.22)

~~
In 1543, when the traitorous Scottish nobles of
what was named the English faction, leagued with
Henry VIII. to achieve a marriage between his son
Edward, a child five years of age, and the infant
Queen of Scotland, the Earl of Lennox, who was
at the head of the movement, attempted an insurrection,
and, marching with all his adherents to
Leith, offered battle between that town and Edinburgh
to the Regent and Cardinal Beaton, who were
at the head of the Scottish loyalists. Aware that
PILRIG FREE CHURCH AND LEITH WALK, LOOKING NORTH.
After taking soundings at Granton Craigs, the
infantry were landed there by pinnaces, though the
water was so deep “ that a galley or two laid their
snowttis (i.e. bows) to the craigs,” at ten in the
morning of Sunday, the 4th of May. Between 12
and I o’clock they marched into Leith, “and fnnd
the tables covered, the dinnaris prepared, such
abundance of wyne and victuallis besydes the other
substances, that the lyck ritches were not to be
found either in Scotland nor in England.” (Knox.)
the forces of Lennox were superior in number to
their own, they amused him with a pretended
treaty till his troops began to weary, and dispersed
to their homes; and Henry of England, enraged
at the opposition to his avarice and ambition, resolved
to invade Scotland in 1544.
In May the Earl of Hertford, with an army
variously estimated at from ten to twenty thousand,
on board of two hundred vessels, commanded by
Dudley, Lord Lisle, suddenly entered the Firth of
Forth, while 4,000 mounted men-at-arms came to
Leith by land.
So suddenly was this expedition undertaken, that
the Regent Arran and the Cardinal were totally unprepared
to resist, and retired westward from the city.
Leith was pillaged, the surrounding countqravaged
with savage and merciless ferocity. Craigmillar
was captured, with many articles of vahie
deposited there by the citizens, and Sir Simon
Preston, after being taken prisoner, was-as a
degradation-compelled to march on foot to London.
How Hertford was baffled in his attempts
on Edinburgh Castle and compelled to retreat we
have narrated in its place. He fell back on Leith,
where he destroyed the pier, which was of wood,
pillaged and left the town in flames. After which
he embarked all his troops, and sailed, taking with
him the &Znrnander and Unicorn, two large Scottish
ships of war, and all the small craft lying in the
harbour. ... 1543, when the traitorous Scottish nobles of what was named the English faction, leagued with Henry VIII. ...

Vol. 5  p. 169 (Rel. 0.22)

Arthut’s Seat] “ THE WILD MACRAAS.” 307
The Edinburgh Evening Courant of the 29th
of October, 1728, contains the following reference
to the Craigs, or the chasm, there named the
Catnick :-“ A person who frequents the (King‘s)
Park, having noticed a man come from a cleft
towards the north-west of Salisbury Rocks, had the
curiosity to climb the precipice, if possibly he
might discover something that could invite him
there, He found a shallow pit, which delivered
him into a little snug room or vault hung with
dressed leather, lighted from the roof, the window
covered with a bladder. It is thought to have been
the cave of a hermit of ancient times, though now
the hiding-place of a gang of thieves.”
The long, deep, and tremendous rift in the wes
t e n slope of Arthur’s Seat (locally known as the
Gutiit Haddie) was caused by a mighty waterspout,
on the 13th of September, 1744. “Dividing its
force ”-says the “ Old Statistical -4ccount ”-‘‘ it
discharged one part upon the western side, and
tore up a channel or chasm, which still remains a
monument of its violence ; the other division took
its direction towards the village of Duddingston,
carried away the gable .of the most westerly cottage,
and flooded the loch over the adjacent meadows.”
On the steep sloping shoulder of Arthur‘s Seat,
south-westward, under the Rock of Dunsappie, the
Highland army encamped in September before
the battle of Prestonpans, and from thence it was
-after the Prince had held a council of his chief5
and nobles-the march began at daybreak on the
morning of the 20th through the old hedgerow:
and woods of Duddingston, with pipes playing
and colours flying, after Charles, in front of thc
he, had significantly drawn his claymore and flung
away the scabbard.
From a letter which appears in the Advertiser foi
the 15th of January, 1765, the entrance to tne Park
from St. Anne’s Yard to the Duke’s Walk having
become impassable, was privately repaired at tht
expense of a couple of classical wits, whose name:
were unknown, but who placed upon the entrance
the following inscription :-
Ite nunc faciles per gaudia uestra,
3 Cpuepecun sua re@&durn cur.
CaLIan. MD.C.CLXl?
rJ*i faciant ut haec smpiusjunf.
QUIRITES
Mungo Campbell (formerly officer of Excise ai
Saltcoats), who shot Archibald, tenth Earl oj
Eglinton, committed suicide in the Tolbooth ic
1770, on the day after he had been sentenced
to death, when the judge also directed that hi2
body should be given to the professor of anatomy,
His counsel having interposed on the plea that dip
section was not a legal penalty for self-murder, it
was privately interred at the foot of Salisbury Craigs.
But the Edinburgh mob, who were exasperated by
the manner in which he had shot the earl in a
poaching affray, took the .body out of the grave,
tossed it about till they were tired, and eventually
flung it over the cliffs. After this, to prevent
further indecency and outrage, Campbell’s friends
caused the body to be conveyed in a boat from
Leith and sank it in the Firth of Forth. (Caldwell
Papers ; S o t s Mug., Vol. XXXII.)
Southward of the coue of Arthur‘s Seat are the
Raven’s Craig and the Nether Hill, or Lion’s
Haunch ; between the latter and the cone can still
be traced the trench and breastwork formed by the
Seaforth Highlanders when they revolted in 1778-
an event which created a profound sensation in
Scotland.
In the July of that year they had marched into
the Castle, replacing the Royal Edinburgh Volunteers,
or 80th Regiment of the Line, a corps
which was raised by General Sir William Erskme in
1777, and was disbanded in 1783-5.
Kenneth Mackenzie, Earl of Seaforth, had
recently raised his noble regiment, which was then
numbered as the 78th (but is now known as the
Duke of Albany’s Own Highlanders), among his
clansmen in the district of Kintail and Applecross,
Kilcoy, and Redcastle ; of these Soawere from his
own estate; the rest were all from the others
named, and the corps mustered 1,130 bayonets at
its first parade in Elgin in the May of 1778 ; but
from a great number of another sept who were
in its ranks, the subsequent mutiny was known at
first as the afair of the WiZd Mwaas.
The latter was an ancient but subordinate tribe
of the west, who had followed the “ Caber Feigh,”
or banner of Seaforth, since the days when Black
Murdoch of Kintail carried it in the wars of
Robert I., and now many of its best men were
enrolled in Earl Kenneth‘s new Fencible regiment,
perfect subordination in the ranks of which was
maintained in the Castle until the 5th of August,
when an order was issued for marching at an hour’s
notice. A landing of a French force being expected
near Greenock, zoo of them, with seven
9-pounders, marched there with the greatest enthusiasm
to meet the foe, who never appeared; but
by the time these two companies returned, transports
to convey the whole for foreign service had come
to anchor in Leith Roads.
Where the scene of that service lay the men
knew not. It was kept a mystery from them and
their officers. The former would not believe a
rumour spread that it was to be tine Isle of Guern ... Seat] “ THE WILD MACRAAS.” 307 The Edinburgh Evening Courant of the 29th of October, 1728, contains the ...

Vol. 4  p. 307 (Rel. 0.22)

IS2 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Leith
brunt in assis, and all thair moveable guidis to be
escheat.”
On the 6th of August, 1600, as Birrel tells us in
his Diary, there came to Edinburgh tidings of the
King’s escape from the Gowrie Conspiracy, upon
which the castle guns boomed from battery and
tower j the bells clashed, trumpets were sounded
and drums beaten; the whole town rose in arms,
“with schutting of muskettis, casting of fyre
workes and boynfyirs set furth,” with dancing and
such merriness all night, as had never before been
seen in Scotland.. The Earl of Montrose, Lord
Chancellor, the Master of Elphinstone, Lord Treasurer,
with other nobles, gathered the people around
the market cross upon their knees, to give thanks
to God for the deliverance of the King, who crossed
the Firth on the 11th of the month, and was received
upon the sands of Leith by the entire male
population of the city and suburbs, all in their
armour, “with grate joy, schutting of muskettis,
and shaking of pikes.”
After hearing Mr. David Lindsay’s “ orisone,”
in St. Mary’s Church, he proceeded to the cross
of Edinburgh, which was hung with tapestry, and
where Mr. Patrick Galloway preached on the 124th
Psalm.
In 1601 a man was tried at Leith for stealing
grain by means of false keys, for which he was sentenced
to have his hands tied behind his back and
be taken out to the Roads and there drowned.
Birrel records that on the 12th July, 1605, the
King of France’s Guard mustered in all their bravery
on the Links of Leith, where they were sworn in
and received their pay ; but this must have referred
to some body of recruits for the Ecossuise du Roi,
of which ‘‘ Henri Prince d’Ecosse ” was nominally
appointed colonel in 1601, and which carried on
its standards the motto, In omni modo JdeZis.
Exactly twenty years later another muster in the
same place was held of the Scots Guards for the
King of France, under Lord Gordon (son of the
Marquis of Huntly), whose younger brother, Lord
Melgum, was his lieutenant, the first gentleman of
the company being Sir William Gordon of Pitlurg,
son of Gordon of Kindroch. (“ Gen. Hist. of the
Earls of Sutherland.”)
In the April of the year 1606 the Union Jack
first made its appearance in the Port of Leith. It
would seem that when the King of Scotland added
England and Ireland to his dominions, his native
subjects-very unlike their descendants-manifested,
says Chambers, the utmost jealousy regarding
their heraldic ensigns, and some contentions in
consequence arose between them and their English
neighbours, particularly at sea. Thus, on the 12th
April, 1606, “ for composing of some differences
between his subjects of North and South Britain
travelling by seas, anent the bearing of their flags,”
the King issued a proclamation ordaining the ships
of both nations to carry on their maintops the flags
of St. Andrew and St. George interlaced ; those of
North Britain in their stern that of St. Andrew, and
those of South Britain that of St. George.
In those days, whatever flag was borne, piracy
was a thriving trade in Scottish and English waters,
where vessels of various countries were often captured
by daring marauders, their crews tortured,
slaughtered, or thrown ashore upon lonely and
desolate isles. Long Island, on the Irish coast,
was a regular station for English pirate ships, and
from thence in 1609 a robber crew, headed by two
captains named Perkins and William Randall,
master of a ship called the Gryjhound, sailed for
Scottish waters in a great Dutch vessel called the
Iron Prize, accompanied by a swift pinnace, and
for months they roamed about the Northern seas,
doing an incredible deal of mischief, and they
even had the hardihood to appear off the Firth of
Forth.
The Privy Council upon this armed and fitted
out three vessels at Leith, from whence they sailed
in quest of the pirates, who had gone to Orkney to
refit. There the latter had landed near the castle
of Kirkwall, in which town they behaved barbarously,
were always intoxicated, and indulged
“in all manner of vice and villainy.” Three of
them, who had attacked a small vessel lying in
shore, belonging to Patrick Earl of Orkney, were
captured by his brother, Sir James Stewart (gentle
man of the bed-chamber to James VI.), and soon
after the three ships from Leith made their appearance,
on which many of the pirates fled in the
pinnace. A pursuit proving futile, the ships cap
tured the Iron Prize, but not without a desperate
conflict, in which several were killed and wounded.
lhirty English prisoners were taken and brought to
Leith, where-after a brief trial on the 26th of July
-twenty-seven of them, including the two captains,
were hanged at once upon a gibbet at the pier,
three of them being reserved in the hope of their
giving useful information. The Lord Chancellor,
in a letter to James VI., written on the day of the
execution, says that these pirates, oddly enough,
had a parson ‘‘ for saying of prayers to them twice
a day,” who deserted from them in Orkney, but
was apprehended in Dundee, where he gave evidence
against the rest, and would be reserved for
the King’s pleasure.
The next excitement in Leith was caused by the
explosion of one of the King’s large English ships ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Leith brunt in assis, and all thair moveable guidis to be escheat.” On the 6th of ...

Vol. 5  p. 182 (Rel. 0.22)

2 14 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. . [Castle Terrace.
Place, and now chiefly used as a coal dep8t.
Some of the merchants having coal offices here
are among the oldest and most extensive firms in
the city, one having been established so far back
as 1784 and having now business ramifications so
ample as to require a complete system of private
telegraphs for the transmission of orders between
their various offices and coal stores throughout
Edinburgh and the suburbs.
This station is reached from the East Princes
Street Gardens by a tunnel 3,000 feet in length,
passing under the West Church burial ground
and the foundations of several streets, and serves
as a port for the North British system at the West
End.
In its vicinity, on the north side of the way, is
a large Winter Garden at the corner between the
Glasgow Road and Coates Gardens. It was
formed in 1871, and has a southern front 130 feet
in length, with a main entrance 50 feet wide, 30
feet long, and surmounted by a dome 65 feet in
height.
A little westward of it is West Coates Established
Church, built in the later Pointed style, in
1869, with a tower and spire 130 feet in height.
It cost &7,500, and is seated for go0 persons.
The United Presbyterian Churches in Palmerston
Place (the old line of Bell's Mills Loan) and
Dalry Road were opened in 1875, and cost respectively
,f;13,000 and 'L5,ooo. The former is
an imposing edifice in the classic Italian style,
with a hexastyle portico, carrying semicircular
headed arches and flanked by towers IOO feet in
height.
On the gentle swell of the ground, about 600
yards westward of the Haymarket, amid a brilliant
urban landscape, stands Donaldson's Hospital, in
magnitude and design one of the grandest edifices
of Edinburgh, and visible from a thousand points
all round the environs to the westward, north,
and south. It sprang from a bequest of about
~210,000 originally by James Donaldson of
. Broughton Hall, a printer, at one time at the
foot of the ancient Rest Bow, who died in the
year 1830.
It was erected between the years 1842 and 1851,
after designs by W. H. Playfair, at a cost of about
~IOO,OOO, and forms a hollow quadrangle of 258
feet by 207 exteriorly, and 176 by 164 interiorly.
It is a modified variety of a somewhat ornate
Tudor style, and built of beautiful freestone. It
has four octagonal five-storeyed towers, each IZO
feet in height, in the centre of the main front,
and four square towers of four storeys each at the
corners; and most profuse, graceful, and varied
-
ornamentations on all the four fapdes, and much
in the interior.
It was speciallyvisited and much admired by
Queen Victoria in 1850, before it was quite completed,
and now maintains and ' educates poor
boys and girls. The building can accommodate
150 children of each sex, of whom a considerable
per centage are both deaf and dumb. According
to the rules of this excellent institution, those
eligible for admission are declared to be-'' I. Poor
children of the name of Donaldson or Marshall, if
appearing to the governors to be deserving. 2. Such
poor children as shall appear to be in the most destitute
circumstances and the most deserving of admission."
None are received whose parents are able
to support them. The children are clothed and
maintained in the hospital, and are taught such
useful branches of a plain education as will fit the
boys for trades and the girls for domestic service.
The age of admission is from seven to nine, and
that of leavhg the hospital fourteen years. The
Governors are the Lord Justice-General, the Lord
Clerk Register, the Lord Advocate, the Lord Provost,
the Principal of the University, the senior
minister of the Established Church, the ministers
of St. Cuthbert's and others ex-officio.
The Castle Terrace, of recent erection, occupies
the summit of a steep green bank westward of
the fortress and overhanging a portion of the old
way from the West Port to St. Cuthbert's. A
tenement at its extreme north-western corner is
entirely occupied by the Staff in Scotland. Here
are the offices of the Auxiliary Artillery, Adjutant-
General, Royal Engineers, the medical staff, and
the district Con~missariat.
Southward of this stands St. Mark's Chapel,
erected in 1835, the only Unitarian place of
worship in Edinburgh. It cost only Lz,ooo, and
is seated for 700. It has an elegant interior, and
possesses a iine organ. Previous to 1835 its congregation
met in a chapel in Young Street.
Near it, in Cambridge Street, stands the new
Gaelic Free Church, a somewhat village-like erection,
overshadowed by the great mass of the
United Presbyterian Theological Hall. The latter
was built in 1875 for the new Edinburgh or West
End Theatre, from designs by Mr. Pilkington, an
English architect, who certainly succeeded in
supplying an edifice alike elegant and comfortable.
In its fiqt condition the auditorium measured
70 feet square within the walls, and the accommodation
was as follows-pit and stalls, 1,ooo ;
dress circle and private boxes, 400; second
circle, 600; gallery, 1,000; total, 3,000. The
stage was expansive, and provided with all the ... 14 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. . [Castle Terrace. Place, and now chiefly used as a coal dep8t. Some of the merchants ...

Vol. 4  p. 214 (Rel. 0.22)

The West Bow.] THE HIDDEN SWORD. 317
from his sick-bed (a few months after to be his
death-bed, though he fled to Newcastle in the
interim); and, donning his armour, drew back the
arras of the Queen’s chamber, looking like a pale
spectre under his steel-barred helmet, on that fatal
night in the March of 1566, when he planted his
dagger into David Rizzio, whose death was mainly
his contrivance; and in the demolition of this
which the blade was covered, such as Vzncere a d
mori, Fide sed cui $e4 and Sdi De0 GZoria. The
manner of its concealment, and the fierce character
of the old Lord Ruthven, within whose ancient
lodging it was discovered, may readily suggest to
the fancy its having formed the instrument of some
dark and bloody deed ere it was consigned to its
strange hiding-place.”
ASSEMBLY ROOMS, WEST BOW.
(From U McMIrcd Diawing T. Hanriltm pu6lished im 1830).
house a singular relic of him apparently was discovered.
‘‘ Between the ceiling ,and floor in one
of the apartments, a large and beautifully chased
sword was found concealed, with the scabbard
almost completely decayed, and the blade, which
was of excellent temper, deeply corroded with
rust half-way towards the hilt.” Was this the corrosion
of blood? ’ “ The point of it,” says Daniel
Wilson, “was broken 06 but it still measured
324 inches long. The maker’s name, WILHELM
WIRSBERG, was inlaid in brass upon the blade.
His device, seemingly a pair of pincers, was
engraved on both sides, surmounted by a coronet,
and encircled on one side with a motto partly
defaced, and on the other with his name repeated,
and the words in.soZ.ingen. Various other mottoes
were engraved amid the ornamental work with
He died at the close of 1566, or early in the
following year;’ and a curious key, which was
found in the demolition of his house, was procured
by the Society of Antiquaries in 1848.
Up the West Bow for centuries did all that was
regal, noble, and diplomatic, advance on entering
the city; and down it, for 124 years-between the
Restoration and I f84-went more criminals than
can be reckoned, to their doom, and many a‘victim
of misrule, such as the luckless and unflinching
Covenanters, testifying to the last and glorying in
their fate.
Down the Bow, on the 3rd of September, 1716,
there were marched from the Castle, en route for
trial at Carlisle, eighty-nine Jacobite prisoners.
‘‘ The departing troop was followed by a wail of
indignant lament fiom the national heart, the ... West Bow.] THE HIDDEN SWORD. 317 from his sick-bed (a few months after to be his death-bed, though he fled to ...

Vol. 2  p. 317 (Rel. 0.22)

George Street.] THE BLACKWOODS. I39
CHAP,TER XIX.
GEORGE STREET.
Major Andrew Faser-The Father of Miss Femer-Grant of Kilgraston-William Blackwoad and his Magazine-The Mother of Sir Waltn
Scott-Sir John Hay, Banker-Colquhoun of Killermont-Mrs. Murray of Henderland-The Houses of Sir J. W. Gomon, Sir Jam-
Hall. and Sir John Sinclair of Ulbster-St. Andrew's Church-Scene of the Disruption-Physicians' Hall-Glance at the Histcry of thecollege
of Physicians-Sold and Removed-The Commercial Bank-Its Constitution-Assembly Rooms-Rules of 17+Banquet to Black
Watch-" The Author of Waverley"-The Music Hall-The New Union Bank-Its Formation, &c.-The Mlasonic Hall-Watsoa'E
Pictureof Bums-Statues of George IV., Pitt, and Chalmers. .
PREVIOUS to the brilliant streets and squares
erected in the northern and western portions of
new Edinburgh, George Street was said to have no
rival in the world ; and even yet, after having undergone
many changes, for combined length, space,
uniformity, and magnificence of vista, whether
viewed from the east or west, it may well be
pronounced unparalleled. Straight as an arrow
flies, it is like its sister streets, but is 1x5 feet
broad. Here a great fossil tree was found in 1852.
A portion of the street on the south side, near
the west end, long bore the name of the Tontine,
and owing to some legal dispute, which left the
houses there mfinished, they were occupied as
infantry barracks during the war with France.
Nos. 3 and 5 (the latter once the residence of
Major Andrew Fraser and cf William Creech the
eminent bookseller) forni the office of the Standard
Life Assurance Company, in the tympanum of
which, over four fine Corinthian pilasters, is a
sculptured group from the chisel of Sir John Steel,
representing the parable of the Ten Virgins. In
George Street are about thirty different insurance
offices, or their branches, all more or less ornate
in architecture, and several banks.
In No. 19, on the same side, is the Caledonian,
the oldest Scottish insurance company (having
been founded in June, 1805). Previously the
office had been in Bank Street. A royal charter
was granted to the company in May, 1810, and
twenty-three years afterwards the business of life
assurance was added to that of fire insurance.
No. 25 George Street was the residence (from
1784 till his death, in 18zg), of Mr. James Ferrier,
Principal Clerk of Session, and father of Miss
Susan Ferrier, the authoress of " Marriage," &c.
He was a keen whist player, and every night of his
life had a rubber, which occasionally included Lady
Augusta Clavering, daughter of his friend and client
John, fifth Duke of Argyll, and old Dr. Hamilton,
usually designated " Cocked Hat " Hamilton, from
the fact of his being one of the last in Edinburgh
who bore that head-piece. When victorious, he
wcdd snap his fingers and caper about the room,
to tbe manifest indignation of Mr. Ferrier, who
would express it to his partner in the words, "Lady
Augusta, did you ever see such rediculous leevity
in an auld man 7 " Robert Burns used also to be
a guest at No. 25, and was prescnt on one occasion
when some magnificent Gobelins tapestry arrived
there for the Duke of Argyll on its way to Inverary
Castle. Mrs. Piozzi also, when in Edinburgh, dined
there. Next door lived the Misses Edmonstone,
of the Duntreath family, and with them pitched
battles at whist were of frequent nightly occurrence.
These old ladies figure in " Marriage " as
Aunts Jacky, Grizzy, and Nicky; they were grandnieces
of the fourth Duke of Argyll. The eldest
Miss Ferrier was one of the Edinburgh beauties in
her day ; and Bums once happening to meet her,
while turning the corner of George Street, felt suddenly
inspired, and wrote the lines to her enclosed
in an elegy on the death of Sir D. H. Hair. Miss
Ferrier and Miss Penelope, Macdonald of Clanronald,
were rival belles ; the former married
General Graham ot Stirling Castle, the latter Lord
Belhaven.
In No. 32 dwelt Francis Grant of Kilgraston,
father of Sir Francis Grant, President of the Royal
Academy, born in 1803 ; and No. 35, now a shop,
was the town house of the Hairs of Balthayock, in
Perthshire.
No. 45 has long been famous as the establishment
of Messrs. Blackwood, the eminent publishers.
William Blackwood, the founder of the magazine
which stills bears his name, and on the model of
which so many high-class periodicals have been
started in the sister kingdom, was born at Edinburgh
in 1776, and after being apprenticed to the
ancient bookselling firni of Bell and Bradfute, and
engaging in various connections with other bibliopoles,
in 1804 he commenced as a dealer in old
books on the South Bridge, in No. 64, but soon
after became agent for several London publishing
houses. In 1S16 he disposed of his vast stock of
classical and antiquarian books, I 5,000 volumes in
number, and removing to No. 17 Princes Street,
thenceforward devoted his energies to the business
of a-general publisher, and No. 17 is to this day a
bookseller's shop. ... Street.] THE BLACKWOODS. I39 CHAP,TER XIX. GEORGE STREET. Major Andrew Faser-The Father of Miss ...

Vol. 3  p. 139 (Rel. 0.22)

280 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Lord Provosts.
burgh of great numbers of‘ His Majesty’s subjects
and strangers, there should be three weekly market
days for the sale of bread, when it should be
lawful for dealers, both buyers and landward, to
dispose of bread for ready money; three market
days for t k sale of meat under the same circumstances,
were also established-Sunday, Monday,
and Thursday.
In I 5 28 the Lord Maxwell became again provost
of Edinburgh, and when, some years after, his
exiled predecessor, Douglas of Kilspindie, became
weary of wandering in a foreign land he sought in
vain the clemency of James V., who, in memory of
all he had undergone at the hands of the Douglases,
had registered a vow niver to forgive them.
The aged warrior-who had at one time won the
affection of the king, who, in admiration of his
stature, strength, and renown in arms, had named
him ‘‘ Greysteel,” after a champion in the romance
of ‘‘ Sir Edgar and Sir Guion ”-threw himself in
lames’s way near the gates of Stirling Castle, to seek
pardon, and ran afoot by the side of his horse, encumbered
as he was by heavy armour, worn under
his clothes for fear of assassination. But James
rode in, and the old knight, sinking by the gate in
exhaustion, begged a cup of water. Even this was
refused by the attendants, whom the king rebuked
for their discourtesy ; but old Kilspindie turned
sadly away, and died in France of a broken heart.
In the year 1532 the provost and Council furnished
James V. with a guard of 300 men, armed
on all “pointts for wayr,” to serve against his
“ enimies of Ingland,” in all time coming.
In 1565, when Mary was in the midst of her
most bitter troubles, Sir Simon Preston of Craigiiiillar
and that ilk was provost, and it was in his
house, the Black Turnpike, she was placed a
prisoner, after the violated treaty of Carberry Hill ;
and four years after he was succeeded in office by
the celebrated Sir William Kirkaldy of Grange.
In 1573 Lord Lindsay was provost, the same
terrible and relentless noble who plotted against
Kizzio, led the confederate lords, conducted Mary
to Lachleven, who crushed her tender arm with
his steel glove, and compelled her under terror of
death to sign her zbdication, and who lived to
share in the first Cowrie conspiracy.
In 1578 the provost was George Douglas of
Parkhead, who was also Governor of the Castle ; a
riot having taken place in the latter, and a number
of citizens being slain by the soldiers, the Lords of
the Secret Council desired the magistrates to remove
him from office and select another. They
craved delay, on which the Council deposed
Douglas, and sent a precept commanding the city to
choose a new provost within three hours, under pain
of treason. In obedience to this threat Archibald
Stewart was made interim provost till the usual
time of election, Michaelmas ; previous to which,
the young king, James VI., wrote to the magistrates
desiring them to make choice of certain
persons whom be named to hold their offices for
the ensuing year. On receiving this peremptory
command the Council called a public meeting of
the citizens, at which it was resolved to allow no
interference with their civic privileges. A deputation
consisting of a bailie, the treasurer, a councillor,
and two deacons, waited on His Majestyat Stirling
and laid the resolutions before him, but received no
answer. Upon the day of election another letter was
read from James, commanding the Council to elect
as magistrates the persons therein named for the
ensuing year ; but notwithstanding this arbitrary
command, the Council, to their honour, boldly u p
held their privileges, and made their own choice of
magistrates.
Alexander Home, of North Berwick, was provost
from 1593 to 1596. He was a younger son of
Patrick Home of Polwarth, and his younger sister
was prioress of the famous convent at North Berwick,
where strange to say she retained her station
and the conventual lands till the day of her death.
In 1598 a Lord President of the College of
Justice was provost, Alexander Lord Fyvie, afterwards
Lord Chancellor, and Earl of Dunfermline
in 1606. Though the time was drawing near for
a connection with England, a contemporary writer
in 1598 tells us that “in general, the Scots would
not be attired after the English fashion in anysort;
but the men, especially at court, followed the
French fashion.”
Sir William Nisbet, of Dean, was provost twice
in 1616 and 1622, the head of a proud old race,
whose baronial dwelling was long a feature on the
wooded ridge above Deanhaugh. His coat of
arms, beautifully carved, was above one of the doors
of the latter, his helmet surmcunted by the crest of
the city, and encircled by the motto,
“ HIC MIHI PARTrVS HONOS.”
It was in the dark and troublesome time of
1646-7, when Sir Archibald Tod was provost, that
James Cordon, the minister of Rothiemay, made his
celebrated bird‘s-eye view of Edinburgh-to which
reference has been made so frequently in these
pages, and of which we have engraved the greater
Part.
James Cordon, one of the eleven sons of the
Laird of Straloch, was born in 1615. He was
M.A. of Aberdeen, and in April, 1647, he submitted ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Lord Provosts. burgh of great numbers of‘ His Majesty’s subjects and strangers, there ...

Vol. 4  p. 280 (Rel. 0.22)

Fanester’s Wynd.] THE “MIRROR” CLUB. rzr
i “The Diurnal of Occurrents” records, that in
1566, John Sinclair, Bishop of Brechin, Dean of
Restalrig, and Lord President of the College of
Justice, died in Forrester‘s Wynd, in the house of
James Mossman, probably the same man who was a
goldsmith in Edinburgh at that time, and whose
father, also Jarnes Mossrnan, enclosed with the
present four arches the crown of Scotland, by
order of James V., when Henry VIII. closed
the crown of England. In consequence of the
houses being set on fire by the *Castle guns under
Kirkaldy, in 1572, it was ordered that all the
thatched houses between Beith’s J7ynd and St.
Giles’s should be unroofed, and that all stacks of
heather should be carried away from the streets
Fleshmarket Close ; but oftener, perhaps, in Lucky
Dunbar’s, a house situated in an alley that led
between Liberton’s Wynd and that of Forrester’s
Wynd. This Club commenced its publication of
the Mirror in January, 1729, and terminated it in
May, 1780. It was a folio sheet, published weekly
at three-halfpence. The *Lounger, to which Lord
Craig contributed largely, was commenced, by the
staff of the Mirror, on the 6th ot February, 1785,
and continued weekly till the 6th of January, 1787.
paid to their morals, behaviour, and every branch
of education.”
In this quarter Turk’s Close, Carthrae’s, Forrester’s,
and Beith’s Wynds, all stood on the slope
between Liberton’s Wynd and St. Giles’s Church ;
but every stone of these had been swept away many
years before the great breach made by the new
bridge was projected. Forrester‘s Wynd occurs so
often in local annals that it must have been a place
of some consideration.
JOHN DOWIE’S TAVERN. (Fs~m fk Engraving in How’$ YearBwk.’)
Among the members of this literary Club were Mr.
Alexander Abercrombie, afterwards Lord Abercrombie
; Lord Bannatyne ; Mr. George Home,
Clerk of Session ; Gordon of Newhall ; and a Mr.
George Ogilvie ; among their correspondents were
Lord Hailes, Mr. Baron Hurne, Dr. Beattie, and
many other eminent literary men of the time ; but
of the IOI papers of the Lounger, fifty-seven are
the production of Henry Mackenzie, including his
general review of Burns’s poems, already referred to.
In Liberton’s Wynd, we find from the Ediduygh
Advertiser of 1783, that the Misses Preston,
daughters of the late minister of Narkinch, had a
boarding school for young ladies, whose parents
“may depend that the greatest attention will be
18 ... Wynd.] THE “MIRROR” CLUB. rzr i “The Diurnal of Occurrents” records, that in 1566, John Sinclair, ...

Vol. 1  p. 121 (Rel. 0.22)

150 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. LGeorge 2:rtet.
of the first, accompanied by Major-General Hope
and that famous old literary officer General Stewart
of Garth, who had been wounded under its colours
in Egypt; and nothing could surpxss the grand,
even tearful, enthusiasm with which the veterans
had been welcomed “in every town and village
through which their route from England lay.
Early on the ~gth,” says the Scots Magazine, “vast
crowds were collected on the streets, in expectation
of their arrival. The road as far as Musselburgh
was crowded with people ; and as they approached
the city, so much was their progress impeded by the
multitude that their march from Piershill to the
castle-less than two miles-occupied two hours.
House-tops and windows were crowded with spectators,
and as they passed along the streets, amid
the ringing of bells, waving of flags, and the
acclamation of thousands, their red and black
plumes, tattered colours-emblems of their wellearned
fame in fight-and glittering bayonets, were
all that could be seen of these heroes, except by
the few who were fortunate in obtaining elevated
situations. The scene, viewed from the windows
and house-tops, was the most extraordinary ever
witnessed in this city. The crowds were wedged
together across the whole breadth of the street, and
extended in length as far as the eye could reach,
and this motley throng appeared to tnove like a
solid body, till the gallant Highlanders were safely
lodged in the castle.”
To the whole of the non-commissioned officers
and privates a grand banquet by public subscription,
under the superintendence of Sir Walter Scott, was
given in the Assembly Room, and every man was
presented with a free ticket to the Theatre Royal.
Asimilar banquet and ovation was bestowed on the
78th or Ross-shire Buffs, who marched in a few
days after.
It was in the Assembly Rooms that Sir Walter
Scott, on the 23rd February, 1827, at the annual
dinner of the Edinburgh Theatrical Fund Association,
avowed himself to be “the Great Unknown,”
acknowledging the authorship of the Waverley
Novels-scarcely a secret then, as the recent exposure
of Constable’s affairs had made the circumstance
pretty well known, particularly in literary
circles.
In June 1841 a great public banquet was given
to Charles Dickens in the Assembly Rooms, at
which Professor Wilson presided, and which the
novelist subsequently referred to as having been
a source of sincere gratification to him.
The rooms underwent considerable improvements
in 1871 ; but two shops have always been
in the basement storey, and the western of these
.
is now occupied by the Edinburgh branch of the
ImperiaI Fire and Life Assurance Company.
In immediate connection with the Assembly
Rooms is the great music hall, built in 1843’ at
the cost of more than .&IO,OOO, It is a magnificent
apartment, with a vast domed and panelled
roof, 108 feet long by 91 feet broad, with orchestral
accommodation for several hundred performers,
and a powerful and splendid organ, by Hill of
London.
It is the most celebrated place in the city for
public meetings. There, in 1853, was inaugurated
by Lord Eglinton and others, the great Scottish
Rights Association, the ultimate influence of which
procured so many necessary grants of money for
Scottish purposes; in 1859 the first Burns Centenary,
and in 1871 the first Scott Centenary, were celebrated
in this hall. There, tooJ has the freedom of
the city been bestowed upon many great statesmen,
soldiers, and others. There has Charles Dickens
cften read his “Christmas Carols” to delighted
thousands ; and there it was that, in 1856, the great
novelist and humourist, Thackeray, was publicly
hissed down (to the marked discredit of his audience,
be it said) in one of his readings, for making disparaging
remarks on Mary Queen of Scots.
The new Union Bank of Scotland is on the
south side of tbe street, Commenced in 1874, it
was finished in 1878, from designs by David
Bryce, R.S.A. It is in the Tuscan style, with a
frontage of more than IOO feet, and extends southwards
to Rose Street Lane. It exhibits three
storeys rising from a sunk basement, with their
entrances, each furnished with a portico of Ionic
columns. The first floor windows are flanked by
pilasters, and furnished with entablatures and
pediments ; the second floors have architraves,
and moulded sills, while the wall-head is terminated
by a bold cornice, supporting a balustrade. The
telling-room is magnificent-fully eighty feet long
by fifty feet broad, and arranged in a manner alike
commodious and elegant. In the sunk basement
is a library, with due provision of safes for various
bank purposes, and thither removed, in 1879, the
famous old banking house to which we have more
than once had occasion to fefer, from its old quarters
in the Parliament Square, which were then
announced as for sale, with its fireproof interior
“of polished stone, with groined arches on the
various floors ; its record rooms, book and bullion
jafes of dressed stone, alike thief and fire proof.”
Here we may briefly note that the Union Bank
was incorporated in 1862, and its paid-up capital
is .&I,OOO,OOO; but this bank is in reality of a
much older date, and was originally known as the ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. LGeorge 2:rtet. of the first, accompanied by Major-General Hope and that famous old ...

Vol. 3  p. 150 (Rel. 0.22)

hills of Braid to the sandy shores of the Firth of
Forth.
Edinburgh, now within a few hours’ journey from
London, was long the capital of a land that was
almost a ferra incogniia, not only to England, but
to the greater part of Europe, and remained so till
nearly the era of the Scott novels. Spreading over
many swelling hills and deep ravines, that in some
instances are spanned by enormous bridges of stone,
it exhibits a striking peculiarity and boldness in its
features that render it totally unlike any other city
in the world, unless we admit its supposed resemblance
to Athens.
Its lofty and commanding site ascends gradually
from the shore of the great estuary, till it terminates
in the stupendous rock of the Castle, 500
feet above the level of the sea, and is surrounded
on the southward, east, and west, by an amphitheatre
of beautiful hills, covered either with purple
heath or the richest copse-wood; while almost from
amid its very streets there starts up the lionshaped
mountain named Arthur’s Seat, the bare and
rocky cone of which has an altitude of 822 feet.
In Edinburgh every step is historical; the
memories of a remote and romantic past confront
us at every turn and corner, and on every side
.arise the shades of the dead. Most marked, indeed,
is the difference between the old and the
new city-the former being sa strikingly picturesque
in its broken masses and the disorder of its architecture,
and the latter so symmetrical and almost
severe in the Grecian and Tuscan beauty of its
streets and squares ; and this perhaps, combined
with its natural situation quite as much as its
literary character, may have won for it the fanciful
name of “ the Modem Athens.”
On one hand we have, almost unchanged in
general aspect, yet changing in detail at the
xuthless demands of improvement, the Edinburgh
of the Middle Ages-“the Queen of the
North upon her hilly throne”-the city of the
Pavids and of five gallant Jameses-her massive
mansions of stone, weather-beaten, old, dark, and
time-worn, teeming with historical recollections oi
many generations of men ; many painful and man)
pitiful memories, some of woe, but more of wai
and wanton cruelty; of fierce combats and feudal
battles ; of rancorous quarrels and foreign invasions,
and of loyal and noble hearts that were wasted and
often broken in their passionate faith to religion
and a regal race that is now no more.
On the bther hand, and all unlike the warrioi
city of the middle ages, beyond the deep ravint
overlooked by Princes Street-that most beautifu
of European terraces-and by that noble pinnaclec
xoss which seems the very shrine of Scott, we
iave the modern Edinburgh of the days of peace
ind prosperity, with all its spacious squares and
ir-stretching streets, adorned by the statues of
those great men who but lately trod them. And
50 the Past and the Present stand face to face,
by.the valley where of old the waters of the North
Loch lay.
Ih these pages, accordingly, we intend to summon
back, like the dissolving views in the magic
mirror of Cornelius Agrippa, the Edinburgh of the
past, with all the stirring, brilliant, and terrible
events of which it has been the arena.
The ghosts of kings and queens, of knights and
nobles, shall walk its old streets again, and the
brave, or sad, or startling, story of every time-worn
tenement will be told ; nor shall those buildings that
have passed away be forgotten. Again the beacon
fires shall seem to blaze on the grassy summits of
Soltra and Dunpender, announcing that southern
hosts have crossed the Tweed, and summoning
the sturdy burgesses, from every echoing close and
wynd, in all the array of war, to man their gates
and walls, as all were bound, under pain of death,
to do when the Deacon Convener of the Trades
unfurled “the Blue Blanket ” of famous memory.
In the ancient High Street we shall meet King
David riding forth with hound and horn to hunt in
his forest of Drumsheugh, as he did on that Roodday
in harvest when he had the alleged wondrous
escape which led to the founding of Holyrood ; or
we may see him seated at the Castle gdte, dispensing
justice to his people-especially to the poor
-in that simple fashion which won for him the
proud title of the Scottish Justinian.
In the same street we shall see the mail-clad
Douglases and Hamiltons carrying out their
mortal feud with horse and spear, axe and sword ;
and anon meet him “who never feared the face of
man,” John Knox, grown old and tottering, whitebearded
and wan, leaning on the arm of sweet
young Margaret Stewart of Ochiltree, as he proceeds
to preach for the last time in St. Giles’s;
and we shall also see the sorrowing group that
gathered around his grave in the old churchyard
that lay thereby, and where still that grave is
marked by bronzes let into the pavement.
Again the trumpets that breathed war and defiance
shall ring at the Market Cross, and we may
hear the mysterious voice that at midnight called
aloud the death-roll of those who were doomed to
fall on Flodden field,. and the wail of‘woe that
went through the startled city when tidings of the
fatal battle ca’me.
We shall see the countless windows of those ... of Braid to the sandy shores of the Firth of Forth. Edinburgh, now within a few hours’ journey ...

Vol. 1  p. 2 (Rel. 0.22)

Calton HilL] THE NATIONAL MONUMENT. 109
~
Grand Master of Scotland, the various loQges
proceeded in procession from the Parliament Square,
accompanied by the commissioners for the King,
and a brilliant concourse. The foundation-stone
of the edifice (which was to be 228 feet long, by
IOZ broad) weighed six tons, and amid salutes of
cannon from the Castle, Salisbury Craigs, Leith
Majesty, the patron of the undertaking. The celebrated
Parthenon of Athens being model of the edifice.”
The Scots Greys and 3rd Dragoons formed
the escorts. Notwithstanding the enthusiasm displayed
when the undertaking was originated, and
though a vast amount of money was subscribed, the
former subsided, and the western peristyle alone
THE NATICNAL MORUMEST, CALTON HILL.
Fort, and the royal squadron in the roads, the
inscription plates were deposited therein, One is
inscribed thus, and somewhat fulsomely :-
‘‘ To the glory of God, in honour of the King, for
the good of the people, this monument, the tribute
of a gratefur country to her gallant and illustrious
sms, as a memorial of the past and incentive to the
future heroism of the men of Scotland, was founded
on the 27th day of August in the year of our Lord
1822, and in the third year of the glorious reign of
George IV., under his immediate auspices, and in
commemoration of his most gracious and welcome
visit to his ancient capital, and the palace of his
royal ancestors; John Duke of Atholl, James Duke
of Montrose, Archibald Earl of Rosebery, John
Earl of Hopetoun, Robert Viscount Melville, and
Thomas Lord Lynedoch, officiating as commissioners,
by the special appointment of his august
was partially erected. In consequence of this
*emarkable end to an entefprise that was begun
mder the most favourable auspices, the national
monument is often referred to as “Scotland’s
pride and poverty.” The pillars are of gigantic
proportions, formed of beautiful Craigleith stone ;
each block weighed from ten to fifteen tons, and
each column as it stands, with the base and frieze,
cost upwards of LI,OOO. As a ruin it gives a
classic aspect to the whole city. According to the
original idea, part of the edifice was to be used as
a Scottish Valhalla
On the face of the hill overlooking Waterloo
Place is the monument of one of Scotland’s gredtest
philosophers. It is simply inscribed :-
DUGALD STEWART.
BORN NOVEMBER 22ND, 1753;
DIED JUKE KITH, 1828. ... HilL] THE NATIONAL MONUMENT. 109 ~ Grand Master of Scotland, the various loQges proceeded in procession ...

Vol. 3  p. 109 (Rel. 0.22)

196 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGR, [High Street.
Torthorwald could defend himself, ran him through
the body, and slew him on the spot.
Stewart fled from the city, and of him we hear
no more ; but the Privy Council niet twice to consider
what should be done now, for all the Douglases
were taking arms to attack the Stewarts of
Ochiltree. Hence the Council issued imperative
orders that the Earl of Morton, James Commendator
of Melrose, Sir George and Sir Archibald
Douglas his uncles, William Douglas younger of
Drumlanrig, Archibald Uouglas of Tofts, Sir James
Dundas of Arniston, and others, who were breathing
vengeance, should keep within the doors of
their dwellings, orders to the same effect being
issued to Lord Ochiltree and all his friends.
“ There is a remarkable connection of murders
recalled by this shocking transaction,” says a historian.
‘‘ Not only do we ascend to Torthorwald’s
slaughter of Stewart in 1596, and Stewart’s deadly
prosecution of Morton to the scaffold in 1581 ; but
William Stewart was the son of Sir William Stewart
who was slain by the Earl of Bothwell in the Blackfriars
Wynd in 1588.”
A carved marble slab in the church of Holyrood,
between two pillars on the north side, still marks
the grave of the first lord, who took his title from
the lonely tower of Torthonvald on the green brae,
between Lockerbie and Dumfries. It marks also
the grave of his wife, Elizabeth Carlyle of that ilk,
and bears the arms of the house of Douglas,
quartered with those of Carlyle and Torthorwald,
namely, beneath a ch2f charged with three pellets,
a saltire proper, and the crest, a star, with the inscription
:-
“ Heir lyis ye nobil and poten Lord Jarnes Dovglas, Lord
of Cairlell and Torthorall, vlm maned Daime Eliezabeth
Cairlell, air and heretrix yalof; vha vas slaine in Edinburghe
ye xiiii. day of Ivly, in ye zeier of God 1608-vas slain in
48 ze.
The guide daily reads this epitaph to hundreds
of visitors ; but few know the series of tragedies of
which that slab is the closing record.
In the year 1705, Archibald Houston, Writer to
the Signet in Edinburgh, was slain in the High
Street. As factor for the estate of Braid, the property
of his nephew, he had incurred the anger of
Kennedy of Auchtyfardel, in Lanarkshire, by failing
to pay some portion of Bishop’s rents, and Houston
had been “put to the horn” foithis debt. On the
20th March, 1705, Kennedy and his two sons left
their residence in the Castle Hill, to go to the usual
promenade of the time, the vicinity of the Cross.
They met Houston, and used violent language, to
: which he was not slow in retorting. Then Gilbert
Kennedy, Auchtyfardel’s son, smote him on the
L. I. D. E. C.”
face, while the idlers flocked around them. Blows
with a cane were exchanged, on which Gilbert Kennedy
drew his sword, and, running Houston through
the body, gave him a mortal wound, of which he
died. He was outlawed, but in time returned
home, and succeeded to his father’s estate. According
to Wodrow’s “ Analecta,” he became morbidly
pious, and having exasperated thereby a
servant maid, she gave him some arsenic with his
breakfast of bread-and-milk, in 1730, and but for
the aid of a physician would have avenged the
slaughter gf Houston near the Market Cross in
1705.
One of the last brawls in which swords were
drawn in the High Street occurred in the same
year, when under strong external professions of
rigid ‘Sabbath observance and morose sanctity of
manner there prevailed much of secret debauchery,
that broke forth at times. On the evening of the
2nd of February there had assembled a party in
Edinburgh, whom drinking and excitement had so
far carried away that nothing less than a dance in
the open High Street would satisfy them. Among
the party were Ensign Fleming of the Scots
Brigade in the Dutch service, whose father, Sir
James Fleming, Knight, had been Lord Provost in
1681 ; Thomas Barnet, a gentleman of the Horse
Guards ; and John Galbraith, son of a merchant in
the city. The ten o’clock bell had been tolled in
the Tron spire, to warn all good citizens home;
and these gentlemen, with other bacchanals, were
in full frolic at a pzrt of the street where there was
no light save-such as might fall from the windows
of the houses, when a sedan chair, attended by two
footmen, one of whom bore a lantern, approached.
In the chair was no less a personage than David
Earl of Leven, General of the Scottish Ordzance,
and member of the Privy Council, proceeding on
his upward way to the Castle of which he was
governor. It was perilous work to meddle with
such a person in those times, but the ensign and his
friends were in too reckless a mood to think of
consequences; so when Galbraith, in his dance
reeled against one of the footmen, and was warned
off with an imprecation, Fleming and his friend of
the Guards said, “ It would be brave sport to overturn
the sedan in the mud.” At once they assailed
the earl’s servants, and smashed the lantern. His
lordship spoke indignantly from his chair ; then
drawing his sword, Fleming plunged it into one
of the footmen ; but he and the others were overpowered
and captured by the spectators.
The young “rufflers,” on learning the rank of
the man they had insulted, were naturally greatly
alarmed, and Fleming dreaded the loss of his corn
’ ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGR, [High Street. Torthorwald could defend himself, ran him through the body, and slew him ...

Vol. 2  p. 196 (Rel. 0.22)

373 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH.
C
Cable’s Wynd, Leith, XI. 226, 227
Caddies,orstreetmesngers, I. 151,
Cadell and Co.. Robert. I. 2x1. 11.
152
. .
171
Caer-almon (Cmmond), 111. IQ
“Cage,” The, 11. 348
Caiiketton Craigs, 111. 324
Cairncross, Robert. the simonist,
111. ir6-
Caithness. Earl of. I. 111. 118. 111. . .-_,
4,63, 348, 350
Calcraft the actor I. 350
Calderwlood, Sir &lliam, 111. 359
Calderwocd, the historian, I. 50,
126, 1432 150, 151, 195, 104, 218,
22 19, 11. 131, 225, 330. 341. IIP~ :,, 61,170! 183, 184, 228,231
Caledontan Distillery, 11. 218
Caledonian Horticultural Society,
Caledonlan InsuranceCompany, XI.
Caledonian Railway, 11. 116, 138
Caledonian Theatre 11. 179
Caledonian United’ Service Club,
I. 379.
139.
11. 153
Callender, Colonel James, 11. 162
Calton ancientlya burgh, 11. 103
Calton burying-ground, 11. 101,
103, * ‘05, * 108, 111. 78
Calton gaol I. 176, 11. 31, ‘105,
228, 28- fI. 243
Calton $11, I. 55. 76, 136, 300, 11.
17, 18, raa--rr+ 161, 182, 191,
296, 306, 111. 82, 128, 151 158,
165, zog ; view of, 11. * 105 :view
from, 11. * I q
Calton Stairs, I. z p
Cambridge Street, 11. 214
Cambuskenneth, Abbots of, I. 1r8,
Camden Lord I. 272
Camera’John he Provost, 11.278
Cameroh, Sir Dincan, 11. 163
Cameron, Bishop Alexander, 11: 179
Camemn Bridge, 111. 58
Cameron, Charter of Thomas, 11.
Camemn clansmen, The, I. 326,330
Cameronbns, The, I. 63, 67, 111. ,‘ 30, 195-
Camp Meg,” and her story, 111.
159. 253
251
337
Campbell, Lord, the judge, XI. 195
Campbell, Lord Niel, I. a03
Campbell Lord Frederick, 11. 143
Campbell: Sir James, I. 282
Campbell, Lady, 11. 128
Campbell, Lady Charlotte, XI. 192,
3x8
Campbell, Lady Eleanor, I. 103,
104 : her m a k a e to Lord Stair. .. -
I. 103
Black Warch, I. 274
Campbell, Lieut.-Col. John, of the
Campbell of Aberuchill, Sir James,
Campbell of Ardkinglass, Si James,
Campbeli of Baicaldine 111. 162
Campbellof Elythswood, Col. John,
111. 135
1. 239 * Lady 162
III. a7.
Campbell of Bcquhan General
Campbell of Bumbank, I. 67
Campbell of Glenorchy, Duncan,
Campbell of Kevenknock 11. 183
Campbellof Loudon, He;, 111.334
Campbell of Shawfield, House of,
Campbell of Skipness, Archibald, 1.
Campbellof Succoth, Si Archibald,
I1 ‘4 > 1873 344
Cam&il of Succoth, Sir Islay, I.
98, 11. 143, 270, 344; house of,
Campbell, Duncan, the lithotomist,
I. 320
Campbell, Mungo, I. 320 ; Earl of
Eglinton murdered by, I. 132,
=34. I[. 307
Campbell, john Hwke, I. 372
Campbell, Precentor, I. 107
Campbell of Mamore, Primrose,
widow of Lord Low, 1. 255.
(Fletcher of Saltoun), iII. go
111. 35
11. 168
84
hmpbell, Thomas, the poet, I. I-
:amp)beli, ;he opponent of Hume,
3amphell the tailor, 11. 271
Jampbell: the historian of Leith,
111. 238 246 258
3ampbe11’5 Niw Buildings, XI. a71
lamus Stone, The, 111. -326
lanaan Lane, 111. 40
Janaan Lodge, 111. 39
:anal Basin, The, 11. 215
Sanal Street 11.
lanch, Majdr, IIP63
Sandlemaker Row, I. 292, 11. 121,
168, 230, 239, 244 242, 259, 260,
~ 6 7 ~ 268, 271, 374, 375, 3% 381,
bndlish, Rev. Dr,, I. 87, 11. 138,
210, 111. 75
Cannon-ball in wall of house in
Castle Hill, I. 88, *rp
Cannye, Sir Thomas, 11. 102
Canongate Church, 11. 28, *29.
111. 91, 158; Ferguswn’s grave,
XI. 34 Dugald Stewart’s grave,
11. 206
79, 90s 97s 1053 I34 ‘557 191, 1%
19% 217, 219, 2797 2987 3341 11. 1
-411 1738 23 7 241, 250, 288, 3307
161, 165, 188, 191 ; emnent rwdents
in, I. 282; origin of the
name 11. I ; songsconcerning it,
X I . 2 : records, 11. 2 3; burgh
sealofthe, 11. * 3 ; pahngofthe,
11. 3; burghal seals, 11. za ; becomes
subordinate to Edinburgh,
11. 3; cleansing of the, 11. 15 ;
plans of the 11. “ 5 16, *36 ; its
fashionable’ residehts, 11. 17 ;
views of, 11. *37 : anciently a
burgh, 11. ‘03; its guard, 11.183
Canongate Cross 111.
Canongate-head ’The ? 375
Canongate The&, ’The, I. 341,
342, 343 11. 2 258, 310; disturbance‘
s at tte, XI. 23, 24;
closing of the, 11. 25
Canongate Tolbooth, The, 11. *I,
stocks from the old
Y;d2t?i1. * 31
Canonmills,’ II. 47, 115, 181, 184,
191, 278, 111. 70, 71, 78, 83, 86,
87 101, 124
Can&mills and Inverleith, 111.
86-102
Canonmills House, 111. ’93
Canonmills Loch, 111. 86,306
Canonmills Loch and House, 111.
Canonmills Park, 111. 84
Cant Adam 11. 241
Cant: Alexander, 11. 241
Cant, Andrew, Principal of the
University, 111. IT
Cant’sClose, I. 115 253,264,II. 241
Cant’s hostelry, Lehh, 111. 180
Cantore’s Close, Luckenbooths, 11.
Cap-and-Feather Close, I. 238, 337
Cap-and-Feather Club, 111. 123
Cape Club, The, I. 230, 111.125 ;
knights of the, I. 230
Capelaw HiU, 111. 324
Capella John de, Lord of Craigmillat!,
111. 58, 59, 61
Capillaire Club The 111. 124
Carberry, Surrinder Gf Queen Mary
at, 11. 71, 280
Cardonel Commissioner, 11. 26
Cardrod, Laird of, 1. 230
Cargilfield, 111.
Care ill, Donald, t%:r&cher, I I. 231
Caribris, William of, 11. 241
Carlisle Road 11. 346
Carlton Stree;, Stockbridge,II. rgg,
Carlung Place 111. 46
Carlyle of Inviresk, Dr., I. 322,323,
324 11. a6 a7, 111. 31 241. 366
Carlhe, Thdmas 11. &, 337, Ill.
24 79, 323; ;is bequest to the
Uhiversity, 111. 26
Carmelite monastery, Greenside,
XI. I01 102
Carmichael, Sir John, 1. 275
Carnegie, Lady Mary, I. 282
C;mlinePark,II. 11~,11I.302.308, m, 311 ; entrance to, 111. *31a
344 11 -32
I. 156
111. 115
Canongate, The. I. 43. 54, 5s. 78,
346, 354, 117. 6, 12, 59. 86, 13+
= 85
a82
111. 71, 79. 83
Cam, Robin,EarlofSomerset,II.366
Carriages, Nuntberof,in 1783~11.282
Carrick. Earls of, 111. 32, 221, 222
Carmbber’s Close, I. 83, 238, 239,
I. 240; gen+lity In 16.
Cam the painter d.
Camoh, Dr. AglioAb Ess, Rector
of the High Sch0oT:II. III, 296
Carruthers, Bishop Andrew 11.179
Carstares or Carstairs, pllincipal,
I. %, 371, 11. 378, HI. 16; tomb,
Carthne’s Wynd, I. IZI
Cassillis, Earls of, I. 91, 111. 4,298
“ Castell of Maydens,” The, 1. 15
Castle, The (reeEdinburgh Castle)
Castle, The, from Princes Street,
G t l e Barns, 11. 215
Castlecom y lhe, I. 78
Castle E s p c d e , 11. 230
Castle farm, The, I. 78
Castle Hill, The, I. XI, 7 9 9 4 , 1 5 4
187, 18% 313, 3 4 3’97 33% 33Ir
338. 11. 157, 2m 2317 ‘35 2397
111. 12, 99 181 194 195‘view
of the I. * k.8 ; h a c , of Mary of
Guise’ I. *
Castle doad %e I. *328
Castle rock,’ I. ;94, 295, 11. 131,
215, 224, 267, 111. 108
Castle Street, 11. 99, 118, 119, 162,
11. 136, 241.,.242, 3x0; in,
11. 381
PZate 17
163-165 230 270
Castle Te&ace,’I. 295, 11. 214
Casde Wynd. I. 47. 11. 235, 256
Castlehill; Lord, l l r 1 7
Castrum Puellarum I. 15
Casualty Hospital h t h 111. 248
Cat Nick, The I.’rp, li. 306, 307
Catchpel, The &me of, 11. 39
Cathcart Lord I1 348
Catholic’ and ’Apostolic Church
Theold 11.184. the new 11 18;
Catholicdhurch ofour Lad;,L;ith,
111.24)
Catholic Institute The, I. 300;
Causeway-end, The 11. 132
Causeway-side, Th;, I. 326, 111:
doorhead in the,’&
47, 50
Cauvin Louis 11.318 III.131,142
Cauvin’s Hoipital, iI. 318, 111.
131, ‘43
243-245
The first, Ill. 191
Cayley, Capt., Tragic story of, 11.
Celeste Madame I. 351 ’
Census)of Edindurgh and Leith,
Centenarians, Two, 11. 221
Chain pier Newhaven 111. 303
I‘ Chaldee ’Manuscript:” The, 11.
Chalmers,’ Sir &&e, I. 106, 11.
179
Chalmers, Dr., 11. 96, 97, 126, 144,
145, 146, 155 204 *. 205,295, Ill.
50, 323; d u e df, 11. 151; his
death 111. 38 148
Chalrneis, theaitiquarian, I. I Z , I ~ ,
111. 113, 164, 215, 218, 230, 357,
Chalmers’ Close, I. 240, 261, zrp
Chalmers’ Entry 11. 33
Chalmers’ HosAtal, I?. 363 ; its
Chalmen ’Memorial Free Church,
Chalmers Territorial Free Church,
140, 156 111. 87 149
363
founder i6.
111.50
XI. 224
Chamher of Commerce and Manu.
facture- I. 123
Chamberlhn Road 111.38
Chambers, Sir W i l i i , the archi-
Zha1116ers’s Edidrwgh Joimral, I.
lhambers Street, I. 381, 11. 256,
2572 2% 2717 272, 274, 2751 276,
Chancery Office, I. 372
Change, The 1. 151 176
Ehantrev. FAncis. i. 15a : statues
224
* q 7 , 284, 111. 23
by I.-& 11. 151 -..
Chakl Lane, Leith, 111. 231, 235
Chapel of Our Lady 11. zz5
Chapel Royal, Ho&rood House
XI. *49;groundplan of,II.*5zf
bell from, 11. 247
chapel of ease, 11. 346
Chapel Wynd 11. 224
Chapman (or’ Chepman) Walter,
the printer, I. 142, Id. 214(ree
Chepman)
Chanty Workhouse, The, 11. 19,
r d , 323, *324
Charles I., I. 50-54, 123, 11.2, 127
181, IEz, 14. 219. 211, 60, 301 f
his -sit to Edinburgh, 1. 50, 51,
11. z,p. zzz, 227, ~ $ 3 , 290, 111.
135, aog; proclamation of, 111.
184 : coronation, I. 51, 72,208, XI.
5% 73
Charles 11, 1. 54, 55, 59, 114 166,
227, 11. 74 I11.151,186 208 222,
352 ; birth’ of, I. 200 ; &pukric,
of, 11. 74 ; statue or, I. 176, 182,
111. 72
Charles Edward Prince I. 6 234,
PI 953 1% 138, 196 222, 240, 326,
341, 355; popuhrlty of I. 22
326, 327. 11. a3 ; his &rival i;
Edinburgh, I. 322, 11. 133 ; portraits
of, I. 329,,* 333 ; his w.uetary
I. 351. his farewell ring,
11. 87 ; relics’of, 11. 124; alle ed
marriage of his son, 11. 159 ;%is
death 11. 247, 111. 231- Court of, 11: 22 ; statues of, I. I’84, 186,
Chapel Street, 11. 333, 339, 345;
261, 318, 321i334, ii. 74,’ 111.
11. 127
Charles X. of France at Holyrocd,
11. 76, 78
Charles Street, I I . 3 3 3 , ~ ~ 344,345,
340
Charles’s Field, 11. 333, 334
Charlotte Lane, Leith, 111. 220
Charlotte Square, II.118,172-1 5,
111. 82; mew of the square, 11.
*173 ; the Albert memorial, 11.
‘75 *I7 284
Chariotte &reet 11. 165
CharlotteStreet,’Leith. III.221,243
Charteris, Hon. Francis, I. 178
Charteris, Lady Betty, 11. 27
Charteris, Henry, the patient bookseller
11. 102
Charte;is ofAmisfield, Hon. Francis,
11. 168, 111. 270
Charteris Col. Francis 111. 365,
366 ; his love of gambling, i6.
Charters Mrs. the actress, I. 347
Chartergof Edinburgh, I. 34. 35
Chatelherault, Duke of, I. 47, 277,
305 11. 65 111. 2 3 116 178
Chepkn of EwirLnh, W’alter, I.
Chessel s Buildings, 11. * 25
Chess& Court, I. 113, 2 1 7 , h . 23
Chesterhall, Lord, I. 271, 273
Chevalier dq,la BeautB, The, 1. +z
“Chevalier The 11.351 352
Chief magktrate) of Ednburgh,
Titles of 11. 277
Chiesley, dapt., and Lieut. Moodie,
Qua!rel between, 111. 30
Chieslie Major 11.217
Chieslie: Rachd, Lady Grange, 11.
115
ChiedyofDalry I. 117,248,11.216,
217, 2~3:.tom6of, If. *381; murder
of Sir George Lockhart by,
255, 256
I. 117, 11. I,
Chirurgeons’ &:I, 382
Choral Societ 1. a86
Christ Churcl: Morningside. 111.
38, ‘41
Christ Church, Trinity, 111. 307
Christie, Sir Robert, ProvostJI. 323
Christison, Sir Robert, the toxicolo-
Christison, ikxander, Professor of
“Christopher North,” I. 7, I“, I1
gist, 11. I 5, 272, 358
Humanity, 11. 295, q4
127,193, z q , 111. 148 ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. C Cable’s Wynd, Leith, XI. 226, 227 Caddies,orstreetmesngers, I. 151, Cadell and ...

Vol. 6  p. 372 (Rel. 0.21)

High Street.] THE ROYAL MINT. 267
Fortune’s tavern, removed from Skinner‘s Close to
a house at the north-west corner of Nicolson
Square, and latterly at No. 2, St. Andrew Square
(now the London Hotel), where he died, in his
eightieth year, in ISOZ.
In his lordship’s time the office of Commissioner
to the Church, which he held from 1783 to 1801, was
attended with more “pomp and circumstance”
Treasurer, under date February, 1562-3 :-
“ Item, allowit to the carpenter, be payment maid
to Johne Achesoun, Maister Congreave, to Maister
William M‘Dowgale, Maister of Werk, for expensis
maide be him vpon the bigging of the Cwnge-house,
within the castell of Edinburgh, and beting of the
qvnge-hous within the Palice of Halierud-house,
fra the xi. day of Februar, 1559, zens, to the
Comniissioner proceeded on foot, escorted by his
guard of honour.
South Gray’s, or the Mint Close, was one of the
stateliest alleys in the old city, and herein stood the
Cunzie flous, as the Scottish Mint was named
(after its removal from near Holyrood in Queen
Mary’s time) till the Union in 1707, and until lately
its sombre and massive tower of finely polished
ashlar projecting into the narrow thoroughfare of
Cowgate, for three hundred and four years formed
one of the leading features of the latter, and to the
last the old edifice retained many traces of the important
operations that once went on within its
walls.
The first Mint House had been originally erected
in the outer court of the palace of Holyrood, somewhere
near the Horse Wynd, fromwhence, for greater
safety, it was removed to the castle, in which a new
Mint House had been built in 1559, as shown by
edifices of the period,” says Wilson, describing
the edifice prior to its removal. “The whole
building was probably intended, when completed,
to form a quadrangle, surrounded on every side by
the same substantial walls, well suited for defence
against any ordinary assault, while its halls were
lighted from the enclosed court. The small windows
in this part of the building remain in their
original state, being divided by an oaken transom,
and the under part closed by a pair of folding
shutters. The massive ashlar walls are relieved
by ornamental stringcourses, and surmounted by
crowsteps of the earliest form and elegant proportions.
. . . . The internal marks of former
magnificence are more interesting than their external
ones, notwithstanding the humble uses to
which the buildings have latterly been applied ;
in particular some portions of a very fine oak
ceiling still remain, wrought in Gothic panelling, ... Street.] THE ROYAL MINT. 267 Fortune’s tavern, removed from Skinner‘s Close to a house at the north-west ...

Vol. 2  p. 267 (Rel. 0.21)

256 OLD AND NE\V EDINBURGH. [High Street.
to be the same tenement with which he endowed
an altar in the chapel of the Holyrood, at the
south or lower end of St. Giles’s churchyard.
From the trial in 15 r4, the year after Flodden, of
“ane quit for slauchter in his awin defence,” we
learn that Walter Chepman was Dean of Guild for
the City.
‘‘The 24th day of October, anno suprascript,
Alexander Livingstone indytit and accusit for the
art and pairt of the creuall slauchter of umquhile
Lady Lovat-niece of the first Duke of Argyllwas
born in I 7 I 0, and, under great domestic pressure,
became the wife of that cunning and politic.
old lord, who was thirty years her senior, and by
no means famous for his tenderness to her predecessor,
Janet Grant of that ilk. She passed years.
of seclusion at Castle Downey, where, while treated
with outward decorum, she was secretly treated.
with a barbarity that might have broken another
woman’s heart. Confined to one apartment, she,
HOUSE OF THE ABBOTS OF MELROSE, STRICHEN’S CLOSE.
(From az Engraving in the Roxburgh Edition of Sir Walfet Scoft’s “Monnstrv.“!
Jak, upoun the Eurrowmuir of Edinburgh in this
month of September by-past. Thai beand reniovit
furth of court, and again in enterit, they fand
and deliverit the said Alexander quit and innocent
of ye said slauchter, because tha; clearlie knew
it was in his pure defence. John Livingstoune
petiit instrunienta. Testibus Patricio Barroun et
Johanne Irland, Ballivis, Magistro Jacobo Wischeart
de Pitgarro, cleric0 Justiciario S.D.N.
Regis, Waltero Chepman Decano Gild, Johanne
Adamson juniore, Jacobo Barroun, Patricio Flemyng,
et muZtis diis.”
This, says Amot, is the earliest trial to be found
in the records of the city of Edinburgh.
was seldom permitted to leave it, even for meals,
and was supplied for these with coarse scraps
from his lordship’s table. They had one son,
Archibald Fraser, afterwards a merchant in
London, and before his birth the old lord swore
that if she brought forth a girl he would roast it to
death on the back of the fire ; and he often threat-.
ened her, that if aught befel the two boys of his first
marriage in his absence, he would shoot her through
the head. “A lady, the intimate friend of her
youth,” says Sir Walter Scott, “was instructed to.
visit Lady Lovat, as if by accident, to ascertain the
truth of those rumours concerning her husband’s
conduct which had reached the ears of her family-
. ... OLD AND NE\V EDINBURGH. [High Street. to be the same tenement with which he endowed an altar in the chapel of ...

Vol. 2  p. 256 (Rel. 0.21)