Old and New Edinburgh

Old and New Edinburgh

Search

Index for “engravings of old edinburgh closes”

Cassell's Old and New Edinburgh
Its History, its People, and its Places.
Illustrated by numerous Engravings.

Division I.

Cassell, Petter, Galpin & Co.:
London, Paris & New York.
[All rights reserved.] ... Old and New Edinburgh Its History, its People, and its Places. Illustrated by numerous ...

Vol. 1  p. xii (Rel. 4.23)

OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. cst. Andrew Sq-
ST. ANDREW SQUARE,
The Royal Eank of Scotland.
The Scottish Provident Institution.
The British Linen Company's Rank
The Scottish Widows' Fund Office.
CHAPTER XXIII.
CHAR L 0 T T E S (2 U X R E.
Charlotte Square-Its Early Occupants-Sir John Sinclair, Bart.-Lamond of that Ilk-Sir Williarn Fettes-Lord Chief Commissioner Adam-
Alexander Dirom-St George's Church-The Rev. Andrew Thornson-Prince Consort's Memorial-The Parallelogram of the first New
Town.
CHARLOTTE SQUARE, which corresponds with that
of St. Andrew, and closes the west end of George
Street, as the latter closes the east, measures about
180 yards each way, and was constructed in 1800,
after designs by Robert Adam of Maryburgh, the
eminent architect ; it is edificed in a peculiarly
elegant and symmetrical manner, all the fasades
corresponding with each 0the.r. In 1874 it was
beautified by ornamental alterations and improvements,
and by an enclosure of its garden area, at a
cost of about d3,000. Its history is less varied
than that of St. Andrew Square.
During the Peninsular war No. z was occupied
by Colonel Alexander Baillie, and therein was the
Scottish Barrack office. One .of the earliest OCCUpants
of No. 6 was Sir James Sinclair of Ulbster, ... AND NEW EDINBURGH. cst. Andrew Sq- ST. ANDREW SQUARE, The Royal Eank of Scotland. The Scottish Provident ...

Vol. 3  p. 172 (Rel. 2.41)

it, sixty feet wide, bordering the Albert and
other docks, and, in addition to the edifices
specially mentioned, contains the offices of the
Leith Chamber of Commerce, instituted in 1840,
and incorporated in 1852, having a chairman,
deputy-chairman, six directors, and other officials ;
the sheriff-clerk's office; that of the Leith Burghs
PiZoi, and the offices of many steamship companies.
At the north-east angle of Tower Street stands
the lofty circular signal-tower (which appears in
THE EXCHANGE BUILDINGS.
son has a view of the door and staircase window of
No, 10, which bears the date 1678, with the initials
R.M. within a chaplet.
In No. 28 is the well-known Old Ship Hotel,
above the massive entrance of which is carved, in
bold relief, an ancient ship ; and No. 20 is the
equally well-known New Ship Tavern, or hotel, the
lower flat of which is shown, precisely as we find it
now, in the Rotterdam view of I 700, with its heavily
moulded doorway, above which can be traced,
several of our engravings), so long a leading
feature in all the seaward views of Leith, and the
base of which, so lately as 1830, was washed by
the waves at the back of the old pier. It was
originally a windmill for making rape-oil, as described
by Maitland, and it is distinctly delineated
in a view (seep. 173) of Leith Harbour about 1700,
now in the Trinity House, to which it was brought
by one of the incorporation, who discovered it at
Rotterdam in 1716. Part of the King's Wark is
also shown in it.
What is called the Shore, or quay, extends from
the tower southward to the foot of the Tolbooth
Wynd, and is edificed by many quaint old buildings,
with gables, dormers, and crowsteps. Robertthrough
many obliterations of time and paint, a
Latin motto from Psalm cxxvi, most ingeniously
adapted, by the alteration of a word, to the calling
of the house-"Ne dormitet custos tuus. Ecce
non dormitat neque dormit custos domus" (Israelis
in the original), which is thus translated-"He
that keepeth thee will not slumber. Behold, he
that keepeth the house (Israel) shall neither slumber
nor sleep."
The taverns of Leith have always.held a high
repute for their good cheer, and were always the
resort of Edinburgh lawyers on Saturdays. The
host of the '' Old Ship I' is very prominently mentioned
by Robert Fergusson in his poem, entitled
'' Good Eating." ... sixty feet wide, bordering the Albert and other docks, and, in addition to the edifices specially mentioned, ...

Vol. 6  p. 245 (Rel. 1.61)

Cowgate.] ANCIENT
Both these relics are now preserved in the
Museum of Antiquities.
An act of the Privy Council in 1616 describes
Edinburgh as infested by strong and idle vagabonds,
having their resorts “in some parts of the Cowgate,
Canongate, Potterrow, West Port, &c., where
they ordinarily convene every night, and pass their
time in all kind of not and filthy lechery, to the
offence and displeasure of God,” lying all day on
CLOSES. 241
Close in 1514; Todrig’s Wynd is mentioned in
1456, when Patrick Donald granted two merks
yearly from his tenement therein for repairing the
altar of St. Hubert, and in 1500 a bailie named
Todrig, was assaulted with drawn swords in his
own house by two men, who were taken to the Tron,
and had their hands stricken through.
Carrubber‘s Close was probably named from
“ William of Caribris,” one of the three bailies in
THE COWGATE, FROM THE PORT TO COLLEGE WYND, 1646. ( A f b cfdsthumay.)
17. The Cowgate ; 44, Peebles Wynd ; 45, Merlin’s Wynd ; 46, Niddry’s Wynd ; 47, Dickson’s Close : 50, Gnfs Wynd ; 5% St Mad5 w p d ;
h St Mary’s Wpd Suburbs ; I; Cov&e Port ; g, Si M a j s Wynd Port ; 53, The College Wynd ; 54. Robertson’s Wynd ; 55. High
School Wynd ; q, Lady Yeser‘s Kirk ; .r, The High School ; w, The College ; y, S i M;uy of the Fields, or the Kirk of Fields ; 25, The
Town Wall.
the causeway, extorting alms with “ shameful exclamations,”
to such an extent that passengers could
neither walk nor confer in the streets without being
impeded and pestered by them ; hence the magistrates
gave orders to expel them wholesale from the
city and keep it clear of them.
The Burgh Records throw some light on the
names of certain of the oldest closes-those running
between the central street and the Cowgate, as being
the residences or erections of old and influential
citizens. Thus Niddry’s Wynd is doubtless connected
with Robert Niddry, a magistrate in 1437 ;
Cant’s Close with Adam Cant, who was Dean of
Guild in 1450, though it is called Alexander Cant’s
79
1454, as doubtless Con’s Close was from John Con,
a wealthy flesher of 1508. William Foular’s Close
is mentioned in 1521, when Bessie Symourtoun
is ordered to be burned there on the cheeks and
banished for passing gear infected with the pest ;
and Mauchan’s Close was no doubt connected
with the name of John Mauchane, one of the bailies
in 1523; Lord Eorthwick’s Close is frequently
mentioned before 1530, and Francis Bell’s Close
occurs in the City Treasurer‘s Accounts, under date
1554. Liberton’s Wynd is mentioned in a charter
by James 111. in 1474, and the old protocol books of
the city refer to it frequently in the twelve years
preceding Flodden ; William Liberton’s heirs are ... ANCIENT Both these relics are now preserved in the Museum of Antiquities. An act of the Privy Council ...

Vol. 4  p. 241 (Rel. 1.59)

C0NTENTS.
CHAPTER I.
THE CANONGATE.
@AGE
I& Origin-Songs concerning it-Reaords-Market Cross-St. John's and the G i h Crosses-Early History-The Town of Her-
Canongate Paved-The Governing Body-Raising the Devil-Purchase of the Earl of Roxbwgh's "Superiority"-The Foreign
Settlement-George Heriot the Elder-Huntly's HouseSu Walter Scott's Story of a Fire--The Mo- Land-How of Oliphant
of Newland, Lord David Hay, and Earl of Angus-Jack's Land-Shoemaker's Lands-Marquis of Huntly's House-Nisbet of Duleton'd
Mansion-Golfers' Land-John and Nicol Paterson-The Porch and Gatehouse of the Abbey-Lucky Spellcc . . . . . . I
CHAPTER 11.
THE CANONGATE (continwd).
Execution of the Marquis of Montrose-The First Dromedary in Scotland-The streets Cleansed-Raxbugh House--London Stages of r71a
and 175+-Religious Intolerance-Declension of the Burgh . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
CHAPTEK 111.
THE CANONGATE (con#i+vwd).
Closes and AlleF on the North Side-Fiesh-market and Coull's Cloxs-Canongate High School-&e's Close--Riillach's Lodging-New
Street and its Residents-Hall of the Shoemakers-Sir Thos Ddyell-The Canongate Workhouse-Panmure HousbHannah
Robertson-The White Horse Hostel-% Water Gate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17
CHAPTER IV.
THE CANONGATE (continued).
Closes and Alleys on the South Side-Chessel's Court-The Canongate Theatre-Riots Therein-"Douglas" Performed-Mr. Diggea and Mra.
Bellamy-St. John's Close-St. John's Street and iks Residents-The Haaunennan's Clo~-Horse Wynd, Abbey-House of Lord Napier 22
CHAPTER V.
THE CANONGATE (roniinued).
Separate or Detached Edifices therein-Sir Walter Scott in the Canongate--The Parish C%urch-How it came to be built-Its Official
Position- Its Burying Ground-The Grave of Fergusson-Monument to Soldiers interred the-Ecceotric Henry PrentiaThe
Tolbth-Testimony as to its Age-Its latu uses-Magdakne Asylum-Linen Hall-Many House-Its Hstorical Associari ons-The
WiotooXo-Whiteford Howe-The Dark Story of Queuriberry House . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 7
CHAPTER VI.
THE CANONGATE (coduded).
mthiin H u t - M PalmerstowSt. Thomas's Hospita-The Tennis Court and its Theawe4&wen Mq's --The Houxr of Croftan-
Righandclock-mill . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38
CHAPTER ' VII.
HOLYROOD ABBEY.
Foundation of the Ahbey-Text of King David's Charter-Original Extent of the Abbey Char&-The sc-alled Miracdau b - T h e
Pawnages of the Canons-Its Tbirtyanc Abbots-Its Relics and Revenues . . . . . . . . . . . . 42 ... I. THE CANONGATE. @AGE I& Origin-Songs concerning it-Reaords-Market Cross-St. John's and ...

Vol. 4  p. 385 (Rel. 1.55)

The Lawnmarket.
ninety-nine, Portraits of Anderson and his daughter,
in Vandyke costumes, the former with a book
in his hand, and the latter with a pill the size of a
walnut between her fingers, are still preserved in
$he house. It was in 1635 that the Doctor first
tablature, bearing the date 1690, is the main enT
trance to this court, the principal house of which,
forming ,its northern side, has a very handsome
doorway, peaked in the centre, like an ogee arch,
with ornate mouldings that mark the handiwork of
ASSEMBLY HALL (From M Engrayingpu6ZisJiedin 1845.)
made known the virtues of his pills, which is really
a good form of aloetic medicine.
In Mylne’s Court, on the north side of the Lawnmarket,
we find the first attempt to substitute an
open square of some space for the narrow closes
which so long contained the town residences of
the Scottish noblesse. Under a Roman Doric enthe
builder, Robed Mylne, who erected the more
modem portions of Holyrood Palace-the seventh
royal master-mason, whose uncle’s tomb, on the
east side of the Greyfriars churchyard, bears that
he-
‘‘ Sixth master-mason to a royal race,
Of seven successive kings, sleeps in this placc” ... Lawnmarket. ninety-nine, Portraits of Anderson and his daughter, in Vandyke costumes, the former with a ...

Vol. 1  p. 96 (Rel. 1.48)

Parliament Close.] ‘‘ THE BEACON.” I81
pied by John Kay, the well-known engraver and
caricaturist, whose “Portraits” of old Edinburgh
characters certainly form, with their biographies,
perhaps the most unique collection in Europe.
During his whole career he occupied the same small
print-shop ; the solitary window was filled with his
own etchings, which amounted to nearly go0 in
pumber. He had originally been a barber, but
after 1785 devoted himself solely to the art of
etching and miniature painting. He died in 1830,
at No. 227, High Street, in his eighty-fourth year.
-
menced business in the Parliament Close, where,
in 1783, he started a new monthly miscellany,
named 2% Edinburgh Magazine, illustratec3 with
engravings, the principal papers in which were
articles on Scottish antiquities, the production ot
his own pen. He was also the projector of the
Edivbu~g8 iYeraZd, which, however, was soon discontinued.
Relinquishing his establishment in
the Close about 1792, he devoted himself to a
literary life in London j but, after a somewhat
chequered career, returned to Edinburgh, where
about the year 1636. At their base was an ancient
public well. The Edinburgh WeekZy Juurnal for
1821 mentions that a man fell over “the stairs which
lead from the Kirkheugh to the Parliament stairs;”
and the sameJoumaC for 1828 states that “workmen
are engaged in taking down the large double
tenement in the Cowgate, at the back of the Parliament
House, called Henderson’s Stairs, part of
which, it will be remembered, fell last summer, and
which had been condemned sixty years ago,” in
1768.
In 1781 James Sibbald, an eminent bookseller
and literary antiquarian, the son of a Roxburgh
farmer, who came to Edinburgh with LIOO in his
pocket, after being employed in the shop of Elliot
the publisher, purchased the old circulating library
that had belonged to Allan Ramsay, and cornliament
Close, or
Square as it was
then becoming more
generally named, was
the scene of an unseemly
literary fracas,
arising from political
hatred and circumstances,
by which one
life was ultimately
lost, and which might
have imperilled even
that of Sir Walter
Scott. A weekly
paper, called the
Beacon, was established
in Edinburgh,
the avowed object of
which was the support
of the then Government,
but which
devoted its colun~ns
the leading Whig nobles and gentlemen of
Scotland. This system of personal abuse gave
rise to several actions at law, and on the 15th
of August a rencontre took place between
James Stuart of Dunearn, who conceived his
honour and character impugned in an article which
he traced to Duncan Stevenson, the printer of the
paper, in the Parliament Square. Stuart, with a
horsewhip, lashed the latter, who was not slow in
retaliating with a stout cane. “The parties were
speedily separated,” says the Scots Magazine for
1816, “and Mr. Stevenson, in the course of the
day, demanded from Mr. Stuart the satisfaction
customary in such cases. This was refused by
Mr, Stuart, on the ground that, ‘as the servile
instrument of a partnership of slander,’ he was unworthy
of receiving the satisfaction of a gentleman. ... Close.] ‘‘ THE BEACON.” I81 pied by John Kay, the well-known engraver and caricaturist, whose ...

Vol. 1  p. 181 (Rel. 1.37)

High Street. NIDDRY’S WYND. 245
to protect the powdered head of loftily-dressed
hair, when walking or driving, and it could be
folded back flat like the hood of a carriage ; they
also wore the capuchin or short cloak tippet,
reaching to the elbows, usually of silk. trimmed
with velvet or lace. In walking, they camed the
skirt of the long gown over one arm, a necessary
precaution in the wynds and closes of 1750, as
well as to display the rich petticoat below ; but on
.entering a room, the full train swept majestically
behind them ; and their stays were SO long, as to
touch the chair before and behind when seated.
The vast hoops proved a serious inconvenience
in the turnpike stairs of the Old Town, when, as
ladies had to tilt them up, it wa5 absolutely necessary
to have a fine show petticoat beneath; and
we are told that such ‘‘ care was taken of appear-
.ances, that even the gartxs were worn fine, being
either embroidered, or having gold or silver fringes
and tassels. , . . Plaids were worn by ladies to
cover their heads and muffle their faces when they
went into the street ; ” and we have already shown
how vain were the fulniinations of magistrates
.against the latter fzshion.
In 1733 the silk stockings worn by ladies and
gentlemen were so thick, and so heavily adorned
with gold and silver, that they could rarely be
washed perhaps more than once. The Scottish
ladies used enormous Dutch fans ; and all women
high and low ,wore prodigious busks.
Below the Old Assembly Close is one named
from the Covenant, that great national document
and solemn protest against interference with the
Teligion of a free people having been placed for
signature at a period after 1638 in an old mansion
long afterwards used as a tavern at the foot of
the alley.
Lower down we come to Bell’s Wynd, 146, High
Street, which contained another Assembly Room,
for the Edinburgh fashionables, removed thither, in
1758, to a more commodious hall, and there the
weekly reunions and other balls were held in the
season, until the erection of the new hall in George
Street.
Hair Street, and Hunter’s Square, which was built
in 1788, occasioned the removal of more than
one old alley that led down southward to the
Cowgate, among them were Marlin’s and Peebles’
Wynds, to which we shall refer when treating of
the North and South Bridges. The first tenement
of the former at the right corner, descending, marks
the site of Kennedy’s Close, on the first floor of
the first turnpike on the left hand, wherein George
Buchanan, the historian and poet, died in his 76th
year, on the morning of Friday the 28th of
September, 1582, and from whence he was borne
to his last home in the Greyfkiars’ churchyard.
The last weeks of his life were spent, it is alleged,
in the final correction of the proofs of his history,
equally remarkable for its pure Latinity and for its
partisan spirit. He survived its appearance only a
month.
When on his death-bed, finding that all the
money he had about him was insufficient to defray
the expense of his funeral, he ordered his servant
to divide it among the poor, adding “that if the
city did not choose to bury him they might let him
lie where he was.”
The site of his grave is now unknown, though a
“throchstone ” would seem to have marked it so
lately as 1710. A skull, believed to be that of
Buchanan, is preserved in the hluseum of the
University, and is so remarkably thin as to be
transparent; but the evidence in favour of the
tradition, though not conclusive, does not render
its truth improbable. From the Council Records
in 1701, it would seem that Buchanan’s gravestone
had sunk into the earth, and had gradually
been covered up.
In the En’inburph Magazine for 1788 we are told
that the areas of some of the demolished closes
westward of the Tron Church and facing Blair
Street, were exposed for sale in April, and that
‘‘ the first lot immediately west of the new opening
sold for _f;z,ooo, and that to the southward for
A1,500, being the upset price of both.”
Niddry’s Street, which opens eastward of the
South Bridge, occupies the site of Niddry’s Wynd,
an ancient thoroughfare, which bore an important
part in the history of the city. “ It is well known,”
says Wilson, “ that King James VI. was very condescending
in his favours to his loyal citizens of
Edinburgh, making no scruple, when the larder
of Holyrood grew lean, and the privy purse was
exhausted, to give up housekeeping for a time,
and honour one or other of the substantial burghers
of his capital with a visit of himself and household
; or when the straitened mansions within the
closes of old Edinburgh proved insufficient singly
to accommodate the hungry train of courtiers, he
would very considerately distribute his favours
through the whole length of tlie close ! ”
Thus from Moyse’s (or Moyses’) Memoirs, page
I 82, we learn that when James was troubled by the
Earl of Bothwell in January, 1591, and ordered
Sir James Sandilands to apprehend him, he, with
the Queen and Chancellor (and theirsuiteof course),
“withdrew themselves within the town of Edinburgh,
and lodged themselves in Nicol Edward’s
house, in Niddry’s Wynd, and the Chancellor in ... Street. NIDDRY’S WYND. 245 to protect the powdered head of loftily-dressed hair, when walking or driving, ...

Vol. 2  p. 245 (Rel. 1.28)

Currie’s, and Dewar‘s Closes on the north side of
the market, were all doomed to destruction by the
late City Improvement Act.
In the vicinity of the first-named alley, whose
distinctive title implied its former respectability as a
paved close, was a tenement, dated 1634, with a
fine antique window of oak and ornamental leaden
tracery, and an adjacent turnpike stair has the
THE CORN EXCHANGE, GRASSMARKET.
of December, 1793, so many members of the
memorable British Convention were seized and
made prisoners, with several English delegates,
when holding a political meeting for revolutionary
purposes and correspondence with the
French Republic.
In these transactions and meetings, Robert
Watt, a wine merchant, and David Downie, became
God . for , all . his . Giftis,” and the initials,
“L B. G. EL” .
In Currie’s Close was an ancient door, only two
feet nine inches broad, with the halfdefaced
legend :
GOD . GIVES THE . . . . RES . . . .
and the initials, “ G. B.” and ‘‘ B. F,” and a shield
charged with a chevron and something like a boar‘s
head in base.
In 1763 such a diversion as cockfighting was
utterly unknown in Edinburgh, but in twenty years
after, regular matches or maim, as they were technically
termed, were held, and a regular cockpit for
this school of gambling and cruelty was built in
the Grassmarket, and there it was that, on the 12th
death for high treason. After the dispersion of
the British Convention in the Grassmarket, they
became active members of a “ Committee of
Union,” to collect the sense of the nation, and of
another body styled the Committee of Ways and
Means,” of which Downie, who was a goldsmith in
the Parliament Close, and an office-bearer of his
corporation, was appointed treasurer. In unison
With the London Convention, the ‘‘ Friends of the
People ” in Edinburgh had lost all hope of redress
for their alleged .political wrongs by constitutional
means, and designs of a dangerous nature were
considered-wild schemes, of which Watt was the
active promoter.
Their first attempt was to suborn the Hopetoun
Fencibles, then at Dalkeith, and under orders for ... and Dewar‘s Closes on the north side of the market, were all doomed to destruction by the late City ...

Vol. 4  p. 236 (Rel. 1.12)

 Castle Hill.
well-known in his time as a man of taste, and the
patron of Runciman the artist.
mond, of Megginch, who jilted him for the Duke
of Athol.
doors and panels that are still preserved. Over
one of the former are the heads of King James V.,
“ For lack of gold she left me, O!
And of all that’s dear bereft me, 0 I
For Athol’s Duke
She me forsook,
And to endless care has left me, 0 I ”
The Doctor died in 1774, in his house at the northwest
corner of Brown Square; but his widow
survived him nearly twenty years. Her brother
John, twelfth Lord Semple, in 1755 sold the
An ancient pile of buildings, now swept away,
but which were accessible by Blyth’s, Tod’s, and
Nairne’s Closes, formed once the residence of
Mary of Lorraine and Guise, widow of James V.,
and Regent of Scotland from 1554 to 1560. It
iS conjectured that this palace and oratory were
erected immediately after the burning of Holyrood
and the city by the English in 1544, when the
I up her residence for a few days after the murder
of Rizzio, as she feared to trust herself within
the blood-stained precincts of the palace. Over
its main doorway there was cut in old Gothic
letters the legend &us Aonor Deo, with I. R.,
the initials of King James V., and at each end
were shields having the monograms of the Saviour
and the Virgin. The mansion, though it had been
sorely changed and misused, still exhibited some
large and handsome fireplaces, with beautifully
clustered pillars, and seven elaborately sculptured
with his usual slouched bonnet, and of his queen,
whose well-known beauty certainly cannot be traced
in this instance.
A portion of this building, accessible by a stair
near the head of the close, contained a hall, with
other apartments, all remarkable for the great
height and beauty of their ceilings, on all of which
In the de- I were coats armorial in fine stucco.
widowed queen would naturally seek a more secure
habitation within the walls of the city, and close
to the Castle guns. In this edifice it is supposed
that Mary, her daughter, after succeeding in detaching
the imbecile Dmley from his party, took
corated chimney of the former were the remains
of one of those chains to which, in Scotland, the
poker and tongs were usually attached, to prevent
their being used as weapons in case of any sudden
quarrel, One chamber was long known as the ... Castle Hill. well-known in his time as a man of taste, and the patron of Runciman the artist. mond, of ...

Vol. 1  p. 92 (Rel. 1.06)

282 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [High Street.
style, with many ornate gables, dormer windows,
%ut was a second time stolen ; and in the strangulation
on the scaffold, and the being fouricl in a
ditch among water, the superstitious saw retributive
justice for the murder of which he was
assumed to be guilty. “ I t will be acknowledged,”
says the author of the “ Domestic Annals,”
“that in the circumstances related there is not a
particle of valid evidence against the young man.
The surgeons’ opinion as to the fact of strangulation
is not entitled to much regard ; but, granting
its solidity, it does not prove the guilt of the ac-
.cused. The horror of the young man on seeing
his father’s blood might be referred to painful recol-
Jections of that profligate conduct which he knew
had distressed his parent, and brought his grey
hairs with sorrow to the grave-especially when we
reflect that Stanfield would himself be impressed
with the superstitious feelings of the age, and might
.accept the hzmorrhage as an accusation by heaven
on account of the concern his conduct had in
shortening the life of his father. The whole case
:seems to be a lively illustration of the effect of
superstitious feelings in blinding justice.”
We have thus traced the history of the High
Street and its closes down once more to the
Nether Bow.
In the World’s End Close Lady Lawrence was
a residenter in 1761, and Lady Huntingdon in 1784,
and for some years after the creation of the New
Town, people of position continued to linger in the
Old Town and in the Canongate. And from Peter
Williamson’s curious little ‘‘ Directory ” for 1784,
we can glean a few names, thus :-
I Scottish gentleman, who, though he did not partici-
Lady Mary Carnegie, in Bailie Fyfe’s Close;
Lady Colstoun and the Hon. Alexander Gordon,
on the Castle Hill; General Douglas, in Baron
Maule’s Close; Lady Jean Gordon, in the Hammerman’s
Close; Sir James Wemyss, in Riddle’s
Close; Sir John Whiteford of that ilk, in the
Anchor Close ; Sir Jameg Campbell, in the Old
Bank Close; Erskine of Cardross, in the Horse
Wynd ; Lady Home, in Lady Stair’s Close.
In Monteith‘s Close, in 1794, we find in the
“ Scottish Hist. Register for 1795 recorded the
death of Mr. John Douglas, Albany herald, uncle
of Sir Andrew Snape Douglas, who was captain of
the Queen CharZoffe, of IIO guns, and who fought
her so valiantly in Lord Bridport’s battle on “ the
glonous 23rd of June, 1795.” The house occupied
‘by Lady Rothiemay in Turk’s Close, below
Liberton’s Wynd, was advertised for sale in the
Couranf of 1761 ; and there lived, till his death in
1797, James Nelson, collector of the Ministers’
Widows’ Fund.
In Morrison’s Close in 1783, we find one of the
most fashionable modisfes of Edinburgh announcing
in the Adverfiser of that year, that she is from “one
of the most eminent houses in London,” and that
her work is finished in the newest fashions :-
“ Chemize de Lorraine, Grecian Robes, Habit Bell,
Robe de Coure, and Levites, different kinds, all in
the most genteel and approved manner, and on the
most reasonable terms.”
In the same year, the signboard of James and
Francis Jeffrey, father and uncle of Lord Jeffrey,
still hung in the Lawnmarket.
CHAPTER XXXIV.
NEW STREETS WITHIN THE AREA OF THE FLODDEN WALL.
h r d ’Cockburn Street-Lord Cockburn-The Scotsmun NewspapeFCharles Maclaren and Alexander Russel-The Queen’s Edinburgh
Rifle Brigade-St. Giles Street-Sketch of the Rise d Journalism in Edinburgh-The EdinQxrgk Courunt-The Daily Rnrieur-Jelfrey
Street-New Trinity College Church
THE principal thoroughfare, which of late years has
been run through the dense masses of the ancient
alleys we have been describing, is Lord Cockburn
Street, which was formed in 1859, and strikes
northward from the north-west corner of Hunter‘s
Square, to connect the centre of the 012 city with
-the railway terminus at Waverley Bridge ; it goes
curving down a comparatively steep series of slopes,
and is mainly edificed in the Scottish baronial
lofty tenements in many of the closes that descend
from the north side of the High Street, and was
very properly named after Lord Cockburn, one
entitled to special remembrance on many accounts,
and for the deep interest he took in all matters
connected with his birthplace. When he died,
in April, 1854, he was one of the best and kindliest
of the old school of “Parliameht House Whigs,”
and was a thorough, honest, shrewd, and benevolent
and conical turrets, high over all of which towers
. the dark and mighty mass of the Royal Exchange.
This new street expdses aromantic section of the
pate to any extent in the literary labours of his
contemporaries, has left behind him an interesting
volume of “ Memorials.” Many can yet recall his ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [High Street. style, with many ornate gables, dormer windows, %ut was a second time ...

Vol. 2  p. 282 (Rel. 1.05)

The Great Fire.] THE GREAT FIRE. 189
Assemlily Close, then occupied as a workshop by
Kirkwood, a well-known engraver. The engines
came promptly enough ; but, from some unknown
cause, an hour elapsed before they were in working
order, and by that time the terrible element had
raged with such fierceness and rapidity that, by
eleven o'clock the upper portion of this tenement,
including six storeys, forming the eastern 'division
of a uniform pile of buildings, was one mass of
roaring flames, which, as the breeze was from the
to their elevated position, or the roar of the gathering
conflagration, the shouts of the crowd, and
wailing of women and children, their cries were
unheard for a time, until it was too late. The
whole tenement was lost, together with extensive
ranges of buildings in the old Fish Market and
Assembly Closes, to -which it was the means of
communicating the flames.
While these tall and stately edifices were yielding
to destruction, the night grew calm and still, and
THE ROYAL EXCHANGE.
sooth-west, turned them, as they burst from the
gaping windows, in the direction of a house to the
eastward, the strong' gable of which saved it from
the destruction which seemed imminent.
Two tenements to the westward were less fortunate,
and as, from the narrowness of the ancient
close, it was impossible to work the engines, they
soon were involved in one frightful and appalling
blaze. Great fears mere now entertained for the
venerable Courant office; nor was it long before
the fire seized on its upper storey, at the very time
when some brave fellows got upon the roof of a
tenement to the westward, and shouted to the firemen
to give them a pipe, by which they could
piay upon the adjoining roof, But, owing either
I the sparks emitted by the flames shot upwards as if
spouted from a volcano, and descended like the
thickest drift or snow-storm, affecting the respiration
of all. A dusky, lurid red tinged the clouds,
and the glare shone on the Castle wdls, the
rocks of the Calton, the beetling crags, and all the
city spires. Scores of lofty chimneys, set on fire
by the falling sparks, added to the growing horror
of the scene ; and for a considerable time the Tron
Church was completely enveloped in this perilous
shower of embers.
About one in the morning of the 16th the alarm
of fire was given from a house directly oppoife to
the burning masses, and, though groundless, it
added to the deepening Consternation. Mean ... Great Fire.] THE GREAT FIRE. 189 Assemlily Close, then occupied as a workshop by Kirkwood, a well-known ...

Vol. 1  p. 189 (Rel. 1.02)

28 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Burghmuir.
great forest of Drumsheugh, wherein the white.
bull, the Caledonian boar, the elk and red deer
roamed, and where broken and lawless men had
their haunt in later times.
Yet some clearances of timber must have been
made there before 1482, when James Iii. mustered
on it, in July, 50,000 men under the royal standad
for an invasion of England, which brought about
the rebellious raid of Lauder. On the 6th
October, 1508, his son James IV., by a charter
Among those who then got lands here were Sir
Alexander Lauder of Blyth, Provost of the City,
and George Towers of the line of Inverleith, whose
name was long connected with the annals of the
city.
It was on this ground-the Campus Martius of
the Scottish hosts-that James IV. mustered, in the
summer of 1513, an army of IOO,OOO men, the
most formidable that ever marched against England;
and a fragment of the hare-stane, or bore-
THE LIBRARY AAI.I., EDINBURGH UNIVERSITY.
under the Great Seal, leased the Burghmuir to
the council and community of Edinburgh (City
Charters, I 143-1540) empowering them to farm and
cIear it of wood, which led to the erection within
the city of those quaint timber-fronted houses,
many of which still remain in the closes and wynds,
and even in the High Street. In 1510 we find,
from the Burgh Records, that the persons to whom
certain acres were let there, were bound to build
thereon “dwelling-houses, malt-barns, and cow-bills,
and to have servants for the making of malt betwixt
(30th April) and Michaelmas, I 5 I 2 ; and failing to
do so, to pay to the common works of the
town; and also to pay 6 5 for every acre of the
three acres set to them.”
stane, in which the royal standard was planted,
on this and many similar occasions, is still preserved,
and may be seen built into a wall, at
Banner Place, near Morningside Church. As
Drummond records, the place was then “ spacious
and made delightful by the shade of many stately
and aged oaks.”
‘‘ There were assembled,” says Pitscottie, “ all his
earls, lords, barons, and burgesses ; and all manner
of men between sixty and sixteen, spiritual and
temporal, burgh and land, islesmen and others, to
the number of a hundred thousand, not reckoning
carriagemen and artillerymen, who had charge of
fifty shot-cannons.” When some houses were
built in the adjacent School Lane in 1825, hundreds ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Burghmuir. great forest of Drumsheugh, wherein the white. bull, the Caledonian boar, ...

Vol. 5  p. 28 (Rel. 1.01)

secluded character of the place inust have been
destroyed. ‘‘ Queen Mary granted the gardens of
-the Greyfriars’ monastery to the citizens in the
year 1566, to be used as a cemetery, and from
that period the old burial-place seems to have
and are now said to be among the miscellaneous
collections at Holyrood. Begun in 1632, the hall
with its adjacent buildings took seven years to
erect; but subsequently the external portions of
the edifice were almost totally renewed. Howell,
the citizens forgot that their Exchange was built
over their fathers’ graves.” Yet within six years
after Queen Mary’s gr.ant, Knox was interred in
the old burial-ground. “Before the generation
had passed away that witnessed and joined in his
funeral service,” says the author of “ Memorials of
Edinburgh,” “the churchyard in which they laid
him had been converted into a public thoroughfare !
We fear this want of veneration must be regarded
as a national Characteristic which Knox assisted
to call into existence, and to which we owe much
of the reckless demolition of those time-honoured
monuments of the past which it is sow thought a
weakness to deplore.”
As a churchyard in name it last figures in 1596
as the scene of a tumult in which John Earl of
Mar, John Bothwell, Lord Holyroodhouse, the
Lord Lindsay, and others, met in their armour,
and occasioned some trouble ere they could be
pacified. It was the scene of all manner of rows,
when club-law prevailed ; where exasperated litigants,
sick of “the law’s delays,” ended the matter
by appeal to sword and dagger ; and craftsmen and
apprentices quarrelled with the bailies and deacons.
It has been traditionally said that many of the
tombstones were removed to the Greyfriars’ churchyard;
if such was the case no inscriptions remain
built here lately,” and regretting that Charles I. did
not inaugurate it in person, he adds that “they
did ill who advised him otherwise.” The time
had come when old Scottish raids were nearly past,
and when revolutions had their first impulse, not
in the battle-field, but in deliberative assemblies ;
thus the Parliament that transferred its meetings
from the old Tolbooth to the new House in 1639
had to vote ‘‘ the sinews of war ” for an aymy
against England, under Sir Alexander Leslie, and
was no less unprecedented in its constitution and
powers than the place in which it assembled was a
new edifice. Outside of a wooden partition in the
hall was an oak pulpit, where a sermon was preached
at the opening of parliament; and behind was a
small gallery, where the public heard the debates
of the House.
To thousands who never saw or could have
seen it the external aspect of the old Parliament
House has been rendered familiar by Gordon’s
engravings, and more particularly by the view of it
on the bank notes of Sir William Forbes and Co.
Tradition names Inigo Jones as the architect, bit
of this there is not a vestige of proof. It was
highly picturesque, and possessed an individuality
that should have preserved it from the iconoclastic
“improvers” of 1829. “There was a quaint
The Parliament Hall, which was finished in
1639, at the expense of the citizens, costing
A11,600 of the money of that time, occupies a
considerable portion of the old churchyard, and
possesses a kind of simple grandeur ‘ belonging
to an anterior age. Its noblest feature is the roof,
sixty feet in height, which rests on ornamental
brackets consisting of boldly sculptured heads,
and is formed of dark oak tie-and-hammer beams
with cross braces, producing a general effect suggestive
of the date of Westminster or of Crosby
Hall. Modern corridors that branch out from it
are in harmony with the old hall, and lead to the
various court rooms and the extensive libraries of
the Faculty of Advocates and the Society of
Writers to the Signet. The hall measures 122 feet
in length by 49 in breadth, and was hung of old
with tapestry and portraits of the kings of Scotland,
some by Sir Godfrey Kneller. These were bestowed,
in 1707, by Queen Anne, on the Earl of Mar,
’
we are told, “and the rude elaborateness of its
decorations, that seemed to link it with the courtiers
I of Holyrood in the times of the Charleses, and its
last gala days under the Duke of York‘s viceregency.
Nothing can possibly be conceived more
meaningless and utterly absurd than the thing that
superseded it ”-a square of semi-classic buildings,
supported by a narrow arcade, and surmounted by
stone sphinxes.
Above the old main entrance, which faced the
east, and is now completely blocked up and hidden,
were the royal arms of Scotland, beautifully
sculptured, supported on the right by Mercy holding
a crown wreathed with laurel, and on the
left by Justice, with a palm branch and balance,
with the inscription, Stant his feZiciin r p a , and
underneath the national arms, the motto, Uni
unionurn. Over the smaller doorway, which forms
the present access to the lofty lobby of the House,
were the arms of the city, between sculptured ... character of the place inust have been destroyed. ‘‘ Queen Mary granted the gardens of -the Greyfriars’ ...

Vol. 1  p. 158 (Rel. 0.98)

Cmongate.1 THE CANONGATE THEATRE. 23
the morning;’’ and of the sanitary state of the
community in those days some idea may be gathered
from the fact that swine ran loose in the Canongate
till 1583, when an attempt was made to put
down the nuisance. In the city this was done
earlier, as we find that in 1490 the magistrates
ordain “the lokman, quhairwer he fyndis ony
.swyne betwk the Castell and the Netherbow upon
the Gaitt,” to seize them, with a fine of fourpence
.upon each sow taken.
Again, in 1506, swine found in the streets or
kennels are to be slaughtered by the “lokman” and
escheated ; and in 15 13 swine were again forbidden
to wander, under pain of the owners being banished,
and each sow to be escheat. At the same time
fruit was forbidden to be sold on the streets, or in
crames, ‘‘ holden thairupon, under the pain oi
escheitt ”-that is, of forfeit.
In 1562 no flesh was to be eaten or even cooked
on ,Friday or Saturday, under a penalty of ten
pounds; and in 1563 all markets were forbidden
.in the streets upon Sunday.
Among the first operations of the Improvement
’Trust were the demolitions at the head of St.
Mary’s Wynd, including with them the removal 01
-the Closes of Hume and Boyd, the first alleys a1
the head of the street on the south side, and the
erection on their site of lofty and airy tenements in
A species of Scottish style.
Four,alleys to the eastward, Bell’s, Gillon’s, Gibbs’
and Pine’s Closes, all narrow, dark, and filthy,
have been without history or record j but Chessel’s
Court, numbered as 240, exhibits a very superior
style of architecture, and in 1788 was the scene 01
that daring robbery of the Excise Office which
brought to the gallows the famous Deacon Brodie
.and his assistant, thus closing a long career of
secret villainy, his ingenuity as a mechanic giving
him every facility in the pursuits to which he
addicted himself. “ It was then customary for the
shopkeepers of Edinburgh to hang their keys upon
a nail at the back of their doors, or at least to take
no pains in concealing them during the day. Brodie
used to take impressions of them in putty or clay,
a piece of which he used to carry in the palm of his
hand. He kept a blacksmith in his pay, who
forged exact copies of the keys he wanted, and
with these it was his custom to open the shops of
his fellow-tradesmen during the night.”
In a house of Chessel’s Court there died, in I 854,
an aged maiden lady of a very ancient Scottish
stock-Elizabeth Wardlaw, daughter of Sir William
Wardlaw, Bart., of the line of BalmuIe and Pitreavie
in Fifeshire.
In the Playhouse Close, a cdde-mc, and its
neighbour the Old Playhouse Close, a narrow and
gloomy alley, we find the cradle of the legitimate
drama in Edinburgh.
In the former, in 1747, a theatre was opened, on
such a scale as was deemed fitting forthe Scottish
capital, where the drama had skulked in holes
and corners since the viceregal court had departed
from Holyrood, in the days of the Duke of Albany
and York. From 1727 till after 1753 itinerant
companies, despite the anathemas of the clergy,
used with some success the Tailors’ Hall in the
Cowgate, which held, in professional phraseology,
from ;E40 to ;E45 nightly.’ In the first-named year
a Mr. Tony Alston endeavoured to start a theatre,
in the same house which saw the failure of poor
Allan Ramsay’s attempt, but the Society of High
Constables endeavoured to suppress his “ abominable
stage plays;” and when the clergy joined
issue with the Court of Session against him, his
performances had to cease. But, accqding to
Wodrow, there had been some talk of building
another theatre as early as 1728.
In 1746 the foundation of the theatre within a
back area (near St. John’s-Cross), now called the
Playhouse Close, was laid by Mr. John Ryan, a
London actor of considerable repute in his day,
who had to contend with the usual opposition of the
ignorant or illiberal, and that lack of prudence and
thrift incidental to his profession generally. The
house was capable of holding A70 ; the box seats
were halfa-crown, the pit one-and-sixpence ; and
for several years it was the‘kcene of good acting
under Lee, Digges, Mrs. Bellamy, and Mrs. Ward.
After the affair of 1745 the audiences were apt
to display a spirit of political dissension. On the
anniversary of the battle of Culloden, in I 749, some
English officers who were in the theatre commanded
the orchestra, in an insolent and unruly manner,
to strike up an obnoxious air known as CulZoden ;
but in a spirit of opposition, and to please the
people, the musicians played (‘ You’re welcome,
Charlie S h u t ” The military at once drew their
sworQs and attacked the defenceless musicians and
players, but were assailed by the audience with
tom-up benches and every missile that couid be
procured. The officers now attempted to storm
the galleries ; but the doors were secured. They
were then vigorously attacked in the rear by the
Highland chairmen with their poles, disarmed, and
most ignominiously drubbed and expelled ; but in
consequence of this and similar disturbances, bills
were put up notifying that no music would be
played but such as the management selected.
Another disturbance ensued soon after, occasioned
by the performance of Garrick’s farce, ‘‘ High
I ... THE CANONGATE THEATRE. 23 the morning;’’ and of the sanitary state of the community in those days some ...

Vol. 3  p. 23 (Rel. 0.97)

THE FREE CHURCH COLLEGE. 97 The Mound]
one persons ;61,ooo each, a sum which more than
sufficed to purchase the site of the college-the
old Guise Palace, with its adjacent closes-and to
erect the edifice, while others were built at
Glasgow and Aberdeen.
Plans by W. H. Playfair, architect, were prepared
and adopted, after a public competition had
been resorted to, and the new buildings were at
once proceeded with. The foundation stone was
iaid on the 4th of June, 1846, by Dr. Chalmers,
~ The stairs on the south side of the quadrangle
lead to the Free Assembly Hall, on the exact site
of the Guise Palace. It was erected from designs
by David Bryce, at a cost of A7,000, which was
collected by ladies alone belonging to the Free
Church throughout Scotland.
The structure was four years in completion, and
was opened on the 6th of November, 1850,under the
sanction of the Commission of the Free General
Assembly, by their moderator, Dr. N. Paterson,
LIBRARY OF THE FREE CHURCH COLLEGE. (Fwm o P/wtozm#h by G. W. Wi&on and Co.)
exactly one year previous to the day which saw his
remains consigned to the tomb. The ultimate cost
was ;646,506 8s. Iod., including the price of the
ground, Ero,ooo.
The buildings are in the English collegiate style,
combining the common Tudor with somd of the later
Gothic They form an open quadrangle (entered
by a handsome groined archway), 165 feet from
east to west and 177 from south to north, including
on the east the Free High Church. The edifice
has two square towers (having each four crocketed
pinnacles), IZI feet in height, buttressed at the
corners from base to summit. There is a third
tower, 95 feet in height. The college contains
seven great class-rooms, a senate hall, a students'
hall, and a library, the latter adorned with a
statue of Dr, Chalmers as Principal, by Steel
61
who delivered a sermon and also a special address
to the professors and students. Subsequently, this
inaugural sermon and the introductory lectures
delivered on the same occasion to their several
classes by Professors Cunningham, Buchanan,
Bannerman, Duncan, Black, Macdougal, Fraser,
and Fleming, were published in a volume, as a
record of that event.
The constitution of this college is the same as
that of the Free Church colleges elsewhere. The
Acts of Assembly provide for vesting college
property and funds, for the election of professors,
and for the general management and superintendence
of college business. The college buildings
are vested in trustees appointed by the Church.
A select committee is also appointed bp the
j General Assembly, consisting of " eleven ministers ... FREE CHURCH COLLEGE. 97 The Mound] one persons ;61,ooo each, a sum which more than sufficed to purchase the ...

Vol. 3  p. 97 (Rel. 0.97)

High Street.] BISHOP KENNEDY. 241
counsellor of James 11. and James 111. The
building indicated as having been his residence is
a large stone tenement of great antiquity on the
east side, having thereon a coat of arms and a
mitre, which were removed a few years ago ; and
our best antiquary asserts that ‘‘ the whole appearance
of the building is perfectly consistent with
the supposition” that it had been Bishop Kennedy’s
abode. “ The form and decorations of the
doorways all prove an early date ; while the large
“A large and convenient house, entering by a
close mostly paved with flagstones, on the north
side of the street near the Nether Bow, consisting
of eight rooms, painted last year, or papered, some
with Chinese paper ; a marble chimney-piece from
the ceiling in one, concaves and slabes (sic) two
other of the rooms ; the drawing-room elegantly
fitted up, painted, gilded, and carved in the newest
style, with light closets to all the bed-rooms and
other conveniences to the dining-room and parlour ;
HOUSE IN HIGH STREET WITH MEMORIAL WINDOW, I‘ HEAVE AWA, LADS, I’M NO DEID YET !”
and elegant mouldings of the windows, and the
massive appearance of the whole building, indicate
such magnificence as would well consort with the
dignity of the primacy at that early period.”
Bishop Kennedy, author of a history of his
own times, now lost, died in 1466, and was interred
at St. Andrews.
. Baron Grant’s and Bailie Grant’s Closes were
among the last alleys on this side, adjoining the
Nether Bow Port. An advertisement in the Edinburgh
Cvurani for 1761, in describing the house of
Mr. Grant (who was a Baron of the Exchequer
Court) as offered for sale, gives us a pretty accurate
idea of what a mansion in the Old Town was in
those days :-
31
wine cellar and large kitchen, a coal-fauld, fire-room
for servants, and larder; a hen-house and cribbs,
for feeding all sorts of fowls ; a house for a sedanchair;
a rack to contain 10 gross of bottles, all
built and slated; a garden extending down the
greatest part of Leith Wynd, planted with flowering
shrubs, and servitude for a separate entry to it,
passing by the gate of Lord Edgefield’s house.”
The garden referred to must have been bounded
by the massive portion of the eastern wall of the
city, which fell down about twenty years ago ; and
the Lord Edgefield, whose neighbour the Baron
had been, was Mr. Robert Pringle, who was raised
to the Bench in 1754, and, dying ten years after,
was succeeded by the well-known Lord Pitfour. ... Street.] BISHOP KENNEDY. 241 counsellor of James 11. and James 111. The building indicated as having been ...

Vol. 2  p. 241 (Rel. 0.96)

cantoned with other four in the angles. The tiar, or
bonnet, was of purple velvet; but, in 1685, it got a
.cap of crimson velvet, adorned with four plates of
gold, on each of them a great pearl, and the bonnet
-is trimmed up with ermine. Upon the lowest circle
there are eight small holes, two and two, on the
-four quarters of the crown, which mere for lacing
-or tying thereto diamonds or precious stones.
The crown is g inches in diameter, 27 inches
about, and in height from the under circle to the
top of the cross patee 6; inches.
The sceptre : its stem or stalk, which is of
silver double overgilt, is two feet long, of a hexagon
form, with three buttons or knobs; betwixt the
first button and the second is the handle of a
hexagon form, furling in the middle and plain.
Betwixt the second button and the third are three
sides engraven. From the third button to the
capital the three sides under the statues are plain,
and on the other three are antique engravings. Upon
the top of the stalk is an antique capital of leaves
embossed, the abacus whereof arises round the
prolonged stem, surrounded with three little statues;
between every two statues arises a rullion in the
form of a dolphin ; above the rullions and statues
stands another hexagon button, with oak leaves
under every corner, and down it a crystjl (beryl?)
globe. The whole sceptre is in length 34 inches.”
The statues are those of the Virgin, St. Andrew,
and St. James. The royal initials, J. R. V. are
engraved under them. If James V. had this
sceptre made, the metallic settings of the great
beryl belong to some sceptre long anterior to
his time.
The sword is in length 5 feet ; the handle and
pommel are of silver overgilt, in length 15 inches.
The pommel is round and somewhat flat on the two
sides. The traverse or cross OF the sword, which
is of silver overgilt, is in length 17h inches; its
form is like two dolphins with their heads joining
and their tails ending in acorns; the shell is
hanging down towards the point of the sword,
formed like an escalop flourished, or rather like
a green oak-leaf. On the blade of the sword
are indented with gold these letters-JuLIus 11. P.
The scabbard is of crimson velvet, covered with
silver wrought in philagram-work into branches oj
the oak-tree leaves and acorns.’’ Such are the
Scottish regalia, which, since the destruction 01
those of England by Cromwell, are the only ancien!
regal emblems in Great Britain.
The sword of state is of an earlier date than the
rod of the sceptre, being presented by the rvarlikr
Pope Julius to James IV. with a consecrated hai
in 1507. The keys of St. Peter figure promhentlj
among the filagree work. After the fall of the Castle
of Dunottar, in 1651, the belt of the sword became
an heirloom in the family of Ogilvie of Barras.
The great pearl in the apex of the crown is
alleged to be the same which in 1620 was found
in the burn of Kellie, a tributary of the Ythanz
in Aberdeenshire, and was so large and beautiful
that it was esteemed the best that had at any time
been found in Scotland.” Sir Thomas Menzies,
Provost of Aberdeen, obtaining this precious jewel,
presented it to James VI., who in requital gave
him twelve or fourteen chaldron of victuals about
Dunfermline, and the custom of certain merchant
goods during his life.” *
Before quitting the Castle of Edinburgh, it is impossible
to omit some special reference to Mons
Meg-that mighty bombard which is thirteen feet
long and two feet three and a half inches within the
bore, and which was long deemed by the Scots a
species of palladium, the most ancient cannon in
Europe, except one in Lisbon, and a year older
than those which were made for Mahomet 11.
Not a vestige of proof can be shown for the popular
error that this gun was forged at Mons, while unvarying
tradition, supported by very strong carroborative
evidence, proves that she was formed by
Scottish artisans, by order of James II., when he
besieged the rebellious Douglases in the castle
of Thrieve, in Galloway, during 1455. He posted
his artillery at the Three Thorns of the Carlinwark,
one of which is still surviving ; but their fire proving
ineffective, a smith named M‘Kim, and his sons,
offered to construct a more efficient piece of ordnance.
Towards this the inhabitants of the vicinity
contributed each a ,rrczud, or iron bar. Tradition,
which never varied, indicated the place where it was
forged, a mound near the Three Thorns, .and when
the road was formed there, that mound was discovered
to be a mass of cinders and the iron dCbris
of a great forge. To this hour the place where the
great gun was posted is named Knock-cannon. Only
fwo of Meg‘s bullets were discharged before Thrieve
surrendered, and it is remarkable that both have
been found there. “The first,” says the New
Statistical Accowif, <‘was, towards the end of thk
last century, picked out of the well and delivered to
Gordon of Greenlam. The second was discovered
in 1841, by the tenant of Thrieve, when removing
an accumulation of rubbish.” It lay in a line direct
from Knock-cannon to the breach in the wall. To
reward M‘Kim Jarnes bestowed upon him the
forfeited lands of MolIFnce. The smith is said to
have nanied the gun after his wife ; and the con- ... with other four in the angles. The tiar, or bonnet, was of purple velvet; but, in 1685, it got a .cap of ...

Vol. 1  p. 74 (Rel. 0.95)

92 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [The Mound.
design, which shall consist of two departments : the
m e appropriated to the remains of ancient sculpture,
and the other to the study of living models.
From that time matters went on peacefully and
pleasantly till 1844, when 8 dispute about entrance
to their galleries ensued with the subordinates of
the Board of Manufactures, in whose building they
were-a dispute ultimately smoothed over. In
1847 another ensued between the directors of the
Royal Institution and the Academy, which led to
some acritnonious correspondence ; but all piques
and jealousies between the Academy and the Royal
Institution were ended by the erection of the Art
Galleries, founded in 1850.
Six months before that event Sir William Allan,
the second president, died on the 2 2nd of February,
after occupying the presidential chair for thirteen
years with much ability. It is to be regretted that
no such good example of his genius as his ‘‘ Death
of Rizzio” finds a place in the Scottish National
Gallery, his principal work there being his large
unfinished picture of the ‘‘ Battle of Bannockburn,”
a patriotic labour of love, showing few of the best
qualities of his master-hand, as it was painted
literally when he was dying. “TO those who were
with Sir William in his latter days it was sadly
interesting to see him wrapped up in blankets,
cowering by his easel, with this great canvas
stretched out before him, labouring on it assiduously,
it may be truly said, till the day on which he
died,” writes a brother artist, who has since
followed him. “ The constant and only companion
uf his studio, a long-haired, glossy Skye terrier, on
his master‘s death, refused to be comforted, to eat,
.or to live.”
His successor was Sir John Watson, who added
the name of Gordon to his own. He was the son of
Captain JamesWatson, RN., who served in Admiral
Digby’s squadron during the first American war,
Among his earlier works were the “ Shipwrecked
Sailor,” “ Queen Margaret and the Robber,” “A
Boy with a Rabbit,” “The Sleeping Boy and
Watching Girl” (his own brother and sister); but it
was as a painter of portraits strictly that he made
his high reputation; though it is said that the
veteran, his father, when looking at the “ Venus and
Adonis ” of Paul Veronese, declared it “ hard as
flints,” adding, “I wouldn’t give my Johnny’s
‘ Shipwrecked Sailor’ for a shipload of such.”
In early life he lived with his father in 27 Anne
Street, which he left regularly every morning at
nine o’clock, “and walking down the beautidul
and picturesque footpath that skirted the bank
af the Water of Leith, he passed St. Bernard’s,
where almost invariably he was joined by the
portly figure of Sir Henry Raeburn. Engaged in
conversation, no doubt beneficial to the younger
but rising artist, they proceeded to Edinburgh-
Raeburn to his gallery and painting-room, No. 32
York Place, and John Watson to his apartments
in the first flat of No. 19 South St. David Street,
or, latterly, 24 South Frederick Street.’’
During his presidency the Art Galleries were
completed and opened. By the Act 13 and 14
Vict., cap. 86, the entire building and property were
vested in the Board of Manufactures, as well as the
appropriation of the buildings when completed,
subject to the approbation of the Treasury, without
the sanction of which no fee for admittance
was to be charged on any occasion, except to the
annual exhibition of the Royal Scottish Academy.
“The general custody and maintenance of the
whole building shall be vested in the Board of
Manufactures,’’ says the Government minute of
28th February, 1858 ; “but the Royal Scottish
Academy shall have the entire charge of the councilroom
and library and of the exhibition galleries
during their annual exhibitions.”
After continuing in the exercise of his profession
until within a few weeks of his death, Sir John
Watson died at his house in George Street, 1st
June, 1864, in his seventy-sixth year, having been
born in 1788.
He was succeeded as president and trustee by
Sir George Harvey, born in Stirlingshire in 1805,
and well known as a painter successfully of historical
subjects and fabZeaux de genre, many of them
connected with the stirring events of the Covenant
He became a Scottish Academician in 1829, since
when his popularity spread far and wide by the
dissemination of numerous engravings from his
works. He was president only twelve years, and
died at Edinburgh on the zznd of January, 1876, in
his seventy-first year.
He was succeeded by Sir Daniel Macnee, R.S.A.,
who was also born in Stirlingshire in 1806, and
began early to study at the Trustees’ Academy with
Duncan, Lauder, Scott, and other artists of native
repute. He rapidly became a favourite portrait
painter in both countries, and his famous portrait
of the Rev. Dr. Wardlaw won a gold medal at the
Paris International Exhibition of 1855. He has
painted many of the most prominent men of the
time, among them Lord Brougham for the College
of Justice at Edinburgh.
In connection with Scottish art we may here
refer to the Spalding Fund, of which the directors
of the Royal Institution were constituted trustees
by the will of Peter Spalding, who died in 1826,
leaving property, “ the interest or annual proceeds ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [The Mound. design, which shall consist of two departments : the m e appropriated to ...

Vol. 3  p. 92 (Rel. 0.95)

222 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [High Street
On becoming provost, he was easily led by his
religious persuasion to become a sort of voluntary
exchequer for the friends of the National Covenant,
and in 1641 he advanced to them IOO,OOO merks
to save them from the necessity of disbanding their
army; and when the Scottish Parliament in the
same year levied 10,000 men for the protection of
their colony in Ulster, they could not have embarked
had they not been provisioned at the expense
of Sir William Dick. Scott, in the “ Heart
of Midlothian,” alludes to the loans of the Scottish
Crcesus thus, when he makes Davie Deans say,
“My father saw them toom the sacks of dollars
out 0’ Provost Dick‘s window intil the carts that
carried them to the army at Dunse Law; and if
ye winna believe his testimony, there is the window
itself still standing in the Luckenbooths, five doors
aboon the Advocates’ Close-I think it is a claithmerchant’s
the day.”
And singular to say, a cloth merchant’s “booth ”
it continued long to be. ‘
In 1642 the Customs were let to Sir William
Dick for zoz,ooo merks, and 5,000 merks of
gassum, or “ entrense siller;” but, as he had a
horror of Cromwell and the Independents, he advanced
~20,000 for the service of King Charlesa
step by which he kindled the wrath of the prevailing
party; and, after squandering his treasure
in a failing cause, he was so heavily.mulcted by
extortion of L65,ooo and other merciless penalties,
that his vast fortune passed speedily away, and he
died in 1655, a prisoner of Cromwell’s, in a gaol at
Westminster, under something painfully like a want
of the common necessaries of life.
He and Sir William Gray were the first men of
Edinburgh who really won the position of merchant
princes. The changeful fortunes of the former are
commemorated in a scarce folio pamphlet, entitled
“The Lamentable State of the Deceased Sir William
Dick,” and containing .several engravings.
One represents him on horseback, escorted by halberdiers,
as Lord Provost of Edinburgh, and superintending
the unloading of a great vessel at Leith ;
a second represents him in the hands of bailiffs;
and a third lying dead in prison. “The tract is
highly esteemed by collectors of prints,” says Sir
Walter Scott, in a note to the “Heart of Midlothian.”
“The only copy I ever saw upon sale
was rated at L30.”
Sir James Stewart of Goodtrees (a place now
called Moredun, in the parish of Liberton) who
was Lord Advocate of Scotland from 1692 until
his death in 1713, a few months only excepted,
gave a name to the next narrow and gloomy
alley, Advocates’ Close, which bounded on the
east the venerable mansion of the Lords Holyroodhouse.
His father was provost of the city when Cromwell
paid his first peaceful visit thereto in 1648-9,
and again in 1658-9, at the close of the Protectorate,
The house in which he lived and died
was at the foot of the close, on the west side,
before descending a flight of steps that served te ;
lessen the abruptness of the descent. He had
returned from exile on the landing of the Prince of ,
Orange, and, as an active revolutionist, was detested
by the Jacobites, who ridiculed him as /amc
Wyhe in many a bitter pasquil. He died in 1713,
and Wodrow records that “ so great was the crowd
(at his funeral) that the magistrates were at the
grave in the Greyfriars’ Churchyard before the
corpse was taken out of the house at the foot of
the Advocates’ Close.”
In 1769 his grandson sold the house to David
Dalrymple, afterwards Lord Westhall, who resided
in it till nearly the time of his death in 1784.
This close was a very fashionable one in the days
of Queen Anne, and was ever a favourite locality
with members of the bar. Among many others,
there resided Andrew Crosbie, the famous original
of Scott’s “Counsellor Pleydell,” an old lawyer
who was one of the few that was able to stand his.
ground in any argument or war of words with Dr.
Johnson during that visit when he made himself
so obnoxious in Edinburgh. From this dark and
steep alley, with its picturesque overhanging
gables and timber projections, Mr. Crosbie afterwards
removed to a handsome house erected by
him in St. Andrew’s Square, ornamented with lofty,
half-sunk Ionic columns and a most ornate attic
storey (on the north side of the present Royal
Bank), afterwards a fashionable hotel, long known
as Douglas’s and then as Slaney’s, where even
royalty has more than once found quarters. By
the failure of the Ayr Bank he was compelled to
leave his new habitation, and’died in 1784 in such
poverty that his widow owed her whole support to
a pension of A50 granted to her by the Faculty of
Advocates.
The house lowest down the close, and immediately
opposite that of Sir James Stewart of
Goodtrees, was the residence of an artist of some
note in his time, John Scougal, who painted the
well-known portrait of George Heriot, which hangs
in the council room of the hospital. He was a
cousin of that eminent divine Patrick Scougal,
parson of Saltoun in East Lothian and Bishop of
Aberdeen in 1664.
John Scougall added an upper storey to the old
land in the Advocates’ Close, and fitted up one of ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [High Street On becoming provost, he was easily led by his religious persuasion to ...

Vol. 2  p. 222 (Rel. 0.94)

I 26 ’ OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [PrinerSSma.
The tower, as originally designed, terminated in
an open lantern, but this fell during a tempest of
wind in January, 1818. In a letter to his friend,
Willie Laidlaw, Sir Walter Scott refers to the event
thus :-“I had more than an anxious thought
about you all during the gale of wind. The Gothic
pinnacles were blown from the top of Bishop
Sandford‘s Episcopal chapel at the end of Princes
Street, and broke through the roof and flooring,
doing great damage. This was sticking the horns
of the mitre into the belly of the church. The
devil never so well deserved the title of Prince of
Power of the Air since he has blown down this
handsome church, and left the ugly mass of new
buildings standing on the North Bridge.”
The bishop referred to was the Rev. Daniel Sand-
‘ ford, father of the accomplished Greek scholar, Sir
Daniel Keyte Sandford, D.C.L., who was born at
Edinburgh in February, 1798, and received all the
rudiments of his education under the venerable
prelate, who died in 1830.
The interior of St. John’s Church is beautiful,
and presents an imposing appearance ; it contains
a very fine organ, and is adorned with richlycoloured
stained-glass windows. The great eastern
window, which is thirty feet in height, contains the
figures of the twelve apostles, by Eggington of
Birmingham, acquired in 1871. There is also
a magnificent reredos, designed by Peddie and
Kinnear.
In this church ministered for years the late Dean
Ramsay, the genial-hearted author of “ Reminiscences
of Scottish Life and Character.” A small
cemetery, with two rows of ornamented burial
vaults, adjoin the south side of this edifice, the
view of which is very striking from the West
Churchyard. In these vaults and the little
cemetery repose the remains of many persons
eminent for rank and talent. Among them are
the prince of Scottish portrait painters, Sir Henry
Raeburn, the Rev. Archibald Alison, the wellknown
essayist on ‘‘ Taste,” Dr. Pultney Alison, his
eldest son, and brother of the historian, Sir Archibald.
The Doctor was professor successively of
the theory and practice of physic in the university,
author of several works of great authority in
medical science, and was one of the most philanthropic
men that ever adorned the medica! profession,
even in Edinburgh, where it has ever been
pre-eminently noble in all works of charity ; and he
was the able antagonist of Dr. Chalmers in advocating
the enforcement of a compulsory assessment
for the support of the poor in opposition to the
Doctor’s voluntary one.
There, too, lie James DonaldsoIi, founder of the
magnificent hospital which bears his name j the
Rev. Andrew Thomson, first minister of St. Geoge’s
Church in Charlotte Square, in his day one of the
most popular of the city clergy; Sir Williani
Hamilton, professor of moral philosophy in the
university, and a philosopher of more than
European name ; Catherine Sinclair, the novelist j
Macvey Napier, who succeeded Lord Jeffrey as
editor of the Zdiaburgh Rm2wY and, together
with James Browne, LL.D., conducted the seventh
edition of the ‘‘ Encyclopaedia Britannica”; Sir
William Arbuthnot, who was Lord Provost in
1823; Mrs. Sligo of Inzievar, the sister of Sir
James Outram, “ the Bayard of India”; and many
more of note.
Nearly opposite is a meagre and somewhat
obstn,uztive edifice of triangular form, known as
the Sinclair Fountain, erected in 1859 at the
expense of Miss Catherine Sinclair, the novelist,
and daughter of the famous Sir John Sinclair of
Ulbster, a lady distinguished for her philanthropy,
and is one of the memorials’of her benefactions
to the city.
Among the many interesting features in Princes
Street are its monuments, and taken seriatim,
according to their dates, the first-and first also is
consequence and magnificence-is that of Sir Walter
Scott This edifice, the design for which, by G.
M. Kemp (who lost his life in the canal by
drowning ere its completion), was decided by the
committee on the 30th of April, 1840, bears a
general resemblance to the most splendid examples
of monumental crosses, though it far excels all its
predecessors in its beauty and vast proportions,
beirig 180 feet in height, and occupying a square
area of 55 feet at its base.
The foundation stone was laid in 1840, and in it
was deposited a plate, bearing the following
inscription by Lord Jeffrey, remarkable for its
tenor :-
“This Graven Plate, deposited in the baseof a votive
building on the fifteenth day of August, in the year of
Christ 1840, and mcr bRry io see tk I&& apin td2 aZ2 tlu
surrounding strucfwu have crumbZrd fo dwt the d.ay 01
time, w by human OY ekmmzal vibZence, may then testify to a
distant posterity that his countrymen began on that day to
raise an effigy and architectural mohnent, TO THE MEMORY
OF SIR WALTER SCOTT, BART., whose admirable writings
were then allowed to have given more delight and suggested
better feeling to a larger class of readers in every rank of
society, than those of any other author, with the exception of
Shakespeare alone, and which were therefore thought likely
to be remembered long after this act of gratitude on the part
of the first generation of his admirers should be forgotten.
‘‘ HE WAS BORN AT EDINBURGH, I5TH AUGUST, 1771,
AND DIED AT ABBOTSFORD, ZIST SEPTEMBER, 1832,”
Engravings have made us familiar with the ... 26 ’ OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [PrinerSSma. The tower, as originally designed, terminated in an open lantern, but ...

Vol. 3  p. 126 (Rel. 0.88)

264 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [High Street.
before them with licht torches,” on which Powrie,
as if consciencestricken, exclaimed to Wilson,
“ Jesu ! Pate ! What na gate is this we are ganging
?
About 1780-9 the cardinal’s house was the
residence of Bishop Abernethy Drummond, whom
we have ,noticed as the theological opponent of
Bishop Hay, and hither he must have brought his
I trow it be not gude.”
wife, -the -heiress of
Hawthornden. This
divine occupied a high
place in the society of
his time, and was particularly
active in obtaining
the repeal of
the penal statbtes
against his church in
Scotland. Latterly the
house was divided, like
all its neighbours, into
a multitude of small
lodgings, where squalid
poor folks-chiefly Irish
-pined on parochial
allowance, and slept on
beds of straw mingled
with rags-“the terrible
exponent of our peculiar
phasis of civilisation.”
But very different was
the aspect of society
at the time when the
Edinburgh Gazette of
19th April, 1703, put
forth the following advertisement
:-
“There is a boarding-
school to be set up
in Blackfriars Wynd, in
/------
the 1st of August, 1877, the total expenditure was
A442,621 18s. 6d. ; receipts, A265,599 18s. gd. j
the unrecovered outlay, A177,ozz os. gd. ; and
the amount to the credit of the sinking fund account,
g6,752 14s. Iod.
Blackfriars Wynd was among the places “ improved;”
the east side was swept away and replaced
by buildings in the old Scottish style, one
CARDINAL BEATON’S nousE.
Robinson’s Land, upon the west side of the Wynd,
near the middle thereof, in the first door of the
stair leading to the said land, against the latter end
of May, or first of June next, when young ladies
and gentlemen may have all sorts of breeding that
is to be had in any part of Britain, and great care
taken of their conversation.”
Nearly all that we have described here has
been swept away by the trustees of the Edinburgh
Improvement Act, and the ancient Wynd is now
designated Blackfriars Street. By that Act, passed
in 1867, a tax was imposed, not exceeding fourpence
:n the pound, for a period of twenty years, and the
trustees were authorised to borrow, on the security
of that assessment, a total sum of g;35o,ooo. At
of which is the Ediuburgh
Industrial School,
instituted in July, 1847;
but, by a somewhat
shartsighted policy perhaps,
the west was left
untouched,andthe footway
there was found to
be so far below the
level of the street as
to necessitate its being
fenced off from
the camage-way by an
open railing, thus imparting
an incomplete
aspect to the thoroughfare.
Between these
old houses on the west
an extensive area was
thrown open betwyeen
Cant’s and Dickson’s
Closes, thus greatly enhancing
the value of
the sites, but at the
sacrifice of much that
belonged to the past
and the picturesque.
The United Industrial
School in Blackfriars
Street exhibits in
a manner perhaps unexampled,
the successful
application and development of that great
problem, a comprehensive unsectarian system of
national education. To those to whom its name
may be scarcely known it must appear that there
is surely something striking in the character of a
ragged school among whose founders were such
men as the Earls of Minto and Elgin, Lords
Dunfermline, Murray, and Jeffrey, Sir William G.
Craig, Adam Black, and William Chambers.
In 1847 Dr. Guthrie first drew attention to the
condition of the juvenile beggars of Edinburgh,
and his noble proposal to establish a ragged school
to be supported by “ Christians of all denominations
and parties,” was eagerly taken up. The lines
upon which the suggestion was practically carried ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [High Street. before them with licht torches,” on which Powrie, as if ...

Vol. 2  p. 264 (Rel. 0.79)

The edifice that forms the west side of Mylne’s
Court belongs to an earlier period, and had once
been the side of the close. The most northerly
portion, which presents a very irregular but most
picturesque fapade, with dormer windows above
the line of the roof, was long the town mansion
of the Lairds of Comiston. Over the entrance is
a very common Edinburgh legend, BZissif. be . God
in. al. his. Gz&%s, and the date, 1580. Bartholomew
Somerville, a merchant and burgess, was one of
the earliest inhabitants of this edifice, and his
name appears conspicuously
among
those to whose liberality
Edinburgh was
indebted for the establishment
of her
University on a last‘’
ing basis. Here also
resided Sir John Harper
of Cambusnethitn.
. In 1710, Lord
Fountainhall reports
a case connected
with this court, in
which Bailie Michael
Allan, a proprietor
there, endeavoured to
prevent the entrance
of ‘ I heavy carriages,”
which damaged his
cellar under the pend
thereto.
The last person of
rank resident here
was Lady Isabella
Douglas, who had a
house on the west
side of it in 1761.
Robert, the son of
still more illustrious Dr. Johnson, when, in 1773,
he was on his way to the Western Isles.
James’s Court occupies the site of some now
forgotten closes, in one of which dwelt Sir John
Lauder, afterwards Lord Fountainhall, author of the
famous “Decisions” and other works. ‘ At the
+d of the Earl of Argyle, in 1681, for an alleged
illegal construction of the Test, Lauder acted as
counsel for that unfortunate nobleman, together
with Sir George Lockhart and six other advocates.
These having all signed an opinion that his explanrt.
THE ORATORY OF MARY OF GUISE.
Mylne, the builder, who was born in 1734, settled
in London as an architect, and his plan for constructing
a bridge at Blackfriars was preferred to
those of twenty other candidates,* and on its completion
he was appointed surveyor of St Paul’s
Cathedral, with a salary of A300 per annum.
Eastward of Mylne’s Court is James’s Court,
a more modern erection of the same kind,
associated, in various ways, with some of the most
eminent men in the Scottish capital ; ,for here
resided David Hume, after his removal from Jack’s
Land in the Canongate, in 1762; in the same
house afterwards dwelt Boswell, and here he welcomed
Paoli, the Corsican chief, in 1771, and the
- -_ * “Old and New London,” vol. i, pp. 205-5
13
tion of the Test contained
nothing treasonable,
were summoned
before the
Privy Council, and
after being examined
on oath, were dismissed
with a warning
and censure by
the Duke of Albany.
Though it is so long
ago as September,
1722, since Lord
Fountainhall died, a
tradition of his residence
hascome down
to the present time.
“The mother of the
lateMr. Gilbert Innes
of Stow,” says Chambers,
“was a daughter
of his lordship’s son,
Sir Andrew Lauder,
and she used to describe
to her children
the visits she used
to pay to her venerable
grandfather‘s -
house, situated, as
she said, where James’s Coui-t now stands. She
and her sister always went with their maid on the
Saturday afternoons, and were shown into a room
where the aged judge was sitting- room covered
with gilt leather, and containing many huge presses
and cabinets, one of which was ornamented with a
death’s head at the top, After amusing themselves
for an hour or two with his lordship they used each
to get a shilling from him, and retire. . . . It
is curious to think that the mother of a gentleman
living in 1839 (for only then did Mrs. Innes of
Stow leave this earthly scene) should have been
familiar with a lawyer who entered at the bar soon
after the Restoration (1668)’ and acted as counsel
for the unfortunate Earl of Argyle in 1681-a being ... edifice that forms the west side of Mylne’s Court belongs to an earlier period, and had once been the side of ...

Vol. 1  p. 97 (Rel. 0.78)

234 .OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Leith
But this ancient alley is the earliest thoroughhre
in the seaport of which we have an authentic
account, as towards the close of the fourteenth
century it was granted, in a charter already quoted,
by Logan of Restalng, the baronial over-lord of
Leith, before it attained the dignity of a burgh,
. to the burgesses of Edinburgh (hence its name) ;
and at the time of its formation the whole imports
and exports of the Leith shipping must have been
conveyed to and fro on pack-horses or in wheelbarrows,
as no larger means of conveyance could
pas? through the Burgess Close.
Its inconvenience appears to have been soon
felt, and the Baron of Restalrig was compelled,
under pressure, to grant his vassals a more commodious
access to the shore. “The inscription
which now graces this venerable thoroughfare,”
says Wilson in 1847, “though of a date much
later than its first construction, preserves a memorial
of its gift to the civic council of Edinburgh,
as we may reasonably ascribe the veneration of
some wealthy merchant of the capital inscribing
over the doorway of his mansion at Leith the very
appropriate motto of the city arms. To this, the
oldest quarter of the town, indeed, we must direct
those who go in search of the picturesque.”
The Humane Society of Leith, which was first
instituted in 1788 for the recovery of persons
apparently drowned or suffocated, had its rooms
first in the Burgess Close and Bernard Street.
Water’s Close, which adjoins, has several attractive
features in a picturesque sense, and repulsive ones
in its modern squalor. Tenements of stone and
timber, and of great antiquity, are mingled together
in singular disorder ; and one venerable tenement
of hewn ashlar exhibits a broad projecting turnpike,
with various corbellings, a half-circular turret,
crowstepped gables, and massive chimneys, with
“ every variety of convenient aberration from the
perpendicular or horizontal which the taste or
whim of its constructor could devise, and is one
of the most singular edifices that the artist could
select as a subject for his pencil.”
Five low and square-headed doorways of great
breadth show that the whole of the lower storey
had been constructed as a warehouse.
This edifice, with its vaults, is advertised as for
sale in The Edinburgh Advertiser of 1789, and is
described as being in “Willie Water’s Close, Leith.”
Its vaults are stated to be of stone, and “ the whole
length and breadth of the subject completely
catacombed.”
CHAPTER XXVI.
LEITH-ROTTEN ROW, BROAD WYND, BERNARD STREET, BALTIC STREET, AND
QUALITY STREET.
The Improvement Scheme-Water Lane, or Rotten Row-House of the Queen Regent-Old Sugar House Company-The Broad Wynd-The.
King’s Wark-Its History-The Tennis Court-Bernard Lindsay-Little London-Bernard Street-Old Glass House-How of John
Home-Home and MR. Siddons-Professor Jamieson.
MUCH of what we have been describing in Leith
will ere long be swept away, for after some years
of negotiation, the great “ Leith Improvement
Scheme” has been definitely arranged, and the
loan necessary to carry it out has been granted.
Early in 1877 the Provost drew attention to the
insanitary condition of certain portions of the burgh,
more especially the crowded and central area lying
between St. Giles’s Street and the Coal Hill. In the
area mentioned the death rate amounted to twentysix
per thousand., or five per cent above that of
any other part of Leith, while the infantile mortality
reached the alarming rate of fifty-six per
thousand.
It had been found that the power conferred on
the local authority of levying an improvement rate
under the Police Act, was quite inadequate for the
purpose of improving an area so extensive; thus
attention was drawh to- the Artisans’ Dwelling
House Act, as a measure which might satisfy the
requirements of the seaport, and two schemes, one
of which included a large district, were condemned
by the ratepayers as expensive and unsuitable.
The Town Council then ordered the preparation
of a plan likely to secure the objects in view, at a
cost which would not prove oppressive to the
inhabitants, and this scheme was ultimatelyapproved
cf by the Home Secretary. Its main feature will
be the ultimate opening up of a street fifty feet
wide, from Great Junction Street to the Tolbooth
Wynd, by the way of Yardheads, St Giles’s and St.
Andrew’sStreets, andin the course ofits construdtion,
three-quarters of a mile in length, no fewer than
eighteen ancient closes will be removed, while the
streets that run parallel ’ to Yardheads will be
widened and improved. ... .OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Leith But this ancient alley is the earliest thoroughhre in the seaport of which we ...

Vol. 6  p. 234 (Rel. 0.67)

THE BANK OF SCOTLAND. 93 The Mound. J
whereof are to be applied for ever for the support of
decayed and superannuated artists.” This property
consisted mainly of ancient houses, situated in the
old town, the free proceeds ofwhich were only~220.
It was sold, and the whole value of it, amounting
to Lt;5,420 IOS., invested in Bank of Scotland and
Eritish Linen Company Stock, and has been s6
carefully husbanded that the directors now possess
stock to the value of more than A6,618. “It was
originally given in annuities varying from A;5o to
LIOO a year; but the directors some years ago
thought it advisable to restrict the amount of these,
so as to extend the benefit of the fund over a
larger number of annuitants, and they now do
not give annuities to a Iarger amount than if35,
and they require that the applications for these
shall in all cases be accompanied by a recommendation
from two members of the Royal Scottish
Academy who know the circumstances of the
applicant”
CHAPTER XIV.
THE HEAD OF THE EARTHEN MOUND.
The Bank of Scotland-Its Charter-Rivalry of the Royal Bank Notes for 65 and for 5s.-The New Bank of Scotland-Its Present Aspect-
The Projects of Mr. Trotter and Sir Thomas Dick Lauder-The National Security Savings Bank of Edinburgh-The Free Church
College and Assembly Hall-Their Foundation-Constitution-Library-Museum-Bu~~-Missiona~ and Theological Societies-The
Dining Hall, &.-The West Princes Street Gardens-The Proposed Canal and Seaport-The East Princes Street Gardens--Railway
TerminusWaverley Bridge and Market.
“HOW well the ridge of the old town was set off
by a bank of elms that ran along the front of
Tames’s Court, and stretched eastward over the
ground now partly occupied by the Bank of Scot-
Idnd,” says Cockburn, in his “Memorials;” but
looking at the locdity now, it is difficult to realise
the idea that such a thing had been; yet Edgar
shows us a pathway running along the slope, between
the foot of the closes and a row of gardens
that bordered the loch.
Bank Street, which was formed in- 1798 a few
yards westward of Dunbar‘s Close, occasioning in
its formation the destruction of some buildings of
great antiquity, looks at first sight like a broad
czdde-m blocked up by the front of the Bank of
Scotland, but in reality forms the carriage- way
downward from the head of the Mound to Princes
Street.
While as yet the bank was in the old narrow
alley that so long bore its name, we read in the
2Tddnburgh HeraZd ann! ChronicZe of March, 1800,
‘(that the directors of the Bank of Scotland have
purchased from the city an area at the south end
of the Earthen Mound, on which they intend to
erect an elegant building, with commodious apartments
for carrying on their business.”
Elsewhere we have briefly referred to the early
progress of this bank, the oldest of the then old
“chartered banks” which was projected by John
Holland, a retired London merchant, according to
the scheme devised by William Paterson, a native
of Dumfries, who founded the Bank of England.
The Act of the Scottish Parliament for starting
the Bank of Scotland, July, 1695, recites, by way of
exordium, that ‘‘ our sovereign lord, considering
how useful a public bank may be in this kingdom,
according to the custom of other kingdoms and
states, and that the same can only be best set up
and managed by persons in company with a
joint stock, sufficiently endowed with those powers,
authorities, and liberties necessary and usual in
such cases, hath therefore allowed, with the advice
and consent of the Estates of Parliament, a joint
stock of LI,ZOO,OOO money (Scots) to be raised
by the company hereby established for the carrying
on and managing a public bank.”
After an enumeration of the names of those who
were chosen to form the nucleus of the company,
including those of five Edinburgh merchants, the
charter proceeds to state that they have full powers
to receive in a book the subscriptions of either
native Scots or foreigners, “ who shall be willing to
subscribe and pay into the said joint stock, which
subscriptions the aforesaid persons, or their
quorum, are hereby authorised to receive in the
foresaid book, which shall lie open every Tuesday
or Friday, from nine to twelve in the forenoon, and
from three to six in the afternoon, between the
first day of November next and the first day of
January next following, in the public hall or
chamber appointed in the city of Edinburgh ; and
therein all persons shall have liberty to subscribe
for such sums of money as they shall think fit to
adventure in the said joint stock, AI,OOO Scots
being lowest sun1 and ~ 2 0 , 0 0 0 Scots the highest,
and the two-third parts of the said stocks belonging
always to persons residing in Scotland. Likewise,
each and every person, at the time of his subscribing,
shall pay into the hands of the forenamed
persons, or any three of them, ten of the hundred ... BANK OF SCOTLAND. 93 The Mound. J whereof are to be applied for ever for the support of decayed and ...

Vol. 3  p. 93 (Rel. 0.66)

Leith] ST. NINIAN’S CHAPEL 251
the eighty-seventh year of his age, and was able
to transact business until a very short time before
his death. He was succeeded in the baronetcy
by his eldest son, Sir Thomas Gladstone, of Fasque
and Balfour, M.P. for Queenborough and other
places successively in England.
Gladstone Place, near the Links, has been
so named in honour of this family.
From the top of the Sheriff Brae and Mill Lane,
Great Junction Street, a broad and spacious
thoroughfare, extends eastward for the distance of
two thousand feet to the foot of Leith Walk.
Here, on the south side, are the United Presbyterian
church, the neat Methodist chapel, and a
large and handsome edifice erected in 1839 as a
school, and liberally endowed by Dr. Bell, founder
of the Madras system of education, at a cost of
f;IO,OOO.
C H A P T E R X X V I I I ,
NORTH LEITH.
The Chapel and Church of St. NiniaPParish Created-Its Records-Rev. George Wishart-Rev. John Knox-Rev. Dr. Johnston-The Burial-
Ground-New North Leith ChurchlFree Church-Old Grammar SchoolXobourg Street-St. Nicholas Church-The Citadel-Its
Remains-Houses within k--Beach and Sands of North Leith-New Custom How-Shipping Inwards and Outwards.
ON crossing the river we find ourselves in North
Leith, which is thus described by Kincaid in
‘787 :-
“ With regard to North Leith, very little alteration
has taken place here for a century past. It consists
of one street running north-east from the bridge,
six hundred feet long, and about forty in breadth
where broadest. On each side are many narrow
lanesand closes, those on the south side leading
down to the carpenters’ yards by the side of the
river, and those on the north to the gardens belonging
to the inhabitants. From the bridge a
road leads to the citadel, in length 520 feet ; then
IOO feet west, and we enter the remains of the old
fortification, on the top of which a dwelling-house
is now erected. The buiIdings in this place are in
general very mean in their appearance, and inhabited
by peopIe who let rooms during the summer
season to persons who bathe in the salt water.”
One of the leading features of North Leith, when
viewed from any point of view, is the quaint spire
of its.old church, on the west bank of the river,
near the end of the upper drawbridge, abandoned
now to secular purposes, separated from its ancient
burying-ground (which still remains, With its many
tombstones, half sunk amid the long rank grass
of ages), and lifting its withered and storm-worn
outline, as if in deprecation of the squalor by which
it is surrounded, and the neglect and contumely
heaped on its venerable history.
North Leith, which contains the first, or original
docks, and anciently comprehended the citadel
and the chief seat of traffic, was long a congeries
of low, quaint-looking old houses, huddled
into groups or irregular lines, and straddling their
way amid nuisances in back and front, very much
the style of a Spanish or Portuguese town of the
present day; but since 1818 it has undergone great
and renovating changes, and, besides being disenambered
of the citadel and masses of crumbling
houses, it has some streets that may vie with the
second or third thoroughfares of Edinburgh.
As stated in our general history of Leith, Robert
Ballantyne, Abbot of Holyrood, towards the close
of the fifteenth century, built a handsome bridge
of three stone arches over the Water of Leith, to
connect the southern with the northern quarter of
the rising seaport, and so011 after its completion he
erected and endowed near its northern end a chapel,
dedicated to the honour of God, the Virgin Mary,
and St. Ninian, the apostle of Galloway, Having
considerable possessions in Leith, €he abbot a p
pointed two. chaplains to officiate in this chapel,
who were ta receive all the profits accruing from a
house which he had built at the southern end of
this bridge, with A4 yearly out of other tenements
he possessed in South Leith.
In addition to the offerings made in the chapel,
the tolls or duties accruing from this new bridge
were to be employed in its repair and that of the
chapel, but all surplus the charitable abbot ordained
was to be given to the poor; and this charter of
foundation was confirmed by James IV., of gallant
memory, on the 1st of January, 1493. (Maitland.)
This chapel was built with the full consent of
the Chapter of Holyrood, and with the approbation
of William, Archbishop of St Andrews ; and-as a.
dependency of the church of the Holy Crossthe
land whereon it stood is termed the Rudest&
in a charter of Queen Mary, dated 1569. ... ST. NINIAN’S CHAPEL 251 the eighty-seventh year of his age, and was able to transact business until a very ...

Vol. 6  p. 251 (Rel. 0.65)

94 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [The Mourd
of the sums set down in their respective subscriptions
towards carrying on the bank, and all and
every the persons subscribing and paying to. the
said stock as aforesaid shall be, and hereby are
declared to be, one body corporate and politic,
by the name and company of THE BANK OF
SCOTLAND,” etc.
The charter, while detailing minutely all that
the bank may do in the way of lending money and
giving laws for its internal government, fails to
define in any way the liability of the shareholders
to each other or to the public. For the space of
twenty-one years it was to be free from all public
burdens, and during that time all other persons in
the realm of Scotland are prohibited from setting
up any rival company.
To preclude the breaking of the bank contrary
to the object in view, it is declared that the sums
of the present subscriptions and shares may only
be conveyed and transmitted by the owners to
others who shall become partners in their place,
or by adjudication or other legal means. It is
also provided by the charter that aH foreigners on
acquiring the bank stock must become “ naturalised
Scotsmen, to all intents and! purposes whatsoever,”
a privilege that became abused, and was abolished
in 1822. The charter further ordains that no
member of the said company shall, upon any
“ pretence whatever, directly or indirectly, use,
exercise, or follow any other traffic or trade with
the said joint stock to be employed in the said
bank, or any part thereof, or profits arising therefrom,
excepting the trade of lending 2nd borrowing money
upon interest, and negotiating bills of exchange,
allenarly [i.e., these things only], and no other.”
By various subsequent statutes the capital of
this bank was increased till it stood nominally at
~1,500,000, a third of which has not been called ;
and by the Act 36 and 37 Victoria, cap. gg, further
powers to raise capital were granted, without the
Act being taken advantage of. The additional
amount authorised is ~3,000,000, which would
give a total capital of A~,~OO,OOO sterling.
The monopoly conferred on the bank by the
Parliament of Scotland was not renewed at the
expiry of the first twenty-one years; and on its
being found that banking business was on the
increase, another establishment, the Royal Bank
of Scotland, was chartered in 1727, and immediately
became the rival of its predecessor.
“It purchased up,” says Amot, “all the notes of
the Bank of Scotland that they (the directors)
could lay hands on, and caused such a run upon
this bank as reduced them to considerable difficulties.
To avoid such distresses for the future,
the Bank of Scotland, on the 29th of November,
1730, began to issue 6 5 notes, payable on demand,
or 65 2s. 6d. six months after their being presented
for payment, in the option of the bank.
On the 12th of December, 1732, they began to
issue AI notes with a similar clause.”
The other banking companies in Scotland found
it convenient to follow the example, and universally
framed their notes with these optional clauses.
They were issued for the most petty sums, and
were currently accepted in payment, insomuch
that notes for five shillings were perfectly common,
and silver was, in a manner, banished from
Scotland. To remedy these banking abuses, an
Act of the British Parliament was passed in 1765,
prohibiting all promissory notes payable to the
bearer under 61 sterling, and also prohibiting and!
declaring void all the optional clauses.
In the year 1774, when the Bank of Scotlan&
obtained an Act to enlarge their capital to
~2,400,000 Scots, or ;~ZOO,OOO sterling, a clause
provided that no individual should possess in
whole, or more than, ~ 4 0 , 0 0 0 in stock, and the
qualification for the offices of governor and directors
was doubled.
The present offices of the Bank of Scotland
were completed from the original design in 1806
by Mr. Richard Cnchton, and the institution was
moved thither in that year from the old, narrow,
and gloomy close where it had transacted business
for one hundred and eleven years.
In digging the foundation of this edifice, the
same obstacle came in the way that eventually
occasioned the fall of the North Bridge. After
excavating to a great depth, no proper foundation
could be found-all being travelled earth. The
quantity of this carted away was such that the
foundations of some of the houses in the nearest
closes were shaken and their walls rent, so that
the occupants had to remove. A solid foundation
was at last found, and the vast structure was reared
at the cost of L75,ooo. T h e quantity of stone and
mortar which IS buried below the present surface is
immense, and perhaps as much of the building is below
the ground as above it,” says Stark in 1820.
“The dead wall on the north of the edifice, where the
declivity is greatest, is covered by a stone curtain,.
ornamented with a balustrade. The south front is.
elegant. A small dome rises from the centre,
and in the front are four projections. A range
of Connthian pilasters decorates the second floor,
and over the door in the recess is a Venetian
window, ornamented with two columns of the
Corinthian order, surmounted by the arms of the
bank.” ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [The Mourd of the sums set down in their respective subscriptions towards carrying on ...

Vol. 3  p. 94 (Rel. 0.65)

343 - George Square.] LORD DUNCAN.
of the Scots Brigade, I have the honour to present
these colours to you, and I am very happy in
having this opportunity of expressing my wishes
that the brigade may continue by good conduct
to merit the approbation of our gracious sovereign,
and to ‘maintain that high reputation which all
Europe knows that ancient and respectable corps
has most deservedly enjoyed.”
His address was received with great applause, - and many of the veterans who had served since
their boyhood in Holland were visibly affected.
We have already referred to the tragic results of
the Dundas riots in this square during 1792, when
the mob broke the windows of the Lord Advocate’s
house, and those of Lady Arniston and Admiral
Duncan, who, with a Colonel Dundas, came forth
and assailed the rabble with their sticks, but
were pelted with stones, and compelled to fly for
she1 t er.
The admiral’s house was KO. 5, on the north
side of the square, and it was there his family
resided while he hoisted his flag on board his ship
the Yenwable, and blockaded the Texel, till the
mutiny at the Nore and elsewhere compelled him
to bear up for the Yarmouth Roads; and in the
October of that year (1797) he won the great battle
of Camperdown, and with it a British peerage. The
great ensign and sword of the Dutch admiral he
brought home with him, and instead of presenting
them to Government, retained them in his own
house in George Square j and there, if we rernember
rightly, they were shown by him to Sir James
Hall of Dunglass, and his son, the future Captain
Basil Hall, then an aspirant for the navy, to
whom the admiral said, with honest pride, as he
led him into the room where the Dutch ensign
hung-
“Come, my lad, and 1’11 show you something
worth looking at.”
The great admiral died at Kelso in 1804, but
for inany years after that period Lady Duncan
resided in No. 5.
It was while the Lord Advocate Dundas was
resident in the square that, at the trial of Muir
and the other “political martyrs,’’ he spoke of
the leaders of the United Irishmen as ‘‘ wretches
who had fled from punishment.” On this, Dr.
Drennan, as president, and Archibald Hamilton
Rowan of Killileagh, demanded, in 1793, a recantation
of this and other injurious epithets. No
reply was accorded, and as Mr. Rowan threatened
a hostile visit to Edinburgh, measures for his apprehension
were taken by the Procurator Fiscal.
Accompanied by the Hon. Simon Butler, Mr.
Rowan .arrived at Dumbreck‘s Hotel, St. Andrew
Square, when the former, as second, lost no time
in visiting the Lord Advocate in George Square,
where he was politely received by his lordship,
who said that, “although not bound to give any
explanation of what he might consider proper tu
state in his official capacity, yet he would answer
Mr. Rowan’s note without delay.” But Mr. Butler
had barely returned to Mr. Rowan when they were
both arrested on a sheriff’s warrant, but were liberated
on Colonel Norman Macleod, M.P., becoming
surety for them, and they left Edinburgh, after
being entertained at a public dinner by a select
number of the Friends of the People in Hunter’s
Tavern, Royal Exchange.
In No. 30 dwelt Lord Balgray for about thirty
years, during the whole time he was on the bench,
me of the last specimens of the old race of Scottish
judges ; and there he died in 1837.
In No. 32 lived for many years Francis Grant of
Kilgraston, whose fourth son, also Francis, became
President of the Royal Academy, and was knighted
[or great skill as an artist, and whose fifth son,
General Sir James Hope Grant, G.C.B., served
with such distinction under Lord Saltoun in China,
and subsequently in India, where he led the 9th
Lancers at Sobraon, and who further fought with
such distinction in the Punjaub war, and throughout
the subsequent mutiny, under Lord Clyde, and
whose grave in the adjacent Grange Cemeteryis
now so near the scenes of his boyhood.
In No. 36 lived Admiral Maitland of Dundrennan,
and in No. 53 Lady Don, who is said to have
been the last to use a private sedan chair.
No. 57 was the residence of the Lord Chief
Baron Dundas, and therein, on the 29th of May,
181 I, died, very unexpectedly, his uncle, the celebrated
Lord Melville, who had come to Edinburgh
to attend the funeral of his old friend the Lord
President Blair, who had died a few days before,
and was at that time lying dead in No. 56, the
house adjoining that in which Melville expired.
No. 58 was the house of Dr, Charles Stuart 01
Duneam in the first years of the present century.
His father, James Stuart of Dunearn, was a greatgrandson
of the Earl of Moray, and was Lord
Provost of the city in 1764 and 1768. The
doctor‘s eldest son, James Stuart of Dunearn, W.S.,
a well-known citizen of Edinburgh, died in 1849.
The private sedan, so long a common feature
in the areas or lobbies of George Square, is no
longer to be seen there now. In the Edinburgh of
the eighteenth century there were fir more sedans
than coaches in use. The sedan was better suited
for the narrow wynds and narrower closes of the
city, and better fitted, under all the circmtances, ... - George Square.] LORD DUNCAN. of the Scots Brigade, I have the honour to present these colours to you, and I ...

Vol. 4  p. 343 (Rel. 0.63)

William Arbuthnot, who twice held the chair in
1815, and again in 1821. He was created a
baronet by the King in person on the 24th of
August, 1822, at the banquet given to his Majesty
by the City in the Parliament House; but the
patent bore date, 3rd April, 1823. He was a son
of Arbuthnor of Haddo, who, like himself, had
been an official in the Trustees office. In the
interim Kincaid Mackenzie and John Manderston
had been Lords Provost-the former in 1817. He
was a wine merchant in the Lawnmarket, and while
in office had the honour of entertaining at his house
in Gayfield Square, first, the Russian Grand Duke
Michael, and subsequently Prince Leopold, the
future King of the Belgians.
Among the most eminent Lords Provost of later
years we may refer to Sir James Forrest, Bart., of
Comiston, who received his title in rS38. During
his reign Queen Victoria paid her first visit to her
Scottish metropolis in 1842. He was worthily
succeeded in 1843 by the late Adam Black, M.P.,
the distinguished publisher,
In 1848 the Lord Provost was the eminent
engraver William Johnstone, who was knighted in
1851, when he was succeeded by Duncan
M‘Laren, a wealthy draper in the High Street,
afterwards M.P. for the city, and well known as a
steady upholder of Scottish interests in the House.
On the 7th August, 1860, during the prorostry of
Francis Brown Douglas, Advocate, there took place
thegreat review before the Queen and Royal Family
in Holyrood Park of 22,ooo Scottish Volunteers,
’ merchants perhaps in Scotland, and who had the
honour to entertain at his house, 35, George Square,
the Prince and Princess of Wales. It was during
Mr. Lawson’s reign that, on the 10th of hfarch,
1863, the Prince’s marriage took place, an occasion
that gave rise to the great and magnificent illumination
of the city-a spectacle the like of which has
never been seen, before or since, in this country.
His successor, in 1865, was William Chambers,
LL. D., the well-known Scottish writer, and member
of the eminent publishing firm of W. and
R. Chambers, High Street, during whose double
tenure of office the work of demolition in connection
with the city improvements commenced
in the block of buildings between St. Mary’s Wynd
and Gullan’s Close, Cannongate, on the 15th June,
1868. A grand review and sham-fight of volunteers
and regulars, to the number of 10,000 men, took
place in the royal park on the 4th July ; and subsequently
the freedom of the City was bestowed
upon Lord Napier of Magdala, and upon that
far-famed orator, John Bright, M.P. In 1874
James Falshaw was elected to the chair, the j ~ s t
Englishman who ever held such an office in Edinburgh.
He was created a baronet of the United
Kingdom in 1876 on the occasion of the unveiling
by the Queen of the Scottish National Memorial of
the late Prince Consort in Charlotte Square. He
was preceded in the chair by William Law, and
succeeded in 1877 by Sir Thomas Jamieson Boyd,
the well-known publisher, who was knighted in
1881 on the occasion of the Volunteer Review.
CHAPTER XXXV.
INFIRMARY STREET AND THE OLD HIGH SCHOOL.
Blackfriars Monastq-Its Formdation-Destrpyed by Fire-John Black the Dominican-The Friary Gardens- Lady Yester : her Church
and TomLThe Buryiug Ground-The Old High School--The Ancient Grammar School-David Vocat-School Founded-Hercules
RdlLlock-Early ClassesThe House Destroyed hy the English-The Bleis-Silver-David Malloch-The Old High Schml-Thomas
Ruddiman, Rector-Barclay’s Class-Henry Mackenzii’s Reminiscences-Dr. Addam, Rector : his Grammar-New Edifice Proposcd
and Erected-The School-boy Days of Sir Water Scott-Allan Masterton-The School in 1803-Death of Rector Adam-James
Pdans, M.A., and A R Canon, RectorsThe New Schwl Projected-The Old one Abandoned.
INFIRMARY STREET is now a continuation of
Chambers Street to the eastward, and is a thoroughfare
of great antiquity, as it led from the north
side of the Kirk-of-field, past the Dominican
Monastery and &to the Old High School Wynd.
In 1647 it was a double street with one long continuous
line of houses, occupyiing the whole front- ! Dominican or Blackfriars’ Monastery, founded in
age of the future infirmary, and having six long
abutments (or short closes) running south towards
the south-eastem flank of the City wall.
On the exact site of the Old Surgical Hospital
there stood for nearly four hundred years a great
edifice of which now not a trace remains, the ... Arbuthnot, who twice held the chair in 1815, and again in 1821. He was created a baronet by the King in ...

Vol. 4  p. 284 (Rel. 0.63)

18
secure lock was placed upon it for the same purpose.
In 1647 only three open thoroughfares are shown
OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. r.,anongate.
1695, he early exhibited great talent with profound
legal knowledge, and the mere enumeration of his I
but there once stood on its eastern side a stately
ald tenement, bearing the date 1614 with this pious
legend: I. TAKE. THE. LORD. JESUS. AS. MY. ONLV.
ALL. SUFFICIENT. P~RTION. TO. CONTENT. ME. This
was cut in massive Roman letters, and the house
was adorned by handsome dormer windows and
moulded stringcourses; but of the person who dwelt
therein no memory remains. And the same must
be said of the edifices in the closes called Morocco
and Logan’s, and several others.
Between these two lies Rae’s Close, .very dark and
narrow, leading only to a house with a back green,
beyond which can be seen the Calton Hill. In
the sixteenth century this alley was the only open
thoroughfare to the north between Leith Wynd
’
Kinloch’s mansion and that which adjoined itthe
abode of the Earls of Angus-were pulled
down about 1760, when New Street was built, “a
curious sample of fashionable modem improvement,
prior to the bold scheme of the New Town,”
and first called Young Street, according to Kincaid.
Though sorely faded and decayed, it still presents
a series of semi-aristocratic, detached, and not indigent
mansions of the plain form peculiar to the
time. Among its inhabitants were Lords Kames
and Railes, Sir Philip Ainslie, the Lady Betty
Anstruther, Christian Rarnsay daughter of the poet,
Dr. Young the eminent physician, and others,
Henry Home, Lord Kames, who was raised
to the bench in 1752, occupied a self-contained
to the north-one the Tolbooth Wynd-and all are
closed by arched gates in a wall bounding the
Canongate on the north, and lying parallel with a
long watercourse flowing away towards Craigentinnie,
and still extant.
Kinloch’s Close, described in 1856 as “short,
dark, and horrible,” took its name from Henry
Kinloch, a wealthy burgess of the‘ Canongate in
the days of Queen Mary, who committed to his
hospitality, in 1565, when she is said to have
acceded to the League of Bayonne, the French
. ambassadors M. de Rambouillet and Clernau,
who came on a mission from the Court of France.
Their ostensible visit, however, was more probably
to invest Darnley with the order of St. Michael.
They had come through England with a train of
thirty-six mounted gentlemen. After presenting
themselves before the king and queen at Holyrood,
according to the ‘‘ Diurnal of Occurrent$,”
they “there after depairtit to Heny Kynloches
lugeing in the Cannogait besyid Edinburgh.”
A few days after Darnley was solemnly invested
with the collar of St. Michael in the abbey church;
and on the I rth of February the ambassadors were
banqueted, and a masked ball y.as given, when
“ the Queenis Grace and all her Manes and ladies
were cZed in men’s appardy and each of them presented
a sword, “ brawlie and maist artificiallie
made a d embroiderit with gold, to the said ambassatour
and his gentlemen.” Next day they were
banqueted in the castle by the Earl of Mar, and
on the‘ next ensuing they took their departure for
France vid England.
works on law and history would fill a large page.
He was of a playful disposition, and fond of practical
jokes; but during the latter part oc his life
he entertained a nervous dread that he would outlive
his noble faculties, and was pleased to find
that by the rapid decay of his frame he would
escape that dire calamity; and he died, after a brief
illness, in 1782, in the eighty-seventh year of his
age. The great Dr. Hunter, of ‘the Tron church,
afterwards lived and died in this house.
Lord Hailes, to whom we have referred elsewhere,
resided during his latter years in New
Street; but prior to his promotion to the‘bench
he generally lived at New Hailes. His house,
No. 23, was latterly possessed by Mr. Ruthven, the
ingenious improver of the Ruthven printing-press.
Christian Ramsay, the daughter of “honest
Allan,” and so named from her mother, Christian
Ross,’lived for many years in New Street, She
was an amiable and kind-hearted woman, and
possessed something of her fatheis gift of verse.
In her seventy-fourth year she was thrown down
by a hackney-coach and had her leg broken ; yet
she recovered, and lived to be eighty-eight. Leading
a solitary life, she took a great fancy to cats,
and besides supporting many in her house, cosily
disposed of in bandboxes, she laid out food for
others around her house. “Not a word of obloquy
would she listen to against the species,” says the
author of “ Traditions of Edinburgh,” ‘‘ alleging,
when any wickedness of a cat was spoken 05 that
the animal must have acted under provocation,
for by nature, she asserted, they were hapless ... lock was placed upon it for the same purpose. In 1647 only three open thoroughfares are shown OLD AND ...

Vol. 3  p. 17 (Rel. 0.63)