Old and New Edinburgh

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NEW YEAR’S EVE AT THE TRON CHURCH. ... YEAR’S EVE AT THE TRON ...

Vol. 2  p. 186 (Rel. 3.57)

Tron Church.
sum had been paid but once in ten years, yet, if it
had been properly managed, the accumulated sum
behoved to have exceeded ~16,000 sterling."
The old spire had been partially built'of wood
covered with lead, according to a design frequently
repeated on public buildings then in Scotland. It
was copied from the Dutch ; but the examples of it
are rapidly disappearing. A bell, which cost 1,490
merks Scots, was hung in it in 1673, and continued
weekly to summon the parishioners to prayer and
-
EXPLANATION.
A The principal Entry.
B The mea 01 thrSyuare.
C The Piazza,
I3 The Coffee-room inthe west Coffec-hare.
d Rwnis aod Closets in diLlp.
a The Coffee-mm in the middk Ccffec
e Rmpis and Closets in ditm.
F The Coffee-room in the la t Coffeehoux.
f Raoms io ditto.
G The Great Sair leadiog to the Custon
H The P a q e Ieadioi 10 ditt-.
I 'An open for 1etriI.g in li6ht to the Houses
in the Writer's Court under the level of
the Square.
E The Passage belwecn the Square and
Wriicr's Court.
1. Seven Shops withiu the Square
m Four Shops behi d the raqe tvthe srect.
N Ten Shop an a line with the street.
0 An open of four feet for dcoopirg eaws
P Part ot the M'riter-5 Court.
g Area of ditto.
house. -
H0"W.
of the neighbouring houses
B
pounds yearly. It is an edifice of uninteresting
appearance and nondescript style, being neither
Gothic nor Palladian, but a grotesque mixture of
both. It received its name from its vicinity to the
Tron, or public beam for the weighing of merchandise,
which stood near it.
A very elegant stone spire, which was built in
1828, replaces that which perished in the great
conflaggation of four years before.
The Tron beam appears to have been used as
GENERAL PLAN OF THE ROYAL EXCHANGE. (Frmn an Engraviw in fhe "Scofs Mafizzine" fm 1754.)
sermon till the great fire of 1824, when it was
partly melted by heat, and fell with a mighty crash
through the blazing ruins of the steeple. Portions
of it were made into drinking quaighs and similar
memorials.
In 1678 the tower was completed by placing
therein the old clock which had formerly been in
the Weigh House.
Towards the building of this church the pious
Lady Yester gave 1,000 merks. In 1703 the
magistrates appointed two persons to preach alternately
in the Tron Church, to each of whom they
gave a salary of forty guineas, as the Council Re-,
gister shows ; but about 1788 they contented themselves
with one preacher, to whom they gave fifty
a pillory for the punishment of crime. In Niccol's
'' Diary" for 1649, it is stated that " much falset
and cheitting was daillie deteckit at this time by
the Lords of Sessioune; for the whilk there was
daillie nailing of lugs and binding of people to the
Trone, and boring of tongues; so that it was a
fatal year for false notaries and witnesses, as daillie
experience did witness."
On the night of Monday, the 15th of November,
1824, about ten o'clock, the cry of "Fire ! " was
heard in the High Street, and it spread throughout
the city from mouth to mouth ; vast crowds came
from all ,quarters rushing to the spot, and columns
of smoke and flame were seen issuing from the
second *floor of e house at the head of the old ... Church. sum had been paid but once in ten years, yet, if it had been properly managed, the accumulated ...

Vol. 1  p. 188 (Rel. 2.17)

Truir Church 1 THE TRON CHURCH. 187
is, into which the sun scarcely penetrates. But it
once contained a tavern of great consideration in
its time, “The Star and Garter,” kept by a man
named Cleriheugh, who is referred to in “ Guy Mannering,”
for history and romance often march side
by side in Edinburgh, and Scott’s picture of the
strange old tavern is a faithful one. The reader
. of the novel may remember how, on a certain
Saturday night, when in search of Mr. Plzydell,
Dandie Dinmont, guiding Colonel Mannering,
turned into a dark alley, then up a dark stair, and
then into an open door.
While Dandie “was whistling shrilly for the
waiter, as if he had been one of his collie dogs,
Mannering looked around him, and could hardly
conceive how a gentleman of a liberal profession
and good society should choose such a scene foi
social indulgence. Besides the miserable entrance,
the house itself seemed paltry and half ruinous.
The passage in which they stood had a window to
the close, which admitted a little Irght in the daytime,
and a villainous compound of smells at all
times, but more especially towards evening. Corresponding
to this window was a borrowed lighl
on the other side of the passage, looking into the
kitchen, which had no direct communication with
the free air, but received in the daytime, at second.
hand, such straggling and obscure light as found
its way from the lane through the window opposite.
At present, the interior of the kitchen was visible
by its own huge fires-a sort of pandemonium,
where men and women, half-dressed, were busied
in baking, boiling, roasting oysters, and preparing
devils on the gridiron; the mistress of the place,
with her shoes slipshod, and her hair straggling
like that of Megzra from under a round-eared
cap, toiling, scolding, receiving orders and giving
them and obeying them all at once, seemed the
presiding enchantress of that gloomy and fiery
Tegion.”
Yet it was in this tavern, perhaps more than any
other, that the lawyers of the olden time held
their high jinks and many convivialities. Cleriheugh’s
was also a favourite resort of the magistrates
and town councillors when a deep ,libation was
deemed an indispensable element in the adjustment
of all civic affairs; thus, in the last century,
city wags used to tell of a certain treasurer d
Edinburgh, who, on being applied to for new rope
to the Tron Kirk bell, summoned the Council to
consider the appeal. An adjournment to Cleriheugh’s
was of course necessary ; but as one dinnei
was insufficient for the settlement of this weighty
matter, it was not until three had been discussed
that the bill was settled, and the old rope spliced !
Before proceeding with the general history ot
the High Street we will briefly notice that of the
Tron Church, and of the great fire in which it was
on the eve of perishing.
The old Greyfriars, with the other city churches,
being found insufficient for the increasing population,
the Town Council purchased two sites, on
which they intended to erect religious fabrics.
One was on the Castle Hill, where the reservoir
now stands ; the other was where the present Tron
Church is now built. This was in the year 1637,
when the total number of householders, as shown
by the Council records, could not have been much
over 5,000, as a list made four years before ‘shows
the numbers to have been 5,071, and the annual
amount ofrents payable by them only ;EI~z,I 18 ss.,
hots money.
Political disturbances retarded the progress of
both these new churches. The one on the Castle
Hill was totally abandoned, after having been
partially destroyed by the English during the siege
in 1650 ; and the other-the proper name of which
is Christ’s Church at the Tron-was not ready for
public worship till 1647, nor was it completely
finished ,till 1663, at the cost of A6,000, so much
did war with England and the contentions of the
Covenanters and Cavaliers retard everything and
impoverish the nation. On front of the tower over
the great doorway a large ornamented panel bears
the city arms in alto-relievo, and beneath them the
inscription-XDEM HANC CHRISTO ET ECCLESIE
SACRARUNT CIVES EDINBGRGENSES,, ANNO Doxr
MDCLI. It is finished internally with an open roof
of timber-work, not unlike that of the Parliament
House.
Much of the material used in the construction of
the sister church on the Castle Hill was pulled
down and used in the walls of the Tron, which the
former was meant closely to resemble, if we may
judge from the plan of Gordon of Rothiemay. 10
1644 the magistrates bought 1,000 stone weight of
copper in Amsterdam to cover the roof; but such
were the exigencies of the time that it was sold,
and stones and lead were substituted in its place.
In 1639 David Mackall, a merchant of Edinburgh;
gave >,so0 merks, or about ;E194 sterling,
to the magistrates in trust, for purchasing land, to
be applied to the maintenance of a chaplain in
the Tron Church, where he was to preach every
Sunday morning at six o’clock, or such other hour
as the wgistrates should appoint They may be
truly said, continues Arnot, “to have hid this
talent in a napkin. They did not‘ appoint a
preacher for sixty-four years. As money then
bore ten per cent., although the interest of thii ... Church 1 THE TRON CHURCH. 187 is, into which the sun scarcely penetrates. But it once contained a tavern of ...

Vol. 1  p. 187 (Rel. 2.06)

$52 ’ OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Leith.
remainder of the structure cannot be earlier than
the close of the sixteenth century, and the date
on the steeple, which closely resembles that of the
old Tron church, destroyed in the great fire of 1824,
4‘St. Ninian’s chapel still occupies its ancient
site on the bank of the Water of Leith, but very
little of the original structure of the good abbot
remains : probably no more than a small portion
of the basement wall on the north side, where a
small doorway appears with an elliptical arch, now
built up and .partly sunk in the ground. The
There is a more modem addition to the new
church, erected apparently in the reign of Queen
Anne, and into it has beeeuilt a sculptured lintel,
bearing in large Roman letters the legend :-
present edifice on the old one, erected a parsonage,
and in i 606 obtained an Act of Parliament erecting
the district into a parish, named North Leith, which,
even after the Reformation was achieved, had nu
pastor in place of the old chaplain till 1599, when
a Mr. James Muirhead was appointed to the
ministry.
is 1675.’’
After the Reformation, when the chaplain’s
house, the tithes, and other pertinents of the chaDei,
- -
“BISSSED. AR. THEY. YAT. HEIR. YE. VORD. OF. GOD,
AND. KEEP. 1600.
were ‘acquired by purchase- from John Bothieli
the Protestant commendator of Holyrood, the new
proprietors immediately rebuilt, or engrafted, the
When erected into a parish Ehurch, it was endowed
with sundry grants, including the neighbouring
chapel and hospital of St. Nicholas. ... ’ OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Leith. remainder of the structure cannot be earlier than the close of the sixteenth ...

Vol. 6  p. 252 (Rel. 1.71)

mission, though in a foreign army. After suffering
a month's imprisonment, they were glad to profess
PLAN OF EDINBURGH, FROM sr. GILES'S TO HACKBRSTON'S WYND. (Aftpy Gordm ofbotkicnury..)
. Q The High Street; 11, The Tolbooth ; 12, The High Cross or Market Cross ; 13, The Tmn : 19, Meal Market : 10, The Parliament House :
23, The Fish Market ; 23. The Flesh Market ; 38, S. Monan's Wynd ; 39, FEh Market Wynd : 40, Borthwick's Wynd ; 41, Conn's Close;
42, Bell's Wynd : 43. Steven Law's Close ; 44, Peebles Wynd ; 45, Marlin's Wynd ; 46, Niddry's Wynd ; 47, Dickson's Close ; 48, The
Blackfriars Wynd ; 57, Hackenton's Wynd ; m, The Great Kxk, or St. Giles's Kirk ; n, The Tron Kirk.
dwelling-house, about eight in the evening, accompanied
by her orphan granddaughter, then fourteen
Privy Council (as its record attests), and thus to
During the preceding century the abduction of
women and girls was no uncommon thing in Edinburgh.
On the 8th December, 1608, Rfargaret
. Stewart, a widow, complained to the Privy Council
- obtain their liberty.
beset her, with six men armed like himself, with
swords, gauntlets, steel bonnets, and plate sleeves,
and violently took the child from her, despite her
tears and manifold supplications.
For this Geddes was outlawed; and soon after
the Privy Council was compelled to renew some ... though in a foreign army. After suffering a month's imprisonment, they were glad to profess PLAN OF ...

Vol. 2  p. 197 (Rel. 1.38)

CONTENTS. B
CHAPTER XV.
. THE CHURCH OF ST. GILES. PAGE
SL Giles’s Church-The Patron Saint-Its Wgh and early Norman style-The Renovation of xEzg-History of the StrucsPmcession of
the Saint‘s Relics-The Preston Relic-The Chapel of the Duke of Albany-Funeral of the Regent Morray-The “Gude Regent’s
Aisle”-The Assembly Aisle-Dispute between James VI. and the Church Part-Departure of James VI.-Haddo’s Hole-The
Napier Tomb-The Spire and Iantun--Clak and Bells-The Krames-Restoration of 1878 . . . . . . . 1.38 . .
CHAPTEK XVI.
THE NEIGHBOURHOOD OF ST. GILES’S.
St Giles’s Churchyard-The Maison Dieu-The Clam-shell Turnpike-The Grave of Knox-The City C-The Summons of Pint-
Executions : Kirkaldy, Gilderoy, and othe-The Caddies-The Dyvours Stane-The LnckenboobThe Auld Kirk Style-Byre’s
Lodging--Lord Coaktoun’s Wig-Allan Ramsay’s Library and ‘‘ Creech’s Land”-The Edinburgh Halfpenny . . . . . 1 4
f .
CHAPTEK XVII.
‘ THE PARLIAMEXT HOUSE.
Site of the Parliament Iiouse-The Parliament Hall-Its fine Roof-Proportions-Its External Aspect of Old-Pictures and Statues-The
Great South Window-The Side Windows-Scots Prisoners of War-General Monk Feasted-A Scene with Gen. DalyeU-The Fire of
17-Riding of the Parliament-The Union-Its due Effects and ultimate good Results-Trial of Covenanters . . . . . 157
CHAPTER XVIII.
THE PARLIAMENT HOUSE (continued).
The Faculty of Advocates-The Wr:ters to the Signet-Solicitors before the Supreme Court-The First Lords of Session-The Law Courts-
The Court of Session: the Outer and Inner HousesXollege of Justice-Supreme Judicature Court-Its Corrupt Nature-How Justice
used to be defatec-Abduction of Lord Dune-Some Notable Senators’of the Seventeenth and Eighteenth Centuries: Lord0
Fountainhall, Covington, Monboddo, Kames, Hailes, Gardenstone. Amiston, Balmuto, and Hermand . . . . . , I66
CHAPTER XIX.
THE PARLIAMENT CLOSE.
Probable Extinction of the Court of Scion-Memorabiliaof the Parliament Close‘and Square-Goldsmiths of the OldenTime-Gearge Heriot-
HIS Workshop-His Interview with James VI.-Peter Williamson’s Tavern-Royal Exchange-Statueof Charles 11.-Bank of Satha-
The Fire of 17-The Work of Restoration-John Row’s Coffee-house-John’s Coffee-house-SylvesterOtwaFSir W. Forbes‘s Bank-
6ir Walter Scott’s Eulogy on Sir Willkm Forks-John Kay’s Print-shopThe Parliament ShirsiJames Sibbald-A Libel Gsc-Fire
in Junz IllatDr. Archibald Pitcairn-lhe “Greping Office”-Painting of King Charles’s Statue White-Seal of Arnauld Lzmmiua 174
CHAPTER XX.
THE ROYAL EXCHAGGE-THE TRON CHURCH-THE GREAT FIRE OF NOVEMBER, 18%
The Royal Exchange-Laying the Foundation Stone-Description of the Exchanee-The Mysterious Statue-The Council Chamber-
Convention of Rayal Burghs : Constitution thereof, and Powers-Writers’ Court-The s‘ Star and Garter ” Tavern-Sir Walter
Scotth Account of the Scene at Clenheugh‘s-Lawyers’ High Jinks-The Tron Church-History of the Old Church-The Great Fire
of 18z4-1nddents of the ConAagration-The Ruin9 Undermined-Blown up by Captain Head of the Engioew . . . . 183
CHAPTER XXI.
T H E H I G H S T R E E T .
A Place for Blawling-First Paved and Lighted-The Meal and Flesh Market-State of the Streets-Municipal Regnlations 16th Ccntury-
Tulzies-The Lairds of Airth and Wemyss-The Tweedies of Drumrnelzier-A Montrose Quarrel-The Slaughter of Lord T o r t h d d
-A Brawl in 1705-Attacking a Sedan Chair-Habits in the Seventeenth Century-Abduction of Women and Girls-Sumptuary
Laws against Women . , . . - . . . . . , . . . . . . . . . . . , . 191
CHAPTER XXII.
THE HIGH STREET (continucd).
Thc City in 1598-Fynes Morison on the Manners of the Inhabitants-Tle “Lord” Provost of Edinburgh-Police of the City-Taylor the
Water Poet-Banquets at the Cross-The hard Case of the Earl of Traquair-A Visit of H-The Quack and his Acrobats-A
Procession of Covenanters-Early Stages and Street Caaches--Salc of a Dancing-girl-Constables appointed in Ip-First Numher of
the Courrmt-The Cnledomian Mercwy-Carting away of the strata of Street Filth-Candition of old Houses . . . . . 198 ... B CHAPTER XV. . THE CHURCH OF ST. GILES. PAGE SL Giles’s Church-The Patron Saint-Its Wgh and early ...

Vol. 2  p. 387 (Rel. 1.31)

The Royal Excharge.] THE ROYAL EXCHANGE. 183 -
CHAPTER XX.
THE ROYAL EXCHANGE-THE TRON CHURCH-THE GREAT FIRE OF NOVEMBER, 1824.
The Royal Exchange-Laying the Foundation Stonc-Ddption of the Exchange-The Mysterious Statue-The Council Cbarnber-hventiom
of Royal Burghs : Constitution thereof, and Powers-Writen’ Court-The “ Star and Garter” Tavern-Sir Walter Scott’s Account
of the Scene at Cleriheugh‘s-Lawyers’ High Jinks-The Tron Church-Histor] of the Old Church-Tht Gnat Fire of rSa~-lnciden~s
of the Conflagration-The Ruins Undermined-Blown up by Captain Head of the Engineers,
Ira 1753 we discover the first symptoms of vitality
in Edinburgh after the Union, when the pitiful
sum of A1,500 was subscribed by the convention
of royal burghs, for the purpose of “ beautifying
the city,” and the projected Royal Exchange was
fairly taken in hand.
If wealth had not increased much, the population
had, and by the middle of the eighteenth
century the citizens had begun to find the inconvenience
they laboured under by being confined
within the old Flodden wall, and that the city was
still destitute of such public buildings as were
necessary for the accommodation of those societies
which were formed, or forming, in all other capitals,
to direct the business of the nation, and provide
for the general welfare ; and so men of tas‘te, rank,
and opulence, began to bestir themselves in Edinburgh
at last.
Many ancient alleys and closes, whose names
are well-nigh forgotten now, were demolished on
the north side of the Righ Street, to procure a
site for the new Royal Exchange. Some of these
had already become ruinous, and must have been
of vast antiquity. Many beautifully-sculptured
stones belonging to houses there were built into
the curious tower, erected by Mr. Walter Ross at
the Dean, and are now in a similar tower at Portobello,
Others were scattered about the garden
grounds at the foot of the Castle rock, and still
show the important character of some of the
edifices demolished. Among them there was a
lintel, discovered when clearing out the bed 01
the North Loch, with the initials IS. (and the
date 1658), supposed to be those of Jaines tenth
Lord Somerville, who, after serving long in the
Venetian army, died at a great age in 1677.
On the 13th of September, 1753, the first stone
of the new Exchange was laid by George Drummond,
then Grand Master of the Scottish Masons,
whose memory as a patriotic magistrate is still remembered
with respect in Edinburgh. A triumphal
arch, a gallery for the magistrates, and covered
stands for the spectators, enclosed the arena.
“The procession was very grand and regular,”
says the Gentleman’s Magazine for that year.
each lodge of maSons, of which there were
thirteen, walked in procession by themselves, all
uncovered, amounting to 672, most of whom were
operative masons.” The military paid proper
honours to the company on this occasion, and escorted
the procession in a suitable manner. The
Grand Master and the present substitute were
preceded by the Lord Provost, magistrates, and
council, in their robes, with the city sword, mace,
&c., carried before them, accompanied by the
directors of the scheme.
All day the foundation-stone lay open, that the
people might see it, with the Latin inscription on
the plate, which runs thus in English :-
“ GEORGE DKUMMOND,
Of the Society of Freemasons in Scotland Grand Master,
Thrice Provost of the City of Edinburgh,
Three hundred Brother Masons attending,
In presence of many persons of distinction,
The Magistrates and Citizens of Edinburgh,
And of every rank of people an innumerable multitude,
And all Applaudipg ;
For convenience of the inhabitants of Edinburgh,
And the public ornament,
Laid this stone,
Wdliam Alexander being Provost,
On the 13th September, 1753. of the Era of Masonry 5753,
And of the reign of George II., King of Great Britain,
the 27th yea.”
In the stone were deposited two medals, one
bearing the profile and name of the Grand Master,
the other having the masonic arms, with the collar
of St. Andrew, and the legend, “ In the Lord is
all our trust.”
Though the stone was thus laid in 1753, the
work was not fairly begun till the following year,
nor was it finished till 1761, at the expense of
A31,5oo, including the price of the area on which
it is built ; but it never answered the purpose for
which it was intended-its paved quadrangle and
handsome Palladian arcades were never used by
the mercantile class, who persisted in meeting, as
of old, at the Cross, or where it stood.
Save that its front and western arcades have
been converted into shops, it remains unchanged
since it was thus described by Arnot, and the back I
view of it, which faces the New Town, catches the
eye at once, by its vast bulk and stupendous height,
IOO feet, all of polished ashlar, now blackened with -
the smoke of years :--.“The Exchange is a large
and elegant building, with a court in the -centre.
, ... Royal Excharge.] THE ROYAL EXCHANGE. 183 - CHAPTER XX. THE ROYAL EXCHANGE-THE TRON CHURCH-THE GREAT FIRE OF ...

Vol. 1  p. 183 (Rel. 1.26)

c
152 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH, [Leith Walk,
In I 748 the thoroughfare is described as “a very
handsome gravel walk, twenty feet broad, which is
kept in good repair at the public expense, and no
horses suffered to come upon it.” In 1763 two
stage coaches, with three horses, a driver, and
postilion each, ran between Edinburgh and Leith
every hour, consuming an hour on the way, from
8 a.m. to 8 p.m. ; and at that time there were no
other stage coaches in Scotland, except one which
set out at long intervals for London.
Before that nothing had been done, though in
1774 the Week0 Magazine announced that “a new
road for carriages is to be made betwixt Edinburgh
and Leith. It is to be continued from the end of
the New Bridge by the side of Clelland’s Gardens
and Leith Walk. [Clelland‘s Feu was where Leith
Terrace is now.] We hear that the expense of it
is to be defrayed by subscription.”
In I779 Arnot states that “so great is the concourse
of people passing between Edinburgh and
HIGH STREET, PORTOBELLO.
In 1769, when Provost Drummond built the
North Bridge, he gave out that it was to improve
the access to Leith, and on this pretence, to conciliate
opposition to his scheme, upon the plate in
the foundation-stone of the bridge it is solely described
as the opening of a new road to Leith;
and after it was opened the Walk became freely
used for carriages, but without any regard being
paid to its condition, or any system established
for keeping it in repair ; thus, consequently, it fell
into a state of disorder “from which it was not
rescued till after the commencement of the present
century, when a splendid causeway was formed at
a great expense by the city of Edinburgh, and a
toll erected for its payment.”
Leith, and so much are the stage coaches employed,
that they pass and re-pass between these towns
156 times daily. Each of these carriages holds
four persons.” The fare in some was 2hd.; in
others, gd.
In December, 1799, the Herald announces that
the magistrates had ordered forty oil lamps for
Leith Walk, ‘‘ which necessary k~iprovement,” adds
the editor, will, we understand, soon tzke place.”
Among some reminiscences, which appeared
about thirty years ago, we. have a description of
Anderson’s Leith stage, ‘ I which took an hour and
a half to go from the Tron Church to the shore. A
great lumbering affair on four wheels, the two fore
1 painted yellow, the two hind red, having formerly ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH, [Leith Walk, In I 748 the thoroughfare is described as “a very handsome gravel ...

Vol. 5  p. 152 (Rel. 1.26)

Hig5 Street.! BISHOP BOTHWELL. 219 .
CHAPTEX X Y v r .
THE. HIGH STREET ( ~ ~ ~ f h t d ) .
The Ancient Markets-The House of Adam Bothwell, Bishop of Orkney-The Bishop and Queen Mary-His Sister Anne-Sir Williarn Dick.
of Braid-& Colossal Wealth-Hard Fortune-The “ Lamexable State”-Advocates’ Close-Sir James Stewart’s House-Andreu
Cmbie, ‘ I Counsellor Pleydell ”-Scougal’s House-His Picture Gallery-Roxburghe Close-Waniston’s Close-Lmd Philiphaugh‘s
House-Bruce of Binning’s Mansion-Messrs. W. and R. Chambers’s Printing and Publkhing Establishment-History of the Firm-
House of Su Thomas Craig-Sir Archibald Johnston of Warnstoa
PREVIOUS to 1477 there were no particular places
assigned for holding the different markets in the
city, and this often caused much personal strife
among the citizens. To remedy this evil, James 1II.j
by letters patent, ordained that the markets for the
various commodities should be held in the following
parts of the city, viz. :-
In the Cowgate, the place for the sale of hay,
straw, grass, and horse-meat, ran from the foot ol
Forester‘s Wynd to the foot of Peebles Wynd.
The flesh market was to be held in the High
Street, on both sides, from Niddry’s Wynd to the
Blackfriars Wynd; the salt market to be held in
the former Wynd.
The crames, or booths, for chapmen were to be
set up between the Bell-house and the Tron on the
north side of the street; the booths of the hatmakers
and skinners to be on the opposite side of
the way.
The wood and timber market extended from
Dalrymple’s Yard to the Greyfriars, and westward.
The place for the sale of shoes, and of red barked
leather, was between Forrester’s Wynd and the
west wall of Dalrymple’s Yard.
The cattIe-market, and that for the sale of
slaughtered sheep, wcs to be abaut the Tron-beam,
and so U doun throuch to the Friar’s Wynd ; alsa,
all pietricks, pluvars, capones, conyngs, chekins,
and all other wyld foulis and tame, to be usit and
sald about the Market Croce.”
All living cattle were not to be brought into the
town, but to be sold under the walls, westward of
the royal stables, or lower end of the Grassmarket.
Meal, grain, and corn were to be retailed from
the Tolbooth up to Liberton’s Wynd.
The Upper Bow was the place ordained for the
sale of all manner of cloths, cottons, and haberdashery;
also for butter, cheese, and wool, “and
sicklike gudis yat suld be weyif” at a tron set
there, but not to be opened before nine A.M. Beneath
the Nether Bow, and about st. Mary’s
Wynd, was the place set apart for cutlers, smiths,
lorimers, lock-makers, “and sicklike workmen ; and
all armour, p i t h , gear,” and so forth, were to be
sold in the Friday market, before the Greyfriars’.
In Gordon of Rothiemay’s map “the fleshstocks
” are shown as being in the Canongate,
immediately below the Nether Bow Port.
Descending the High Street, after passing Bank
Street, to which we have already referred, there is
situated one of the most remarkable old edifices in
the city-the mansion of Adam Bothwell, Bishop
of Orkney. It stands at the foot of Byres’ Close,
so named from the house of Sir John Byres of
Coates, but is completely hidden from every point
save the back windows of the Dui0 Review office.
A doorway on the east side of the close gives access
to a handsome stone stair, guarded by a curved
balustrade, leading to a garden terrace that overlooked
the waters of the loch. Above this starts
abruptly up the north front of the house, semihexagonal
in form, surmounted by three elegantlycarved
dormer windows, having circular pediments,
and surmounted by a finiaL
On one was inscribed L u s prbique Deo; ona
another, FeZider, infeZix.
In this edifice (long used as a warehouse by
Messrs. Clapperton and Co.) dwelt Adam, Bishop
of Orkney, the same prelate who, at four in the.
morning of the 15th of May, 1567, performed in
the chapel royal at Holyrood the fatal marriage
ceremony which gave Bothwell possession of the.
unfortunate and then despairing Queen Mary.
He was a senator of the College of Justice, and
the royal letter in his favour bears, “Providing.
always ye find him able and qualified for administration
of justice, and conform to the acts and
statutes of the College.”
He married the unhappy queen after thenew
forms, “not with the mess, but with preachings,”
according to the ‘‘ Diurnal of Occurrents,” in
the chapel; according to Keith and others, “in
the great hall, where the Council usually met”’
But he seemed a pliable prelate where his own
interests were concerned ; he was one of the first
to desert his royal mistress, and, after her enforced
abdication, placed the crown upon the head of her
infant son ; and in 1568, according to the book of
the ‘‘ Universal Kirk,” he bound himself to preach
a sermon in Holyrood, and therein to confess
publicly his offence in performing a marriage ceremony
for Bothwell and Mary.
As the name of the bishop was appended to that
infamous bond of adherence granted by the Scottish
nobles to Bothwell, before the latter put in practice
his ambitious schemes against his sovereign, it is ... Street.! BISHOP BOTHWELL. 219 . CHAPTEX X Y v r . THE. HIGH STREET ( ~ ~ ~ f h t d ) . The Ancient ...

Vol. 2  p. 219 (Rel. 1.22)

Parliament House
PARLIAMENT HOUSE IN THE PRESENT DAY.
the Earl of Marchmont 
Earl of Cromarty . . . . 300 0 o
Lord Prestonhall . . . , 200 o o
Lord Ormiston, Lord Justice Clerk zoo o o
Duke of Montrose . . . . 200 o o
Dukeof Athole . . . . 1000 o o
Earl ofBalcanis . . . . 500 o o
EarlofDunmore . . . . 200 o o
Stewart of castle Stewari . . 300 o o
Earl of Eglinton . . . . 200 o o
LordFraser . . . . . 100 o o
Lord Cessnock (afterwards Polworth) 50 o o
Mr. JohnCampbell . . . zoo o o
Earl ofForfar . . . . 100 o o
Sir Kenneth Mackenzie. . . IOO o o
EarlofGlencaim . . . . 100 o o
Earl of Kintore . . . . zoo o o
Earl of Findlater . . . . 100 o o
John Muir, Provost of Ayr . . 100 o o
LordForbes . . 5 0 0 0
Earl of Seafield (tfte&ards ’Findlater)
. . . . . 490 o o
Marquis of Tweeddale . . . 1000 o o
Dukeof Roxburghe . . . 500 o o
Lord Elibank‘ . . . . . 50 o o
LordBanff . . . . . 11 z o
Major Cunninghame ofEckatt . 100 o o
Bearer ofthe Treaty of Union . 60 o o
Sir William Sharp. . . . 300 o o
Coultrain, Provostof Wigton . . 25 o o
Mr. Alexander Wedderburn . 75 0 0
High Commissioner (Queensberry) 12,325 o o
L207540 17 7
Lord Anstruther . - . 3 0 0 0 0
Ere the consummation, James Duke of Hamilton
and James Earl of Bute quitted “ the House in disgust
and dispair, to return to it no more.”
The corrupt state of the Scottish peerage can
scarcely excite surprise when we find that, according
to Stair’s Decisions,. Lord Pitsligo, but a few
years before this, purloined Lord Coupar’s watch,
they at the time ‘‘ being sitting in Parliament !”
Under terror of the Edinburgh mobs, who nearly
tore the Chancellor and others limb from limb in the
streets, one half of the signatures were appended tc
the treaty in a cellar of a house, No 177, High
Street, opposite the Tron Church, named “the
Union Cellar;” the rest were appended in an arbour
which then adorned the Garden of Moray House
in the Canongate ; and the moment this was accornplished,
Queensberry and the conspiratofs-for
such they really seem to have been-fled to England
before daybreak, with the duplicate of the treaty.
The Curses,” was long
after sung in every‘street.
A bitter song, known as
“ Curs’d be the Papists who withdrew
The king to their persuasion ;
Cun’d be the Covenanting crew
Who gave the first occasion. ... House PARLIAMENT HOUSE IN THE PRESENT DAY. the Earl of Marchmont Earl of Cromarty . . . . 300 0 ...

Vol. 1  p. 164 (Rel. 1.21)

High Street.] THE STREETS OF EDINBURGH. I93
case with the High Street. -The mansions in the
diverging streets, narrow, steep, gloomy, and illventilated,
became perilous abodes in times of fire
or pestilence.
Those who dwelt in the upper storeys avoided
the toil of descending the steep wheel-stairs that
led to the street, and the entire dkbris of the household
was flung from the windows, regardless of who
or what might be below, especially after nightfall ;
hence the cries of “ Haud your hand ! ” “ Get
lanterns, were ordered to be hung up, by such persons
and in such places as the magistrates should
appoint, there to continue burning for the space of
four hours--i.e., from five till nine o’clock in the
evening.
In consequence of the great assiduity oi the
Provost (Archibald Douglas of Kilspindie), the
Town Council added to his annual allowance 6100
Scots for his clothing and spicery, with two hogs.
heads of wine for his greater state ; and soon after
THE OLD TRON CHURCH. (From am Engraving itr Amt’s “Nistwy ozEdinbrrwh.”)
out 0’ the gait!” or “Gardez Peau!” a shout
copied from the French, were incessant. Another
source of filth and annoyance was the circumstance
that every inhabitant had his own dunghill in the
street, opposite his own door j while the thoroughfkes
were further encumbered and encroached
upon by outside stone stairs, many of which still
remain. Under these were kept swine, which were
allowed to roam the streets (as in old Paris). and
act the part of scavengers, and be alternately the
pets and the terror of the children.
By Acts of Council, 15th October, 1553-5,
the mounds of household garbage were ordained
to be removed, the swine to be prevented from
being a pest in the streets, in which buwefs or
25
another Act was passed, ordaining that the (male)
servants of the inhabitants should attend him with
lighted torches from the vespers or evening prayers
to his own house.
But despite the Acts quoted the streets were not
thoroughly cleared or cleaned for more than sixty
years after. WhenKing JaniesVI., having celebrated
his marriage with Anne of Denmark, on the zznd
October, 1589, was about to return home, he wrote
one of his characteristic epistles to the Provost,
Alexander Clark of Balbirnie :-“ Here we are
drinking and driving in the add way,” and adding,
“for GoZs sake see n’ things are nulf at our hanucoming.”
James did not wish to be exposed in
the eyes of his foreign attendants, and he alludes ... Street.] THE STREETS OF EDINBURGH. I93 case with the High Street. -The mansions in the diverging streets, ...

Vol. 2  p. 193 (Rel. 1.21)

The Great Fire.] THE GREAT FIRE. 189
Assemlily Close, then occupied as a workshop by
Kirkwood, a well-known engraver. The engines
came promptly enough ; but, from some unknown
cause, an hour elapsed before they were in working
order, and by that time the terrible element had
raged with such fierceness and rapidity that, by
eleven o'clock the upper portion of this tenement,
including six storeys, forming the eastern 'division
of a uniform pile of buildings, was one mass of
roaring flames, which, as the breeze was from the
to their elevated position, or the roar of the gathering
conflagration, the shouts of the crowd, and
wailing of women and children, their cries were
unheard for a time, until it was too late. The
whole tenement was lost, together with extensive
ranges of buildings in the old Fish Market and
Assembly Closes, to -which it was the means of
communicating the flames.
While these tall and stately edifices were yielding
to destruction, the night grew calm and still, and
THE ROYAL EXCHANGE.
sooth-west, turned them, as they burst from the
gaping windows, in the direction of a house to the
eastward, the strong' gable of which saved it from
the destruction which seemed imminent.
Two tenements to the westward were less fortunate,
and as, from the narrowness of the ancient
close, it was impossible to work the engines, they
soon were involved in one frightful and appalling
blaze. Great fears mere now entertained for the
venerable Courant office; nor was it long before
the fire seized on its upper storey, at the very time
when some brave fellows got upon the roof of a
tenement to the westward, and shouted to the firemen
to give them a pipe, by which they could
piay upon the adjoining roof, But, owing either
I the sparks emitted by the flames shot upwards as if
spouted from a volcano, and descended like the
thickest drift or snow-storm, affecting the respiration
of all. A dusky, lurid red tinged the clouds,
and the glare shone on the Castle wdls, the
rocks of the Calton, the beetling crags, and all the
city spires. Scores of lofty chimneys, set on fire
by the falling sparks, added to the growing horror
of the scene ; and for a considerable time the Tron
Church was completely enveloped in this perilous
shower of embers.
About one in the morning of the 16th the alarm
of fire was given from a house directly oppoife to
the burning masses, and, though groundless, it
added to the deepening Consternation. Mean ... Great Fire.] THE GREAT FIRE. 189 Assemlily Close, then occupied as a workshop by Kirkwood, a well-known ...

Vol. 1  p. 189 (Rel. 1.18)

60 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. LHol~lrood.
and intriguing apostbte as one of the greatest and
best men of his time.”
In the churchyard, now all turned into flowerbeds
and garden ground, there long remained a
, .few plain gravestones, the inscriptions on some of
range is of a very singular nature to be in the
vicinity of a populous city, being little else than
an assemblage of hills, rocks, precipices, morasses,
and lakes.” It includes Arthur’s Seat and Salisbury
Craigs, and, of course, as a refuge, originated in
which are preserved by Menlteith
in his “Theatre of Mortality,”
and by Maitland in
his C‘History.’l One alone remains
now, that of Mylne
(the builder of the palace),
which was removed from its
ald site (the north-east angle
-of the ancient choir) in 1857,
and placed against the eastern
,wall of the church.
The extent of the ruin as it
now remains is 127 feet in
tlength by 39 feet in breadth,
within the walls; and there
.still exist nominally six deans
.and seven chaplains of the
Chapel Royal, all, of course,
clergymen of the Church of
.Scotland.
The whole ruin has an air
.of intense gloom and damp
THE BELHAVEN MOAUMENT, HOLYROOD
CHURCH.
desolation ; the breeze waves the grass and rank
weeds between the lettered grave-stones, the ivy
rustles on the wall, and by night the owl hoots
in the royal vault and the roofless tower where
.stands the altar-tomb of Belhaven.
For a considerable space around the church and
palace of Holyrood-embracing a circuit of four
miles and a quarter-the open ground has been,
since the days of David I., a sanctuary, and is so
mow, from arrest on civil process. This spacious
the old ecclesiastical privilege
of sanctuary, with the exemptions
of those attached to a
monarch’s court. When the
law of debtor and creditor
was more stringent than it
is now, this peculiarity brought
many far from respectable
visitors to a cluster of houses
round the palace-a cluster
nearly entirely swept away
about I 85 7-as varied in their
appearance as the chequered
fortunes of their bankrupt
inmates j and it is believed
to have been in a great measure
owing to some private
claims, likely to press heavily
upon him, that Charles X.
in his second exile sought
a residence in deserted Holyrood.
The House of Inchmurry, formerly called Kirkland,
in the parish of St. Martin’s, was a country
residence of the abbots of Holyrood.
One of the bells that hung in the remaining tower
was placed in the Tron church steeple, another
in St. Cuthbert’s chapel of ease, and the third in
St. Paul’s, York Place, the congregation of which
had it in their former church in the Canongate,
which was built 1771-4. This last is sniall, and
poor in’ sound.
CHAPTER IX.
HOLYROOD PALACE.
F i ~ t Notice of its History-Marriage of James 1V.-The Scots of the Days of Flodden-A Brawl in the Palace-Jams V.’s. Tower-The Gudeman
of Ballengeich-His Marriage-Death of Queen MagdalentThe Council of November, 1-A Standing Army Proposed-The Muscovite
Ambassadors Entertained by the Queen Regent,
THE occasional residence of so many of his kingly
ancestors at the abbey of Holyrood, and its then
sequestered and rural locality, doubtless suggested
to James IV. the expediency of having a royal
dwelling near it ; thus, we find from the Records of
the Privy Seal the earliest mention of a palace at
Holyrood occurs on the 10th of September, 1504,
when ‘( to Maister Leonard Log, for his gude and
thankful service, done and to be done, to the kingis
hienis, and speciallie for his diligent and grete
laboure made be him in the building of the palace
beside the Abbey of the Holy Croce,” of (( the soume
of forty pounds.” This is the first genuine notice
of the grand old Palace of Holyrood.
In 1503 the then new edifice witnessed the
marriage festival of James IV. and Mzgaret Tudor, ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. LHol~lrood. and intriguing apostbte as one of the greatest and best men of his ...

Vol. 3  p. 60 (Rel. 1.14)

West Church.] MR. NEIL MWICAR. I33 -
those of other sections of the city, took courage, and
sought to retrieve their past ill-conduct by noisily .
preparing to raise forces to defend themselves in
case of a second visit from the Highlanders.
the General Assembly met in the church, and
passed an Act, which, however necessary, perhaps,
in those harassing times, concerning ‘‘ the sine and
guilte of the king and his house,” caused much
suffering to the Covenanters after the Restoration.
It was known by the name of the West Kirk Act,
and was approved by Parliament the same day.
Subsequently, during his siege of the castle
Cromwell made the church a barrack; hence its
roof and windows were destroyed by the guns of
the fortress, and soon little was left of it but the
bare walls, which were repaired, and opened for
service in 1655.
For some years subsequent the sole troubles
of the incumbents were breaches
of “the Sabbath,” such as when
William Gillespie, in 1659, was
“fund carrying watter, and his
wyfe knoking beir,” for which
they had to make public repentance,
or filling people for
“taking snuff in tyme of sermon,”
contrary to the Act of
18th June, 1640; till 1665,
when the ‘‘ great mutiny” in
the parish occurred, and the
minister, William Gordon, for
“ keeping of festivals,” was
railed at by the people, who
closed the doors against him,
for which a man and a woman,
according to Wodrow, were
scourged through Edinburgh.
At the Revolution, those
of ground to the west was added to it (including
the garden,with trees, shown in Gordon’s Map), from
the old boundary to the present west gate at the
Lothian Road. About the same time several
heritors requested permission to inter their dead
in the little or Wester-kirk, which had been a
species of ruin since the invasion of Cromwell.
In 1745, after the victory of the Highlanders at
Prestonpans, a message was sent to the ministers
of the city, in the name cf “Charles, Prince Regent,”
desiring them to preach next day, Sunday,
as usual; but many, alarmed by the defeat of Cope,
sought refuge in the country, and no public worship
was performed within the city, save by a
ST. CUTHBERT’S CHURCH.
(From Cmdm of Potkicmay’s Mu@.)
ministers who had been ejected in 1661, and were
yet alive, returned to their charges. Among them
was Mr. David Williamson, who, in 1689, was
settled in St. Cuthbert’s manse ; but not quietly,
for the castle, defended by the Duke of Gordon,
was undergoing its last disastrous siege by the
troops oC William, and the church suffered so much
damage from shot and shell, that for many months
after the surrender in June, the people were unable
to use it, and the repairs amounted to LI,~OO.
If tradition has not wronged him, Mr. Williamson
is the well-known (‘ Dainty Davie” of Scottish
song, who had six wives ere the seventh, Jean.
Straiton, survived him. He died in August, 1706,
and was buried in the churchyard, where the
vicinity of the grave is alone indicated by the
letters D. W. cut on the front of the tomb in which
he lies.
The ancient cemetery on the knoll having been
found too small for the increasing population and
consequent number of interments, in 1701 a piece
clergyman named Hog a t t h e
Tron.
It was otherwise, however,
at St. Cuthbert’s, the incumbent
of which was then the Rev.
Neil McVicar, yho preached
to a crowded congregation,
many of whom were armed
Highlanders, before whom he
prayed for George 11. and also
for Charles Edward in a fashion
of his own, recorded thus by
Ray, in his history of the time,
and others :-
‘(Bless the king! Thou
knowest what king I mean.
May the crown sit long on his
head. As for that young man
who has come among us to
seek an earthly crown, we ... Church.] MR. NEIL MWICAR. I33 - those of other sections of the city, took courage, and sought to retrieve ...

Vol. 3  p. 133 (Rel. 1.14)

290 OLD -4ND NEW EDINBURGH. urffrey Street
of The Friend of India, and author of the “Life
of Dr. IVilson of Bombay.” The paper has ever
been an advanced Liberal one in politics, and
considerably ahead of the old Whig school.
Jeffrey Street, so named from the famous literary
critic, is one of those thoroughfares formed under
the City Improvement -4ct of 1867. It commences
at the head of Leith Wynd, and‘occasioned
there the demolition of many buildings of remote
antiquity. From thence it curves north-westward,
behind the Ashley Buildings, and is carried on a
viaduct of ten massive arches. Proceeding westward
through Milne’s Court, and cutting off the
lower end of many quaint, ancient, narrow, and it
must be admitted latterly somewhat inodorous
alleys, it goes into line with an old edificed thoroughfare
at the back of the Flesh Market, under the
southern arch of the open part of the North Bridge,
and is built chiefly in the old Scottish domestic
style of architecture, so suited to its peculiar locality.
In this street stands the Trinity College Established
Church, re-erected from the stones of the
original church, to which we shall refer elsewhere.
When the North British Railway Company required
its site, it was felt by all interested in
archzology and art that the destruction of an edifice
so important and unique would be a serious
loss to the city, and, inspired by this sentiment,
the most strenuous efforts were made by the
Lord Provost, Adam Black, and others, to make
some kind of restoration of th; church of Mary
of Gueldres a condition of the company obtaining
possession ; and their efforts were believed to
have been successful when a clause was inserted
in the Company’s Act binding them, before acquiring
Trinity College church, to erect another,
after the same style and model, on a site to be
approved by the sheriff, in or near the parish and
about a dozen of these were suggested, among
others the rocky knoll adjoining the Calton stairs.
The company finding the delay imposed by this
clause extremely prejudicial to their interests,
sought to have it amended, and succeeded in
having “the obligation to erect such a church
raised from them, on the payment of such a sum
as should be found on inquiry, under the authority
of the sheriff, to be sufficient for the site and restoration.
About E18,ooo was accordingly paid
to the Town Council in 1848; the church was
removed, and its stones carefully numbered, and
set aside.”
Questions of site, of the sitters, and the sum to
be actually expended, were long discussed by the
Council and in the press-some members of the
former, with a sentiment of injustice,.wishing to
abolish the congregation altogether, and give the
money to the city. After much litigation, extending
ultimately over a period of nearly thirty years,
the Court of Session in full bench decided that
all the money and the interest accruing therefrom
should be expended on +e church.
This judgment. was reversed, on appeal, by
Lord Chancellor Westbury, who decided that only
;G7,000 “without interest should be given to buy
a site and build a church contiguous to Trinity
Hospital, in which the rest of the money should
vest.” The Town Council of those days seemed
ever intent on crushing this individual parish
church, and, as one of the congregation wrote in an
address in January, 1873, “to these it seemed as
strange as sad, that while all over this island, corporations
and individuals were spending very large
sums in the restoration or preservation of the best
specimens of the art and devotion of their forefathers,
a city so beholden as Edinburgh to the
beautiful and picturesque in situation and buildings,
should not only permit the disappearance of
an edifice of which almost any other city would
have been proud, but when the means and the
obligation to preserve it had been secured, with
much labour by others, should, with almost as
much pains, seek to render nugatory alike the
efforts of these and the certain pious regrets of
posterity.” In 1871 the churchless parish, in
respect of population, held the fourth place in old
Edinburgh (2,882) exceeding the Tolbooth, Tron,
and other congregations.
The church, rebuilt from the stones of the
ancient edifice of 1462, stands on the south side
of Jeffrey Street, at the corner of Chalmers’ Close.
It was erected in 1871-2, from drawings prepared
by Mr. Lessels, architect, and is an oblong structure,
with details in the Norman Gothic style, with
a tower and spire 115 feet in height. It is almost
entirely constructed from the ‘‘ carefully numbered
stones ” of the ancient church, nearly every pillar,
niche, capital, and arch, being in its old place, and,
taken in this sense, the edifice is a very unique one.
Opened for divine service in October, 1877, it is
seated for 900, and has the ancient baptismal font
that stood in the vestry of the church of Mary of
Gueldres placed in the lobby. The old apse has
been restored in toto, and forms the most interesting
portion of the new building. The ancient
baptismal and communion plate of the church are
very valuable, and the latter is depicted in Sir
George Harvey’s well-kncwn picture of the “ Covenanter’s
Baptism,” and, like the communion-table,
date from shortly after the Reformation, and have
been the gifts of various pious individuals. ... OLD -4ND NEW EDINBURGH. urffrey Street of The Friend of India, and author of the “Life of Dr. IVilson of ...

Vol. 2  p. 290 (Rel. 0.99)

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS . xi ..
P
Deacon Brodie . . . . . . . .
The First Interview in 1786: Deacon Brodie and
George Smith-‘ . . . . . . .
Sir George Lockhart of Carnwath . . . .
Robert Gourlay’s House . . . . . .
John Dowie’s Tavern . . . . . . .
John Dowie . . . . . . . .
Edinburgh. from St . Cuthbert’s to St . Giles’s . .
Interior of the Signet Library . . . . .
The Heart of Midlothian . . . Tofacrpq
Relics from the Tolbooth. now in the Scottish Antiquarian
Museum . . . . . . .
Lord Monboddo . . . . . . .
The Tolbooth . . . . . . . .
The Guard-house and Black Turnpike . . .
The City Guard-house . . . . . .
Three Captains of the City Guard . . . .
LochaberAxes of thecity Guard . . . .
Sed of St . Giles . . . . . . .
The Norman doorway. St . Giles’s. which was destrojed
towards the end of the eighteenth century . .
John Knox’s Pulpit. St . Giles’s . . . . .
The Lantern and Tower of St Giles’s Church . .
Plan of St . Giles’s Church. prior to the alterations in 1829
Jenny Geddes’ Stool . . . . . . .
Carved Centre Groin Stone or Boss . . . .
Interior of the High Church. St . Giles’s . . .
St . Giles’s Church in the present day . . . .
Grave of John Knox . . . . . . .
The City Cross . . . . . . . .
Creech’s Land . . . . . . . .
William Creech . . . . . . . .
The Old Parliament House . . . . . .
Great Hall. Parliament House . . To facepage
Parliament House . . . . . . .
Parliament House in the present day . . . .
Union Cellar . . . . . . . .
View from the Cowgate of the Buildings on the South
side of the Parliament Close. the highest buildings
Plan of the Parliament House and Law Courts . .
Ruins in Parliament Square after the Great Fire. in
in Edinburgh. 1794 . . . . . .
Interior of the Justiciary Court . . . . .
November. 1824 . . . . . . .
George Heriot’s Drinking Cup . . . . .
Sir William Forbes. of Pitsligo . . . . .
November. 1824 . . . . . . Ruins in the old Market Close after the Great Fire of
The Parliament Stairs . . . . . .
Dr . Archibald Pitcairn . . . . . .
Seal of Arnauld Lammius . . . . .
Cleriheugh’s Tavern . . . . . . .
The Town Council Chamber. Royal Exchange
To facepage
General View of the Ruins after the Great Fire of
November. 1824 . . . . . .
PAGE
Tal1y.stick. bearing date of 1692 . . . . 186
General Planof the RoyalExchange . . . 188
TheRoyalExchange . . . . . . 189
New Year’s Eve at the Tron Church . To faccpage 15-
Andrew Crosby . . . . . . . 192
The OldTronChurch . . . . . . 193
PlanofEdinburgh. fromSt.Giles’s toHackerston’s Wynd 197
The Nether Bow Port. from the Canongate . . 201
Edinburgh. from St . Giles’s Church to the Canongate . 205
Allan Ramsay . . . . . . . . z08
AllanRamsay’sShop. Highstreet . . . . mg
Knox’s Study . . . . . . . . 212
John Knox’s House . . . . Tofwepegr zq
Portrait and Autograph of John Knox . . . 213
Knox’s Bed-room . . . . . . . 216
Knox’s Sitting-room . . . . . . . 217
The Excise Office at the Nether Bow . . . . 220
The Nether Bow Port, from the High Street . . 221
House of Lord Advocate Stewart. at the foot of Advocates’
Close. west side . . . . . 223
William Chambers . . . . . . . 224
Robert Chambers . . . . . . . 224
Advocates’ Close . . . . . . . 225
Stamp OfficeClose . . . . . . . 229
Fleshmarket Close . . . . . . . 232
Susanna. Countessof Eglinton . . . . . 233
Lintels of Doorways in Dawney Douglas’s Tavern . 236
Mylne’s Square . . . . . . . . 237
St . Paul’s Chapel. Carrubber’s Close . . . . 240
House in High Street with memorial window. ‘‘ Heave
awa. lads, I’mno deidyet I ” . . . . 241
Ruins in the Old Assembly Close. after the Great Fire.
November. 1824 . . . . . . . 244
GeorgeBuchanan . . . . . . . 248
St . Cecilia’s Hall . . . . . . . 252
House of the Abbots of Melrose. Strichen’s Close . 256
Tiding Pin. from Lady Lovat’s House. Blackfriars Wynd 258
House of the Earls of Morton. Blackfriars Street . 260
Stone. showing the Armorial Bearings of Cardinal
Beaton. from his house. Blackfriars Wynd % . 261
. . . . . . Blackfriars Wynd * 257
Cardinal Beaton’sHouse . . . . . . 264
Edinburgh United Industrial School . . . . 265
Lintelof theDoor of theMint . . . . . 267
Theold ScottishMint . . . . . . 268
Kelicsof the old Scottish Mint . . . . . 269
Elphinstone Court . . . . . . . 272
The Earl of Selkirk’s qouse. Hyndford’s Close (South
view) . . . . . . . . 273
TheEarlofSelkirk’sHouse. Hyndford‘sClose(Westview) 276
Tweeddale House . 277
The Scokman Office . . . . . . . 284
Lord Cockburn Street and Back of the Royal Exchange
Tofiepap 285
Alexander Russel . . . . . . . 285
Interior of Trinity College Church. Jeffrey Street . 288
. . . . . . ... OF ILLUSTRATIONS . xi .. P Deacon Brodie . . . . . . . . The First Interview in 1786: Deacon Brodie ...

Vol. 2  p. 393 (Rel. 0.96)

Cowgate.] ANCIENT
Both these relics are now preserved in the
Museum of Antiquities.
An act of the Privy Council in 1616 describes
Edinburgh as infested by strong and idle vagabonds,
having their resorts “in some parts of the Cowgate,
Canongate, Potterrow, West Port, &c., where
they ordinarily convene every night, and pass their
time in all kind of not and filthy lechery, to the
offence and displeasure of God,” lying all day on
CLOSES. 241
Close in 1514; Todrig’s Wynd is mentioned in
1456, when Patrick Donald granted two merks
yearly from his tenement therein for repairing the
altar of St. Hubert, and in 1500 a bailie named
Todrig, was assaulted with drawn swords in his
own house by two men, who were taken to the Tron,
and had their hands stricken through.
Carrubber‘s Close was probably named from
“ William of Caribris,” one of the three bailies in
THE COWGATE, FROM THE PORT TO COLLEGE WYND, 1646. ( A f b cfdsthumay.)
17. The Cowgate ; 44, Peebles Wynd ; 45, Merlin’s Wynd ; 46, Niddry’s Wynd ; 47, Dickson’s Close : 50, Gnfs Wynd ; 5% St Mad5 w p d ;
h St Mary’s Wpd Suburbs ; I; Cov&e Port ; g, Si M a j s Wynd Port ; 53, The College Wynd ; 54. Robertson’s Wynd ; 55. High
School Wynd ; q, Lady Yeser‘s Kirk ; .r, The High School ; w, The College ; y, S i M;uy of the Fields, or the Kirk of Fields ; 25, The
Town Wall.
the causeway, extorting alms with “ shameful exclamations,”
to such an extent that passengers could
neither walk nor confer in the streets without being
impeded and pestered by them ; hence the magistrates
gave orders to expel them wholesale from the
city and keep it clear of them.
The Burgh Records throw some light on the
names of certain of the oldest closes-those running
between the central street and the Cowgate, as being
the residences or erections of old and influential
citizens. Thus Niddry’s Wynd is doubtless connected
with Robert Niddry, a magistrate in 1437 ;
Cant’s Close with Adam Cant, who was Dean of
Guild in 1450, though it is called Alexander Cant’s
79
1454, as doubtless Con’s Close was from John Con,
a wealthy flesher of 1508. William Foular’s Close
is mentioned in 1521, when Bessie Symourtoun
is ordered to be burned there on the cheeks and
banished for passing gear infected with the pest ;
and Mauchan’s Close was no doubt connected
with the name of John Mauchane, one of the bailies
in 1523; Lord Eorthwick’s Close is frequently
mentioned before 1530, and Francis Bell’s Close
occurs in the City Treasurer‘s Accounts, under date
1554. Liberton’s Wynd is mentioned in a charter
by James 111. in 1474, and the old protocol books of
the city refer to it frequently in the twelve years
preceding Flodden ; William Liberton’s heirs are ... ANCIENT Both these relics are now preserved in the Museum of Antiquities. An act of the Privy Council ...

Vol. 4  p. 241 (Rel. 0.91)

378 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Greyfirs Church.
King‘s Commissioner, the severity of these vile
persecutions was greatly lessened ; but in the northeast
corner of the burying-ground, the portion of it
long accorded as the place for the interment of
criminals, stands that grim memorial of suffering,
tears, and blood, known as the Martyrs’Monumznta
tall, pillared tablet, rising on a pedestal surmounted
by an entablature and pediment, and bearing the
following inscription :-
“ Halt, passenger ! take heed what you do see-
This tomb doth show for what some men did die ;
Here lies interred the dust of those who stood
’Gainst perjury, resisting unto blood ;
Adhering to the covenants and laws,
Establishing the same ; which was the cause
Their lives were sacrificed unto the lust
Of prelatists abjured ; though here their dust
Lies mix’t with murderers, and other crew.
Whom justice justly did to death pursue.
But. as for them no cause was to be found
Worthy of death ; but only they were found
Constant and stedfast, zealous, witnessing
For the prerogatives of Christ, their King ;
Which truths were sealed by famous Guthrie’s head,
And all along to Mr. Renwick’s blood.
They did endure the wrath of enemies :
Reproaches, torments, death, and injuries.
But yet they’re those who from such troubles came,
And now triumph in glory with the Lamb I ”
“From May 27, 1661, that the most noble
Marquis of Argyle was beheaded, to the 17th
February, 1688, that Mr. James Rcnwick suffered,
were one way or other murdered and destroyed fo1
the same cause about eighteen thousand, of whom
were executed at Edinburgh about a hundred ol
noblemen aud gentlemen, ministers, and othersnoble
martyrs for Jesus Christ. The most of them
lie here.”
According to the Edinburgh Courant of 1728
this tomb was repaired in that year, and there was
added to it ‘‘ a compartment, on which is cut a
head and a hand on pikes, as emblems of theii
(the martyrs’) sufferings, betwixt which is to be engraved
a motto alluding to both.”
The old church had been without a bell till
1681, when the Town Council ordered one which
had been formerly used in the Tron church ta
be hung in its steeple, or tower, at the west end.
The latter was blown up on the 17th May, 1718,
by a quantity of gunpowder belonging to the city,
which was deposited there and exploded by acci.
dent.
As the expense of its repair was estimated at
A600 sterling, the Town Council resolved to add
instead, a new church at the west end of the old,
and in the same plain, ungainly, and heavy style of
architecture, with an octagonal porch projecting
under the great window, all of which was accord.
ingly done, and the edifice, since denominated the
New Greyfriars, was finished in 1721, at the expense
of A3,045 sterling.
In this process the oIder church was shortened
by a partition wall being erected at the second
pillar from the west, that both buildings should
be of equal length. Many men of eminence
have been incumbents here ; among them, Robert
Rollock, the first Principal of the University of
Edinburgh, and Principal Carstares, the friend of
William of Orange.
In 1733, Robert Wallace, D.D., author of “A
Dissertation on the Numbers of Mankind,” and
many other works, and one of the first projectors
of the Scottish Ministers’ Widows’ Fund, was appointed
one of the ministers of the Greyfriars, in
consequence of a sermon which he preached before
the Synod of Moffat, the tenor of which so pleased
Queen Caroline, when she read it, that she recommended
him to the patronage of the Earl of Islay,
then chief manager of Scottish affairs.
In 1736, however, he forfeited the favour of
Government by being one of the many clergymen
who refused to read from the pulpit the act
relative to the Porteops mob; but on the overthrow
of ,Walpole’s ministry, in 1742, he was
entrusted with the conduct of ecclesiastical affairs,
so far as related to crown presentations in Scotland
-a delicate duty, in which he continued to give
satisfaction to all. In 1744 Dr. Wallace was
commissioned as one of the royal chaplains in
Scotland, and in 1753 he published his ‘‘ Dissertation”’-
a work that is remarkable for the
curious mass of statistical information it contains,
and for its many ingenious speculations on the subject
of population, to one of which the peculiar
theories of the Rev. Mr. Malthus owed their origin.
Among many other philosophical publications,
he brought forth (‘ Various Prospects of Mankind,
Nature, and Providence,” in 1761, and died the
year after, on the 10th of July, leaving a son, who
is not unknown in Scottish literature.
But the most distinguished of the incumbents
was William Robertson, D.D., the eminent
historian, who was appointed to the Greyfriars in
1761, the same year in which, on the death of
Principal Goldie, he was elected Principal of the
University of Edinburgh, and whose father, the
Rev. William Robertson (a cadet of the Struan
family) was minister of the Old Greyfriars in 173 j.
Principal Robertson is so *well known by the
published memoirs of him, and by his many brilliant
literary works, that he requires little more
than mention here. “Scott, who from youth to ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Greyfirs Church. King‘s Commissioner, the severity of these vile persecutions was ...

Vol. 4  p. 378 (Rel. 0.91)

306 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Wardie.
In this district evidences have been found of the
luck,” and it sometimes came ; to propitiate him,
his moderate demands became, ere he died, an
established claim. Hence it would seem that now
to say to a crew at sea, ‘(John Brounger ’s in your
head-sheets,” or ‘‘ OR board of you,” is sufficient to
cause her crew to haul in the dredge, ship their
oars, and pull the boat thrice round in a circle, to
break the evil spell, and enough sometimes to make
the crew abandon work.
But apart from such fancies, the industrious
fishermen of Newhaven still possess the noble
qualities. ascribed to them by the historian of
Leith, in the days when old Dr. Johnston was
their pastor : “It was no sight of ordinary interest
to see the stem and weather-beaten faces of these
hardy seamen subdued by the influence of religious
feeling into an expression of deep reverence and
humility, before their God. Their devotion seemed
. - I mansion, pleasantly situated on the sea-shore, about
to have acquired an additional solemnity of character,
from a consciousness of the peculiarly
hazardous nature of their occupation, which,
throwing tKem immediately and sensibly on the
protection of their Creator every day of their lives,
had im5ued them with a deep sense of gratitude to
that Being, whose outstretched arm had conducted
their little bark in safety through a hundred storms.”
In the first years of the present century there
was a Newhaven stage, advertised daily to start
from William Bell’s coach-office, opposite the Tron
church, at ten am., three and eight p-m.
We need scarcely add, that Newhaven has long
been celebrated for the excellence and variety of
its fish dinne&, served up in more than one oldfashioned
inn, the best known of which was, perhaps,
near the foot of the slope called the Whale
Brae.
CHAPTER XXXVI.
WARDIE, TRINITY, AND GRANTON.
Wardie Muir-Human Remains Found-Banghalm Bower and Trinity Lodge-Christ Church, Trinity-Free Church, Granton Road-Piltoa
-Royston--Camline Park-Grantan-The Piers and Harbours-Morton’s Patent Slip.
WARDIE MUIR must once have been a wide, open,
and desolate space, extending from Inverleith and
Warriston to the shore of the Firth; and from
North Inverleith Mains, of old called Blaw Wearie,
on the west, to Bonnington on the east, traversed
by the narrow streamlet known as Anchorfield
Bum.
Now it is intersected by streets and roads,
studded with fine villas rich in gardens and teeming
with fertility; but how waste and desolate the
muiland must once have been, is evinced b i those
entries in the accounts of the Lord High Treasurer
of Scotland, with reference to firing ,Mons Meg,
in the days when royal salutes were sometimes
fired with shotted guns !
On the 3rd of July, 1558, when the Castle
batteries saluted in honour of the Dauphin’s marriage
with Queen Mary, Mons Meg was fired by
the express desire of the Queen Regent; the
pioneers were paid for ‘I their jaboris in mounting
Meg furth of her lair to be schote, and for finding
and carrying her bullet from Wardie Muir to the
Castell,” ten shillings Scots.
Wardie is fully two miles north from the Castle,
and near Granton.
native tribes. Several fragments of human remains
were discovered in 1846, along the coast of
Wardie, in excavating the foundations for a bridge
of the Granton Railway ; and during some earlier
operations for the same railway, on the 27th
September, 1844 a silver and a copper coin of
Philip 11. of Spain were found among a quantity
of huiiian bones, intermingled with sand and shells;
and these at the time were supposed to be a
memento of some great galleon of the Spanish
Armada, cast away upon the rocky coast,
In the beginning of the present century, and
before the roads to Queensferry and Granton
were constructed, the chief or only one in this
quarter was that which, between hedgerows and
trees, led to Trinity, and the principal mansions
near it were Bangholm Bower, called in the
Advertiser for 1789 “ the Farm of Bangholms,”
adjoining the lands of Wamston, and which was
offered for lease, with twelve acres of meadow,
“lying immediately westward of Canonmills Loch;’’
Lixmount House, in 1810 the residence of Farquharson
of that ilk and Invercauld; Trinity
Lodge, and one or two others. The latter is
described in the Advertiser for 1783 as a large ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Wardie. In this district evidences have been found of the luck,” and it sometimes ...

Vol. 6  p. 306 (Rel. 0.89)

the N ~ S , attracted by the dampness of the soil,
where for ages the artificial loch lay. A few feet
eastward of the tower there was found in the bank,
in 1820, a large coffin of thick fir containing three
skeletons, a male and two females, supposed to be
those of a man named Sinclair and his two sisters,
who were all drowned‘in the loch in 1628 for a
horrible crime.
Eastward of this tower of the 15th century are the
remains of a long, low archway, walled with rubble,
but arched with well-hewn stones, popularly known
as “the lion’s den,” and which has evidently formed
a portion of that secret escape or covered way
from the Castle (which no Scottish fortress was ever
without), the tradition concerning which is of general
and very ancient belief; and this idea has been still
further strengthened by the remains of a similar
subterranean passage being found below Brown’s
Close, on the Castle Hill. At the highest part of
the latter stood the ancient barrier gate of 1450,
separating the fortress from the city. This gate
was temporarily replaced on the occasion of the
visit of George IV, in 1822, and by an iron
chuaux de fdse-to isolate the 82nd Regiment and
garrison generally-during the prevalence of Asiatic
cholera, ten years subsequently.
There stood on the north side of the Castle
Hill an ancient church, some vestiges of which were
visible in Maitland‘s time, in 1753, and which he
supposed to have been dedicated to St, Andrew the
patron of Scotland, and which he had seen referred
to in a deed of gift of twenty merks yearly, Scottish
money, to the Trinity altar therein, by Alexander
Curor, Vicar of Livingstone, 20th December, 1488.
In June, 1754, when some workmen were levelling
this portion of the Castle Hill, they discovered a
subterranean chamber, fourteen feet square,
wherein lay a crowned image of the Virgin, hewn
of very white stone, two brass altar candlesticks,
some trinkets, and a few ancient Scottish and French
coins. By several remains of burnt matter and two
large cannon balls being also found there, this
edifice was supposed to have been demolished
durbg some of the sieges undergone by the Castle
since the invention of artillery. Andin December,
1849, when the Castle Hill was being excavated
for the new reservoir, several finely-carved stones
were found in what was understood to be the
foundation of this chapel or of Christ’s Church,
which was commenced there in 1637, and had
actually proceeded so far that Gordon of Rothiemay
shows it in his map with a high-pointed spire,
but it was abandoned, and its materials used in
the erection of the present church at the Tron.
Under all this were found those pre-historic human
remains referred to in our first chapter. This was
the site of the ancient water-house. It was not
until ~ 6 2 1 that the citizens discovered the necessity
for a regular supply of water beyond that which
the public wells with their watef-carriers afforded.
It cannot be supposed that the stagnant fluid of the
north and south lochs could be fit for general use,
yet, in 1583 and 1598, it was proposed to supply
the city from the latter. Eleven years after the
date above mentioned, Peter Brusche, a German
engineer, contracted to supply the city with water
from the lands of Comiston, in a leaden pipe of three
inches’ bore, for a gratuity of 650. By the year
1704 the increase of population rendered an additional
supply from Liberton and the Pkntland Hills
necessary. As years passed on the old water-house
proved quite inadequate to the wants of the city.
It was removed in 1849, and in its place now stands
the great reservoir, by which old and new Edinburgh
are alike supplied with water unexampled in
purity, and drawn chiefly from an artificial lake
in the Pentlands, nearly seven miles distant. On
the outside it is only one storey in height, with a
tower of 40 feet high; but within it has an area I 10
feet long, go broad, and 30 deep, containing two
millions of gallons ofwater, which can be distributed
through the entire city at the rate of 5,000 gallons
per minute,
Apart from the city, embosomed among treesand
though lower down than this reservoir, yet
perched high in air-upon the northern bank of the
Esplanade, stands the little octagonal villa of Allan
Ramsay, from the windows of which the poet would
enjoy an extensive view of all the fields, farms, and
tiny hamlets that lay beyond the loch below, with
the vast panorama beyond-the Firth of Forth,
with the hills of Fife and Stirling. “The sober
and industrious life of this exception to the race
of poets having resulted in a small competency,
he built this oddly-shaped house in his latter days,
designing to enjoy in it the Horatian quiet he had
so often eulogised in his verse. The story goes:
says Chambers in his ‘‘ Traditions,” “ that, showing
it soon after to the clever Patrick Lord Elibank,
with much fussy interest in its externals and accommodation,
he remarked that the vyags were already
at work on the subject-they likened it to a goosepie
(owing to the roundness of the shape). ‘ Indeed,
Allan,’ said his lordship, ‘now I see you in it I think
the wags are not far wrong.‘ ”
Ramsay, the author of the most perfect pastoral
poem in the whole scope of British literature, and
a song writer of great merit, was secretly a
Jacobite, though a regular attendant in St. Giles’s
Church. Opposed to the morose manners of his ... N ~ S , attracted by the dampness of the soil, where for ages the artificial loch lay. A few feet eastward of ...

Vol. 1  p. 82 (Rel. 0.82)

OLD AND NEW EDINEURGH. LSouth Bridge. 376
In 1837 he succeeded Professor Macvey Napier
as Librarian to the Signet Library ; and when the
new and noble library of the University was opened
he volunteered to arrange it, which he did with
all the ardour of a bibliomaniac. Hewas made
LL.D. of his native university in 1864, and is
believed to have edited and annotated fully 250
rare works on Scottish history and antiquities.
True to its old tradition, No. 49 is still a booksellefs
shop, held by the old firm of Ogle and
Murray.
In No. 98 of the Bridge Street are the Assay
Office and Goldsmith’s Hall, The former is open
on alternate days, when articles of gold and silver
that require to be guaranteed by the stamp of
genuineness, are sent in and assayed. The assay
master scrapes a small quantity of metal off each
article, and submits it to a test in order to ascertain
the quality. The duty charged here on each ounce
of gold plate is 17s. 6d., and on silver plate IS. 6d
One of the earliest incorporated trades of Edinburgh
was that of the hammermen, under which
were included the goldsmiths, who, in 1586, were
formed into a separate company. By the articles
of it, apprentices must serve for a term of seven
years, and masters are obliged to serve a regular
apprenticeship of three years or more to make
them more perfect in their trade. They were,
moreover, once bound to give the deacon of the
craft sufficient proof of their knowledge of metals,
and of their skill in the working thereof. By a
charter of James VI., all persons not of the corporation
are prohibited from exercising the trade of
a goldsmith within the liberties of Edinburgh.
King James VII. incorporated the company by
a charter, with additional powers for the regulation
of its trade. Those were granted, so it runs, “ because
the art and science of goldsmiths is exercised
in the city of Edinburgh, to which our subjects
frequently resort, because it is the seat of our
supreme Parliament, and of the other supreme
courts, and there are few goldsmiths in other
cities.”
In virtue of the powers conferred upon it, the
company, from the date of its formation, tested
and stamped all the plate and jewellery made in
Scotland. The first stamp adopted was the tipletowered
castle, or city arms. “In 1681,” says
Bremner, in his ‘‘ Industries of Scotland,” “a letter
representing the date was stamped on as well as
the castle. The letter A indicates that the article
bearing it was made in the year between the 29th
of September, 1681, and the same day in 1682 ;
the other letters of the alphabet, omitting j and
w, representing the succeeding twenty-three years.
Each piece bore, in addition to the castle and date
letter, the assay-master’s initials. Seven alphabets
of a different type have been exhausted in recording
the dates ; and the letter of the eighth alphabet,
for 1869, is an Egyptian capital M. In 1759 the
standard mark of a thistle was substituted for the
assay-master’s initials, and is still continued. In
1784 a ‘duty-mark’ was added, the form being
the head of the sovereign. The silver mace of.
the city of Edinburgh is dated 1617 ; the High
Church plate, 1643.”
The making of spoons and forks was at one
time an extensive branch of the silversmith trade
in Edinburgh ; but the profits were so small that
it has now passed almost entirely into the hands
of English manufacturers.
The erection of this bridge led to the formation of
Xunter’s Square and Hair Street, much about the
same time and in immediate conjunction with i t
The square and street (where the King’s pnntingoffice
was placed) were both named from Sir James
Hunter Blair, who was Provost of the city when
the bridge was commenced, but whose death at
Harrogate, in 1789, did not permit him to see
the fine1 completion of it.
Number 4 in this small square, the north side
of which is entirely formed by the Tron Church,
contains the old hall of the Merchant Company of
Edinburgh, which was formed in 1681.
But long previous to that year the merchants OF
the city formed themselves into a corporation,
called the guildry, from which, for many ages, the
magistrates were exclusively chosen ; and, by an
Act of Parliament passed in the reign of James
III., each of the incorporated trades in Edinburgh
was empowered to choose one of their number to
vote in the election of those who were to govern
the city, and this guildry was the parent of the
Merchant Company. “It was amidst some of the
most distressing things in our national histovhangings
of the poor ‘hill folk’ in the Grassmarket,
trying of the patriot Argyle for taking
the test-oath with an explanation, and so forththat
this company came into being. Its nativity
was further heralded by sundry other things of
a troublous kind affecting merchandise and its
practitioners.’’
The merchants of Edinburgh, according to Amot,
were erected into a bodp-corporate by royal charter,
dated 19th October, 1681, under the name of The
Company of Merchants of fhe Cig of Edinburgh.
By this charter they were empowered to choose a
Preses, who is called “ The Master,” with twelve
assistants, a treasurer, clerk, and officer. The
company were further empowered to purchase ... AND NEW EDINEURGH. LSouth Bridge. 376 In 1837 he succeeded Professor Macvey Napier as Librarian to the Signet ...

Vol. 2  p. 377 (Rel. 0.81)

18
secure lock was placed upon it for the same purpose.
In 1647 only three open thoroughfares are shown
OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. r.,anongate.
1695, he early exhibited great talent with profound
legal knowledge, and the mere enumeration of his I
but there once stood on its eastern side a stately
ald tenement, bearing the date 1614 with this pious
legend: I. TAKE. THE. LORD. JESUS. AS. MY. ONLV.
ALL. SUFFICIENT. P~RTION. TO. CONTENT. ME. This
was cut in massive Roman letters, and the house
was adorned by handsome dormer windows and
moulded stringcourses; but of the person who dwelt
therein no memory remains. And the same must
be said of the edifices in the closes called Morocco
and Logan’s, and several others.
Between these two lies Rae’s Close, .very dark and
narrow, leading only to a house with a back green,
beyond which can be seen the Calton Hill. In
the sixteenth century this alley was the only open
thoroughfare to the north between Leith Wynd
’
Kinloch’s mansion and that which adjoined itthe
abode of the Earls of Angus-were pulled
down about 1760, when New Street was built, “a
curious sample of fashionable modem improvement,
prior to the bold scheme of the New Town,”
and first called Young Street, according to Kincaid.
Though sorely faded and decayed, it still presents
a series of semi-aristocratic, detached, and not indigent
mansions of the plain form peculiar to the
time. Among its inhabitants were Lords Kames
and Railes, Sir Philip Ainslie, the Lady Betty
Anstruther, Christian Rarnsay daughter of the poet,
Dr. Young the eminent physician, and others,
Henry Home, Lord Kames, who was raised
to the bench in 1752, occupied a self-contained
to the north-one the Tolbooth Wynd-and all are
closed by arched gates in a wall bounding the
Canongate on the north, and lying parallel with a
long watercourse flowing away towards Craigentinnie,
and still extant.
Kinloch’s Close, described in 1856 as “short,
dark, and horrible,” took its name from Henry
Kinloch, a wealthy burgess of the‘ Canongate in
the days of Queen Mary, who committed to his
hospitality, in 1565, when she is said to have
acceded to the League of Bayonne, the French
. ambassadors M. de Rambouillet and Clernau,
who came on a mission from the Court of France.
Their ostensible visit, however, was more probably
to invest Darnley with the order of St. Michael.
They had come through England with a train of
thirty-six mounted gentlemen. After presenting
themselves before the king and queen at Holyrood,
according to the ‘‘ Diurnal of Occurrent$,”
they “there after depairtit to Heny Kynloches
lugeing in the Cannogait besyid Edinburgh.”
A few days after Darnley was solemnly invested
with the collar of St. Michael in the abbey church;
and on the I rth of February the ambassadors were
banqueted, and a masked ball y.as given, when
“ the Queenis Grace and all her Manes and ladies
were cZed in men’s appardy and each of them presented
a sword, “ brawlie and maist artificiallie
made a d embroiderit with gold, to the said ambassatour
and his gentlemen.” Next day they were
banqueted in the castle by the Earl of Mar, and
on the‘ next ensuing they took their departure for
France vid England.
works on law and history would fill a large page.
He was of a playful disposition, and fond of practical
jokes; but during the latter part oc his life
he entertained a nervous dread that he would outlive
his noble faculties, and was pleased to find
that by the rapid decay of his frame he would
escape that dire calamity; and he died, after a brief
illness, in 1782, in the eighty-seventh year of his
age. The great Dr. Hunter, of ‘the Tron church,
afterwards lived and died in this house.
Lord Hailes, to whom we have referred elsewhere,
resided during his latter years in New
Street; but prior to his promotion to the‘bench
he generally lived at New Hailes. His house,
No. 23, was latterly possessed by Mr. Ruthven, the
ingenious improver of the Ruthven printing-press.
Christian Ramsay, the daughter of “honest
Allan,” and so named from her mother, Christian
Ross,’lived for many years in New Street, She
was an amiable and kind-hearted woman, and
possessed something of her fatheis gift of verse.
In her seventy-fourth year she was thrown down
by a hackney-coach and had her leg broken ; yet
she recovered, and lived to be eighty-eight. Leading
a solitary life, she took a great fancy to cats,
and besides supporting many in her house, cosily
disposed of in bandboxes, she laid out food for
others around her house. “Not a word of obloquy
would she listen to against the species,” says the
author of “ Traditions of Edinburgh,” ‘‘ alleging,
when any wickedness of a cat was spoken 05 that
the animal must have acted under provocation,
for by nature, she asserted, they were hapless ... lock was placed upon it for the same purpose. In 1647 only three open thoroughfares are shown OLD AND ...

Vol. 3  p. 17 (Rel. 0.81)

The Cowgate.] THE CUNZIE NOOK. 267
dexter hand palmed, and in its palm an eye. In
the dexter canton, a saltire argent, under the imperial
crown, surmounted by a thistle j and in base
a castle argent, masoned sable, within a border,
charged with instruments used by the society. To
the surgeons. were added the apothecaries.
James IV., one of the greatest patrons of art and
science in his time, dabbled a little in surgery and
chemistry, and had an assistant, John the Leeche,
whom he brought from the Continent. Pitscottie
tells us that James was “ane singular guid chirurgione,”
and in his daily expense book, singular
entries occur in 1491, of payments made to people
to let him bleed them and pull their teeth :-
“Item, to ane fallow, because the King pullit
furtht his twtht, xviii shillings.
“Item, to Kynnard, ye barbour, for tua teith
drawin furtht of his hed be the King, xvci sh.”
The barbers were frequently refractory, and
brought the surgeons into the Court of Session t e
adjust rights, real or imagined. But after the union
of the latter with the apothecaries, they gave up
the barber craft, and were formed into one corporation
by an Act of Council, on the 25th February,
1657, as already mentioned in the account of
the old Royal College of Surgeons.
The first admitted after the change, was Christopher
Irving, recorded as ‘‘ ane free chmgone,”
without the usual words “and barber,” after his
name. He was physician to James VII., and from
him the Irvings of Castle Irving, in .Ireland, are
descended.
CHAPTER XXXIII.
THE SOCIETY.
The Candlemaker Row--The “ Cunzie Nook”-Tbe of Charles 1.-The Candlemakers’ Hall--The Afhk of Dr. Symons-The Society, IS+
Brown Square-Proposed Statue to George III., x~-Di&nguished Inhabitants-Si IsIay Campbell-Lard Glenlec-Haigof Beimerside
--Si John Lerlie-Miss Jeannie Elliot-Argyle Square-Origin of it-Dr. Hugh Bkit-The Sutties of that Ilk-Trades Maiden Hospital-
-Mint0 House and the Elliots-New Medical School-Baptist Church-Chambers Strect-Idustrial Museum of Sdence and Art-Its
Great Hall and adjoining Halls-Aim of the Architect-Contents and Models briefly glanced at-New Watt Institution and School of
ArtsPhrenoloEical Museum-New Free Tron Church-New Tiainiing College of the Church of Scotland-The Dental Hospita-The
.
Theatre ofvari.&s.
THE Candlemaker Row is simply the first portion
of the old way that led from the Grassmarket and
Cowgate-head, where Sir John Inglis resided in
1784, to the lands of Bnsto, and thence on to
Powburn ; and it was down this way that a portion
of the routed Flemings, with Guy of Namur at their
head, fled towards the Castle rock, after their
defeat on the Burghmuir in 1335.
In Charles I.’s time a close line of street with a
great open space behind occupied the whole of the
east side, from the Greyfriars Port to the Cowgatehead.
The west side was the boundary wall of the
churchyard, save at the foot, where two or three
houses appear in 1647, one of which, as the Cunzie
Nook, is no doubt that referred to by Wilson as
a curious little timber-fronted tenement, surmounted
with antique crow-steps ; an open gallery
projects in front, and rude little; shot-windows admit
the light to the decayed and gloomy chambers
therein.” This, we presume, to be the Cunzie Nook,
a place where the Mint had no doubt been estab
Cshed at some early period, possibly during some
of the strange proceedings in the Regency of Mary
of Guise, when the Lords of the Congregation
“past to Holyroodhous, and tuik and intromettit
With the ernis of the Cunzehous.”
On the west side, near the present entrance to
the churchyard of the Greyfriars, stands the hall of
the ancient Corporation of the Candlemakers, which
gave its name to the Row, with the arms of the
craft boldly cut over the doorway, on a large oblong
panel, and, beneath, their appropriate motto,
. Omnia man;jesfa Zuce.
Internally, the hall is subdivided into many residences,
smaller accommodation sufficing for the
fraternity in this age of gas, so that it exists little
more than in name. In 1847 the number of its
members amounted to only fhw, who met periodically
for various purposes, connected with the corporation
and its funds.
Edgar‘s plan shows, in the eighteenth century, the
close row of houses that existed along the whole of
the west side, from the Bristo Port to the foot, and
nearly till Forrest Road was opened up in a linewith
the central Meadow Walk.
Humble though this locality may seem now, Sir
James Dunbar, Bart., of Dum, rented No. ZI in
1810, latterly a carting office. In those days the
street was a place ‘of considerable bustle; the
Hawick dilligence started twice weekly from
Paterson’s Inn, a well-known hostel in its time, ... Cowgate.] THE CUNZIE NOOK. 267 dexter hand palmed, and in its palm an eye. In the dexter canton, a saltire ...

Vol. 4  p. 267 (Rel. 0.8)

28 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. Canongate.
the days that were no more. ‘* No funeral hearse,”
says Lockhart, “crept more leisurely than did his
landau up the Canongate ; and not a queer, tottering
gable but recalled to him some long-buried
memory of splendour or bloodshed, which, by a few
Most Noble Order of the Thistle, which he had
now [relerected, could not meet in St. Andrews’
church (z.e., the cathedral in Fife}, being demolished
in the Rebellion; and so it was necessary for them
to have this church, and the Provost of Edinburgh
SMOLLETT’S HOUSE, ST. JOHN’S STREET.
words, he set before the hearer in the reality of life.”
The Canongate church, a most unpicturesquelooking
edifice, of nameless style, with a species of
Doric porch, was built in 1688. The Abbey
chwh of Holyrood had hitherto been the parish
church of the Canongate, but in July, 1687, King
James VII. wrote to the Privy Council, that the
church of the Abbey ‘‘ was the chapel belonging to
his palace of Holyrood, and that the knights of the
was ordained to see the keys of it given to them.
After a long silence,” says Fountainhall, “the
Archbishop of Glasgow told that it was a mansal
and patrimonial church of the bishopric of Edinburgh,
and though the see was vacant, yet it
belonged not to the Provost to deliver the keys.”
Yet the congregation were ordered to seek
accommodation in Lady Yester’s church till other
could be found for them, and the Canongate ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. Canongate. the days that were no more. ‘* No funeral hearse,” says Lockhart, “crept ...

Vol. 3  p. 28 (Rel. 0.79)

3 99 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH.
. Stirling-Maxwell, Sir Wm., 11. 86,
. Stitchill, Laird of I. 169
.Stockbridge, 11. ;31, 188, 189, 1x1.
74 719 742 75, 78, 79, 8% 8% 83,
92,9ji chinamanufactory,III. 75
Stockbrig tlrae, 111. 71
.Stocks from the uld Canongate
lolbooth 11. *31
Stoddart, Provost. 11. 1 0 5 , 2 8 ~
Stone Cross The 111. '87
Stonefield, hrd,' I. 273, 11. 339,
Stonyhill House 111. 365, 366
Storm in Leith 'harbour, Terrible,
358, 111. 24
111. $7
111. 18a. 202
,Stowell ib;d I a 9
~ t r a c ~ Prdf. j o i n 111.14
.Straiton,'Colonel Chkles, 11. 243
.Straiton's Loch, 11. 347,
Strange phantasmagoria, A, I. 103
.Strathalkn Imprisonment of the
Viscount& I. 69
Strathmore Ikrd 11. 303, 111. rgz
.Strathnave:, Lord, 11. 17, 65
Street disturbances by boys, 11.259
Streets of Leith, Cleauslng and
lighting of the, 111. 194
Strjchen, Lord, 1. 254, 255, 257
Str!chen'h Close, I. 253, 254, 255
Strike among workmen, I h e first,
11.264,326
Struthers William . his quarrel
with Piof. Keid IiI. 10
-Stuart Abbot KoLert 11. 48
Stuart' an Provos; 11.279
Stuart: Lord james, li. 66,67,101,
.Stuart,LordRobert,lI.67,7q, 111.4
.Stuart of Grantully Sir George,
I. mzs~ (see Stewartj
S t u n Sir James I. 43
.Stuariof Fetterdim, Sir John, 11.
111. 174
'43
Duke of Lennox, 11.243
Stuart, Sir John, II. 318
Stuart, Esme, Lord DAubigneand
Stuart, Sir Robert, 1. 243
. h a r t of Dunearn, am-, I. 173,
Charles 11. 343
.Smart of balguise, David, Provost,
11.282
. S t u n Colonel 1.66 67 6g
stuart: ~mes iordAovbst,11.z8a
Stnart John Sobieski 11. 159
Stuarr)of Allanbank, Lady, 11. 89
Stuart, Lady Grace, I. 273
Stuart Lady Margaret, I. 35
. S t ~ $ s , Dr., " Sculptured Stones,'
181, 339. 3792 IT 1. 4 2 , 343
11. 99
the 11. *zzo
111,228
Suburbs of the West Part, Map 01
Succdth, Lord, 11. 344
Sugar House Close, The old, Leith
.Summerhall brewery, The, 111. 51
.Sumptuary laws of 1457 1 a8
Surgeon square, I. * 3L,' 383, II
Surgeons, Royal College Or, I. 383
.Surgeons and apothecaries, Unior
:Surgeons' Hall, 11. 330, 334, 335
'27, "75, 302, 303, 335
11. 300. 301. 302, 289
of the, 1. 382
".._
Sur:% Hospital, The, 11. zg6
.Surgical mstrument-maker, Thq
%me;, Earl of 11. 61, 62
Sutherland, Fail of, I. 237, 238, II
375, 111. 298; C o u n t s of, I
.Sutherland Duke of 11. 123
. .Sutherland: James, bkanist, I. 362
3.59, 364.362, 379
first 11. 263
238, 339 11. 35
363 Suttie, Sir George, 11. 272; Lady
'Sutton, Sir Thomas, I. 49; Ladj
:Swanston, 111. 326
Sweating Club The, 111.123
Sweeps, Strikdamoug, 11. 326
'Swift's Wynd 11. 242
swine in the L e t s , I. 27511.23
Swinton, John Lord, 11. z p
Swimon Lord 11. 35, 158 111.36,
Swinton( of Dhmdryan, 'Captain'
Swinton, Margaret (Si. W. Scott'r
11. 26
Dowager, 11. 274
111. 30
grand-aunt), Curious storyrelated
Sword formerly used for beheading
criminals 11. a31
Sydeserf, dishop of Galloway, Attack
on, I. 122
Sydney Smith, 11. 347
Sydserff, Sir Thoma5, 11.40
Syme, Geordie, the Dalkeith town-
Syme, Professor James, surgeon,
Symons, Dr., and the ruffian Boyd,
Symson, Andrew, the printer, 11.
by. 11. 244
piper, 11. 170
11.274, 359
11. 268
256 ; his house, 11. * a57
T
Tabernacle, Rev. James Haldane's,
Leith Walk 111. 158
Tailor, An enarprising, 11. 27r
axlors' Hall, The, 1. ajg, 240 I1
T;z5z,. 258, 31 ; ornamentaaj in:
scnptions, d. 258 ; the drama in
the 11.23 258
Tail/=. Thk. 11. 166
Tait LrchbLhop, 11.344, 111. 86
Tait)of Glencross, 11.
Tally-stickof 1692 1 '20886
Talmash of Helinaha;n, Sir Lionel. - .
11. 3'7
111.87 f 89, 95
11.74 ,
Tam 0' the Cowgate, 11. 259, 260,
Tanfihd Hall, Canonmills, 11. 146,
Tannahih, Robert, 11. 127
Tanner'sClose, II.226,227,229, a30
Tapestry Room, Holyrood Palace,
Tarbat, Viscount, 11. 353, 111. 307,
Tarbat Sir Jam- I. 151
Tarbet' Masterof'III. 214
Tas+'James and William, model-
Taverns, Demand for, in former
330 111. 83
3x0
lers, 11. 89
times, I. 255
Tax Ofice, The, 11. 123
Tavlor, the Water-wet, I. IW. 11. - . ,,. 73, 111. 183 237
Tea. First im&rtiltion of. 111. 276
Tei&mouth,'Lord, 11. 165, 212 '
Teind Court The 111. 83
Teller, Mrs.,'Smoliett's sister, 11.26
Telford, the engineer, 111. 63, 70
Templar Knights, Houses of the, I.
310,321, 11. "232
Templar lands I. 321
Temple Close 'I. ar, 11. 231
Temple Lands, Erassmarket, 11.
'232
Temple ofHealth 11. 242
Tenducci, the sinker, I. z51
Tennis Court The 11. 3 ' the
theatre attdhed thereto, Pi. 39:
40; Shakespeare at the, 11. 40,
other plays ib.
Tennis-court,'The old, Leith, 111.
Territorial Church, The, 11. 224
Terrot, Hishop, 11.198, rgg
Terry theactor, I. 350, 11. 26
Tevio;, Earl of, 111. 26
Teviot Row, 1.38,II. 323,326, 338,
344 345, 346, 356,358
%cleray, W. M., 11. 150
Thatch House, Portobello, 111. 145
Theatre of Varieties, 11. 176
Theatre Royal, I. 340 *349, 350,
351s 35% 11. 179. 953 158,
163 ; building of the, I. 341, 11.
25, 26 : riot in the, I. 346 ; the
last performance 1. 352 ; demo.
lition of the old bhding, 1. +953 ;
the present theatre 11. 178
Theatres, I. 83; Wktefield on, I.
340,341; royal patent for, I. 341 ;
the early performances I. 342
343 ; popularity of Mrs.'Siddou:
1.3457 346
238
Thicket Burn, The, 111.143
Thieves' Hole, The, I. 48
Thirlestane, Lord, I. 246, 111. x49,
Thirlestane Road, 111.46
Thistle Street, 11. 158, 159, 111.
Thomson, the poet, 11. 117, 127 ;
150, 339, 364
I10
his nephew, Craig the architect,
11. 117
Thornon, Alexander (" Ruffles "),
111.90
Thornon of Duddingston Sir
Thomas, 11. 316 ; Sir Willi&, ib.
Thornson, Rev. Andrew, 11. 126,
1357 175, 210 Thornson George musician I. 251
l'homsoi of Duhdingston: Rev.
John, the painter, 11. 89, p, 314,
111. 84
Thornson, John and Thomas, 11.347
Thornson, Thomas, I. 374 375,II.
Thornson, Dr. William 111. 27
Thornson's Green, I. 3;8, 11. 260
Thornson's Park 11. 338
Thorneybank, ?he, 11.218
Three battles in one day, 111. 351
Three Thorns of the Carlinwark, I.
Thnepland, Sir Stuart, I. 208 ; his
191
748 75
son. ib
Thizbikin The,,,[. *62
Tilting-ground &I the West Port,
Tihbie FAwler 111. 247
The. 11. 224
Tilts h d tournaments near the
Timber Bush,'or €%our&., 1 he, Leith
Calton Hill 11. 102 103.
111. a31
Timber-fronted houses in the Cowgate,
11. 239, qo
Timber trade, The Leith, 111. 231
Tinwald, Lord, I. 273
Tipperlinn hamlet, 111. 39
Tirlia, The, 11. 3rx
Tirling- ins I 271 I1 253 26 .
from fad; L&at'; house, hlaci!
friars Wynd, I. *258
Titiens Madame I. 35r
Tod, Sir Archibah, Provost, 11.280
Tod SirThomas Provost I1 279
T d i g ' s or Toddrick's Wynd, 11.
269, 111. 6 : incidents in, 11. 241
Tal s Close, I. 2,
Todshaugh, II? 15
Tolbooth, The Edinburgh, I. 40,42'
5% 597 701 95, 1 ~ ) 123-1381 157,
158, 175, P I , 219, 24% 11. 237,
2 8 246, 248, 062, 3% 323. 324,
111; 6 I, 136, 142, 156 186, 191
zz 247 277. its demblition and
re8;ildihg, 1: 124 146, 111. 7,
o p : records of thi, I. 127 ; relicri
of the, 1. * 129 ; view of the I.
133. 197, PLatc 5 : descripkon
of the, I. 134; its final demoli.
tion, ib.: attempted escape from,
1.383 ; executions at the, 11. 238
Tolbooth, The Canongate, 11. I, 2
Tolbooth Kirk The I. 129, 144
Tolbooth Stair: 11. ;3
T$booth, The Leith, 111. 179. 192,
!93.227, 228, 229, 235.277 ; im
orironers. 111. 220 : trooos ouar. . iered there, ib.; ';is deAol&iun,
111. 230: the new Tolbcoth ib.;
Queen Mary's letter to the &din.
burgh Town Council, 111. 228
Tulbooth, The new 11. 239
TolboothWynd If. *zo
Tolbooth Wynd, Le?i, 111. 166,
167, *zz5, 216 227 228 234, 246,
247, 25 , 273 f curhs'tablet on
the, 111 228, * 229
Tolcroce, 111.94
Toll Cross, 11. 346, 111. 30, 42
Tonnage of Leith, III.z75,~77,178
Toutine,The,George Street, 11.139
Toole, J. L., the actor 1. 351
Torphichen Lord I &o 21, 327
Torphin, P h a n d HiIk,'dI. 324
Torphine Hill 111. 113
Torthorwald, 'Murder ef Lord, I.
Tourhope Laird of I. 194
Toun-end' The 11.'13~
Touris ofinverieith, Family of, 11.
330 111. 947 3'01 3'7
Touriaments Chivalrous II.55,225
Tower, The, Portobello, i I I . 146
Tower of Jama V 11. 0, 73
Tower Street Ixiii I l l 244, 245
Tower Street Portdbello, 111. I48
Towers of Idverleith, George, 111.
195. 196
28, 29
Town Council The I. 157; their
visitation of 'the dniversity, 111.
15, 16
Town Guard, The, I. 38, 11. 341,
Town Hall, Leith, 111. 228, 043,
Town Hall, Portobello, 111. 148,
Tracquair, Sir James 11.71 111. 7
Trade despotism at I k t h i11. 1p0
TradeofLeith,Aglancea; the,III.
Trades' corporations of Leith, 111.
111. 191
244
* '53
289
Trades-Maiden Hospital, 11. 168,
"Traditions of Edinburgh," I. I%,
1187 225, 2591 263, 377,
Trained Bands, The Edinburgh, 11.
r+75,III. 192; theleith, 111.188
Training College of the Church of
Scotland 11. 176
Training institute of the Scottish
Episcopal Society, I. p
Trayuair, Charles Earl of, 11.270;
hard case of I. zm, 242, z98
Travelling in (he last century 1. 6
11. 22 ; by the Leith stage: 111:
15% '54
Treaty of Union, Unpopularity of
the I. 163 165' bribery of the
Scdttish mekkrs) of Parliament,
I. 163, 164
Tree, Miss M., actress, I. 3 o
Tria1,Theearlieyt Edinburgz, I. 256
Trials and executions for high
treamn, 11.23.5-238
Trinity, 111. 306, 307
Trinity Church, I. 214
Trinity Church, StockbridgeJII.70
Tr;tnity
Cullege Church, 1. *z88,
289, P r 303, *304, *305,
j4 31% 338, 34% 3592 362,
collegiate seals, I. *303: the
charter, 1. 303 ; provision for the
inmates, I. 307 ; ground plan, 1.
* 30s
Trinity Grove, 111. 307
Trinity Hospital,I. 290," 304,*305, a+, 339 *312r 362
Trinity Ouse, Leith, 111. 223, * 214, za6, 279 ; sculptured stone
in theeast wingof, 111. '223; its
earlyhistory, 111. 223
*2727 2737 301, 111. 55
11, 18
111.7;
3073
I. 74, 101, 234, 290, 379; old
Trinity Lcdge, 111. pz, 306
Tron Church, 1. 82, 187-191, zo+,
benefactions to thechurch I. 187,
188 ; the fire of 1824, I. 188-191 ;
New Year's Eve at the, Plafc 8 ;
the old Tron Church, I. *193.
111. 252
Tron, 'I he, Leith, 111. 238
Tron, The, I. 188, 219,298, 11. 62,
Trotter, the architect, 11. 95
Trunk's Close I. 2x0
Trustees' Acahemy, 111. 83, 84
Trustees' Hall, The, 11.84
Tucker's re rt on the condition of
Tulloch, Colonel Alexander, 111.
Turdulence of 'the High School
Turk's Close I. 121 282
Turnbull, D.'W. B.,'advocate, 11.
197, 198.
Turnbull of Airdrie, William, 111.
34
Turner Sir ames 11.31
Tweedhale, i a r l s Af, I. 63, 119, 278,
279, 11. 8, 286
Tweeddale, Marquis of, I. 214,278,
$32, 333, 11. 246; house of, 1.
Tweeddale's Close I. 278 280, 297
Tweedies, The fdmily df the, 1.
Twelve o Clock Coach, The, 111.
"Twooennv Custom." The. 11.
376,11.64309.I1I. 154.r9r1306;
Y', 3 5 111- 7
Leith, IIr187, 188
74. IS father 16.
boys, 11. 289
277, 281, 11. 246
'94. '95.
227, 282
'4 Eo'i;adows id Cinvem;ionT
Tyburn of Edinburgh, The, 111.38
Tynecastle toll 11. 218
Tytler, Tomb df Alexander, II.38b
111. ma, ~2 218
Tytler, Patric Fraser, Lord Woodhouselee,
11. 210
11. '161 ... 99 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. . Stirling-Maxwell, Sir Wm., 11. 86, . Stitchill, Laird of I. 169 .Stockbridge, 11. ...

Vol. 6  p. 390 (Rel. 0.79)

Kirk-of-Field.] BOTHWELL DENOUNCED. 7
of the Canongate to Bothwell’s lodging, near the
palace, at the gates of which they were again
challenged by the Archers of the Guard-a corps
which existed from 1562 to 1567-who asked “if
they knew what noise that was they heard a short
time before.” They replied that they did not.
Rushing to his house, Bothwell called for something
to drink, and throwing off his clothes, went
to bed.
Tidings that the house had been blown up and
the king slain spread fast through the startled
city, and George Hackett, a servant of the palace,
communicated these to Bothwell, whom he found
in “ane great effray pitch-black,” and excited.
Then with assumed coolness he inquired “what
was the matter ? ” On being distinctly informed,
he began to shout “Treason!” and on being
joined by the Earl of Huntley, he repaired at once
to the presence of the queen.
By dawn the whole area of the Kirk-of-Field
was crowded by citizens, who found that the three
servants who slept in the gallery were buried in the
ruins, out of which Nelson was dragged alive.
In Holyrood the queen kept her bed in a darkened
room, while a proclamation was issued, offering
the then tolerable sum of L2,ooo Scots to
any who would give information as to the perpetrators
of the crime. On the same day the body of
Darnley was brought to Holyrood Chapel, and
after being embalmed by Maistre Mastin Picauet,
‘ I ypothegar,” was interred on Saturday night, without
the presence of any of the nobles or officers
of state, except the Lord Justice Clerk Bellenden
and Sir James Traquair.
Bothwell was denounced as the murderer by a
paper fixed on the Tolbooth Gate. But though the
earl was ultimately brought to trial, no precisely
proper inquiry into the startling atrocity was made
by the officers of the Crown.
A bill fastened on the Tron Beam, declared
that the smith who furnished the false keys to the
king’s apartment would, on due security being
given, point out his employers ; and other placards,
on one of which were written the queen’s initials,
M.R., were posted elsewhere-manifestations of
public feeling that rendered Bothwell so furious
that he rode through the city at the head of a band
of his armed vassals, swearing that he “ would wash
his hands” in the blood of the authors, could he
but discover them ; and from that time forward he
watched all who approached him with a jealous
eye, and a hand on his dagger.
When that part of the city wall which immediately
adjoined the house of the Kirk-of-Field
was demolished in 1854, it was found to be five
feet thick, and contained among its rubble many
fragments of a Gothic church or other edifice, and
three cannon-balls, one of 24 pounds’ weight, were
found in it.
In the records of the Privy Council in 1599, we
find an order for denouncing and putting to the
horn Robert Balfour, Provost of the Kirk-of-Field,
for having failed to appear before the Lords, and
answer “ to sic thingis as sauld have been inquirit
of him at his cuming.” The Provost, brother of
the notorious Sir James, had been outlawed or forfeited
in 157 I, as there rested upon both the charge
of having been chief agents in the murder or
Darnley.
He was ultimately remitted and pardoned, and
this was ratified by Parliament in 1584, when he
and his posterity were allowed to enjoy all their
possessions,‘‘ providing alwayis that these presentis
be not extendit to repossess and restoir the said
Robert to bny ryt he has, or he may pretend, to ye
Provostrie of ye Kirk-of-Field, sumtym situat within
the libertie of ye burgh of Edinburgh.”
In this same year, 1584, the Town Council were
greatly excited by a serious affray that ensued at
the Kirk-of-Field Port, and to prevent the recurrence
of a similar disorder, ordained that on the
ringing of the alarm bell the inhabitants were all to
convene in their several quarters under their bailies,
“ in armour and good order.” And subsequently,
to prevent broils by night-walkers, they ordered
I‘ that at 10 o’clock fifty strokes would be given on
the great bell, after which none should be upon the
streets, under a penalty of Azo Scots, and imprisonment
during the town’s pleasure.” (“ Council
Records.”)
A fragment of ruin connected with the Kirk-of-
Field is shown as extant in 1647 in Gordon’s map,
near what is now the north-west corner of Drumrnond
Street, and close to the old University. A
group ot trees appear to the eastward, and a garden
to the iiorth.
(Tytler.) ... BOTHWELL DENOUNCED. 7 of the Canongate to Bothwell’s lodging, near the palace, at the gates of ...

Vol. 5  p. 7 (Rel. 0.78)

OLD LEITH STACF.. Leith Walk.]
VIEWS IN PORTOBELLO.
I, Ramsag h e ; n, The Established Church ; & High Street, looking eart; + Town Hall ; 5 Episcopalisn Church.
116 ... LEITH STACF.. Leith Walk.] VIEWS IN PORTOBELLO. I, Ramsag h e ; n, The Established Church ; & High ...

Vol. 5  p. 153 (Rel. 0.77)

190 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [The Great Fire.
while the weather changed rapidly ; the wind,
accompanied by rain, came in fierce and fitful
gusts, thus adding to the danger and harrowing
interest of the scene, which, from the great size of
the houses, had much in it that was wild and weird.
“ About five o’clock,’’ says Dr. James Browne, in
his “ Historical Sketch of Edinburgh,” “the fire
had proceeded so far downwards in the building
occupied by the Coura~rf office, that the upper part
of the front fell inwards with a dreadful crash, the
concussion driving the flames into the middle of
the street. By this time it had communicated with
the houses on the east side of the Old Fish Market
Close, which it burned down in succession ; while
that occupied by Mr. Abraham Thomson, bookbindet,
which had been destroyed a few months
previously by fire and re-built, was crushed in at
one extremity by the fall of the gable. In the Old
Assembly Close it was still more destructive ; the
whole west side, terminating with the .king’s old
Stationery Warehouse, and including the Old Assembly
Hall, then occupied as a warehouse by
Bell and Bradfute, booksellers, being entirely consumed.
These back tenements formed one of the
most massive, and certainly not the least remarkable,
piles of building in the ancient city, and in
former times were inhabited by persons of the
greatest distinction. At this period they presented
a most extraordinary spectacle. A great
part of the southern Zand fell to the ground ; but a
lofty and insulated pile of side wall, broken in the
centre, rested in its fall, so as to form one-half of
an immense pointed arch, and remained for several
days in this inclined position.
“By nine o’clock the steeple of the Tron Church
was discovered to be on fire ; the pyramid became
a mass of flame, the lead of the roof poured over
the masonry in molten streams, and the bell fell
With a crash, as we have narrated, but the church
was chiefly saved by a powerful engine belonging
to the Board of Ordnance. The fire was now
stopped; but the horror and dismay of the people
increased when, at ten that night, a new one broke
forth in the devoted Parliament Square, in the attic
floor of a tenement eleven storeys in height, overlooking
the Cowgate. As this house was far to
windward of the other fire, it was quite impossible
that one could have caused the other-a conclusion
which forced itself upon the minds of all, together
with the startling belief that some desperate incendiaries
had resolved to destroy the city ; while
many went about exclaiming that it was a special
punishment sent from Heaven upon the people for
their sins.’’ (Browne, p. 220; Courant of Nov. 18,
1824; &c.)
As the conflagration spread, St. Giles’s and the
Parliament Square resounded with dreadful echoes,
and the scene became more and more appalling,
from the enormous altitude of the buildings; all
efforts of the people were directed to saving the
Parliament House and the Law Courts, and by
five on the morning of Wednesday the scene is
said to have been unspeakably grand and terrific.
Since the English invasion under Hertford in
1544 no such blaze had been seen in the ancient
city. “ Spicular columns of flame shot up majestically
into the atmosphere, which assumed a lurid,
dusky, reddish hue ; dismay, daring, suspense,
fear, sat upon different countenances, intensely
expressive of their various emotions ; the bronzed
faces of the firemen shone momentarily from under
their caps as their heads were raised at each successive
stroke of the engines ; and the very element
by which they attempted to extinguish the conflagration
seemed itself a stream of liquid fire. The
County Hall at one time appeared like a palace of
light ; and the venerable steeple of St. Giles’s reared
itself amid the bright flames like a spectre awakened
to behold the fall and ruin of the devoted city.”
Among those who particularly distinguished themselves
on this terrible occasion were the Lord President,
Charles Hope of Granton ; the Lord Justice
Clerk, Boyle of Shewalton ; the Lord Advocate,
Sir Williani Rae of St. Catherine’s ; the Solicitor-
General, John Hope; the Dean of Faculty ; and
Mr. (afterwards Lord) Cockburn, the well-known
memorialist of his own times.
The Lord Advocate would seem to have been
the most active, and worked for some time at one
of the engines playing on the central tenement at
the head of the Old Assembly Close, thus exerting
himself to save the house in which he first saw the
light. All distinction of rank being lost now in
one common and generous anxiety, one of Sir
Wiiliam’s fellow-labourers at the engine gave him a
hearty slap on the back, exclaiming, at the same
time, “ Wee1 dune, my lord !I’
On the morning of Wednesday, though showers
of sleet and hail fell, the fire continued to rage with
fury in Conn’s Close, to which it had been communicated
by flying embers ; but there the ravages
of this unprecedented and calamitous conflagration
ended. The extent of the mischief done exceeded
all former example. Fronting the High Street
there were destroyed four tenements of six storeys
each, besides the underground storeys ; in Conn’s
Close, two timber-fronted “ lands,” of great antiquity
; in the Old Assembly Close, four houses of
seven storeys each ; in Borthwick’s Close, six great
tenements ; in the Old Fish Market Close, four of ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [The Great Fire. while the weather changed rapidly ; the wind, accompanied by rain, ...

Vol. 1  p. 190 (Rel. 0.77)

High Street. NIDDRY’S WYND. 245
to protect the powdered head of loftily-dressed
hair, when walking or driving, and it could be
folded back flat like the hood of a carriage ; they
also wore the capuchin or short cloak tippet,
reaching to the elbows, usually of silk. trimmed
with velvet or lace. In walking, they camed the
skirt of the long gown over one arm, a necessary
precaution in the wynds and closes of 1750, as
well as to display the rich petticoat below ; but on
.entering a room, the full train swept majestically
behind them ; and their stays were SO long, as to
touch the chair before and behind when seated.
The vast hoops proved a serious inconvenience
in the turnpike stairs of the Old Town, when, as
ladies had to tilt them up, it wa5 absolutely necessary
to have a fine show petticoat beneath; and
we are told that such ‘‘ care was taken of appear-
.ances, that even the gartxs were worn fine, being
either embroidered, or having gold or silver fringes
and tassels. , . . Plaids were worn by ladies to
cover their heads and muffle their faces when they
went into the street ; ” and we have already shown
how vain were the fulniinations of magistrates
.against the latter fzshion.
In 1733 the silk stockings worn by ladies and
gentlemen were so thick, and so heavily adorned
with gold and silver, that they could rarely be
washed perhaps more than once. The Scottish
ladies used enormous Dutch fans ; and all women
high and low ,wore prodigious busks.
Below the Old Assembly Close is one named
from the Covenant, that great national document
and solemn protest against interference with the
Teligion of a free people having been placed for
signature at a period after 1638 in an old mansion
long afterwards used as a tavern at the foot of
the alley.
Lower down we come to Bell’s Wynd, 146, High
Street, which contained another Assembly Room,
for the Edinburgh fashionables, removed thither, in
1758, to a more commodious hall, and there the
weekly reunions and other balls were held in the
season, until the erection of the new hall in George
Street.
Hair Street, and Hunter’s Square, which was built
in 1788, occasioned the removal of more than
one old alley that led down southward to the
Cowgate, among them were Marlin’s and Peebles’
Wynds, to which we shall refer when treating of
the North and South Bridges. The first tenement
of the former at the right corner, descending, marks
the site of Kennedy’s Close, on the first floor of
the first turnpike on the left hand, wherein George
Buchanan, the historian and poet, died in his 76th
year, on the morning of Friday the 28th of
September, 1582, and from whence he was borne
to his last home in the Greyfkiars’ churchyard.
The last weeks of his life were spent, it is alleged,
in the final correction of the proofs of his history,
equally remarkable for its pure Latinity and for its
partisan spirit. He survived its appearance only a
month.
When on his death-bed, finding that all the
money he had about him was insufficient to defray
the expense of his funeral, he ordered his servant
to divide it among the poor, adding “that if the
city did not choose to bury him they might let him
lie where he was.”
The site of his grave is now unknown, though a
“throchstone ” would seem to have marked it so
lately as 1710. A skull, believed to be that of
Buchanan, is preserved in the hluseum of the
University, and is so remarkably thin as to be
transparent; but the evidence in favour of the
tradition, though not conclusive, does not render
its truth improbable. From the Council Records
in 1701, it would seem that Buchanan’s gravestone
had sunk into the earth, and had gradually
been covered up.
In the En’inburph Magazine for 1788 we are told
that the areas of some of the demolished closes
westward of the Tron Church and facing Blair
Street, were exposed for sale in April, and that
‘‘ the first lot immediately west of the new opening
sold for _f;z,ooo, and that to the southward for
A1,500, being the upset price of both.”
Niddry’s Street, which opens eastward of the
South Bridge, occupies the site of Niddry’s Wynd,
an ancient thoroughfare, which bore an important
part in the history of the city. “ It is well known,”
says Wilson, “ that King James VI. was very condescending
in his favours to his loyal citizens of
Edinburgh, making no scruple, when the larder
of Holyrood grew lean, and the privy purse was
exhausted, to give up housekeeping for a time,
and honour one or other of the substantial burghers
of his capital with a visit of himself and household
; or when the straitened mansions within the
closes of old Edinburgh proved insufficient singly
to accommodate the hungry train of courtiers, he
would very considerately distribute his favours
through the whole length of tlie close ! ”
Thus from Moyse’s (or Moyses’) Memoirs, page
I 82, we learn that when James was troubled by the
Earl of Bothwell in January, 1591, and ordered
Sir James Sandilands to apprehend him, he, with
the Queen and Chancellor (and theirsuiteof course),
“withdrew themselves within the town of Edinburgh,
and lodged themselves in Nicol Edward’s
house, in Niddry’s Wynd, and the Chancellor in ... Street. NIDDRY’S WYND. 245 to protect the powdered head of loftily-dressed hair, when walking or driving, ...

Vol. 2  p. 245 (Rel. 0.71)

OLD AND NEW EDINEURGH. [South Bridge.
. . .~ 374
in 1765, and two ancient thoroughfares, the Wynds
of Marlin and Peebles, with the east side of
Niddry’s Wynd.
In Queen Mary’s time the corn-market was removed
from the corner of Marlin’s Wynd to the
, east end of the Grass-market, where it continued to
’ be held till the present century. This wynd led
to the poultry-market, and ran south from the
back of the Tron church to the Cowgate, and at the
time of its demolition contained many book shops
and stalls, the favourite lounge of all collectors of
rare volumes, and had connected with it a curious
legend, recorded by Maitland’s History in 1753.
John Marlin, a Frenchman, is said to have been
the first who was employed to pave or causeway
the High Street, and was so vain of his work that,
as a monument to bis memory, he requested to be
buried under it,’ and he was accordingly buried at
the head of the wynd, which from that time took
his name. The tradition was further supplemented
by the fact that till the demolition of the wynd, a
space in the pavement at that spot was always
marked by six flat stones in the form of a grave.
‘’ According to more authentic information,” says
Chambers, “the High Street was first paved in
1532, by John and Bartoulme Foliot, who appear
to have had nothing in common with this legendary
Marlin, except country. The grave of at least
Bartoulme Foliot is distinctly marked by a flat
monument in the chapel royal at Holyrood.”
The pavior’s name is perhaps not quite “ legendary”
after all, as in the accounts of the Lord High
Treasurer we have a sum stated as being paid to
John Merlyoune,” in 1542, for building a Register
House in the Castle of Edinburgh.
The father of Sir William Stirling, Eart., who
was Lord Provost of the city in 1792, and who
had the merit of being the architect of his own
fortunes, was a fishmonger at the head of the
wynd, where his sign, a large clumsy wooden
black bull, now preserved as a relic in the Museum
of Antiquities, was long a conspicuous object as it
projected over the narrow way.
, It was at the head of Peebles Wynd, the adjoining
thoroughfare, in 1598, that Robert Cathcart,
who ten years before had been with Eothwell,
when tlie latter slew Sir William Stewart in Blackfriars
Wynd, was slain by the son of the latter,
according to Birrel.
During the demolitions for the projected bridge
an ancient seal of block-tin was found, of which
an engraving is given in the GenfZeman’s Mugaazine
for 1788, which says: “ I t is supposed to
.be the arms of Arnof and is a specimen of the
,seals used for writings, imprkions of which were
directed to be given to the sheriffs’ clerks of the
different counties in Scotland in the time of Queen
blary.”
In digging the foundation of the central pier,
which was no less than twenty-two feet deep, many
coins of the three first English Edwards were found.
The old buildings, which were removed to make
room for this public work, were, according to Stark,
purchased at a trifling cost, their value being fixed
by the verdict of juries, while the areas on which they
stood were sold by the city for the erection of new
buildings on each side of the bridge for A30,ooo.
“It has been remarked,” he adds, “ that on this
occasion the ground sold higher in Edinburgh than
perhaps ever was known in any city, even in Rome,
during its most flourishing times. Some of the
areas sold at the rate of A96,ooo per statute acre ;
others at AIO~,OOO per ditto; and some even so
high as ~150,000 per acre.”
The foundation stone of the bridge was laid on
the 1st of August, 1785, by George Lord Haddo,
Grand Master Mason of Scotland, attended by the
brethren of all the lodges in town, and the magistrates
and council in their robes, who walked in
procession from the Parliament House, escorted
by the soldiers of the City Guard-those grim old
warriors, who, says Imd Cockburn, “ had muskets
and bayonets, but rarely used them.”
The bridge was carried on with uncommon dispatch,
and was open for foot-passengers on the 19th
of November, 1786, but only partially, for the author
above quoted mentions that when he first went to
the old High School, in 1787, he crossed the arches
upon planks. In the following year it was open for
carriages. It consists of nineteen arches. That
over the Cowgate is thirty-one feet high by thirty
wide; the others, namely, seven on the south and
eleven on the north, are concealed by the buildings
erected and forming it into a street. From the
plan and section published by the magistrates at
the time, it would appear that the descent from
Nicolscrn Street is one foot in twenty-two to the
south pier of the Cowgate arch ; and from thence
on the north, the ascent to the High Street is one foot
in twenty-eight. From the latter to the southern
end, where the town wall stood, extends South
Bridge Street, “in length 1,075 feet by fifty-five
wide,” says, Kincaid, “ including the pavement on
each side.”
The drst house built here was that numbered
as I, forming the corner building at the junction
with the High Street. It was erected by Mr.
James Cooper, a jeweller, who resided in the upper
flat, and died in ISIS.
Except at the central arch, which spans the ... AND NEW EDINEURGH. [South Bridge. . . .~ 374 in 1765, and two ancient thoroughfares, the Wynds of Marlin and ...

Vol. 2  p. 374 (Rel. 0.71)

Leith] MACKINTOSH OF BORLUM. 191
the further strengthened by the fact that the Speedy
Return, a Scottish ship, had been absent unusually
long, and the rumours regarding her fate were
very much akin to the confessions of the crew of
the Worcester.
A report of these circumstances having reached
the Privy Council, the arrest was ordered of Captain
Green and thirteen of his crew on charges of
piracy and murder. The evidence produced against
them would scarcely be held sufficient by a jury of
the present day to warrant a conviction; but the
Scots, in their justly inflamed and insulted spirit,
viewed the matter otherwise, and a sentence of
death was passed. This judgment rendered many
uneasy, as it might be an insuperable bar to the
union, and even lead to open strife, as the relations
in which the two countries stood to each other were
always precarious ; and even Macaulay admits “that
the two kingdoms could not possibly have continued
another year on the terms on which they had been
during the preceding century.” The Privy Council
were thus reluctant to put the sentence into execution,
and respited the fourteen Englishmen ; but
there arose from the people a cry for vengeance
which it was impossible to resist. On the day appointed
for the execution, the 11th of April, the
populace gathered h vast numbers at the. Cross
and in the Parliament Square ; they menaced the
Lords‘of the Council, from which the Lord Chancellor
chanced to pass in his coach. Some one
cried aloud that “ the prisoners had been reprieved.”
On this the fury of the people became boundless ;
they stopped at the Tron church the coach of the
Chancellor-the pitiful Far1 of Seafield-and
dragged him out of it, and had he not been rescued
and conveyed into Mylne Square by some friends,
would have slain him ; so, continues Arnot, it became
absolutely necessary to appease the enraged
multitude by the blood of the criminals. This was
but the fruit of the affairs of Darien and Glencoe.
Now the people for miles around were pouring
into the city, and it was known that beyond doubt
the luckless Englishmen would be tom from the
Tolbooth and put to a sudden death.
Thus the Council was compelled to yield, and
did so only in time, as thousands who had gathered
at Leith to see the execution were now adding to
those who filled the streets of the city, and at
eleven in the forenoon word came forth that three
would be hanged-namely, Captain Green, the first
mate Madder, and Simpson, the gunner.
According to Analecfu Scofica they were brought
forth into the seething masses, amid shouts and
execrations, under an escort of the Town Guard,
and marched on foot through the Canongate to the
Water Port of Leith, where a battalion of the Foot
Guards and a body of the Horse Guards were
drawn up. “ There was the greatest confluence of
people there that I ever saw in my life,” says
Wodrow; “for they cared not how far they were
off so be it they saw.”
The three were hanged upon a gibbet erected
within high-water mark, and the rest of the crew,
after being detained in prison till autumn, were set
at liberty; and it is said that there were afterwards
good reasons to believe that Captain Drummond,
whom they were accused of slaying on the high seas,
was alive in India after the fate of Green and his
two brother officers had been sealed. (Burton’s
‘’ Crim. Trials.”)
On the site of the present Custom House was
built the Fury (a line-of-battle ship, according tb
Lawson‘s “Gazetteer”) and the first of that rate
built in Scotland after the Union.
In I 7 I 2 the first census of Edinburgh and Leith
was taken, and both towns contained only about
48,000 souls.
The insurrection of 1715, under the Earl of
Mar, made Leith the arena of some exciting scenes.
The Earl declined to leave the vicinity of Perth
with his army, and could not co-operate with the
petty insurrection under Forster in the north of
England, as a fleet under Sir John Jennings, Admiral
of the White, including the RqaC Anm, Pew4
Phnix, Dover Custk, and other frigates, held the
Firth of Forth, and the King‘s troops under Argyle
were gathering in the southern Lowlands. But, as
it was essential that a detachment from Mar‘s army
should join General Forster, it was arranged that
2,500 Highlanders, under old Brigadier Mackintosh
of Borlum-one of the most gallant and resolute
spirits of the age-should attempt to elude the fleet
and reach the Lothians.
The brigadier took possession of all the boats
belonging to the numerous fisher villages on the
Fife coast, and as the gathering of such a fleet as
these, with the bustle of mooring and provisioning
them, was sure to reveal the object in view, a
clever trick was adopted to put all scouts on a false
scent.
All the boats not required by the brigadier he
sent to the neighbourhood of Burntisland, as if he
only waited to cross the Firth there, on which the
fleet left its anchorage and rather wantonly began
to cannonade the fort and craft in the harbour.
While the ships were thus fully occupied, Mackintosh,
dividing his troops in two columns, crossed the
water from Elie, Pittenweem, and Crail, twenty miles
eastward, on the nights of the 12th and 13thOctober,
without the loss of a single boat, and lwded ... MACKINTOSH OF BORLUM. 191 the further strengthened by the fact that the Speedy Return, a Scottish ship, ...

Vol. 5  p. 191 (Rel. 0.7)

Queen Street.] SIR JAMES GRANT OF GRANT. I57
own performance that he tumbled off his chair in a
fit of laughter.”
No. 62 Queen Street was inhabited by Lord
Jeffrey from 1802 till 1810. In the following year
it became the residence of Sir John Leslie, K.H.,
Professor of Mathematics in the University of
Edinburgh, who in 1800 invented the differential
thermometer, one of the most beautiful and delicate
instruments that inductive genius‘ ever contrived
as a help to experimental research ; and the
results of his inquiries concerning the nature and
laws of heat, in which he was so much aided by
this exquisite instrument, were published in 1804,
in his celebrated “Essay on the Nature and Propagation
of Heat.” Sir John Leslie was one of
those many self-made men who are peculiarly the
glory of Scotland, for he was the son of a poor
joiner in Largo, yet he attained to the highest
honours a university can bestow. In 1832, along
with Herschel, Brewster, Hams, Nichols, and others,
on the recommendation of Lord Brougham, he was
created a Knight of the Guelphic Order, but died
in the November of that year from an attack of
erysipelas.
No. 64 was, and is still, the town residence of
the Earls of Weniyss, but has had many other
tenants. Among others here resided ‘‘ Lang Sandy
Gordon? as he was named in those days of simple
and unassuming familiarity, the son of William,
second Earl of Aberdeen, who was admitted an
advocate in 1759, and became Stewart-depute of
Kirkcudbright in 1764. Twenty years afterwards
he was raised to the bench as Lord Rockville, and
resided long in the close which bore .that name on
the Castle Hill, and afterwards in Queen Street
He was remarkable for his manly beauty and
handsome figure. He was a member of the Crochallan
Club, and a great convivialist. Walking
down the High Street one day, when the pavement
was unsafe by ice, he fell, and broke his arm.
He was conveyed to Provost Elder‘s shop, opposite
the Tron church, where surgical aid was procured
and his arm dressed ; but, unfortunately, when his
friends were conveying him to his new home at
No. 64, one of the chairmen fell and overturned
the sedan in the street, which unsettled the splinting
of his lordship’s arm, and ultimately brought on
afever, of which he died on the 13th of March,
‘792.
No. 64 was afterwards occupied by Sir James
Grant, Bart., of Grant, usually known as “the
good Sir James.” His town house, with extensive
stable-offices, had previously been at the ,foot of
the Canongate, where it was advertised for sale
in 1797, as “ presently possessed by Professor
Stewart.” At a period when the extensive Highland
proprietors were driving whole colonies of
people from the abodes of their forefathers, and
compelling them to seek on distant shores that
shelter which was denied them on their own, and
“when absenteeism and the vices of courtly intrigue
and fashionable dissipation had sapped the
morality of too many of our landholders, Sir James
Grant escaped the contagion, and during a long
life was distingifished for the possession of those
virtues which are the surest bulwarks of the peace,
happiness, and strength of a country. Possessed
of extensive estates, and surrounded by a numerous
tenantry, his exertions seemed to be equally devoted
to the progressive improvement of the one
and the present comfort and enjoyment of the
other.” ’
Among his clau he raised two regiments of Highland
Fencibles within a few months of each other.
One was numbered as the 97th, or Strathspey
Regiment, 1,800 strong, and a portion of it joined
the 4nnd for service in the West Indies. Sir
James died at Castle Grant in 181 I.
No. 66, now offices, was occupied by Stewart of
Castle Stewart ; and in No. 68 lived George Joseph
Bell, Advocate, Professor of Law, and author of
“ Principles of the Law of Scotland.” No. 7 I, in
181 I, was the residence of Francis, Lord Napier,
who served in the American war under General.
Burgoyne, but left the army in 1789. He took a
leading part in many local affiirs, was Grand
Master Mason of Scotland, Colonel of the Hopetoun
Fencibles in 1793, Commissioner to the
General Assembly in 1802, and a member of the
Board of Trustees for the Encouragement of Scottish
Manufactures and Fisheries.
His prominently aquiline face and figure were
long remarkable in Edinburgh ; though, at a time
when gentlemen usually wore gaudy coloursfrequently
a crimson or purple coat, a green plush
vest, black breeches, and white stockings-when
not in uniform, he always dressed plainly, and with
the nicest attention to propriety. An anecdote of
his finical taste is thus given in Lockhart’s “Life
of Scott ” :-
“Lord and Lady Napier arrived at Castlemilk
(in Lanarkshire), with the intention of staying a
week, but next morning it was announced that a
circumstance had occurred which rendered it indispensable
for them to return without delay to
their own seat in Selkirkshire. It was impossible
for Lady Stewart to extract any further explanation
at the moment, but it afterwards turned out that
Lord Napier’s valet had committed the grievous
mistake of packing up a set of neckcloths which ... Street.] SIR JAMES GRANT OF GRANT. I57 own performance that he tumbled off his chair in a fit of ...

Vol. 3  p. 157 (Rel. 0.7)

The High Street.] THE HIGH STREET.
six storeys each ; in short, down as far as the Cowgate
nothing was to be seen but frightful heaps of
calcined and blackened ruins, with gaping windows
and piles of smoking rubbish.
In the Par!iament Square four double tenements
of from seven to eleven storeys also perished, and
the incessant cmsh of falling walls made the old
vicinity re-echo. Among other places of interest
destroyed here was the shop of Kay, the cancaturist,
always a great attraction to idlers.
During the whole of Thursday the authorities
were occupied in the perplexing task of .examining
the ruined edifices in the Parliament Square. These
being of enormous height and dreadfully shattered,
threatened, by their fall, destruction to everything
in their vicinity. One eleven-storeyed edifice presented
such a very striking, terrible, and dangerous
appearance, that it was proposed to batter it down
with cannon. On the next day the ruins were inspected
by Admiral Sir David Milne, and Captain
(afterwardssir Francis) Head of theRoyal Engineers,
an officer distinguished alike in war and In literature,
who gave in a professional report on the subject,
and to him the task of demolition was assigned.
’
In the meantime offers of assistance from Captain
Hope of H.M.S. BnX, then in Leith Roads,
were accepted, and his seamen, forty in number,
threw a line over the lofty southern gable above
Heron’s Court, but brought down only a small
portion Next day Captain Hope returned to the
attack, with iron cables, chains, and ropes, while
some sappers daringly undermined the eastern wall.
These were sprung, and, as had been predicted by
Captain Head, the enormous mass fell almost
perpendicularly to the grognd.
At the Tron Church, on the last night of every
year, there gathers a vast crowd, who watch with
patience and good-humour the hands of the illuminated
clock till they indicate one minute past
twelve, and then the New Year is welcomed in
with ringing cheers, joy, and hilarity. A general
shaking of hands and congratdlations ensue, and
one and all wish each other ‘‘ A happy New Year,
and mony 0’ them.” A busy hum pervades the older
parts of the city; bands of music and bagpipes
strike up in many a street and wynd; and, furnished
with egg-flip, whiskey, &c., thousands hasten off in
all directions to “first foot” friends and relations,
CHAPTER XXI.
THE HIGH STREET,
A Place for Brawling-First Paved and Lighted-The Meal and Flesh MarketsState of the Streets-Municipal Regulations 16th Century-
Tuleies-The Lairds of Ainh and Wemyss-The Tweedies of Drummelzier-A Mont- Quarrel-The Slaughter of Lord Tarthorwald-
-A Brawl in 1705-Attacking a Sedan Chair-Habits in Lhe Seventeenth Century-Abduction of Women and Girls-Sumptuary Law6
against Women.
BEFORE narrating the wondrous history of the many
quaint and ancient closes and wynds which diverged
of old, and some of which still diverge, from the
stately High Street, we shall treat of that venerable
thoroughfare itself-its gradual progress, changes,
and some of the stirring scenes that have been witnessed
from its windows.
Till so late as the era of building the Royal
Exchange Edinburgh had been without increase
or much alteration since King James VI. rode
forth for England in 1603. “The extended wall
erected in the memorable year 1513 still formed
the boundary of the city, with the exception of the
enclosure of the Highriggs. The ancient gates remained
kept under the care of jealous warders,
and nightly closed at an early hour ; even as when
the dreaded iiiroads of the Southron summoned
the Burgher Watch to guard their walls. At the
foot of the High Street, the lofty tower and spire
of the Nether Bow Port terminated the vista, surmounting
the old Temple Bar of Edinburgh, interposed
between the city and the ancient burgh of
Canongate.”
On this upward-sloping thoroughfare first rose
the rude huts of the Caledonians, by the side of
the wooded way that led to the Dun upon the rock
-when Pagan rites were celebrated at sunrise on
the bare scalp of Arthur‘s Seat-and destined
to become in future years “the King’s High
Street,” as it was exclusively named in writs and
charters, in so far as it extended from the Nether
Bow to the edifice named Creech’s Land, at the
east end of the Luckenbooths. “Here,” says a
writer, “ was the battle-ground of Scotland for
centuries, whereon private and party feuds, the
jealousies of nobles and burghers, and not a few of
the contests between the Crown and the people,
were settled at the sword.”
As a place for brawling it was proverbial ; and
thus it was that Colonel Munro, in “His Expedition
with the Worthy Scots Regiment called
Mackeyes,” levied in 1626, for service in Denmark ... High Street.] THE HIGH STREET. six storeys each ; in short, down as far as the Cowgate nothing was to be seen ...

Vol. 1  p. 191 (Rel. 0.7)

,204 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [High Street.
CHAPTER XXIIL
THE HIGH STREET (continuedJ.
The Black Turnpike-Bitter Receytion of Queen Mary-hmbie’s Bannrr-Mary in the Black Turnpike-The House of Fentonbarns-Its
Picturesque Appearance-The House of Bassandyne the Printer, 1574-“ tllshop’s Land,” Town House of Archbishop Spottiswood-Its
various Tenants-Sir Stuart Thriepland -The Town-house of the Hendersons of Fordel-The Lodging of the Earls of Crawford-The
First Shop of Allan Ramsay-The Religious Feeling of the People-Anmm House-The First Shop of Constable and Co.-Manners and
Millar, Booksellers.
ON the south side of this great thoroughfare
and immediately opposite to the City Guard House,
stood the famous Black Turnpike. It occupied
the ground westward of the Tron church, and
now left vacant as the entrance to Hunter’s Square,
It is described as a magnificent edifice by Maitland,
and one that, if not disfigured by one of those
timber fronts (of the days of James IV.), would be
the most sumptuous building perhaps in Edinburgh.
But, like many others, it had rather a painful
history. [See view, p. 136.1
“ A principal proprietor of this building,” says
Maitland, “has been pleased to show me a deed
wherein George Robertson of Lochart, burgess of
F,dinburgh, built the said tenement, which refutes
the idle story of its being built by Kenneth 111.”
The above-mentioned deed is dated Dec. 6, 1461,
and, in the year 1508, the same author relates that
James IV. empowered the Edinburghers to farm or
let the Burghmuir, which they immediately cleared
of wood; and in order to encourage people to
buy this wood, the Town Council enacted that all
persons might extend the fronts of their houses
seven feet into the street, whereby the High Street
was reduced fourteen feet in breadth, and the
appearance of the houses much injured.
There is evidence that in the 16th century the
Black Turnpike had belonged to George Crichton,
Bishop of Dunkeld, in 1527, and Lord Privy Seal.
In 1567 it was the town mansion of the provost of
the city, Sir Simon Preston of Craigmillar, Balgay,
and that ilk, ancestor of the Earls of Desmond in
Ireland. It was to this edifice that Mary Queen of
Scots was brought a prisoner, about nine in the
evening of Sunday the 15th of June, by the confederate
lords and their troops, after they violated
the treaty by which she surrendered to them at
Carberry Hill.
On the march towards the city the soldiers
treated Mary with the utmost insolence and indignity,
pouring upon her an unceasing torrent of
epithets the most opprobrious and revolting to a
female. Whichever way she turned an emblematic
banner of white taffety, representing the dead body
of the murdered Darnley, with the little king kneeling
beside it, was held up before her eyes, stretched
out between two spears. She wept; her young
heart was wrung with terrible anguish ; she uttered
the most mournful complaints, and could scarcely
be kept in her saddle. This celebrated but
obnoxious standard belonged to the band or
company of Captain Lambie, a hired soldier of the
Government, slain afterwards, in 1585, in a clan
battle on Johnston Moor. Instead of conveying
Mary to Holyrood, as Sir William Kirkaldy had
promised, in the name of the Lords, they led her
through the dark and narrow wynds of the crowded
city, surrounded by a fierce, bigoted, and petulant
mob, who loaded the air with hootings and insulting
cries. The innumerable windows of the lofty
houses, and the outside stair-heads -then the
distinguishing features of a Scottish street-were
crowded with spectators, who railed at her in
unison with the crowd below. Mary cried aloud
to all gentlemen, who in those days were easily
distinguished by the richness of their attire, and
superiority of their air-“ I am your queen, your
own native princess; oh, suffer me not to be
abused thus !” “ But alas for Scottish gallantry,
the age of chivalry had passed away!” says the
author of “ Kirkaldy’s Memoirs,” whose authorities
are Calderwood, Melville, and Balfour. ‘‘ Mary’s
face was pale from fear and grief; her eyes were
swollen with tears ; her auburn hair hung in disorder
about her shoulders ; her fair form was
poorly attired in a riding tunic; she was exhausted
with fatigue, and covered with the summer
dust of the roadway, agitated by the march of so
many men; in short, she was scarcely recognis
able; yet thus, like some vile criminal led to
execution, she was conducted to the house of Sir
Simon Preston of Craigmillar. The soldiers of
the Confederates were long of passing through the
gates; the crowd was so dense, and the streets
were so narrow, that they filed through, man
by man.”
At the Black Turnpike she was barbarously
thrust into a small stone chamber, only thirteen
feet square by eight high, and locked up like a
felon-she, the Queen of Scotland, the heiress of
England, and the dowager of France! It was
then ten o’clock ; the city was almost -dark, but
fierce tumult and noise reigned without
And this was the queen of whom the scholarly ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [High Street. CHAPTER XXIIL THE HIGH STREET (continuedJ. The Black Turnpike-Bitter ...

Vol. 2  p. 204 (Rel. 0.69)

302 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Leith Wynd.
In 1650 it was used as a hospital for the wounded
soldiers of General Leslie’s army, after his repulse
of Cromwell’s attack on Edinburgh. The building
was decorated with the city arms, and many carved
devices on the pediments of its dormer windows,
while above the doorway was the legend-GoD .
BLIS . THIS. WARK . 1619.
In February, 1696, Fountainhall reports a
’‘ Reduction pursued by the town of Edinburgh
against Sir William Binny (ex-Provost) and other
partners of the linen manufactory, in Paul’s Work,
of the tack set them in 1683. Insisted, that
this house was founded by Thos. Spence, Bishop
of Aberdeen, in the reign of James II., for discipline
acd training of idle vagabonds, and dedicated
to St. Paul; and by an Act of Council in 1626,
was destinate and mortified for educating boys in a
woollen manufactory ; and this tack had inverted
the original design, contrary to the sixth Act of
Parl. I 633, discharging the sacrilegious inversion of
all pious donations.” Sir William Binny, Knight,
was Provost of the city in 1675-6. It bearsa prominent
place in Rothiemay’s map, and stood partly
within the Leith Wynd Port. In 1779 it was occupied
by a Mr. Macdowal, “the present proprietor,”
says Arnot, “who carries on in it an extensive
manufacture of broad cloths, hardly inferior to the
English.” The whole edifice was swept away by
the operations of the North British Railway; and
two very ancient keys found on its site were
presented in 1849 to the Museum of Antiquities.
It was‘at the foot of this wynd that, in February,
1592, John Graham, a Lord of Session, was slain
in open day, by Sir James Sandilands of Calder,
and others, not one of whom was ever tried or
punished for the outrage.
By an Act of the seventh Parliament of James
V., passed in 1540, the magistrates were ordained
to warn all proprietors of houses on the west side
of Leith Wynd that were ruinous, to repair or rebuild
them within a year and a day, or to sell the
property to those who could do so; and if no one
would buy them, it was lawful for the said magistrates
to cast down the buildings, “and with the
stuffe and stanes thereof, bigge ane honest substantious
wall, fra the Porte of the Nether-bowto
the Trinity College ; and it shall not be lawful in
tyme cumming, to any manner of person to persew
them, nor their successoures therefore. . . . . And
because the east side of the said wynd pertains to
the Abbot and Convente of Holyrude House, it is
ordained that the baillies of the Canongate garre
siklike be done upon the said east side,” &c.
The line ot this wall on the west side is distinctly
.
shown in Rothiemay’s map of 1647, and also in
Edgar’s plan of Edinburgh. In both the east side
presents a row of closely-built houses, extending
from the head of the Canongate to the site of the
Leith Wynd Port, at Paul’s Work.
In January, 1650, “John Wilsone, tailyour, in
St. Marie Wynd, and John Sinclere, dag-maker
(i.e., pistol-maker) in Leith FTynd,” were punished
as false witnesses, in a plea between James Anderson,
merchant in Calder, and John Rob in Easter
Duddingston, for which they were sentenced by the
Lords in Council and Session to be set upon the
Tron, with a placard announcing their crime to the
people pinned on the breast of each, and to have
thair eares nailed to the Trone, be the space of
ane hour.”
On the Leith Wynd Port, as on others, the
quarters of criminals were displayed. In September,
1672, the Depute of Gilbert Earl of
Errol (High Constable of Scotland) sentenced
James Johnstone, violer, who had stabbed his wife,
to be hanged, ‘‘ and to have his right hand, which
gave the stroak, cut off, and affixed upon Leithwind
Port, and ordained the magistrats of Edinburgh
to cause put the sentence to execution upon
the 9th of that month.”
In February, 1854, the wall of James the Fifth‘s
time, on the west side of the wynd gave way, and
a vast portion of it, which was about twenty feet
high and four feet thick, fell with a dreadful crash,
smashing in the doors and windows on the oppm
site side, and blocking the whole of the steep
narrow thoroughfare, and burying in its dibris four
children, two of whom were killed on the instant.
and two frightfully mangled.
Its fall was supposed to have been occasioned
by a new wall, seven feet in height, raised upon
its outer verge, to form the outer platform in front
of a building known as St. Andrew’s Hall, and
afterwards the Training Institute of the Scottish
Episcopal Society.
As St. Mary’s Street, which lies in a line with
this wynd, is in a direct line also from the Pleasance,
to render the whole thoroughfare more completely
available, it was deemed necessary by the
Improvement Trustees to make alterations in Leith
Wynd, by forming Jeffrey Street, which takes a,
semccircular sweep, from the head of the Canongate
behind John Knox’s house and church,
onwards to the southern end of the North Bridge.
Thus the whole of the west side of Leith Wynd
and its south end have disappeared in these operations.
One large tenement of great antiquity, and
known as the cc Happy Land,” long the haunt of
the most lawless characters, has disappeared, and ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Leith Wynd. In 1650 it was used as a hospital for the wounded soldiers of General ...

Vol. 2  p. 302 (Rel. 0.67)

196 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGR, [High Street.
Torthorwald could defend himself, ran him through
the body, and slew him on the spot.
Stewart fled from the city, and of him we hear
no more ; but the Privy Council niet twice to consider
what should be done now, for all the Douglases
were taking arms to attack the Stewarts of
Ochiltree. Hence the Council issued imperative
orders that the Earl of Morton, James Commendator
of Melrose, Sir George and Sir Archibald
Douglas his uncles, William Douglas younger of
Drumlanrig, Archibald Uouglas of Tofts, Sir James
Dundas of Arniston, and others, who were breathing
vengeance, should keep within the doors of
their dwellings, orders to the same effect being
issued to Lord Ochiltree and all his friends.
“ There is a remarkable connection of murders
recalled by this shocking transaction,” says a historian.
‘‘ Not only do we ascend to Torthorwald’s
slaughter of Stewart in 1596, and Stewart’s deadly
prosecution of Morton to the scaffold in 1581 ; but
William Stewart was the son of Sir William Stewart
who was slain by the Earl of Bothwell in the Blackfriars
Wynd in 1588.”
A carved marble slab in the church of Holyrood,
between two pillars on the north side, still marks
the grave of the first lord, who took his title from
the lonely tower of Torthonvald on the green brae,
between Lockerbie and Dumfries. It marks also
the grave of his wife, Elizabeth Carlyle of that ilk,
and bears the arms of the house of Douglas,
quartered with those of Carlyle and Torthorwald,
namely, beneath a ch2f charged with three pellets,
a saltire proper, and the crest, a star, with the inscription
:-
“ Heir lyis ye nobil and poten Lord Jarnes Dovglas, Lord
of Cairlell and Torthorall, vlm maned Daime Eliezabeth
Cairlell, air and heretrix yalof; vha vas slaine in Edinburghe
ye xiiii. day of Ivly, in ye zeier of God 1608-vas slain in
48 ze.
The guide daily reads this epitaph to hundreds
of visitors ; but few know the series of tragedies of
which that slab is the closing record.
In the year 1705, Archibald Houston, Writer to
the Signet in Edinburgh, was slain in the High
Street. As factor for the estate of Braid, the property
of his nephew, he had incurred the anger of
Kennedy of Auchtyfardel, in Lanarkshire, by failing
to pay some portion of Bishop’s rents, and Houston
had been “put to the horn” foithis debt. On the
20th March, 1705, Kennedy and his two sons left
their residence in the Castle Hill, to go to the usual
promenade of the time, the vicinity of the Cross.
They met Houston, and used violent language, to
: which he was not slow in retorting. Then Gilbert
Kennedy, Auchtyfardel’s son, smote him on the
L. I. D. E. C.”
face, while the idlers flocked around them. Blows
with a cane were exchanged, on which Gilbert Kennedy
drew his sword, and, running Houston through
the body, gave him a mortal wound, of which he
died. He was outlawed, but in time returned
home, and succeeded to his father’s estate. According
to Wodrow’s “ Analecta,” he became morbidly
pious, and having exasperated thereby a
servant maid, she gave him some arsenic with his
breakfast of bread-and-milk, in 1730, and but for
the aid of a physician would have avenged the
slaughter gf Houston near the Market Cross in
1705.
One of the last brawls in which swords were
drawn in the High Street occurred in the same
year, when under strong external professions of
rigid ‘Sabbath observance and morose sanctity of
manner there prevailed much of secret debauchery,
that broke forth at times. On the evening of the
2nd of February there had assembled a party in
Edinburgh, whom drinking and excitement had so
far carried away that nothing less than a dance in
the open High Street would satisfy them. Among
the party were Ensign Fleming of the Scots
Brigade in the Dutch service, whose father, Sir
James Fleming, Knight, had been Lord Provost in
1681 ; Thomas Barnet, a gentleman of the Horse
Guards ; and John Galbraith, son of a merchant in
the city. The ten o’clock bell had been tolled in
the Tron spire, to warn all good citizens home;
and these gentlemen, with other bacchanals, were
in full frolic at a pzrt of the street where there was
no light save-such as might fall from the windows
of the houses, when a sedan chair, attended by two
footmen, one of whom bore a lantern, approached.
In the chair was no less a personage than David
Earl of Leven, General of the Scottish Ordzance,
and member of the Privy Council, proceeding on
his upward way to the Castle of which he was
governor. It was perilous work to meddle with
such a person in those times, but the ensign and his
friends were in too reckless a mood to think of
consequences; so when Galbraith, in his dance
reeled against one of the footmen, and was warned
off with an imprecation, Fleming and his friend of
the Guards said, “ It would be brave sport to overturn
the sedan in the mud.” At once they assailed
the earl’s servants, and smashed the lantern. His
lordship spoke indignantly from his chair ; then
drawing his sword, Fleming plunged it into one
of the footmen ; but he and the others were overpowered
and captured by the spectators.
The young “rufflers,” on learning the rank of
the man they had insulted, were naturally greatly
alarmed, and Fleming dreaded the loss of his corn
’ ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGR, [High Street. Torthorwald could defend himself, ran him through the body, and slew him ...

Vol. 2  p. 196 (Rel. 0.67)

170 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [St. Andrew Square.
old Scottish school. His habits were active, anc
he was fond of all invigorating sports. He wa
skilled as an archer, golfer, skater, bowler, ant
curler, and to several kindred associations of thosc
sports he and ol$ Dr. Duncan acted as secretarie!
for nearly half a century. For years old EbeI
Wilson, the bell-ringer of the Tron Church, had thc
reversion of his left-off cocked hats, which he wore
together with enormous shoe-buckles, till his deatl
in 1823. For years he and the Doctor had been thc
only men who wore the old dress, which the latte
retained till he too died, twelve years after.
No. 24 was the house of the famous millionaire
Gilbert Innes of Stowe.
The Scottish Equitable Assurance Society occu
pies No. 26. It was established in 1831, and war
incorporated by royal charter in 1838 and 1846
It is conducted on the principle of mutual as
surance, ranks a~ a first-class office, and has accumu
lated funds amounting to upwards of ~ 2 , 2 5 0 , 0 0 0
with branch offices in London, Dublin, Glasgow
and elsewhere.
No. 29 was in 1802 the house of Sir Patrick
Murray, Bart., of Ochtertyre, Baron of the Ex
chequer Court, who died in 1837. It is now thc
offices of the North British Investment Corn
PanYNo.
33, now a shop, was in 1784 the house oi
the Hon. Francis Charteris of Amisfield, afterwards
fifth Earl of Wemyss. He was well known during
his residence in Edinburgh as the particular patron
of “Old Geordie Syme,” the famous town-piper
of Dalkeith, and a retainer of the house of Buccleuch,
whose skill on the pipe caused him to be
much noticed by the great folk of his time. 01
Geordie, in his long yellow coat lined with red,
red plush breeches, white stockings, buckled shoes
and blue bonnet, there is an excellent portrait in
Kay. The earl died in 1808, and was succeeded
by his grandson, who also inherited the earldom
of March.
Nos. 34 and 35 were long occupied as Douglas’s
hotel, one of the most fashionable in the city, and
one which has been largely patronised by the royal
families of many countries, including the Empress
EugCnie when she came to Edinburgh, to avail
herself, we believe, of the professional skill of Sir
James Simpson. On that occasion Colonel Ewart
marched the 78th Regiment or Ross-shire Buffs,
recently returned from the wars of India, before
the hotel windows, with the band playing Padant
pour Za Syrie, on which the Empress came to
the balcony and repeatedly bowed and waved her
handkerchief to the Highlanders.
In this hotel Sir Walter Scott resided for a few
days after his return from Italy, and just before his
death at Abbotsford, in September, 1832.
No. 35 is now the new head office of the Scottish
Provident Institution, removed hither from No. 6.
It was originally the residence of Mr. Andrew
Crosbie, the advocate, a well-known character in
his time, who built it. He was the original of
Counsellor Pleydell in the novel of “ Guy Mannering.”
In 1754 Sir Philip Ainslie was the occupant of
No. 38. Born in 1728, he was the son of George
Ainslie, a Scottish merchant of Bordeaux, who,
having made a fortune, returned home in 1727,
and purchased the estate of Pilton, near Edinburgh.
Sir Philip’s youngest daughter, Louisa, became the
wife of John Allan of Errol House, who resided in
No. 8. Sir Philip’s mother was a daughter of
William Morton of Gray.
His house is now, with No. 39, a portion of the
office of the British Linen Company’s Bank, the
origin and pro‘gress of which we have noticed in
our description of the Old Town. It stands immediately
south of the recess in front of the Royal
Bank, and was mainly built in 1851-2, after designs
by David Bryce, R.S.A., at a cost of about
~30,000. It has a three-storeyed front, above
sixty feet in height,.with an entablature set back
to the wall, and surmounted above the six-fluted
and projecting Corinthian columns by six statues,
each eight feet in height, representing Navigation,
Commerce, Manufacture, Art, Science, and Agricu!
ture; and it has a splendid cruciform tellingroom,
seventy-four feet by sixty-nine, lighted by a
most ornate cupola of stained glass, thirty feet in
diameter and fifty high. With its magnificent
columns of Peterhead granite, its busts of celebrated
Scotsmen, and its Roman tile pavement,
it is all in perfect keeping with the grandeur of
the external facade. This bank has about 1,080
partners.
Immediately adjoining, on the south, is the
National Bank of Scotland, presenting a flank to
West Register Street. It was enlarged backward
;n 1868, but is a plain almost unsightly building
mid its present surroundings. It is a bank of
:omparatively modem origin, having been estabished
on the zIst March, 1825. In terms of a
:ontract of co-partnership between and among the
iartners, the capit31 and stock of the company were
ixed at &,ooo,ooo, the paid-up portion of which
s ~I,OOO,OOO. In the royal charter granted to
he National Bank on the 5th August, 1831, a
ipecific declaration is made, that “ nothing in these
resents ” shall be construed to limit the responsiility
and liability of the individual partners of the ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [St. Andrew Square. old Scottish school. His habits were active, anc he was fond of ...

Vol. 3  p. 170 (Rel. 0.65)

&rnbers Street.] INDUSTRIAL MUSEUM. 275
metalhrgy and constructive materials, for ceramic
.and vitreous manufactures, the decorative arts,
guise of various animals, seek to aid 0; hinder its ' ascent.
textile manufactures, food, education, chemistry,
materia medica, photography, &c.
The whole floor is covered with articles illustrative
of the arts of construction, such as products
.of the clay-fields, fire and brick clays, and terra-
-cottas. Cements and artificial stones stand next
in order, followed by illustrations of the mode of
quarrying real stone ; adjoining these are stones
dressed for building purposes, and others carved
for ornamental uses.
Oriental stone carving is illustrated by a set of
magnificent plaster casts from one of the- most
famous gates of Delhi, made by order of the
Indian Government. The sanitary appliances used
in building are likewise exhibited here ; also slate
.and its uses, with materials for surface decorations,
.and woods for house timber and furniture.
Among the more prominent objects are large
.models of Scottish lighthouses, presented by the
Commissioners of Northern Lights, of St. Peter's at
Rome, St Paul's at London, and the Bourse in
Berlin, together with a singularly elegant carton-
.pierre ceiling ornament, and finely designed mantelpiece,
that were originally prepared for Montagu
House.
In the centre of the hall are some beautiful
.specimens of large guns and breechloading fieldpieces,
with balls and shells, and a fine model of
-the bridge over the Beulah in Westmoreland.
A hall devoted to the exhibition of flint and clay
products, and illustrations of glass and pottery, is
in the angle behind the great and east saloons.
'The art Potteries of Lambeth are here represented
by beautiful vases and plaques, and other articles
in the style of old Flemish stoneware. There are
.also fine examples of the Frenchfuiencr, by Deck
-of Paris, including a splendid dish painted by
Anker, and very interesting samples of Persian
-pottery as old as t b fourteenth century.
There is a magnificent collection of Venetian
.glass, comprising nearly 400 pieces, made by the
Abbot Zanetti of Murano, in Lombardy; while
modern mosaic work is exemplified by a beautiful
,reredos by Salviati, representing the Last Supper.
The beauty of ancient tile work is here exhibited
in some exquisite fragments from Constantinople,
These formed, originally, part of the
.several decorations of the mosque of Broussa, in
Anatolia, which was destroyed by an earthquake.
In rich blue on a white ground they display a
variety of curious conceptions, one of which represents
the human soul shooting aloft as a tall
=cypress tree, while good and evil spirits, under the
Near these are placed, first, illustrations of colliery
work, then of metallurgical operations, and lastly,
the manufacture of metals. The first, or lower
gallery of this hall, contains specimens of the arts
in connection with clothing, and the textile fabrics
generally and their processes ; wood, silk, cotton,
hemp, linen, jute, felt, silk, and straw-hat making,
leather, fur, and also manufactures from bone, ivory,
horn, tortoise-shell, feathers, hair-gut, gutta-percha,
india-rubber, &c. ; and the upper gallery contains
the collection illustrative of chemistry, the chemical
arts, materia medica, and philosophical instruments.
The department of machinery contains a speci
men, presented by the inventor. of Lister's wool
combing machine, which, by providing the means
of combing long wools mechanically, effected an
enormous change in the worsted trade of Yorkshire.
*
In the front of the east wing is the lecture
room, having accommodation for 800 sitters
Above it is a large apartment, seventy feet in
length by fifty broad, containing a fine display of
miner'als and fossils. One of the most interesting
features in this department is the large and valuable
collection of fossils which belonged to Hugh
Miller.
The ethnological specimens are ranged in hahdsome
cases around the walls. The natural his.
tor). hall contains on its ground floor a general
collection of mammalia, including a complete
grouping of British animals. The first gallery
contains an ample collection of birds and shells,
&c; the upper gallery, reptiles and fishes. In
the hall is suspended the skeleton of a whale
seventy-nine feet in length.
On the north side of Chambers Street is the new
Watt Institution and School of Arts, erected in
lieu of that of which we have already given a history
in Adam Square. (VoL I., pp. 379, 380.) It was
erected in 1872-3 from designs by David Rhind,
and is two storeys in height, with a pavilion at
its west end, and above its entrance porch the
handsome statue of James Watt which stood in
the demolished square.
Beside this institution stands the Phrenological
Museum, on the north side, forming a conjoint
building With it, and containing a carefully assorted
collection of human skulls some of them being of
great antiquity. It was formerly in Surgeon Square,
High School Yard.
The new Free Tron Church stands here, nearly
Sec "Great Industries of Great Britain." VoL I., pp. 107-8;
II., b ... Street.] INDUSTRIAL MUSEUM. 275 metalhrgy and constructive materials, for ceramic .and vitreous ...

Vol. 4  p. 275 (Rel. 0.65)

Tine Lawomarket.1 MAJOR SOMERVILLE. 9s
visitor could be fully visCd before admission was
accorded. In many other instances the entrances
to the turnpike stairs had loopholes for arrows or
musketry, and the archways to the closes and
wynds had single and sometimes double gates, the
great hooks of which still remain in some places,
and on which these were last hung in 1745, prior
to the occupation of the city by the Highlanders.
The Lawnmarket was bounded on the west by
the Butter Tron, or Weigh-house, and on the east
by the Tolbooth, which adjoined St. Giles’s, thus
forming in earlier times the greatest open space,
save the Grassmarket, within the walls. The Weighhouse,
built on ground which was granted to the
citizens by David II., in 1352, was a clumsy and
hideous edifice, rebuilt in 1660, on the site of the
previous building, which Gordon of Rothiemay, in
his map of 1647, shows to have been rather an
ornate edifice, two storeys in height, with a double
#outside stair on the south side, and a steeple and
vane at the east end, above an archway, where
enormous quantities of butter and cheese were
continually being disposed of.
In 1640 the Lawnmarket was the scene of a
remarkable single combat, of which we have a very
clearly-detailed account in ‘‘ The Memoirs of the
Somervilles.” In that year, when Major Somerville
of Drum commanded the garrison of Covenanting
troops in Edinburgh Castle, a Captain
Crawford, who, though not one of his officers,
deemed himself privileged to enter the fortress at
all times, walked up to the gates one morning, and,
on finding them closed, somewhat peremptorily
demanded admission. The sentinel within told
him that he must ‘( before entering, acquaint Major
Somerville with his name and rank.” To this
Crawford replied, furiously, “ Your major is neither
a soldier nor a gentleman, and if he were without
this gate, and at a distance from his guards, I would
tell him that he was a pitiful cullion to boot! ”
The irritated captain was retiring down the
Castle Hill, when he was overtaken, rapier in hand,
by Major Somerville, to whom the sentinel had
found means to convey the obnoxious message
with mischievous precision.
“Sir,” said the major, “you must permit me to
accompany you a little way, and then you shall
know more of my mind.” “ I will wait on you where
you please,” replied Crawford, grimly; and they
walked together in silence to the south side of the
Greyfriars churchyard, at all times a Ionely place.
” Nazi," said Somerville, unsheathing his sword,
“I am without the Castle gates and at a distance
from my guards. Draw and make good your
threat I ” Instead of defending himself like a man
of honour, Crawford took off his hat, and begged
pardon, on which Somerville jerked his long bowlhilted
rapier into its sheath, and said, with scorn,
(‘ You have neither the discretion of a gentleman,
nor the courage of a soldier ; begone for a coward
and fool, fit only for-Bedlam !” and he returned
tb the Castle, accompanied by his officers, who
had followed them to see the result of the quarrel.
It is said that Crawford had been offended at
not being invited to a banquet given in the Castle
by Somerville to old General Ruthven, on‘the
day after the latter surrendered. As great liberties
were taken with him after this in consequence of
his doubtful reputation for ’ courage, he resolved,
by satisfaction demanded in a public and desperate
manner, to retrieve his lost honour, or die in
seeking it. Thus, one forenoon, about eleven
o’clock,’ when the Major was on his way to visit
General Sir Alexander Leslie, and proceeding
down the spacious Lawnmarket, which at that hour
was always thronged with idlers, he was suddenly
confronted by Captain Crawford, who, unsheathing
both sword and dagger, exclaimed, ‘‘ If you be a
pretty man-draw f ” With a thick walking cane
recently presented to him by General Ruthven,
the Major parried his onset and then drew his
sword, which was a half-rapier slung in a shoulderbelt,
and attacked the Captain so briskly, that he
was forced. to fall back, pace by pace, fighting desperately,
from the middle of the Lawnmarket to the
goldsmiths’ booths, where Somerville struck him
down on the causeway by the iron pommel of his ‘
sword, and disarmed him. Several of Somerville’s
soldiers now came upon the scene, and by these
he would have been slain, had not the yictor protected
him; but for this assault upon & superior
officer he was thrown into prison, where he lay for
a year, heavily manacled, and in a wretched condition,
till Somerville’s wife,who resided at the Drum
House, near Gilmerton, and to whom he had Written
an imploring letter, procured his liberation.
Here in the Lawnmarket, in the lofty tenement
dated 1690, on the second floor,’ is the “shop”
where that venerable drug, called the “Grana .
Angelica,” but better known among the country
people as (‘Anderson’s Pills,” are sold. They
took their origin from a physician of the time
of Charles I., who gave them his name, and of
whom a long account‘ was given in the University
Magazine, and locally their fame lasted for nearly
250 years. From his daughter Lilias Anderson,
the patent, granted by James VII., came ‘‘tg
Thomas Weir, chirurgeon, in Edinburgh,” who left
the secret of preparing the pills to his daughter,
Mrs. Irving, who died in ~837, at the age of
. ... Lawomarket.1 MAJOR SOMERVILLE. 9s visitor could be fully visCd before admission was accorded. In many other ...

Vol. 1  p. 95 (Rel. 0.6)

and burned, and ‘‘ that ilk mail in Edinburgh have
his lumes (vents) full of watter in the nycht, under
pain of deid !” (I‘ Qiurnal.”) This gives us a graphic
idea of the city in the sixteenth century, and of the
High Street in particular, “with the majority of the
buildings on either side covered with thatch, encumbered
by piles of heather and other fuel
accumulated before each door for the use of the
inhabitants, and from amid these, we may add
the stately ecclesiastical edifices, and the substantial
mansions of the nobility, towering with all the
more imposing effect, in contrast to their homely
neighbourhood.”
Concerning these heather stacks we have the
following episode in “Moyse’s Memoirs :”--“On the
2nd December, 1584, a b.kxteis boy called Robert
Henderson (no doubt by the instigation of Satan)
desperately put some powder and a candle to his
father’s heather-stack, standing in a close opposite
the Tron, and burnt the same with his.father‘s
house, to the imminent hazard of burning the whole
Sown, for which, being apprehended most marvellously,
after his escaping out of town, he wus n~xt
day burnt pick at the cross of Edinburgh as an
example.”
There was still extant in 1850 a small fragment
.of Forrester’s Wynd, a beaded doorway in a ruined
wall, with the legend above it-
‘‘ O.F. OUR INHERITANCE, 1623.”
“In all the old houses in Edinburgh,” says
Amot, “it is remarkable that the superstition of
the time had guarded each with certain cabalistic
characters or talismans engraved upon its front.
These were generally composed of some texts of
Scripture, of the name of God, or perhaps an
emblematical representation of the crucifixion.”
Forrester’s Wynd probably took its name from
Sir Adam Forrester of Corstorphine, who was twice
chief magistrate of the city in the 14th century.
After the “Jenny Geddes” riot in St. Giles’s,
Guthrie, in his “Memoirs,” tells us of a mob, consisting
of some hundreds of women, whose place
.of rendezvous in 1637 was Forrester’s Wynd, and
who attacked Sydeserf, Bishop of Galloway, when
.on his way to the Privy Council, accompanied by
Francis Stewart, son of the Earl of Bothwell,
.“with such violence, that probably he had been
torn in pieces, if it had not been that the said
Francis, with the help of two pretty men that
attended him, rescued him out of their barbarous
hands, aud hurled him in at the door, holding back
the pursuers until those that were within shut the
door. Thereafter, the Provost and Bailies being
assembled in their council, those women beleaguered
them, and threatened to burn the house about their
ears, unless they did presently nominate two commissioners
for the town,” Src. Their cries were :
‘‘ God defend all thdse who will defend God’s cause!
God confound the service-book and all maintainers
thereof !”
From advertisements, it wonld appear that a
character who made some noise in his time, Peter
Williamson, ‘I from the other world,” as he called
himself, had a printer’s shop at the head of this
wynd in 1772. The victim of a system of kidnapping
encouraged by the magistrates of Aberdeen,
he had been c‘arried off in his boyhood to America,
and after almost unheard-of perils and adventures,
related in his autobiography, published in 1758, he
returned to Scotland, and obtained some small
damages from the then magistrates of his native
city, and settled in Edinburgh as a printer and
publisher, In 1776 he started The Scots Spy, published
every Friday, of which copies are now
extremely rare. He had the merit of establishing
the first penny post in Edinburgh, and also published
a ‘‘ Directory,” from his new shop in the
Luckenbooths, in 1784. He would appear for
these services to have received a small pension
from Government when it assumed his institution
of the penny post.
The other venerable alley referred to, Beith’s
Wynd, when greatly dilapidated by time, was nearly
destroyed by two fires, which occurred in 1786 and
1788. The former, on the 12th Decernher, broke
out near Henderson’s stairs, and raged with great
violence for man), hours, but by the assistance of
the Town Guard and others it was suppressed, yet
not before many families were burnt out. The
Parliament House and the Advocates’ Library
were both in imminent peril, and the danger appeared
so great, that the Court of Session did not
sit tha€ day, and preparations were made for the
speedy removal of all records. At the head of
Beith’s Wynd, in 1745, dwelt Andrew Maclure, a
writing-niaster, one of that corps of civic volunteers
who marched to oppose the Highlanders, but
which mysteriously melted away ere it left the West
Port. It was noted of the gallant Andrew, that
having made up his mind to die, he had affixed
a sheet of paper to his breast, whereon was written,
in large text-hand, “This is the body of Andrew
Maclure j let it be decently interred,” a notice that
was long a source of joke among the Jacobite
wits.
With this wynd, our account of the alleys in
connection with the Lawnmarket ends. We have
elsewhere referred to the once well-known Club
formed by the dwellers in the latter, chiefly woc!!en
He died in January, 1799. ... burned, and ‘‘ that ilk mail in Edinburgh have his lumes (vents) full of watter in the nycht, under pain of ...

Vol. 1  p. 122 (Rel. 0.6)

21% OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Nether Bow.
with cannon stone-shot in 1544, ere advancing
;against the Castle. “ They hauled their. cannons
up the High Street by force of men to the ButteI
Tron, and above,” says Calderwood, “ and hazarded
a shot against the fore entrie of the Castle (i.e.,
the port of the Spur). But the wheel and axle 01
.one of the English cannons was broken, and some
of their men slain by shot of ordnance out of the
Castle j so they left that rash enterprise.”
In 1571, during the struggle between Kirkaldy
.and the Regent Morton, this barrier gate played a
prominent part. According to the “Diurnal of
Qccurrents,” upon the nznd of August in that year,
the Regent and the lords who adhered against the
.authority of the Queen, finding that they were
totally excluded from the city, marched several
bands of soldiers from Leith, their head-quarters,
.and concealed them under cloud of night in the
I closes and houses adjoining the Nether Bow Port.
At five on the following morning, when it was
supposed that the night watch would be withdrawn,
six soldiers, disguised as millers, approached the
.gates, leading horses laden with sacks of meal,
which were to be thrown down as they entered, so
.as to preclude the rapid closing of them, and while
they attacked and cut down the warders, with those
weapon? which they wore under their disguise, the
.men in ambush were to rush out to storm the
-town, aided by a reserve, whom the sound of their
trumpets was to summon from Holyrood. “But
the eternal God,” says the quaint old journalist we
quote, “ knowing the cruel1 murther that wold have
beene done and committit vponn innocent poor personis
of the said burgh, wold not thole this interpryse
to tak successe; but evin quhen the said
meill was almaist at the port, and the said men of
war, stationed in clois headis, in readinesse to
enter at the back of the samyne it chanced that
a burgher of the Canongate, named Thomas Barrie,
passed out towards his hcuse in the then separate
burgh, and perceiving soldiers concealed on every
hand, he returned and gave the alarm, on which
the gate was at once barricaded, and the design of
the Regent and his adherents baffled.
This gate having become ruinous, the magis
trates in 1606, three years after James VI. went to
England, built a new one, of which many views are
preserved. It was a handsome building, and quite
enclosed the lower end of the High Street. The
arch, an ellipse, was in the centre, strengthened by
round towers and battlements on the eastern or
external front, and in the southern tower there was
a wicket for.foot passengers. On the inside of the
arch were the arms of the city. The whole building
was crenelated, and consisted of two lofty
storeys, having in the centre a handsome square
tower, terminated by ii pointed spire. It was
adorned by a statue of James VI., which was
thrown down and destroyed by order of Oliver
Cromwell, and had on it a Latin inscription, which
runs thus in English :-
“Watch towers and thundr’ng walls vain fences prove
No guards to monarchs like their people’s love.
Jacobus VL Rex, Anna Regina, 1606.”
This gate has been rendered remarkable in history
by the extra-judicial bill that passed the
House of Lords for razing it to theground, in consequence
of the Porteous mob, For a wonder, the
Scottish members made a stand in the matter, and
as the general Bill, when it came to the Commons,
was shorn of all its objectionable clauses, the
Nether Bow Port escaped.
In June, 1737, when the officials of Edinburgh,
who had been taken to London for examination
concerning the not, were returning, to accord them
a cordial reception the citizens rode out in great
troops to meet them, while for miles eastward the
road was lined by pedestrians. The Lord Provost,
Alexander Wilson, a modest man, eluded the ovation
by taking another route ; but the rest came in
triumph through the city, forming a procession of
imposing length, while bonfires blazed, all the bells
clanged and clashed as if a victory had been won
over England, and the gates of the Nether Bow
Port, which had been unhooked, were re-hung and
closed amid the wildest acclamation.
In 1760 the Common Council of London having
obtained an Act of Parliament to remove their city
gates, the magistrates of Edinburgh followed suit
without any Act, and in 1764 demolished the
Nether Bow Port, then one of the chief ornaments
of the city, and like the unoffending Market Cross,
a peculiarly interesting relic of the past. The
ancient clock of its spire was afterwards placed
in that old Orphan’s Hospital, near Shakespeare
Square, where it remained till the removal of the
latter edifice in 1845, when the North British Railway
was in progress, and it is now in the pediment
between the towers of the beautiful Tuscan edifice
built for the orphans near the Dean cemetery. ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Nether Bow. with cannon stone-shot in 1544, ere advancing ;against the Castle. “ They ...

Vol. 2  p. 218 (Rel. 0.6)

rrs PRISONERS. 7 127 The Talbooth.]
was sitting in the Tolbooth hearing the case of the
Laud of Craigmillar, who was suing a divorce
against his wife, the Earl of Bothwell forcibly
dragged out one of the most important witnesses,
and carrying him to his castle of Cricliton, eleven
miles distant, threatened to hang him if he uttered
a word.
On the charge of being a “ Papist,” among many
other prisoners in the Tolbooth in 1628, was the
Countess of Abercorn, where her health became
broken by confinement, and the misery of a
prison which, if it was loathsome in the reign of
George III., must have been something terrible in
the days orCharles I. In 1621 she obtained a
licence to go to the baths of Bristol, but failing
to leave the city, was lodged for six months in the
Canongate gaol. After she had been under restraint
in various places for three years, she was permitted
to remain ir. the earl’s house at Paisley, in March
1631, on condition that she “ reset no Jesuits,”
and to return if required under a penalty of 5,000
merks.
Taken seriatim, the records of the Tolbooth
contain volumes of entries made in the following
brief fashion :-
“1662, June 10.-John Kincaid put in ward
by warrant of the Lords of the Privy Council, for
‘ pricking of persons suspected of witchcraft anwarranfably.’
Liberated on finding caution not to
do so again.
“-June 10.-Robert Binning for falsehood ;
hanged with the false papers about his neck.
“--4ug. q.-Robert Reid for murder. His
head struck from his body at the mercat cross.
“- Dec. 4.-James Ridpath, tinker ; to be qhupitt
from Castle-hill to Netherbow, burned on the
cheek with the Toun’s common mark, and banished
the kicgdom, for the crime of double adultery.
‘‘ 1663, March ~g.-ATexander Kennedy; hanged
for raising false bonds and aritts.
“-March z I.-Aucht Qwakers; liberated, certifying
if again troubling the place, the next prison
shall be the Correction House.
“- July 8.-Katherine Reid ; hanged for
theft.
“-July &--Sir Archibald Johnston of Wamston;
treason. Hanged, his head cut off and placed
on the Netherbow.
“ - July I 8.-Bessie Brebner ; hansed for
murder.
‘I -Aug. zS.-The Provost of Kirkcudbright ;
banished for keeping his house during a tumult.
“ - Oct. 5.-William Dodds ; beheaded for
murder.”
And so on in grim monotony, till we come to
the last five entries in the old record, which is
quite incomplete.
1728, Oct. zs.-John Gibson; forging a
declaration, 18th January, 1727. His lug nailed
to the Tron, and dismissed.
‘( 1751, March 18.-Helen Torrance :md Jean
Waldie were executed this day, for stealing a child,
eight or nine years of age, and selling its body to
the surgeons for dissection. Alive on Tuesday when
carried OK, and dead on Friday, with an incision in
the belly, but sewn up again.
“ I 7 5 6, May 4.-Sir William Dalrymple of Cousland;
for shooting at Capt. Hen. Dalrymple of
Fordell, with a pistol at the Cross of Edinburgh.
Liberated’on 14th May, on bail for 6,000 merks,
to answer any complaint.
“ 1752, Jan. 10.-Norman Ross ; hanged and
hung in chains between Leith and Edinburgh, for
issassinating Lady Bailie, sister to Home of
Wedderburn.
‘ I 1757, Feb. 4.-Janies Rose, Excise Officer at
Muthill ; banished to America for forging receipts
for arrears.”
It was a peculiarity of the Tolbooth, that through
clanship, or some other influence, nearly every
criminal of rank confined in it achieved an escape.
Robert fourth Lord Burleigh, a half insane peer,
who was one of the commissioners for executing
the office of Lord Register in 1689, and who
married a daughter of the Earl of hfelville about
the time of the Union, assassinated a schoolmaster
who had married a girl to whom he had paid improper
addresses, was committed to the Tolbooth,
and sentenced to death; and of his first attempt
to escape the following story is told He was
carried out of the prison in a large trunk, to be
conveyed to Leith, on the back of a powerful
porter, who was to put hini on board a vessel
about to sail for the Continent. It chanced that
when slinging the trunk on his back, the porter
did so with Lord Burleigh‘s head doiwnnmost, thus
it had to sustain the weight of his whole body.
The posture was agony, the way long and rough,
but life was dear. Unconscious of his actual
burden, the porter reached the Netherbow Port,
where an acquaintance asked him “whither he
was going?” ‘:TO Leith,” was the reply. “ Is the
work good enough to afford a glass before going
farther?” was the next question. The porter said
it was; and tossed down the trunk with such
violence that it elicited a scream from Lord Burleigh,
who instantly fainted.
Scared and astounded, the porter wrenched open
the trunk, when its luckless inmate was found
cramped, doubled-up, and senseless. A crowd ... PRISONERS. 7 127 The Talbooth.] was sitting in the Tolbooth hearing the case of the Laud of Craigmillar, who ...

Vol. 1  p. 127 (Rel. 0.59)

High Street.] TULZIES IN THE HIGH STREET. 195 - -
his own friends and servants into two armed parties,
set forth on slaughter intent.
He directed his brothers John and Robert
Tweedie, Porteous of Hawkshaw, Crichton of
Quarter, and others, to Conn’s Close, which was
directly opposite to the smith’s booth; while he,
accompanied by John and Adam Tweedie, sons of
the Gudeman of Dura, passed to the Kirk (of Field)
Wynd, a little to the westward of the booth, to cut
off the victim if he hewed a way to escape ; but as
he was seen standing at the booth door with his
back to them, they shot him down with their
pistols in cold blood, and left him lying dead on
the spot.
For this the Tweedies were imprisoned in the
Castle; but they contrived to compromise the
matter with the king, making many fair promises ;
yet when he was resident at St. James’s, in 1611,
he heard that the feud and the fighting in Upper
Tweeddale were as bitter as ever.
On the 19th of January, 1594, a sharp tulzie, or
combat, ensued in the High Street between the
Earl of Montrose, Sir James Sandilands, and others.
10 explain the cause of this we must refer to
Calderwood, who tells us that on the 13th of
February, in the preceding year, John Graham of
Halyards, a Lord of Session (a kinsman of Montrose),
was passing down Leith Wynd, attended by
three or four score of armed men for his protection,
when Sir Janies Sandilands, accompanied by his
friend Ludovic Duke of Lennox, with an armed
I company, met him. As they had recently been
in dispute before the Court about Some temple
lands, Graham thought he was about to be attacked,
and prepared to make resistance. The
duke told him to proceed on his journey, and that
no one would molest him; but the advice was
barely given when some stray shots were fired by
the party of the judge, who was at once attacked,
and fell wounded. He was borne bleeding into
an adjacent house, whither a French boy, page to
Sir Alexander Stewart, a friend of Sandilands, followed,
and plunged a dagger into him, thus ending
a lawsuit according to the taste of the age.
Hence it was that when, in the following year,
John Earl of Montrose-a noble then about fifty
years old, who had been chancellor of the jury that
condemned the Regent Morton, and moreover was
Lord High Chancellor of the kingdom-met Sir
James Sandilands in the High Street, he deemed
it his duty to avenge the death of the Laird of
Halyards. On the first amval of the earl in Edinburgh
Sir James had been strongly recommended
by his friends to quit it, as his enemies were too
strong for him ; but instead of doing so he desired
the aid and assistance of all his kinsmen and
friends, who joined him forthwith, and the two
parties meeting on the 19th of January, near the
Salt Tron, a general attack with swords and hack
buts begun. One account states that John, Master
of Montrose (and father of the great Marquis), first
began the fray; another that it was begun by Sir
James Sandilands, who was cut down and severely
wounded by more than one musket-shot, and
would have been slain outright but for the valour
of a friend named Captain Lockhart. The Lord
Chancellor was in great peril, for the combat was
waged furiously about him, and, according to the
“ Historie of King James the Sext,” he was driven
back fighting “to the College of Justice ( i e . , the
Tolbooth). The magistrates of the town with
fencible weapons separatit the parties for that time ;
and the greatest skaith Sir James gat on his party,
for he himself was left for dead, and a cousingerman
of his, callit Crawford of Kerse, was slain,
and many hurt.” On the side of the earl only one
was killed, but many were wounded.
On the 17th of June, 1605, there was fought in
the High Street a combat between the Lairds of
Edzell and Pittarrow, with many followers on both
sides. It lasted, says Balfour in his AnnaZes, from
nine at night till two next morning, with loss and
many injuries. The Privy Council committed the
leaders to prison.
The next tulzie of which we read arose from the
following circumstance :-
Captain James Stewart (at one time Earl of
Arran) having been slain in 1596 by Sir James
Douglas of Parkhead, a natural son of the Regent
Morton, who cut off his .head at a place called
Catslack, and carried it on a spear, “leaving his
body to be devoured by dogs and swine;” this
act was not allowed to pass unrevenged by the
house of Ochiltree, to which the captain-who had
been commander of the Royal Guard-belonged.
But as at that time a man of rank in Scotland
could not be treated as a malefactor for slaughter
committed in pursuance of a feud, the offence was
expiated by an assythement. The king strove
vainly to effect a reconciliation ; but for years the
Imds Ochiltree and Douglas (the latter of whom
was created Lord Torthorwald in 1590 by James
VI.) were at open variance.
It chanced that on the 14th of July, 1608, that
Lord Torthonvald was walking in the High Street
a little below the Cross, between six and seven in
the morning, alone and unattended, when he suddenly
met William Stewart, a nephew of the man
he had slain. Unable to restrain the sudden rage
that filled him, Stewart drew his sword, and ere ... Street.] TULZIES IN THE HIGH STREET. 195 - - his own friends and servants into two armed parties, set forth ...

Vol. 2  p. 195 (Rel. 0.59)

238 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Leith.
-to hir lovite suitore, Johne Chisholme, his airis and
. assignais, all and hailk hir lands callit the King’s
Werk in Leith, within the boundis specifit in the
infeftment maid to him thairupon, quhilkis than
-war alluterlie decayit, and sensyne are reparit and
re-edifit, he the said Johne Chisholnie, to the policy
.and great decoration of this realme, in that office,
place, and sight of all strangeris and utheris re-
- sortand to the Schore of Leith.”
In 1575 it had been converted into a hospital
- for the plague-stricken ; but when granted to Bernard
Lindsay in 1613, he was empowered to keep
four taverns in the buildings, together with the
tennis-court, for the then favourite pastime of
‘catchpel. It continued to be used for that purpose
till the year 1649, when it was taken pos-
2 session of by the magistrates of Edinburgh, and
. converted into a weigh-house.
“ In what part of the building Bemard Lindsay
commenced tavern-keeping we are unable to say,”
observes Campbell, in his “ History of Leith,” “ but
.are more than half disposed to believe it was that
old house which projects into Bernard Street, and
is situated nearly opposife the British Linen Com-
,pany’s Bank.” ‘‘ The house alluded to,” adds
Robertson on this, “has a carved stone in front,
representing a rainbow rising from the clouds, with
a date 165-, the last figure being obliterated, and
-can hatre no reference to Bernard Lindsay.”
The tennis-court of the latter would seem to have
been frequently patronised by the great Marquis of
Montrose in his youth, as in his ‘‘ Household Accounts,”
under date 1627, are the following entries
.(Mait. Club Edit.) :-
‘‘ Item to the poor, my Lord taking coch . . qs.
Item, carrying the graith to Leth . . . . 8s.
Item, to some poor there . . . . . . 3s
Item, to my Lord Nepar’s cochman . .
Item, for balls in the Tinnes Court of Leth..
. . 6s. Sd.
16s.”
The first memorial of Bernard Lindsay is in
the Parish Records ” of South Leith, and is dated
17th July, 1589 :-“ The quhilk days comperit
up Bemard Lindsay and Barbara Logan, and gave
their names to be proclamit and mareit, within
this date and Michaelmas.-JoHN LOGANE, Cautioper.”
Another record, 2nnd September, I 633, bears
that the Session “ allowis burial to Barbara Logane,
-.elict of Bernard Lindsaye, besyde her husbande in
the kirk-yeard, in contentation yairof, 100 merks to
be given to the poor.”
From Bernard Lindsay, the name of the present
Bernard Street is derived. Bernard’s Nook has
long been known. ‘‘ In the ‘ Council Records’ of
Edinburgh, 1647,” says Robertson, “is the following
entry :-‘ To the purchase of the Kingis Werk,
in Leith, 4,500 lib. Scot.’ A previous entry, 1627,
refers to dealing with the sons of Bernard Lindsay,
‘for their house in Leith to be a custom-house. . . .’
We have no record that any buildings existed beyond
the bounds of the walls or the present
Bernard Street at this time, the earliest dates on
the seaward part of the Shore being 1674-1681.”
The old Weigh-house, or Tron of Leith, stood
within Bernard’s Nook, on the west side of the
street ; but local, though unsupported, tradition
asserts that the original signal-tower and lighthouse
of Leith stood in the Broad Wynd.
Wilson thus refers to the relic of the Wark
already mentioned :-‘‘ A large stone panel, which
bore the date 1650-the year immediately succeeding
the appropriation of the King‘s Wark to
civic purposes-appeared in the north gable of the
old weigh-house, which till recently occupied its
site, with the curious device of a rainbow carved
in bold relief springing at either end from a bank
of clouds.”
“ So,” says Arnot, ‘‘ this fabric, which was reared
for the sports and recreations of a Court, was
speedily to be the scene of the ignoble labours of
carmen and porters, engaged in the drudgery of
weighing hemp and of iron.”
Eastward of the King’s Wark, between Bernard‘s
Street and chapel, lies the locality once so curiously
designated Little London, and which, according to
Kincaid, measured ninety feet from east to west,
by seventy-five broad over the walls. “ How it
acquired the name of Little London is now
unknown,” says Camphell, in his “ History ” ;
“but it was so-called in the year 1674, We do
not see, however,” he absurdly remarks, “that it
could have obtained this appellation from any
other circumstauce than its having had some
real or supposed resemblance to the [English]
metropolis.”
As the views preserved of Little London show it
to have consisted of only four houses or so, and
these of two storeys high, connected by a dead
wall with one doorway, facing Bemard Street in
1800, Campbell’s theory is untenable. It is much
more probable that it derived its name from being
the quarters or cantonments of those 1,500 English
soldiers who, under Sir Williani Drury, Marshal of
Berwick, came from England in April, 1573, to
assist the Regent Morton’s Scottish Companies in
the reduction of Edinburgh Castle. These men
departed from Leith on the 16th of the following
June, and it has been supposed that a few of them
may have been induced to remain, and the locality
thus won the name of Little London, in the same ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Leith. -to hir lovite suitore, Johne Chisholme, his airis and . assignais, all and ...

Vol. 6  p. 238 (Rel. 0.59)

THE OLD TOWN GUARD. I35 The Tolbooth.]
impartial rule of the Cromwellian period, formed
the scene of many an act of stern discipline, when
drunkards were compelled to ride the wooden
horse, with muskets tied to their feet, and “ a drinking
cup,” as Nicoll names it, on their head. ‘‘ The
chronicles of this place of petty durance, could
they now be recovered, would furnish many an
amusing scrap of antiquated scandal, interspersed
at rare intervals with the graver deeds of such
disciplinarians as the Protector, or the famous sack
of the Porteous mob. There such fair offenders as
the witty 2nd eccentric Miss Mackenzie, daughter
of Lord Royston, found at times a night’s lodging,
when she and her maid sallied out aspreux chma-
Ciers in search of adventures. Occasionally even
grave jidge or learned lawyer, surprised out of
his official decorum by the temptation of a jovial
club, was astonished, oh awaking, tu find himself
within its impartial walls, among such strange bedfellows
as the chances of the night had offered
to its vigilant guardians.’’ A slated building of
one storey in height, it consisted of four apartments.
In the western end was the captain’s room;
there was also a “ Burghers’ room,” for special prisoners
; in the centre was a common hall ; and at
the east end was an apartment devoted to the
use of the Tron-men, or city sweeps. Under
the captain’s room was the black-hole, in which
coals and refractory prisoners were kept. In I 785
this unsightly edifice was razed to the ground,
an3 the soldiers of the Guard, after occupying the
new Assembly Rooms, had their head-quarters
finally assigned them on the ground floor of the
old Tolbooth.
It is impossible to quit our memorials of the
latter without a special reference to the famous
old City Guard, with which it was inseparably
connected.
In the alarm caused by the defeat at Flodden,
all male inhabitants of the’ city were required to
be in arms and readiness, while twenty-four men
were selected as a permanent or standing watch,
and in them originated the City Guard, which,
however, was not completely constituted until
1648, when the Town Council appointed a body
of sixty men to be raised, whereof the captain
was, says Amot, “to have the monthly pay of
LII 2s. 3d. sterling, two lieutenants of E2 each,
two sergeants of AI 5s., three corporals of AI,
and the private men 15s. each per month.”
No regular fund being provided to defray this
expense, after a time the old method of “watching
and warding,” every fourth citizen to be on duty in
arms each night, was resumed; but those, he adds,
on whom this service was incumbent, became so re-
,
-
laxed in discipline, that the Privy Council informed
the magistrates that if they did not provide an
efficient guard to preserve order in the city, the
regular troops of the Scottish army would be
quartered in it
Upon this threat forty armed men were raised as.
a guard in 1679, and in consequence of an event
which occurred in 1682, this number was increased
to 108 men. The event referred to was a riot,
caused by an attempt to carry off a number of
lads who had been placed in the Tolbooth for
trivial offences, to serve the Prince of Orange as.
soldiers. As they were being marched to Leith,
under escort, a crowd led by women attacked the
latter. By order of Major Keith, commanding, the
soldiers fired upon the people ; seven men and two
women were shot, and twenty-two fell wounded.
One of the women being with child, it was cut from
her and baptised in the street. The excitement of
this affair caused the augmentation of the guard, for
whose maintenance a regular tax was levied, while
Patrick Grahame, a younger son of Inchbraikiethe
same officer whom Macaulay so persistently
confounds with Claverhouse-was appointed captain,
with the concurrence of the Duke of York
and Albany. Their pay was 6d. daily, the drummers’
IS., and the sergeants’ IS. 6d. In 1685
Patnck Grahame, “ captain of His Majesty’s
company of Foot, within the town of Edinburgh
(the City Guard), was empowered to import 300
ells of English cloth of a scarlet colour, with
wrappings and other necessaries, for the clothing
of the corps, this being in regard that the manufactories
are not able to furnish His Majesty’s
(Scottish) forces with cloth and other necessaries.”
After the time of the Revolution the number of
the corps was very fluctuating, and for a period,
after 1750, it consisted usually of only seventy-five
men, a force most unequal to the duty to be done.
“The Lord Provost is commander of this useful
corps,” wrote Amot, in 1779. “ The men are properly
disciplined, and fire remarkably well. Within
these two years some disorderly soldiers in one of
the marching regiments, having conceived an umbrage
at tha Town Guard, attacked them. They
were double in number to the party of the Town
Guard, who, in the scuffle, severely wounded some
of their assailants, and made the whole prisoners.”
By day they were armed with muskets and bayonets ;
at night with Lochaber axes. They were mostly
Highlanders, all old soldiers, many of whom had
served in the Scots brigades in Holland. In the
city they took precedence of all troops of the line.
At a monthly inspection of the corps in 1789 the
Lord Provost found a soldier in the ranks who had ... OLD TOWN GUARD. I35 The Tolbooth.] impartial rule of the Cromwellian period, formed the scene of many an act ...

Vol. 1  p. 135 (Rel. 0.58)

’54 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Leith Walk.
belonged to different vehicles. It is standing opposite
the Tron Kirk. The warning bell rings a
quarter of an hour before starting ! Shortly a pair
of illconditioned and ill-sized hacks make their
appearance, and are yoked to it ; the harness, partly
of old leathern straps and partly of ropes, bears
evidence of many a mend. A passenger comes
and takes a seat-probably from the Crames or
Luckenbooths-who has shut his shop and affixed
a notice to the door, ‘Gone to Leith, and will be
back at 4 of the clock, p.m.’ The quarter being
up, and the second bell rung, off starts the coach
at a very slow pace. Having taken three-quarters
of an b u r to get to the Halfway House, the ‘ ‘bus ’
sticks fast in a rut ; the driver whips up his nags,
when 10 ! away go the horses, but fast remains the
stage. The ropes being re-tied, and assistance procured
from the ‘ Half-way,’ the stage is extricated,
and proceeds. What a contrast,” adds the writer,
“ between the above pictures and the present ‘ ’bus ’
with driver and conductor, starting every five
minutes.” But to-day the contrast is yet greater,
the tram having superseded the ’bus.
The forty oil-lamps referred to would seem not to
have been erected, as in the Advertiser for Sep
tember, 1802, a subscription was announced for
lighting the Walk during the ensuing winter season,
the lamps not to be lighted at all until a sufficient
sum had been subscribed at the Leith Bank and
certain other places to continue them to the end
of March, 1803 ; but we have no means of knowing
if ever this scheme were camed out.
“ If my reader be an inhabitant of Edinburgh of
any standing,” writes Robert Chambers, “ he must
have many delightful associations of Leith Walk
in connection with his childhood. Of all the streets
in Edinburgh or Leith, the Walk, in former times,
was certainly the street for boys and girls. From
top to bottom it was a scene of wonders and enjoyments
peculiarly devoted to children. Besides the
panoramas and caravan shows, which were comparatively
transient spectacles, there were several
shows upon Leith Walk which might be considered
as regular fixtures, and part of the countv-cousin
sghts of Edinburgh. Who can forget the waxworks
of ‘Mrs. Sands, widow of the late G. Sands,’
which occupied a laigh shop opposite to the present
Haddington Place, and at the door of which,
besides various parrots and sundry Birds of Paradise,
sat the wax figure of a little man in the dress
of a French courtier of the ancien r&iaime, reading
one eternal copy of the Edinburgh Advertiser?
The very outsides of these wonderful shops was an
immense treat ; all along the Walk it was one delicious
scene of squirrels hung out at doors and
monkeys dressed like soldiers and sailors, with
holes behind them where their tails came through.
Even the halfpenny-less boy might have got his
appetite for wonders to some extent gratified.”
The long spaces of blank garden or nursery
walls on both sides of the way were then literally
garrisoned with mendicants, organ-grinders, and
cripples on iron or wooden legs, in bowls and
wheelbarrows, by ballad singers and itinerant
fiddlers. Among the mendicants on the east side
of the Walk, below Elm Row (where the last of
the elms has long since disappeared) there was one
noted mendicant, an old seaman, whose figure was
familiar there for years, and whose sobriquet was
“ Commodore O’Brien,” who sat daily in a little
masted boat which had been presented to him by
order of George IV. “The commodore’s ship,”
says the Week0 JournaZ for 1831, “ is appropriately
called the Royal Ggt. It is scarcely 6 f t
long, by 24 breadth of beam, and when rigged for
use her mast is little stouter than a mopstick, her
cordage scarcely stronger than packthread, and
her tonnage is a light burden for two men. In this
mannikin cutter the intrepid navigator fearlessly
commits himself to the ocean and performs long
voyages.” Now the character of the Walk is entirely
changed, as it is a double row of houses from
end to end.
During the railway mania two schemes were projected
to supersede the omnibus traffic here. One
was an atmospheric railway, and the other a subterranean
one, to be laid under the Walk A road
for foot-passengers was to be formed alongside the
railway, and shops, from which much remuneration
was expected, were to be opened along the line ;
but both schemes collapsed, though plans for them
were laid before Parliament.
In April, 1803, there died, in a house in Leith
Walk, James Sibbald, an eminent bookseller and
antiquary, who was educated at the grarnmarschool
of Selkirk, and after being in the shop of
Elliott, a publisher in Edinburgh, in I 78 I acquired
by purchase the library which had once belonged to
Allan Ramsay, and was thereafter long one of the
leading booksellers in the Parliament Square.
One terrible peculiarity attended Leith Walk,
even till long after the middle of the last century
this was the presence of a permanent gibbet at the
Gallow Lee, a dreary object to the wayfarer by
night, when two or three malefactors swung there in
chains, with the gleds and crows perching over
them. It stood on rising ground, on the west side
of the Walk, and its site is enclosed in the precincts
of a villa once occupied by the witty and beautiful
Duchess of Gordon. As the knoll was composed ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Leith Walk. belonged to different vehicles. It is standing opposite the Tron Kirk. ...

Vol. 5  p. 154 (Rel. 0.58)

St. Gild’s Church.] SIR DAVID LINDESAY ON THE PROCESSIONISTS. 14r
In his “Monarchie,” finished in 1553, the pungent
Sir David Lindesay of the Mount writes thus
of the processionists :-
THE NORMAN DOORWAY, ST. GILES’S WHICH WAS DE~TKOYEL) IOWAKDS THE END OF THE
EIGHTEENTH CENTURY. (From a Drawing by an no^ nbont 1799.)
The Lady aisle, where Preston’s ,gave lay and
the altar stood, was part of what forms now the
south aisle of the choir called the High Church, and
“ Fy on you fostereris of idolatrie !
That till ane did stok does sik reverence
Feir ye nocht God, to commit sik offence,
To gar suppresse sik greit abusion;
Sal1 be nocht else, bot clene confusion.”
In presens of the pepill publicklie ;
I counsall you do yit ywr diligence,
Do ye nocht sa, I dreid your recompense,
on that altar many of the earliest recorded gifts
were bestowed.
The constant additions made to St. Giles’s
church, from the exchequer of the city, or by contributions
of wealthy burgesses, cannot but be
regarded as a singular evidence of the great ... Gild’s Church.] SIR DAVID LINDESAY ON THE PROCESSIONISTS. 14r In his “Monarchie,” finished in 1553, the ...

Vol. 1  p. 141 (Rel. 0.58)

ROBERT MONTEITH. . 3’5 Duddingston.]
incumbent of Duddingston in 1805. His favourite
subjects were to be found in the grand and sublime
of Nature, and his style is marked chiefly by
vigour, power, and breadth of effect-strong light
and deep shadow. As a man and a Christian
minister, his life was simple, pure, and irreproachable,
his disposition kind, affable, and benevolent.
He died of apoplexy in 1840, in his sixty-second
year.
The city must have had some interest in the loch,
as in the Burgh accounts for 1554 we read:-
‘‘ Item : twa masons twa weeks to big the Park Dyke
at the loch side of Dudding‘ston, and foreanent it
again on Priestfield syde, ilk man in the week xv’.
summa iijIi.
(‘Item : for ane lang tree to put in the wall that
lyes far in the loch for outganging of ziyld beistis
v?.” ’ (“ Burgh Records.”)
The town or lands of Duddingston are included
in an act of ratification to James, Lord Lindsay of
the Byers, in 1592.
In the Acts of Sederunt for February, 1650, we
find Alexander Craig, in-dweller in the hamlet,
pilloried at the Tron of Edinburgh,. and placarded
as being a “ lying witness ” in an action-at-law
concerning the pedigree of John Rob in Duddingston;
but among the few reminiscences of this
place may be mentioned the curious hoax which
the episcopal incumbent thereof at the Restoration
played upon Cardinal de Retz.
This gentleman, whose name was Robert Monteith,
had unfortunately become involved in an
amour with a lady in the vicinity, the wife of Sir
James Hamilton of Prestonfield, and was cpmpelled
to fly from the scene of his disgrace. He
was the son of a humble man employed in the
salmon-fishing above Alloa ; but on repairing to
Paris, and after attaching himself to M. de la
Porte, Grand Prior of France, and soliciting employment
from Cardinal de Retz, he stated he was
“one of the Monteith family in Scotland.” The
cardinal replied that he knew the family well, but
asked to which branch he belonged. “To the
Monteiths of Salmon-net,” replied the unabashed
adventurer.
The cardinal replied that this was a branch he
had never heard of, but added that he believed
it was, no doubt, a very ancient and illustrious
family. Monteith was patronised by the cardinal,
who bestowed on him a canonry in Notre Dame,
and made him his secretary, in which capacity he
distinguished himself by his elegance and purity,
in the French language. This strange man is
author of a well-known work, published in folio,
entitled, “ Hisfoa’re des TroubZes de &andBretap,
depuis Z’an 1633 juspu’a Z‘an 1649, pur Robed
Menfet de Salmonet.
It was dedicated to the Coadjutor Archbishop of
Pans, with a portrait of the author; and a trans- .
lation of it, by Captain James Ogilvie, was published
in 1735 by G. Strachan, at the “Golden Ball,”
in Cornhill.
In the year of the Revolution we find the
beautiful loch of Duddingston, as an adjunct to
the Royal Park, mentioned in a case before the
Privy Council on the 6th March.
The late Duke of Lauderdale having placed
some swans thereon, his clever duchess, who was
carrying on a legal contest With his heirs, deemed
herself entitled to take away some of those birds
when she chose; but Sir James Dick, now proprietor
of the %ch, broke a lock-fast place in
which she had put them, and set them once more
upon the water. The irate dowager raised an
action against him, which was decided in her
favour, but in defiance of this, the baronet turned
all the swans off the loch ; on which the Duke of
Hamilton, as Heritable Keeper of the palace, came
to the rescue, as Fountainhall records, alleging
that the loch bounded the King’s Park, and that
all the wild animals belonged to him ; they were,
therefore, restored to their former haunts.
Of the loch and the landsof Priestfield (orPrestonfield),
Cockburn says, in his “Memorials” :-“I know
the place thoroughly. The reeds were then regularly .
cut over by means of short scythes with very long
handles, close to the ground, and this (system)
made Duddingston nearly twice its present size”
Otters are found in its waters, and a solitary
badger has at times provoked a stubborn chase.
The loch is in summer covered by flocks of dusky
coots, where they remain till the closing of the ice
excludes them from the water, when they emigrate
to the coast, and return With the first thaw.
Wild duck, teal, and water-hens, also frequent it,
and swans breed there prolifically, and form one
of its most picturesque ornaments. The pike, the
perch, and a profusion of eels, which are killed by
the barbed sexdent, also abound there.
In winter here it is that skating is practised as an
art by the Edinburgh Club. “The writer recalls
with pleasure,” says the author of the “Book of
Days,” “skating exhibitions which he saw there early
in the present century, when Henry Cockburn,
and the philanthropist James Sipson, were conspicuous
amongst the most accomplished of the
club for their handsome figures and great skill in
the art. The scene of that loch ‘ in full bearing J
on a clear winter day, with its busy and stirring
multitude of sliders, skaters, and curlers, the snowy
Paris, 166 I.” ... MONTEITH. . 3’5 Duddingston.] incumbent of Duddingston in 1805. His favourite subjects were to be found in ...

Vol. 4  p. 315 (Rel. 0.57)

OLD AND - NEW EDINBURGH. [Greyfriars Church ... AND - NEW EDINBURGH. [Greyfriars ...

Vol. 4  p. 376 (Rel. 0.57)

200 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [High Etreet.
the gentlemen’s mansions and goodliest houses are
obscurely founded in the aforesaid lanes. The
walls are eight or ten feet thick, exceeding strong,
not built for a day, a week, a month, or a year, but
from antiquity to posterity-for many ages. There
I found entertainment beyond my expectation or
merit; and there is fish, flesh, bread, and fruit in
such variety, that I think I may offenceless call it
superffuity or satiety.”
The “ PennileSs Pilgrim” came to Scotland in a
more generous and appreciative mind than his
countryman did, 150 years subsequently, and all
he saw filled him with wonder, especially the mountains,
to which he says : “Shooter‘s Hill, Gad‘s
Hill, Highgate Hill, and Hampstead Hill, are but
molehills.”
Varied indeed have been the scenes witnessed in
the High Street of Edinburgh. Among these we
may mention a royal banquet and whimsical procession,
formed by order of James VI., in 1587.
Finding himself unable to subdue the seditious
spirit of the ecclesiastics, whom he both feared and
detested, he turned his attention to those personal
quarrels and deadly feuds which had existed for
ages among the nobles and landed.gentry, in the
hope to end them.
After much thought and preliminary negotiation,
he invited the chiefs of all the contending parties
to a royal entertainment in Holyrood, where he
obtained a promise to bury and forget their feudal
dissensions for ever. Thereafter, in the face of
all the assembled citizens, he prevailed upon them
to walk two by two, hand in hand, to the Market
Cross, where a banquet of wines and sweetmeats
was prepared for them, and where they all draIzk
to each other in token of mutual friendship and
future forgiveness. The populace testified their
approbation by loud and repeated shouts of joy.
“ This reconciliatione of the nobilitie and diverse
of the gentry,” says Balfour in his Annales, “ was
the gratest worke and happiest game the king
had played in all his raigne heithertills ;” but if
his good offices did not eradicate the seeds of
transmitted hate, they, at leas{ for a time, smothered
them.
The same annalist records the next banquet
at the Cross in 1630. On the birth of a prince,
afterwards Charles II., on the 29th of May, the
Lord Lyon king-at-arms was dispatched by Charles
from London, where he chanced to be, with orders
to carry the news to Scotland. He reached Edinburgh
on the 1st of June, and the loyal joy of the
people burst forth with great effusiveness. The
batteries of the Castle thundered forth a royal
salute ; bells rang and bonfires blazed, and a table
was spread in the High Street that extended half
its entire length, from the Cross to the Tron,
whereat the nobility, Privy Council, and Judges, sat
down to dinner, the heralds in their tabards and
the royal trumpeters being in attendance.
In that same street, a generation after, was seen,
in his old age begging his bread from door to door,
John Earl of Traquair, who, in 1635, had beerk
Lord High Treasurer of Scotland and High Commissioner
to the Parliament and General Assembly,
one of the few Scottish nobles who protested against
the surrender of King Charles to the English, but
who was utterly ruined by Cromwell. A note
to Scotstarvit’s “ Scottish Statesmen,” records that
“he died in anno 1659, in extreme poverty, on the
Lord’s day, and suddenly when taking a pipe of
tobacco; and at his funeral had no mortcloth,
but a black apron; nor towels, but dog’s leishes
belonging to some gentlemen that were present ;
and the grave being two foot shorter than his body,
the assistants behoved to stay till the same was
enlarged, and be buried.”
“ I saw him begging in the streets of Edinburgh,”
says another witness, James Fraser, minister of
Kirkhill; ‘‘ he was in an antique garb, wore a
broad old hat, short cloak and panier breeches,
and I contributed in my quarters in the Canongate
towar s his relief. The Master of Lovat, Culbockie
(FraseY), Glenmonston (Grant), and myself were
there, and he received the piece of money from my
hand as humbly and as thankfully as the poorest
supplicant. It is said, that at a time he had not
(money) to pay for cobbling his boots, and died
in a poor cobbler’s house.”
And this luckless earl, so rancorously treated,
was the lineal descendant of James Stuart the
Black Knight of Lome, and of John of Gaunt Duke
of Lancaster.
Nicoll records in his curious diary that in the
October of 1654 a vast number of hares came into
the city, penetrating even to its populous and
central parts, such as the Parliament Close and
the High Street; and in the latter, a few years
subsequently, 1662, we read in the Chronicle qf
Fie of a famous quack doctor setting up his
public stage in the midst of that thoroughfare for
the third time.
John Pontheus was a German, styling himself
professor of music, and his modus operandi affords
a curious illustration of the then state of
medical science in Great Britain, and of what
our forefathers deemed the requisites to a good
physician. On the stage mentioned Pontheus had
one person to play the fool, another to dance
upon a tight rope, in order to gather and amuse
rt ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [High Etreet. the gentlemen’s mansions and goodliest houses are obscurely founded in ...

Vol. 2  p. 200 (Rel. 0.56)

50 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Edinburgh Castlc.
brother Sir James, with two burgesses of the City,
were drawn backwards in carts to the market
cross, where they were hanged, and their heads
were placed upon the ruined castle walls. Within
the latter were found twenty-two close carts for
ammunition, and 2,400 cannon balls.
The whole gamson were thrust into the dungeons
of adjacent castles in the county; and four soldiers-
Glasford, Stewart, Moffat, and Millar-“declared
traitors ” for having assisted Kirkaldy “ in
the demolishing and casting down of the bigginis,
showting great and small peissis, without fear of
God or remorse of conscience,“ had to do public
penance at one of the doors of St. Giles’s for
three days ‘‘ cleid in sack cleith.” *
The Regent made his brother, George Douglas
of Parkhead (one of the assassins of Rizzio),
governor, and he it was who built the present half- . moon battery, and effected other repairs, so that
a plan still preserved shows that by 1575 the fortress
had in addition thereto eight distinct towep,
facing the town and south-west, armed by forty
pieces of cannon. exclusive of Mons Meg, arquebusses,
and cut-throats. Over the new gate Morton
placed, above the royal arms, those of his own
family, a fact which was not forgotten when he lost
his head some years after.
In 1576, Alexander Innes of that ilk being
summoned to Edinburgh concerning a lawsuit with
a clansman, Innes of Pethknock, met the latter
by chance near the market cross-then the chief
promenade-and amid high words struck him dead
with his dagger, and continued to lounge quietly
near the body. He was made prisoner in the
Castle, and condemned to‘lose his head; but procured
a remission from the corrupt Regent by
relinquishing one of his baronies, and gave an
entertainment to all his friends. “If I had my
foot once loose,” said he, vauntingly, ‘‘I would
fain see if this Earl of Morton dare take possession
of my land!” This, though a jest, was repeated
to Morton, who retained the bond for the barony,
but, according to the history of the Innes family,
had the head of Innes instantly struck off within
the fortress.
So odious became the administration of Morton
that, in 1578, James VI., though only twelve years
of age, was prevailed upon by Argyle and Athole
to summon the peers, assume the government, and
dismiss Morton, an announcement made by heralds
at the cross on the 12th of March, under three
salutes from the new half-moon ; but it was not
until many scuffles with the people, culminating in
Keith’s “Register”; “Maitknd Club nIiiellury.”
a deadly brawl which roused the whole city in arms
and brought the craftsmen forth with morions,
plate sleeves, and steel jacks, and when the entire
High Street bristled with pikes and Jedwood axes,
that Parkhead, when summoned, gave up the fortress
to the Earl of Mar, to whom the Ezrl of Morton
delivered the regalia and crown jewels, conformably
to an ancient inventory, receiving in return a
pardon for all his misdemeanours-a document
that failed to save him, when, in 1580, he was condemned
and found guilty of that crime for which
he had put so many others to death-the murder
of Darnley-and had his head struck off by the
“Maiden,” an instrument said to be of his own adop
tion, dying unpitied amid the execratidns of assembled
thousands. Calderwood relates that as he
was being conducted captive to the Castle, a woman,
whose husband he had put to death, cursed him
loudly on her bare knees at the Butter Tron. His
head was placed on a port of the city.
From this period till the time of Charles I. little
concerning the Castle occurs in the Scottish annals,
save the almost daily committal of State prisoners
to its dungeons, some of which are appalling
places, hewn out of the living rock, and were then
destitute nearly of all light. From one of these,
Mowbray of Barnbougle, incarcerated in 1602 for
slaying a servant of James VI. in the palace of
Dunfermline, in attempting to escape, fell headlong
through the air, and was dashed on the stony
pathway that led to the Royal Mews 300 feet
below. His body was quartered, and placed on the
Cross, Rether Bow, Potter Row, and West Ports.
In May, 1633, Charles I. visited the capital of’
his native country, entering it on the 16th by the
West Port, amid a splendour of many kinds ; and
on the 17th, under a salute of fifty-two guns, he
proceeded to the Castle attended by sixteen.
coaches and the Horse Guards. He remained in
the royal lodgings one night, and then returned
to Holyrood. On the 17th of June he was again
in the Castle, when the venerable Earl of Mar gave
a magnificent banquet in the great hall, where
many of the first nobles in Scotland and England
were, as Spalding states, seated on each side
of Charles. To that hall he was conducted next
morning, and placed on a throne under avelvet
canopy, by the Duke of Lennox, Lord High
Chamberlain of Scotland. The peers of the realm
then entered in procession wearing their crimson
velvet robes, each belted with his sword, and with
his coronet borne before him. The Chancellor,
Viscount Dupplin, addressed him in the name of the
Parliament. Charles was then conducted to the gate,
from whence began a procession to Holyrood ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Edinburgh Castlc. brother Sir James, with two burgesses of the City, were drawn ...

Vol. 1  p. 50 (Rel. 0.56)

62 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH.
vestments, bearing the arm-bone of the saint ; then
they passed the Cross, the fountain of which flowed
with wine, “ whereof all might drink,” says Leland.
Personages representing the angel Gabriel, the
Virgin, Justice treading Nero under foot, Force
bearing a pillar, Temperance holding a horse’s
bit, and Prudence triumphing over Sardanapalus,
met them at the Nether Bow; and from there,
preceded by music, they proceeded to Holyrood,
where a glittering crowd of ecclesiastics, abbots,
and friars, headed by the Archbishop of St. Andrews,
conveyed them to the high altar, and after
Te Deum was sung, they passed through the
cloisters into the new palace. Fresh ceremonies
took place in a great chamber thereof, the arras
of which represented Troy, and the coloured windows
of which were filled with the arms of Scotland
and England, the Bishop of Moray acting
as master of the ceremonies, which seems to have
included much ‘‘ kyssing ” all round.
On the 8th of August the marriage took place,
and all the courtiers wore their richest apparel,
James sat in a chair of crimson velvet, “the pannels
of that sam gylte under hys cloth of estat, of blue
velvet figured with gold.” On his right hand was
the Archbishop of York, on his left the Earl of
Surrey, while the Scottish prelates and nobles led
in the girl-queen, crowned “with a vary nche
crowne of gold, garnished with perles,” to the high
altar, where, amid the blare of trumpets, the Archbishop
of Glasgow solemnised the marriage. The
banquet followed in a chamber hung with red and
blue, where the royal pair sat under a canopy of
cloth of gold ; and Margaret was served at the first
course with a slice from “ a wyld borres hed gylt,
within a fayr platter.” Lord Grey held the ewer
and Lord Huntly the towel.
The then famous minstrels of Aberdeen came
to Holyrood to sing on this occasion, and were
all provided with silver badges, on which the arms
of the granite city were engraved.
Masques and tournaments followed. James,
skilled in all the warlike exercises of the time,
appeared often in the lists as the savage knight,
attended by followers dressed as Pans and satyrs.
The festivities which accompanied this mamage
indicate an advancement in refinement and splehdour,
chiefly due to the princely nature kindness,
and munificence of James IV.
‘‘ The King of Scotland,” wrote the Spanish ambassador
Don Pedro de Ayala, “is of middle
height ; his features are handsome ; he never cuts
his hair or beard, and it becomes him well. He
expressed himself gracefully in Latin, French, German,
Flemish, Italian, and Spanish. His pronunciation
of Spanish was clearer than that of other
foreigners. In addition to his own, he speaks
the language of the savages (or Celts) who live
among the distant mountains and islands. The
books which King James reads most are the Bible
and those of devotion and prayer. He also studies.
old Latin and French chronicles. . . . , . .
He never ate meat on Wednesday, Friday, or
Saturday. He would not for any consideration
mount horseback on Sunday, not even to go to
mass, Before transacting any business he heard twa
masses. In the smallest matters, and even when
indulging in a joke, he always spoke the truth. . . . . The Scots,” continues De Ayala, “are
often considered in Spain to be handsomer, than the
English. The women of quality were free in their
manners and courteous to strangers The Scottish
ladies reign absolute mistresses in their own. houses,
and the men in all domestic matters yield a.
chivalrous obedience to them. The people live
well, having plenty of beef, mutton, fowl, and fish.
The humbler classes-the women especially-are of
a very religious turn of mind. Altogether, I found,
the Scots to be a very agreeable and, I must add,,
an amiable people.”
Such, says the author of the ‘‘ Tudor Dynasty,”’
was the Scotland of the sixteenth century, a period
described by modem writers as one of barbarism,
ignorance, and superstition ; but thus it was the
Spanish ambassador painted the king and his,
Scots of the days of Flodden.
“ In the year 1507,” says Hawthornden, “James,
Prince of Scotland and the Isles, was born at
Holyrood House the 21st of January,” and the
queen being brought nigh unto death, “the king,
overcome by affection and religious vows,” went
on a pilgrimage to St. Ninian’s in Galloway, and
(‘ at his return findeth the queen recovered.”
In 1517 we read of a brawl in Holyrood, when
James Wardlaw, for striking Robert Roger to the
effusion of blood within ‘‘ my Lord Governor’s chalmer
and palace of pece,” was conveyed to the
Tron, had his hand stricken through, and was.
banished for life, under pain of death.
The governor was the Regent Albany, who took
office after Flodden, and during his residence at
Holyrood he seems to have proceeded immediately
with the works at the palace which the fatal battle
had interrupted, and which James IV. had continued
till his death. The accounts of the treasurer
show that building was in progress then, throughout
the years 1515 and 1516 ; and after Albany
quitted the kingdom for the last time, James V.
came to Holyrood, where he was crowned in 1524,
and remained there, as Pitscottie tells, for “the ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. vestments, bearing the arm-bone of the saint ; then they passed the Cross, the fountain ...

Vol. 3  p. 62 (Rel. 0.56)

253 Leith.] ST. NINIAN’S CHURCH. ... Leith.] ST. NINIAN’S ...

Vol. 6  p. 253 (Rel. 0.56)

st cuthberts
church
churches
west end ... cuthberts church churches west ...

Vol. 1  p. vii (Rel. 0.55)

298 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [St. Mary’s Wynd.
the maintenance of the beads-+eople of that hospital ;
and every person who refused to collect thus, was
fined forty pence Scots, for the use of the poor.
At this period the chaplain’s salary was only six
shillings and eightpence per annum. Spottiswoode
tells us that in the chartularies of St. Giles,
“the nuns of St. Mary’s Wynd, in the city of
Edinburgh, are recorded,” and in the statutes of
the burgh, enacted during a terrible plague in
15~0, a reference to the chapel is made in the case
of Marion Clerk, who was convicted by an assize
of concealing her infection, and attending, with
many others, mass in ‘‘ the chapell of Sanct Mary
Wynd, on Sonday,” and thereby risking the safety
of all. For this crime the poor woman was ordained
to suffer death by drowning at the Quarry
Holes, near the east end of the Calton Hill.
In 1562 great excitement was occasioned in the
city by an act of violence perpetrated by the
notorious Earl of Bothwell, who, with the aid of the
Marquis d’Elbeuf, Lord John of Coldinghame, and
other wild spirits, broke up the doors of Cuthbert
Ramsay’s house in St. Mary’s Wynd one night,
while searching, sword in hand, for his daughterin-
law, Alison Craig, a celebrated courtesan, who,
though living under the protection of ‘‘ the godly
Er1 of Arrane,” as Knox records in very coarse
language, yet contrived to be on very good terms
with other nobles who were his avowed enemies.
A strong remonstrance was presented to the Queen
on this subject, beseeching her to punish the
perpetrators ; but as that was no easy matter, the
brawl was hushed up, and, thus emboldened, Both.
well and other gallants proceeded to play wildei
pranks in the streets during the night, till Gavin
Hamilton, Abbot of Kilwinning, who had joined
the Reformation party, resolved to curb thell
violence by the strodg hand. According to the his
tories of Knox and Keith, he armed all his followers.
sallied forth to oppose the revellers, and a seriour
conflict ensued in the street, between the Crosr
and Tron. Crossbow bolts and hackbut shots fie\\
far and near, while the alarm-bells summoned thc
burghers to “the redding of the fray,” and riva
leaders came sallying forth as hate or humour lec
them, to join in the riot ; till the Earls of Murraj
and Huntley, who were then residing at Holyrood
by order of the Queen, marched up the Canongatt
with all the armed men they could muster, anc
crushed the tumult. Bothwell afterwards, by thc
mediation of Knox, effected a reconciliation witlthe
Earl of Arran, the Abbot of Kilwinning, anc
others who were his enemies.
In the subsequent conflicts of 1572, the house?
in Leith Wynd and St. Mary’s Wynd were unroofed
.
nd all the doors and windows of those on the west
ide of the latter were built up, among other prejarations
made by Sir William Kirkaldy to defend
he town against the king’s men. At a still later
Late in the same year all the houses at the head
if each of those wynds were “tane doun,” and
10 doubt on this occasion the chapel of St. Mary
vould be ruined and dismantled with the rest.
Again in 1650, when preparations were made to
lefend the city against Cromwell, Nicoll records
n his quaint diary, that the magistrates demolished
ill the houses ‘‘ in St. Marie Wynd, that the enymie
ould haif no schelter thair,” and that the cannon
nounted on the Netherbow might’have free pas-
‘age for their shot.
At the foot of the wynd was situated the Cow-
;ate Port, a city gate constructed as a portion of
he second wall in 1513. At a subsequent date
tnother was erected across the wynd, at its junction
Kith the Pleasance; it figures in Rothiemay’s map as
he Portaplatea Sancte Marie, a large arched buildng
with gables at each end, and in Gordon’s day
t was seldom without the head, hands, or quarters
if some unfortunate, such as Garnock and other
Zovenanters, displayed on its spike?. On the approach
of the Highlanders in 1715, it was demolished,
the citizens believing themselves unable
to defend it; but a portion of its wall, with one
rusty spike thereon, remained until 1837,when it was
removed to make way for a new Heriot’s school.
The whole alley was long, and until quite recently
a species of great Rag Fair, where all manner of
cast-off garments were exposed for sale, the walls
literally appearing to be clothed with them from
end to end.
In a house which had its entrance from the east
side of the wynd, but the windows of which opened
to the Canongate, there long resided two maiden
ladies of the now extinct house of Traquair-the
Ladies Barbara and Margaret Stuart-twin sisters,
the children of Charles fourth Earl of Traquair
(who died in 1741), and his Countess, Mary Maxwell,
of the noble house of Nithsdale. The last of
these two, Lady Barbara, died on the 15th of
December, 1794, and they were among some of
the last of note who lingered in the Old Town.
“ They drew out their innocent lives in this place,”
says Robert Chambers, “where latterly one of
their favourite amusements was to make dolls, and
little beds for them to lie on-a practice not quite
uncommon in days long gone by, being to some
degree followed by Queen Mary.”
In the tenement opposite the site of SL Mary’s
chapel, on the east side of the wynd, and forming
the portion of it that led into Boyd‘s Close, there ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [St. Mary’s Wynd. the maintenance of the beads-+eople of that hospital ; and every ...

Vol. 2  p. 298 (Rel. 0.55)

PLAN OF ST. GILE'S CHURCH, PRIOR TO THE ALTERATIONS IN 1829. ... OF ST. GILE'S CHURCH, PRIOR TO THE ALTERATIONS IN ...

Vol. 1  p. 145 (Rel. 0.55)

HEAD OF THE MOUND, PRIOR TO THE ERECTION OF THE FREE CHURCH COLLEGE, 1844 ... OF THE MOUND, PRIOR TO THE ERECTION OF THE FREE CHURCH COLLEGE, ...

Vol. 3  p. ii (Rel. 0.54)

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.


CATHEDRAL, 1787 (aper
The Canongate Tolbooth . . . . . . I
The Burgh Seal of the Canongate . . . , 3
TheMarket Cross, Canongate . . . . . 3
Haddington’s Entry . . . . . . . 4
East End of High Street, Nether Bow, and West End
of Canongate . . . . . . . 5
Effigy of the Moor, Morocco Land . . . . 7
The Marquis of Huntly’s House, from the Canongate. 8
The MarquisofHuntly’sIlouse,from BakehouseClose‘ g
Nisbet of Dirleton’s House . , . , . 12
The Golfers’ Land . . . . . . . 13
The Canongate-Continuation Eastward of Plan on
page 5 . . . . . e . . 16
Tolbooth Wynd . . . . . . . 20
Lintel of John Hunter’s House, Panmure Close . . ZI
The Water Gate . , . . . . . q
Chessel’s Buildings . . . . . . . 25
Lintel above the Door of Sir A. Acheson’s House . 27
Smollett’s House, St. John Street . . . . 28‘
The Canongate Church . , . . . , 29
Fergusson’s Grave . . . . . . . 30
The Stocks, from thecanongate Tolbooth. . . 31
Levee Room in Moray House ; Sommer House in the
Garden of Moray House ; Arbour in the Garden
PAGE ‘
of Moray House ; Portion of a Ceiling in Moray
House . . . . . . . . 32
Moray House . . . . . . . . 33
East End of the Canongate . . . . . 36
The Gnongate, looking West . . . . . 37
The Palace Gafe . . . . . . . 40
Queen Mary’s Bath . . . . . . . 41
Croft-an-righ House . . . , . . . 44
H o l p d Palace and Abbey . , ,. . . 45
Seal of Holymd Abbey . . . . . . 46
TheAbbeyChurch . . . . . . . 4
OF, ILLUSTRATIONS.
D a d AZZm).-F~on&pzkc.
PAGE
Interim of the Chapel Royal of Holyrood House, 1687 49
Ground Plan of the Chapel Royal of Holyrood House 52
West Front of H o l y r d Abbey Church . , . 53
Interior of Holyrood Church, looking East . . 56
North Entrance to the Nave of Holyrood Abbey Church 57
The Belhaven Monument, Holyrood Church . . 60
Isometric Projection of the Royal Palace of Holyrood
House . . . . . . . 61
The Abbey Port . . . . . . . 64
The Queen Mary Apartments, Holyrood Palace
To faccpagc 66
Royal Gardens, and Ancient Horologe . . 68
Gardens, the Abbey Kirk, and‘the Kirkyard , 69
72
Holyrood Palxe, the Regent Moray’s House, the
The Palaceof Holyrood House, the South and North
Holyrood Palaceasit was before theFire of 1650
Holyrood Palace and Abbey Church, from the South-
East . . . . . . . . . 73
The Royal Apartments, H o l y r d Palace Tu farepage 74
The Quadrangle, Holyrood Palace . . . . 76
The Gallery of the Kings, Holyrood Palace . . 77
Holyrood Palace, West Front . . . . . 80
The Hol-mod Fountain . . . . . , 81
The Royal Institution as itwas in 1829 . . . 84
The Royal Institution. . . . . . 85
TheNationalGallery. . . .. . . . 88
Interior of theNational Gallery . . . . Sg
The Bank of Scotland, from Princes Street Gardens . 96
Head of the Mound, prior to the erection of the Free
Church College, 1844 . . To factpage 97
Library of the Free Church College . . . . 97
West Princes Street Gardens, 1875 . . . . lot
Nelson’s Monument, Calton Rill, from Princes Street. I O ~
The Calton Hill, Calton Gaol, Burying-ground, and
Monuments. . . . . . . . 105 ... OF ILLUSTRATIONS. CATHEDRAL, 1787 (aper The Canongate Tolbooth . . . . . . I The Burgh Seal of the ...

Vol. 4  p. 392 (Rel. 0.53)

St. Giles’s Church.
was a place frequently assigned in bills for the
payment of money.
The transept, called at times the Assembly aisle,
was the scene of Jenny Geddes’ famous onslaught
with her faZdstuZe, on the reader of the liturgy in
1637. The erection of Edinburgh into an episcopal
see in 1633, under Bishop William Forbes
Gwho died the same year), and the appointment of
In 1596 St. Giles’s was the scene of a tumultuous
dispute between James VI. and the leaders of the
Church party. The king was sitting in that part
of it which the Reformers named the Tolbooth
Kirk, together with the Octavians, as they were
styled, a body of eight statesmen into whose hands
he had committed all his financial affairs and patronage.
The disturbance from which the king felt
THE LANTERN AND TOWER OF ST. GILES’S CHURCH.
St. Giles to be the cathedral of the diocese, led-in
its temporary restoration internally-to something
like what it had been of old; but ere the orders of
Charles I. for the demolition of its hideous galleries
and subdivisions could be carried out, all
Scotland was in arms, and the entire system of
Church polity for which thesechanges were designed,
had come to a violent and a terrible end. This
transept was peculiarly rich in lettered gravestones,
all of which were swept away by the ruthless improvers
of 1829, and some of those were used as
pavement round the Fountain Well.
himself to be in peril, arose from an address by Balcanqual,
a popular preacher, who called on the
Protestant barons and his other chance auditors to
meet the ministers in ‘‘ the little kirk,” where they,
amidst great uproar, came to a resolution to urge
upon James the necessity for changing his policy and
dismissing his present councillors. The progress
of the deputation towards the place where the
king was to be found brought with it the noisy
mob who had created the tumult, and when the
bold expressions of the deputation were seconded
by the rush of a rude crowd-armed, of course ... Giles’s Church. was a place frequently assigned in bills for the payment of money. The transept, called at ...

Vol. 1  p. 144 (Rel. 0.52)

West Church.] THE LOTHIAN ROAD. =37
towards Bruntsfield Links, had long been projected,
but owing to the objections raised by the
proprietors of many barns, byres, and sheds which
stood in the way, the plan could not be matured,
till after several years of trouble and speculation j
in length by twenty paces in breadth." This
scheme he concerted with address, and executed
with nautical promptitude It happened to be the
winter season, when many men were unemployed.
He had no difficulty in collecting several hundreds
ST. CUTHBERT'S CHURCH.
and when at last the proposal was about to be of these at the Kirkbraehcad upon the appointed
agreed to by the opposing parties, the broad and ' morning before sunrise, when he gave them all a
stately road was-to the surprise of the public and ' plentiful breakfast of porter, whisky, and bread and
mortification of the opposition-made in one day ! cheese, after which, just as the sun rose, he ordered
'' some to tear down' en-
John Clerk, Bart., of Pennicuik (an' officer: of't'hc ! dlosuresi others to unroof and demolish cottages,
in 1784). laid a bet with a friend to the effect I with to fill up the natural hollow (near the church-
" that he. would, between sunrise and sunset, ' yard gate) to the required height. The inhabitants,
execute the line of road, extending nearly a mile 1 dismayed at so vast a force and so summary a
It so happened that a gentleman, said to be! Sir. 1 th,e% ,to* set to, work
royal navy, who succeeded his father, Sir George, I and a considerahle portion to bring' earth where-
66 ... Church.] THE LOTHIAN ROAD. =37 towards Bruntsfield Links, had long been projected, but owing to the ...

Vol. 3  p. 137 (Rel. 0.52)

PAGE
Trinity College Church (restored) . . . . 289
Victoria Street and Terrace, from George Iv. Bridge. 293
George IV. Bridge . . . . Tofacej~ge 295
Plan for opening a communication between the North
and South sides of the City by a Bridge, entering
St. Augustine’s Church . . . . . * 292
the Lawnmarket nearly opposite Bank Street . 296
St. Mary’s Wynd, from the Pleasance . . , .
Doorhead in St. Mary’s Wynd (the oldest extant), built
into the Catholic Institute . . . . .
Cowgate Port . . . - . . . .
Old Collegiate Seals, Trinity College Church . .
Trinity College Church, and part of Trinity Hospital ,
Trinity College Church, with Church Officer’s House,
and part of Trinity Hospital . - . .
Seal and Autograph of Mary of Gueldres . . -
Ground Plan of Trinity College Church, 1814 . .
Trinity Hospital . . . . . . .
Trinity Church and Hospital, and Neighbourhood .
Major Weir’s Land . . . . . . .
Assembly Rooms, West Bow, looking towards the
Lawnmarket . . . . . . .
Assembly Rooms, West Bow . . . . .
Mahogany Land . . . . . . .
Romieu’a House . . . . . . .
Old Houses, West Bow . . . . . .
Provost Stewart’s Land, West Bow . . . .
PAGE
fie Castle Road , , . ’ . . , . 328
Charles Edward in his Youth . . - * 329
The Weigh-House . . ~ , . . 332
Charles Edward in his later years . . . . 333
Palace of Mary of Guise, Castle Hill . , . . 336
The North Bridge and the Bank of Scotland, 1809
TOPcepage 337
297
3w
301
303
304
305
306
308
309
3‘2
3’3
316
3’7
320
32 1
324
325
George Drummond, Lord Provost , . . .
AdamBlack . . . . . . . . .
View from the back of Shakespeare Square . .
The OldTheatre Royal . . . . . .
Mr. Clinch and Mrs. Yates as the Duke and Duchess
of Braganza , . . . . . .
The Old Theatre Royal, in process of Demolition .
The Post Office in Waterloo Place . . . .
The General Post Office, Edinburgh . . . .
The Orphan Hospital . . . . . .
Dr. John Hope. . . . . . . .
The Register House . , . . . . .
Antiquarian Room, Register House . . . .
Dome Room, or Library, Register House . . .
The Wellington Statue, RegisterHouse . . .
Watt Institution and School of Arts, Adam Square .
Surgeon Square . . . - . . .
Old Surgeon’s Hall, f r m tlxe North, the Flodden
Wall in the Background . . . . .
DmieDeans’ Cottage - . . . .
34 1
344
345
349
352
353
356
35 7
361
364
365
368
369
373
377
3%
38 ‘
383
PAUL’S WORK.
(Tke mmff in which Sir Waltcr Scoft cowected Jus proofs1 ... College Church (restored) . . . . 289 Victoria Street and Terrace, from George Iv. Bridge. ...

Vol. 2  p. 394 (Rel. 0.52)

OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Leith Wynd. 304
of the building, among these; on a buttress, at the
west angle of the southern transept, was a shield,
with the arms of Alexander Duke of Albany, who,
at Mary’s death, was resident at the Court of
the Duke of Gueldres. Among the grotesque
details of this church the monkey was repeated
many times, especially among the gurgoyles, and
crouching monsters, as corbels or brackets, seemed
in agony under the load they bore.
the entire teeth in the jaws, were found on the
demolition of the church in 1840. They were
placed in a handsome crimson velvet coffin, and
re-interred at Holyrood. Portions of her original
coffin are preserved in the Museum of Antiquities.
Edinburgh could ill spare so fine an example of
ecclesiastical architecture as this church, which was
long an object of interest, and latterly of regret;
for “it is with some surprise,” says a writer,
TRINITY COLLEGE CHURCH, AND PART OF TRINITY HOSPITAL (TO THE RIGHT.
[Afn a Draw.ng @ Clerk of Eldin, 1780.1
Uthrogal, in Monimail, was formerly a leper
hospital, and with the lands of Hospital-Milne, in
the adjoining parish of Cults, was (as the Statistical
Account of Scotland says) given by Mary of
Gueldres to the Trinity Hospital, and after the
suppression, it went eventually to the Earls of
Leven. According to Sir Robert Sibbald, the
parish church of Easter Wemyss, in Fife, also
belonged ‘‘ to the Collegiata Sancta Trinitis de
Edinburgh.”
,The parish churches of Soutra, Fala, Lampetlaw,
Kirkurd, Ormiston, and Gogyr, together with
the lands of Blance, were annexed to it in 1529.
The tomb of the foundress lay in the centre of
what was the Lady Chapel, or the sacristy of old,
latterly the vestry ; and therein her bones, with
“that the traveller, just as he emerges from the
temporary-looking sheds and fresh timber and
plaster-work of. the railway offices, finds himself
hurried along a dusky and mouldering collection of
buttresses, pinnacles, niches, and Gothic windows,
as striking a contrast to the scene of fresh bustle
and new life, as could well be ‘conceived ; but the
vision is a brief one, and the more usual concomitants
of railways-a succession of squalid houses,
and a tunnel-immediately succeed it”
In 1502 the establishment was enlarged by the
addition of a dean and subdean, for whose support
the college received a gift of the rectory of the
parish church of Dunnottar; and owing to the
unsettled state of the country, it would appear that
Sir Edward Bonkel, the first Provost, had to apply ... AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Leith Wynd. 304 of the building, among these; on a buttress, at the west angle of the ...

Vol. 2  p. 304 (Rel. 0.52)

church was accordingly built for them, at the
expense, says h o t , of Az,400 sterling. A portion
of this consisted of zo,ooo merks, left, in 1649, by
Thomas Moodie, a citizen, called by some Sir
Thomas Moodie of Sauchtonhall, to rebuild the
church partially erected on the Castle -Hill, and
demolished by the English during the siege of 1650.
Two ministers were appointed to the Canongate
church. The well-known Dr. Hugh Blair and the
THE CANONGATE CHURCH.
splendid scabbard. This life is full of contrasts ; so
when the magistrates, in ermine and gold, took
their seats behind this sword of state in the front
gallery, on the right of the minister, and in the
gallery, too, were to be seen congregated the
humble paupers from the Canongate poorhouse,
now divested of its inmates and turned into a
hospital. Our dear old Canongate, too, had its
, Baron Bailie and Resident Bailies before the
late Principal Lee have been among the incumbents.
It is of a cruciform plan, and has the summit of
its ogee gable ornamented with the crest of the
burgh-the stag’s head and cross of King David’s
legendary adventure-and the arms of Thomas
Moodie form a prominent ornament in front of i t
“ In our young days,” says a recent writer in a local
paper, “the Incorporated Trades, eight in number,
occupied pews in the body of the church, these
having the names of the occupiers painted on them;
and in mid-summer, when the Town Council visited
it, as is still their wont, the tradesmen placed large
bouquets of flowers on their pews, and as our
sittings were near this display, we used to glance
with admiration from the flowers up to the great
sword standing erect in the front gallery in its
Reform Bill in 1832 ruthlessly swept them away.
Halberdiers, or Lochaber-axe-men, who turned out
on all public occasions to grace the officials, were
the civic body-guard, together with a body in plain
clothes, whose office is on the ground flat under
the debtors’ jail.”
But there still exists the convenery of the Canongate,
including weavers, dyers, and cloth-dressers,
&c., as incorporated by royal charter in 1630,
under Charles I.
In the burying-ground adjacent to the church,
and which was surrounded by trees in 1765, lie
the remainsof Dugald Stewart, the great philosopher,
of Adam Smith, who wrote the “Wealth of Nations
; ” Dr. Adam Fergusson, the historian of the
Roman Republic; Dr. Burney, author of the ... was accordingly built for them, at the expense, says h o t , of Az,400 sterling. A portion of this ...

Vol. 3  p. 29 (Rel. 0.52)

PHE KIRK-OF-FIELD. (Alto an Etching by /awes Skenc cf Rubirlaw).
OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH.
CHAPTER I.
THE KIRK OF ST. MARY-IN-THE-FIELDS.
Memorabilia of the Edifice-Its Age-Altars-hfade Collegiate-The Prebendal Buildings--Ruined-The House of the Kirk of-Field-The
hfurder of Darnley-Robert Balfour, the Last Provost.
WE now come to the scene of one of the most
astounding events in European history-the spot
where Henry, King of Scotland, was murdered in
the lonely house attached to the Kirk-of-Field, one of
the many fanes dedicated to St. Mary in Edinburgh,
where their number was great of old.
When, or by whom, the church of St. Mary-inthe-
Fields was founded is alike unknown. In the
taxation of the ecclesiastical benefices in the archdeaconry
of Lothian, found in the treasury of
Durham, and written in the time of Edward I. of
England, there appears among the churches belonging
to the abbey of Holyrood, EccZesia Sand&
Mariiz in Cam&
This was beyond doubt what was at a later
period the collegiate church of St. Mary-in-the-
Fields, and the few notices concerning which are
very meagre ; but thus it must have existed in the
thirteenth century, when all the district to the south
07
of it was covered with oaks to the base of the hills
of Braid and Blackford. It took its name from
being completely in the fields, beyond the wall of
1450. In the view of the city engraved in 1544, it is
shown to have been a large cruciform church, with
a tall tower in the centre ; and this representation
of it is to a great extent repeated in a view found in
the State Paper Office (drawn after the murder of
Darnley), of which a few copies have been circulated,
and which shows its pointed windows and
buttresses.
Among the property belonging to the foundation
was a tenement at the foot of the modem Blair
Street, on the west side, devoted to the altar of St.
Katharine in this now defunct church ; and in the
“ Inventory of Pious Donations,” preserved in the
Advocates’ Library (quoted by Wilson), there is a
“ mortification I’ by Janet Kennedy, Lady Bothwell,
to the chaplain of the Kirk-of-Field of “her fore ... KIRK-OF-FIELD. (Alto an Etching by /awes Skenc cf Rubirlaw). OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. CHAPTER I. THE KIRK OF ...

Vol. 5  p. 1 (Rel. 0.49)

THE FREE CHURCH COLLEGE. 97 The Mound]
one persons ;61,ooo each, a sum which more than
sufficed to purchase the site of the college-the
old Guise Palace, with its adjacent closes-and to
erect the edifice, while others were built at
Glasgow and Aberdeen.
Plans by W. H. Playfair, architect, were prepared
and adopted, after a public competition had
been resorted to, and the new buildings were at
once proceeded with. The foundation stone was
iaid on the 4th of June, 1846, by Dr. Chalmers,
~ The stairs on the south side of the quadrangle
lead to the Free Assembly Hall, on the exact site
of the Guise Palace. It was erected from designs
by David Bryce, at a cost of A7,000, which was
collected by ladies alone belonging to the Free
Church throughout Scotland.
The structure was four years in completion, and
was opened on the 6th of November, 1850,under the
sanction of the Commission of the Free General
Assembly, by their moderator, Dr. N. Paterson,
LIBRARY OF THE FREE CHURCH COLLEGE. (Fwm o P/wtozm#h by G. W. Wi&on and Co.)
exactly one year previous to the day which saw his
remains consigned to the tomb. The ultimate cost
was ;646,506 8s. Iod., including the price of the
ground, Ero,ooo.
The buildings are in the English collegiate style,
combining the common Tudor with somd of the later
Gothic They form an open quadrangle (entered
by a handsome groined archway), 165 feet from
east to west and 177 from south to north, including
on the east the Free High Church. The edifice
has two square towers (having each four crocketed
pinnacles), IZI feet in height, buttressed at the
corners from base to summit. There is a third
tower, 95 feet in height. The college contains
seven great class-rooms, a senate hall, a students'
hall, and a library, the latter adorned with a
statue of Dr, Chalmers as Principal, by Steel
61
who delivered a sermon and also a special address
to the professors and students. Subsequently, this
inaugural sermon and the introductory lectures
delivered on the same occasion to their several
classes by Professors Cunningham, Buchanan,
Bannerman, Duncan, Black, Macdougal, Fraser,
and Fleming, were published in a volume, as a
record of that event.
The constitution of this college is the same as
that of the Free Church colleges elsewhere. The
Acts of Assembly provide for vesting college
property and funds, for the election of professors,
and for the general management and superintendence
of college business. The college buildings
are vested in trustees appointed by the Church.
A select committee is also appointed bp the
j General Assembly, consisting of " eleven ministers ... FREE CHURCH COLLEGE. 97 The Mound] one persons ;61,ooo each, a sum which more than sufficed to purchase the ...

Vol. 3  p. 97 (Rel. 0.49)

Holyrood. 
 THE ABBEY PILLAGED. 57
troops retnrned to complete the destruction of the
abbey, which in the interval had been completely
repaired, and their proceedings are thus recorded
by one of themselves, Patten, in his account of
the expedition into Scotland :-‘‘ Thear stood to the
westward, about a quarter of a mile from our
campe, a monasterie; they call it Hollyroode Abbey.
brought to the abbey by Abbot Bellenden were
‘‘ the pet bellis and the gret brasin fownt.”
During the civil wars in the time of Charles I.
this relic was converted into money by the Puritans,
and in all probability was utterly destroyed.
After the battle of Pinkie, in 1547, the English
As touching the moonkes, becaus they wear gone,
These repeated destructions at the hands of n
wanton enemy, rather than any outrages by the Reformers,
were the chief cause that now we find
nothing remaining of the church but the fragment
of one tower and the shattered nave ; though much
. they put them to their pencions at large.”
sioners, making first theyr visitacion there, they
found the moonkes all gone, but the church and
mooch parts of the house well covered with leacie.
Soon after thei pluct of the leade and had down
the bels, which wear but two, and, according to the
statute, did somewhat hearby disgrace the hous. ... THE ABBEY PILLAGED. 57 troops retnrned to complete the destruction of the abbey, which in the ...

Vol. 3  p. 57 (Rel. 0.47)

184 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Broughton.
been placed along both sides of a road that ran
east and west; those on the south being more
detached, spread away upward nearly to York
Place. The western end of the hamlet was demolished
when the present Broughton market
was constructed. From that portion, which had
been a kind of square, a path led through the
fields, where now London Street stands, to Canonmills.
One by one the cottages have disappeared, in
their rude construction, with forestairs and loopbuilding
with a graceful spire 180 feet high. It
was erected on the site of an ancient quarry,
1859-61, after designs by J. F. Rocheid, at the
cost of ;613,000, and is in a mixed later English
and Tudor style.
Heriot’s school, also on the west side of the
street, is one of the elementary institutions which
the governors of George Heriot’s Hospital were
empowered by Act of Parliament to erect from
their surplus revenues., It is attended by about
3,400 boys and girls, and rises from a spacious and
BROUGHTON BURN, 1850. From a Dmwiw by William Ckanniag, iff tkt hssessim of Dr. 3. A, .‘?,,+,.)
hole windows, contrasting strongly with the new
and fashionable streets that have replaced them.
In the modern Broughton Street is a plain Ionic
edifice, long used as a place of worship by the
disciples of Edward Irving, and near it, at the
south-east angle of Albany Street,.-the Independent
church was built in 1816, at a cost of A4,000, and
improved in 1867 at a cost of more than A200; a
plain and unpretending edifice.
The Gaelic church, which adjoins the Independent
church, is the old Catholic Apostolic,
which was bought in 1875 for about &~,ooo, improved
for about _f;2,000, and opened in October
1876.
SL Mary’s Free church is a beautiful Gothic
airy arcade, under which they can play in wet
weather.
At the south-west corner of Broughton Place is
St. James’s Episcopal chapel, which, in architecture
externally, is assimilated with the houses of the
street. It was built in 1829, and has attached to
it, on the north, a neat school, built in 1869.
Fronting Broughton Place, and at the eastern end
thereof, stands the United Presbyterian church,
built in 1821, at the cost of A7,ogg. It is a
spacious edifice, with a very handsome tetrastyle
Doriciportico, and underwent repairs in 1853 and
1870, at the united cost of A4,ooo. It is chiefly
remarkable as the scene of the ministrations of the
late Dr. John Brown. ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Broughton. been placed along both sides of a road that ran east and west; those on ...

Vol. 3  p. 184 (Rel. 0.47)

1230 by King Alexander II., and in its earliest charters
named Mansio Re@, as he had bestowed upon
the monks a royal residence as their abode.
The church built by Alexander was a large cruufsrm
edifice with a central rood-tower and lofty
spire. It was renowned for king the scene of the
SIR JAMES PALSHAW, BART., AND H.m. LIEUTENANT OP EDINBURGH.
(Fmm a Photograph ay 3~ha Meffat.)
bishop of Glasgow and Lord High Chancellor,
fled from the Douglases during the terrible street
conflict or tulzie in 1519, and, as Pitscottie records,
was dragged “ out behind the altar, and his rocki:
riven aff him, and had been slake,” had not Gavin
Douglas, Bishop of Dunkeld, interceded for him:
in the realm, summoned in 1512 by the Pipal
Legate, Cardinal Bagimont, who presided. In
this synod, says Balfour, all ecclesiastical benefices
exceeding forty pounds per annum were taxed in
the payment of ten pounds to the Pope by way of
pension, and to the King of Scotland such a tax as
he felt disposed to levy. This valuation, which
is still known by the name of Bagimont‘s Roll,
was made thereafter the standard for taxing the
Scottish ecclesiastics at the Vatican.
It was to this church that James Beaton, Archcrate
bishop.” And here we may remark that the
Scottish word fulzie, used by us so often, is derived
from the French t&ifi--n; to confuse, or to mix
The monastery was destroyed by an accidental
fire in 1528, but the church would seem to have
been uninjured by the view of it in 1544, though
no doubt it would suffer, like all the others in the
city, at the hands of the English in that year.
In 1552 the Provost and Council ordered Alex.
Park, city treasurer, to deliver to “the Dene of
Gild x li., that he may thairwith pay the Blak ... by King Alexander II., and in its earliest charters named Mansio Re@, as he had bestowed upon the monks a ...

Vol. 4  p. 285 (Rel. 0.47)

305 Leith Wynd.1 THE DUCHESS OF LENNOX
Pont, an illustrious Venetian who came to Scotland
in the train of Mary of Guise-the last Provost of
Trinity, in 1585, sold all the remaining rights that
he had in the foundation, which James VI. confirmed
by charter two years afterwards. When the
old religion was abolished, the revenues of the
church amounted to only A362 Scots yearly.
Its seal, Scotland and Gueldres quarterly, is
beautifully engraved among the Holyrood charters.
In May, 1592, Sophia Ruthven, the young Duchess
of Lennox, was buried with great solemnity at the
east end of the church. She wss a daughter of the
luckless Earl of Gowrie, who died in 1584 andwas
forcibly abducted from a house in Easter Wemyss,
where she had been secluded to secure her from
the violence of the Duke’s passion. But he carried
to Parliament for assistance, to enforce the payment
of his rents in Teviotdale.
In June, 1526, its Provost sat in Parliament. In
1567 the Earl of Moray, then Regent of Scotland,
gave to Sir Simon Preston of Craigmillar, then
Provost of the City, the Trinity College church with
all that belonged to it ; and the latter bestowed it
on the city. Robert Pont-an eminent churchman,
judge, and miscellaneous writer, the son of John de
18th of December, 1596, by her will, dated 9th of
that month, bequeathed IOO merks to the Trinity
College church, for a “burial1 place there.
The church and other prebendal buildings
suffered with the other religious houses in the city
during the tumults of the Reformation, and, according
to Nicoll, in later years, at the hands of Cromwell’s
sordiers. While trenching the edifice, seeking
for the remains of the Queen, those of many others,
all Iong before violated and disturbed, were found,
together with numbers of bullocks’ horns, and an
incredible quantity of sheep-head bones, and fmgments
of old Flemish quart bottles, the de’bris
doubtless of the repasts of the workmen of 1462 ;
and every stone in the building bore those marks
with which all freemasons are familiar.
~ her OE on his own horse in the night, and married i her in defiance of king and kirk. This was on
the 19th of April, 1591, consequently she did not
long survive her abduction.
Lady Jane Hamilton, youngest daughter of the
Duke of Chatelherault, and Countess of the Earl of
Eglinton, from whom she was divorced, in consequence
of the parties standing in the fourth degree
of consanguinity, who died at Edinburgh on the ... Leith Wynd.1 THE DUCHESS OF LENNOX Pont, an illustrious Venetian who came to Scotland in the train of Mary of ...

Vol. 2  p. 305 (Rel. 0.47)

256 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Leith.
sion opposite to the church of St. Ninian, but is
now rebuilt into a modern edifice in Cobourg Street.
In Robertson’s map, depicting Leith with its
fortifications, 1560 (partly based upon Greenville
Collins’s, which we have reproduced on p. 176),
the church of Nicholas is shown between the sixth
and seventh bastions, as a cruciform edifice, with
choir, nave, and transepts, measuring about 150 feet
in length, by 80 feet across the latter, and distant
only IOO feet from the Short Sand, or old sea margin.
the patron of seamen,” says Robertson, “we may
infer that Leith at a very early period was a sea
St. Nicholas, the confessor, was a native of Lycia,
who died in the year 342, according to the Bollandists.
He was assumedas the patron of Venice
and many other seaports, and is usually represented
with an anchor at his side and a ship in the background,
and, in some instances, as the patron of
commerce, In Mrs. Jameson’s “Sacred and
port town.”
ST. NINIAN’S CHURCHYARD.
The church, or chapel, with the hospital of
St. Nicholas, is supposed to have been founded
at some date later than the chapel of Abbot Balhntyne,
as the reasons assigned by him for building
it seemed to imply that the inhabitants were
without any accessible place of worship ; but when
or by whom it was founded, the destruction of
neatly all ecclesiastical records, at the Reformation,
renders it even vain to surmise.
Nothing nom can be known of their origin, and
the last vestiges of them were swept away when
Monk built his citadel.
They were, of course, ruined by Hertford in his
first invasion, “and from the circumstance of the
church in the citadel being dedicated to St. Nicholas,
Legendary Art,” she mentions two : ‘‘ a seaport
with ships in the distance ; St. Nicholas in his episcopal
robes (as Archbishop of Myra), stands by
as directing the whole;” and a storm at sea, in
which “St. Nicholas appears as a vision above ; in
one hand he holds a lighted taper ; with the other
he appears to direct the course of the vessel.’’
To this apostle of ancient manners had the
old edifice in North Leith been dedicated, when
the site whereon it stood was an open and sandy
eminence, overlooking a waste of links to the northward,
and afterwards encroached on by the sea ;
and its memory is still commemorated in a narrow
and obscure alley, called St. Nicholas Wynd,
according to Fullarton’s ‘‘ Gazetteer,” in 1851. ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Leith. sion opposite to the church of St. Ninian, but is now rebuilt into a modern ...

Vol. 6  p. 256 (Rel. 0.47)

survivors of the corps would make their last actual
appearance in public at the laying of the foundation
of his monument, on the 15th of August, 1840.
The last captain of the Guard was James Burnet,
their ancestors and successors, were attached to
most royal foundations, and they are mentioned in
the chartulary of Moray, about 1226. The number
of these Bedesmen was increased by one every
CHAPTER XV.
THE CHURCH OF ST. GILES.
St. Giles’s Church-The Patron Saint-Its Origin and early Norman style-The Renovation of &-History of the Structure-Procession of the
Saint’s Relics-The Preston Relic-The Chapel of the Duke of Albmy-Funeral of the Regent Murray-The “Gude Regent’s Aisle”-
The Assembly Aisle-Dispute between James VI. and the Church Party-Departure of James VI.-Haddo’s Hole-The Napicr Tomb-
The Spire and lantern-Clock and Bells-The KramesRestoration of 1878.
THE church of St. Giles, or Sanctus Egidius, as
he is termed in Latin, was the first parochial one
erected in the city, and its history can be satisfactorily
deduced from the early part of the 12th
century, when it superseded, or was engrafted on
an edifice of much smaller size and older date,
one founded about‘ IOO years after the death of
its patron saint, the abbot and confessor St. Giles,
who was born in Athens, of noble-some say royal
-parentage, and who, while young, sold his patrimony
and left his native country, to the end that
he might serve God in retirement. In the year
666 he amved at Provence, in the south of France,
and chose a retreat near Arles; but afterwards,
desiring more perfect solitude, he withdrew into a
forest near Gardo, in the diocese of Nismes, havjng
with him only one companion, Veredemus, who
lived with him on the fruits of the earth and the
milk of a hind. As Flavius Wamba, King of the
Goths, was one day hunting in the neighbourhood
of Nismes, his hounds pursued her to the hermitage
of the saint, where she took refuge. This hind
has been ever associated with St. Giles, and its
figure is to this day the sinister supporter of the
city arms. ( ‘ I Caledonia,” ii., p. 773.) St. Giles
died in 721, on the 1st of September, which was
always held as his festival in Edinburgh; and to some
disciple of the Benedictine establishment in the
south of France we doubtless owe the dedication
of the parish church there. , He owes his memory
in the English capital to Matilda of Scotland,
queen of Henry I., who founded there St. Giles’s
hospital for lepers in I I 17. Hence, the large parish
which now lies in the heart of London took its name ... of the corps would make their last actual appearance in public at the laying of the foundation of his ...

Vol. 1  p. 138 (Rel. 0.47)

GASSELL, PETTER h GALPlll k CO LITH.LONDON.
ST. GILES’S CHURCH.
E. Old Record Room.
2. Entrance to Old Record Rwm
3. Northern Doorway.
4. Northern Transept. ... PETTER h GALPlll k CO LITH.LONDON. ST. GILES’S CHURCH. E. Old Record Room. 2. Entrance to Old Record ...

Vol. 6  p. 188 (Rel. 0.46)

‘‘ are decayit, and made some sheep-folds, and some
sa ruinous that none dare enter into thame for
fear of falling, especially Halyrud HOUS, althocht
the Bishop of Sanct Androw’s, in time of Papistry,
INTERIOR OF THE CHAPEL ROYAL OF HOLYROOD HOUSE, 1687- (AflW Wyck a d p. Mad;.)
abbacy in favour of his son before 1583, and died
in 1593. He was interred near the third pillar
from the south-east corner, on the south side of the
church.
up and repairt.” To this Bothwell answered that
the churches referred to had been pillaged and
ruined before his time, especially Holyrood I
Church, “quhilk hath been thir tnintie yeris 1
bygane ruinous through decay of twa principal
pillars, sa that none wer assurit under it,” and that
two thousand pounds would not be sufficient for
24th February, 1581, and was a Lord of Session
in 1593. In 1607 part of the abbey property,
together with the monastery itself, ,vas converted
into a temporal peerage for him and his heirs, by
the title of Lord Holyroodhouse. John Lord
Bothwell died without direct heirs male, and
though the title shouldhave descended to his brother ... are decayit, and made some sheep-folds, and some sa ruinous that none dare enter into thame for fear of ...

Vol. 3  p. 49 (Rel. 0.46)

OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Rimarton. 3 2 0
1) OLD SAUGHTON BRIDGE ; 2, OLD SAUGHTON HOUSE ; 3, BARNTON HOUSE ; 4, CRAMOND CHURCH ... AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Rimarton. 3 2 0 1) OLD SAUGHTON BRIDGE ; 2, OLD SAUGHTON HOUSE ; 3, BARNTON HOUSE ; 4, ...

Vol. 6  p. 320 (Rel. 0.46)

OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Corstrophinc
- ~- I
CRAIGCROOK IN THE PRESENT DAY.
than doubled all the specie circulating in France,
when it was hoarded up, or sent out of the country.
Thus severe edicts were published, threatening with
dire punishment all who were in possession of Azo
of specie-edicts that increased the embarrassments
of the nation. Cash payments were stopped at the
bank, and its notes were declared to be of no value
after the 1st November, 1720. Law’s influence was
lost, his life in danger from hordes of beggared and
infuriated people. He fled from the scenes of his
splendour and disgrace, and after wandering through
various countries, died in poverty at Venice on the
zist of March, 1729. Protected by the Duchess of
Bourbon, William, a brother of the luckless comptroller,
born in Lauriston Castle, became in time a
Mardchal de Camp in France, where his descendants
have acquitted themselves with honour in
many departments of the State.
C H A P T E R XI.
CORSTORPHINE.
hrstorphine-Suppd Origin of the Name-The Hill-James VI. hunting there-The Cross-The Spa-The Dicks of Braid and Corstorphine--“
Corstorpliine Cream”-Convalt.scent House-A Wraith-The Original Chapel-The Collegiate Church-Its Provosts-Its Old
Tombs-The Castle and Loch of Corstorphine-The Forrester Family.
CORSTORPHINE, with its hill, village, and ancient
church, is one of the most interesting districts of
Edinburgh, to which it is now nearly joined by lines
of villas and gas lamps. Anciently it was called
Crosstorphyn, and the name has proved a puzzle to
antiquarians, who have had sonie strange theories
on the subject of its origin.
By some it is thought to have obtained its name
from the circumstance of a golden cross-Croix
d’orjn-having been presented to the church by
a French noble, and hence Corstorphine; and
an obscure tradition of some such cross did once
exist. According to others, the name signified
‘‘ the milk-house under the hill,’’ a wild idea in ... AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Corstrophinc - ~- I CRAIGCROOK IN THE PRESENT DAY. than doubled all the specie ...

Vol. 5  p. 112 (Rel. 0.46)

-48 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. WolJlmd
mted with several mouldings, partly circular and
partly hexagonal. The eagle stands upon a globe,
and the shaft has been originally supported on
three feet, which are now gone. The lectern at
present is five feet seven inches in height, and is
inscribed :-“GEORGIUS CREICHTOUN, EPISCOPUS
DUNKENENSIS.”
He died on January 24th, 1543, and the probability
is that the lectern had been presented to
Holyrood on his elevation to Dunkeld as a farewell
’ 1523. He had been previously provost of the
collegiate church of Corqtorphine, and was twice
High Treasurer, in 1529 and 1537. In 1538 he
was elected Bishop of KOSS, and held that office,
together with the Abbacy of Ferne, till his death,
jrst November, 1545.
XXIX ROBERT STUART, of Strathdon, a son.of
James V. by Eupham Elphinstone, had a grant of
the abbacy when only seven years of age, and in
manhood he joiiied the Reformation party, in 1559.
THE ABBEY CHURCH. (From an Engravitigin Maitlads “History of Edinbaq-4.”)
gift, and that it had been stolen from the abbey
by Sir Richard Lea of Sopwell, who accompanied
the Earl of Hertford in the invasion of 1544, and
who carried off the famous brazen font from Holy-
TOO^, and presented it to the parish church of St.
Albans, with a magniloquent inscription. ‘‘ This
font, which was abstracted from Holyrood, is no
longer known to exist, and there seems no reason
to doubt that the lectern, which was saved by
being buried during the Civil Wars, was abstracted
at the same time, and given to the church of St.
hlbans by the donor of the font.’’
XXVII. WILLIAM DOUGLAS, Prior of Coldingham,
was the next abbot.
XXVIII. ROBERT CAIRNCROSS,abbot September
He died in r5z8.
He married in 1561, and received from his sister,
Queen Mary, a gift of some Crown lands in
Orkney and Shetland in 1565, with a large grant
out of the queen’s third of Holyrood in the following
year. In 1569 he exchanged his abbacy with
Adam Bishop of Orkney for the temporalities of
that see, and his lands in Orkney and Shetland
were erected into an earldom in his favour 28th
October, 1581.
XXX. ADAM BOTHWELL, who acquired the
abbacy in commendam by this strange and lawless
compact, did not find his position a very quiet one,
and several articles against him were presented in
the General Assembly in 1570. The fifth of these
stated that all the twenty-seven churches of the ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. WolJlmd mted with several mouldings, partly circular and partly hexagonal. The eagle ...

Vol. 3  p. 48 (Rel. 0.44)

GENERAL INDEX. 371
118-121 ; tomb of, Corstorphine
Church, 111. 121
Forrester’s Wynd, I. 121. 122, 148,
219, 11. 105 239 111. 118 124
Forster Geheh i11. I I &Z
Forth And Bredtford. k r l of. I.
54
The, 111. 292-294
brother, ib.
the, 11. 346, 363
111. 90, 124
11. 176, 111. go
111. 311
288 111. 318, 323
111. 106, 323
Forth Street, 11. I, 185 ‘go
Fortifications of fnchkeith Island,
Fortune, Matthew, 111. go; hk
‘I Fortunes of Nigel,” Allusions tc
Fortune’s I‘avern, I. 231, 234, 267>
Fortune’s Tontine, Princes Street,
Fothergll, Dr., physician, 11. 3oa,
Foulis of Colinton, Sir James, 11.
Fouli of Ravelston, Family of,
Foulis of Ravelston, Sir James,
Foulis of Woodhall, Sir Jurres, the
Foulis &ily, ’?he, 111. 323
Foulis’s Close 11. 159
Fountain bedre Holyrood Palace,
Fountakbridge, 11. 132, 215, 218,
Fountain Close, I. 276, 277, 11. 147
Fountain Well, The, I. 144, ZIO
Fountainhall, Lord, I. 58, 60, 97,
146, 160, 169, 170, 202, 238, 251,
270, 11. 28, 34, 35. 44 59, 75, 81,
2x7, 223, 225, aa6, Sa1, 315,
111. 267
painter 111. 5
11. 79 *81
2x9, 221, 222
346, 367, 111. 13, 42, 46, 1201 150s
‘55,330
Fawkes, Brigadier, I. 32% 111.
Fowler, W i l l i , House of, I. 102
236 .
Fowler’s Close, 1. 276
Fox‘s Holes, The, 11. 313
Franc& Bell’s Close, 11. 241
Frank, Capture of Edinburgh
Castle by William, I..z+
Franklin’s, Benjamin, visit to Edinburgh
11. 282
Fraser, hexander, Lord Strichen,
Fraser, Alexander (see Gilles ie)
Fraser, Luke, of the High &hool,
Fraser Major Andrew 11. 139 ~t)
Fraser’ Tytler, Lard Woodhduse-
F&r Simon 111. 351
Frase;of Beahrt, I. 66
Fraser of Strichen Mrs 11, 163
Fraser the music& I.’;~o
Frederkk Street 11. 151, 162;
famous reside&, 11. 162
Free Assembly Hall 11. 97
Free Church Colleg;?, I. 86, 11. 95
s6, 97, IF Phte 18 ; library oi
the, 11. 97, 9; its donors, 11.
1.054
11. 2 9 4 7 295, 327
lee U. 110
98
Free Church of Scotland, Offices of
FreeChurcR, Founding of the, I I. 144
Free Church of St. John 1. 310
Free Gardeners of bmughton
Free General Assembly 11. I
FIK St. Cuthbert’sChirch, 41. 215
Fw Tron Church, 11. 275
French ambassador’s chapel, Cowgate,
11. 258 *z60
French influe;= in the Scottish
court, 1. 44
French prisoners, The Castle a
receptacle for 1. 71,78; attempted
escape oc II.’248
Friars’ Wynd, I. 219
Friends of the People, Treasonable
practices of the, 11. 236,237, 343,
111. 67, 278.
Friends’ meeting-house I. 381
Fullertan, Mansion oi Adam, I.
Fynd Marison on the manners of
Fynie, Agnes, the supped witch,
Fyvie, Alexander Lord, I. 167;
the, 11. 5
barony, 11. 183
277 278
I1.330,331
Provost, 11. a80
the Edinburgh people, I. 198
G
Gabriel’r Road 11. 114, 115, 117,
Gace,’M.de, and Edinburgh Castle,
Gaelic church, The, 11. 184, 235
171 182, I I I . ’ ~ ~
I. 67
25+ 274
Gaelic Free Church 11. 214
Gainsborough, the hinter, 11. 89
Gairdner Dr. 11. 335
Gairns o/Gre&hill Adam 111. 47
Galachlaw Hill, Liberton, h I , 33c
Gallery of the kings, Holyrood
Galloway, Alexander Oar1 of, 11.
257; his wife’s ostentatious dis.
play, ib.
Galloway House, 11. 257
Callowlee, The, 1-117,118, 11. 115,
111. 151, 154, 1551 15% 157
Gallows The 11. *z 3
Galt, tie ndvelist, 41. 142, 2o0,
111. 74
“Garb of Old Caul,” the air, 11.
Gardenstone, Lord, I. 171.172 11.
rza, III. 75 ; his passion foriigs,
Palace, 11. 74, 76, 77. 79
244, 111. 26
1. 172
Gardiner, Colonel I. 324
Gardiner‘s CresceAt 11. 215
Gamock the CoLenanter and
others’ I. 160 161, 298, IIi. 156
Garrick’David’II. 23 III.z4o,z41
Gas, F k t ‘use’of, in’ Edinburgh,
I. 203
GateTower I. g
Gavin Do&, %ishopofDunkid,
I. 39 263, 11. 251 255 285
Gavin kamilton, Aibot bf Kilwinning,
I. 298
Gavinloch’s Land, I. 327
Gawin Dunbar I. 42 15
Gay, the wt’I I& J? , 38;
house wRere‘h; lived k $\7
Gayfie? House, II.136,161, 185,
111. 165
Gaytield Place 111. 161 162
Gaytield Squak 11. 284, 111. SI,
Ged, ;he inventor of stereotyping,
Geddes, Alexander, artist, I. 366,
11. ‘87
Geddes, MurderofJames, I. xg4,1gs
Geddes Jenny I. 51 744 111.184;
riots ’on acciunt df, I.’ 122 ; her
stool I. *146 11. 87
Gedde;, Robe;, Laird of Scotstoun,
I. 253
Geddes‘ Close I. 2 6
Geikie ,F’rof&r ?II. 27
General Assemhl;, The, I. go, asg,
2611 11. 39,& 797 133 135 144,
233, m%,zg8,335; meebngdf the,
Plate 13
General Assembly of the Free
Church 11. 146
General Asemblv Hall. I. 210, 11.
161 162
11. 335, 382
- , - -
230
Gyeral Post Ofice, Edinburgh, I.
General’s Entry, The, 11.327, *332,
Generals Watch Currie, 111. 331
Gentle, Bailie, I.’ 107
Gentlemen Pensioners, I. 51
Geordie Boyd’s Mud Brig, 11. 82
Geordie More, the dwarf, 111. 23
George Inn The old 11. 326,379
George Maiter of d g u s , 11. 279
George 11. Statue of I1 298
George IYI., Sub&ion of the
Jacobites to It. 247; proposed
statue to, If. 194, 270; and the
volunteers 11. 188
George IV. bridge, I. x m , 123, 217,
291,292, *293,294,378, Plate 11,
11. 238, 242, 258, asg, 262, 271,
274, 326
Georee IV.’s visit to Edinbnrrh.
357
* 333, ,345
11-108, 13, 124, 165, 287, $1;
354, 111. 74, 77. 86, 146; ~ P U -
larity of, 1. 350, 11. 5 8 ; prqlamation
of, 111. 107 ; his landing
at Leith, III. d; Chantrey’s
statue of, 11.151
George Square, I. n74,II. 95, 255,
269, 2831 333. 33-344, 345, 347,
358, 111. 142 ; view of, 11. * 341
George Street, 11. 86, 91~92, 118,
‘3P-15‘~ 153 164 165 172 173
175. III. 76; hew of, b d rg
German Church, The, 111. 88
“Giant’s Causeway,” The, 11. 144
Giants The Irish 11. IZI
Gmnt’; Brae Leilh Links 111. a&
Gibbet and h t e r y o n &ton Hill,
Gibbet Toll The 111. 211
Gibbet 11.646
Gibbet Stree;. 11. 346
11. I01
Gibbet Toll, 11. 34%; 355
Gibbs’ Close, Canongate, 11.23,227
Gibson, Sir Alexander, Abduction
of, I. 168
Gibson of Pentland, Sir Aiexander,
Gibson-Craig, Sir James, 11. ~23,
1% 111.322
Gibson-Craig, Sir W i l l i , I. 226,
111. 322
Gibson - Maitland, Sir Alexandei
Charles 11. 125
Gibson oiDurie, Thomas, I. I&)
Gibson the painter 11. go
GifforbPark 11. 3;9
Gilbert Grah‘am, painter, 11.88
Gilbertoun 111. 149, rgo
Gilchrist, hr. John Borthwick, 11.
ilderwy Execution of, I. 151
Gillespie: the Brothers, III. 3
Gikspie’s Hospital, 111. 31, H,
37,41,@ ; Black Tom’s ghost,
Gillespie’s School, 111. 33
Gillies Lord 1. 135
CilIilAd, th; goldsmith, 111. 76
Gillis Bishop, 111.45
GilloLs Close, XI. 23
Gilmerton, I. 95,155 111.158~343,
344, 346, 351 ; i& local history
111. 343 ; the manor-house of thi
Kinlochs ib
Gilmerton&&e, III. 344,345351
Gilmore Park, 11. 219
Gilmore Place United Presbyterian
Church 111. 30
GilmoursbCraigmillar,The I. 169,
111. 57, 58, 5% 338; t d i r successors.
111.61, 62
Girls’ House of Refuge 11.218
Girnel Craig, The, 11. ;13
Girthcross The 11.~,41,72,111.~
Giuglini Signor: I.. 351
Gladiatdrial exhibition at Holy.
Glcdstbne, Su John, 111.250, *qz,
Gladstone, Sir Thomas, 111.~51
Gladstnne, Right Hon. W. E., 111.
Gladstone family, The, 111. 25
Gladstone, Thomas, I. IM
Gladstone Place, Leiih, 111. 251
Gladstone’s Land, I. 19
Glammis, John Lord, 1. 83, Q
Glammis, Master of, I. zog, 210
Glasgow, Archbishops of, I. 38, ag,
“Glasgow Arms,” The, I. 178
Glasgow, Earls of I. 16 11. 339,
111.26 . Conntekof, I? 144, 239
Glasgowkcad 11.214
Glasgow Uniod Bank Company, 11.
Glass House Company, The Leith,
Glass Works, The Leith, 111. 1%
Glencairn. Earl of I. qq. 106.11.
111. 319
G335
111. 34
r o d 11. 75
314
24, 250
15% 258, 265 263
‘5’
111.280
23% “73
17 58, 73.101, 123, 1%174.
334 11
Gledcoe, Massacre of, I. 170
Glengay: the Highland chief, I.
Glenble Terrace, 111. 30
Glenlee Lord 11. a70
Glenorihy, Vi&onnt, I. 238 111.317
Glenorchy, Lady, I. 238-1247, 359
-362: 11. 338: its ministers, I.
360, 361 ; Free Church, 111.158;
the school I. 361
Glimpses of hdinbnrgh in 1783.11.
1x9
Gloucester Place. II.qg, zoo, 111.74
Glover Edmnnd, the actor I. 343
Ccdolihin, Earl of 11. 3 .I36
Godscroft thechronicler,!. 35 11.8
Gogar,II1.318;itslocalhrsfo;l,ib.
Gogar Bmk, 111. 319
-361 111. 317: Chapel Of, I. 360
Gogm Green, 111. 37
Gogm Stone village, PII. 318
Gold mines on Cravford Muir,I.&
v d e n Acre, 111.,?5
Golden Charter The, I,34,II.278
Goldie Principal’ 11. 278
Goldsrhh Olivgr, 11. 2% ; an old
tailor’s &I1 ab.
Goldsmiths &all I 274
Goldsmiths, The kdinburgh, I. 174
Golf, Nativecountry of, 11. II :.the
game of, 111. 30, 31; vanous
golf clubs, 111. 30; golf balls,
111. I1
376
Golf HGuse, III. 262, 265
Golf Tavern 111.30
Golfers, Ednburgh Compaoy oC
111. 31
260-262
Golfers’ Land 11. 10, II
Golfing on thd Linka of h i $ 111.
G d u Prof John 111.27 68
GoodsGed o<ScienAes, 111.’~
%dtrees, 111.340,3+2 ;its owners,
G& Dub The I1 346
Gordon. DAkeof, L‘b, 62, 75, 78,
8% 91, 11- 1% 1331 367, 111. 14%
258, 338,365 ; house of, 1.93
Gordon, Uuches of, I. 88, r q , 275,
367, 11. 16, SI, 27, 165, 339, 111.
1% 1549 163
Gordon, Lord Adam, 11. 311, 342,
111. 104
Gordon Lord 111. 182
C;ordoi Sir kdam 11. 76
Gordon: Sir John,’II. 159
Gordon of Cluny Colonel John,
11. 167 ; his ,Lie, 11. 218 ; the
family of, 111. 41, 42.
Gordon of Earlston, Su John, 111.
I”
“Y Gordon of Ellon James, Murder of
children of, Ii. 182
Gordon of Haddo, Sir John, I. 146,
11. 87. Sir George 111. 57
Cordon if Kindroch’I11. 182
Gordon of Lesmoir, &U Alexander,
111.161 ; his widow, 11.123~111.
16r
GordondLetterfonrie, III.zo3,w
Gordan of Newhalt I. 121
Gardon of Pitluri Si William,
Gordon Patrick I. 55
I;ordodof Rotdemay, I. 95, 187,
364r I1. 2~ 39. 731 1 0 1 2 103, 131,
133, 225, 234, 246 a68 286 302
323, 367, 37 IIi. 7 ;‘his dLds‘I
eye new ofhinburgh 11. 280,
281 Lis maps, sic Its# of
illustmtimrr .)
111. 182
192, 21% 298, P, 316, 34% 362,
Gordan, the goldsmith 111 42
Gordon, Hon. Alexander, i. 282
Gordon LadyJean I 282
Gordon’ Lady Katl$ine 111. 135
Gordo; Mn., danghte; of Prof.
Wikm 1I.1~0,156,1g5,1II.7+,75
h e , Th; river, 111. 318
ksford House, I. 1%
>orford‘s Clau, I. 118, 1x9, 11. 82,
111. 66
hurlay Robert, House of I. 116, * izo, ;z3 ; his son John, ’I. 116
hwrie, Fad of, I. 175, p5, 316,
111: 134. 135
kwrie conspiracy, 111. i34, 135
3raceMount Liberton Ill. 30
>raham, Dr. lames, th; quad, 11.
242, 310; hu lectures, 11. 342
;rah.am, General, husband of Miss
Femer 11. ‘3
:darn, j a m s eilles ie architect,
11- I79 200, 370. 11% ;5, 327
>raham, patrick, Archbishopof%.
?rabam the painter 11. go JAG Portrait ofhrx.. II. ss
; A m of Halyards, I. 195
>raham of Netherby, Sir Jamhham.
Miss Clementina Stirling,
Andrews, 11. 55
11. 162
11. zq;herpwerofpersonatioG,
11. aoB
>rammar or High School of Leith,
111. *265
>rammar School of Edinburgh, 11,
287,301
>raumont, Countess of, 11.58 ~
144 ... INDEX. 371 118-121 ; tomb of, Corstorphine Church, 111. 121 Forrester’s Wynd, I. 121. 122, 148, 219, ...

Vol. 6  p. 377 (Rel. 0.44)

was restored, but in somewhat doubtful taste, by
Thomas Hamilton, architect, and a new square
tower, terminating in a richly cusped open Gothic
balustrade, was erected at its north-western corner,
while the angles of the building were ornamented
ST. MARK’S (SOUTH LEITH) CHURCH, 1882.
by buttresses finished with crocketed finials,
scarcely in accordance with the severe simplicity
of the old time-worn and war-worn church of St.
Mary, the beautiful eastern window of which was
preserved in form.
FOUR HUNDRED AND FIFTY feet north-westward of
St. Mary’s church, and on the same side of the
Kirkgate, opens the ancient alley named Coatfield
Lane, which, after a turn to the south in Charlotte
Lane, led originally to the Links. Dr. Robertson
gives a quotation from the I‘ Parish Records ” of
South Leith, under date 25th May, 1592, as
showing the origin ” of Coatfield Lane : “the
quhilk day, the Provost, Johnne Amottis, shepherd,
was acted that for every sheep he beit in ye Kirkyeard
suld pay ix merks, and everie nyt yat carried
(kept) thame betwix the Coatfield and ye. Kirk
style he should pay v. merk.”
But the name is older than the date given, as
Patrick Logan of Coatfield was Bailie of Leith
10th September, 1470, and Robert Logan of the
same place was Provost of the city in 1520-I, as
the “Burgh Records show ; and when ruin began
to overtake the wily and powerful Baron of Restalrig,
his lands of Mount Lothian and Nether Gogar
were purchased from him by Andrew Logan of
Coatfield in 1596, as stated in the old ‘‘ Douglas
Peerage.”
At the corner of Coatfield Lane, in the Kirkgate,
there stands a great mansion, having a handsome
front to ‘the east, exhibiting some curious exampIes ... restored, but in somewhat doubtful taste, by Thomas Hamilton, architect, and a new square tower, terminating ...

Vol. 6  p. 220 (Rel. 0.44)

Corstorphine.] CORSTORPHINE CHURCH. 115
was no side road into which he could have disappeared.
He returned home perplexed by the
oddness of the circumstance, when the first thing
he learned was, that during his absence this friend
had been killed by his horse falling in the Candlemakers
Row.’’
The church of Corstorphine is one of the most
interesting old edifices in the Lothians. It has
been generally supposed, says a writer, that Scotland,
while possessed of great and grand remains
of Gothic architecture, is deficient in those antique
rural village churches, whose square towers and
ivied buttresses so harmonise with the soft landscape
scenery of England, and that their place is
too often occupied by the hideous barn-like structure
of times subsequent to the Reformation. But
among the retiring niinor beauties of Gothic architecture
in Scotland, one of the principal is the
picturesque little church of Corstorphine.
It is a plain edifice of mixed date, says Billings
in his ‘‘ Antiquities,” the period of the Decorated
Gothic predominating. It is in the form of a cross,
with an additional transept on one of the sides;
but some irregularities in the height and character
of the different parts make them seem asif they
were irregularly clustered together without design.
A portion of the roof is still covered with old-&ey
flagstone. A small square belfry-tower at the west
end is surmounted by a short octagonal spire, the
ornate string’ mouldings on which suggest an idea
of the papal tiara
As the church of the parish, it is kept in tolerably
decent order, and it is truly amazing how it
escaped the destructive fury of the Reformers.
This edifice was not the original parish church,
which stood near it, but a separate establishment,
founded and richly endowed by the pious enthusiasm
of the ancient family whose tombs it contains,
and whose once great castle adjoined it.
Notices have been found of a chapel attached to
the manor of Corstorphine, but subordinate to the
church of St. Cuthbert, so far back as 1128, and
this chapel became the old parish church referred
to. Thus, in the Holyrood charter of King DavidI.,
1143-7, he grants to the monks there the two
chapels which pertain to the church of St. Cuthbert,
‘‘ to wit, Crostorfin, with two oxgates and six
acres of land, and the chapel of Libertun with two
oxgates of land.”
In the immediate vicinity of that very ancient
chapel there was founded ancther chapel towards
the end of the fourteenth century, by Sir Adam
Forrester of Corstorphine; and that edifice is sup
posed to form a portion of the present existing
church, because after its erection no mention whatever
has been found of the second chapel as a
separate edifice.
.The building with which we have now to do
was founded in 1429, as an inscription on the wall
of the chancel, and other authorities, testify, by Sir
John Forrester of Corstorphine, Lord High Chamberlain
of Scotland in 1425, and dedicated to St.
John the Baptist, for a provost, five prebendaries,
and two singing boys. It was a collegiate church,
to which belonged those of Corstorphine, Dalmahoy,
Hatton, Cramond, Colinton, &c. The tiends
of Ratho, and half of those of Adderton and Upper
Gogar, were appropriated to the revenues of this
college.
“Sir John consigned the annual rents of one hundred
and twenty ducats in gold to the church,” says
the author of the “New Statistical Account,” “on
condition that he and his successors should have the
patronage of the appointments, and on the understanding
that if the kirk of Ratho were united to
the provostry, other four or five prebendaries
should be added to the establishment, and maintained
out of the fruits of the benefice of Ratho.
Pope Eugenius IV. sanctioned this foundation by a
bull, in which he directed the Abbot of Holyroodhouse,
a$ his Apostolic Vicar, to ascertain whether
the foundation and consignation had been made in
terms of the original grant, and on being satisfied
on these points, to unite and incorporate the church
of Ratho with its rights, emoluments, and pertinents
to the college for ever.”
The first provost of this establishment was
Nicholas Bannatyne, who died there in 1470, and
was buried in the church, where his epitaph still
remains.
When Dunbar wrote his beautiful ‘ I Lament for
the Makaris,” he embalmed among the last Scottish
poets of his time, as taken by Death, “ the gentle
Roull of Corstorphine,” one of the first provosts of
the church-
‘( He has tane Rod1 of Aberdeen,
A d gentle Rod1 of Corstorphine ;
Twa better fellows did nae man see :
Timor mortis conturbat me.”
There was, says the “ The Book of Bon Accord,”
a Thomas Roull, who was Provost of Aberdeen in
1416, and it is conjectured that the baid was of the
same family ; but whatever the works of the latter
were, nothing is known of him now, save his name,
as recorded by Dunbar.
In the year 1475, Hugh Bar, a burgess of Edinburgh,
founded an additional chaplaincy in this
then much-favoured church. “ The chaplain, in
addition to the performance of daily masses for
the souls of the king andqueen, the lords of the ... CORSTORPHINE CHURCH. 115 was no side road into which he could have disappeared. He returned home ...

Vol. 5  p. 115 (Rel. 0.44)

OLD -4NU NEW EDINBURGH. ... v11t
CHAPTER XXXIV.
INCHKEITH.
PAGE
The Defences of Leith-Inchkeith Forts-%. Serf-The Pest-stricken in 1497-Experiment of James lV.-The Old Fort-Johnson and
Boswell-The New Chanuel -Colonel Moggridge's P l a n j T h e 'I hree New Forts-Magazines and Barracks-The Lighthouse . . 290
CHAPTER XXXV.
NEWHAVEN.
Cobbett on Edinburgh-Jam- IV.'s Dockyard -His Gift of Newhaven to Edinburgh-The GYCQ~ Michapl-Embarkation of Mary of Guise
-Woc.ks at Newhaven in the Sixteenth Century-The Links-Viscount Newhaven-The Feud with Prestonpans-The Sea Fencibles
--Chain Pier-Dr. Fairhirn-The E ishwives-Superstitions . , . . . , . . . . . . . . . 295
CHAPTER XXXVI.
WARDIE, TRINITY, AND GRANTO~.
Wardie Muir-Human Remqins Found-Bangholm Bower and Trinity Lodge-Christ Church, Trinity-Free Church, Granton Road-Pilton
-Royston-Caroline Park-Granton-The Piers and Harhuun-Morton's Patent Slip , . . . . . . , . . 306
CHAPTER XXXVII.
THE ENVIRONS OF EDINBURGH.
Cramond-Origin of the Name-Cramond of that Ilk-Ancient Charters - Inchmickery-Lord Cramond--Bdrnton -Goer and its Proprietors-
Saughton Hall--Riccarton . . . . . . , . . . . . . . , . . . , . . 3'4
CH AI'TE R XXXVI 11.
THE EXVIRONS OF EDINBURGH (confinzed).
Colinton-Ancient Name and Church-Redhall-The Family of Foulis-Dreghom -The Pentlands-View from Tqhin-Comiston-Slateford-
Grnysmill-Liberton -The Mill at Nether Liberton-Liberton Tower-The Chiirch-The Balm Well of St. Katherine-Grace
Mount-The Wauchopes of Niddrie-Niddrie House-St Katherine's-The Kaime-Mr. Clement Little-Lady Little 01 Lihrton . 322
CHAPTER XXXIX.
THE EXVIRONS OF EDINBURGH (continued).
Cnrrie-Origin of the Name-Roman Camps-The Old Church and Temple Lands-Lennox Tower-Curriehill Castle and the Skenes-
Scott of Malleny-James Andelson, LL.D.--"Camp Meg" and her Story . . . . . . . . . . , . 130
CHAPTER XL.
THE ENVIRONS OF EDIXBURGH (coalinued).
The Inch House-The WinramcEdmonstone and the Edmon.;tones of ttat Ilk-Witches-Woolmet-The Stenhouse-Moredun-The
' .338 Stewarts of Goodtrees-The Buckstane-Burdiehoux-Its Limekilns and Fossils . . . . , I . . . , . ... -4NU NEW EDINBURGH. ... v11t CHAPTER XXXIV. INCHKEITH. PAGE The Defences of Leith-Inchkeith Forts-%. ...

Vol. 6  p. 397 (Rel. 0.44)

OLD -4NU NEW EDINBURGH. ... v11t
CHAPTER XXXIV.
INCHKEITH.
PAGE
The Defences of Leith-Inchkeith Forts-%. Serf-The Pest-stricken in 1497-Experiment of James lV.-The Old Fort-Johnson and
Boswell-The New Chanuel -Colonel Moggridge's P l a n j T h e 'I hree New Forts-Magazines and Barracks-The Lighthouse . . 290
CHAPTER XXXV.
NEWHAVEN.
Cobbett on Edinburgh-Jam- IV.'s Dockyard -His Gift of Newhaven to Edinburgh-The GYCQ~ Michapl-Embarkation of Mary of Guise
-Woc.ks at Newhaven in the Sixteenth Century-The Links-Viscount Newhaven-The Feud with Prestonpans-The Sea Fencibles
--Chain Pier-Dr. Fairhirn-The E ishwives-Superstitions . , . . . , . . . . . . . . . 295
CHAPTER XXXVI.
WARDIE, TRINITY, AND GRANTO~.
Wardie Muir-Human Remqins Found-Bangholm Bower and Trinity Lodge-Christ Church, Trinity-Free Church, Granton Road-Pilton
-Royston-Caroline Park-Granton-The Piers and Harhuun-Morton's Patent Slip , . . . . . . , . . 306
CHAPTER XXXVII.
THE ENVIRONS OF EDINBURGH.
Cramond-Origin of the Name-Cramond of that Ilk-Ancient Charters - Inchmickery-Lord Cramond--Bdrnton -Goer and its Proprietors-
Saughton Hall--Riccarton . . . . . . , . . . . . . . , . . . , . . 3'4
CH AI'TE R XXXVI 11.
THE EXVIRONS OF EDINBURGH (confinzed).
Colinton-Ancient Name and Church-Redhall-The Family of Foulis-Dreghom -The Pentlands-View from Tqhin-Comiston-Slateford-
Grnysmill-Liberton -The Mill at Nether Liberton-Liberton Tower-The Chiirch-The Balm Well of St. Katherine-Grace
Mount-The Wauchopes of Niddrie-Niddrie House-St Katherine's-The Kaime-Mr. Clement Little-Lady Little 01 Lihrton . 322
CHAPTER XXXIX.
THE EXVIRONS OF EDINBURGH (continued).
Cnrrie-Origin of the Name-Roman Camps-The Old Church and Temple Lands-Lennox Tower-Curriehill Castle and the Skenes-
Scott of Malleny-James Andelson, LL.D.--"Camp Meg" and her Story . . . . . . . . . . , . 130
CHAPTER XL.
THE ENVIRONS OF EDIXBURGH (coalinued).
The Inch House-The WinramcEdmonstone and the Edmon.;tones of ttat Ilk-Witches-Woolmet-The Stenhouse-Moredun-The
' .338 Stewarts of Goodtrees-The Buckstane-Burdiehoux-Its Limekilns and Fossils . . . . , I . . . , . ... -4NU NEW EDINBURGH. ... v11t CHAPTER XXXIV. INCHKEITH. PAGE The Defences of Leith-Inchkeith Forts-%. ...

Vol. 6  p. 398 (Rel. 0.44)

OLD -4NU NEW EDINBURGH. ... v11t
CHAPTER XXXIV.
INCHKEITH.
PAGE
The Defences of Leith-Inchkeith Forts-%. Serf-The Pest-stricken in 1497-Experiment of James lV.-The Old Fort-Johnson and
Boswell-The New Chanuel -Colonel Moggridge's P l a n j T h e 'I hree New Forts-Magazines and Barracks-The Lighthouse . . 290
CHAPTER XXXV.
NEWHAVEN.
Cobbett on Edinburgh-Jam- IV.'s Dockyard -His Gift of Newhaven to Edinburgh-The GYCQ~ Michapl-Embarkation of Mary of Guise
-Woc.ks at Newhaven in the Sixteenth Century-The Links-Viscount Newhaven-The Feud with Prestonpans-The Sea Fencibles
--Chain Pier-Dr. Fairhirn-The E ishwives-Superstitions . , . . . , . . . . . . . . . 295
CHAPTER XXXVI.
WARDIE, TRINITY, AND GRANTO~.
Wardie Muir-Human Remqins Found-Bangholm Bower and Trinity Lodge-Christ Church, Trinity-Free Church, Granton Road-Pilton
-Royston-Caroline Park-Granton-The Piers and Harhuun-Morton's Patent Slip , . . . . . . , . . 306
CHAPTER XXXVII.
THE ENVIRONS OF EDINBURGH.
Cramond-Origin of the Name-Cramond of that Ilk-Ancient Charters - Inchmickery-Lord Cramond--Bdrnton -Goer and its Proprietors-
Saughton Hall--Riccarton . . . . . . , . . . . . . . , . . . , . . 3'4
CH AI'TE R XXXVI 11.
THE EXVIRONS OF EDINBURGH (confinzed).
Colinton-Ancient Name and Church-Redhall-The Family of Foulis-Dreghom -The Pentlands-View from Tqhin-Comiston-Slateford-
Grnysmill-Liberton -The Mill at Nether Liberton-Liberton Tower-The Chiirch-The Balm Well of St. Katherine-Grace
Mount-The Wauchopes of Niddrie-Niddrie House-St Katherine's-The Kaime-Mr. Clement Little-Lady Little 01 Lihrton . 322
CHAPTER XXXIX.
THE EXVIRONS OF EDINBURGH (continued).
Cnrrie-Origin of the Name-Roman Camps-The Old Church and Temple Lands-Lennox Tower-Curriehill Castle and the Skenes-
Scott of Malleny-James Andelson, LL.D.--"Camp Meg" and her Story . . . . . . . . . . , . 130
CHAPTER XL.
THE ENVIRONS OF EDIXBURGH (coalinued).
The Inch House-The WinramcEdmonstone and the Edmon.;tones of ttat Ilk-Witches-Woolmet-The Stenhouse-Moredun-The
' .338 Stewarts of Goodtrees-The Buckstane-Burdiehoux-Its Limekilns and Fossils . . . . , I . . . , . ... -4NU NEW EDINBURGH. ... v11t CHAPTER XXXIV. INCHKEITH. PAGE The Defences of Leith-Inchkeith Forts-%. ...

Vol. 6  p. 399 (Rel. 0.44)

St. Giles’s Churchyard.
INTERIOR OF THE HIGH CHURCH, ST. GILES’S.
CHAPTER XVI.
THE NEIGHBOURHOOD OF ST. GILES’S.
St. Giles’s Churchyard-The IIaison Dieu-The Clam-shell Turnpike-The Grave of Knox-The City Cross--The Summons ot Pluto-
Executions : Kirkaidy, Gilderoy, and others-The Caddies--The Dyvours Stane-The Luckenbooths-The Auld Kirk S~yle-Eym’o
Lodging-Lard Coalstoun’s Wig-Allan Ramsay’s Library and “Creech‘s Land”-The Edinburgh Halfpenny.
DOWN the southern slope of the hill on which St.
Giles’s church stands, its burying-ground-covered
with trees, perchance anterior to the little parish
edifice we have described as existing in the time of
David 1.-sloped to the line of the Cowgate, where
it was terminated by a wall and chapel dedicated
to the holy rood, built, says Arnot, “in memory of
€hrist crucified, and not demolished till the end of
the sixteenth century.” In July, 1800, a relic ot
this chapel was found near the head of Forrester’s
Wynd, in former days the western boundary of the
churchyard. This relic-a curiously sculptured
grouplike a design from Holbein’s “Dance of
Death,” was defaced and broken by the workmen.
Amid the musicians, who brought up the rear,
was an angel, playing on the national bagpipe-a ... Giles’s Churchyard. INTERIOR OF THE HIGH CHURCH, ST. GILES’S. CHAPTER XVI. THE NEIGHBOURHOOD OF ST. ...

Vol. 1  p. 148 (Rel. 0.43)

Corstorphine.] CORSTORPHINE CHURCH. ... CORSTORPHINE ...

Vol. 5  p. 117 (Rel. 0.43)

vi1
.-
CONTENTS. -
CHAPTER XXVII.
LEITH-CONSTITUTION STREET, THE SHORE, COAL HILL, AND SHERIFF BRAE.
PAGE
Constitution Street-Pirates Executed-St. James's Episcopal Church-Town Hall-St. John's Church-Exchange Buildings-Headquarters
of the Leith Rifle V o l u n t e e d l d Signal-Tower-The Shore-Old and New Ship Taverns-The Markets-The Coal Hill-
Ancient Council House-The Peat Neuk-Shirra Brae-Tibbie Fowler of the Glen-St. Thomas's Church and Asylum-The
Gladstone Family-Great Junction Road . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 243
CHAPTER XXVIII.
NORTH LEITH.
The Chapel and Church of St. Ninian-Parish Created-Its Records-Rev. Gorge Wishart-Rev. John Knox-Rev. Dr. Johnston-The
Burial-Ground-New North Leith Church-Free Churchald Grammar Schoolxobourg Street-St. Nicholas' Church-The
Citadel-Its Remains-Houses within it-Beach and Sands of North Leith-New Custom House-Shipping Inwards and Outwards . . 25 I
1
CHAPTEK XXIX.
LEITH-THE LINKS.
Links-Gdfers t h e 4 h a d e s I.-Montrose-Sir James Foulii and others-The Gn .lit-A Duel in 1729-Two Soldiers $hot-
Hamilton's Dragoons-A Volunteer Review in rTgT-Residents of Rank-The Grammar School-Watt's Hospital-New Streets-
Seafield. Baths-First Bathing Machine in Scotland-A Duel in 1789 . . . . . . . . . . . . . * 259
CHAPTER XXX.
LEITH-THE SANDS.
The Sands of Leith-Pirates Executed there-The Kuit oflyme-Captain Potts of the Dmdrrought-A Duel in 1667-Horse-racing-
"The Bell"-kith Races in 1661--"Going Down with the Purse"-Races in 1763 and ,771, etc. . . . . . . . . 267
CHAPTER XXXI.
LEITH-THE HARBOUR.
The Admiral and Bailie Courts-The Leith Science (Navigation) School-The Harbour of Leith-The BaF-The Wooden Piers-Early Im.
provements of the Harbour-Erection of Beacons-The Custom House Quay-The Bridge-Rennie's Report on the required
Docks-The Mortons' Building-yard-The Present Piers-The Martello Tower . . . . . . . . . . . 270
CHAPTER XXXII.
MEMORABILIA OF THE SHIPPING OF LEITH AND ITS MARITIME AFF.\'RS.
Old Shipping 1st-Early Whale Fishing-kttei; of Marque against Hamburg--Captures of English Ships, 1650-1-First recorded
Tonnage of Leith-Imports-Amrt of Captain Augh Palliser-Shore Dues, 1763-Sailon' Strike, 17g~--Tonnage in 188r-Passenpr
Traffic, etc.-Letters of Marque-Exploits of some4lance a t Shipbuilding . . . - . . . . . . . . 27)
CHAPTER xxx~ I r.
L E I T H - T H E DOCKS.
New Docks proposed-Apathy of the Government-First Graving Dock, 1716Two more Docks constructed-Shellycoat's Rock-
The Contract-The Dock of rhr-The King's Bastion-The Queen's Dock-New Pierx-The Victoria I)ock-TXe Albert
Dock-The Edinburgh Dock-Its Extent-Ceremony of Opening-A Glance at the Trade of Leith . . . . . . . 282 ... - CHAPTER XXVII. LEITH-CONSTITUTION STREET, THE SHORE, COAL HILL, AND SHERIFF ...

Vol. 6  p. 396 (Rel. 0.42)

146 OLD AND NET
into the royal presence, the king became alarmed,
and retired into the Tolbooth, amid shouts of
‘‘ &ly !” .“ Save yourself !” “Armour ! Armour !”
When the deputation returned to the portion of
St. Giles’s absurdly named the little kirk, they found
another multitude listening to the harangue of a
clergyman named Michael Cranston, on the text of
“ Hamanand Mordecai.” The auditors, on hearing
that the king had retired without any explanation,
now rush‘ed forth, and with shouts of “Bring out
the wicksd Haman !” endeavoured to batter down
the doors of the Tolbooth,’ from which James was
glad to make his escape to Holyrood, swearing he
would uproot Edinburgh, and salt its site !
This disturbance, which Tytler details in his
History, was one which had no definite or decided
purpose-one of the few in Scottish annals where
The species of spire or lantern formed by groined
ribs of stone, which forms the most remarkable
feature in the venerable church, seems to be. pecumonarch
to show his gratitude by attention to
the cause of religion, and his care of the new
Subjects committed to his care.
The king now rose, and addressed the people
from whom he was about to part in a very warm
and affectionate strain. He bade them a long
adieu with much tenderness, promised to keep
them and their best interests in fond memory
during his absence, “and often to visit them and
communicate to them marks of his bounty when
in foreign parts, as ample as any which he had
been used to bestow when present with’ them.
A mixture of approbation and weeping,” says
Scott in his History, “followed this speech; and
the good-natured king wept plentifully himself at
taking leave of his native subjects.”
The north transept of the church long bore the
queer name of Haddo’s Hole, because a famous
cavalier, Sir John Gordon of Haddo-who defended
his castle of Kelly against the Covenanters,
and loyally served King Charles 1.-was imprisoned
there for some time before his execution at the
adjacent cross in 1644.
high alm) was ordered to be cast-into cannon
for the town walls, instead of which they were sold
for Azzo. Maitland further records that two of
the remaining bells were re-cast at Campvere in
1621 ; one of these was again recast at London in
1846. ’
In 1585 the Town Council purchased the clock
belonging to the abbey church of Lindores in
Fifeshire, and placed it in the tower of St. Giles’s,
“ previous to which time,” says Wilson, “ the
citizens probably regulated time chiefly by the
bells for matins and vespers, and the other daily
services of the Roman Catholic Church.”
In I 68 I we first find mention of the musical bells
in the spire. Fountainhall records, with reference
to the legacy left to the city by Thomas Moodie, the
Council propose “to buy with it a peal of bells, to
hang in St. Giles’s steeple, to ring musically, and
to build a Tolbooth above the West Port of Edinburgh,
and put Thomas Moodie’s nanie and arms
thereon.”
When the precincts of St. Giles’s church were
secularised, the edifice became degraded, about
. - ... OLD AND NET into the royal presence, the king became alarmed, and retired into the Tolbooth, amid shouts ...

Vol. 1  p. 146 (Rel. 0.41)

288 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [ S t . Giles Street.
In course of time the politics of the Couranf
graduallychanged, and it is still a flourishing paper
as the organ of the Conservatives and of the landed
‘interest in Scotland.
The DaiZy Review, which came into existence in
April, 1861, has always been a highclass and wellconducted
paper of Liberal principles, and a leading
-organ on ecclesiastical matters among the greater
body of Scottish Dissenters-the Free and United
coveries yet made to his prejudice,” the judges
inflicted punishment upon MacEwan, who was
compelled in his next issue to apologise to his
country subscribers, and explain why they were not
served ‘‘ with that day‘s Couranf, as also why we
have been so sparing all along of home news.”
esteemed as one of the greatest journalists in Scotland,
it gained a high reputation for art criticism,
and an increased circulation. Mr. Manson had an
earnest susceptibility for art, and everything he
wrote on that subject proceeded from genuine and
native interest on the subject, and expressed convictions
which he cherished deeply. The quarterlies,
too, occasionally contained articles from his
facile pen, and not unfrequently has Pzmch been
Presbyterian chnrches. It was founded by the
late Mr. David Guthrie to advance the views and
interests of the Nonconformist Evangelical Church
in Scotland, while at the same time taking its fair
share in the general news of the country. ’ Under the
editorship of Mr. James Bolivar Manson, who was
INTERIOR OF TRINITY COLLEGE CHURCH, JEFFREY STREET. ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [ S t . Giles Street. In course of time the politics of the Couranf graduallychanged, ...

Vol. 2  p. 288 (Rel. 0.41)

244 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Leith
cost of .&3oo, and has two ornamental fronts;
respectively with Ionic pillars and a Doric porch.
St. John’s Established Church adjoins it. It was
originally a chapel of ease, but became a Free Church
from the Disruption in 1843 till 1867, when, by
adjudication, it reverted to the Establishment.
Designed by David Rhind, it has an imposing
front in the Early Pointed style, surmounted by a
lofty octagonal tower, terminating in numerous
pinnacles, and not in a tall slender spire, accord-
On the west side of Constitution Street, the way,
for nearly 300 feet, is bounded by the wall enclos
ing the burying-ground of St. Mary‘s Church, to
which access is here given by a large iron gate,
after passing the Congregational chapel at the
intersection of Laurie Street.
In No. 132 have long been established the headquarters
and orderly-room of the Leith Volunteer
Corps, numbered as the 1st Midlothian Rifles.
Originally clad in grey (like the city volunteers),
THE TOWN HALL AND ST. JOHN’S ESTABLISHED cnuRcH.
ing to the original intention of the talented
architect.
The Exchange Buildings at the foot of Constitution
Street, opposite Bernard Street, were
erected, at a cost of A16,000, in a Grecian style
of architecture, and are ornamented in front
by an Ionic portico of four columns. They
are three storeys in height, and include public
reading and assembly rooms ; but of late years
assemblies have seldom been held in Leith, though
they were usual enough in the last century. In the
Week& Magazine for I 7 76 we read of a handsome
subscription being sent by “the subscribers to a
dancing assembly in Leith,” through Sir William
Forbes, for the relief of our troops at Boston.
this regiment now wears scarlet, faced unrneanhgly
with black, and their badge is the arms of Leiththe
Virgin and Holy Child seated in the middle of
a galley, with the motto, 4‘ Persevere.” The corps
was raised when the volunteer movement began:
under Colonel Henry Amaud, a veteran officer of
the East India Company’s Service, who, in turn,
was succeeded by D. R. Macgregor, Esq., the late
popular M.P. for the Leith Burghs.
On the same side of the street stands the Catholic
Church of “Our Lady, Star of the Sea,” built in
1853. It is a high-roofed cruciform edifice, in a
coarse style of Early Gothic.
Constitution Street is continued north to the
intersection of Tower Street and the road beyond ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Leith cost of .&3oo, and has two ornamental fronts; respectively with Ionic ...

Vol. 6  p. 244 (Rel. 0.41)

THE EARLY CHURCH. I39 St. Giles’s Church.]
of that hospital used to present a bowl of ale to away. The first stone church was probably of
every felon as he passed their gate to Newgate.
Among the places enumerated by Simon Dunelmensis,
of Durham, as belonging to the see
.of Lindkfarn in 854, when Earnulph, who removed
it to Chester-le-Street, was bishop, he includes
that of Edinburgh. From this it must
be distinctly inferred that a church of some
kind existed on the long slope that led to Dun
Edin, but no authentic record of it occurs till the
reign of King Alexander II., when Baldred deacon
of Lothian, and John perpetual vicar of the
church of St. Giles at Edinburgh, attached their
seals to copies of certain Papal bulls and charters
of the church of Megginche, a dependency of the
church of Holyrood ; and (according to the Liber
Cartaruni Sanctae Crucis) on the Sunday before the
feast of St. Thomas, in the year 1293, Donoca,
daughter of John, son of Herveus, resigned certain
Iands to the monastery of Holyrood, in full consis-,
Norman architecture. A beautiful Norman dborway,
which stood below the third window from the
west, was wantonly destroyed towards the end of
the eighteenth century. ‘‘ This fragment,” says
Wilson, “sufficiently enables us to picture the
little parish church of St. Giles in the reign of
David I. Built in the massive style of the early
Norman period, it would consist simply of a nave
and chancel, united by a rich Norman chancel
arch, altogether occupying only a portion of the
centre of the present nave. Small circular-headed
windows, decorated with zig-zag mouldings, would
admit the light to its sombre interior; while its
west front was in all probability surmounted by
a simple belfry, from whence the bell would summon
the natives of the hamlet to matins and
vespers, and with slow measured sounds toll their
knell, as they were laid in the neighbouring churchyard.
This ancient church was never entire4 detory,
held in the church of St. Giles. Its solid masonry was probably very
is again mentioned, when William the bishop of St. forces of Edward 11. in 1322, when Holyrood was
,%ndrews confirmed numerous gifts bestowed upon spoiled, or by those of his son in 1335, when
the abbey and its dependencies. In 1359 King the whole country was wasted with fire and sword.
David II., by a charter under his great seal, con- The town was again subjected to the like violence,
Catharine in the church of St. Giles all the lands I conflagration of 1385, when the English army
.of Upper Merchiston, the gift of Roger Hog, under Richard 11. occupied the town for five days,
burgess of Edinburgh. It is more than probable and then laid it and the abbey of Holyrood in
961, and built up again within the year. Of what ’ the original fabric by the piety of private donors,
must the materials have been? asks Maitland. I or by the zeal of its own clergy to adapt it to
Burned again in 1187, it was rebuilt on arches of, the wants of the rising town. In all the changes
.stone--“ a wonderful work,” say the authors of the that it underwent for above seven centuries, the
day. I original north door, with its beautifully recessed
A portion of the church of St. Giles was arched ’ Norman arches and grotesque decorations, always
I with stone in 1380, as would appear from a con- commanded the veneration of the innovators, and I tract noted by Maitland, who has also preserved remained as a precious relic of the past, until the
the terms of another contract, made in 1387, be- tasteless improvers of the eighteenth century de-.
tween the provost and community of Edinburgh I molished it without a cause, and probably for no
on one hand, an? two masons on the other, for the better reason than to evade the cost of its repair !”
construction of five separate vaulted chapels along I In the year 1462 great additions and repairs.
the south side of the church, the architectural appear to have been in progress, for the Town.
features of which prove its existence at a period Council then passed a law that all persons selling
I long before any of these dates, and when Edin- corn before it was entered should forfeit one chal-
I der to church work. In the year 1466 it was I burgh was merely a cluster of thatched huts.
The edifice, as it now stands, is a building erected into a collegiate church by James III.,.
including the work of many different and remote the foundation consisting (according to Keitli and
I periods. By all men of taste and letters in Edin- others) of a provost, curate, sixteen prebendaries,.
burgh it has been a general subject of regret that sacristan, beadle, minister of the choir, and four
the restoration in 1829 was conducted in a man- choristers. - Various sums of money, lands, tithes,
ner so barbarous and irreverent, that many of its &c., were appropriated for the support of the new
In an Act ’ molished.
passed in 1319, in the reign of Robert I., the church I partially affected by the ravages of the invading
firmed to the chaplain officiating at the altar of St. i probably with results little more lasting, by the
that the first church on the site was of wood. St. i ashes. The Norman architecture disappeared
Paul’s Cathedral, at London, was burned down in I piecemeal, as chapels and aisles were added to ... EARLY CHURCH. I39 St. Giles’s Church.] of that hospital used to present a bowl of ale to away. The first stone ...

Vol. 1  p. 139 (Rel. 0.41)

CONTENTS. ix
CHAPTER XLII.
JAURISTON.
The New UniveAity Buildmgs-The Estimates and Ammmodation-George Watsods HospitaI-Fonnded-Opencd and Sold-The New
Royal Infirmary-Its Capabilities for Accommodation-Simpn Memorial Hospital-Sii children’s Hospital-Merchant Maiden
H a s p i t a l - W ~ n ’ s S c h w ~ ~ s t o n U n i t e d P r r s b ~ ~ h u r c h - S ~ C p t h u i m ’ s ~ ~ . . . - . - . .355
CHAPTER XLIII.
GEORGE HERIOT’S HOSPITAL AND THE GREYFRIARS CHURCH.
Norice o f h r g e Heriot-Dies Childless-His Wd--The Hospital founded-Its Pmgrcss-The Marter Masons--Opmed-Number of
Scholars-Dr. Ralcanquall-Alterations-The EdificcThe Amhit- of it-Heriot’s Day and Inht Schools in the City-Luudi’s
Balloon Ascent-Royal Edinburgh Volunteers-The Heriot Breweryald Greyfriars Church-The Cwcnant-The Cromwellii-The
Coveuanting Prisoners-The Martyr’s Tomb-New Greyfriars-Dr. Wallace--I)I. RobeWn-Dr. E r s k i n 4 l d Tombs in the Church
-Grant by Queen Marg-Morton Interred-State of the Ground in 177pThe Gravea of B u c k and others-Roneo from SL Giles’s
Church - . . . . , . . . . , . . . . . . . - . .36j
ERRATA.
Page 135 col I, lines 3,+ from foot, for “he preached on the death of Dr,,” k, read “preached at hi4
Page 145 col. 2, delete lines 14 to 25 tium top.
Page I#, col. I, delete Lines 3 to 6 from top.
Page 156, COL a, line 10 from foot, for “ w“ read “is”
Page 158, col. I, lie 13 from top, for ‘‘ 1876” read 4‘ 1871.-
Page 168, col. I, line 22 from top, for “was till 1879 ” read “ is.”
Page 168, COL i, line 31 from top, for “now” read “was till 1879.-
Page ~m col. 2, line 4 from top, for “ Provident Institntion,” read “Scottish Union and National Insuranc-
z Company;” and for “6”read “47, George Street, and24 st. Andrew Squan, these two
companies having been amalgamated in 1879.”
Page 171, col. I, line 10 from top, for “west ” read ‘( east.“
Page r71, col. I, l i e 12 from top, for I‘ Provident Institntion I* read “Scottish Unim and National Insuranc-
z Company.“
Page 172. The engraving repmnts the “Scottish Union and National Iosurancc Company” and not
the “Scottish Provident Institution.”
Nom-Mr. Hugh James Ro110, W.S., factor for the Walker trustees, Mites:-“At page 1x1 it is IC.
presented that a capital of &mow was bequeathed by the Mims Walker for the erection d S t .
Mary’s Cathedral, whereas the amount of personal estate left was about ,&&,om, besides heritage
very valuable for feuing purposes, which at the death of Miss Mary Walker yielded an income
of about .44,om a year. The income at preseat is about .46,504 the first charge on which is a
sum of f;1,4oo for stipends to clergy of the cathedral, bursaries to students, and allowance to the
poor of the cathedral. Then there is a sum of & I , X ~ to be anndly set aside for thirty year4
to repay part of the cost of the cathedral, and the interest on this &minish;ng loam The surplus
income is at the d e of the trustees for behoof of the Episcopd Church in Scotland, the City of
Edinburgh having always a p‘cf- The ultimate income will be about L8,om a yeu.”
death by Dr.,” &c. ... ix CHAPTER XLII. JAURISTON. The New UniveAity Buildmgs-The Estimates and Ammmodation-George Watsods ...

Vol. 4  p. 391 (Rel. 0.41)

GENERAL INDEX.
Christ’s Church at the Tron, I. 187
Christ‘s Church. Castle Hill. I. 82
Chrystie family,’The, 111, 43, 45
Church Hill 111. 38, 71
Church Lad! 11. 1x5, 111. 38
Church offenders, how punished,
11.132
Ci her of Lord Damley and Queen
ham. I. ‘16
C+Ls’&e,rIII. 307
Circus Place School 111. 81
Circus, The, Leith’Walk, I. 346,
Ci:adel Port Leith, 111. 257, 258,
261 ; its irection by Monk, 111.
11. 178
187 256
City ‘ h l e r y Volunteer Corps, I.
286
City gaol 11. 231
City gates Number of, to be open
daily ~ i . 222
city (;Lard, the Edinburgh, I. 5%
274
ment of the, 11. z$
City improvements Commence-
City of Glasgow Bant, 11. 162
Civic privileges, Insistauce on by
Civil War, First movements of, I.
Clam Shell Land I. 239
Clam Shell lurdpike, The, I. 149
Clan regiments, I. 327
Clanranald, I. 334, 11. 35, 111. 146
Clanship, Influence of, I. 134,168
Claremont Park, Leith, 111. 266
Chmont Street Chapel, 111. 75
Claremont Terrace, 111. 88
Clarence Street, 111. 78 83 84
Clarendon Crescent IIi. 7;
“ Clarinda,.’ 11,327: 328 ; house of,
I1 * 32. room in, 11. *333 chic02 CAmrie, 11.159
Clarke Alexander, 11. 242
Clarke: Provost Alexander, I. 193,
Clarkson Stanfield. the oainter. 111.
the citizens, 11. 280
159; events of the, 111. 184
246, 111. 72
, _ ,
78
tions, 11. 250, 111. 75
a descendant of, 11. a07
“Chudero,” the wit ; his produc-
Claverhouse, l‘he spectre of, I. 66 ;
Clavering, Lady Augwta, 11. 139
Cleanliness in the streets, Necessity
“Cleanse the Causeway,” I. 39, 194,
Cleghorn, the physician, 111. 311 ;
Clelland’s Gardens, 111.152
Cleriheugh’s Tavern, I. 120, 184,
for, 1. 193, 199. 203
258, 263, 11. 251
his nephew, rb.
IR,
Cl& Sir John, I. 231 232
Clerk’ John (Lord Eld$) 11. 186
Clerk’ofEldin. the ~val’tacticim.
111. 359, 3 6
Clerk 01 Penicuick, St George,
111. 359
Clerk of Pennicuick, Sir James, I.
92, 11. 123 ; his wife 11. IZ 124
125,111.192, 193; reiicsof8rinc:
Charles, 11. 124,
Clerk of Penuicuck, Si John, I.
111 11. 137 111. 63 198
Clerk: David,’physici;n, 11. agg
Clerk Street Chapel 111. 51
Clerks, Society of, i. 167
Clermistou, 111. r q
Clestram Lady I. 106
Cleuchdidstode 111. 33”
Clifton Walter df 11. 50
Clinch’ the actor, ’I. 352
Clock&.ker, The first, 11. 263
Clockmaker’s Land, I. 31p. *321
Clockmill House, 11.41, 308
Closes, The old, 11. 241, 242
“Clouts Castle of” 11. 355
Clyde Lord 11. 3;3
Clydeidale Bank, The, II.148,III.
239
Coaches between Edinburgh and
London, I. 55; between Edinburgh
and Glasgow I. 201 between
Edinburghan’d hith,’IIl.
151, 152 Coal Supposed existence of, near
Gkton, 111. 308 ; the Esk coalseams,
111. 358,359
Coal Hill, Leith, 111. 234, 235.246,
247. 250
Coalstoun, Lord, I. 154, 111. 367 ;
anecdote of I. 154
Coates, 11.24, zIr, III. 42, gz
Coates Crescent, 11. 210, 2x1
Coates Gardens, 11. 214
Coates House 11. 1x1 259
Coates Manoi-house i f haster, 11.
Coatfield Gutter, Leith, 111. 194
Coatfield Lane, Leith, 111. ZZO,ZZI
Cobbler A clever I. 271
CobouriStreet,L;iyh,III.~5,256;
sculptured stone in, 111. *260
Cochrane, Lady Mary, 11.272
Cockburn, Lord, I. 159, 282 265
307, 362, 366, 374. 375, 3& 11:
81, 84, 90, 9 1 ~ 93, 95, 4 I q ,
114, 162, ‘741 2839 339, 34793488r
111. 62, 68, 78, 86, 95,. 110, his
father, 111. 87 ; his residence at
Banally, 111. 326, * 328
Cockburn, Sir Adam, I. 68
Cockbum, Alexander, the city
Cockburn Archibald, High Judge
Cockburn, Henry, the counsel, 11.
Cockburn Provost Patrick, 11. 55
Cockburn’ Sheriff, I. 172
Cockburn’ofOrmiston, II.348,III.
58 ; Mrs., the poetess, I. gg. 11.
Cockburn itreet, I. 229, 237, 283,
286 11. ~ r n
“Codked Hat” Hamilton, 11. 139
Cockfighting II.236,III. a63 263 ;
customary:n 1783, 11. 119
Cocklaw Farm, Currie. 111. 331
Cockpen,III.gr8;theLairdof,I.91
Cockpit, The, 11. I 6
Coffee-house, The lrst Edinburgh,
Coinage, 1 he Scottish, I. z6g
Colchester’s Cuirarrsien, I. 64
Coldingham,Lord Johnof, II.67,72
Coldingham, Prior of, I. 39
Coldstream. Dr. John, 11. 187
Colinton, 111. 35, 125, zr6, 314,
*321, 322, 323 324; its local
history, 111. 322,’ 323
Colinton House 111. 323
Colinton, Lords: 111. 323
Colinton Tower, 111. 333
College The I. 379 11. 255, zsg ;
estabkshmgnt of, h. 8
College Kirk cemetery, 111. 15
College of Justice, I. 121, 166, 182,
195, 219, 259, 340, 368, 11. 203,
207, 325. 111. 49. 202, 316, 3%
334,338,359; firstmembersofthe,
1. 167
College ofPhysicians I. 278 11. 146
College ofsurgeons i1.146’111.15
College Street, 11. &I, 326; 111. 3
College Wynd, 11. “249, 251, 254,
Colonsay ’Lord i. 159 11. 127 197
Colquho& of ’KillerAont, dchi-
Colquioun ‘i?r John 11. 166
Colstoun iady I 282
Coltbridie, I. j36, 111. 102, 103,
Coltbridge house and Hall, 111.
Coltheart’s, Mr. and Mrs., ghostly
Colville, Lord, 11. 335
Colville ofCclross, Alexander Lord,
Colville of Easter Wem
Combe, George, the pEnologist,
Comhe‘l Clcse, Leith, 111. 126;
“ Comedy Hut, I$ed Edinburgh,”
Comely Bank 111. 7 82, 323
Comely Gardks II? 128, ~ 3 5
Comely Green IiI. rz8
Comiston IIL 316; Lairds of I.
97 ; the’battle stone, 111. *3;6
115, 116
hangman, 11. 231
Admirai, 11. 348
=27r 3’5
1.61, 329, 46
1; 174s 178
274, 383 111. 3 8
bald 11.
114, 118, 19
‘03
visitors, I. 228
11. I15
I. 147
1. 384 111. 68
ancient buildin in ib.
1.230
Comiston House, 111. 326
Commendator Kobert of Holyrood. - .
1. 239
Commercial Ehuk, The, I. 175,II.
147
Commercial Street L$h, 111. 258
“Commodore O B k n 111. 154
Communication betwken the north
and south sides of the city, Plan
for I. * 296
Comhunion, how celebrated, 11.
Comyn, 111. 351
Confession of Faith, The, I. 123
Congalton, Dr. Fraucis, the phy-
Biclan, 11. zg8
Congalton of Congalton, 111. 58
Connell, Sir John advocate, 11. 194
Conn’s Close, I. ;go, II. 241
Conservative Club The 11. 125
Constable,Archibaid, th; publisher,
I. 157, 210, 229 291,339, 11. 1x8,
* I Z I , 142. 15:; the h’din6vmh
Rmim, I. ZII ; his customers,
I. 210 ; his shop, I. 2x1, 11. raz ;
Lockhart’s description ofhim, 11.
122; his bankruptcy, ib.; his
portrait, ib.
132 : CUPS, ia.
Constable, Thomas, 111. log, 110
Constable’s Tower, The, I. 36, 49
Constables, Appointment of city, I.
Constables of the Castle I. 78
ConstitutionStreet. Lei;h, 111. 171,
cution oftwopirates, 111.243, a67
Convening Rooms, 11. 104,106
Convenery, The, Leith, 111. aog
Convention of Royal Burghs,
Cooper Dr. Myles 11. 247
Cooper; of Go&, The family of
Coopkrs The, 11.265
Cope, si ohn, I. 322, 325, 326,
Cordiners, or shoemakers The, 11.
203
184,239, 243, a44. ~ 8 8 , 289 ; exe-
Ancient, I. 186
the 111. 318
327. 333, 11. 281, 111. 132, 263
. . . .
263
Cordiners of thehougate, 11.19 ;
Cordiners 0) the Portsburgh, A r m s
Corehodse Lord 11. 206, 207
Corn Excbange,’Grassmarket, 11.
Corn Exchange, Leith, 111. 239
Corn Market, The, I. 178, 11. 222,
Cornwallis Lord iI1. 23 193, 335
Corporal &on DL, I. $5
Corooration of Candlemakers. 11.
their king ib.
ofthe 11. 224
236
230,231 ; the old 11. *z33
a&, 267
Cor oration privileges, Monopoly
CoGoratious, The Ancient, 11. 263
O f 11. I5
. -
-267.
111. I<
Correction House, The, 11. 323,
Corri SFgnor 11.178 179
CorriLhie, Bahe of (& Battles)
Corstorphine, I. 254. 323, 324. 111.
IIZ-I~I, 3x8, 3’9, 327, 332, 314;
its name 111. 112, 113
Corstorphine Castle, 111. 118
Corstorphine Church, III. 115,”116,
I m ; its hltory, 111. i15--163
Corstorphine Craigs, 111.113
Corstorphine cream, 111. 114
Corstorphine Cross 111. 113
CorstorphineHill,IkI. xq, 113,118 ;
viewof Edinburghfram, II1.*117
Corstorphine Loch, 111. 42, 118
Cotterell, Lieut.-Col., General Assembly
expelled by, 11. 223.
Cotterill, Right Rev. Henry, Bishop
of Edinburgh, 11.212
Coulter. William. Lord Provost. 11.
283 ; his funerd, 111. 39
Council Chamber The ancient cos! Hill, h i d , 111. a46, 247:
’
Coull’s Clow, 11. 5, ‘7
” 248
Country Dinner Club, The, 111.125
Couutv Hall. The. I. IZZ
Cuupir, Lord 1. ;54 164 111. azz
Couper Stm;, Leith: I l i . 258
Courtof Session, 1.166, ‘61, 11. a3 ;
robable extinction of 1. 174
“ &U* of Sesuon GarlAd,’’ I. 1%
COUrtS Of 1. 157
courts of w, 11. 245
226, 111. 30, 184, 186, I&, 33,;
courage ofthe I 160 161 11.19;
transportatiod 0.i th;, IiI. IQ ;
execution of the 11. 235111.156
Covenanters’ Flag: 1. 54
Covenanters’ Prison, Entrance to
the, 11. * 381
Coventry, the lecturer 11. 120
Covington, Lord I. :70 272, 338,
Cow Palace, 11. 319
cowan Lord 11.207
Cowan: War;?house of Messrs., 11.
Cowfeeder Row, 111.94
Cowgate, The. I. % 31, 38, 3% 1x0,
123, IP, 148, 157, 161,162, 179.
181, 2071 217, 219, 245. 253, 255,
263, 266, 267, 268, 278. 2 2, 294,
86, 147. 166, 232-68, a m 273,
358, II. 116 Iii. 135 ; ’hi, pwn,
I. 170, 11. :87
171
295, 3731 374, 375, 378,li: 2, 23.
282. 293, 346 111. 23 31 47 6, 53.
63, 125, 126 ;‘its early name, the
Sou’gate, or Southstreet, 11.239,
249 ; origin of the thoroughfare,
11. 239 ; ancient weapons found
therein, 11.240 ; oldhouses in the,
11. * 240, * 244 ; ancient maps of
thecowgate 11. *141, *245,”161;
excavations kade on the site 11.
a45 ; head of Cowgate, P& 21
Cowgate Chapel 11. 194
Cowgate Churcd, 11. 188
Cowgate Head, 11. 168, 241, 267
Cowgate Port, 1.274, 278,298, *pi,
11. 17, 146 ~ 3 9 , 2 1 0 , ~ o 111 156
Cowper, Bishop, t h e g a l k 111: 260
Craftsmen, l’he early, 11. ;63
Craig, Lord, 11. 121, 143, 187, 270,
Craig, sir Lewk I. 226 111. 322
Craig of RiccrtrtAn, Sir khomas, I.
Craig, James, architect, 11. 105,
Craig John the Reformer I1 262
Craiiof Ridcarton, Rob& 11: 123,
Craig hnd, The, 11. 103, 111. 186,
=a7
Craig Houx, 111.42; its successive
owners, I I . 4 2 , 4 3 , * ~ ; itsdiningroom
and kitchen, 111. *#
Craigantinnie, JamesNisbetof. 111.
63 Cnugantinnie manor-house, 111.
Cmgantmnie marbles, The, 111.
138, * 144
Craigcrook,III. 78 107 ; itssuccessive
owners, I I ~ . 107 ; a fearful
tragedy and remarkable dream,
111.108, r q
Craigcrook Castle, 111. 106, * 107,
I d 1 9 110 *I12
Craiicrook, d d y , 111. log
Craigie-Wallace, Lady, 111. ya
Craigingalt, or Craigangilt, The
rock 11. 102, 111. 151
Craigkth. III. 94, 107
Craigleith quarry, 111. 82, 83, 111.
Craiglockhart 111. 42, 43
C+glc+hart’HiIl, 111. 42
Cmgmllar, 11. 336, 111. 57. 142,
327
226,111.321, 322
117, 118, 146
111.334
136, 138.7 141
23
1 3 7 2399 287, 338
Craigmillar, Henry de, 111. 58
Craigmillar Laird of, 111. 61, 94
Craigmil1ar)CnstIe. I. 1s. 42,77,111.
3, p, 58; views of, 111. *6a
Platc 27; its history, I l l . 58-
62; Queen Mary at, 111. 59
Craigmillar Hill 111. 61
Craigmilh pari, III. 51, 58
Craigmillar Road, 111. 58
Craig’s Close I. 179 203 za9. 230
Craig’s plan Af the dew ltreets and
Cramond village, 111. 311. 314-
318, Pkte 34; its history, 111.
314, 31s; the “Twa Brigs,” 111.
31s. old Cramond Brig, 111.
squares, 11. XI,, XI8 ... INDEX. Christ’s Church at the Tron, I. 187 Christ‘s Church. Castle Hill. I. 82 Chrystie family,’The, ...

Vol. 6  p. 373 (Rel. 0.41)

The Cowgate.] THE CORPORATIONS. 265
of the first places where woollen goods were made,
and had, at one time, the most important wool
market in Britain.
The hatmakers were formed into a corporation
in 1473, when ten masters of the craft presented
a petition to that effect; but the bonnet-makers
did not receive their seal of cause till 1530, prior to
which they had been united with the walkers and
shearers, with whom they were bound to uphold
the al+a of St Mark in St Giles’s Church. In
the articles and conditions it contained ; but it is
said that a seal was issued In 1508, Thomas
Greg, (‘ Kirk-master of the flescheour craft,” OD
behalf of the same, brought before the Council a
complaint, that certain persons, not‘ freemen of the
craft or the burgh, interfered with their privileges,
and had them forbidden to sell meat, except on
Sunday and Monday, the free market days, “ quhill
thai obtene thair fredome.”
The coopers were incorporated in 1489, binding
-
INTERIOR OF THE CHAPEL OF ST. MARY MAGDALENE. -
1685 an Act of Parliament confirmed all their
privileges, together with those of the litsters, or
dyers. About the middle of the seventeenth century,
owing to the spread of the use of hats, instead of
the national bonnet, among the upper classes, this
society was reduced to so low a condition that
its members could neither support their families or
the expense of a society.
The fleshers were a very old corporation, but
the precise date of their charter is not very clear.
In 1483 regulations concerning the fleshers dealing
in fish in Lent, &c, were issued by the magistrates,
whom they petitioned in 1488 for a seal of
cause, which petition was taken into consideration by
the Council, who ratified and confirmed the whole of
83
themselves to uphold the altar of St. John in St.
Giles’s Church.
The walkers obtained their seal of cause in
August, 1500. They had an altar in the same
church dedicated to SS. Mark, Philip, and Jacob,
to which the following among other fees were
paid :-
Each master, on taking an apprentice paid ten
shillings Scots ; and on any master taking into his
service, either the apprentice or journeyman of any
other master, he paid twenty shillings Scots ; if any
craftsman was found working with cards in the
country, he was to forfeit the sum of fifteen shillings
Scots, to be equally divided between the work of
Si Giles’s, their altar, and the informer. It is also ... Cowgate.] THE CORPORATIONS. 265 of the first places where woollen goods were made, and had, at one time, the ...

Vol. 4  p. 265 (Rel. 0.4)

High StreetJ LORD BALMERINIO’S . HOUSE. 2’3
was promoted to the abbacy by James V. in 1539,
and was canonised two years afterwards at Rome,
according to Wilson; but no such name appears in
Butler’s “ Lives of the Fathers.”
Until within the last few years the whole of this
portion of the High Street was remarkable for its
ancient houses, all bearing unchanged the stamp
filled’with consternation, but all escaped without
injury. The ruins were removed, and on their
site was built, in 1850, a very handsome Gothic
church in connection with the Free Church body,
and named after the Reformer. Its foundationstone
was laid on the 18th of May, being a day
memorable in the annals of the great Non-intrusion
perfect longitudinal section through the edifice to
the people without, presenting suddenly a scene
as singular as some of those displayed by the
diabZe boiteux to the gaze of the student Don
Cleofas, when all the roofs of Madrid disappeared
before him.
Some of the inmates were seen in bed, others
were partaking of their humble morning meal, and
high up in the airy attic storey was seen an old
crone on the creepie stool, smoking at her ingle
Street, is an ancient stone land, on which is inscribed-
R.H. . HODIE . MIHI . CRAS . TIBI . CVR . IGITVR . CVRAS
There was a date, now unknown. This was the
property of Alison Bassandyne, daughter of Thomas
the printer, and spouse of John Ker, and by her
and others disposed of to John Binning in March,
1624; but the alley was long called Bassandyne’s
Close, till it took the name of Panmure, from the
residence therein of John Maule of Inverkeilory, ... StreetJ LORD BALMERINIO’S . HOUSE. 2’3 was promoted to the abbacy by James V. in 1539, and was canonised two ...

Vol. 2  p. 213 (Rel. 0.4)

GENERAL INDEX. 371
Black Watch, 11. 89, 138, 149, 179.
Black Wigs ClLb, 111. 123
Blackwood, Hnilie, 111. 15
Blackwood, William, I. 157, 291,
11. 139, 141, 142 ; the saloon in
his establinhment, 11. * 141 ; his
rrsidence, 111. 50
BfacA-wood's Mapasiw, 1. 339, 11.
322, 111. 195 288
23; ;Fa# ;2; ;7;g; 1.g WirZtors
11.140 IIP. 74
Blair,' Sir Jdmes Hunter, Lord
Provost, I. 179, 373, 376, 11. 283,
111. 89
Blair of Avontoun. Lord President.
236, 2 , II:27, 29, 120, 161, 271,
Blair Street, I. 245, 376, 11. 231,
Blarquhan Laird of 111. 36
BIair's Cl&, I. 65. & 11. 329 ;the
Duke of Gordon's house, 1. *p
Blairs of Balthayock, Tom-house
ofthe 11. 139
Blanc, kippolyte J., architect, 111.
38
Bland, the comedian, I. 342, 343
Blaw Wearie 111. 305
Bkis-sifwr, ?he gratuity, 11. 290,
383, 119. 45, 1 3 6 ~ 2 ~
Zj8,III. I
291
Blew Stone The I. 79
Blind Schdl, Cdigmillar, 11. 336
Blockhouse of St. Anthony. Leith.
111. 222, "23
J'Blue Blanket," The, I. 34, '36,
43, 11. 262, 278, 111. 55
Blumenreich, Herr, 111.88
Blyth's Close, 1. ga, 111. 66
Bmk's Land, West Port, I. 224
Boar Club The 111. IW
Board of Manuiactnres, 11. 8 3 4 6 ,
Body-snatchers Early 11. 1.w
B o ~ l l y , R o d n ci& near, 111.
Bo%l?yTower 111. 326 "328
Bonham, Sir Galter. II.'57
Bonkel Sir Edward I. 304
Bonnet'birds' club', 111.123
Bonnet-makers The 11. 265
Bonnington, n&r Le'ith, 11.~5,III.
W. ,306 ; view in, 111. * 96
Bonntngton House, 111. 88, 91,
*93, 147
Bonnington Mill, 111. 90, 247
Bonniugton Road, l I I . 8 8 , 1 2 8 , 1 ~ ,
Bonnington Sugar-refining Com-
Bonnyhaugh 111.90 gr
Bordeaux, &c de,Hr Holyrood,
Boreland homas the pcssessor of
the k&g$ stable, 11. 225; his
house I. * 80 1I.a25,n6
Bore-s&e or hare-stone, The, I.
326, 111. 28
Bomwlaski, ;he '8o?i;h dwarf, 11.
166.167
Borthwick, Lord, I. 40, 262, 11.383,
Borthwick, Jam- 11. 383
Borthwick's Close, I. 190, 211, 242
BosweIl, Sir Alexander, 1.173.182,
88, 92, 186
'7'1 '84
pany, Leith, 111. 91. 236
11. 78, 7%
Ill. 348
2x39 243.258
101, 18% 299911. 66, 143 255 339
ifs9 ; Lord hlacaulay s :pinion 01
his father and mother, 'jq; o n.wn's visit to Edinburgh,
I. z 9, IIL.57, 291, 35a
Bormll Raj, Wardte, Ill. 308
Boswell's Court, I.
Botanical gardenq, %e, I. 362,363,
Bothwell, Earfs of,' I. 94 122, 168,
Bo=vell, Jam=, I. 6 8 3 , 97, 98, 99,
111. 159, 161 162 163
196, 106, m7, 209, 2 1 0 ~ 2 4 ~ ~ 258,
259, 266, 276, 298, 3741 11. 61, 71,
72 111. 3 6,7, 52, 6 1 , ~ ~ 174,
33; ; Lord fi arnlefs murder 111.
3-7 * marruge of Queen kary
to the Earl of, I. 219. 11. 71,
262; how Bothwell attracted the
Queen's notice, 11. 102
Rothwell, Adam, Bishop of Orkney,
I. 116, q, 11. 48, 49, 71,
181, 111. 35, 98
Bothwell, ohn Lord, 11. 49
Hothwell, Air Francis, 111. 35
Hothwell, ohn I 47 158
Hothwell AichArd, PAvost of Kirk-
Bothwell of Glencorse, Henry, I. pa
Bothwell Bridge, 11. 39, 87. 375
Bottle House Company, Leith, 111.
Bough, Samuel, the artist, 11. 86,
Boulder, Gigantic, 11. 312
Bourse, The, Leith, 111. 231; its
other names, ib.
Bower, the historian of Edinburgh
University, 111. 8, 9. 10. 11, 16,
of-Fielh, 111. 2
239
Ill. 68
. .
18 19, 308
BokFoot, The, 11. 13'
Rowfoot Well. I. 310 11. 233
Bowles, Caroline, 11.'-
Boyd, Lord, 111. 174, 180
Boyd Sir Thomas nmtewn, Lord
Bo d, J o k , Slaubhter of'the ruf-
PrdVOSt 11. 284 i11.88 288
Ln. 11. a
4 4 $1, 4 ,'326, a;i, 347, fi.- . "Braid dugh Somewilk of the
Writes " 1. 315, 16
Braid, L i r d of, IIt. 49
Braid The river 111. 143, 322
Braid'Village o< 111. to, 113 ;ex*
c d o n near, 1iI. 40; its historical
asxiations, 111. 41
Braid's Row 111. 75
Braidsbum, 'I. 326, 111. 49, 61, 327
Brand, Sir Alexander, I. m3, 378,
Brandof Baberton, Alexander, 111.
Brandfield P h 11.218
Brandfield Stree; 11. ar
Braxfield, Lord, i, 173, 11. 152,153,
Bread. Sale of. determined bv law.
11.21
334
339 . . 11.;80 '
Brea&lbe Earlof 1.378 I11 146
Breadalbani Marqkis of,'II.'86;
Breadalbme Stdet. Leith. 111. ax.
Marchion& of 11. zog
. . _ _ 236
II.84,111.2 9
Breakwater,TheNewhaven III.303
Bremner, David, 1. 283, 384,
Brewers, The &inburgh, 11. 68
Brewster, Sir David, 1.379,II. 140,
f57,III. q, 242: statueof 111.24
Brilxs, Acceptance of, by'judgea
and others, 1. 163, 164, 167,169
Brickfield, 111. 144
Bridewell, The, 11. 106, IT
Bridge-end, 111. 58
Bridges, Sir Egerton, I. 273
Bridges David, cloth merchnot,
Bright, John, M.P., 11. 284
Brighton Chapel, 11. 326
Brighton Place, Portobello 111.148
Hrlsbane, Sir T., Father d 11. 199
Bristo, 11. 135, 267, w, Ilt. 94
Bristo Park 11. 326
Bristo Port,'I. 38, 11. 234, 267, 316,
T3t.3249 325, 3 4 '32% 3Pp 379,
Brisro Street, I. 335, 11. 326.327,
I. I ~ ' - I I O ; his wife, I. 110
11. 94, 156
British Convention, The, 11. 236 ;
British Linen Company, I. a79.280,
11s governors and patrons, 1. 279
British Linen Co.'s Bank, Edinburgh
11 170 171, 172; at
Leith'III'z38 '23
British h e ; Hail, &nongate, 11.
31, 33, 83
xilure of its members, id.
355, 11. 33, 93, '731 '74, 111.344;
Broadstairs House, Causewayside,
Broad Wknd, Leith, 111. 167, 210,
111. 50 "52
236,238
Brodie, Deacon, Robberies cammitted
by, I. 1 1 s r 1 5 * 116. 217,
11.23, Ill. 3t7: lantein and keys
used by I. 115 : execution of,
1. 1x5 ; herview between Bmdie
and Smith, 1. * 117; his method
of robbery 11. 23
Brodie William the sculptor, I. 159,
Brodie s klos; 1.112
Brwke, Gnsdvus V., the actor, I.
357
Brwm Stock of, I. 377
Bmugham, Lord, I. 166, 379, 11.
i11 113 157 I 287, 292.347,
111: y :his b k a a c e , I. 168; his
mother, I. 168, 242 ; burial-place
nfhisfathcr,lII. 131 ; his statue,
1. I59
Bmughton, 1.335,II.3,191,III. 151
Broughton, Barony of, 11. I&
185, 186, 366,111. 83 86 I
Bmughton Hum in 1850, 184
Broughton Hall, Ill. 88, * 93
Broughton Loan, 11. E+ 115, 176,
Broughton Park, 111. 88
Broughton Place, 11. 183, 184
Broughton Street, 11. 178, 179, 183,
11. ;30 155 ill. 68,101
I&, 186, 188
184
Broughtan T o l b t h , The, 11. * 181
Broughton loll, 111. 95
Bronnga, John, the Nevhaven
Brown CaGt. Sir ?&uel, 111. 303
Brown: George, the builder, 11. 2%
B m . Thomas. architect. 11. IOI
hsherman 111. 5 p 6
~ m m ; Rev. Alexander, irr. 75-
Brown, Rev. Dr., 111. 51
Brown Square, 1. g1.11.260,268,
269, 274 =71r 339
Broww, Dr. James, I. 190, 339,II.
1 4 314, 111. 79
Browne Dr. Thomas, 11.395
Browndll, Williim, the naval adventurer,
I I I . I ~ ,
Rrownhill, the builder, 1. 98
Brown's Chapel (Or. John), Rose
Street, 11. 15 , 184
Brown's close 1. 8: p
Brown's taveA, Lkkgate Leith
111. 914 ; singular tragedy in, ib:
Browns of Greenbank, The, I. go
Hruce Lord 11. 354
Bruce: Sir hiichael 11. 168
BNC~ of Balcaskd and Kinross,
Sir William architect of Holyrood
Palace'l. 336 11. 74, 367
Bruce. Robe;. Lord Kennrtt. 11.
242
Rruce, Robert, sword of, 111. 355
Hruce Lady 111. 158
nruce'of RiAng's mansion, I. 2-4
Bruce of Kinnaird, the traveller, 1.
247, 111,162
Brucr of Kinloss, Lady, 11. 257
Rruce of Powfoulis Mrs 11. 16a
Bruce Michael, th: Sco;;ish Kirke
White, 111. 219
B ~ c e ' s Close, I. 223
Brunstane, 11. 34
Hrunstane Rum 111. 149
Brunstane, Laid of, 111. 150
Brunstane manor-house, 111. 149,
1509 Tl579.366
Brunsmck btmt, 111. 81
Hruntan Dr. I. 79 111. 83
Brunton'Pla& 191.
Bruntsfield Links, 11. 115,137, 222,
313, 348, 111. q~ 34 31, 33, 43 ;
the avenue 111. '33
Bruntsfield dr Warrender House,
Bryce, David, thearchitect, 11. 95,
97, 154 174 210, 359, 111. 82
Rryce John architect 11. 359
Brysoh Rodert 1.37;
Yuccle;ch, D&s of, 11. 21, 86,
211, 9 3 , 318, 358, 111. 198, 2x9,
d37 265, 270, F, 30% 311, 3r4 ;
Duchessof 11.115
Bucckuch, Hemy Duke of, 11. 310
Buccleuch Lady of 1. z06
Buccleuch'Free ChArch, 11. 346
Buccleuch Place, 11. 148, a68, 347,
Bucckoch Street, II. 339
111. 45,46, *48,
Ill. '25
Buchan, Earl of, 1. 34, 11. 8 6 , s ~
1% 2% 339, 111. 2s 123, 1%
180, 314
Buchanaii, George, I. 16, 143, 167,
206, ~ 5 . *4, 11. 67. 127. 363
111. 14 179, 19. -1, 998,363.
memorial window in new Greyfriars
Church, 11. 379
Bnchanan, lk. k'raocis, botanist,
111. 1-52
Buchanan of Auchintorlie, 11.159
Buchanan Street, 111. 15
Buckingham Tenace, 119. 67
Bnckstane The 111. 342
Buildings 'in Edinburgh, Ancient
laws regulating the I. rl
Bull, Capture of Sir 'Stephen, 111.
Bullock, William ; his plan for the
re-capture of Edinburgh Castle,
202
I. 25, 26.
Bunker's Hill, I. $6
Burdiehoux, 111. 342; fossil dLcoveries
near, id. .
Burdiehouse Burn 111. 322, 339
Burgess Close, Leith, 111.164 167.
Burgh Loch,The, 11. zgc, 346, 347,
Burg Loch Brewery, 11.349
Burphmuir. The. 1. U. ~ O A . ?I&
227, 232, 234, 249
* q 9 , 354
33r 326, >a3, iiL;;
35 170 342; muster of troops
udder jam- 111. and James IV.,
Ill. 28. the k - s c a n e , 111.~8,
* z g ; :dud in 17za, 111. p;
Valleyfield House and Leven
Ledge, id.; Barclay Freechurch,
76.; Hruntsfield Links and the
Golf clubs, ib. ; Gillespie's Hospital,
111. & *37: M e r c h w
Castle, ILI. 9% P**r 26
Burghmuir, Dlstrict of the, 111. q
-y ; battle of the (see Battles)
Burghmuir-head mad, 111. 38; thc
Free Church, i6.
Burial-ground, The first, in =inburgh,
I. 149
Burials under church porticoes, 11.
247
Burke and Hare, the murderers L
Im, 11. 226-230, Ill. 27
Burleigh Lord 1.127 ; escape from
the l.oiboot$ ib.
Burn, Willkm the architect, 11.
171, 111. 34 b8 85 255
Burnet, Jamei oith: TownGuud.
11.311
Burnet, Sir Thomas, 11. 147
Burnet of Monboddo, Miss, I. iq.
111.42
Burney, Dr the musician 11. zg
Burning of'ihe Pope in ;figy by
the Universitystudents, 111. II-
13. 57
Burns, Robert, I. 3,106, 107, 11g.
IW 154 171, 178, 17% 232,236.
I Y, 159, 187, 188, wl 27, 333
2397 348, 366, 11. p4 27. 307 3%
191. 42, 55, 161, 352 ; Ftxman s
statne of, 11.88, 110; Nasmyth's
y t r a i t of, 11. @ ; monument of,
1. 11% *IIZ; bust by Brodi,
11. 110: head Or, 11. 127
Bums' centenary The first 11.150
Burns, Colonel W. Nicol, &e poet's
son 11. Sg
Burn:, Miss, and Bailie Crcech, II. '
Bnrniisland, I. 58,111.180, 188,191,
158, 159
211,314
Burtou, Ur. John Hill, I. 98, 111.
42, 43; his literary work.. 111.
'
43
able article, 11. 219
86,111. 13:
Butcher meat formerly an unsale-
Bute, Earl of, 1. 164, 179, 272, 11.
Bute, Marquis of, 11. 346
Bute's Battery, 1. 78
Butler, John, the king's carpenter,
Butter Tron, The, I. 50,
thtters of F'itlochry, %'Le, 11.
11. 136
5 218
143
Byres, Sir John, I. 153, 219, 11-GENERAL INDEX. 371
Black Watch, 11. 89, 138, 149, 179.
Black Wigs ClLb, 111. 123
Blackwood, Hnilie, 111. 15
Blackwood, William, I. 157, 291,
11. 139, 141, 142 ; the saloon in
his establinhment, 11. * 141 ; his
rrsidence, 111. 50
BfacA-wood's Mapasiw, 1. 339, 11.
322, 111. 195 288
23; ;Fa# ;2; ;7;g; 1.g WirZtors
11.140 IIP. 74
Blair,' Sir Jdmes Hunter, Lord
Provost, I. 179, 373, 376, 11. 283,
111. 89
Blair of Avontoun. Lord President.
236, 2 , II:27, 29, 120, 161, 271,
Blair Street, I. 245, 376, 11. 231,
Blarquhan Laird of 111. 36
BIair's Cl&, I. 65. & 11. 329 ;the
Duke of Gordon's house, 1. *p
Blairs of Balthayock, Tom-house
ofthe 11. 139
Blanc, kippolyte J., architect, 111.
38
Bland, the comedian, I. 342, 343
Blaw Wearie 111. 305
Bkis-sifwr, ?he gratuity, 11. 290,
383, 119. 45, 1 3 6 ~ 2 ~
Zj8,III. I
291
Blew Stone The I. 79
Blind Schdl, Cdigmillar, 11. 336
Blockhouse of St. Anthony. Leith.
111. 222, "23
J'Blue Blanket," The, I. 34, '36,
43, 11. 262, 278, 111. 55
Blumenreich, Herr, 111.88
Blyth's Close, 1. ga, 111. 66
Bmk's Land, West Port, I. 224
Boar Club The 111. IW
Board of Manuiactnres, 11. 8 3 4 6 ,
Body-snatchers Early 11. 1.w
B o ~ l l y , R o d n ci& near, 111.
Bo%l?yTower 111. 326 "328
Bonham, Sir Galter. II.'57
Bonkel Sir Edward I. 304
Bonnet'birds' club', 111.123
Bonnet-makers The 11. 265
Bonnington, n&r Le'ith, 11.~5,III.
W. ,306 ; view in, 111. * 96
Bonntngton House, 111. 88, 91,
*93, 147
Bonnington Mill, 111. 90, 247
Bonniugton Road, l I I . 8 8 , 1 2 8 , 1 ~ ,
Bonnington Sugar-refining Com-
Bonnyhaugh 111.90 gr
Bordeaux, &c de,Hr Holyrood,
Boreland homas the pcssessor of
the k&g$ stable, 11. 225; his
house I. * 80 1I.a25,n6
Bore-s&e or hare-stone, The, I.
326, 111. 28
Bomwlaski, ;he '8o?i;h dwarf, 11.
166.167
Borthwick, Lord, I. 40, 262, 11.383,
Borthwick, Jam- 11. 383
Borthwick's Close, I. 190, 211, 242
BosweIl, Sir Alexander, 1.173.182,
88, 92, 186
'7'1 '84
pany, Leith, 111. 91. 236
11. 78, 7%
Ill. 348
2x39 243.258
101, 18% 299911. 66, 143 255 339
ifs9 ; Lord hlacaulay s :pinion 01
his father and mother, 'jq; o n.wn's visit to Edinburgh,
I. z 9, IIL.57, 291, 35a
Bormll Raj, Wardte, Ill. 308
Boswell's Court, I.
Botanical gardenq, %e, I. 362,363,
Bothwell, Earfs of,' I. 94 122, 168,
Bo=vell, Jam=, I. 6 8 3 , 97, 98, 99,
111. 159, 161 162 163
196, 106, m7, 209, 2 1 0 ~ 2 4 ~ ~ 258,
259, 266, 276, 298, 3741 11. 61, 71,
72 111. 3 6,7, 52, 6 1 , ~ ~ 174,
33; ; Lord fi arnlefs murder 111.
3-7 * marruge of Queen kary
to the Earl of, I. 219. 11. 71,
262; how Bothwell attracted the
Queen's notice, 11. 102
Rothwell, Adam, Bishop of Orkney,
I. 116, q, 11. 48, 49, 71,
181, 111. 35, 98
Bothwell, ohn Lord, 11. 49
Hothwell, Air Francis, 111. 35
Hothwell, ohn I 47 158
Hothwell AichArd, PAvost of Kirk-
Bothwell of Glencorse, Henry, I. pa
Bothwell Bridge, 11. 39, 87. 375
Bottle House Company, Leith, 111.
Bough, Samuel, the artist, 11. 86,
Boulder, Gigantic, 11. 312
Bourse, The, Leith, 111. 231; its
other names, ib.
Bower, the historian of Edinburgh
University, 111. 8, 9. 10. 11, 16,
of-Fielh, 111. 2
239
Ill. 68
. .
18 19, 308
BokFoot, The, 11. 13'
Rowfoot Well. I. 310 11. 233
Bowles, Caroline, 11.'-
Boyd, Lord, 111. 174, 180
Boyd Sir Thomas nmtewn, Lord
Bo d, J o k , Slaubhter of'the ruf-
PrdVOSt 11. 284 i11.88 288
Ln. 11. a
4 4 $1, 4 ,'326, a;i, 347, fi.- . "Braid dugh Somewilk of the
Writes " 1. 315, 16
Braid, L i r d of, IIt. 49
Braid The river 111. 143, 322
Braid'Village o< 111. to, 113 ;ex*
c d o n near, 1iI. 40; its historical
asxiations, 111. 41
Braid's Row 111. 75
Braidsbum, 'I. 326, 111. 49, 61, 327
Brand, Sir Alexander, I. m3, 378,
Brandof Baberton, Alexander, 111.
Brandfield P h 11.218
Brandfield Stree; 11. ar
Braxfield, Lord, i, 173, 11. 152,153,
Bread. Sale of. determined bv law.
11.21
334
339 . . 11.;80 '
Brea&lbe Earlof 1.378 I11 146
Breadalbani Marqkis of,'II.'86;
Breadalbme Stdet. Leith. 111. ax.
Marchion& of 11. zog
. . _ _ 236
II.84,111.2 9
Breakwater,TheNewhaven III.303
Bremner, David, 1. 283, 384,
Brewers, The &inburgh, 11. 68
Brewster, Sir David, 1.379,II. 140,
f57,III. q, 242: statueof 111.24
Brilxs, Acceptance of, by'judgea
and others, 1. 163, 164, 167,169
Brickfield, 111. 144
Bridewell, The, 11. 106, IT
Bridge-end, 111. 58
Bridges, Sir Egerton, I. 273
Bridges David, cloth merchnot,
Bright, John, M.P., 11. 284
Brighton Chapel, 11. 326
Brighton Place, Portobello 111.148
Hrlsbane, Sir T., Father d 11. 199
Bristo, 11. 135, 267, w, Ilt. 94
Bristo Park 11. 326
Bristo Port,'I. 38, 11. 234, 267, 316,
T3t.3249 325, 3 4 '32% 3Pp 379,
Brisro Street, I. 335, 11. 326.327,
I. I ~ ' - I I O ; his wife, I. 110
11. 94, 156
British Convention, The, 11. 236 ;
British Linen Company, I. a79.280,
11s governors and patrons, 1. 279
British Linen Co.'s Bank, Edinburgh
11 170 171, 172; at
Leith'III'z38 '23
British h e ; Hail, &nongate, 11.
31, 33, 83
xilure of its members, id.
355, 11. 33, 93, '731 '74, 111.344;
Broadstairs House, Causewayside,
Broad Wknd, Leith, 111. 167, 210,
111. 50 "52
236,238
Brodie, Deacon, Robberies cammitted
by, I. 1 1 s r 1 5 * 116. 217,
11.23, Ill. 3t7: lantein and keys
used by I. 115 : execution of,
1. 1x5 ; herview between Bmdie
and Smith, 1. * 117; his method
of robbery 11. 23
Brodie William the sculptor, I. 159,
Brodie s klos; 1.112
Brwke, Gnsdvus V., the actor, I.
357
Brwm Stock of, I. 377
Bmugham, Lord, I. 166, 379, 11.
i11 113 157 I 287, 292.347,
111: y :his b k a a c e , I. 168; his
mother, I. 168, 242 ; burial-place
nfhisfathcr,lII. 131 ; his statue,
1. I59
Bmughton, 1.335,II.3,191,III. 151
Broughton, Barony of, 11. I&
185, 186, 366,111. 83 86 I
Bmughton Hum in 1850, 184
Broughton Hall, Ill. 88, * 93
Broughton Loan, 11. E+ 115, 176,
Broughton Park, 111. 88
Broughton Place, 11. 183, 184
Broughton Street, 11. 178, 179, 183,
11. ;30 155 ill. 68,101
I&, 186, 188
184
Broughtan T o l b t h , The, 11. * 181
Broughton loll, 111. 95
Bronnga, John, the Nevhaven
Brown CaGt. Sir ?&uel, 111. 303
Brown: George, the builder, 11. 2%
B m . Thomas. architect. 11. IOI
hsherman 111. 5 p 6
~ m m ; Rev. Alexander, irr. 75-
Brown, Rev. Dr., 111. 51
Brown Square, 1. g1.11.260,268,
269, 274 =71r 339
Broww, Dr. James, I. 190, 339,II.
1 4 314, 111. 79
Browne Dr. Thomas, 11.395
Browndll, Williim, the naval adventurer,
I I I . I ~ ,
Rrownhill, the builder, 1. 98
Brown's Chapel (Or. John), Rose
Street, 11. 15 , 184
Brown's close 1. 8: p
Brown's taveA, Lkkgate Leith
111. 914 ; singular tragedy in, ib:
Browns of Greenbank, The, I. go
Hruce Lord 11. 354
Bruce: Sir hiichael 11. 168
BNC~ of Balcaskd and Kinross,
Sir William architect of Holyrood
Palace'l. 336 11. 74, 367
Bruce. Robe;. Lord Kennrtt. 11.
242
Rruce, Robert, sword of, 111. 355
Hruce Lady 111. 158
nruce'of RiAng's mansion, I. 2-4
Bruce of Kinnaird, the traveller, 1.
247, 111,162
Brucr of Kinloss, Lady, 11. 257
Rruce of Powfoulis Mrs 11. 16a
Bruce Michael, th: Sco;;ish Kirke
White, 111. 219
B ~ c e ' s Close, I. 223
Brunstane, 11. 34
Hrunstane Rum 111. 149
Brunstane, Laid of, 111. 150
Brunstane manor-house, 111. 149,
1509 Tl579.366
Brunsmck btmt, 111. 81
Hruntan Dr. I. 79 111. 83
Brunton'Pla& 191.
Bruntsfield Links, 11. 115,137, 222,
313, 348, 111. q~ 34 31, 33, 43 ;
the avenue 111. '33
Bruntsfield dr Warrender House,
Bryce, David, thearchitect, 11. 95,
97, 154 174 210, 359, 111. 82
Rryce John architect 11. 359
Brysoh Rodert 1.37;
Yuccle;ch, D&s of, 11. 21, 86,
211, 9 3 , 318, 358, 111. 198, 2x9,
d37 265, 270, F, 30% 311, 3r4 ;
Duchessof 11.115
Bucckuch, Hemy Duke of, 11. 310
Buccleuch Lady of 1. z06
Buccleuch'Free ChArch, 11. 346
Buccleuch Place, 11. 148, a68, 347,
Bucckoch Street, II. 339
111. 45,46, *48,
Ill. '25
Buchan, Earl of, 1. 34, 11. 8 6 , s ~
1% 2% 339, 111. 2s 123, 1%
180, 314
Buchanaii, George, I. 16, 143, 167,
206, ~ 5 . *4, 11. 67. 127. 363
111. 14 179, 19. -1, 998,363.
memorial window in new Greyfriars
Church, 11. 379
Bnchanan, lk. k'raocis, botanist,
111. 1-52
Buchanan of Auchintorlie, 11.159
Buchanan Street, 111. 15
Buckingham Tenace, 119. 67
Bnckstane The 111. 342
Buildings 'in Edinburgh, Ancient
laws regulating the I. rl
Bull, Capture of Sir 'Stephen, 111.
Bullock, William ; his plan for the
re-capture of Edinburgh Castle,
202
I. 25, 26.
Bunker's Hill, I. $6
Burdiehoux, 111. 342; fossil dLcoveries
near, id. .
Burdiehouse Burn 111. 322, 339
Burgess Close, Leith, 111.164 167.
Burgh Loch,The, 11. zgc, 346, 347,
Burg Loch Brewery, 11.349
Burphmuir. The. 1. U. ~ O A . ?I&
227, 232, 234, 249
* q 9 , 354
33r 326, >a3, iiL;;
35 170 342; muster of troops
udder jam- 111. and James IV.,
Ill. 28. the k - s c a n e , 111.~8,
* z g ; :dud in 17za, 111. p;
Valleyfield House and Leven
Ledge, id.; Barclay Freechurch,
76.; Hruntsfield Links and the
Golf clubs, ib. ; Gillespie's Hospital,
111. & *37: M e r c h w
Castle, ILI. 9% P**r 26
Burghmuir, Dlstrict of the, 111. q
-y ; battle of the (see Battles)
Burghmuir-head mad, 111. 38; thc
Free Church, i6.
Burial-ground, The first, in =inburgh,
I. 149
Burials under church porticoes, 11.
247
Burke and Hare, the murderers L
Im, 11. 226-230, Ill. 27
Burleigh Lord 1.127 ; escape from
the l.oiboot$ ib.
Burn, Willkm the architect, 11.
171, 111. 34 b8 85 255
Burnet, Jamei oith: TownGuud.
11.311
Burnet, Sir Thomas, 11. 147
Burnet of Monboddo, Miss, I. iq.
111.42
Burney, Dr the musician 11. zg
Burning of'ihe Pope in ;figy by
the Universitystudents, 111. II-
13. 57
Burns, Robert, I. 3,106, 107, 11g.
IW 154 171, 178, 17% 232,236.
I Y, 159, 187, 188, wl 27, 333
2397 348, 366, 11. p4 27. 307 3%
191. 42, 55, 161, 352 ; Ftxman s
statne of, 11.88, 110; Nasmyth's
y t r a i t of, 11. @ ; monument of,
1. 11% *IIZ; bust by Brodi,
11. 110: head Or, 11. 127
Bums' centenary The first 11.150
Burns, Colonel W. Nicol, &e poet's
son 11. Sg
Burn:, Miss, and Bailie Crcech, II. '
Bnrniisland, I. 58,111.180, 188,191,
158, 159
211,314
Burtou, Ur. John Hill, I. 98, 111.
42, 43; his literary work.. 111.
'
43
able article, 11. 219
86,111. 13:
Butcher meat formerly an unsale-
Bute, Earl of, 1. 164, 179, 272, 11.
Bute, Marquis of, 11. 346
Bute's Battery, 1. 78
Butler, John, the king's carpenter,
Butter Tron, The, I. 50,
thtters of F'itlochry, %'Le, 11.
11. 136
5 218
143
Byres, Sir John, I. 153, 219, 11- ... INDEX. 371 Black Watch, 11. 89, 138, 149, 179. Black Wigs ClLb, 111. 123 Blackwood, Hnilie, 111. ...

Vol. 6  p. 371 (Rel. 0.4)

1628, by numerous wooden booths being stuck up
all around it, chiefly between the buttresses, some
of which were actually cut away for this ignoble
purpose, while the lower tracery of the windows
was destroyed by their lean-to roofs, just as we
may see still in the instance of many churches
in Belgium. These wretched edifices were called
the Krames, yet, as if to show that some reverence
was still paid to the sanctity of the place, the
Town Council decreed, ‘‘ that no tradesman should
be admitted to these shops except bookbinders,
mortmakers (i.e. watchmakers)] jewellers, and goldsmiths.”
“ Bookbinders,” says Robert Chambers,
“must be in this instance meant to signify booksellers,
the latter term being then unknown in
Scotland ;” but within the memory of many still
Displaying double-beaded winged dmgons clustering round a central rose with the hook of the altar lam?.
Sanction was given in the early part of 1878
by the municipal authorities for extensive restorations,
to be conducted in a spirit and taste un
known to thebarbarous “improvers” of 1829. At
the head of the restoration committee was placed
Dr. Rilliam Chambers, the well-known publisher
and author. According to the plans laid before
it, the last of the temporary partitions were to be
removed, the rich-shaped pillars embedded therein
to be uncovered and restored ; the galleries and
pews swept away, when the church will assume its
old cruciform aspect. “ By these operations the
Montrose aisle will be uncovered, and form an
interesting historical object. Provision is made
for the Knights of the Thistle, if they should desire
it, erecting their stalls, as is done by the Knights of
east angle of the church. Another account says
they were named from the infamous Lady March,
wife of the Earl of Arran, the profligate chancellor
of James VI., from whom the nine o’clock bell
was also named “The Lady Bell,” as it was rung
an hour later to suit herself. An old gentlewoman
mentioned in the ‘‘ Traditions of Edinburgh,” who
died in 1802, was wont to own that she had, in
her youth, seen both the sfdtue and the steps ; but
it is extremely unlikely that the former would
escape the iconoclasts of 1559, who left the church
almost a ruin.
But time has accomplished a change that John
Knox and “Jenny Geddes” could fittle foresee !
was ordered for the church. “The instrument,”
says the Scofsmzn, “consists of two full manuals
and a pedal organ of full compass. The great
organ contains eleven stops, and one of sixteen
feet in metal. There are eleven stops in the
swell organ, and one of sixteen feet in wood.
The pedal organ contains five stops, including two
of sixteen feet in wood, and one of sixteen feet in
metal. In the great organ there is to be a silver
clarionet of eight feet; a patent pneumatic action
is fitted to the keys, and the organ will be blown
by a double cylinder hydraulic engine.”
In its most palmy days old St. Gilas’s couldnevei
boast of such “a kist 0’ whistles ” as this ! ... by numerous wooden booths being stuck up all around it, chiefly between the buttresses, some of which were ...

Vol. 1  p. 147 (Rel. 0.4)

88 OLD AND NEW
Street; and till 1856 the annual sittings of the Free
Assembly were held in it.
Here, too, in 1847, it witnessed the constituting
of the Synods of the Secession and Relief Churches
into the Synod of the United Presbyterian Church
of Scotland.
Old Canonmills House, which faced Fettes Row,
has been removed, and on its site was erected,
in 1880-1, a handsome United Presbyterian Church
within a crescent.
In the month of October, 1879, there was laid
at Bellevue Crescent, by the Lord Provost (Sir
Thomas Boyd), in presence of a vast concourse
of people, the foundation stone of a handsome
German church-the first of its kind in Scotlandfor
the congregation of Hem Blumenreich, which
for a number of years preceding had been wont to
meet in the Queen Street Hall. The Provost
was presented with a silver trowel wherewith to
lay the stone. Tie cost was estimated at &2,600.
The building was designed by Mr. Wemyss,
architect, Leith, in the Pointed Gothic style, for
350 sitters.
Where now Claremont Terrace andBellevueStreet
zre erected in Broughton Park, there existed,
EDINBURGH. [Canonmills.
between 1840 and 1867, the Zoological Gardens
(a small imitation of the old Vauxhall Gardens in
London), where the storming of Lucknow and other
such scenes of the Indian mutiny used to be nightly
represented, the combatants being parties of soldiers
from the Castle, the fortifications and so forth
being illuminated transparencies. Unfortunately or
otherwise the gardens proved a failure. Among
the last animals here were two magnificent tigers,
sent from India by the then Governor-General, the
‘Marquis of Dalhousie, and afterwards, we believe,
transmitted to the Zoological Gardens in London.
Here, too, was Wood’s Victoria Hall, a large
timber-built edifice for musical entertainments,
which was open till about 1857.
Eastward of old Broughton Hall here, and bordering
on the old Bonnington Road, are various little
properties and quaint little mansion-houses, such
as Powderhall, Redbraes, Stewartfield, Bonnington
House, and Pilrig, some of them situated where
the Leith winds under wooded banks and past little
nooks that are almost sylvan still-and each of
these has. its own little history or traditions.
Powderhall, down in a dell, latterly the property
of Colonel Macdonald, in 1761 was the residence ... OLD AND NEW Street; and till 1856 the annual sittings of the Free Assembly were held in it. Here, too, in ...

Vol. 5  p. 88 (Rel. 0.4)

I34 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [West Church.
When peace came, Messrs. McVicar and Pitcairn,
his coadjutor, continued faithfully and successfully
to discharge the duties of the ministry.
In 1247 Mr. McVicar, when about to deliver
one of the old Thursday sermons, suddenly dropped
down dead ; and amid a vast concourse of sorrowing
parishioners was deposited in his tomb, which
has a plain marble monument. A well-painted
portrait of him hangs in the vestry of the present
church.
His colleague, the Rev. Thomas Pitcairn, followed
him on the 13th of June, 1751, and a pyramidal
stone, erected to his memory by his youngest
daughter, stands in the ancient burying-ground.
So early as 1738 attempts were made to violate
graves, for surgical purposes, in the churchyard,
which, of course, was then a lonely and sequestered
place, and though the boundary walls were raised
eight feet high, they failed to be a protection, as
watchers who were appointed connived at, rather
than prevented, a practice which filled the parishioners
with rage and horror.
Hence, notwithstanding all the efforts of the
Session to prevent such violation of tombs, several
bodies were abstracted in 1742. George Haldane,
one of the beadles, was suspected of assisting in this
repulsive practice; and on the 9th of May his
house at Maryfield was surrounded by an infuriated
mob, and burned to the ground.
The old church, which stood for ages,and had been
in succession a Catholic, Presbyterian, Episcopalian,
and finally a Presbyterian place of worship again,
and which had been gutted and pillaged by Reformers
and Cromwellians, and cannon-shotted in
civil wars, was found to be dangerous, and condemned
to be taken down. Although the edifice
was insufficient, and in some parts dangerous, there
was no immediate cause for the growing terror
that pervaded the congregation, and culminated in
a general alarm on Sunday, the 27th September,
1772. Part of a seat in one of the galleries gave
way with a crash, on which the entire assembled
mass rushed to the doors, and in an instant the
church was empty.
A jury of tradesmen met to inspect the church,
which they were of opinion should be taken down
without delay; but this verdict had hardly been
drawn up and read, than a fear seized them that
the old church would fall and bury them in its
ruins, on which they fled to the adjacent charity
work house.
The work of demolition was begun forthwith, and
when removing this venerable fane, the interior of
which now, “ formed after no plan, presented a multitude
of petty galleries stuck fip one above another
to the very rafters, like so many pigeons’-nests,” a
curious example of what is namqd heart-burial came
to light.
The workmen, says the .!!ots Migazine for September,
1773, discovered “ a leaden coffin, which
contained some bones and a leaden urn. Before
opening the urn, a most fragrant smell issued out ;
on inspecting the cause of it, they found a human
heart finely embalmed and in the highest state of
preservation. No inscription was upon the coffin
by which the date could be traced, but it must
have been there for centuries. It is conjectured
that the heart belonged to some person who, in the
time of the Crusades, had gone to the Holy Land,
and been there killed, and the heart, as was customary
in those times, embalmed and sent home
to be buried with some of the family.”
Prior to the erection of the new church, the congregation
assembled in a Methodist Chapel in the
Low Calton.
In 1775 it was completed in the hideous taste
and nameless style peculiar to Scottish ecclesiastical
irchitecture during the times of the first three
Georges. It cost A4,231, irrespective of its equally
hideous steeple, and is seated for about 3,000 persons,
and is now the mother church, associated with
ten others, for a parish which includes a great part
of the parliamentary burgh of the capital, and has
a population of more than 140,000. The church,
says a writer, “ apart from its supplemental steeple,
looks so like a huge stone box, that some wags
have described it as resembling a packing-case, out
of which the neighbouring beautiful toy-like fabric
of St. John’s Church has been lifted”
At the base of the spire is a fine piece of monumental
sculpture, from the chisel of the late Handyside
Ritchie, in memory of Dr. David Dickson, a
worthy and zealous pastor, who was minister of the
parish for forty years.
Some accounts state that Napier of Merchiston,
the inventor of logarithms, was interred in the
cemetery; but from an essay on the subject read
before the Antiquarian Society by Professor William
Wallace in 1832, there is conclusive evidence
given, from a work he quoted, “ that Napier was
buried without the West Port of Edinburgh, in the
church of St. Cuthbert,” and in a vault, in the
month of April, 1617.
The baronial family of Dean had also a vault
in the old church, which still remains under the
new, entering from the north. Above it is a
monumentaI stone from the old church, fo the
memory of Henry Nisbet of that ilk, by whom
we thus learn the vault was built. The arms
of the Dean family are still above this black ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [West Church. When peace came, Messrs. McVicar and Pitcairn, his coadjutor, continued ...

Vol. 3  p. 134 (Rel. 0.4)

224 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Weat Port.
~~ ~
the dreadful Irish murders in 1828; but its repute
was very different in the last century. Thus we find
in the Edinburgh papers for 1764, advertisedas to let
there, " the new-built house, beautifully situated on
the high ground south of the Portsburgh, commanding
an extensive prospect every way, with genteel
furniture, perfectly clean, presently possessed by
John Macdonald, Esq., of Lairgie," with chaisehouse
and stabling.
remained intact up till SO recently as 1881, while
around the large cupola and above the chief seat
were panels of coats of arms of the various city
crafts, and that also of the Portsburgh-all done in
oil, and in perfect condition. This court-room was
situated in the West Port. In its last days it was
rented from the city chamberlain by the deacons'
court of Dr. Chalmers' Territorial Church. Mission
meetings and Sunday-schools were held in it, but
OLD HOUSES IN THE WEST PORT, NEAR THE HAUNTS OF BURKE AND HARE, 1869
(Fsmn a Drawing Sy Mn. J. Stnvari Smith.)
Near the Territorial Church is a door above
which are the arms of the Cordiners of the Portsburgh-
a cordiner's cutting-knife crowned, within a
circle, with the heads of two winged cherubim, and
the words of Psalm 133, versified :-
" Behold how good a thing it is,
And how becoming well,
Together such as brethren are,
In unity to dwell.
I 696. "
One of the most complete of the few rare relics
of the City's old municipal institutions was the
court-room where the bailies of the ancient
Portsburgh discharged their official duties. The
bailies' bench, seats, and other court-room fittings
the site upon &hich it was built was sold by
roup for city improvements.
In the middle of the West Port, immediately
opposite the Chalmers Territorial Free Church
and Schools, and running due north, is a narrow
alley, called the Chapel Wynd. Heye, at the foot
thereof, stood in ancient times a chapel dedicated
to the Virgin Mary, some remains of which were
visible in the time of Maitland about 1750. Near
it is another alley-probably an access to itnamed
the Lady Wynd. Between this chapel and
the Castle Rock there exists, in name chiefly, an
ancient appendage of the royal palace in the
fortress-the king's stables, " although no hoof of
the royal stud has been there for well-nigh three
I ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Weat Port. ~~ ~ the dreadful Irish murders in 1828; but its repute was very ...

Vol. 4  p. 224 (Rel. 0.39)

96 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [The Mound.
arts classes as well as those for theology; and
accordingly Mr. Patrick C. Macdougal was appointed,
in 1844, Professor of Moral Philosophy,
the Rev. John Millar was appointed Classical Tutor,
and in 1845 the Rev. Alexander C. Fraser was
appointed Professor of Logic. To give effect to the
view long cherished by the revered Dr. Chalmers,
that logic and ethics should follow the mathematical
and physical sciences in the order of study, the
usual order thereof was practically altered, though
not imperatively so.
procured in George Street, and there the business
of the college was conducted until 1850.
These class-rooms were near the house ot
Mr. Nasmyth, an eminent dentist, and as the
students were in the habit of noisily applauding
Dr. Chalmers, their clamour often startled the
patients under the care of Mr. Nasmyth, who by
letter requested the reverend principal to make the
students moderate their applause, or express it
some other way than beating on the floor with
their feet. On this, Dr. Chalmers promptly informed
THE BANK OF SCOTLAND, FROM PRINCES STREET GARDENS.
The provision thus made for arts classes was
greatly due to the circumstance that at that time
the tests imposed upon professors in the established
universities were of such a nature and mode of
application as to exclude from the professorial
chairs all members of the Free Church.
When these tests were abolished, and Professors
Fraser and Macdougal were elected to corresponding
chairs in the University of Edinburgh, in
1853 and 1857, this extended platform was renounced,
and the efforts of the Free Church of
Scotland were concentrated exclusively upon training
in theology.
Premises-however, inadequate for the full
development of the intended system-were at once
them of the dentist’s complaint, and begged that
they would comply with his request. “I would
be sorry indeed if we were to give offence to any
neighbour,” said the principal j adding, with a touch
of that dry humour which was peculiar to him,
“but more especially Mr. Nasmyth, a gentleman
so very much in the mouths oi the public.”
Immediately after the Disruption, Dr. Chalmers
had taken active steps to secure for the Free
Church a proper system of theological training, in
full accordance with the principles he had
advocated so long, and subscription lists were at
once opened to procure a building suited to the
object. Each contributor gave Lz,ooo, and
Dr. Welsh succeeded in obtaining from twentp ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [The Mound. arts classes as well as those for theology; and accordingly Mr. Patrick C. ...

Vol. 3  p. 96 (Rel. 0.39)

132 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [West Church.
the 27th October, 1592, by ‘(the hail1 elderes, deacones,
and honest men of ye parochin . . . .
quha hes agreit, all in ane voice, that in all tymes
coming, thair be ane preaching everie Thursday,
and that it begin at nyne hours in ye morning, and
ye officer of ye kirk to gang with ye bell at aught
hours betwixt the Bow Fut and the Toun-end.”
This Thursday sermon was kept up until the middle
of the eighteenth century. The ‘‘ toun-end ” is
supposed to mean Fountain Bridge, sometimes of
old called the Causeway-end.
. In 1589 the Kirk Session ordained that none in
the parish should have ‘‘ yair bairnes ” baptised,
admitted to mamage, repentance, or alms, but
those who could repeat the Lord‘s Prayer, the
Belief, and the Commandments, and “gif ane
compt yair of, quhen yai ar examinet, and yis to be
publishit in ye polpete.” In the following year a
copy of the Confession of Faith and the National
Covenant was subscribed by the whole parish.
From the proximity of the church to the castle,
in the frequent sieges sustained by the latter, the
former suffered considerably, particularly after the
invention of artillery. At the Reformation it had
a roof of thatch, probably replacing a former one
of stone. The thatch was renewed in 1590, and
new windows and a loft were introduced; two
parts of the expense were borne by the parish, the
other by Adam, Bishop of Orkney, a taxation
which he vehemently contested. Among other
additions to the church was “a pillar for adulterers,”
built by John Howieson and John Gaims in August,
1591. The thatch was removedand theroof slated.
In 1594 a manse adjoining the church was built
for Mr. Robert Pont, on the ‘site of the present
one, into which is inserted an ancient fragment of
the former, inscribed-
RELIGIOXI ET POSTERIS
IN MINISTERIO.
S.R. P. G. A. 1594
The burying-ground in those days was confined
to the rising slope south-west of the church, and
as “ nolt, horse, and scheipe ” were in the habit
of grazing there, the wall being in ruins, it was
repaired in 1597. The beadle preceded all funerals
with a hand-bell-a practice continued in the
eighteenth century.
-In consequence of the advanced age of Messrs.
Pont and Aird, a third minister, hlr. Richard
Dickson, was appointed to the parish in May, 1600,
and in 1606 communion was given on three successive
Sundays. On the 8th of May that year the
venerable Mr. Pont passed from the scene of his
labours,and is supposed to have been interred within
the church. To his memory a stone was erected,
which, when the present edifice was built, was removed
to the Rev. Mr. Williamson’s tomb on the
high ground, in which position it yet remains.
His colleague, Mr. Aircl, survived hini but a few
months, and their succkssors, Messrs. Dickson and
Arthur, became embroiled with the Assembly in
16 I 9 for celebrating communion to the people
seated at a table, preventing them from kneeling,
as superstitious and idolatrous. Mr. Dickson was
ordered “to enter his person in ward within the
Castle of Dumbarton,” and .Mr. Arthur to give
communion to the people on their knees ; but he
and the people declined to “‘comply with a practice
so nearly allied to popery.” Mr. Dickson was
expelled in 1620, but Mr. Arthur was permitted to
remain. Among those who were sitters in the
church at this time were Williani Napier, of the
Wrytes house, and his more illustrious kinsman,
John Napier, of Merchiston, the inventor of logarithms,
whose “dasks,” or seats, seem to have
been close together.
The old church, like that of Duddingstone, was
furnished with iron jougs, in which it appears that
Margaret Dalgleish was compelled to figure on the
23rd of April, 1612, for her scandalous behaviour;
and in 1622, John Reid, “poltriman,” was publicly
rebuked in church for plucking “geiss upon the
Lord his Sabbath, in tyme of sermon.”
We are told in the “ History of the West Church,”
that “ in 1622 it was deemed proper to have a bell
hung in the stekple, if the old ruinous fabric which
stood between the old and new kirks might be so
called,” for a new church had been added at the
close of the sixteenth century. In 1618 new communion
cups of silver were procured. “They were
then of a very peculiar shape, being six inches in
height, gilt, and beautifully chased; but the cup
itself, which was plated, was only two inches
deep and twenty-four in circumference, not unlike
a small soupplate affixed to the stalk of a candlestick.
On the bottom was engraved the following
sentence :-I wiz fa& flse COVJ of saZvafimnc and caZ
@one fhe name of fh b ~ d I I 6 PsZm. I 6 I 9 ; and
around the rim of the cup these words :-Fw fire
Vmf Kirk ovfvith EdinhrgAe.”
The year 1650 saw the church again imperilled
by war. Its records bear, on the 28th July in that
year, that “ No sessione was keiped in the monthe
of August, because there lay ane companie at the
church,” the seats of which had been destroyed
and the sessioners dispersed, partly by the army
of Cromwell, which lay on the south side of the
parish, and that of the Scots, which lay on the
north; and on the 13th of that month, after
Cromwell’s retreat to Dunbar, the commission of ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [West Church. the 27th October, 1592, by ‘(the hail1 elderes, deacones, and honest men ...

Vol. 3  p. 132 (Rel. 0.39)

Leith Wynd.] TRINITY COLLEGE. 303
near its site stands one of the fine and spacious
school houses erected for the School Board.
At the foot of Leith Wynd, on the west side,
there was founded on the 5th of March, 1462, by
royal charter, the collegiate church of the Holy
Trinity, by Mary, Queen of Scotland, daughter of
Arnold Duke of Gueldres, grand-daughter of John
Duke of Burgundy, and widow of James II., slain
about two years before by the bursting of a cannon
at Roxburgh. Her great firniness on that disastrous
occasion, and during the few remaining
years of her own life, proves her to have been a
princess of no ordinary
strength of
mind. She took
an active part in
goyerning the stormy
kingdom of her son,
and died in 1463.
Her early death may
account for the nave
never being built,
though it was not
unusual for devout
persons in that age
of church buliding,
to erect as much
as they could finish,
and leave to the
devotion of posterity
the completion of
the rest. Pitscottie
tells us that she OLD COLLEGIATE SEALS,
his office shall be adjudged vacant, and the same
shall, by the Provost and Chapter, with consent of
the Ordinary, be conferred upon another. If any
of the said prebendaries shall keep a $ye-maker,
and shall not dismiss her, after being therein admonished
thereto by the Provost, his prebend shall
be adjudged vacant, and conferred on another, by
consent of the Ordinary as aforesaid.
“ The Provost of the said college, whenever the
office of provostry shall become vacant, shall by
us and our successors, Kings of Scotland, be presented
to the Ordinary; and the vicars belonging
to the out-churches
aforesaid shall be
presented by the
Provost and Chapter
of the said college
to the Ordinary,
fromwhomtheyshall
receive canonical institution;
and no
prebendary shall be
instituted unless he
can read and sing
plainly, count and
discount, and that
the boys may be
found docile in the
premises. And we
further appoint and
ordain, that whenever
any of the said
‘RINITY COLLEGE CHURCH. prebendwies shall
“was buried in the
Trinitie College, quhilk she built hirself.” Her
grave was violated at the Reformation.
The church was dedicated “to the Holy Trinity,
to the ever blessed and glorious Virgin Mary, to
3t. Ninian the Confessor, and to all the saints and
elect people of God.” The foundation was for a
provost, eight prebendaries, and two clerks, and
with much minuteness several ecclesiastical benefices
and portions of land were assigned for the
support of the several offices ; and in the charter
there are some provisions of a peculiar character,
in Scotland at least, and curiously illustrative of
the age and its manners :-
“Aud we appoint that none of the said preben-
,daries or clerks absent themselves from their offices
without the leave of the Provost, to whom it shall
not be lawful to allow any of them above the space
of fifteen days at a time, unless it be on extraordiaary
occasions, and then not without consent of
the chapter ; and whosoever of the said prebendaries
or clerks shall act contrary to this ordinance,
iead mass,‘ he shall,
after the same, in his sacerdotal habits, repair to
the tomb of the foundress with hyssop, and there
read the prayer Dep-ofmdis, together with that of
the faithful, and exhortation to excite the people to
devotion.’’ .
Thechoir of this church from the apse to the
west enclosure of the rood tower was go feet long,
and 70 feet from transept to transept window ; the
north aisle was 12 feet broad, and the south g feet.
It is a tradition in masonry that the north aisles of
all Catholic churches were wider than the south,
to commemorate the alleged circumstance of the
Saviour‘s head, on the cross, falling on his right
shoulder. In digging the foundation of the Scott
monument, an old quarry 40 feet deep was discovered,
and from it the stones from which the
church was built were taken. With the exception
of Holyrood, it was the finest example of decorated
English Gothic architecture in the city, with many
of the peculiarities of the age to which it belonged.
Various armorial bearings adorned different parts
... Wynd.] TRINITY COLLEGE. 303 near its site stands one of the fine and spacious school houses erected for the ...

Vol. 2  p. 303 (Rel. 0.39)

338 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Roxburgh Place.
sion, belonging to the Lords Ross and to the age
of stately ceremony and stately manners, occupied
till the middle of the eighteenth century the site
occupied the same apartment as that in which
resided, till the year before his death, in 1785,
Alexander Kunciman, one of the most eminent
Scottish artists of his day, and where, no doubt, he
must have entertained the poet Robert Fergusson,
‘‘ while with ominous fitness he sat as his model
for the Prodigal Son.”
Nicolson Street church, erected in 1819-20, at
a cwt of x6,000, has a handsome Gothic front,
with two turreted pinnacles ninety feet in height.
It is built upon the site of the old Antiburgher
Meeting-house, and is notable for the ministry of
Dr. John Jamieson, author of several theological
works, and of the well-known “ Etymological Dictionary
of the Scottish Language.” It was among
the first efforts at an improved style of church
architecture in Edinburgh, where, as elsewhere in
Scotland after the Keformation, the accommodation
of the different congregations in the homeliest
manner was all that was deemed necessary.
The pond sam parish called Lady Glenorchy’s
lies eastward of Nicolson Street, and therein quite
a cluster of little churches has been erected. The
parish church was built as a relief chapel in 1809,
by the Rev. Mr. Johnstone, and altered in 1814,
when it was seated for 990 persons. The Independent
congregation in Richmond Couk was
established in 1833 ; but their place of worship till
1840 was built about 1795 by the Baptists. The
Hebrew congregation was established in 1817, but
has never exceeded IOO souls. The Episcopal
congregation of St. Peter‘s, Roxburgh Place, was
established in 1791, and its place of worship consisted
of the first and second flats of a five-storeyed
tenement, and was originally built, at the sole
expense of the clergyman, for about 420 persons.
To Roxburgh Place came, in 1859, the congregation
of Lady Glenorchy’s church, which had been
demolished by the operations of the North British
Railway. The Court of Session having found that
city. In those days the mansion, which was a
square block with wings, was approached by an
avenue through a plantation upwards of sixty yards
ROSS
this body must be kept in full communion with
the Established Church, authorised the purchase of
Roxburgh Place chapel in lieu of the old place of
worship, and trustees were appointed to conduct
their affairs.
The chapel handed over to them was that of
the Relief Communion just mentioned. Externally
it has no architectural pretensions ; but many may
remember it as the meeting-place of the “Convocation
” which preceded the ever-memorable
secession in 1843, after which it remained closed
and uncared for till it came into the hands of the
Glenorchy trustees in 1859, in so dilapidated a condition
that their first duty was to repair it before
the congregation could use it.
The remains of the pious Lady Glenorchy, which
had been removed from the old church near the
North Bridge, were placed, in 1844, in the vaults
of St. John’s church ; but the trustees, wishing to
comply as far as was in their power with the
wishes of the foundress, that her remains should
rest in her own church, had a suitable vault built
in that at Roxburgh Place. It was paved and
covered with stone, set in Roman cement, and
formed on the right side of the pulpit.
Therein her body was laid on the evening of
Saturday, 31st December, 1859. The marble
tablet, which was carefully removed from the old
church, was placed over her grave, with an additional
inscription explaining the circumstance which
occasioned her new place of interment.
The portion of St. Cuthbert’s garish which was
disjoined and attached to Lady Glenorchy’s is
bounded by Nicolson Street and the Pleasance on
the west and east, by Drummond Street on the
north, and Richmond Street on the south, with an
average population of about 7,000 souls.
Roxburgh Terrace is built on what was anciently
called Thomson’s Park; and the place itself was
named the Back Row in the city plan of 1787.
CHAPTER XL.
GEORGE SQUARE AND THE VICINITY
How-The last Lord Ross-Earlier Residents in the Square-House of Walter Scott, W.S.-Sir Waltcr’s Boyhood-Bickas-Grcen
Breeks-The Edinburgh Light Horse-The Scots Brigad+Admiral Duncan--Lord Advocate Dundas-The Grants of Kilgrastonhmn
Dunda+Sedan Chak--Campbells of Snccoth-Music Class Room-The Eight Southern DistrictAhapel of Ease-Windmill
Street-Euccleuch Place-Jeffrey’s First House there-The Burgh Loch-Society of Impraven-The Meadow. ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Roxburgh Place. sion, belonging to the Lords Ross and to the age of stately ceremony ...

Vol. 4  p. 338 (Rel. 0.39)

Greyfriars Church.] TOMBS.
TOMBS IN GREYFRIARS CHURCHYARD.
1. The hlartyrs' Monument : o Monument of Sir G. McKenzie commonly called '' Blocd McKenzie " 16gz; 3, Wilhm CarJtarrs Rdomer,
and Principal of the Uhiversity of Edinburgh, 17x5 ; 4, Ebtranrx to the South Gmu$ known 85 ihq Covenant4 Rim ; 5, J&nhYhG
Keeper of the Signet, 1614 ; 4 C M y ol DaLy, 1633 ; 7, William Adam, Archirat, 1748, and W b h h n , D.D., 1793. ... Church.] TOMBS. TOMBS IN GREYFRIARS CHURCHYARD. 1. The hlartyrs' Monument : o Monument of Sir G. ...

Vol. 4  p. 381 (Rel. 0.38)

Greyfrian Church.] THE COVENANT. 375
and Lord Scrope represented their respective
monarchs.
The number of the inhabitants having greatly
increased, and the churches of the city being insufficient
for their accommodation, the magistrates,
in 1612, says Ariiot, ordered a new one to be
built on the ground formerly belonging to the Greyfriars,
and bestowed on them by Queen Mary for
a public cemetery; but he makes no mention of
any preceding church, on which the present edifice
might have been engrafted.
The eastern entrance from the Candlemaker
Row was formed at some time subsequent to the
erection or opening of this church.
On the 28th of February 1638, the National
Covenant was first subscribed at the Greyfriars
Church, when the aggressive measures of Charles I.
roused in arms the whole of Scotland, which then,
happily for herself, was not, by the desertion of her
nobles and the abolition of her officers of state, unable
to resist lawless encroachment ; and her sons
seemed to come forth as one man in defence of
the Church, which had then no more vigorous u p
holder than the future Marquis of Montrose. ‘‘ In
the old church of the Greyfriars,” to quote his
memoirs (London, 1858), ‘‘ which stands upon an
eminence south of the ancient capital, and within
the wall of 1513, amid quaint and smoke-encrusted
tombs, and many headstones sunk deep in the long,
rank grass-where now the furious Covenanter,
Henderson, and Rosehaugh, ‘ that persecutor of
the saints of God,’ as the Whigs named him, are
lying side by side in peace among the dead of ages,
the Covenant, written on a sheet of parchment one
ell square, and so named because it resembled
those which God is said to have made with the
children of Israel, was laid before the representatives
of the nation, and there it was signed by a
mighty concourse, who, with uplifted hands, with
weeping eyes, and drawn swords, animated by the
same glorious enthusiasm which fired the crusaders
at the voice of Peter the Hermit, vowed, with the
assistance of the supreme God, to dedicate life and
fortune to the cause of Scotland’s Church and the
maintenance of their solemn engagement, which
professed the reformed faith and bitterly abjured
the doctrines and dogmas of the Church of Rome
-for with such they classed the canons and the
liturgy of Laud.”
It was first subscribed by the congregation of the
Greyfriars ; but the first name really appended to it
was that of the venerable and irreproachable Earl
of Sutherland. Montrose and other peers followed
his example, and it afterwards was sent round the
churches of the city; thus it speedily became sa
xowded with names on both sides, says Maithd,
:hat not the smallest space was left for more,
It appears that when there was so little,room
;eft to sign on, the subscriptions were shortened by
inserting only the initials of the Covenanters’ names,
3f which the margins and other parts were so full
that it was a difficult task to number them. By a
cursoryview Maitland estimated themat about 5,000.
By order of the General Committee every fourth
man in Scotland was numbered as a soldier.
In 1650 the church was desecrated, and all its
wood-work wasted and destroyed by the soldiers
of Cromwell. Nine years afterwards, when Monk
was in Edinburgh with his own regiment (now
the Coldstream Guards) and Colonel Morgan’s, ‘
on the 19th of October, he mustered them in the
High Street, in all the bravery of their steeplecrowned
hats, falling bands, calfskin boots, with
niatchlocks and bandoleers, some time prior to his
march southward to achieve the Restoration, From
that street he marched them (doubtless by theRest
Bow) to the Greyfriars Church, where he told his
officers that he “ was resolved to make the military
power subordinate to the civil, and that since they
had protection and entertainment from the Parliament,
it was their duty to serve it and obey it
against all opposition.” The officers and soldiers
unanimously declared that they would live and die
with him.
In the year 1679 the Greyfriars Church and its
burying-ground witnessed a pitiful sight, when that
city of the dead was crowded, almost to excess, by
those unhappy Covenanters whom the prisons could
not contain, after the rising at Bothwell had been
quenched in blood. These unhappy people had
been collected, principally in the vicinity of Bathgate,
by the cavalry, then employed in “ dragooning,”
or riding down the country, and after being
driven like herds of cattle, to the number of 1,200,
tied two and two, to the capital, they were penned
up in the Greyfriars Churchyard, among the graves
and gloomy old tombs of all kinds, and there they
were watched and guarded day and night, openly in
sight of the citizens.
Since Heselrig destroyed the Scottish prisoners
after Dunbar (for which he was arraigned by the
House of Commons) no such piteous sight had
been witnessed on British ground. They were of
both sexes and of all ages, and there they lay five
long months, 1,200 souls, exposed to the suq by
day and the dew by night-the rain, the wind, and
the storm-with no other roof than the changing
sky, and no other bed than the rank grass that
grew in its hideous luxuriance from the graves beneath
them. All were brutally treatedby their ... Church.] THE COVENANT. 375 and Lord Scrope represented their respective monarchs. The number of the ...

Vol. 4  p. 375 (Rel. 0.38)

132 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Restalrig.
oxen, and other things belonging to a field, by the
hands of him, namely, who is called Hood of Leith,
from me and my heirs for ever, as freely, quietly,
and honourably free from all service and secular
exactions as any other gifts more freely and quietly
given, are possessed in the Kingdom of Scotland.
And that this gift may continue, I have set my
seal to this writing.”
Among those who witnessed this document were
the Lord Chancellor of Scotland, Hugh de Sigillo,
In May, 1398, Sir Robert Logan of Restalrig
granted to the citizens of Edinburgh, by charter,
full liberty to carry away earth and gravel, lying
upon the bank of the river, to enlarge their port of
Leith, to place a bridge over the said river, to
moor ships in any part of his lands, without the
said port, with the right of road and passage,
through all his lands of Restalrig. “All which
grants and concessions be warranted absolutely,
under penalty of A200 sterling to be uptaken
RESTALRIG CHURCH, 1817. (A / t e r m Etckirrg8y3amcr Skene of Rdislaw.)
Bishop of Dunkeld (called the “Poor Man’s
Bishop lJ) ; Walter, Abbot of Holyrood, previously
Prior of Inchcolm, who died in 1217 ; W. de
Edinham, Archdeacon of Dunkeld ; Master R. de
Raplaw ; and Robert Hood, of Leith.
In 1366, under David II., Robert Multerer
(Moutray?) received a charter of lands, within the
barony of Restalrig, before pertaining to John Colti ;
and some three years afterwards, John of Lestalrick
(sic) holds a charter of the mill of Instrother, in
Fifeshire, granted by King David at Perth.
Towards the latter part of the fourteenth century
the barony had passed into the possession of the
Logans, a powerful family, whose name is insepsrably
mingled with the history of Leith.
by the said burgesses and community in the name
of damages and expenses, and LIOO sterling to
the fabric of the church of St. Andrews before
the commencement of any plea.” (Burgh Charters.)
In 1413-4 another of his charters grants to the
city, “that the’piece of ground in Leith between
the gate of John Petindrich and a wall newly built
on the shore of the water of Leith, should be free
to the said community for placing their goods and
merchandise thereon, and carrying the same to and
from the sea, in all time coming.”
Westward of the village church, and on the
summit of a rock overhanging Loch End, are the
massive walls of the fortalice in which the barons of
Restalrig resided ; but a modem house is engrafted ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Restalrig. oxen, and other things belonging to a field, by the hands of him, namely, ...

Vol. 5  p. 132 (Rel. 0.38)

Pottobello.] CHURCHES AND CHAPELS. I47
burgh, Portobello returns one member to the
House of Commons.
The Established parish church was built in
1810 as a chapel of ease, at the cost of only
A2,650, but was enlarged in 1815. The Relief
Chapel, belonging to a congregation formed in
1834, was built in 1825, and purchased in the
former-named year by the minister, the Rev. David
Crawford. St. John’s Catholic chapel (once Episcopal)
in Brighton Place, was originally in 1826 a
school is situated in the Niddry Road, about
half a mile from the centre of the town, and was
erected in 1875-6 at the cost of L7,ooo. It is a
handsome edifice in the collegiate style for the
accommodation of about 600 scholars.
In form Portobello is partially compact or continuous.
Its entire length is traversed by the High
.Street (or line of the old Musselburgh Road), is
called at its north-west end and for the remaining
part Abercorn Street; and what-were the town an
PLAN OF PORTOBELLO.
villa, purchased in 1834 by the Bishop of Edinburgh
for A600. The United Secession chapel is of
recent erection, and belongs to a congregation
formed in 1834. The Independent chapel was
built in 1835, and belongs to the congregation
which erected it. St. Mark’s Episcopal chapel is
private property, and used to be rented at A40
yearly by the congregation, which was established
in 1825. It was consecrated by Bishop Sandford
in 1828. Another church, with a fine spire, has
recently been erected in the High Street, for
a congregation of United Presbyterians. A Free
church stands at the east end of the main street.
It was erected in 1876-7, and is a handsome
Gothic edifice with a massive tower. A public
old one and a marketing community-would be
the Cross, is a point at which the main thoroughfare
is divided into two parts, and where Bathgate
goes off to the sea, and Brighton Place towards
Duddingston.
The suite of hot and cold salt-water baths was
erected in 1806 at the cost of A4,000, and overlooks
the beach, between the foot of Bath Street
and that of Regent Street.
Much enlargement of the town eastward of the
railway station, and even past Joppa, to comprise
a crescent, terraces, and lines of villas, was planned
in the spring of 1876, and a projection of the new
Marine Parade, which is 26 feet wide, was planned
300 yards eastward about the same time. At right ... CHURCHES AND CHAPELS. I47 burgh, Portobello returns one member to the House of Commons. The ...

Vol. 5  p. 147 (Rel. 0.38)

46 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. IHolyrood
these ecclesiastical foundations :-The Priory of St.
Mary’s Isle, in Galloway, gifted by Fergus, Lord of
Galloway, who died a monk of Holyrood in 1161 ;
the Priory of Blantyre, secluded on a rock above
the Clyde ; Kowadill, in Hemes, gifted by Mac-
Leod of Herries ; Oransay and Colonsay-in the
former still stands their priory, built by a Lord of
the Isles, one of the finest relics of religious antiquity
in the Hebrides; the church of Melgynch,
granted to them by Matthew, Abbot of Dunkeld,
in 1289; the church of Dalgarnock, granted to
them by John, Bishop of Glasgow, in 1322 j and
the church and vicarage of Kirkcudbright, by
of Haddington, mm ferra de Clerkynton, per rectas
divisas. In 1177 the monastery was still in the
Castle of Edinburgh. In 1180 Alexius, a subdeacon,
held a council of the Holy Cross near
Edinburgh, with reference to the long-disputed
consecration of John Scott, Bishop of St. Andrews,
when a double election had taken place.
VI. WILLIAM II., abbot in 1206. During his
time, John Bishop of Candida Casa resigned his
mitre, became a canon .of Holyrood, and was
buried in the chapter-house, where a stone long
marked his grave.
VII. WALTER, Prior of Inchcolm, abbot in
111. WILLIAM I. succeeded in 1152. He witnessed
several charters of Malcolm IV. and
William the Lion; and when he became aged and
infirm, he vowed to God that he would say his
Psalter every day. He enclosed the abbey with a
strong wall.
IV. ROBERT is said to have been abbot about
the time of William the Lion. “ He granted to
the inhabitants of the newly-projected burgh of the
Canongate various privileges, which were confirmed,
with additional benefactions, by David II., Robert
III., and James 111. These kings granted to the
bailies and community the annuities payable by the
burgh, and also the common muir between the ’
lands of Broughton on the west and the lands of
Pilrig on the east, on the north side of the road
from Edinburgh to Leith.”
V. JOHN, abbot in 1173, witnessed a charter of
Richard Bishop of St. Andrews (chaplain to
Malcolm IV.), granting to his canons the church
the chapel of St Mary.
XI, HENRY, the next abbot, was named Bishop
of Galloway in 1253; consecrated in 1255 by the
Archbishop of York,
XII. RADULPH, abbot, is mentioned in a gift of
lands at Pittendreich to the monks of St. Marie de
Newbattle.
XIII. ADAM, a traitor, and adherent of England,
who did homage to Edward I. in 1292, and for
whom he examined the records in the Castle of
Edinburgh. He is called Alexander by Dempster.
XIV. ELIAS 11. is mentioned as abbot at the
time of the Scots Templar Trials in 1309, and in a
deed of William Lamberton, Bishop of St. Andrews,
in 1316. In his time, Holyrood, like Melrose and
Dryburgh, was ravaged by the baffled army of
Edward 11. in 1322.
XV. SYMON OF WEDALE, abbot at the vigil of
St. Barnabas, 1326, when Robert I. held a Parliament
in Holyrood, at which was ratified a concord ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. IHolyrood these ecclesiastical foundations :-The Priory of St. Mary’s Isle, in ...

Vol. 3  p. 46 (Rel. 0.38)

St. Giles’s Church. The whole were contained in
twenty large boxes, and amounted to several tons
in weight. Dr. William Chambers having been exceedingly
anxious to discover, if possible, the
mutilated remains of the Marquis of Montrose,
which had been interred in St Giles’s in 1661,
MONOGRAM OF tiEORGE HERIOC’S NAM k.
‘Made on a Chimwy-piece in lht Xosfitul.)
for this purpose prior to their removal to the Greyfriars.
This examination was most carefully carried
out under the direction of Professors Maclagan and
Turner, of the Edinburgh University, but no trace
of those lost and interesting remains could be discovered. ... Giles’s Church. The whole were contained in twenty large boxes, and amounted to several tons in weight. Dr. ...

Vol. 4  p. 384 (Rel. 0.37)

256 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Cowgate.
Mr. Andrew Anderson, printer to the King’s most
Excellent Majesty, for Mr. Andrew Symson, and
which must unhesitatingly be pronounced to be
superior in elegance to almost any other doors
given to modem houses either in Edinburgh or in
London. On a frieze between the mouldings is a
legend in a style of lettering and orthography which
speaks of the close of the fifteenth century :-
GIF . YE . DEID . AS , YE . SOULD . YE
MYCHT . HAIF . AS ,,YE , VULD,
In modem English, ‘If we died as we should, we
might have as we would.’ There is unfortunately
no trace of the man who built the house and put
upon it this characteristic apophthegm; ,but it is
known that the upper floors were occupied about
(before?) 1700 by the worthy Andro Syrnson, who
having been ousted from his charge as an episcopal
minister at the Revolution, continued to make a
living here by writing and printing books.”
Symson had been curate of Kirkinner,inGalloway,
a presentation to him by the earl of that title, and
was the author of an elaborate work, and mysterious
poem of great length, issued from his printinghouse
at the foot of the Horse Wynd,- entitled,
“Tripatriarchicor; or the lives of the three patriarchs,
Abraham, Isaac, and Jacob, extracted forth of
are to be sold by him in the Cowgate, near the
foot of the Hose Wynd, Anno Dom. 1699.”
The Horse Wynd which once connected the
Cowgate with the open fields on the south of the
city, and was broad enough for carriages in days
before such vehicles were known, is supposed to
have derived its name from an inn which occupied.
the exact site of the Gaelic church which was
erected there in 1815, after the building in the
Castle Wynd was abandoned, and which ranked
as a quoad suoa parish church after 1834, though
it was not annexed to any separate territory. It
was seated for 1,166, and cost ;t;3,000, but was
swept away as being in the line of the present
Chambers Street. ,
COLLEGE WYND. (From a Drawinf 6y Willinffl Channing.) ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Cowgate. Mr. Andrew Anderson, printer to the King’s most Excellent Majesty, for Mr. ...

Vol. 4  p. 256 (Rel. 0.37)

 F e Tolbooth. 124
as the- martlet did in Macbeth’s castle. Of
later years .these booths have degenerated into
mere toy-shops, where the little loiterers chiefly
interested in such wares are tempted to linger, enchanted
by the rich display of hobby-horses, babies,
and Dutch toys, arranged in artful and gay confusion,
yet half scared by the cross looks of the
withered pantaloon by whom these wares are
superintended. But in the times we write of the
hosiers, glovers, hatters, mercers, milliners, and all
of a hearse, it was calculated to impress all beholders
wit!i a sense of what was meant in Scottish law
Situated in the very heart of the ancient city, it
stood at the north-west corner of the parish church
of St. Giles, and so close to it as to leave only a
narrow footway between the projecting buttresses,
while its tall and gloomy mass extended so far
into the High Street, as to leave the thoroughfare
at that part only 14 feet in breadth. “Reuben
Butler,” says Scott, writing ere its demolition had
been decreed, “stood now before the Gothic en-
, by the spudor carccris.”
’
I a collegiate church, and the chapter-house thereof
being of sufficient dimensions, would naturally
lead to the meeting-place of parliaments, though
many were held in Edinburgh long before the
time of James III., especially in the old hall of the
Castle, now degraded into a military hospital.
The first Parliament of James 11. was held in
the latter in 1437 ; in 1438 the second Parliament
was held at Stirling, but in the November of the
same year another in pretonk burgi de Edinburgh,
tnnce of the ancient prison,
which, as is well known to
all men, rears its front in
the very middle of the High
Street, forming, as it were,
the termination to a huge
pile of buildings called the
Luckenbooths, which, for
some inconceivable reason,
our ancestors had jammed
. into the midst of the principzl
stteet of the town,
leaving for passage a narrow
street on the north and on
the south, into which the
. prison opens, a narrow,
cxooked lane, winding betwixt
the high and sombre
walls of the Tolbooth and
the adjacent houses on one
side, and the buttresses and
projections of the old church
upon the other. To give
some gaiety to this sombre
passage (well known by the
name of the Krames), a
number of little booths or
shops, after fhe fashion of
who dealt in the miscellaneous wares now termed
haberdashers’ goods, were to be found in this narrow
alley.”
By the year 156r the Tolbooth, or Preforium
burgi de Edinburgi, as it is named in the early Acts
of the Scottish Parliament, had become ruinous,
and on the 6th of February Queen Mary wrote a
letter to the magistrates, charging the Provost to
take it down at once, and meanwhile to provide
accommodation elsewhere for the Lords of Session.
Since the storm of the Reformation the Scottish
revenues had been greatly impaired ; money
and materials were alike
JOHN DOWIE. (After h-uy.)
cobblers’ stalls, are plastered, as it were, against
the Gothic projections and abutments, so that it
seemed as if the traders had occupied with
nests-bearing about the same proportion to the
building-every buttress and coign of vantage,
scarce ; hence the magistrates
were anxious, if possible,
to preserve the old
building ; accordingly a new
onewas erected, entirelyapart
froin it, adjoining the southwest
corner of St. Giles’s
church, and the eastern portion
of t!ie old Tolbooth
bore incontestable evidence
of being the work of an age
long anterior to the date of
Queen Mary’s letter, and the
line of demarcation between
the east and west ends of the
edifice is still apparent in all
views of it. The more
ancient portion, which had
on its first floor a large and
deeply-embayed square window,
having rich Gothic
niches on each side, is supposed
to have been at one
time the house of the Pravost
of St. Giles’s church, or some
such appendage to the latter,
while the prebends and
other members of the colleges were accommodated
in edifices on the south side of the church, removed
in 1632 to make way for the present Parliament
House. Thus it is supposed to have been built
about 1466, when James 111. erected St. Giles’s into ... F e Tolbooth. 124 as the- martlet did in Macbeth’s castle. Of later years .these booths have degenerated ...

Vol. 1  p. 124 (Rel. 0.36)

130 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Restalrig.
By interdict the directors were compelled to give
access to the well, which they grudgingly did by a
species of drain, till the entire edifice was removed
to where it now stands.
Near the site of the well is the ancient church of
Restalrig, which, curiously enough, at first sight has
all the air of an entirely modern edifice ; but on a
minute inspection old mouldings and carvings of
great antiquity make their appearance in conjunction
with the modern stonework of its restoration.
It is a simple quadrangular building, without aisles
or transept.
The choir, which is the only part of the building
that has escaped the rough hands
of the iconoclasts of the sixteenth
century, is a comparatively small,
though handsome, specimen of
Decorated English Gothic ; and
it remained an open ruin until
a fev years since, when it was
restored in a manner as a chapel
of ease for the neighbouring district.
But a church existed here long
before the present one, and it
was celebrated all over Scotland
for the tomb of St. Triduana,
who died at Restalrig, and whose
shrine was famous as the resort
of pilgrims, particularly those
who were affected by diseased
eyesight. Thus, to this day, she
is frequently painted as carrying
her own eyes on a salver or the
point of a sword. A noble virgin
of Achaia, she is said to have
come to Scotland, in the fourth
century, with St. Rule. Her name
inferred that the well afterwards called St. Margaret’s
was the well of St. Triduana.
Curiously enough, Lestalric, the ancient name of
Restalrig, is that by which it is known in the present
day; and still one of the roads leading to it from
Leith is named the Lochsterrock Road
The existence of a church andparish here, long
prior to the death of King Alexander 111. is proved
by various charters ; and in 1291, Adam of St.
Edmunds, prior of Lestalric, obtained a writ, addressed
to the sheriff of Edinburgh, to put him
in possession of his lands and rights. The same
ecclesiastic, under pressure, like many others at
SEAL OF THE COLLEGIATE cnmcn
OF RESTALRIG.
is unknown in the Roman Breviary; but a recent
writer says, ‘‘ S t Triduana, with two companions,
devoted themselves to a recluse life at Roscoby, but
a Pictish chief, named Nectan, having been attracted
by her beauty, she fled into Athole to
escape him. As his emissaries followed her there,
and she discovered that it was her eyes which had
entranced him, she plucked them out, and, fixing
them on a thorn, sent them to her admirer. In
consequence of this practical method of satisfying
a lover, St. Triduana, who came to Restalrig to
live, became famous, and her shrine was for many
generations the resort of pilgrims whose eyesight
was defective, miraculous cures being effected by
the waters of the well.”
Sir David Lindsay writes of their going to “ St.
Trid well to mend their ene;” thus it has been
the time, swore fealty to Edward
I. of England in 1296.
Henry de Leith, rector of Restalrig,
appeared as a witness
against the Scottish Knights of
the Temple, at the trial in Holyrood
in 1309. The vicar, John
Pettit, is mentioned in the charter
of confirmation by James III.,
under his great seal of donations
to the Blackfriars of Edinburgh
in 1473..
A collegiate establishment of
considerable note, having a dean,
with nine prebends and two singing
boys, was constituted at Restalrig
by James III., and completed
by James V. j but it seems
not to have interfered with the
parsonage, which remained entire
till the Reformation.
The portion of the choir now
remaining does not date, it is
supposed, earlier than from the
fourteenth century, and is much
plainer, says Wilson, than might be expected in
a church enriched by the contributions of three
pious monarchs in succession, and resorted to by
so many devout pilgrims as to excite the special
indignation of one of the earliest assemblies of the
Kirk, apparently on account of its abounding with
statues and images.
By the Assembly of 1560 it was ordered to be
“ raysit and utterly casten doun,” as a monument
of idolatry; and this order was to some extent
obeyed, and the ‘‘ aisler stanis ” were taken by
Alexander Clark to erect a house with, but were
used by the Reformers to build a new Nether Bow
Port. The parishioners of Restalrig were ordered
in future to adopt as their parish church that of
St. Mary’s, in Leith, which continues to the present
day to be South Leith church. ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Restalrig. By interdict the directors were compelled to give access to the well, ...

Vol. 5  p. 130 (Rel. 0.36)

lies directly at the south-eastern base of Arthur's
Seat, and has long'been one of the daily postal
districts of the city.
Overhung by the green slopes and grey rocks ok
Arthur's Seat, and shut out by its mountainous
mass from every view of the crowded city at its
further base in Duddingston, says a statist, writing
in 1851, a spectator feels himself sequestered from
the busy scenes which he knows to' be in his
immediate vicinity, as he hears their distant hum
upon the passing breezes by the Willow Brae on
the east, or the gorge of the Windy Goule on the
south; and he looks southward and west over a
glorious panorama of beautiful villas, towering ,
'
From the style of the church and the structure of
its arches, it is supposed to date from the epoch of
the introduction of Saxon architecture. A semicircular
arch of great beauty divides the choir from
the chancel, and a Saxon doorway, with fantastic
heads and zig-zag mbuldings, still remains in the
southern face of the tower. The entrance-gate to
its deep, grassy, and sequestered little buryingground,
is still furnished with the antique chain and
collar of durance, the terror of evildoers, named
the jougs, and a time-worn Zouping-on-stone, for the
use of old or obese horsemen.
Some interesting tombs are to be found in the
burying-ground ; among these are the marble obelisk
castles, rich coppice,
hill and valley, magnificent
in semi-tint, in
light and shadow, till
the Pentlands, or the
1 on e 1 y Lam m er m u i r
ranges, close the distance.
The name of this
hamlet and parish has
been a vexed subject
amongst antiquaries,
but as a surname it is
not unknown in Scotland
: thus, among the
missing charters of
Robert Bruce, there is
one to John Dudingstoun
of the lands of
Pitcorthie, in Fife; and
among the gentlemen
GATEWAY OF DUDDINGSTON CHURCH, SHOWING TIIE
JOUCS AND LOUPING-ON-STONE.
slain at Flodden in I 5 I 3
there was Stephen Duddingston of Kildinington,
also in Fife. Besides, there is another place of the
same name in Linlithgowshire, the patrimony of the
Dundases.
The ancient church, with a square tower at its
western end, occupies a green and rocky peninsula
that juts into the clear and calm blue loch. It is
an edifice of great antiquity, and belonged of old
to the Tyronensian Monks of Kelso, who possessed
it, together with the lands of Eastern and Western
Duddingston ; the chartulary of that abbey does not
say from whom they acquired these possessions, but
most probably it was from David I.
Herbert, first abbot of Kelso, a man of great
learning and talent, chamberiain of the kingdom
under Alexander I. and David I., in 1128, granted
the lands of Eastern and Western Duddingston to
Reginald de Bosco for an annual rent of ten marks,
to be paid by him and his heirs for ever.
erected to the memory
of Patrick Haldane of
Gleneagles by his unfortunate
grandson, whose
fate is also recorded
thereon; and that of
James Browne, LLD.,
Advocate, the historian
of the Highlands and
Highland clans, in the
tower of the church.
In the register of
assignations for the
minister's stipends in
the year 1574, presented
in MS. by
Bishop Keith to the
Advocates' Library,
Duddingston is said to
have been a joint dependence
with the
Castle of Edinburgh
upon the Abbey of Holyrood. The old records
of the Kirk Session are only of the year 1631, and
in the preceding year the lands of Prestonfield
were disjoined from the kirk and parish of St.
Cuthbert, and annexed to those of Duddingston.
On the r8th'of May, 1631, an aisle was added
to the church for the use of the Laird of Prestonfield,
his tenants and servants.
David Malcolme, minister here before I 741,
was an eminent linguist in his time, whose writings
were commended by Pinkerton, and quoted with
respect by Gebelin in his Monde Plillit$ and
Bullet in his Mkmoirrs Celtiques; but the church is
chiefly famous for the incumbency of the Rev. John
Thomson, a highly distinguished landscape painter,
who from his early boyhood exhibited a strong
predilection for art, and after being a pupil of
Alexander Nasmyth, became an honorary member
of the Royal Scottish Academy. He became ... directly at the south-eastern base of Arthur's Seat, and has long'been one of the daily postal districts of ...

Vol. 4  p. 314 (Rel. 0.36)

I44 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [George Street. --
already been made in the account of that institution,
of which he was the distinguished head.
Opposite is a new building occupied as shops and
chambers ; and the vast Elizabethan edifice near it
is the auction rooms of Dowel1 and Co., built
in 1880.
The Mercaitile Bank of India, London, and
China occupies No. 128, formerly the mansion of
Sir James Hall of Dunglass, Bart., a man in his
time eminent for his high attainments in geological
and chemical science, and author of popular but
peculiar works on Gothic architecture. By his
wife, Lady Helena Douglas, daughter of Ddnbar,
Earl of Selkirk, he had three sons and three
daughters-his second son being the well-known
Captain Basil Hall, R.N. While retaining his
house in George Street, Sir James, between 1808
and 1812, represented the Cornish borough of St.
Michael’s in Parliament. He died at Edinburgh,
after a long illness, on the z3rd of June, 1832.
Collaterally with him, another distiiiguished
baronet, Sir John Sinclair of Ulbster, was long the
occupant of No. 133, to the print of whom Kay
appends the simple title of “The Scottish Patriot,”
and never was it more appropriately applied. To
attempt even an outline of his long, active, and
most useful life, would go far beyond our limits ;
suffice it to say, that his “ Code of Agriculture”
alone has been translated into nearlyevery European
language. He was born at Thurso in 1754, and so
active had been his mind, so vast the number of
his scientific pursuits and objects, that by 1797 he
began to suffer seriously from the effects of his
over-exertions, and being thus led to consider the
subject of health generally, he published, in 1803,
a quarto pamphlet, entitled “ Hints on Longevity”
-afterwards, in 1807, extended to four volumes
8vo. In 1810 he was made a Privy Councillor,
and in the following year, under the administration
of the unfortunate Mr. Perceval, was appointed
Cashier of Excise for Scotland. On retiring from
Parliament, he was succeeded as member for
Caithness by his son. He resided in Edinburgh
for the last twenty years of his life, and died at
his house in George Street in December, 1835, jn
his eighty-first year, and was interred in the Chapel
Royal at Holyrood.
By his first wife he
had two children j by tbe second, Diana, daughter
of Lord Macdonald, he had thirteen, one of whom,
Julia, became Countess of Glasgow. All these
attained a stature like his own, so great-being
nearly all above six feet-that he was wont playfully
to designate the pavement before No. 133 as
‘‘ The Giants’ Causeway.”
Sir. John was twice married.
St. Andrew’s church stands zoo feet westward
if St. Andrew’s Square; it is a plain building of
ival form, with a handsome portico, having four
;reat Corinthiafi pillars, and built, says Kincaid,
iom a design of Major Fraser, of the Engineers,
whose residence was close by it. It was erected
.n 178s.
It was at first proposed to have a spire of some
iesign, now unknown, between the portico and thc
body of the church, and for a model of this a
young man of the city, named M‘Leish, received a
premium of sixty guineas from the magistrates, with
the freedom of the city j but on consideration, his
design “ was too great in proportion to the space left
for its base.” So the present spire, which is 168 feet
in height, and for its sky-line is one of the most
beautiful in the city, was designed by Major
Andrew Fraser, who declined to accept any
premium, suggesting that it should be awarded to
Mr. Robert Kay, whose designs for a square
church on the spot were most meritorious.
The last stone of the spire was placed thereon
on the 23rd of November, 1787. A chime of bells
was placed in it, 3rd June, 1789, “to be rung in
the English manner.”
The dimensions of this church, as given by
Kincaid, are, within the walls from east to west
eighty-seven feet, and from north to south sixtyfour
feet. “The front, consisting of a staircase
and portico, measures forty-one feet, and projects
twenty-six and a half feet.” The entrance is nine
feet in height by seven feet in breadth.
This parish was separated from St. Cuthbert’s in
1785, and since that date parts of it have been
assigned to other parishes of more recent erection
as the population increased.
The church cost A7,000, and is seated for about
1,053. The charge was collegiate, and is chiefly
remarkable for the General Assembly’s meeting in
1843, at which occurred the great Disruption, or
exodus of the Free Church-one of the most
important events in the modern history of Scotland
or of the United Kingdom.
It originated in a zealous movement of the
Presbyterian Church, mainly promoted by the great
Chalmers, to put an end to the connection between
Church and State. In 1834 the Church had passed
a law of its own, ordaining that thenceforth no
presentee to a parish should be admitted if opposed
by the majority of the male communicants-a law
which struck at the system of patronage restored
after the Union-a system involving importint1
civil rights.
When the Annual Assembly met in St. Andreds
Church, in May, 1843, it was generally understood ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [George Street. -- already been made in the account of that institution, of which he ...

Vol. 3  p. 144 (Rel. 0.35)

THE TOWER 327 Liberton.]
between 1124 and 1153, according to the Lih
Cartarvm Sanchz Crwis.
Macbeth of Liberton also granted to St. Cuth
bert’s Church the tithes and oblations of Legbor
nard, a church which cannot now be traced.
The name is supposed to be a corruption o
Lepertoun, as there stood here a hospital fo
lepers, of which all vestiges have disappeared ; bu
the lands thereof in some old writs (according tc
the “New Statistical Account”) were called “Spital
town.”
At Nether Liberton, three-quarters of a mile nortl
of the church, was a mill, worked of course by thc
Braid Burn, which David I, bestowed upon tht
monks of Holyrood, as a tithe thereof, ‘‘wit1
thirty cartloads from the bush of Liberton,” gift!
confirmed by William the Lion under the Grea
Seal circa I I 7 1-7.
The Black Friars at Edinburgh received fivc
pounds sterling annually from this mill at Nethei
Liberton, by a charter from King Robert I.
Prior to the date of King David’s charter, thc
church of Liberton belonged to St. Cuthbert’s
The patronage of it, with an acre of land adjoining
it, was bestowed by Sir John Maxwell of that iik
in 1367, on the monastery of Kilwinning,pro sahh
aniiiim SUE et Agnetis sponsiz SUE.
This gift was confirmed by King David 11.
By David 11. the lands of Over Liberton,
‘( quhilk Allan Baroune resigned,” were gifted tc
John Wigham ; and by the same monarch the land:
of Nether Liberton were gifted to William Ramsay,
of Dalhousie, knight, and Agnes, his spouse, 24th
October, 1369. At a later period he granted a
charter “to David Libbertoun, of the office of
sergandrie of the overward of the Constabularie of
Edinburgh, with the lands of Over Libbertoun
pertaining thereto.” (“ Robertson’s Index.”)
Adam Forrester (ancestor of the Corstorphine
family) was Laird of Nether Liberton in 1387, for
estates changed proprietors quickly in those troublesome
times, and we have already reterred to him
as one of those who, with the Provost Andrew
Yichtson, made arrangements for certain extensive
additions to the church of St. Giles in that year.
William of Liberton was provost of the city in
1429, and ten years subsequently with William
Douglas of Hawthornden, Meclielson of Herdmanston
(now Harviston), and others, he witnessed
the charter of Patrick, abbot of Holyrood, to Sir
Yatrick Logan, Lord. of Restalrig, of the office of
bailie of St. Leonard’s. (“ Burgh Charters,” No.
At Liberton there was standing till about 1840
a tall peel-house or tower, which was believed to
XXVI.)
have been the residence of Macbeth and other
barons of Liberton, and which must not be confounded
with the solitary square tower that stands
to the westward of the road that leads into the
heart of the Braid Hills, and is traditionally said to
have been the abode of a troublesome robber
laud, who waylaid provisions coming to the city
markets.
The former had an old dial-stone, inscribed
‘‘ God’s Providence is our Inheritance.”
Near the present Liberton Tower the remains
of a Celtic cross were found embedded in a wall in
1863, by the late James Drummond, R.S.A. It
was covered with knot-work.
The old church-or chapel it was more probably
-at Kirk-Liberton, is supposed to have been dedicated
to the Virgin Mary-there having been a
holy spring near it, called our Lady’s Well-and
it had attached to it a glebe of two oxgates of
land.
In the vicinity was a place called Kilmartin,
which seemed to indicate the site of some ancient
and now forgotten chapel.
In.1240 the chapelry of Liberton was disjoined by
David Benham, Bishop of St. Andrews and Great
Chamberlain to the King, from the parish of St.
Cuthbert’s, and constituted a rectory belonging to
the Abbey of Holyrood, and from then till the
Reformation it was served by a vicar.
For a brief period subsequent to 1633, it was a
prebend of the short-lived and most inglorious
bishopric of Edinburgh ; and at the final abolition
thereof it reverted to the disposal of the Crown.
The parochial registers date from 1639.
When the old church was demolished prior to
:he erection of the new, in 1815, there was found
very mysteriously embedded in its basement an
ron medal of the thirteenth century, inscribed in
xncient Russian characters “ THE GRAND PRINCE
3 ~ . ALEXANDER YAROSLAVITCH NEVSKOI.”
The old church is said to have been a picuresque
edifice not unlike that now at Corstor-
Ihine ; the new one is a tolerably handsome semi-
Gothic structure, designed by Gillespie Graham,
,eated for 1,430 persons, and having a square
ower with four ornamental pinnacles, forming a
)leasing and prominent object in the landscape
outhward of the city.
Subordinate to the church there were in Catholic
imes three chapels-one built by James V. at
3rigend’ already referred to ; a second at Niddrie,
ounded by Robert Wauchope of Niddrie, in 1389,
.nd dedicated to “ Our .Lady,” but which is now
inly commemorated by its burying-ground-which
ontinues to be in use-and a few faint traces of ... TOWER 327 Liberton.] between 1124 and 1153, according to the Lih Cartarvm Sanchz Crwis. Macbeth of Liberton ...

Vol. 6  p. 327 (Rel. 0.35)

manor, and the founder’s own mother and wife, and
of all the faithful dead, was specially directed, at
the commencement of each season of Lent, to exhort
the people to say one Pater Noster and the
salutation of the angel to the blessed Virgin Mary
for the souls of the same persons.” (“ New Stat.
Account.”)
The provostry of Corstorphine was considered
a rather lucrative office, and has been held by
several important personages. In the beginning of
the sixteenth century it was held by Robert Cairn-
CORSTORPHINE CHURCH, 1817. (After a# Efcking 6 /a?nes SRnv of Rdishw.)
present state of affairs.” Cairncross was Treasurer
of Scotland in 1529 and 1537.
In 1546, John Sandilands, son and heir of Sir
Janies Sandilands, knight of Calder (afterwards
Preceptor of Torphichen and Lord $t. John of
Jerusalem), found surety, under the pain of ten
thousand pounds, that he would remain “in warde,
in the place of Corstorphine, colege, toun, and
yards yairof, until he passed to France.” His
grandmother was Mariotte, a daughter of Archibald
Forrester of Corstorphine.
cross, whose name does not shine in the pages of
Buchanan, by the manner in which he obtained the
Abbacy of Holyroed without. subjecting himself to
the law against simony.
one meanly
descended, but a wealthy man, bought that preferment
of the king who then wanted money, eluding
the law by a new sort of fraud. The law wasthat
ecclesiastical preferments should not be sold j
but he laid a great wager with the king that he
would not bestow upon him the next preferment
of that kind which fell vacant, and by that means
lost his wager but got the abbacy.” This was in
September, 1528, and he was aware that the Abbot
William Douglas was, as Buchanan states, “ dying
of sickness, trouble of mind, and grief for the
Robert Cairncross,” he states,
In March, 1552, the Provost of Edinburgh, his
bailies, and council, ordered their treasurer, Alexander
Park, topay the prebendaries of Corstorphine
the sum of ten pounds, as the half of twenty owing
them yearly (‘ furth of the commoun gude.”
In 1554, James Scott, Provost of the Church of
Corqtorphine, was appointed a Imd of Session,
and in that year he witnessed the marriage contract
of Hugh Earl of Eglinton and Lady Jane Hamilton
daughter of James Duke of Chatelherault.
Conspicuous in the old church are the tombs of
the Forrester family. TEe portion which modem
utility has debased to a porch contains two altar
tombs, one of them being the monument of Sir
John Forrester, the founder, and his second lady,
probably, to judge by her coat-of-arms, Jean Sinclair ... and the founder’s own mother and wife, and of all the faithful dead, was specially directed, at the ...

Vol. 5  p. 116 (Rel. 0.35)

of 6 1 0 each. The benefits of the endowments are
still destined to burgesses, their wives or children
not married, nor under the age of fifty years.” Ten
others have pensions of 6 1 0 each out of the funds
I
whole area occupied by the church and collegiate
buildings of the Holy Trinity was then included
in the original termini of the. Edinburgh and
Glasgow, the North British, the Edinburgh, Perth,
GROUND PLAN OF TRINITY COLLEGE CHURCH, 1814
following succinct account in the Scofs Magazine
for 1805:-
“In 1741 Captain Alexander Horn, of thecity of
London, by his last will bequeathed &3,500, old
and new South Sea Annuities, to be disposed of at
the discretion of the Lord Provost, Bailies, Dean
of Guild, and Treasurer of the city of Edinburgh,
on account of their early appearance and noble
stand in the cause of liberty (was this a reference
to the Porteous mob ?) as follows :-The interest
of &1,5oo on Christmas-day yearly, to such day
labourers of Edinburgh as by the inclemency of the
weather may be set idle and reduced to want;
interest of &I,OOO to day labourers as aforesaid,
in the Potter Row, Bristo, and West Port; and
I
boundary-wall of its garden, in which he shows
parterres and three rows of large trees, and also a
square lantern and vane above the roof of the large
hall; and in Edgar’s map, a hundred years later,
the waters of the loch came no farther eastward
than the line of the intended North Bridge, between
which and the hospital lay the old Physic Gardens.
“Its demolition brought to light many curious
evidences of its former state,” says Wilson. .‘‘ A
beautiful large Gothic fireplace, with clustered
columns and a low, pointed arch, was disclosed in
she north gable, and many rich fragments of Gothic
ornament were found built into the walls, remains
no doubt of the original hospital buildings, used in
the enlargement and repair of the college.” The ... 6 1 0 each. The benefits of the endowments are still destined to burgesses, their wives or children not ...

Vol. 2  p. 308 (Rel. 0.35)

Holyrood. I KING DAVID’S CHARTER. 43
sake of trade ; and if it happen that they do no
come, I grant the aforesaid church from my ren
of Edinburgh forty shillings, from Stirling twentj
shillings, and from Perth forty shillings ; and ont
toft in Stirling, and the draught of one net foi
tishing ; and one toft in my Burgh of Edinburgh
free and quit of all custom and exaction ; and ont
toft in Berwick, and the draught of two nets ir
Scypwell ; one toft in Renfrew of five perches, tht
‘draught of one net for salmon, and to fish thert
for herrings freely ; and I forbid any one to exact
from you or your men any customs therefor.
‘‘ I moreover grant to the aforesaid canons from
my exchequer yearly ten pounds for the lights o
the church, for the works of that church, anc
repairing these works for ever. I charge, more
over, all my servants and foresters of Stirlingshirt
and Clackmannan, that the abbot and convent havt
free power in all my woods and forests, of taking
as much timber as they please for the building 01
their church and of their houses, and for any purpost
of theirs; and I enjoin that their men who take
timber for their use in the said woods have my
firm peace, and so that ye do not permit them tc
be disturbed in any way ; and the swine, the property
of the aforesaid church, I grant in all my
woods to be quit of pannage [food].
‘‘ I grant, moreover, to the aforesaid canons the
half of the fat, tallow, and hides of the slaughter 01
Edinburgh ; and a tithe of all the whales and seabeasts
which fall to me from Avon to Coldbrandspath;
and a tithe of all my pleas and gains from
Avon to Coldbrandspath ; and the half of my tithe
of cane, and of my pleas and gains of Cantyre and
Argyll ; and all the skins of rams, ewes, and lambs
of the castle and of Linlithgow which die of my
flock ; and eight chalders of malt and eight of meal,
with thirty *cart-loads of bush from Liberton ; and
one of my mills of Dean; and a tithe of the mill
of Liberton, and of Dean, and of the new mill of
*Edinburgh, and of Craggenemarf, as much as I
.have for the same in my domain, and as much as
JVuieth the White gave them of alms of the same
Crag. I
‘ ‘‘ I grant likewise to them leave to establish a
burgh between that church and my burgh.* And
. I grant that the burgesses have common right of
selling their wares and of buying in my market,
‘freely and quit of claim and custom, in like manner
.as my own burgesses ; and I forbid that any one
take in this burgh, bread, ale, or cloth, or any ware
-by force, or without consent of the burgesses. I
grant, moreover, that the canons be quit of toll
. Here them is no mention of the town of Hcr6Crgrrs, alleged to haw
occupied the site of the Canongate.
and of all custom in all my burghs and throughout
all my land: to wit, all things that they buy
and sell.
“And I forbid any one to take pledge on the
land of the Holy Rood, unless the abbot of that
place shall have refused to do right and justice. I
will, moreover, that they hold all that is above
written as freely and quietly as I hold my own
lands ; and I will that the abbot hold his court as
freely, fully, and honourably as the Bishop of St.
Andrews and the Abbots of Dunfermline and
Kelso hold their courts.
“Witnesses tRobert Bishop of St. Andrews,
John Bishop of Glasgow, Henry my son, William
my grandson, Edward the Chancellor, Ilerbert the
Chamberlain, Gillemichael the Earl, Gospatrick the
brother of Dolphin, Robert of Montague, Robert
of Burneville, Peter of Brus, Norman the Sheriff,
Oggu, Leising, Gillise, William of Grahani, Turston
of Crechtune, Blein the Archdeacon, Aelfric the
Chaplain, Walerain the Chaplain.” l-
This document is interesting from its simplicity,
and curious as mentioning mzny places still known
under the same names. 1
The canons regular of the order of St. Augustine
were brought there from St. Andrews in Fifeshire.
The order was first established in Scotlayd
by Alexander I. in 1114, and ere long possessed
twenty-eight monasteries or foundations in tqe
So, in process of time, ‘‘ in the hollow betweqn
two hills ” where King David was saved from the
white hart, there rose the great abbey house,
with its stately cruciform church, having three
:ewers, of which but a fragment now remainsT
i melancholy ruin. Till its completion the canods
Mere housed in the Castle, where they resided till
rbout 1176, occupying an edifice which had preiliously
been a nunnery.
The southern aisle of the nave is the only part
if the church on which a roof remains, and of the
whole range of beautifully clustered pillars on the
iorth side but two fragments alone survive. The
mtire ruin retains numerous traces of the original
vork of the twelfth century, though enriched by
he additions of subsequent ages. With reference
o the view of it in the old print which has been
:opied in these pages,$ it has been observed
hat therein “the abbey church appears with a
econd square tower, uniform with the one still
tanding at the north of the great doorway. The
ransepts are about the usual proportions, but the
:hoir is much shorter than it is proved from other
kingdom. I
-
t “Charters relatiagta Cityof E&bwgh,“&u xr43-x5+ao. 4ta. 1871.
f see ante, vol. i, p. 5. ... I KING DAVID’S CHARTER. 43 sake of trade ; and if it happen that they do no come, I grant the aforesaid ...

Vol. 3  p. 42 (Rel. 0.35)

iv OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. -
CHAPTER VI.
THE VALLEY OF THE WATER OF LEITH.
PAGE
Lady Sinclair of Dunbeath-Bell's Mills-Water of Leith Village-Mill at the Dean-Tolbwth there-Old Houses-The Dean and Poultry
-Lands thereof-The Nisbet Family-A Legend-The Dean Village-Belgrave Crescent-The Parish Church-Stewart's Hospital-
Orphan Hospita-John Watson's Hospital-The Dean Cemetery-Notable Interments there . . . . . . . . . 62
CHAPTER VII.
VALLEY OF THE WATER OF LEITH (continued).
The Dean Bridge-Landslips at Stockbridge-Stone Coffins-Floods in the Leith-Population in ~74z-St. Bernard's Estate-Rods Tower-
" Chritopher North " in Aune Street-De Quincey there-St. Bernard's Well-Cave at Randolph Cliff-Veitchs Square-Churches . . . . . . . . . . . . . . in the Locality-Sir Henry Raeburn-Old Deanhaugh House ' 70
CHAPTER VIII.
VALLEY OF THE WATER OF LEITH (concluded).
E.niiuent Men connected with Stockbridge-David Robert7. RA.--K Macleay, R.S.A.-James Browne, LL.D.-James Hogg-Sir J. Y.
Simpson, Bart. -Leitch Ritchie-General Mitchell-G. R. Luke-Comely Bank-Fettes Collegc--Craigleith Quarry-Groat Hall-Silver
Mills-St. Stephen's Church-The Brothers Lauder-Jam- Drummond, R.S.A.-Deaf and -Dumb Institution-Dean Bank Institution . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . -The Edinburgh Academy -78
CHAPTER IX.
CANONMILLS AND INVERLEITH.
CanonmillgThe Loch-Riots of 1784-The Gymnasium-Tanfield HalL-German Church-Zoological Gardens-Powder Hall-Rosebank
Cemetery-Red BraesThe Crawfords of Jordanhill-Bonnington-Bishop Keith-The Sugar Refinery-Pilrig-The Balfour Family-
Inverleith-Ancient ProprietorsThe Touris-The Rocheids-Old Lady Inverleith-General Crocket-Royal Botanical GardensMr.
JamesMacNab. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86
CHAPTER X.
THE WESTERN NEW TOWN.
Coltbridge-Roseburn House-Traditions of it-Murrayfield-Lord Henderland-Beechwood-General Leslie-The Dundaxs-Ravelston-
The Foulises and Keiths-Craigcrook-Its fint Proprietors-A Fearful Tragedy-Archibald Constable-Lord Jeffrey-Davidson's
Mains-LauristonCastle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .IOZ
CHAPTER XI,
C O R S T O R P H I N E .
ContorphintSupposed Origin of the N a m t T h e Hill-James VI. hunting there-The Cross-The Spa-The Dicks of Braid and con^
phine-" Contorphine Cream '%onvalerent House-A Wraith-The Original Chapel-The Collegiate Church-Its Provosts-Its
Old Tombs-The Castle and Loch of Cohtorphine-The Forrester Family . . . . . . . . . . . . . I 12
CHAPTER XII.
rHE OLD EDINBURGH CLUBS.
Of Old Clubs, and some Notabilia of Edinburgh Life in the Last Century-The Horn Order-The Union Club-Impious Clubs--Assembly
of Birds-The Sweating Club-The Revolution and certain other Clubs-The Beggars' Benison -The Capillaim Club-The Industrious
Company-The Wig, Exulapian, Boar, Country Dinner, The East India, Cape, Spendthrift, Pious, Antemanurn, Six Feet, and
Shakespeare Clubs-Oyster Cellars-" Frolics "-The "Duke of Edinburgh" . . . . . . . . . . . . 122 ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. - CHAPTER VI. THE VALLEY OF THE WATER OF LEITH. PAGE Lady Sinclair of Dunbeath-Bell's ...

Vol. 6  p. 394 (Rel. 0.35)

Leith.1 THE CUSTOM-HOUSE 259
EASTWARD of Leith lie those open downs called
the Links, once of much greater extent than we
find them, and doubtless at one time connected
ground to the westward of the pier, when it was
blowing fresh, with a heavy sea, and before any
assistance could be given she was driven upon
the beach, near the citadel, having beaten off her
rudder and otherwise considerably damaged herself
[sic]. They are employed in taking out the
cargo, and if the weather continues moderate, it
is expected she will be got off.”
The waves of the sea are now distant nearly two
thousand feet north from the spot where the wreck
took place.
Three of the bastions, and two of the gates of
the citadel, were standing when the old “Statistical
Account ” was published, in 1793.
Before quitting this quarter of North Leith we
may quote the following rather melancholy account
given of the latter in 1779, in a work entitled “The
Modem British Traveller,” folio, and now probably
out of print.
About a mile from the city is Leith, which may
be called the warehouse of Edinburgh. It is
divided into two parts by a small rivulet, over
which is a neat bridge of three arches. That part
called South Leith is both large and populous ; it
has an exceeding handsome church, a jail, a
custom-house [the old one in the Tolbooth Wynd],
but the streets are irregular, nor do any of the
buildings merit particular attention. It was
formerly fortified, but the works were destroyed
by the English in 1559 [?I, and not any remains
are now to be seen. That part called North
Leith is a very poor place, without any publick
building, except an old Gothic church ; there is a
small dock, but it is only capable of admitting
ships of a hundred and fifty tons. The harbour is
generally crowded with vessels from different parts;
and from here to Kinghorn, in Fifeshire, the
passage-boat crosses every tide, except on Sundays. . . . Great numbers of the citizens of Edin-
’burgh resort to Leith on parties of pleasure, and
to regale themselves with the sea air and oysters,
which are caught here in great abundance. . . .
with the wide, open, and sandy waste that extended
beyond the Figgate Burn to Magdalene
Bridge,
The town is under the jurisdiction of a bailiff CT],
but it may be called a part of, and is subject to the
jurisdiction of, Edinburgh, in virtue of a charter
granted by King Robert the Eruce.”
The Manners’ Church, a rather handsome building,
with two smail spires facing the east, is built
upon a portion of the site of the citadel, and
schools are attached to it. The church was designed
by John Henderson of Edinburgh, and
was erected in 1840.
In this quarter Sand Port Street, which led to the
then beach, with a few old houses neax the citadel,
and the old church of St. Ninian, comprised the.
whole of North Leith at the time of the Union.
There the oldest graving-dock was constructed in
1720, and it yet remains, behind a house not far
from the bridge, dated-according to Parker
Lawson-162 2.
The present custom-house of Leith was built in
1812, on the site where H.M. ship Fu~y was built
in I 780 ; and an old native of Leith, who saw her
launched, had the circumstance impressed upon
his memory, as he related to Robertson (whose
“Antiquities ” were published in 185 I), “by a carpenter
having been killed by the falling of the
shores.”
The edifice cost A12,617, is handsome, and in
the Grecian style, adorned in front with pillars and
pediment It stands at the North Leith end of the
lower drawbridge.
The officials here consist of a collector, twb
chief clerks, three first and seven second-class
clerks, with one extra ; eight writers, two surveyors,
eighteen examining officers, and a principal coast
officer for Fisherrow. The long room is handsome,
and very different from its predecessor in the Tolbooth
Wynd, which was simply divided by long
poles, through which entries were passed.
In May, 1882, the building at Dock Place (in
this quarter) known as the Sailors’ Home, was
converted into the Mercantile Marine Department
and Government Navigation School.
C H A P T E R XXIX.
LEITH  -THE LINKS. ... THE CUSTOM-HOUSE 259 EASTWARD of Leith lie those open downs called the Links, once of much greater extent ...

Vol. 6  p. 259 (Rel. 0.35)

farswade.] CAPTAIN PHILIP LOCKHART. 357
was shot, and the other two performed the like
to his body ;‘then they were shot, and laid together,
without a coffin, in a pit digged for the purpose.
Which tragical scene being thus finished, Mr.
Nairne and Mr. Lockhart were decently buried.’’
(“ Letter to a friend in the king’s camp,” Perth,
Count Lockhart was succeeded by his son
1 7 1 5 )
turesqueness and romance to any in Scotland.
The river seems all the way to be merrily frdicsome,
and rushing along a shelving gradient, now hiding
itself behind rocks and weeping wood, and making
sudden, but always mirthful, transitions in its
moods.”
A few ancient and many modem mansions and
villas stud the banks of the glen above the ancient
ROSLIN CHAPEL :-INTERIOR. (A/& a Phtograph 6y G. W. Wiison & Co.)
Charles. In the early years of the present century,
Dryden was the property of George Mercer, a son
of Mercer of Pittuchar, in Perthshire.
In this quarter, on the north bank of the Esk, are
the church and village of Lasswade, amid scenery
remarkable for its varied beauty. The bed of the
Esk lies through a deep, singularly romantic, long,
and bold ravine, always steep, sometimes perpendicular
and overhanging, and everywhere covered
with the richest copsewood. ‘‘ Recesses, contractions,
irregularities, rapid and circling sinuosities,
combine with the remarkably varied surface of its
sides, to render its scenery equal in mingled picvillage
of Lasswade, whose bridge spans the river,
and the name of which Chalmers, in his ‘‘Caledonia,’’
believes to be derived from a ‘‘ well-watered
pasturage of common use, or Zaeswc, in Saxon a
common, and iueyde, a meadow.” In an old Dutch
map it is spelt Lesserwade, supposed to mean the
opposite of Legenvood-the smaller wood in contrast
to some greater one.
The parish of Melville was added to that of
Lasswade in 1633.
In the time of James 111. the ancient Church of
Lasswade was, by the Pope’s authority, detached
from St. Salvador’s College at St Andrews, to
. ... CAPTAIN PHILIP LOCKHART. 357 was shot, and the other two performed the like to his body ;‘then they ...

Vol. 6  p. 357 (Rel. 0.35)

360 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [North Bridge
they occupied when obtained, that we are tempted to
conclude the genteeler part of the congregations in
Edinburgh deem the essential duties of religion to
be concentrated in holding and paying rent for so
many feet square in the inside of a church."
- Lady Glenorchy, whom Kincaid describes as '' a
young lady eminent for good sense and every
accomplishment that could give dignity to her
rank, and for the superior piety which made her conspicuous
as a Christian," in 1772 feued a piece of
ground from the managers of the Orphan Hospital,
at a yearly duty of d15, on which she built her
chapel, of which (following the example of Lady
Yester in another part of the city) she retained the
patronage, and the entire management with herself,
and certain persons appointed by her.
In the following year she executed a deed,
which declared that the managers of the Orphan
Hospital should have liberty (upon asking it in
proper time) to employ a preacher occasionally in
her chapel, if it was not otherwise employed, and
to apply the collections made on these occasions
in behalf of the hospital. On the edifice being
finished, she'addressed the following letter to the
Moderator of the Presbytery of Edinburgh :-
" Edin., April zgth, 1774.
"REVEREND SIR,-It is a general complaint that the
churches of this city which belong to the Establishment are
not proportioned to the number of its inhabitants, Many
who are willing to pay for seats cannot obtain them ; and no
space is left for the poor, but the remotest areas, where few of
those who find room to stand can get within hearing of any
ordinary voice. I have thought it my duty to employ part
of that substance with which God has been pleased to
entrust me in building a chapel within the Orphan House
Park, in which a considerable number of our communion
who at present are altogether unprovided may enjoy the
benefit of the same ordinances which are dispensed in the
parish churches, and where I hope to have the pleasure of
accommodating some hundreds of poor people who have
long been shut out from one of the best and to some of them
the only means of instruction in the principles of our holy
religion.
" The chapel will soon be ready to receive a congregation,
and it is my intention to have it supplied with a minister 01
approved character and abilities, who will give sufficient
security for his soundness in the faith and loyalty to Govern
ment.
"It will give me pleasure to be informed that the Pres.
bytery approve of my design, and that it will be agreeable tc
them that I should ask occasional supply from such ministen
and probationers as I am acquainted with, till a congregatior
be formed and supplied with a stated minister.-I am, Rev,
Sir, Src '' W. GLENORCKY."
The Presbytery being fully convinced not onlj
of the piety of her intentions, but the utility o
having an additional place of worship in the city
unanimously approved of the design, and in May,
1774, her chapel was opened by the Rev. Robert
Walker of the High Church, and Dr. John Erskine of
the Greyfriars ; but a number of clergy were by no
means friendly to the erection of this chapel in any
way, on the plea that the footing on which it was
admitted into connection with the Church was not
sufficiently explicit, and eventually they brought the
matter before the Synod of Lothian and Tweeddale.
Lady Glenorchy acquainted the Presbytery, in 1775,
that she intended to place in the chapel an English
dissenting preacher named Grove. The Presbytery
wrote, that though they approved of her
piety, they could give no countenance whatever to
a minister who was not a member of the Church of
Scotland; and Mr. Grove foreseeing a contest,
declined the charge, and now ensued a curious
controversy.
Lady Glenorchy again applied to the Presbytery,
wishing as incumbent the Rev. Mr. Balfour, then
minister of Lecroft; but he, with due respect for
the Established Church and its authority, declined
to leave his pastoral charge until he was assured
that the Presbytery of the city would instal him in
the chapel. The latter approved of her selection,
but declined the installation, unless there x-as a
regular " call " from the congregation, and security
given that the offerings at the chapel were never to
be under the administration of the managers of the
charity workhouse.
With this decision she declined to comply, and
wrote, " That the chapel was her own private property,
and had never been intended to be put on the
footing of the Establishment, nor connected with it
as a chapel, of ease to the city of Edinburgh ; That
having built it at her own expense, she was entitled
to name the minister : That she wished to convince
the Presbytery of her inclination, that her minister,
though not on the Establishment, should hold communication
with its members : That, with respect
to the offerings, everybody knew that she had a p
pointed trustees for the management of them, and
that those who were not pleased with this mode of
administration might dispose of their alms elsewhere;
adding that she had once and again sent part of
these offerings to the treasurer of the charity workhouse."
A majority of the Presbytery now voted her reply
satisfactory, agreed to instal her minister, and that
he should be in communion with the Established
Church, '' Thus," says h o t , who seems antagonistic
to the founders, " did the Presbytery give every
mark of countenance, and almost every benefit
arising from the Established Church, while this institution
was not subject to their jurisdiction ; while ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [North Bridge they occupied when obtained, that we are tempted to conclude the ...

Vol. 2  p. 360 (Rel. 0.35)

-
which it belonged, and annexed to Restalrig. It
stood on high ground, where its ancient square
belfry tower, four storeys in height, was a very
conspicuous object among a group of old trees,
long after the church itself bad passed away, till
it was blown down by a storm in November, 1866.
The effigy of a knight, with hands clasped, in a
full suit of armour, lay amid the foundations of the
old church as lately as 1855.
Tradition avers the tower had been occasionally
Great quantities of fruit, vegetables, and daily
produce are furnished by Lasswade for the city
markets. Save where some primitive rocks rise
up in the Pentland quarter of the parish, the whole
of its area lies upon the various secondary formations,
including sandstone, clays of several kinds,
and a great number of distinct coal-seams, with
their strata of limestone.
On the western side of the Esk the metals stand
much on edge, having a dip of 6 5 O in some
the manse previously in 1.789,
In the burying-ground are interred the first Lord
Melville and his successors.
Lasswade has long been celebrated for the excellence
of its oatmeal, the reputation of which,
through Lord Melville, reached George 111. and
Queen Charlotte, whose family were breakfasted
upon it during childhood, the meal being duly
‘ sent to the royal household by a miller of the
village, named Mutter.
surmounted its west gable. The vault, or tomb,
hundred and seventy feet.
On the eastern side of the Esk the metals have
a dip so small-amounting to only I in 7 or 8
-that the coal seams, in contradistinction to the
edge-coals, as they are called on the west side,
have obtained the name of “flat broad coals.”
One of the mines on the boundary of Liberton
was ignited by accident about the year 1770, and
for upwards of twenty years resisted fiercely every
effort made to extinguish its fire. Besides furable
coal seams are twenty-five in number, an8 ... it belonged, and annexed to Restalrig. It stood on high ground, where its ancient square belfry tower, ...

Vol. 6  p. 358 (Rel. 0.34)

Maitland granting a charter to Robert Winton
“of the barony of Hirdmanston, called Curry.”
(Robertson’s Index to Missing Charters.”)
The present bridge of Currie is said to be above
five hundred years old j and the dark pool below
gave rise to the Scottish proverb concerning intense
cunning-“ Deep as Currie Brig.”
Currie Church was an outpost of Corstorphine,
and, with Fzla, fomied part of the property given
by Mary of Gueldres to the Trinity College.
NIDDRIE HOUSE.
‘‘ Mr. Adam Letham, minister of Currie, 1568-76,
to be paid as follows: his stipend jc li, with the
Kirkland of Curry. Andrew Robeson, Reidare
(Reader at Curry; his stipend xx lb., but (it.,
without) Kirkland”
After the Reformation there was sometimes only
In the seventeenth century, Mathew Leighton,
nephew of the famous Archbishop of Glasgow, a
prelate of singular piety and benevolence, was
, one minister for four or five parishes.
It was a benefice of the Archdean of Lothian.
Even so late as the reign of Charles I., it does
not appear to have been considered a separate
parish from Corstorphine, for no mention is made of
it in the royal decree for the brief erection of the
see of Edinburgh, though all the adjoining parishes
are noticed.
Till within a few years, ironjougs hung at the
north gate of Currie Churchyard, at Hermiston
(which is a corruption of Herdmanstown), at Malleny,
and at Buteland, near Balerno.
Currie was one of the first rural places in Scotland
which had a Protestant clergyman, as appears
from the Register of Ministers,” published by the
Maitland Club :-
curate of Currie during the reign of Episcopacy ;
and, singular to say, was not expelled from his
incumbency at the Revolution in the year 1688,
but died at an advanced age, and was interred in
the church-yard, where his tomb is still an object
of interest.
The parsonage of Currie is referred to in an Act of
Parliament, under JamesVI., in 1592; and Nether
Currie is referred to in another Act, of date 1587,
granted in favour of Mark, Lord Newbattle.
Cleuchmaidstone is so named from being the
pass to the chapel of St. Katherine in the valley
below, and having a spring, in which, it is said,
pilgrims bathed before entering it.
Some parts of the parish are very elevated. ... granting a charter to Robert Winton “of the barony of Hirdmanston, called Curry.” (Robertson’s Index to ...

Vol. 6  p. 332 (Rel. 0.34)

The Sciennu.1 CRAIGMILLAR ASYLUM. SI
former, but he could not take it down without pur
chasing the latter also. The garden is supposed
to have extended as far back as the Dalkeith Road
before Minto Street was made.
Summerhall, in the Sciennes quarter, has long
been noted for its brewery. In the dreadful storm
of wind which visited Edinburgh in 1733, we are
told in the Suts Muguzine for that year, that the
ashes from several chimneys set some houses on
fire, among others that of Mr. Bryson the brewer
at Summerhall, and destroyed it, with zoo bolls of
grain.
Clerk Street Chapel was among the many new
churches that have sprung up in this district, where
we now find quite a cluster of them.
The foundation-stone of the former was laid in
1823 ; it was to be a chapel of ease for St. Cuthbert’s
parish, to contain 1,700 persons, and be
named “Hope Park Chapel.” The steeple is
about 116 feet in height. Newington Free Church,
on the east side of the street, about ohe hundred and
twenty yards farther south, is a spacious building,
erected in 1843, and enlarged afterwards with a
neat Gothic front. Hope Park United Presbyterian
Church is one hundred and fifty yards south-west
of the latter, and was erected in 1867, in lieu of a
relinquished church in the Potterrow ; and Hope
Park Congregational Church was erected in 1876,
at a cost of L6,300, in the French Romanesque
style. St. Peter‘s Episcopal Church, with a lofty
square spire, stands in Lutton Place, about one
hundred and forty yards south-east of Newington
Free Church.
. In No. 26 South Clerk Street is the Edinburgh
Literary Institute, built in 1870, and improved five
years subsequently. It contains a large hall for
lectures and concerts, and has a reading-room,
library, and several class-rooms. It is managed by
a president and twenty-four directors, with finance,
lecture, and library committees. The library contains
considerably over zo,ooo volumes, and in
the news and reading rooms are to be found the
whole serial literature of the day.
The Mayfield Loan, a continuation of the
Grange Loan, intersects Newington from east to
west. During the last century there were but two
small manor-houses here, known respectively as
East and West Mayfield Houses. The latter was
only swept away a few years ago, after being long
a wayside inn, when Mayfield Street was formed.
In the West Loan we find Mayfield Free Church
and Hall, in the early Gothic style, opened about
the end of 1876, and designed to become a large
cruciform edifice, with a steeple 150 feet high.
A little way south of this was the hamlet of the
Summerhall is a brewery still.
Powburn, once a favourite summer residence for
citizens. It gave the title of baronet to a Sir
James Keith in 1663; the title is now extinct.
But a hundred years afterwards we find advertised
as to let “The Powburn House, pleasantly situated
a little from the Grangegate Toll Bar, with
coach-house and four-stalled stable,” &c (Edinburgh
Advertiser, Vol. I.)
Here has now been erected on rising ground the
West Craigmillar Asylum for Blind Females, one of
the many noble charities which do such honour to
Edinburgh. It stands amid an ornamental plot of
four acres; was founded in April, 1874, and completed
three years afterwards, at a cost of L13,ooo.
It consists of a main body and wings in a light
French style of architecture. The front elevation
is 160 feet long; the main block is three storeys
high, with a porticoed entrance, and is surmounted
by a clock-tower 80 feet in height. Each wing
has a French roof, designed in a manner to enhance
the appearance of this tower.
The reception-hall is circular, with a diameter
of I I I feet ; there are two work-rooms, each 72 feet
by 20 ; adining-hall, 115 feet long, with a roof about
24 feet high of open timber work. This noble
edifice has superseded both the asylum for blind
female adults in Nicolson Street, and that for blind
female children in Gayfield Square, and accomniodates
150 inmates.
Newington consists almost entirely of lines of
handsome villas, bordering spacious thoroughfares,
and contains the houses in which the Rev. Dr.
Thomas hlcCrie, the Rev. Dr. John Brown, and
the Rev. Dr. William Cunningham, lived and died.
House property, principally in villas, throughout
the southern suburbs eastward of the Burghmuirhead,
was erected in the few years ending 1877, to
the value of A1,358,550.
Mayfield Established Church was at firs’t only a
temporary iron erection, facing Craigmillar Park,
but in 1877 was superseded by a stone structure
which cost about L5,ooo.
The most ancient edifices that stood in the
Newington district of Edinburgh were the Chapel
of St. John the Baptist, on the eastern verge of
the Burghmuir, and the Convent of St. Katharine
of Scienna, which gave its name to the suburb now
named the Sciennes.
The former was long a solitary chaplaincy,
founded and endowed, towards the close of the
reign of James IV., by Sir John Crawford, a canon
of St. Giles’s Church ; ‘‘ and portions of the ruins,”
says Wlson, “are believed still to form part of
the garden wall of a hocse on the west side of
Newington, called Sciennes Hall.” There a species ... Sciennu.1 CRAIGMILLAR ASYLUM. SI former, but he could not take it down without pur chasing the latter also. ...

Vol. 5  p. 51 (Rel. 0.34)

138 - OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [West Church.
mode of procedure, made no resistance; and so
.active were the workmen that before sunset the
road was sufliciently formed to allow the bettor to
drive his carriage triumphantly over it, which he
did amidst the acclamations ofa great multitude of
persons, who flocked from the town to witness the
-issue of this extraordinary undertaking. Among
-the instances of temporary distress occasioned to
-the inhabitants, the most laughable was that of a
-poor simple woman who had a cottage and small
cow-feeding establishment upon the spot. It ap-
.pears that this good creature had risen early, as
usiial, milked her cows, smoked her pipe, taken
her ordinary matutinal tea, and lastly, recollecting
that she had some friends invited to dine kith her
cupon sheep-head and kail about noon, placed the
pot upon the fire, in order that it might simmer
peaceably till she should return from town, where
she had to supply a numerous set of customers with
the produce of her dairy. Our readers may judge
the consternation of this poor woman when, upon
her return from the duties of the morning, she
found neither house, nor byre, nor cows, nor fire,
nor pipe, nor pot, nor anything that was here
upon the spot where she had left them but a few
hours before. All had vanished, like the palace of
Aladdin, leaving not a wrack behind.”
Such was the origin of that broad and handsome
street which now leads to where the Castle Barns
:stood of old.
The Kirkbraehead House was demolished in
1869, when the new Caledonian Railway Station
was formed, and with it passed away the southern
portion of the handsome modern thoroughfare
named Rutland Street, and several other structures
.in the vicinity of the West Church.
Of these the most important was St. George’s
Free Church, built in 1845, at the north-east corner
.of Cuthbert’s Lane, the line of which has since been
turned into Rutland Street, in obedience to the
inexorable requirements of the railway.
During its brief existence this edifice was alone
famous for the ministrations of the celebrated Rev.
Robert Candlish, D.D., one of the most popular of
Scottish preachers, and one of the great leaders of
the “ Non Intrusion ” party during those troubles
-which eventually led to the separation of the
.Scottish Church into two distinct sections, and the
establishment of that Free Kirk to which we shall
have often to refer. He was born about the commencement
of the century, in 1807, and highly
aegarded as a debater. He was author of an
.“Exposition of the Book of Genesis,” works on
4‘ The Atonement,” ‘6 The Resurrection,” “ Life of
a Risen Saviour,” and other important theological
books. In 18Gr he was Moderator of the Free
Church Assembly.
The church near St. Cuthbert’s was designed by
the late David Cousin in the Norman style of
architecture, and the whole edifice, which was
highly ornate, after being carefully taken down, was
re-constructed in its own mass in Deanhaugh Street,
Stockbridge, as a free church for that locality.
While the present Free St. George’s in Maitland
Street was in course of erection, Dr. Candlish
officiated to his congregation in the Music Hall,
George Street. He died, deeply regretted by them
and by all classes, on the 19th of October, 1873.
The next edifice of any importance demolished
at the time was the Riding School, with the old
Scottish Naval and Military Academy, so long
superintended byan old officer of the Black Watch,
and well-known citizen, Captain, John Orr, who
carried one of the colours of his regiment at
Waterloo. It was a plain but rather elegant Grecian
edifice, under patronage of the Crown, for train-,
ing young men chiefly for the service of the royal
and East India Company’s services, and to all the
ordinary branches of education were added fortification,
military drawing, gundrill, and military
exercises; but just about the time its site was
required by the railway the introduction of a
certain amount of competitive examination at military
colleges elsewhere rendered the institution
unnecessary, though Scotland is certainly worthy
of a military school of her own. Prior to its extinction
the academy sufficed to send more than a
thousand young men as officers into the army,
many of whom have risen to distinction in every
quarter of the globe.
The new station of the Caledonian Railway,
which covered the sites of the buildings mentioned,
and with its adjuncts has a frontage to the Lothian
Road of 1,100 feet (to where it abuts upon the
United Presbyterian Church) by about 800 feet at
its greatest breadth, forms a spacious and handsome
terminus, erected at the cost of more than it;~o,ooo,
succeeding the more temporary station at first
projected on the west side of the Lothian Road,
about half a furlong to the south, andivhich was
cleared and purchased at an enormous cost. It is
a most commodious structure, with a main front
103 feet long and zz feet high, yet designed only
for temporary use, and is intended to give place to
a permanent edifice of colossal proportions and
more than usual magnificence, with a great palatial
hotel to acljoin it, according to the custom now so
common as regards great railway termini. ... - OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [West Church. mode of procedure, made no resistance; and so .active were the workmen ...

Vol. 3  p. 138 (Rel. 0.34)

38 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [ hlorningside.
reported to the Privy Council that he and the
Napiers of Edinbellie, having quarrelled about the
tiend sheaves of Merchiston, “ intended to convoa
t e their kin, and sic as will do for them in arms:
but to prevent a breach of the peace, William
Napier of the Wrychtishousis, as a neutral person,
was ordered by the Council to collect the sheaves
in question.
In 1614 he produced his book of logarithms,
dedicated to Pripce Charles-a discovery which
made his name famous all over Europe-and on
the 3rd of April, 1617, he died in the ancient tower
of Merchiston. His eldest son, Sir Archibald,
was made a baronet of Nova Scotia by Charles I.,
and in 1627 he was raised to the peerage as
Lord Napier. His lady it was who contrived to
have abstracted the heart of Montrose from the
mutilated body of the great cavalier, as it lay
buried in the place appointed for the interment
of criminals, in an adjacent spot of the Burghmuir
(the Tyburn of Edinburgh). Enclosed in a casket
of steel, it was retained by the family, and underwent
adventures so strange and remarkable that a
volume would be required to describe them.
Merchiston has been for years occupied as a
large private school, but it still remains in possession
of Lords Napier and Ettrick as the cradle of
their old and honourable house.
In 1880, during the formation of a new street on
the ground north of Merchiston, a coffin fornied of
rough stone slabs was discovered, within a few feet
of the surface. It contained the remains of a fullgrown
human being.
Eastward of the castle, and within the park where
for ages the old dovecot stood, is now built Christ’s
Church, belohging to the Scottish Episcopalians. It
was built in 1876-7, at a cost of about cf10,500, and
opened in 1878. It is a beautifully detailed cruciforni
edifice, designed by Mr. Hippolyte J. Blanc,in
the early French-Gothic style, with a very elegant
spire, 140 feet high. From the west gable to the
chancel the nave measures eighty-two feet long and
forty broad ; each transept measures twenty feet by
thirty wide. The height of the church from the
floor to the eaves is twenty feet; to the ridge of
the roof fifty-three feet. The construction of the
latter is of open timber work, with moulded arched
ribs resting on ‘‘ hammer beams,” which, in their
turn, are supported upon red freestone shafts, with
white freestone capitals and bases, boldly and beautifully
moulded.
The chancel presents the novel feature of a
circumambient aisle, and was built at the sole
expense of Miss Falconer of Falcon Hall, at a cost
of upwards of L3,ooo.
Opposite, within the lands of Greenhill, stands
the Morningside Athenmm, which was originally
erected, in 1863, as a United Presbyterian
church, the congregation of which afterwards
removed to a new church in the Chamberlain
Road.
North of the old villa of Grange Bank, and on
the west side of the Burghmuir-head road, stands
the Free Church, which was rebuilt in 1874, and
is in the Early Pointed style, with a fine steeple,
140 feet high. The Established Church of the
quoad sacra parish, disjoined from St. Cuthbert’s
since 1835, stands at the south-west corner of the
Grange Loan (then called in the ‘maps, Church
Lane), and was built about 1836, from designs by
the late John Henderson, and is a neat little
edifice, with a plain pointed spire.
The old site of the famous Bore Stone was
midway between this spot and the street now called
Church Hill. In a house-No. r-here, the great
and good Dr. Chalmers breathed his last.
CHAPTER IV.
DISTRICT OF THE BURGHMUIR (cuncZudPd).
Morningside and Tipperlin-Provost Coulter’s Funeral-Asylum for the Insane-Sultana of the Crimea-Old Thorn Tree-The Braids of that
Ilk-The Fairleys of Braid-Thr Plew Lands-Craiglockhart Hall and House-The Kincaids and other Proprietors--John Hill Burton The
Old Tower-Meggathd and Redhall-White House Loan-The bwhite House-St. Margaret’s Convent-Bruntsfield House-The War.
renders4reenhill and the Fairholmes-Memorials of the Chapel of St. Roqw-St. Giles’s Grange-The Dicks and Lauders-Grange
Cemetery-Memorial Churches.
SOUTHWARD of the quarter we. have been describing,
stretches, nearly to the foot of the hills of
Braid and Blackford, Morningside, once a secluded
village, consisting of little more than a row of
thatched cottages, a line of trees, and a blacksmith’s
forge, from which it gradually grevt- to become
an agreeable environ and summer resort of
I the citizens, with the fame of being the “Montpellier
’’ of the east of Scotland, alluring invalids to
its precincts for the benefit of its mild salubrious . air& around what was the old village, now man ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [ hlorningside. reported to the Privy Council that he and the Napiers of Edinbellie, ...

Vol. 5  p. 38 (Rel. 0.34)

North Bridge.] LADY GLENORCHY. 361
they dispensed with the ‘moderation of the call,’
a form about which they stickle zealously, if by it
they could get a minister presented by the legal
patron to be rejected; while they did not insist
upon the stipend being properly secured ; while
they agreed to permit Lady Glenorchy to dispose
without control, upon those pious offerings which
should have been applied towards the support of
the chanty workhouse; while they, in fact, eluded
that right of patronage over all churches in this city,
the chapel to all the privileges it had enjoyed
by the countenance and protection of the
Presbytery.
In 1776 Lady Glenorchy invited Dr. Thomas
Snell Jones, a Wesleyan Methodist, to accept the
charge of her chapel, and after being ordained to
the office of pastor by the Scottish Presbytery of
London he became settled as incumbent on the
25th of July, 1779, and from that date continued
to labour as such, until about three years before his
holding communion with the Established ministers,
which is vested in the magistrates of Edinburgh ;
and while they had no powver to depose from the
benefice in this chapel the minister installed by
them in case of his errors in life or doctrine !”
To avoid unpleasantness, Mr. Balfour, like Mr.
Grove, declined the charge.
It was now that the matter came before the
Synod, which not only gave judgment in the
matter, but forbade all ministers or probationers
within their bounds to preach in this unlucky
chapel, or to employ the minister of it in any
capacity. From this sentence the Presbytery of
Edinburgh appealed to the next General Assembly
of the Church, which reversed it, and restored
46
death, which occurred on the 3rd of March, 1837,
a period of nearly fiRyeight years.
He preached the funeral sermon on the demise
of Lady Glenorchy on the 17th July, 1786, in
her forty-fourth year. She was buried, by her
own desire, in avault in the centre of the chapel
By a settlement made some time before her death,
she endowed the latter with a school which wac
built near it. Therein, a hundred poor children
were taught to read and write. It was managed
by trustees, with instructions which secure its perpetuity.
Lady Glenorchy’s Free Church schooI is
now at Greenside.
In I 792 Dr. Jones had as a colleague, Dr. Greville
Ewing, afterwards editor of 2’’ Missionary ... Bridge.] LADY GLENORCHY. 361 they dispensed with the ‘moderation of the call,’ a form about which they ...

Vol. 2  p. 361 (Rel. 0.34)

Victoria Street.] THE MECHANICS’ LIBRARY. 291
CHAPTER XXXV.
SOME OF THE NEW STREETS WITHIN THE AREA OF THE FLODDEN WALL (concZuded).
Victoria Street and Ter-The India Buildings-Mechanics’ Subscription Library-George IV. BridgeSt. Augustine’s Church-Martyrs’
Church-Chamber of the Hiehland and Amicultural Societv--SherifP Court Buildings and Solicitors’ Hall-Johnstone Terrace-St. John’s -
Free Church-The Church of Scotland Training College.
VICTORIA STREET, which opens from the west side
of George IV. Bridge, and was formed as the result
of the same improvement Scheme by which
that stately bridge itself was erected, from the
north end of the Highland and Agricultural Society’s
Chambers curves downward to the northeast
corner of the Grassmarket, embracing in that
curve the last remains of the ancient West Bow.
Some portions of its architecture are remarkably
ornate, especially the upper portion of its south
side, where stands the massive pile, covered in
many parts with rich carving, named the India
Buildings, in the old Scottish baronial style, of
unique construction, consisting of numerous offices,
entered from a series of circular galleries, and
erected in 1867-8, containing the Scottish Chamber
of Agriculture, which was instituted in November,
1864. Its objects are to watch over the interests
of practical agriculture, to promote the advancement
of that science by the discussion of all subjects
relating to it, and to consider questions that
may be introduced into Parliament connected with
it. The business of the Chamber is managed by
a president, vice-president, and twenty directors,
twelve of whom are tenant farmers. It holds fixed
meetings at Perth in autumn, and at Edinburgh
in November, annually; and all meetings are open
to the press.
In the centre of the southern part of the street
is St. John’s Established church, built in 1838, in
a mixed style of architecture, with a Saxon doorway.
It is faced on the north side by a handsome
terrace, portions of which rise from an open arcade,
and include a Primitive Methodist church, or
Ebenezer chapel, and an Original Secession
church. Victoria Terrace is crossed at its western
end bya flight of steps, which seem to continue
the old line of access afforded by the Upper West
Bow.
No. 5 Victoria Terrace gives access to one of
the most valuable institutions in the city-the
Edinburgh Mechanics’ Subscription Library. It
was established in 1825, when its first president
was Mr. Robert Hay, a printer, and Mr. John
Dunn, afterwards a well-known optician, was vicepresident,
and it has now had a prosperous career
of more than half a century.
The library is divided into thirteen sections :-
I, Arts and Sciences ; 2, Geography and Statistics ;
3, History; 4, Voyages, Travels, and Personal
Adventures ; 5, Biography ; 6, Theology ; 7, Law ;
8, Essays; 9, Poetry and the Drama; 10, Novels
and Romances ; I I, Miscellaneous ; I 2, Pamphlets ;
13, Periodicals. Each of these sections has a particular
classification, and they are all constantly
receiving additions, so as to CaNy out the original
object of the institution-“ To procure an extensive
collection of books on the general literature
of the country, including the most popular works
on science.”
Thus every department of British literature is
amply represented on its shelves, and at a charge
so moderate as to be within the reach of all classes
of the community: the entry-money being only
2s. 6d., and the quarterly payments IS. 6d.
The management of this library has always been
vested in its own members, and few societies adhere
so rigidly to their original design as the
Mechanics’ Library has done. It has, from the
first, adapted itself to the pecuniary circumstances
of the working man, and from the commencement
it has been a self-supporting institution ; though
in its infancy its prosperity was greatly accelerated,
as its records attest, by liberal donations of works
in almost every class of literature. Among the
earliest contributors in this generous spirit, besides
many of its own members, were Sir James Hall,
Bart., of Dunglas, so eminent for his attainments
in geological and chemical science; his son,
Captain Basil Hall, R.N., the well-known author ;
Mr. Leonard Horner ; and the leading publishers
of the day-Messrs. Archibald Constable, William
Blackwood, Adam Black, Waugh and Innes, with
John Murray of London. Some of them were
munificent in their gifts, “ besides granting credit
to any amount required-an accommodation of
vital service to an infant institution.”
The property of the library is vested in trustees,
who consist of two individuals chosen by vote
every fifth year, in addition to “the Convener of
the Trades of the City of Edinburgh, the principal.
librarian to the Faculty of Advocates, and the
principal librarian to the Society of Writers to Her
Majesty‘s Signet, for the time being.”
The right of reading descends to the heirs ... Street.] THE MECHANICS’ LIBRARY. 291 CHAPTER XXXV. SOME OF THE NEW STREETS WITHIN THE AREA OF THE ...

Vol. 2  p. 291 (Rel. 0.33)

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS . .
THE UNIVERSITY.-~~ontirpi~ce.
PAGE
The Kirk-of-Field . . . . . . . I
Rough Sketch of the Kirk.of.Field, February. 1567.
taken hastily for the English Court . . . 5
The Library of the Old University. as seen from the
south-east corner of the Quadrangle. looking North
The Lihrary of the Old University. as seen from the
south-western corner of the Quadrangle. looking
East . . . . . . . . ., 12
Part of the Buildings of the South side of thc Quad-
Laying the Foundation Stone of the New University.
9
rangle of the Old University . . . . 13
November 16. 1789 . . . . . . 17
The original Design for the East Front of the New
Building for the University of Edinburgh . . 20
Original Plan of the Principal Storey of the New
Building for the University of Edinburgh . . ZI
The Quadrangle. Edinburgh University . . . 25
The Library Hall. Edinburgh University . . . z8
The Bore-Stane . . . . . . . . . zg
Wright’s Houses and the Barclay Church. from Brnnts-
. . . . . . . field Links 32
TheAvenue. Bruntsfield Links . . . . . 33
Wrychtishousis. from the South-west . . . . 36
Merchiston Castle ; Napier Room ; Queen Mary’s Pear
Tree ; Drawing Room ; Entrance Gateway
Tu /;(cc pap 37
. . . Cillespie’s Hospital. from the East ’ 37
Christ Church. Morningside . 41
Braid Cottages. 1850 . . . . . . . 40
. . . .
The Hermitage . Braid ; Craig House ; Kitchen. Craig
House; Dining-room Craig House . . . 44
TheGrangeCernetery . . . . . . 45
OldTombat Warrender Park . . . . . 46
Warrender House ; St . Margaret’s Convent ; Ruins of
St . Roque’s Chapel ; Grange House. 1820 ; Draw- . . . ing-room in Orange House, 1882 . 48
Broadstairs House. Causawayside. 1880 . . . 52
Mr . Dullcan McLaren . . . . . .
Ruins of the Convent of St . Katharine. Sciennes.
north-west view. 1854 . . . . .
Interior of the Ruins of the Convent of St . Katharine.
Sciennes . 1854 . . . . . . .
Seal of the Convent of St . Katharine . . . .
Prestonfield House . . . . . . .
Old Houses . Echo Bank . . . . . .
Craigmillar Castle . . . . Tofarepage
Craigmillar Castle: The Hall ; The Keep; Queen
Mary’s Tree; South-west Tower ; The Chapel .
Peffer Mill House . . . . . . . .
Bell’s Mills Bridge . . . . . . .
The Dean House. 1832 . . . . . .
Watson’s, Orphans’. and Stewart’s Hospitals. from
Drumsheugh Grounds. 1859 . . . .
Views in the Dean Cemetery . . . . .
Randolph Cliff and Dean Bridge . Tofacepage
The Water of Leith Village . : . . .
The Water of Leith. 1825 . . . . . .
3 . Bernard’s Well. 1825 . . . . . .
The House where David Roberts was horn . . .
Fettes College. from the South-west . . . .
St . Stephen’s Church . :‘ . . . . . .
The Edinburgh Academy . . . . . .
Canonmills Loch and House. 1830 . . . .
Heriot’s Hill House . . . . . . .
Tanfield Hall . . . . . . . .
Pilrig House . . . . . . . .
Bonnington House ; Stewadfield ; Redbraes ; Silvermills
House ; Broughton Hall; Powder Hall ;
Canonmills House . . . . . .
View in Bonnington. 185 I . . . . . .
Warriston House . . . . . . .
The Royal Botanic Gardens: General View of the
Gardens ; The Arboretum ; Rock Garden ; Palm
PAGE
53
54
54
55
56 ’
57
58
60
6:
64
65
68
69
70
72
73
76
77
80
81
84
85
88
89
92
93
96
97
.Houses ; Class Room and Entrance to Museum . 100 ... OF ILLUSTRATIONS . . THE UNIVERSITY.-~~ontirpi~ce. PAGE The Kirk-of-Field . . . . . . . I Rough Sketch of ...

Vol. 6  p. 401 (Rel. 0.33)

218 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Leith.
bestowed by the piety of private donors on the
hospital of St. Anthony, and the imposition of a
duty on all wine brought into the port for the
augmentation of its reduced funds.”
Here certain poor women were maintained, being
presented thereta by the United Corporation 01
Leith. 1 About the middle of the seventeenth century
the edifice had become dilapidated or unequal
to the requirements of the poor; thus another was
erected on or near the same site. .If was a building
of very unpretending aspect, and, according to
Gncaid, measured only fifty-six feet by thirty, The
privilege of admission was confined to the Maltmen,
Trades, and Traflickers or Merchant Company
of Leith. Small pensions were given from
the hospital funds occasionally to persons who
were not resident therein. ‘The revenues are now
merged in the general income of the parish of South
Leith.
On the same side of the street stands the ancient
church of South Leith, dedicated to St. Mary.
The ancient seat and name of this parish was
Restalrig. In 1 z 14 Thomas of that place made a
grant of some tenements, which he describes as
situated “ southward of the High Street,” supposed
to be in the line of the present Leith Walk, “between
Edinburgh and Leith,” if this is not a reference
to the Kirkgate itself; and perhaps he-had a
church on the manor from which he took his
name.
A chapel dedicated to the Virgin Mary, patroness
of the town and port, and situated in South Leith,
preceded by more than a century the origin of the
present edifice, and was enriched by many donations
and annuities for the support within it of
altars and chaplainries dedicated to St Peter, St.
Barbara, St. Bartholomew, and others, The destruction
of ecclesiastical records at the Reformation
involves the date of the foundation of the
present church in utter obscurity. It can only be
surmised that it was erected towards the close of
the fourteenth century ; but notwithstanding its
large size-what remains now being merely a small
portion of the original edifice-the name of its
founder is utterly unknown. The earliest notice of
it occurs in 1490, when a contribution of an annual
rent is made by Peter Falconer in Leith to the
chaplain of St. Peter‘s altar, (‘situat in the Virgin
Mary Kirk in Leith.” The latest of similar grants
was made on the 8th July, 1499.
The choir and transepts are said to have been
destroyed by the English, according to Maitland
and Chalmers, in 1544. “ No other evidence exists
however, in support of this,” according to Wilson,
<‘ than the general inference deducible from the
burning of Leith, immediately before their embarkation-
a procedure which, unless accompanied by
more violent modes of .destruction, must have left
the Gmainder of the church in the same condition
as. the nave, which still exists.” He therefore
concludes that the choir and transepts had been
destroyed by the Scottish and English cannon
during the great siege, in which the tower of St.
Anthony perished
Robertson, an acute local antiquarg, held the
same theory. That the church was partially destroyed
after the battle of Pinkie is obvious from
the following letter, written by Sir Thomas Fisher
to the Lord Protector of England :-‘‘ I Ith October,
1548. Having had libertie to walke abroad in the
town of Edinburghe with his taker, and sometymes
betwix that and Leghe, he telleth me that Leghe is
entrenched about, and that besydes a bulwarke
made by the haven syde near the sea, on the ground
where the chapel stood (St. Nicholas), which I
suppose your Grace remembereth, there is another
greater bulwarke made on the mane ground at the
great church standing at the upper end of the
town towards Edinburghe.” (Mait. Club.)
In a history published in the Won’rour MisceZZany
we are told that in 1560 the English “lykewise
shott downe some pairt of the east end of the
Kirk of Leith,” thus destroying the choir and transepts.
On Easter Sunday, when the people were at mass,
a great ball passed through the eastern window, just
before the elevation of the host.
That Hertford‘s two invasions were unnecessarily
savage-truly Turkish in their atrocities, as dictated,
in the first instance, by order of Henry VIII.
-k perfectly well known ; but it is less so that he
materially aided the work of the Reformers.
In 1674 a stone tower, surmounted in the Scoto-
Dutch taste by a conical spire of wood and metal,
was erected at the west end; and in 1681 a clock
was added thereto.
The English advanced, and took possession of
Leith immediately after the battIe of Pinkie, and
remained there for some days, after failing in their
unsuccessful attempt on Edinburgh. During that
time the Earl of Huntly and many other Scottish
prisoners of every rank and degree were confined
in St Mary‘s Church, while treating for their ransom,
“The cruelty,” says Tytler, ‘‘ of the slaughter at
Pinkie, and the subsequent severities at Leith,
excited universal indignation ; and the idea that a
Free country was to be compelled into a pacific
matrimonial alliance, amid the groans of its dying
citizens and the flames of its seaports, was revolting
snd absurd.” ‘
, ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Leith. bestowed by the piety of private donors on the hospital of St. Anthony, and ...

Vol. 6  p. 218 (Rel. 0.33)

Leith! THE REV. JOHN LOGAN.
The first Protestant minister of Leith, at the
settlement of the Reformation in 1560, was David
Lindsay, who was Moderator of the Assembly in
1557and 1582, andwho, in the year 1573,attended
Sir William Kirkaldy of Grange on the scaffold.
He accompanied James VI. to Norway, married
him to Anne of Denmark, and baptised their sons :
the Prince Henry, who died young, and the Duke
of Albany, afterwards Charles I. So early as 1597
his inclination to episcopacy alienated him from
his Presbyterian brethren; and in 1600, as a reward
for aiding the king in defence of his royal prerogative,
he was made Bishop of Ross.
He was one of the only two clergymen in all
Scotland who, at the royal command, prayed for
the friendless and defenceless Mary. He died at
Leith in 1613, in his eighty-thud year, and, says
Spottiswood, was buried there “by his own directions,
as desiring to rest with the people on whom
he had taken great pains during his life.” He was
the lineal descendant of Sir Walter Lindsay of
Edzell, who fell at Flodden.
Walter, first Earl of Buccleuch, commander of
a Scottish regiment under the States of Holland,
having died in London in the winter of 1634, his
body was embalmed, and sent home by sea in a
Kirkcaldy ship, which, after being sorely tempesttossed
and driven to the coast of Norway, reached
Leith in the June of the following year, when the
earl’s remains were placed jn St Mary’s church,
where they lay for twenty days, till the Clan Scott
mustered, and a grand funeral was accorded them
at Hawick, the heraldic magnificence of which
had rarely been seen in Scotland, while the
mourning trumpets wailed along the banks of the
Teviot. A black velvet pall, powdered with silver
tears, covered the coffin, whereon lay “the defunct’s
helmet and coronet, overlaid with cypress, to show
that he had been a soldier.”
It was not until 1609 that St. Maryk was constituted
by Act of Parliament a parish chuch, and
invested with all the revenues and pertinents of
Xestalrig,
When the troops of Cromwell occupied Leith,
as the parish registers record, Major Pearson, the
town major of the garrison, by order of Timothy
-Wi&es, the English governor-depute, went to James
Stevenson, the kirk treasurer,and demanded the keys
of St. Mary’s, informing him that no Scots minister
was to preach till further orders ; so eventually the
people had to hear. sermons on the Links, with
difficulty getting the gates open, from seven in the
morning till two in the afternoon on Sunday.
In 1656 they sent a petition to Cromwell in
England, praying him “to restore the church; as
there is no place to meet in but the open fields.”
To this petition no answer seems to have been
returned; but during this period there are, says
Robertson, in his “Antiquities of Leith,” iqdications
that Oliver’s own chaplains, and even his officers,
conducted services in St. Mary’s church. “It has
often been asserted,” he adds, “that at this time
St. Mary‘s was converted into a stable to accommodate
the steeds of the troopers of Cromwell j it
has been added, a company of his Ironsides, with
their right hands (i.e., their horses), abased the
temple.’ No authority exists for this, save vague
tradition, to which the reader may attach what importance
he may deem fit.”
Previous to the Revolution of 1688 a separation
of the congregation is recorded in the church at
Leith, those who adhered to prelacy occupying the
latter, while the pure Presbyterians formed a separate
party at the Meeting-House Green, ne& the
Sheriff (Shirra) Brae. The latter, belonging to North
as well as South Leith, were permitted to meet
there for prayer and sermon, by special permission
of King James in 1687, Mr. William Wishart being
chosen minister of that congregation.
The Rev. John Logan, the author of various
poetical works, but known as the inglorious and
but lately-detected pirate of some manuscripts of
Michael Bruce, the Scottish Kirk White, was
appointed minister of this church in 2773. He
was certainly a highly-gifted man ; and though his
name is, perhaps, forgotten in South Britain, he
will be remembered in Scotland as long as her
Church uses those beautiful Scripture paraphrases,
the most solemn of which is the hymn, The hour
of my departure ’s come.”
, He was the son of a small farmer near Fala, and
was born in 1748. He delivered a course of
lectures in Edinburgh with much success, and
had a tragedy called “ Runnyrnede ” acted in the
theatre there, when, fortunately for him, the times
were somewhat changed from those when the
production of Home’s ‘‘ Douglas ” excited such a
grotesque ferment ~ in the Scottish Church. He
became latterly addicted to intemperance, the
result of great mental depression, and, proceeding
to London, lived by literary labour bf various
kinds, but did not long survive his transference
to the metropolis, as he died in a lodging in Great
Marlborough Street on the 28th December, 1288.
In the burying-ground attached to St. Mary’s,
John Home, the author of “Douglas” and other
literary works, a native of Leith, was interred in
September, 1808.
In 1848, during the ri9.m~ of George Aldiston
Machen, fourth Provost of Leith, the old church ... THE REV. JOHN LOGAN. The first Protestant minister of Leith, at the settlement of the Reformation in 1560, ...

Vol. 6  p. 219 (Rel. 0.33)

325 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Bristo Sheet.
g died; but Scotland was not then, nor for long
after, susjected to the incessant immigration of the
Irish poor, The government of this house was
vested in ninety-six persons, who met quarterly,
and fifteen managers, who met weekly. There
were also a treasurer, chaplain, surgeon, and other
officials.
This unsightly edifice survived the Darien House
for some years, but was eventually removed to
make way for the handsome street in a line with
George IV. Bridge, containing the Edinburgh Rifle
Volunteer Hall, and the hall of the Odd Fellows.
At the acute angle between Forrest Road and
Bristo Street is the New North Free Church,
erected in 1846. It presents Gothic fronts to both
thoroughfares, and, has a massive projecting front
basement, adorned with a small Gothic arcade.
In 1764 we first hear of something like a trade
strike, when a great number of journeyman masons
met in July in Bristo Park (on the open side of
the street, near Lord ROSS’S house), where they
formed a combination “not to work in the ensuing
week unless their wages were augmented. This,
it seems, they communicated to their masters on
Saturday night, but had no satisfactory answer.
Yestcrday morning they came to work, but finding
no hopes of an augmentation, they all, with one
consent, went oft The same evening the mastermasons
of the city, Canongate, Leith, and suburbs,
met in order to concert what measures may be
proper to be taken in this affair.” (Edin. Adnert.,
They resolved not to increase the wages of the
men, and to take legal advice “to prevent undue
combinations, which are attended with many bad
effects.” The sequel we have no means of knowing.
The same print quoted records a strike among the
sweeps, or tronmen, in the same park, and elsewhere
adds that “ an old soldier has lately come to town
who sweeps chimneys after the English manner,
which has so disgusted the society cif chimneysweepers
that they refuse to sweep any unless this
man is obliged to leave the town, upon which a
number of them have been put in prison to-day.
They need not be afraid of this old soldier taking
the bread from them, as few chimneys in this place
will admit of a man going through.them.” (Edin.
Adverf., Vol. 111.)
In the Bristo Port, or that portion of the street
so called, stood long the Old George Inn, from
whence the coaches, about 1788, were wont to set
forth for Carlisle and London, three weekly-fare
to the former, AI IOS., to the latter, A3 10s. 6dand
from whence, till nearly the railway era, the
waggons were despatched every lawful day to
Vol. 11.)
London and all parts of England ; ‘‘ also every day
to Greenock, Glasgow, and the west of Scotland.”
Southward of where .this inn stood is now St.
Mary’s Roman Catholic school, formerly a church,
built in 1839. It is a pinnacled Gothic edifice, and
was originally dedicated to St Patrick, but was
superseded in 1856, when the great church in the
Cowgate was secured by the Bishop of Edinburgh.
Lothian Street opens eastward from this point
In a gloomy mZ-de-sac on its northern side is a
circular edifice, named Brighton Chapel, built in
1835, and seated for 1,257 persons. Originally, it
was occupied by a relief congregation. The continuation
of the thoroughfare eastward leads to
College Street, in which we find a large United
Presbyterian church.
In a court off the east side of Bristo Street, a few
yards south from the east end.of Teviot Row, is
another church belonging to the same community,
which superseded the oldest dissenting Presbyterian
church in Edinburgh. In a recently-published
history of this edifice, we are told that early in the
century, “when the old church was pulled down,
within the heavy canopy of the pulpit ” (the sounding-
board) ‘( were found three or four skeletons of
horses’ heads, and underneath the pulpit platform
about twenty more. It was conjectured that they
had been placed there from some notion that the
acoustics of the place would be improved.”
The church was built in 1802, at a cost of
&,o84, and was enlarged afterwards, at a further
cost of A1,515, and interiorly renovated in 1872
for A~,300. It is a neat and very spacious edifice,
and was long famous for the ministry of the Rev.
Dr. James Peddie, who was ordained as a pastor of
that congregation on the 3rd April, 1783. On his
election, a large body of the sitters withdrew, and
formed themselves into the Associate Congregation
of Rose Street, of which the Rev. Dr. Hall
subsequently became minister ; but the Bristo
Street congregation rapidly recruited its numbers
under the pastoral labours of Dr. Peddie, and from
that time has been in a most flourishing condition.
In 1778, when six years of age, Sir Walter Scott
attended the school of Mr. Johu Luckmore, in
Hamilton’s Entry, off Bristo Street, a worthy preceptor,
who was much esteemed by his father, the
old Writer to the Signet, with whom he was for
many years a weekly guest. The school-house,
though considerably dilapidated, still exists, and
is occupied as a blacksmith‘s shop. It is a small
cottage-like building with a red-tiled roof, situated
on the right-hand side of the court called Hamilton’s
Entry, No. 36, Bristo Street. As to the identity of
the edifice there can be no doubt, as it was ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Bristo Sheet. g died; but Scotland was not then, nor for long after, susjected to the ...

Vol. 4  p. 326 (Rel. 0.33)

Leith] ST. NINIAN’S CHAPEL 251
the eighty-seventh year of his age, and was able
to transact business until a very short time before
his death. He was succeeded in the baronetcy
by his eldest son, Sir Thomas Gladstone, of Fasque
and Balfour, M.P. for Queenborough and other
places successively in England.
Gladstone Place, near the Links, has been
so named in honour of this family.
From the top of the Sheriff Brae and Mill Lane,
Great Junction Street, a broad and spacious
thoroughfare, extends eastward for the distance of
two thousand feet to the foot of Leith Walk.
Here, on the south side, are the United Presbyterian
church, the neat Methodist chapel, and a
large and handsome edifice erected in 1839 as a
school, and liberally endowed by Dr. Bell, founder
of the Madras system of education, at a cost of
f;IO,OOO.
C H A P T E R X X V I I I ,
NORTH LEITH.
The Chapel and Church of St. NiniaPParish Created-Its Records-Rev. George Wishart-Rev. John Knox-Rev. Dr. Johnston-The Burial-
Ground-New North Leith ChurchlFree Church-Old Grammar SchoolXobourg Street-St. Nicholas Church-The Citadel-Its
Remains-Houses within k--Beach and Sands of North Leith-New Custom How-Shipping Inwards and Outwards.
ON crossing the river we find ourselves in North
Leith, which is thus described by Kincaid in
‘787 :-
“ With regard to North Leith, very little alteration
has taken place here for a century past. It consists
of one street running north-east from the bridge,
six hundred feet long, and about forty in breadth
where broadest. On each side are many narrow
lanesand closes, those on the south side leading
down to the carpenters’ yards by the side of the
river, and those on the north to the gardens belonging
to the inhabitants. From the bridge a
road leads to the citadel, in length 520 feet ; then
IOO feet west, and we enter the remains of the old
fortification, on the top of which a dwelling-house
is now erected. The buiIdings in this place are in
general very mean in their appearance, and inhabited
by peopIe who let rooms during the summer
season to persons who bathe in the salt water.”
One of the leading features of North Leith, when
viewed from any point of view, is the quaint spire
of its.old church, on the west bank of the river,
near the end of the upper drawbridge, abandoned
now to secular purposes, separated from its ancient
burying-ground (which still remains, With its many
tombstones, half sunk amid the long rank grass
of ages), and lifting its withered and storm-worn
outline, as if in deprecation of the squalor by which
it is surrounded, and the neglect and contumely
heaped on its venerable history.
North Leith, which contains the first, or original
docks, and anciently comprehended the citadel
and the chief seat of traffic, was long a congeries
of low, quaint-looking old houses, huddled
into groups or irregular lines, and straddling their
way amid nuisances in back and front, very much
the style of a Spanish or Portuguese town of the
present day; but since 1818 it has undergone great
and renovating changes, and, besides being disenambered
of the citadel and masses of crumbling
houses, it has some streets that may vie with the
second or third thoroughfares of Edinburgh.
As stated in our general history of Leith, Robert
Ballantyne, Abbot of Holyrood, towards the close
of the fifteenth century, built a handsome bridge
of three stone arches over the Water of Leith, to
connect the southern with the northern quarter of
the rising seaport, and so011 after its completion he
erected and endowed near its northern end a chapel,
dedicated to the honour of God, the Virgin Mary,
and St. Ninian, the apostle of Galloway, Having
considerable possessions in Leith, €he abbot a p
pointed two. chaplains to officiate in this chapel,
who were ta receive all the profits accruing from a
house which he had built at the southern end of
this bridge, with A4 yearly out of other tenements
he possessed in South Leith.
In addition to the offerings made in the chapel,
the tolls or duties accruing from this new bridge
were to be employed in its repair and that of the
chapel, but all surplus the charitable abbot ordained
was to be given to the poor; and this charter of
foundation was confirmed by James IV., of gallant
memory, on the 1st of January, 1493. (Maitland.)
This chapel was built with the full consent of
the Chapter of Holyrood, and with the approbation
of William, Archbishop of St Andrews ; and-as a.
dependency of the church of the Holy Crossthe
land whereon it stood is termed the Rudest&
in a charter of Queen Mary, dated 1569. ... ST. NINIAN’S CHAPEL 251 the eighty-seventh year of his age, and was able to transact business until a very ...

Vol. 6  p. 251 (Rel. 0.33)

Greyfriars Church.] DR ERSKINE. 379
I manhood was a sitter in the Old Greyfriars, and his
parents, Mr. and Mrs. Scott,” says an old tutor of
Sir Walter, writing to Lockhart, “ every Sabbath,
when well and at home, attended with their fine
young family of children and their domestic servants-
a sight so amicable and exemplary as
often to excite in my breast a glow of heart-felt
satisfaction.”
In “ Guy Mannering,” Scott introduces this old
church-now, with St. Giles’s, the most interesting
place of worship in the city-and its two most distinguished
incumbents. When Colonel Mannering
came to Edinburgh (where, as we have already
said, Romance and History march curiously side
from all quarters for the first service, a mass of
. blackened ruins. It has since been repaired at
considerable expense, adorned with several beautiful
memorial windows, the triplet one in the
south aisle being to the Scottish historian, George
Buchanan.
Among the ancient tombs within the church
were those of Sir William Oliphant, King‘s Advocate,
who died in 1628 ; and of Sir David Falconer,
of Newton, Lord President of the Court of Session,
who spent the last day of his life seated on the
bench in court.
The antiquity of our Scottish churchyards, and the
care taken of them, greatly impressed Dr. Southey
strangely contrasted with a black wig, without a ‘
grain of powder ; a narrow chest and stooping
posture; hands which, placed like props on each
side of the pulpit, seemed necessary rather to support
the person than to assist the gesticulation of
the preacher ; a gown (not even that of Geneva), a
tumbled band, and a gesture which seemed scarcely
voluntary, were the first circumstances which struck
a stranger.”
Dr. Erskine, previously minister of the New
Greyfriars, was the author of voluminous theological
works, which are known, perhaps, in Scotland
only. After ministering at the Greyfriars for fortyfive
years, he died in January, 1803, and was buried
in the churchyard
Principal Robertson pre-deceased him. He died
in June, 1793, in the seventy-first year of his age,
and was interred in the same burying-ground.
The Old Greyfriars was suddenly destroyed on
the morning of Sunday, 19th January, 1845, by a
fire, and presented to the startled people, assembling
greatest, grandest, and most renowned, who have
lived during a period of three hundred years.
In the year 1562 the Town Council made an
application to Queen Mary to grant them the site
and yards of the Greyfriars Monastery, to form a
a new burial-place, as ‘‘ being somewhat distant
from the town.” Mary, in reply, granted their request
at once, and appointed the Greyfriars yard,
or garden, to be devoted in future to the use specified,
and as St Giles’s Churchyard soon after began
to be abandoned, no doubt interments here would
proceed rapidly ; all the more so that the other
burial-places of the city had become desecrated.
‘‘ Before the Reformation,” says Wilson, “there
were the Blackfriars Kirkyard, where the Surgical
Hospital or old High School now stands ; the
Kirk-of-Field-now occupied by the college,
Trinity College, Holyrood Abbey, St. Roque’s ’
and St. Leonard’s Kirkyards. In all these places
human bones are still found on digging to any
depth.” ... Church.] DR ERSKINE. 379 I manhood was a sitter in the Old Greyfriars, and his parents, Mr. and Mrs. ...

Vol. 4  p. 379 (Rel. 0.32)

CONTENTS. V
CHAPTER XV.
T H E CALTON H I L L .
e .
?AGS
Origin of the Name-Ghbet and Battery them-The Quarry Holes-The Monastery of Greenside Built-The Leper Hospita-The
Tournament Ground and Playfield-Church of Greenside-Burgh of Calton-Rev. Rowlaod Hill-Regent Bridge Built-Obscmtorp
and Asmnomical Insiituticu-Bridewell Built-Hume's TombThe Political Martyrs' Monument-The Jews' Pka of Burial-
Monument of Nelson-National Monument, and those of Stewart. Playfair, and Bums-Thc High School-Foundarion hid- . Architeke and Extent-The 0pening-lnstruct;on-Rec~n of the New SchooCLintel of the Old School-Lard Brougham's
Opinion of the Institution. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . I M
CHAPTER XVI.
THE NEW TOWN.
The Site before the Streets-The Lang Dykes-Wood's Farm-Dmmsheugh House-Bearfd's ParkgTbe Honsg of Easter and Wester
Coates--Gabriel's Road4hig.s Plan of the New Town-John Young builds the Fint House Therein-Extensionof the Town Weatward I I4
CHAPTER XVII.
P R I N C E S STREET,
A Glance at Society-Change of Manners, &c-The Irish Giants-Poole's Coffee-house-Shop of Constable & Co.-Weir's Museum, 1%-
The Grand Duke Nicholas-North British Insurance Life Association-Old Tar Office and New Club-Craig of Riccarton-" The
White Rose of Scotland "-St. John's Chapd-Its Tower and Vaults, &,.-The Smtt Monument and its Muscum-The Statues OP
Professor Wilrion, Allan Ramsay, Adam Bkk, Sir Jam- Sipson, and Dr. Livingstone-The General Improvements in Princes Street C 19
CHAPTER XVIII.
THE CHURCH OF ST. CUTHBERT,
History and Antiquity-Old Views of it Described-First Protestant Incumbents-The Old Manse-Old Communion Cups-Pillaged by
Cmmwell-Ruined by the Siege of 1689, and again in 17qs-Deaths of Messls McVicar and Pitcairn-Early Bdy-suatcheni-Demolition
of the Old Church-Erection of the New- of Heart-burial4ld Tombs and Vaults-The Nisbets of Dean-The Old Poor
House-Kirkbraehead Road--Lothian Road-Dr. Candish's Church-Military Academy-New Caledonian Railway Station. . . 13r
CHAPTER XIX.
GEORGE, S T R E E T .
Major Andrew Fraser-The Father of Miss F e r r i a 4 r a n t of Kilgraston-William Blackwad a d hh Magazine-The Mcdher ol 6 i
Walter Scott-Sir John Hay, Banker-Colquhoun of Killermont-Mn. Mumy of Henderland-The Houw of Sir J. W. Gardon.
Sir James Hall. and Sir John Sinclair of Ulbster-St. Andrew's Church-Scene of the Disruption-Physicians' HalLGlaoce at the
History of the College of Physicians--Sold and Removed-The Commercial Bank-Its Constitution-Assemhly Rooms-Rules of
17+Banquet to Black Watch-"The Author of ' Waverley"'-The Music Hall-"he New Union Bank-Its Formation, &c.-The
Masonic Hall-Watson's Picture of B-Statues of George IV., Pith and C6almer$ . . . . . . . . . . J39
CHAPTER XX.
QUEEN STREET.
The Philosophical Institution-House of Baron &de-New Physickd Hall-Sir James Y. Simpsoo, M.D.-'l%e ITomse of Profcsor
Wilsn-Si John Leslie--Lord Rockville-Si James Grant of Gm-The Hopetoun Roo~m-Edinburgh Educational Inrticucim
forLadies. . , . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .I51
CHAPTER XXI.
THE STREETS CROSSING GEORGE STREET, AND THOSE PARALLEL WITH IT.
Row Street-Miss Bums and Bailie Creech-Sir Egerton high-Robert Pollok-Thiitle Street-The Dispmsav-Hd Street--Coont
d'Alhy-St Andrew Street-Hugo Amot-David, Earl of Buchan-St. David Street-Dad Hume-Sii Waltcr Scott and Basil
Hall-Hanover Street-Sir J. Gnham Dalyell-Offics of Associatim for the Impmmmt of the Poor--FrsdeticL Street--Gnnt d
Corrimony-Castle Street-A Dinner with Si Walter h a - S h o e of Rubiw-Mwey Napier4h.de Street and Charlotte Street . 158 ... V CHAPTER XV. T H E CALTON H I L L . e . ?AGS Origin of the Name-Ghbet and Battery them-The Quarry ...

Vol. 4  p. 387 (Rel. 0.32)

Leith.] THE TOLBOOTH WYND. 1 0
marrow alley adjoining the latter, a house bearing
the date 1688 has the two legends, “Feir the
Lord,” and “The feir of the Lord is the beginning
of a1 wisdome.”
This part of the town-about the foot of St.
Andrew’s Street-is said to have borne anciently
the name of St. Leonard’s. There the Street
diverges into two alleys : one narrow and gloomy,
which bears the imposing title of Parliament Court ;
and the other called Sheephead Wynd, in which
there remains a very ancient edifice, the ground
floor of which is formed of arches constructed like
those of the old house described in the Kirkgate,
and bearing the date 1579, with the initials D. W.,
M. W. Though small and greatly dilapidated, it
is ornamented with string-courses and mouldings ;
and it was not without some traces of old importance
and grandeur amid its decay and degradation,
until it was entirely altered in 1859.
This house is said to have received the local
name of the Gun Stone, from the circumstance of
a stone cannon ball of considerable size having
been fired into it during some invasion by an
English ship of war. Local tradition avers that
for many years this bullet formed an ornament on
the summit of the square projecting staircase of
the house.
Near Cable’s Wynd, which adjoins this alley, and
between it and King Street, at a spot called
Meeting-house Green, are the relics of a building
formerly used as a place of worship, and although
it does not date farther back than the Revolution
.of 1688, it is oddly enough called “John Knox’s
Church.”
The records of South Leith parish bear that in
1692, ‘‘ the magistrates of Edinburgh, and members
of the Presbytery there, with a confused company
of the people, entered the church by breaking open
the locks of the doors and putting on new ones,
and so caused guard the church doors with halberts,
rang the bells, and possessed Mr. Wishart of
the church, against which all irregular proceedings
public protests were taken.”
Previous to this he would seem to have officiated
in a kind of chapel-of-ease established near Cable’s
Wynd, by permission of James VII. in 1687.
Soon after the forcible induction recorded, he
came to the church with a guard of halberdiers,
accompanied by the magistrates of Leith, and took
possession of the Session House, compelling the
“ prelatick Session ” to hold their meeting in the
adjacent Kantore. More unseemly matters followed,
for in December of the year 1692, when a
meeting was held in South Leith Church to hear
any objections that might be niade against the legal
induction of the Rev. Mr. Wishart, an adherent of
Mr. Kay, ‘‘ one of the prelatick incumbents,” protested
loudly against the whole proceedings.
Upon this, “Mr. Livingstone, a brewer at the
Craigend (or Calton), rose up, and, in presence of
the Presbytery, did most violently fall upon the
commissioner, and buffeted him and nipped his
cheeks, and had many base expressions to him.”
Others now fell on the luckless commissioner,
who was ultimately thrust into the Tolbooth of
Leith by a magistrate, for daring to do that which
the Presbytery had suggested. Mr. Kay’s session
were next driven out of the Kantore, on the door
of which another lock was placed.
It has been supposed that the ousted episcopal
incumbent formed his adherents into a small congregation,
as he remained long iu Leith, and died
at his house in the Yardheads there so lately as
November, 1719, in the seventieth year of his age.
His successor, tile Rev. Robert Forbes, was minister
of an episcopal chapel in Leith, according to an
anonymous writer, ‘‘ very shortly after Mr: Kay’s
death, and records a baptism as having been performed
‘ in my room in ye Yardheads.’ ”
The history of the Meeting-house near Cable’s
Wynd is rather obscure, but it seems to have been
generally used as a place of worship. The last
occasion was during a visit of John Wesley, the
great founder of Methodism. He was announced
to preach in it; but so grcat a concourse of people
assembled, that the edifice was incapable of accommodating
them, so he addressed the multitude
on the Meeting-house Green. LI house near it,
says The Srofsinan in 1879, is pointed out as “the
Manse.”
The Tolbooth TVynd is about five hundred an&
fifty feet in length, from where the old signal-tower
stood, at the foot of the Kirkgate, to the site of a
now removed building called Old Babylon, which
stood upon the Shore.
The second old thoroughfare of Leith was undoubtedly
the picturesque Tolbooth Wynd, as the
principal approach to the harbour, after it superseded
the more ancient Burgess Close.
It was down this street that, in the age when
Leith was noted for its dark superstitions and eccentric
inhabitants, the denizens therein, regularly
on stormy nights or those preceding a storm,
heard with horror, at midnight, the thundering
noise of “the twelve o‘clock coach,” a great oatafalque-
looking vehicle, driven by a tall, gaunt figure
without a head, drawn by black horses, also headless,
and supposed to be occupied by a mysterious
female.
Near the eastern end of the wynd there stood
, ... THE TOLBOOTH WYND. 1 0 marrow alley adjoining the latter, a house bearing the date 1688 has the two ...

Vol. 6  p. 227 (Rel. 0.32)

56 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Holyrood.
thirty-two days. He was then brought forth, nude,
in presence of a multitude, who regarded him with
fear and wonder, and to whom he affirmed “that
by the aid of the Blessed Virgin, he could fast as
long as he pleased.”
“ As there appeared to be more simplicity than
guile in his bchaviour, he was released, and. afterwards
went to Rome, where he fasted long enough
to convince Pope Gregory of the miracte. From
Holyrudhous f but the days of its declension an&
destruction were at hand.
The English army which invaded Scotland under
the Earl of Hertford, in 1543-4, barbarously burned
down the temporal edifices of the abbey; and.
among other plunder there were camed off the
brass lectern which has been already described,
and a famous brass font of curious workmanship, ‘
by Sir Richard Lea, knight, captain of English
INTERIOR OF HOLYROOD CHURCH, LOOKING EAST.
Rome he went to Venice, where he received fifty
ducats of gold to convey him to Jerusalem, in performance
of a vow he had made. He returned to
Scotland in the garb of a pilgrim, wearing palmleaves,
and bearing a bag filled with Iarge stones,
which he said were taken out of the pillar to which
the Saviour was bound when he was scourged. He
became a preacher, and in an obscure suburb of
the city perfornied mass before an altar, on which
his daughter, a girl of beauty, stood with wax tapers
around her to represent the Virgin-a double impiety,
which soon brought him under the ridicule
and contempt he deserved.”
In 1532, the “ Diurnal of Occurrents ” records,
there “was made ane great abjuration of the
favouratis of Martene Lutar in the abbey of
Pioneers, who presented it to the Church of St,
Albans, in Hertfordshire, with the following absur&
inscription, which is given in Latin in Camden’s
‘‘ Britannia ”:-
-“When Leith, a town of good account im
Scotland, and Edinburgh, the principal city of that
nation, were on fire, Sir Richard Lea, knyght, saved
me out of the flames, and brought me to England
In gratitude for his kindness, I, who heretofore
served only at the baptism of kings, do now most
willingly render the same service even to the
meanest of the English nation. Lea the conqueror
hath so commanded ! Adieu. The year of man’s
salvation, 1543-4, in the thirty-sixth year of King
Henry VIII.”
Father Hay records that among other things ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Holyrood. thirty-two days. He was then brought forth, nude, in presence of a ...

Vol. 3  p. 56 (Rel. 0.32)

lAth.1 COBOURG STREET. 255
ing is the inscription on the pedestal-‘ This memorial
of David Johnston, D.D., who was for fifty-nine
years minister of North Leith, is erected by a few
private friends in affectionate and grateful remembrance
of his fervent piety, unwearied usefuhess,
and truly Christian charity.’ ”
Two years after he left it, in 1826, the venerable
church of North Leith was finally abandoned to
sedular uses, and “thus,” says the historian of
Leith, ‘‘ the edifice which had, for ’upwards of three
hundred and thirty years, been devoted to the
sacred purposes of religion, is now the unhallowed
repository of peas and barley 1
Therein lie
the remains of Robert Nicoll, perhaps one of the
most precocious poets that Scotland has produced,
and for some time editor of the Leeds Times. He
died in Edinburgh, and was laid here in December,
Several tombstones to ancient mariners stud the
uneven turf. One bearing the nautical instruments
of an early period-the anchor, compasses, log,
Davis’s quadrant and cross-staff, with a grotesque
face and a motto now illegible-is supposed to have
been brought, with many others, from the cemetery
of St. Nicholas, when the citadel was built there by
order of Monk in 1656.
Another rather ornate tomb marks the grave of
some old ship-builder, with a pooped threedecker
having two Scottish ensigns displayed. Above it
is the legend-Trahunter. &as. mmhim, carimz,
and below an inscription of which nothing remains
but “1749 . . aged 59 y . . .”
Another stone bears-“ Here lyeth John Hunton,
who died Decon of the Weivars in North Leith, the
.25.’Ap. 1669.”
This burying-ground was granted by the city ol
Edinburgh, in 1664, as a compensation for that
appropriated by General Monk.
The new church of North Leith stands westward
of the oId in Madeira Street. Its foundation was
laid in March, 1814. It is a rather handsome building,
in a kind of Grecian style of architecture, and
was designed by William Bum, a well-known Edinburgh
architect, in the earlier years of the present
century. The front is 78& feet in breadthand
from the columns to the back wall, it measures
116 feet. It has a spire, deemed fine (though
deficient in taste), 158 feet in height.
The proportions of the fourcolumn portico are
szid by Stark to have been taken from the Ionic
Temple on the Ilyssus, near Athens. It cost aboul
~12,000, and has accommodation for above one
thousand seven hundred sitters. The living is said
to be one of the best in the Church of Scotland.
Its ancient churchyard adjoins it.
r837.
North Leith Free Church stands near it, on the
Queensfeny Road, and was built in 1858-9, from
designs by Campbell Douglas ; it is in the German
Pointed style, with a handsome steeple 160 feet
in height
In 1754, Andrew Moir, a student of divinity,
was usher of the old Grammar School in North
Leith, and in that year he published a pamphlet,
entitled ‘‘ A Letter to the Author of the Ecclesiastic
Characteristics,” charging the divinity students
of the university with impious principles and immoral
practices. This created a great storm at the
time, and the students applied to the Principal
ewdie, who summoned the Senatus, before whom
Andrew Moir was brought on the 25th of April ;9
the same year.
He boldly acknowledged himself author of the
obnoxious pamphlet. At a second meeting, on the
30th April, he acknowledged “that he knew no
students of divinity in the university who held the
principles, or were guilty of the practices ascribed
to some persons in the said printed letter.”
This retractatien he subscribed by his own hand,
in presence of the Principal and Senatus.
The latter taking the whole affair into their
consideration, ‘‘ unanimously found and declared
the said letter to be a scurrilous, false, and malicious
libel, tending, without any ground, to defame
the students of the university ; and, therefore, expeZZea!
and extruded the said Andrew Moir (usher
of the Grammar School of North Leith), author of
the said pamphlet, from this university, and declared
that he is no more to be considered a
student of the same.”
In Cobourg Street, adjoining the old church of
St. Ninian, is North Leith United Presbyterian
Church, while the Free Church of St. Xinian stood
in Dock Street, on a portion of the ground occupied
by the old citadel.
In the former street is a relic of old Leitha
large square stone, representing the carpenters’
arms, within a moulded panel. It ‘bears a threedecked
ship with two flags, at stem and stern.
Above it is the motto-
*‘ God bless fhe curjmters
of No. fiith, wlro hilt thL
Hme, 1715.”
Underneath the ship is the line Trahunter siccas
machimz canhe, said to be misquoted from Horace,
Carm : lib. i 4, where the verse runs :-
‘I Solvitur a& hiems gxata vice veris et Favoni :
Trahuntquc sicraS machim carinas ;
Nec prata canis albicant pruinis.”
Ac neque jam stabuliis gandet pecus, aut aritor igni;
This stone stood originally in the wall of a man ... COBOURG STREET. 255 ing is the inscription on the pedestal-‘ This memorial of David Johnston, D.D., who ...

Vol. 6  p. 255 (Rel. 0.32)

312 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Arthur’s Seat.
to the cone from the base by the way of St. Anthony’s
Well, for a wager, in fifteen minutes, on a hot summer’s
day-a feat in which he was timed by the
eminent naturalist William Smellie.
In 1828 the operations connected with the railway
tunnel, under the brow of the columnar mass
of basalt known as Samson’s Ribs, commenced,
and near to the springs so well known in tradition
as the Wells of Wearie. Close by these wells, and
near a field named Murder Acre, in May the work-
In 1843 the sum 0Cit;40,000 was paid to Thomas
Earl of Haddington, for the surrender of his office
of Hereditary Keeper of the Royal Park, and
thereafter extensive improvements were carried
out under the supervision of the Commissioners for
Woods and Forests. Among these not the least
was the Queen’s Drive, which winds round the
park, passes over a great diversity of ground from
high to low, slope to precipice, terrace to plateau,
and commands a panorama second to none in
DUDDINGSTON CHURCH (EXTERIOR).
men came upon three human skeletons, only three
and a half feet below the surface of the smooth
green turf. As a very large dirk was found near
one of them, they were conjectured to be the remains
of some of Prince Charles‘s soldiers, who had
died in the camp on the hill. The U Wells,” are
the theme of more than one Scottish song, and a
very sweet one runs thus :-
#‘And ye maun gang wi’ me, my winsom Mary Grieve ;
There is nought in the world to fear ye ;
To gang to the Wells 0’ Wearie.
Nor tinge your white brow, my dmrie ;
By the lanesome Wells 0’ Wearie.”
For I have asked your minnie, and she has $en ye leave,
“ Oh, the sun winna blink in your bonnie blue een,
For I will shade a bower wi’ rashes lang and green,
Europe. All the old walls which had intersected
the park in various places, in lots as the Hamilton
family had rented it off for their own behoof, were
swept away at this time, together with the old
powder magazine in the Hause, a curious little
edifice having a square tower like a village church ;
and during these operations there was found at the
base of the craigs one of the most gigantic
boulders ever seen in Scotland. It was blown up
by gunpowder, and, by geologists, was alleged to
have been tom out of the Corstorphine range
during the glacial period.
Among the improvements at this time may be
included the removal, in 1862, and re-erection (in
the northern slope of the craigs) of St. Margaret’s ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Arthur’s Seat. to the cone from the base by the way of St. Anthony’s Well, for a ...

Vol. 4  p. 312 (Rel. 0.32)

374 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Greyfriars Church.
and, forming a part of her volunteer forces, six
battalions of infantry, two of artillery, and a corps
of cavalry.
On the night of the False AZam, on the evening
of the 31st January, 1804, Scotland was studded
with beacons-something on the system ordered by
the twelfthparliament of JamesII. By mistake, that
on Hume Castle was lighted ; other beacons blazed
up in all directions ; the cry was everywhere that
the I;rench had landed! All Scotland rushed to
arms, and before dawn the volunteers were all on
the march, pouring forward to their several rendezvous
; in some instances the Scottish Border
men rode fifty miles to be there, without drawing
bridle, says Scott ; and those of Liddesdale, fearing
to be late at their post, seized every horse they
could find, for a forced march, and then turned
thein loose to make their way home.
When, in 1806, new regulations were issued,
limiting the allowance to volunteers, the First
Edinburgh Regiment remained unaffected by them.
“I wish to remind you,” said the spirited Lieutenant-
Colonel Hope, one day while on parade,
“that we did not take up arms to please any minister,
or set of ministers, but to defend our native
land from foreign and domestic enemies.”
In 1820, when disturbances occurred in .the West
Country, the volunteers garrisoned the Castle, and
offered, if necessary, to co-operate with the forces
in the field, and for that purpose‘remained a whole
night under arms. SOOA after the corps was disbanded,
without thanks or ceremony.
Northward of the hospital, but entering from the
Grassmarket, we find the Heriot brewery, which
we must mention before quitting this quarter, a
being one of those establishments which have long
been famous in Edinburgh, and have made the
ancient trade of a “brewster” one of the mosl
important branches of its local manufacturing in.
dustry.
The old Heriot brewery has been in operation
for considerably over one hundred years, and foi
upwards of forty has been worked by one firm, the
Messrs. J. Jeffrey and Co., whose establishmeni
gives the visitor an adequate idea of the mode in
which a great business of that kind is conducted,
though it is not laid out according to the more
recent idea of brewing, the buildings and work:
having been added to and increased fmm time tc
time, like all institutions that have old and small
beginnings; but notwithstanding all the nurnerou:
mechanical appliances which exist in the diiTeren1
departments of the Heriot brewery, the manu’
services of more than 250 men are required then
daily.
In Gordon’s map of 1647, the old, or last, Greynars
Church is shown with great distinctness, the
,ody of the edifice not as we see it now on the
outh side, but with a square tower of four storeys
.t its western end. The burying ground is of
ts present form and extent, surrounded by pleasant
ows of trees j and north-westward of the church is
species of large circular and ornamental garden
#eat.
Three gates are shown-one to the Candlenaker
Row, where it still is ; another on the south
o the large open field in the south-east angle of the
:ity wall ; and a third-that at the foot of the ROW,
ofty, arched, and ornate, with a flight of steps
zscendiq to it, precisely where, by the vast accumuation
of human clay, a flight of steps goes downward
Over one of these two last entrances, but which
le does not tell us, Monteith, writing in the year
1704, says there used to be the following inscripion
:-
low.
‘‘ Remember, man, as thou goes by :
As thou art now, 50 once was I.
As I am now, so shalt thou be ;
Remember, man, that thou must die (a‘ee).”
The trees referred to were very probably relics
Df the days when the burial-place had been the
Sardens of the Greyfriary in the Grassmarket, at
the foot of the slope, especially as two double rows
of them would seem distinctly to indicate that
they had shaded walks which ran soutli and
north.
Writing of the Greyfriq, Wilson says, we think
correctly :-“ That a church would form a prominent
feature of this royal foundation can hardly be
doubted, and we are inclined to infer that the existence
both of if, and of a churchyard attached to
it, long before Queen Mary’s grant of the gardens
of the monastery for the latter purpose, is implied in
such allusions as the following, in the ‘ Diurnal of
Occurrents,’ July 7th, 157 I. ‘ The haill merchandis,
craftismen, and personis renowned within Edinburgh,
made thair moustaris in the Grey Frear
Kirk Yaird;’ and again, when Birrel, in his diary,
April ~ 6 t h ~ 1598, refers to the ‘work at the Greyfriar
Kirke,’ although the date of the erection of
the more modem church is only 1613.”
In further proof of this idea Scottish history tells
that when, in 1474, the prince royal of Scotland,
(afterwards James IV.) was betrothed, in the second
year of his age, to Cecilia of England, and when on
this basis a treaty of peace between the nations
was concluded, the ratification thereof, and the
betrothal, took place in the church of the Greyfriars,
at Edinburgh, when the Earl of Lindesay ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Greyfriars Church. and, forming a part of her volunteer forces, six battalions of ...

Vol. 4  p. 374 (Rel. 0.32)

Bmghton.]
The new Catholic and Apostolic church, a conspicuous
and spacious edifice, stands north of
all those mentioned at the corner of East London
Street. It was founded in November, 1873, and
opened with much ceremony in April, 1876. It is
in a kind of Norman style, after designs by R.
Anderson, and measures zoo feet long, is 45 feet
in height to the wall-head, and 64 to the apex
EAST LONDON STREET.
of the internal roof. It comprises a nave, chancel,
and baptistry. The nave measures IOO feet in
length, by 45 in breadth; is divided into five
bays, marked externally by buttresses, and has
at each corner a massive square turret surmounted
by a pinnacle rising as high as the 1;dge of the
roof. The chancel measures 614 feet, and communicates
with the nave.
PICARDY VILLAGE AND GAYFIELD HOUSE. (Aft# CkrR of Ekiin.)
CHAPTER XXVI.
THE NORTHERN NEW TOWN.
Picardy Place-Lords Eldm and Craig - Si David Milne-John Abetnumbie-Lard Newton-Commissionex Osbome-St. Paul's Church-
St. George's Chapel-Willii Douglas, Artist-Professor Playfair-General Scott of Bellevue-Drummond P k c d . K. Sharpc of Hoddam
--Lord Robertson-Abercrombic Place and Heriot Row-Miss Femer-House in which H. McKenAe died-Rev. A. Aliin-Great King
Street-% R. Christison--Si W illiam Hamilton-Si William Ab-L-ard Colonsay, &c.
THE northern New Town, of which we now propose
to relate the progress and history, i; separated
from the southern by the undulating and extensive
range of Queen Street Gardens, which occupy a
portion of the slope that shelves down towards the
valley of the Water of Leith.
It is also in a parallelogram extending, from the
quarter we have just been describing, westward to ,
72
the Queensferry Road, and northward to the line
of Fettes Row. It has crescental curves in some
of its main lines, with squares, and is constructed
in a much grander style of architecture than the
original New Town of 1767. Generally, it wqs
begun about 1802, and nearly completed by 1822.
In the eastern part of this parallelogram are Picardy
Place, York Place, Forth and Albany Streets, ... new Catholic and Apostolic church, a conspicuous and spacious edifice, stands north of all those ...

Vol. 3  p. 185 (Rel. 0.31)

136 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [West Church,
and by an assessment on the real property within
the parish; the expense for each inmate in those
days was only A4 IS. 6d. On the demolition of
the old church, its pulpit, which was of oak, of a
very ancient form, and covered with carving, was
placed in the hall of the workhouse. The number
of the inmates in the first year was eighty-four.
The edifice, large and unsightly, was removed, with
the Diorama and several other houses, to make
space for the Caledonian railway, and the poor
of St. Cuthbert’s were conveyed to a more airy and
commodious mansion, on the site of the old farmhouse
of Werter.
When the Act of Parliament in 1767 was obenclosed
by a wall, on which a line of tombs is
now erected.
In the eighteenth century the building of note
nearest to the church of St. Cuthbert, on the opposite
side of the way, now named Iathian Road, was
a tall, narrow, three-storeyed country villa, called,
from its situation at the head of the slope, Kirkbraehead
House. There the way parted from the
straight line of the modern road at the kirk-gate,
forming a delta {the upper base of which was the
line of Princes Street), in which were several cottages
and gardens, long since swept away. A row
of cottages lay along the whole line of what is now
Queensferry Street, under the name of Kirkbraehead.
OLD WEST KIRK, AND WALLS OF THE LITTLE KIRK, 1772. (FmVJ alr Engraving of a Drawing fro?# a Moder.)
tained for extending the royalty of the city ol
Edinburgh, clauses were inserted in it disjoining
a great portion of the ground on which the future
new city was to be built, and annexing it to the
parish of St. Giles, under the condition that the
heritors of the lands should continue liable, as
formerly, for tithes, ministers’ stipends, and A300
annually of poor’s money. Thus the modern
parishes of St Andrew, St. George, S t Mary, and
St. Stephen-all formed since that period-have
been taken from the great area of the ancient
parish of St Cuthbert
No very material alteration was made in the
burying-ground till April, I 787, when the north
side of it, which was bordered by a marsh 2,000
feet in length (to the foot of the mound) by 350
broad-as shown in the maps of that year-was
drained and partially filled with earth. Then the
walls and gates were repaired. The ground at
the east end was raised a few years after, and
The villa referred to was, towards the close of
the century, occupied by Lieutenant-General John
Lord Elphinstone, who was Lieutenant-Governor
of the Castle, with the moderate stipend of
LISO 10s. yearly, and who died in 1794.
At a subsequent period its occupant was a Mr.
John Butler, who figures amocg “ Kay’s Portraits,”
an eccentric character but skilful workman, who
was king’s carpenter for Scotland; he built Gayfield
House and the house of Sir Lawrence Dundas,
now the Royal Bank in St. Andrew Square. He
was proprietor of several tenements in Carmbber’s
Close, then one of the most fashionable portions of
the old town.
The villa of Kirkbraehead had been built by his
father ere the Lothian Road was formed, and concerning
the latter, the following account is given
by Kay’s editor and others.
This road, which leaves the western extremity of
Princes Street at a right angle, and runs southward ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [West Church, and by an assessment on the real property within the parish; the expense ...

Vol. 3  p. 136 (Rel. 0.31)

264 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. frhe Cowgate.
The skinners would seem to have been created
into a corporation in 1474, but references to the
trade occur in the Burgh Records at an earlier
date. Thus, in 1450, there is recorded an obligation
by the skinners, undertaken by William Skynner,
in the name of the whole, to support the
altar of St. Crispin in St. Giles’s Church, “in the
fourth year of the pontificate of Nicholas the Fifth ;”
and a seal of cause was issued to the skinners
and furriers conjointly in 1533, wherein they were
bound to uphold the shrine of St Christopher in
. St. Giles’s, and several Acts of Parliament were
passed for their protection. One, in 1592, prohibits
‘<all transporting and carrying forth the
realm, of calvesskinnes, huddrones, and kidskins,
packing and peilling thereof, in time coming,
tion of “ the goodwill and thankful service done to
us by our servitor, Alexander Crawford, present
deacon of the said cordiners and his brethren.”
We first hear of a kind of ‘‘ strike,” in the trade in
1768, when the cordiners entered into a cornbination
not to work without an increase of wages,
and reduction of hours. The masters prosecuted
their men, many of whom were fined and imprisoned,
for “ entering into an unlawful combination,”
as the sheriff termed their trade union.
Charles I. In 1703, by decree of the Court of
Session, the bow-makers, plumbers, and glaziers,
were added to the masons; and to the wrights
were added the painters, slaters, sieve-wrights, and
coopers. These incorporated trades held their
meetings in St. Mary’s Chapel, Niddry’s Wynd, and
were known as “The United Incorporation of St.
Mary’s Chapel”
In 1476 the websters were incorporated, and
bound to uphold the altar of St. Simon in St
Giles’s, and it was specially stipulated that ‘(the
priest shall get his meat.” Cloth was made in
those days by the weavers much in the same
fashion that is followed in the remote Highland
districts, where the woo1 is carded and spun by the
females of the household j but Edinburgh was one
under the paine of confiscation of the same for His
Majesty’s use.” Edinburgh has always been the
chief seat of the leather trade in Scotland, and the
troops raised after the American War were entirely
supplied with shoes from there.
In 1475 the wrights and masons were granted
the aisleand chapel of St. John in the same church,
when their seal of cause was issued. Their charter
was confirmed in 15 17 by the Archbishop of St.
Andrews. in 1527 by James V., and in 1635 by
THE CHAPEL hND HOSPITAL OF ST. MARY MAGDALENE. (Aflcran EtckiqHlisrlim 1816.) ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. frhe Cowgate. The skinners would seem to have been created into a corporation in 1474, ...

Vol. 4  p. 264 (Rel. 0.31)

xii OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH.
PAGE
The First Trades Maiden Hospital, 1830 . . . 273
TheIndustrialMuseum . , . Tofacrpa,oz 275
Old Mmto House . . . . . . . 276
Chambersstat . . . . . . . 277
Sir James Falshaw, Bart., and H.M. Lieutenant of
Edinburgh . . - . - . . . 285
LadyYester’sChurch, 18x1 . . . . . 288
Carved Stone which was over the Main Entrance to
the High School from 1578 to 1777 . . ’ . 289
TheHighSchoolerectedin 1578 . . - 292
TheSecondHighSchool, 1820. . . . . 296
Dr. Adam . - . . . . . . . 297
TheOldRoyalInfirmary . . - . . . 300
The OldRoyalInfirmary, 18m. . . . . 301
Plan of Arthur’s Seat (the Sanctuary of Holyrd) . 304
TheHolyroodDairy . . . . . . - 305
Clockmill House, 1780 . . . . . . 308
Duddingston Village, from the Queen’s Drive . 309
StMargaret’sWell . . . . - . - 311
DuddingstonChurch (Exterior) . . - . 312
Duddingston Church(1nterior) . . . . 313
Gateway of Duddingston Church, showing the Jougs
andhuping-on-Stone . . . . . 314
Duddingstonhh - . . . . . I 316
Prince Charlie’s House, Duddingston . . . . 317
Ruins of St. Anthony’s Chapel, looking towards Leith 320
The Volunteer Review in the Queen’s Park, 1860
To facc page 3 2 I
St. Anthony’s Chapel in 1 5 4 and 1854 - . . 321
St. AnthonfsWell . - . . . . . 322
Thecharity Workhouse, 1820 - . - . . 324
DarienHouse, 1750 . . . . . . . 325
The Merchant Maiden’s Hospital, Bristo,. ISZO . . 328
Bristo Port, 1820 . . . . - . 329
Clarinda’s House, General’sEntry . . . . 332
1
Room in Clarinda’s House, General’s Entry . .
The Mahogany Land, Potterrow, 1821 . . .
Surgeon’s Hall - . + . . . . .
The Blind Asylum (formerly the house of Dr. Joseph
Black), NicolsonStreet, 1820 - . . .
George Square, showing house (second on the left) of
Sir Walter Scott’s father . . , . -
Park Place, showing Campbell of Succoth’s House .
TheOrganintheMusic-classRoom . . . .
TheMeadows, about 1810. . . . . ,
The Burgh Loch . . . . . . .
The Archers’ Hall . . . . . . .
Archers’ Hall: the Dining Hall. . . . .
Thomas Nelson. . . . . . .
The Edinburgh University Medical School, Lauriston .
George Watson’s Hospital . . . . - .
Bird’s-eye View of the New Royal Infirmary, from the
North-East, 1878 . . . . . -
Reduced Facsimile of a View of Heriot’s Hospital by
GordonofRothiemay . . . . . .
George Heriot . . . , . . , .
Reduced Facsimile of an Old Engraving of Heriot’s
Hospital . . . . . . .
Heriot’s Hospital, from the South-west Tifutepage
The Chapel, Heriot’s Hospital . . . . .
Heriot’s Hospital : the Council Room. , . ,
The North Gateway of Heriot’s Hospital . . .
Heriot’s Hospital, 1779; Porter’s Lodge; Dining
Hall ; Quadrangle, looking North ; Quadrangle,
looking South . . - . . .
A Royal Edinburgh Volunteer . . . . .
The Repentance Stool, from Old Greyfriars Church .
GreyfriarsChurch . . . . . .
Tombs in Greyfriars Churchyard, Edinburgh - .
MonogramofGeorgeHeriot’sName - . . -
’AGE
333
336
337
340
341
344
345
348
349
352
353
356 .
357
360
361
364
365
368
369
369
372
373
376
377
379
3%
381
384 ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. PAGE The First Trades Maiden Hospital, 1830 . . . 273 TheIndustrialMuseum . , . ...

Vol. 4  p. 394 (Rel. 0.31)

REGENT MURRAY’S FUNERAL. 143 St. Giles’s Church.]
Beware of injured Rothwellhaugh !
“ The death-shot parts-the charger springs-
Wild rises tumult’s startling roar !
And Murray’s plumy helmet rings-
Rings on the ground to rise no mare ! ”
When his remains were committed to the tomb in
which they still lie, the thousands who crowded
the church were moved to tears by the burning
eloquence of Knox. “Vpoun the xiiij day of the
moneth of Februar, 1570,” says the “ Diurnal of
Occurrents” “ my lord Regentis corpis, being brocht
in ane bote be sey, frz Stirling to Leith, quhair it
was keipit in Johne Wairdlaw his hous, and thereafter
cary it to the Palace of Holyrudhous, wes
transportit fra the said Palace to the College Kirk
the Regent Murray, the Regent Morton, and his
great rival, John Stewart Earl of Athole, are buried ;
and adjoining the aisle where the sorely mangled
remains of the great Marquis of Montrose were
so royally interred on the 7th of January, 1661.
The Regent’s tomb, now fully restored, stands
on the west side of the south transept, and on
many accounts is an object of peculiar interest.
Erected to the memory of one who played so conspicuous
a part in one of the most momentous
periods of Scottish history, it is well calculated to
interference of the General Assembly, and a riot
ensued.
The portion of the church which contained
these monuments was eftered by a door adjoining
the Parliament Close, and, as it was never shut,
“the gude regent’s aisle,” as it was named,
became a common place for appointments and
loungers. Thus French Paris-Queen Mary’o
servant-in his confession respecting the murder
of King Henry, stated that during the communings
which took place before that dark deed was resolved
on, he one day “took his mantle and sword
and went to prumencr (walk) in the high church.”
Probably in consequence of the veneration entertained
for the memory of the Regent, his tomb
rouse many a stirring association.
All readers of
history know how the Regent
fell under the bullet
of Bothwellhaugh, at Linlithgow,
in avenging the
wrongs inflicted on his
wife, the heiress of Woodhouselee.
As the “Cadyow
Ballad ” has it-
“ ’Mid pennoned spears a stately
Proud Murray’s plumage
Scarce could his trampling
So close the minions crow-
“ From the raised vizor’s shade,
Dark rolling, glanced the
And his steel truncheon waved
Seemed marshalling the iron
“But yet his saddened brow
A passing shade of doubt
Some fiend was whispering in
grove,
floated high ;
charger move,
ded nigh.
his eye,
ranks along ;
on high,
throng,
confessed,
and awe ;
his breast,
~
of Sanctgeill, in this manner; that is to say,
.i‘illiam Kirkaldie of Grange, Knycht, raid fra the
said palace in dule weid, bearing ane pensal!
quherin was contenit ane Reid Lyon; after him
followit Colvill of Cleishe, Maister (of the) Houshold
to the said Regent, with ane quherin was
contenit my lords regentis armes and bage.” The
Earls of Mar, Athole, Glencairn, the Lords
Ruthven, Methven, and Lindsay, the Master of
Graham, and many other nobles, bore the body
through the church to the grave, where it “was
JOHN KNOX’S PULPIT, ST. GILES’S.
(From tk Scottish Anfaquarinn Museum).
buryit in Sanct Anthonie’s
yle.” On the front of the
restored tomb is the ancient
brass plate, bearing
an inscription composed
by George Buchanan :-
’( Iur060 Stuvarto, Mwm’e Cornifi,
Scotie Prwqi;
Vim, a t a t i s szw, longe opt*
mo : a6 inirnik,
0mni.- rnemorie deterrimis, ex
insdiis exfindo,
Ceu pafn‘ commwni, pafna
mcprens $omit.’’
Opposite, on the north side
of the west transept, was
the tomb in which the Earl
of Athole, Chancellor of
Scotland, who died suddenly
at Stirling, not without
suspicion of poison,
was interred with great
solemnity on the 4th of
July, 1579. A cross was
used on this occasion, and
as flambeaux were borne,
according to Calderwood,
the funeral probably occurred
at night ; these paraphernalia
led to the usual ... MURRAY’S FUNERAL. 143 St. Giles’s Church.] Beware of injured Rothwellhaugh ! “ The death-shot parts-the ...

Vol. 1  p. 143 (Rel. 0.31)

During the great plague of 1568 a huge pit,
wherein to bury the victims, was ordered to be dug
in the ‘‘ Greyfriars KirRyaird,’’ as Maitland records,
thus again indicating the existence of a church here
long anterior to the erection of the present one.
Here, about eight in the evening of the 2nd June,
1581,was brought from the scaffold, whereon it had
lain for four hours, covered by an old cloak, the headless
body of James Douglas, Earl of Morton, n-ho
GRRYYFBIARS CHURCH.
In this city of the dead have been interred so
vast a number of men of eminence that the mere
enumeration of their names would make a volume,
and we can but select a few. Here lie thirty-seven
chief magistrates of the city j twenty-three principals
and professors of the university, many of them
of more than European celebrity ; thirty-three of
the most distinguished lawyers of their day-one
a Vice Chancellor of Engknd and Master of the
the murder of King Henry. It was borne by
common porters, and interred in the place there set
apart for criminals, most probably where now the
Martyrs’ Monument stands. Xone of his friends
dared follow it to the grave, or show their affection
or respect to the deceased Earl by any sign of
outward griet
In 1587 the king having ordered a general
weapon-shawing, the Council, on the 15th July, ordained
by proclamation a muster of the citizens in
the Greyfriars Kirkyard, ‘‘ boddin in feir ofweir, and
arrayet in their best armour, to witt, either pike
or speer, and the armour effeuand thairto, or with
hakbuts and the armour effeirand thairto, and nocht
with halbarts or Jedburgh staffes.”
the Court of Chancery; six Lords President of the
Supreme Court of Scotland ; twenty-two senators
of the College of Justice, anda host of men distinguished
for the splendour of their genius, piety, and
worth.
Here too lie, in unrecorded thousands, citizens
of more humble position, dust piled over dust, till
the soil of the burial-place is now high above the
level of the adjacent Candlemaker Row-the dust
of those who lived and breathed, and walked OUT
streets in days gone by, when as yet Edinburgh was
confined in the narrower limits of the Old Town.
“The graves are so crowded on each other,”
says Amot, writing in 1779, ‘‘ that the sextons fiequently
cannot avoid in opening a npe grave ... the great plague of 1568 a huge pit, wherein to bury the victims, was ordered to be dug in the ‘‘ ...

Vol. 4  p. 380 (Rel. 0.31)

head,” and without the aid of which he could perform
nothing, was cast in also, and it was remarked
by the spectators that it gave extraordinary twistings
and dthings, and was as long in burning as
the major himself. The place where he perished
was at Greenside, on the sloping bank, whereon,
in 1846, was erected the new church, so called.
If this man was not mad, he certainly was a
singular paradox in human nature, and one of a
TRINITY CHURCH AND HOSPITAL, AND NEIGHBOURHOOD. (From Curdon of Rothiemas Map.)
57, Halkerston’s Wynd ; 58, Leith Wynd ; 6. St. Ringan’s Suburbs, or the Beggar Row ; 27, the North Craigs, or h’eil‘s Craigs ; 24, the
Correction House ; p, the Colh qe Kirk ; i, Trinity Hospital j i, Leith Wynd Port ; s. St. Paul’s Work.
ing to the Tolbooth from Greenside, she would not
believe that her brother had been burned till toldthat
it had perished too ; “ whereupon, notwithstanding
her age, she nimbly, and in a furious rage, fell upon
her knees, uttering words horrible to be remembered.”
She assured her hearers that her mother
had been a witch, and that when the mark of a
horse-shoe-a mark which she herself displayedcame
on the forehead of the old woman, she could
kind somewhat uncommon-outwardly he exhibited tell of events then happening at any distance, and
the highest strain of moral sentiment for years, and to her ravings in the Tolbooth must some of the
duringall that time had been secretly addicted to
every degrading propensity ; till evenhially, unable
to endure longer the sense of secret guilt and
hypocrisy, With the terrors of sickness and age
upon him, and death seeming nezr, he made a
confession which some at first believed, and on
that confession alone was sentenced to die.
If Weir was not mad, the ideas and confessions
of his sister show that she undoubtedly was. She
evidently believed that her brothefs stick was
one possessed of no ordinav power. Professor
Sinclair tells us, that on one of the ministers returndarkest
traditions of the West Bow be assigned.
She confessed that she was a sorceress, and
among other incredible things, said that many years
before a fiery chariot, unseen by others, came to
her brother’s house in open day j a stranger invited
them to enter, and they proceeded to Dalkeith.
While on the road another stranger came, and
whispered something in the ear of her brother, who
became visibly affected ; and this intelligence was
tidings of the defeat of the Scottisl army, that very
day, at Worcester. She stated, tow, that a dweller
in Dalkeith had a familiar spirit, who span for her ... and without the aid of which he could perform nothing, was cast in also, and it was remarked by the ...

Vol. 2  p. 312 (Rel. 0.31)

West Churqh. SIR HENRY WELLWOOD MONCRIEFF. I35
and gloomy vault ; “a memorial alike of the demolished
fane and the extinct race,” says Wilson
in 1847. “When we last saw it the old oak
door was broken in, and the stair that led down
. to the chamber of fhe dead was choked up with
rank nettles and hemlock-the fittest monument
that could be devised for the old barons of Dean,
the last of them now gathered to his fathers.”
One of the most interesting tombs here is that
of Thomas de Quincey, the eccentric “English
opium-eater,” who was the friend of Prqfessor
Wilson, and died at Edinburgh on the 8th of
December, 1859. It is reached by taking the first
pathway upward to the right at the Lothian Road
entrance.
On one of the south walls here, where for more
than fifty years it hung unnoticed and forgotten,
is a piece of monumental sculpture, by Flaxman,
of very rare beauty-a square architectural mural
monument, of a mixed Roman and Grecian style,
of white and black marble, which was erected to
commemorate the death of three infant children.
Two families-the Watsons of Muirhouse, and
the Rocheids of Inverleith-retained the right
of burial within the new church, under the steeple,
which is 170 feet in height. Its bell, which is
inscribed “George Watt fecit, St. Ninian’s Row,
Edin : 1791,” was hung in that year.
In the west lobby of the church a handsome
tablet bears the following inscription, removed, probably,
from the older edifice :-“ Here lyes the
corpse of the Honble. Sir James Rocheid of Inverkith,
who died the 1st day of May, 1737, in the
7 1st year of his age.”
The last incumbent of the ancient church, Mr.
Stewart, having died in April, 1775, was succeeded
by the famous Sir Henry Wellwood Moncrieff, D.D.,
who for more than half a century was one of the
greatest ornaments of the Scottish Church.
At St. Cuthbert’s he soon became distinguished
for his devoted zeal and fidelity in the discharge of
his ministerial duties, for the mildness and benevolence
of his disposition, for his genius, eloquence,
and great personal worth. He soon became the
leader of the Evangelical section of the church,
and in 1785 was unanimously chosen Moderator
of the General Assembly. He was appointed
collector of the fund for the widows and children
of the clergy, and filled that important situation
till his death, and received annually the thanks
of the Assembly for forty-three years. He was
author of several sermons, and the funeral oration
preached at his death by Dr. Andrew Thomson, 01
St. George’s, was long remembered for its power
pathos, and tenderness. He died in 1827 of a
lingering illness, in the 78th year of his age and
57th of his ministry.
In its greatest length, quoad civiZia, in 1835, the
parish measured upwards of five miles, and in its
yeatest breadth three and a half. But in 1834
territories were detached from it and formed into
ihe quoad sacra parishes of Buccleuch, St. Bemard‘s,
Newington, and Roxburgh. It was partly landward
and partly town ; but, as regards population,
is chiefly the latter now. Each of its two ministers
has a manse.
Before quitting the church of St. Cuthbert a
reference must be made to its old poor-house, a
plain but lofty edifice, with two projecting wings
:standing on the south side of what was latterly
:alled Riding School Lane), and now removed.
At an early period a tax of LIOO sterling hac
been laid on the parish to preclude begging, “ and
maintain those who had been ‘accustomed to live
3n the charity of others.” In 1739, at a meeting
3f heritow and the Session, the former protested
against the levy of this old impost, on the plea
“that the poor’s funds were sufficient to maintain
the poor in the landward part of the parish, with
whom only the heritors were concerned ; while the
poor living in Pleasance, Potter Row, Bristo, West
Port, &c., fell to be maintained by the town in
whose suburbs they were.”
The assessment was thus abandoned, and an
ancient practice was resorted to : the mendicant
poor were furnished with metal badges, entitling
them to solicit alms within the parish. The
number furnished with this unenviable distinction
amounted to fifty-eight in 1744, and the number
of enroIled poor to 220, for whose support A200
sterling were expended. In 1754 the Kirk Session
presented a nikmorial to the magistrates, craving a
moiety of the duty levied on ale for the support of
their poor, whereupon a wing was added to the
city workhouse for the reception of St. Cuthbert’s
mendicants.
In June 1759 a subscription was opened for
building a workhouse in the West Kirk. parish j
the money obtained amounted to A553 sterling
for the house, and A196 8s. of annual subscrip
tions for the support of its inmates-a small proof
that the incubus or inertia which had so long
affected Edinburgh was now passing away ; and the
building was commenced on the south side of a
tortuous lane, St. Cuthbert’s, that then ran between
hedgerows from opposite the churchyard
gate towards the place named the Grove. It was
completed by the year 1761, at a cost of about
L1,565 sterling. The expenses of the house were
defrayed partlv hv collections at the church doors ... Churqh. SIR HENRY WELLWOOD MONCRIEFF. I35 and gloomy vault ; “a memorial alike of the demolished fane and ...

Vol. 3  p. 135 (Rel. 0.31)

’ klth] KING JAMES V1.5 HOSPITAL 217
Barker, whose office ceased to exist after the Burgh
Reform Bill of 1833.
The seal of the preceptory is preserved in the
Antiquarian Museum. It bears the figure of St.
Anthonyina hermit’s garb, with a book in one
hand, a staff in the other, and by his side is a sow
with a bell at its neck. Over his head is a capital
T, which the brethren had sewn in blue cloth on
their black tunics. Around is the legend,
S. Cornmum PreceptoriC Sancfi Anthunii, Propc L&cht.
there when the ground was opened to lay down
gas-pipes; and in the title deeds of a property
here, “ the churchyard of St. Anthony ” is mentioned
as one of the boundaries.
The grotesque association of St. Anthony with a
sow is because the latter was supposed to represent
gluttony, which the saint is said to have overcome ;
and the further to conquer Satan, a consecrated
bell is suspended from his alleged ally the pig.
On the east side of the Kirkgate stood King
ST. MARY’S (SOUTH LEITH) CHURCH, 1820. (After .Ytme+.)
Sir David Lindesay of the Mount refers in his
vigorous way to
“The gruntil of St. Anthony’s sow,
There was an aisle, with an altar therein, dedicated
to him in the parish church of St. Giles; and among
the jewels of James 111. is enumerated “Sanct
Antonis cors,” with a diamond, a ruby, and a great
pearl,
Save the fragments of some old vaults, not a
vestige of the preceptory now remains, though its
name is still preserved in St. Anthony’s Street,
which opens westward off the Kirkgate, and is sup
posed to pass through what was its cemetery, as
large quantities of human bones were exhumed
Quhilk bore his holy bell.”
124
James’s Hospital, built in 1614 by the sixth monarch
of that name, and the site of which now forms
part of the present burying-ground. At the southeast
angle of the old churchyard, says Wilson, there
is an ‘‘ elegant Gothic pediment surmounting the
boundary wall and adorned with the Scottish regalia,
sculptured in high relief with the initials
J. R. 6., while a large panel below bears the
royal arms and initials of Charles 11. very boldly
executed. These insignia of royalty are intended
to mark the spot on which KiEg James’s Hospital
stood-a benevolent foundation which owed no
more to the royal patron whose name it bore than
the confirmation by his charter in 1614 of a portion
of those revenues which had been long before ... klth] KING JAMES V1.5 HOSPITAL 217 Barker, whose office ceased to exist after the Burgh Reform Bill of ...

Vol. 6  p. 217 (Rel. 0.31)

CONTENTS. vii
. CHAPTER XXXI.
PAGE ALLEYS OF THE HIGH STREET (continued).
Blackfriars Wynd-The Grant of Alexander 11.-Bothwell slays Si Williiam Stewar-Escape of Archbishop Sharpe-Cameronian Meetinghouse-
The House of the Regent Morton-Catholic Chapels of the Eighteenth Century-Bishop Hay-"No Popery" Riots-
Baron Smith's Chapel-Scottish Episcopalians-House of the Prince of Orkney- Magnificence of Earl Wdliam Sinclair-Cfudinnl
Beaton's House-The Cardinal's Armorial Bearings-Historical Assw$arions of his House-Its Ultimate Occupants-The United
IndusWSchool . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 . 258
CHAPTER XXXII.
ALLEYS OF THE HIGH STREET (continued).
Toddrick's Wynd-Banquet to the Danish Ambassador and Nobles-Lord Leven's House in Skinner's Close-The Fim Mint Houses-
The Mint-Scottish Coin-Mode of its Manufacture-Argyle's Lodging-Dr. Cullen-Elphinstone's Court--Lords Laughborough and
Stonefield-Lard Selkirk-Dr. Rutherford, the Inventor of Gas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 266
CHAPTER XXXIII.
ALLEYS OF THE HIGH STREET (concluded).
The House of the Earls of Hyndford-The l'hree Rornps'of Monreith-Anne, Conntess of Balcarris-South Foulid Qosc-The "Endnrylie's
Well"-Fountain Close-The House of Bailie Fullerton-Purchase of Property for the Royal College of Physicians-New
Episcopal Chapel-Tweeddale Close-The House of the Marquis of Tweeddale-Kise of the British Linen Compmy-The Mysterious
Murder of Begbie-The World's End Close-The Stanfield Tragedy-Titled Raidenters in Old Town C h e s . . . . . . 274
CHAPTER XXXIV.
NEW STREETS WITHIN THE AREA OF THE FLODDEN WALL.
Lord Cockburn Street-Lord Cockhnrn-The Scobman Newspaper-Charles Mackren and Alexander Kussel-The Queen's Edinburgh
Rifle Brigade-St. Giles Street-Sketch of the Rise of Journalism in Edinburgh-The Edidurgk Couramt-The Dai& Review-
Jeffrey Street-New Trinity College Church . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 282
CHAPTER XXXV.
NEW STREETS WITHIN THE AREA OF THE FLODDEN WALL (ctmcluded).
Victoria Street and Terrace-The I n d i Buildings-Mechanics' Subscription Libraq-Gwrge IV. Bridge-St. Augustine's Church-Martyrs'
Church-Chamber of the Hqhlandaud Apicnltural Sodety--SheriffCourt Bddbgs a d sohitors' Hall-Johnstone Terace-St. John's
Free Church-The Church of Scotland Training Ihllege . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 291
CHAPTER XXXVI.
ST. MARY'S WYND.
St. Mary's Wynd and Street-Sir David Annand-St. Mary's Cisterdan Conrentand Hospital-Bothwell's Brawl in I+-T?I~ Caagate Port-
Rag Fair-The Ladies of Traquair-Ramsay's "White Horsc '' Inn-Pasqnale de Paoli-Ramsay Retires with a Fortune-Boyd's
'' White Horse" Inn-Patronised by Dr. Johnson-Improvements in the Wynd-Catholic Institute-The Oldest Doorhead in the City 297
CHAPTER XXXVII.
LEITH WYND.
Leith Wynd-Our Lady's Hospital-Paul's Work-The Wall of 1540-ItO Fall in 1854-The "Happy Land"-Mary of Gueldns-Trinity
College Church-Some Particulars of its Charter-Interior View-Decorations-Enlargement of the Establishment-Privileges of
its Ancient Officers-The Duchess of Lennox-Lady Jane Hamilton-Curious Remains-Trinity Hospital-Sir Simon Preston's
" Public Spirit "-Become a Corporation Charity-Description of Buildings-Provision for the Inmates--Lord Cockburn's Female
Pdon-Demolition of the Hospital-Other Charities . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 300
CHAPTER XXXVJII.
T H E W E S T B O W .
%e West Bow-Quaint Ciaracter of its Houses-Its Modern Aspact-Houses of the Tunplar Knighrs-The Bowfoot Well-The Bow
Port-The Bow-head-Major Weir's Land-History of Major Thomas WeL-Personal Appearance-His Powdd Prayers-The 'I Holy
Sisters "-The Bowhead Saints-Weir's Reputed Compact with the Devil-Sick-bed Confession-ht-Search of his House--Prison
Confession-Trial of Him and His Sister Grizel-Execution-What was Weir ?-His Sister undoubtedly Mad-Terrible Reputation of
the Houw-Untenanted for upwards of a Century-Patullo's Experience of a Cheap Lodging-Weir's Land Improd Out of Existence
-Hall of the Knights of St. John-A Mysterious House-Samerville Mmsion-The Assembly Rooms--Opposed by the Bigotry of
the Times-The LPdy-Directress-Curioua Regulations . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .309 ... vii . CHAPTER XXXI. PAGE ALLEYS OF THE HIGH STREET (continued). Blackfriars Wynd-The Grant of ...

Vol. 2  p. 389 (Rel. 0.31)

Greyfriars Church.] SCOTT’S FIRST LOVE AFFAIR. ’ 383
son, buried respectively I 7 67 and I 8 I 7, Alexander
Monro $rimus, the great anatomist, and Alexander
Monro secwidm, who in 1756 was admitted joint
Professor of Anatomy and Surgery with his distinguished
father.
In the same ground, in 1799, were laid Professor
Joseph Black, the great chemist ; Dr. Hugh Blair, in
1800 ; Henry Mackenzie, “ the Man of Feeling,” in
1831 ; Alexander Tytler, another distinguished
Zittivatear; John Kay, the caricaturist, in 1826 ;
and Dr. McCrie, the well-known biographer of John
Knox.
The monument to Dr. Hugh Hair was erected
in 1817, and is placed on the south side of the
church, in the same compartment with that of Professor
MacLaurin. Thus, one of the most eminent
philosophers and one of the most distinguished
preachers that Scotland has produced are commemorated
side by side.
On the eastern gable of the Old Greyfriars
Church, a grim, repellent, and remarkable monument
catches the eye. In the centre is sculptured
a skeleton, festooned around with surgical implements,
but the inscription is nearly obliterated by
time and the fire of the church, yet it is always an
object of much curiosity.
It marks the grave of James Borthwick, whose
portrait is the oldest now hanging in the Hall of
the Royal College of Surgeons, the incorporation
of which he entered in 1645 ; he was a cadet of
the House of Crookston, and nearly related to
Lord Borthwick, who defended his castle of that
name against Oliver Cromwell after the battle
of Dunbar. He acquired the estate of Stow, in
which he was succeeded by his son James, who
erected this hideously grotesque memorial to his
memory.
Another monument of a different kind, in the
form of a brass plate inserted into a stone, on the
western wall of the church, bore some fine elegiac
verses to the memory of Francisca, daughter of
‘< Alexander Swinton, advocate ; who died . . . . .
aged 7 years.”
But these verses were quite obliterated by 1816.
They ran thus :-
“ The sweetest children, like these transient flowers,
Which please the fancy for a few short hours,-
Lovely at morning, see them burst in birth,
At evening withered-scattered on the earth,
Their stay, their place, shall never more be known,
Save traits enpven on those hearts alone
That fostered these frail buds while here beneath ;
Yes, these shall triumph o’er the powers of death,
Shall spring eternal in the parent’s mind
Till hence transplanted to a realm refined.”
Northward of the two churches stands the tomb
and grave of Duncan Ban Maclntyre, commonly
known in the Highlands as Donnachan ban nun
Oran, who died in the year 1812, and who, though
he fought at Falkirk, outlived all the bards and
nearly all the warriors associated in the Highland
heart with the last chivalrous struggle for the House
of Stuart.
A handsome monument marks the place where
his ashes lie. Though little known in the Lowlands,
Duncan is deemed one of the-sweetest of
the Gaelic poets, and was so humble in his wants
that he had no higher ambition than to become a
soldier in the old City Guard.
The burial-place of Sir Walter Scott’s family lies
on the west side of the ground. “ Our family,” he
wrote, “heretofore (Dec., 1819) buried close by the
entrance to Heriot’s Hospital, on the southern or
left-hand. side as you pass from the churchyard.”
Here the father, Walter Scott, W.S., and several of
his children who died in the old house in the College
Wynd, are interred. Mrs. Scott, her sisters,
and her brother, Dr. Rutherford, are interred in
the burial-ground attached to St. John’s Church, at
the west end of Princes Street. Sir Walter purchased
a piece of ground there, “moved by its
extreme seclusion, privacy, and security; for,” as
he wrote to brother Thomas, who was paymaster
of the 70th Foot, conveying an account of their
mother‘s death, “when poor Jack (their brother)
was buried in the Greyfriars Churchyard, where my
father and Anne (their sister) lie, I thought their
graves more encroached upon than I liked to
witness.”
The Greyfriars Churchyard is, curiously enough,
noted as being the scene of Scott’s first love affair
with a handsome young woman. Lockhart tells us
that their acquaintance began in that place of
dreary associations, “ when the rain was beginning
to fall one Sunday, as the congregation were dispersing.
Scott happened to offer his umbrella, and
the tender being accepted, so escorted her to her
residence, which proved to be at no great distance
from his own. I have neither the power nor the
wish,” adds his biographer, ‘‘ to give in detail the
sequel to this story. It is sufficient to szy that
after he had through several long years nodrished
the dream of an ultimate union with this lady-
Margaret, daughter of Sir John and Lady Jane
Stewart Belshes of Invermay-his hopes terminated
in her being married to the late Sir William Forbes,
Bart., of Pitsligo.”
In December, 1879, there were interred in the
Greyfriars Churchyard, under the direction of the
city authorities, the great quantity of human bones ... Church.] SCOTT’S FIRST LOVE AFFAIR. ’ 383 son, buried respectively I 7 67 and I 8 I 7, Alexander Monro ...

Vol. 4  p. 383 (Rel. 0.31)

241 CoWgab.1 THE EPISCOPAL CHAPEL.
to preach openly, by taking the oaths to Govemment,
had been founded in Edinburgh by Baron
Smith, and two smaller ones were founded about
1746, in Skinner‘s and Carrubber’s Closes; but as
these places were only mean and inconvenient
apartments, a plan was formed for the erection of
a large and handsome church. The Episcopalians
of the city chose a committee of twelve gentlemen
to see the scheme executed. They purchased from
the Royal College of Physicians the area of what
had formerly been the Tweeddale gardens, and
opened a subscription, which was the only resource
they had for completing the building, the
trifling funds belonging to the former obscure
chapels bearing no proportion to the cost of so
expensive a work. But this impediment was removed
by the gentlemen of the committee, who
generously gave their personal credit to a considerable
amount.
The foundation stone was laid on the 3rd of
April, 1771, by the Grand Master Mason, Lieutenant-
General Sir Adolphus Oughton, K.B.,
Colonel of the 31st Foot, and Commander of the
Forces in Scotland. The usual coins were deposited
in the stone, under a plate, inscribed thus :-
EDIFICII SAC. ECCLESIW EPISC. ANGLIB,
PRIMIlM POSUIT LAPIDEY,
I. ADOLPHUS OUGHTON,
CURIO MAXIMUS,
MILITUM PRWFECTUS,
REONANTE GEORGIO 111.
TERTIO APR. DIE,
A.D. MDCCLXXI.
IN ARCHITECTONICA storm RFPUB.
Towards this church the Writers to the Signet
subscribed zoo guineas, and the Incorporation
of Surgeons gave 40 guineas, and on Sunday, the
9th of October, 1774, divine service was performed
in it for the first time. “This is a plain,
handsome building,” says Arnot, “ neatly fitted up
in the inside somewhat in the form of the church
of St. Martin’s-in-the-Fields, London. It is 90
feet long by 75 broad pver the walls, and is omamented
with a neat spire of a tolerable height. In
the spire hangs an excellent bell, formerly belonging
to the Chapel Royal at Holyrood, which is
permitted to be rung for assembling the congregation,
an indulgence that is not allowed to the
Presbyterians in England. This displays a commendable
liberality of sentiment in the magistrates
of Edinburgh ; but breathes no jealousy for the
dignity of their national Church. In the chapel
there is a fine organ, made by Snetzler.of London.
In the east side is a niche of 30 feet, with a
Venetian window, where stands the altar, which is
adorned with paintings by Runciman, a native of
Edinburgh. In the volta is the Ascefision; over
the small window on the right is Christ talking
with the Samaritan woman ; on the left the Prodigal
returned. In these two the figures are halflength.
On one side of the table is the figure of
Moses ; on the other that of Elias.”
At the time Arnot wrote L6,Soo had been spent
on the building, which was then incomplete. “ The
ground,” he adds, ‘‘ is low ; the chapel is concealed
by adjacent buildinis ; the access for carriages inconvenient,
and there is this singularityattending it,
that it is the only Christian church standing north
and south we ever saw or heard of. . . . . . . . . There are about I,ooo persons in this
congregation. Divine service is celebrated before
them according to all the rites of the Church of
England. This deserves to be considered as a
mark of increasing moderation and liberality among
the generality of the people. Not many years ago
that form of worship in all its ceremonies would
not have been tolerated The organ and paintings
would have been downright idolatry, and the
chapel would have fallen a sacrifice to the fury of
the mob.”
Upon the death of Mr. Can; the first senior
clergyman of this chapel, he was interred under its
portico, and the funeral service was sung, the voices
of the congregation being accompanied by the
organ. In Arnot’s time the senior clergyman was
Dr. Myles Cooper, Principal of New York College,
an exile from America in consequence of the revolt
of the colonies.
In the middle’of February, 1788, accounts
reached Scotland of the death and funeral of Prince
Charles Edward, the eldest grandson of James VII.,
at Rome, and created a profound sensation among
people of all creeds, and the papers teemed with
descriptions of the burial service at Frascati ; how
his brother, the Cardinal, wept, and his voice broke
when singing the office for the dead prince, on
whose coffin lay the diamond George and collar of
the Garter, now in Edinburgh Castle, while the
militia of Frascati stood around as a guard, with
the Master of Nairn, in whose arms the prince
expired.
In the subsequent April the Episcopal College
met ’at Aberdeen, and unanimously resolved that
they should submit “ to the present Government of
this kingdom as invested in his present Majesty
George III.,” death having broken the tie which
bound them to the House of Stuart. Thenceforward
the royal family was prayed for in all their
churches, and the penal statutes, after various
modifications, were repezled in 1792. Eight years
afterwards the Rev. Archibald Alison (father of ... CoWgab.1 THE EPISCOPAL CHAPEL. to preach openly, by taking the oaths to Govemment, had been founded in ...

Vol. 4  p. 247 (Rel. 0.31)

322 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. lcolinton.
the Belitice Puetaruni Scuiurum. He was a convert
to the Protestant religion, and the chief work of
his pen is his learned book on feudal law. It has
been well said that lie U kept himself apart from the
political intrigues of those distracting times, devoting
himself to his professional duties, and in his
hours of relaxation cultivating a taste for classical
literature.”
He was present at the entry of King James into
London, and at his coronation as King of England,
an event which he commemorated in a poem in
Latin hexameters. In 1604 he was one of the
commissioners appointed by the king to confer
with others on the part of England, concerning
a probable union between the two countries, a
favourite project with James, but somewhat Utopian
when broached at a time when men were living
who had fought on the field of Pinkie.
He wrote a treatise on the independent
sovereignty .of Scotland, which was published in
1675, long after his death, which occurred at Edinburgh
on the 26th of February, 1Go8. He married
Helen, daughter of Heriot of Trabrown, in East
Lothian, by whom he had seven children. His
eldest son, Sir Lewis Craig, born in 1569, became
a senator, as Lord Wrightislands
On the death of his lineal descendant in 1823,
Robert Craig of Riccarton (of whom mention was
made in our chapter on Princes Street in the
second volume of this work), James Gibson, W.S.
(afterwards Sir James Gibson-Craig of Riccarton
and Ingliston), assumed the name and arms of
Craig in virtue of a deed of entail made in 1818.
He was a descendant of the Gibsons of Durie, in
Fife.
His eldest son was the late well-known Sir
William Gibson-Craig, who was born and August,
1797, and, after receiving his education in Edinburgh,
was called as, an advocate to the Scottish
Bar in 1820. He was M.P. for Midlothian from
1837 to 1841, when he was returned for the city of
Edinburgh, which he continued to represent till
1852. He was a Lord of the Treasury from 1846
to 1852, and was appointed one of the Board
of Supervision for the Poor in Scotland. In 1854
he was appointed Lord Clerk Register of Her
Majesty’s Rolls and Registers in Scotland in 1862,
and Keeper of the Signet. He was a member of
the Privy Council in 1863, and died in 1878.
Riccarton House, a handsome modern villa of
considerable size, has now replaced the old
mansion of other times.
CHAPTER XXXVIII.
THE ENVIRONS OF EDINBURGH (cmtinzted).
Colinton-Ancient Name and Church-Redhall-The Family of Foulis-Dreghorn-The Pentlands-View from Torphin-Corniston-Slateford
-Graysmill-Liherton-The Mill at Nether Libertan-Liberton Tower-The Church-The Balm Well of St. Kathrrine-Grace Mount-
The Wauchopes of Niddrie-Niddrie House-St. Katherine’s-The Kaimes-Mr. Clement Little-Lady Little of Liberton.
THE picturesque little parish village of Colinton,
about a mile and a quarter from Kingsknowe
Station, on the Caledonian Railway, is romantically
situated in a deep and wooded dell, through which
the Water of Leith winds on its way to the Firth
of Forth, and around it are many beautiful walks
and bits of sweet sylvan scenery. The lands here
are in the highest state of cultivation, enclosed by
ancient hedgerows tufted with green coppice, and
even on the acclivities of the Pentland range, at
the height of 700 feet above the sea, have been
rendered most profitably arable.
In the wooded vale the Water of Leith turns
the wheels of innumerable quaint old water-mills,
and through the lesser dells, the Murray, the Braid,
and the Burdiehouse Burns, enrich the parish with
their streams.
Of old the parish was called Hailes, from the
plural, it is said, of a Celtic word, which signifies a
mound or hillock. A gentleman’s residence near
the site of the old church still retains the name,
which is also bestowed upon a well-known quarry
and two other places in the parish. The new
Statistical Account states that the name of Hailes
was that of the principal family in the parish, which
was so called in compliment to them’; but this
seems barely probable.
The little church-which dates from only 1771-
and its surrounding churchyard, are finely situated
on a sloping eminence at the bottom of a dell,
round which the river winds slowly by.
The ancient church of Hailes, or Colinton, was
granted to Dunfermline Abbey by Ethelred, son of
Malcolm Canmore and of St. Margaret, a gift confirmed
by a royal charter of David I., and by a Bull
of Pope Gregory in 1234, according to the abovequoted
authority ; but the parish figures so little in
history that we hear nothing of it again till 1650, ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. lcolinton. the Belitice Puetaruni Scuiurum. He was a convert to the Protestant ...

Vol. 6  p. 322 (Rel. 0.3)

198 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Northumberland Street.
A noted antiquary, he was Correspondant du
Comitk Imp2riaZ des Travaux Historipes, et aes
SaWs Savants. de France, &c. He was well
known in Edinburgh for his somewhat coarse wit,
and as a collector of rare books, whose library in
Great King Street was reported to be the most
valuable private one in the city, where he was
called-but more especially among legal men-
“Alphabet Turnbull,” from the number of his
initials. He removed to London about 1853, and
became seriously embroiled with the authorities
concerning certain historical documents in the
State Paper Office, when he had his chambers
in 3 Stone Buildings, Lincoln’s Inn Fields.
He died at London on the 22nd of April, 1863,
in his fifty-second year ; and a story went abroad
that a box of MS. papers was mysteriously buried
with him.
CHAPTER XXVII.
NORTHERN NEW TOWN (cmclttded).
Admiral Fairfax-Bishop Terrot-Brigadier Hope-Sir T. M. Brisbane--Lord Meadowbank-Ewbank the R.S.A-Death of Professor Wilson-
Moray Place and its Distrk-Lord President Hope-The Last Abode of Jeffrey-Baron Hume and Lord Monuieff-Forres Street-
Thomas Chalmers. D.D.-St. Colme Street-CaDtain Basil Hall-Ainslie Place-Dugald Stewart-Dean Ramsay-Great Stoart Street-
Professor Aytoun-Miss Graham of Duntroon-Lord Jervkwoode
IN the narrow and somewhat sombre thoroughfare
named Northumberlanc! Street have dwelt some
people who were of note in their time.
In 1810 Lady Emily Dundas, and Admiral Sir
William George Fairfax, resided in Nos. 46 and
53 respectively. The admiral had distinguished
himself at the battle of Camperdown as flag-captain
of the Vmemble, under Admiral Duncan; and in
consideration of his acknowledged bravery and
merit on that occasion-being sent home with the
admiral’s despatches-he was made knight-banneret,
with an augmentation to his coataf-arms in
chief, a representation of 1I.M.S. Venerable en.
gaging the Dutch admiral’s ship Yryheid; and to
do justice to the memory of ‘‘ departed worth,” at
his death his son was made a baronet of Great
Britain in 1836. He had a daughter named Mary,
who became the wife of Samuel Greig, captain and
commissioner in the imperial Russian navy.
No. 19 in the same street was for some years the
residence of the Right Rev. Charles Hughes
Terrot, D.D., elected in 1857 Primus of the Scottish
Episcopal Church, and whose quaint little
figure, with shovel-hat and knee-breeches, was long
familiar in the streets of Edinburgh. He wss born
at Cuddalore in the East Indies in 1790. For
some reasons, though he had not distinguished
himself in the Cambridge Tripos list of University
honours, his own College (Trinity College) paid
him the highest compliment in their power, by
electing him a Fellow on the first occasion aftex
he had taken his degree of B.A. in mathematical
honours, and subsequently proceeded to M.A.
and D.D. He did not remain long at college,
as he soon married and went to Scotland, where
he continued all his life attached to the Scottish
Episcopal Church, as successively incumbent of
Haddington, of St. Peter’s, and finally St. Paul’s,
York Place, Edinburgh. In 1841 he was made
bishop of Edinburgh, on the death of Bishop
Walker. He was author of several works on
theology, During the latter years of his life,
from extreme age and infirmity, he had been
entirely laid aside from his pastoral and episcopal
labours ; but during the period of his health and
vigour few men were more esteemed in his pastoral
relations as their minister, or by his brethren of
the Episcopal Church for his acuteness and clever
judgment in their discussions in church affairs.
The leading features of Dr. Terrot’s intellectual
character were accuracy and precision rather than
very extensive learning or great research. It
was very striking sometimes after a subject had
been discussed in a desultory and commonplace
manner, to hear him coming down ‘upon the ,
question with a clear and cutting remark which
put the whole matter in a new and distinct point
of view.
He was long a Fellow and Vice-President of the
Royal Society of Edinburgh, to which he communicated
some very able and acute papers, especially
on logical and mathematical subjects. So also in
his moral and social relations, he was remarkable for
his manly, fair, and honourable bearing. He had
what might essentially be called a pure and honest
mind. He wasdevotedly attached to his own Church,
and few knew better how to argue in favour of its
polity and forms of service, never varying much in
externals ; but few men were more ready to concede
to others the liberality of judgment which he
. ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Northumberland Street. A noted antiquary, he was Correspondant du Comitk Imp2riaZ des ...

Vol. 4  p. 198 (Rel. 0.3)

Restalrig.] THE CHURCHYARD. 131
That the church was not utterly destroyed is
proved by the fact that the choir walls of this
monument of idolatry ” were roofed over in 1837,
as has been stated.
An ancient crypt, or mausoleum, of large diniensions
and octangular in form, stands on the south
side of the church. Internally it is constructed with
a good groined roof, and some venerable yews cast
their shadow over the soil that has accumulated
above it, and in which they have taken root. It is
believed to have been erected by Sir Robert Logan,
knight, of Restalrig, who died in 1439, according
to the obituary of the Preceptory of St. Anthony at
Leith, and it has been used as a last resting-place
for several of his successors. Some antiquaries,
however, have supposed that it was undoubtedly
attached to the college, perhaps as a chapter-house,
or as a chapel of St. Triduana, but constructed on
the model of St. Margaret’s Well. Among others
buried here is “LADY JANEr KER, LADY RESTALRIG,
QUHA DEPARTED THIS LIFE 17th MAY, 1526.”
Wilson, in his ‘‘ Reminiscences,” mentions that
‘‘ Restalrig kirkyard was the favourite cemetery of
the Nonjuring Scottish Episcopalians of the last
century, when the use of the burial service was
proscribed in the city burial-grounds ; ” and a strong
division of dead cavalry have been interred there
from the adjacent barracks. From Charles Kirkpatrick
Sharpe he quotes a story of a quarrel carried
beyond the grave, which may be read upon a flat
stone near that old crypt.
Of the latter wrote Sharpe, “I believe it belongs
to Lord Bute, and that application was made to him
to allow Miss Hay-whom I well knew-daughter
of Hay of Restalrig, Prince Charles’s forfeited
secretary, to be buried in the vault. This was
refused, and she lies outside the door. May the
earth lie light on her, old lady kind and vener.
able !”
In 1609 the legal rights of the church and parish
of Restalrig, with all their revenues and pertinents,
were formally conferred upon the church of South
Leith.
In 1492, John Fraser, dean of Restalrig, wa?
appointed Lord Clerk Register; and in 154C
another dean, John Sinclair, was made Lord 01
Session, and was afterwards Bishop of Brechin and
Lord President of the Court of Session. He it war
who performed the marriage ceremony for Queen
* Mary and Henry Stuart, Lord Darnley. In 1592
the deanery was dissolved by Act of Parliament,
and divided between “ the parsonage of Leswadc
and parsonage of Dalkeith, maid by Mr. Georgt
Ramsay, dean of Restalrig.”
After the Logans-of whom elsewhere-tht
Lords Balmerino held the lands of Restalrig till
their forfeiture in I 746, and during the whole period
of their possession, appropriated the vaults of the
forsaken and dilapidated church as the burial-place
of themselves and their immediate relations. From
them it passed to the Earls of Bute, with whose
family it still remains.
In the burying-ground here, amid a host of
ancient tombs, are some of modem date, marking
where lie the father of Lord Brougham ; Louis
Cauvin, who founded the hospital which bears his
name at Duddingston ; the eccentric doctor known
as Lang Sandy Wood,” and his kindred, including
the late Lord Wood ; and Lieutenant-Colonel
William Rickson, of the I 9th Foot, a brave and distinguished
soldier, the comrade and attached friend
of Wolfe, the hero of Quebec. His death is thus
recorded in the Scots Magazine for 1770 :-cr At
his house in Broughton, Lieutenant-Colonel William
Rickson, Quartermaster-General and Superintendent
of Roads in North Britain.” His widow died
so lately as 1811, as her tomb at Restalrig bears,
‘‘ in the fortieth year of her widowhood”
Here, too, was interred, in 1720, the Rev. Alexander
Rose, the last titular bishop of Edinburgh.
In tracing out the ancient barons of Restalrig,
among the earliest known is Thomas of Restalrig,
nxa 1210, whose name appears in the Regktruum
de DunferrnZine as Sheriff of Edinburgh.
In the Macfarlane MSS. in the Advocates’
Library, there is a charter of his to the Priory of
Inchcolm, in the Firth of Forth, circa 1217, very
interesting from the localities therein referred to,
and the tenor of which runs thus in English :-
“To all seeing or hearing these writings,
Thomas of Lestalrig wishes health. Know ye,
that for the good of my soul, and the souls of all
my predecessors and successors, and the soul of
my wife, I have given and conceded, and by this
my charter have confirmed, to God and the canons
of the church of St. Columba on the Isle, and the
canons of the same serving God, and that may yet
serve Him forever, that whole land which Baldwin
Comyn was wont to hold from me in the town of
Leith, namely, that land which is next and adjoining
on the south to that land which belonged to
Ernauld of Leith, and to twenty-four acres and a
half of arable land in my estate of Lestalrig in that
field which is called Horstanes, on the west part of
the same field, and on the north part of the high
road between Edinburgh and Leith (it., the Easter
Road) in pure and perpetual gift to be held by
them, with all its pertinents and easements, and
with common pasture belocging to such land, and
with free ingress and egress, with carriage, team, ... THE CHURCHYARD. 131 That the church was not utterly destroyed is proved by the fact that the choir ...

Vol. 5  p. 131 (Rel. 0.3)

2 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Kirk-of-Field.
land of umyle Hew Berrie’s tenement and chamber
adjacent yr to, lying in the Cowgaitt, on the south
side of the street, betwixt James Earl of Buchan’s
land on the east, and Thomas Tod’s on ye west.”
This lady was a daughter of John Lord Kennedy,
and was the widow of the aged Earl of Angus, who
died of a broken heart after the battle of Flodden.
In 1450-1 an obligation by the Corporation of
Skinners in favour of St. Christopher‘s altar in St.
Giles’s was signed with much fornialityon the 12th
of January, infra ecdesiam Beate &Iarie He Canzpo,
in presence of Sir Alexander Hundby, John
Moffat, and John Hendirsone, chaplains thereof,
Thomas Brown, merchant, and other witnesses.
((‘ Burgh Rec.”)
James Laing, a burgess of Edinburgh, founded
an additional chaplaincy in this church during the
reign of James V., whose royal confirmation of it is
dated 19th June, 1530, and the grant is made “ to
a chaplain celebrating divine service at the high
altar within the collegiate church of Blessed
Marie-in-the-Fields.”
When made collegiate it was governed by a provost,
who with eight prebendaries and two choristers
composed the college ; but certain rights appear to
have been reserved then by the canons of Holyrood,
for in 1546 we find Robert, Commendator of
the abbey, presenting George Kerr to a. prebend
in it, “according to the force and form of the
foundation.”
There is a charter by James V., arst May, 1531,
confirming a previous one of 16th May, I 53 I, by the
lady before mentioned, “Janet Kennedy Domina
de Bothvill,” of tenements in Edinburgh, and an
annual rent of twenty shillings for a prebendary to
perform divine service “in the college kirk of the
Blessed Virgin Mary-in-the-Fields, or without the
walls of Edinburgh, pro sat& #sius Domini Regis
(JamesV.), and for the souls OP his father (James
IV.), and the late Archibald, Earl of Angus”
Among the most distinguished provosts of the
Kirk-of-Field was its second one, Richard Bothwell,
rector of Ashkirk, who in A4ugust and
December, 1534, was a commissioner for opening
Parliament. He died in the provost’s house in
1547.
The prebendal buildings were of considerable
extent, exclusive of the provost’s house, or
lodging. David Vocat, one of the prebendaries,
and master of the Grammar School of Edinburgh,
clerk and orator of Holyrood,” was a liberal
’ benefactor to the church ; but it and the buildings
attached to it seem to have suffered severely at the
hands of the English during the invasion of 1544
or 1547. In the ‘‘ Inventory of the Townis purchase
from the Marquis of Hamilton in 1613,’’ with
a view to the founding of a college, says Wilson,
we have found an abstract of “a feu charter granted
by Mr. Alexander Forrest, provost of the collegiate
church of the Blessed Xlary-in-the-Fields, near
Edinr., and by the prebends of the said church,”
dated 1544, wherein it is stated:-“Considering that
ther houses, especially ther hospital annexed and
incorporated with ther college, were burnt down
and destroyed by their add enemies of EngZand, so
that nothing of their said hospital was left, but they
are altogether waste and entirely destroyed, wherethrough
the divine worship is not a little decreased
in the college, because they were unable to rebuild
the said hospital. . . , Therefore they gave and
granted, set in feu forme, and confirmed to a magnificent
and illustrious prince, James, Duke of
Chattelherault, Earl of Arran, Lord Hamilton, &c.,
all and hail their tenement or hospital, with the
yards and pertinints thereof, lying within the burgh
of Edinburgh, in the street or wynd called School
House Wynd, on the east part thereof.”
The duke appears, it is added, from frequent
allusions by contemporaries, to have built an abode
for his family on the site of this hospital, and that
edifice served in future years as the hall of the first
college of Edinburgh.
In 1556 we find Alexander Forrest, the provost
of the kirk, in the name of the Archbishop of St.
Andrews, presenting a protest, signed by Mary of
Guise, to the magistrates, praying them to suppress
‘‘ certain odious ballettis and rymes baith sett
furth ” by certain evil-inclined persons, who had
also demolished certain images, but with what end
is unknown. (“Burgh Records.”)
But two years after Bishop Lesly records that
when the Earl of Argyle and his reformers entered
Edinburgh, after spoiling the Black and Grey
Friars, and having their “ haill growing treis
plucked up be the ruittis,” they destroyed and
burned all the images in the Kirk-of-Field.
In 1562 the magistrates made application to
Queen Mary, among other requests, for the Kirk-of-
Field and all its adjacent buildings and ground,
for the purpose of erecting a school thereon, and
for the revenues of the old foundation to endow the
same ; but they were not entirely made over to the
city for the purpose specified till 1566.
The quadrangle of the present university now
occupies the exact site of the church of St. Mary-inthe-
Fields, including that of the prebendal buildings,
and, says Wilson-who in this does not quite accord
with Bell-to a certain extent the house of the provost,
so fatally known in history; and the main access
and approach to the whole establishment was ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Kirk-of-Field. land of umyle Hew Berrie’s tenement and chamber adjacent yr to, lying in ...

Vol. 5  p. 2 (Rel. 0.3)

THE FREE CHURCH COLLEGE. 95 The Mound.]
Much of all this was altered when the bank was
enlarged, restored, and most effectively re-decorated
by David Bryce, R.S.A., in 1868-70. It now
presents a lofty, broad, and arch-based rear front of
colossal proportions to Princes Street, from whence,
and every other poiiit of view, it forms a conspicuous
mass, standing boldly from among the
many others that form the varied outline of the
Old Town, and consists of the great old centre with
new wings, surmounted by a fine dome, crowned
by a gilded figure of Fame, seven feet high. In
length the facade measures 175 feet; and 112 in
height from the pavement in Bank Street to the
summit, and is embellished all round with much
force and variety, in details of a Grecian style.
The height of the campanile towers is ninety feet.
The bank has above seventy branches ; the subscribed
capital in 1878 was A1,875,000 ; the paidup
capital LI,Z~O,OOO. There are a governor (the
Earl of Stair, K.T.), a deputy, twelve ordinary
and twelve extra-ordinary directors.
The Bank of Scotland issues drafts on other
places in Scotland besides those in which it has
branches, and also on the chief towns in England
and Ireland, and it has correspondents throughout
the whole continent of Europe, as well as in
British America, the States, India, China, Australia,
New Zealand, South Africa, and elsewhere-a ramification
of business beyond the wildest dreams oi
John Holland and the original projectors of the
establishment in the old Bank Close in 1695.
Concerning the Earthen Mound, the late Alex.
ander Trotter of Dreghorn had a scheme foi
joining the Qld Town to the New, and yet avoiding
Bank Street, by sinking the upper end of the
mound to the leve! of Princes Street, and carrying
the Bank Street end of it eastward along the north
of the Bank of Scotland, in the form of a handsomc
terrace, and thence south into the High Street b)
an opening right upon St. Giles’s Church. Thf
next project was one by the late Sir Thomas Dick
Lauder. He also proposed to bring down thc
south end of the mound “to the level of Prince;
Street, and then to cut a Roman arch through thc
Lawnmarket and under the houses, so as to pas!
on a level to George Square. This,” say!
Cockburn, “was both practical and easy, but i
was not expounded till too late.’’
Not far from the Bank of Scotland, in I(
North Bank Street, ensconced among the might!
mass of buildings that overlook the mound, arc
the offices of the National Security Savings Ban1
of.Edinburgh, established under statute in 1836, an(
certified in terms of the Act 26 and 27 Victoria
cap. 87, managed by a chairman and cominittel
I
if management, the Bank of Scotland being
reasurer.
Of this most useful institution for the benefit of
,he thrifty poorer classes, suffice it to say, as a
ample of its working, that on striking the yearly
iccounts on the 20th of November, 1880, “the
balance due to depositors was on that date
&r,305,27g 14s. 7d., and that the assets at the
same date were x1,3og,3g2 Ss., invested with the
Commissioners for the Reduction of the National
Debt, and A3,1o4 3s. gd., at the credit of the
3ank’s account in the Bank of Scotland, making
the total assets L1,312,496 11s. gd., which, after
ieductionof the above sum of L1,305,279 14s. 7d.,
leaves a clear surplus of A7916 17s. zd. at the
:redit of the trustees.”
The managers are, ex oficio, the Lord Provost,
the Lord Advocate, the senior Bailie of the city,
:he Members of Parliament for the city, county,
md Leith, the Provost of Leith, the Solicitor-
General, the Convener of the Trades, the Lord
Dean of Guild, and the Master of the Merchant
Company.
In the sanie block of buildings are the offices of
the Free Church of Scotland, occupying the site of
the demolished half of James’s Court. They were
erected in 1851-61, and are in a somewhat
Rorid variety of the Scottish baronial style, from
designs by the late David Cousin.
In striking contrast to the terraced beauty of the
New Town, the south side of the vale of the old
loch, from the North Bridge to the esplanade of
the Castle, is overhung by the dark and lofty gables
and abutments of those towering edifices which
terminate the northern alleys of the High Street,
and the general grouping of which presents an
aspect of equal romance and sublimity. From
amid these sombre masses, standing out in the
white purity of new freestone, are the towers and
facade of the Free Church College and Assembly
Hall, at the head of the Mound.
Into the history of the crises which called
these edifices into existence we need not enter
here, but true it is, as Macaulay says, that for the
sake of religious opinion the Scots have made
sacrifices for which there is no parallel in the
annals of England; and when, at the Disruption,
so many clergymen of the Scottish Church cast
their bread upon the waters, in that spirit of
independence and self-reliance so characteristic of
the race, they could scarcely have foreseen the
great success of their movement.
This new college was the first of those instituted
in connection with the Free Church. The idea
was origipally entertained of making provision for ... FREE CHURCH COLLEGE. 95 The Mound.] Much of all this was altered when the bank was enlarged, restored, and ...

Vol. 3  p. 95 (Rel. 0.3)

GNsmarket.1 THE GAELIC CHAPEL. 235
target, andnogentlemantookthe road without pistols
in his holsters, and was the chief place for carriers
putting up in the days when all the country traffic
was conducted by their carts or waggons. In 1788
fortysix carriers arrived weekly in the Grassmarket,
and this number increased to ninety-six in 1810.
In those days the Lanark coach started fiom
George Cuddie’s stables there, every Friday and
Tuesday at 7 am. ; the Linlithgow and Falkirk
flies at 4 every afternoon, ‘( Sundays excepted ; ”
and the Peebles coach from “ Francis M‘Kay’s,
vintner, White Hart Inn,” thrice weekly, at g in
the morning.
Some bloodshed occurred in the Castle Wynd
in 1577. When Morton’s administration became
so odious as Regent that it was resolved to deprive
him of his power, his natural son, George Douglas
of Parkhead, held the Castle of which he was
governor, and the magistrates resolved to cut off
all supplies from him. At 5 o’clock on the 17th
March their guards discovered two carriages of
provisions for the Castle, which were seized at
the foot of the Wynd. This being seen by Parkhead’s
garrison, a sally was made, and a combat
ensued, in which three citizens were killed and six
wounded, but only one soldier was slain, while sixteen
others pushed the carriages up the steep slope.
The townsmen, greatly incensed by the injury,”
says Moyse, ‘‘ that same night cast trenches beside
Peter Edgafs house for enclosing of the Castle.”
Latterly the closes on the north side of the
Market terminated on the rough uncultured slope
of the Castle Hill; but in the time of Gordon of
Rothiemay a belt of pretty gardens had been there
from the west fiank of the city wall to the Castle
Wynd, where a massive fragment of the wall of
1450 remained till the formation of Johnstone
Terrace. On the west side of the Castle Wynd
is an old house, having a door only three feet
three inches wide, inscribed:
BLESSIT. BE. GOD. FOR. AL. HIS. GIFTIS.
16. 163 7. 10.
The double date probably indicated arenewal of
the edifice.
The first Gaelic chapel in Edinburgh stood in
the steep sloping alley named the Castle Wynd.
Such an edifice had long been required in the
Edinburgh of those days, when such a vast number
of Highlanders resorted thither as chairmen, porters,
water-carriers, city guardsmen, soldiers of the
Castle Company, servants and day-labourers, and
when Irish immigration was completely unknown.
These people in their ignorance of Lowland Scottish
were long deprived of the benefit of religious
instruction, which was a source of regret to themselves
and of evil to society.
Hence proposals were made by Mr. Williarn
Dicksos, a dyer of the city, for building a chapel
wherein the poor Highlanders might receive religious
instruction in their own language; the contributions
of the benevolent flowed rapidly in; the
edifice was begun in 1767 and opened in 1769,
upon .a piece of ground bought by the philanthropic
William Dickson, who disposed of it to the Society
for the Propagation of Christian Knowledge. The
church cost A700, of which LIOO was given by
the Writers to the Signet.
It was soon after enlarged to hold about 1,100
hearers. The minister was elected by the subscribers.
His salary was then only LIOO per
annum, ‘and he was, of course, in communion with
the Church- of Scotland, when such things as the
repentance stool and public censure did not
become thing of the past until 1780. “Since the
chapel was erected,” says Kincaid, “the Highlanders
have been punctual in their attendance on
divine worship, and have discovered the greatest
sincerity in their devotions. Chiefly owing to the
bad crops for some years past in the Highlands,
the last peace, and the great improvements Carrying
on in this city, the number of Highlanders has of late
increased so much that the chapel in its present
situation cannot contain them. Last Martinmas,
above 300 applied for seats who could not be
accommodated, and who cannot be edified in the
English language.”
The first pastor here was the Rev. Joseph
Robertson MacGregor, a native of Perthshire, who
was a licentiate of the Church of England before
he joined that of Scotland., “The last levies of
the Highland regiments,” says Kincaid, ‘‘ were
much indebted to this house, for about a third of
its number have, this last and preceding wars,
risqued (xi.) their lives for their king and country ;
and no other church in Britain, without the aid or
countenance of Government, contains so many
disbanded soldiers.”
Mr. MacGregor was known by his mother‘s
name of Robertson, assumed in consequence of
the proscription of his clan and name ; but, on the
repeal of the infamous statute against it, in 1787,
on the day it expired he attired himself in a fill
suit of the MacGregor tartan, and walked conspicuously
about the city.
The Celtic congregation continued to meet 51
the Castle Wynd till 1815, when its number had
so much increased that a new church was built for
them in another quarter of the city.
The Plainstanes Close, with Jatnieson’s, Beattie’s,
s
* ... THE GAELIC CHAPEL. 235 target, andnogentlemantookthe road without pistols in his holsters, and was ...

Vol. 4  p. 235 (Rel. 0.3)

Charlotte Square.] THE ALBERT MEMORIAL. I75
His neighbour and brother senator Lord Dundrennan
occupied No. 35 ; and in 1811 William
Robertson, Lord Robertson, a senator of 1805,
occupied No. 42. He was the eldest son of Dr.
Robertson the historian, and in 1779 was chosen
Procurator of the Church of Scotland, after ,a close
contest, in which he was opposed by the Hon.
Henry Erskine. His personal appearance is
described in “ Peter’s Letters to his Kinsfolk.”
He retired from the bench in 1826, in consequence
of deafness, and died in November, 1835.
On the western side of the Square, and terminating
with fine effect the long vista of George
Street from the east, is St. George’s Church, the
foundation of which was laid on the 14th of May,
1811. It was built from a design furnished by
Robert Reid, king’s architect The celebrated
Adam likewise furnished a plan for this church,
which was relinquished in consequence of the
expense it would have involved. The whole building,
with the exception of the dome, which is a
noble one, and seen to advantage from any point,
is heavy in appearance, meagre in detail, and
hideous in conception, and its ultimate expense
greatly exceeded the estimates and the sum for
which the more elegant design of Adam could have
been carried out. It cost A33,ooo, is calculated
to accommodate only 1,600 persons, and was opened
for public worship in 1814. It was intended in
its upper part to be a large miniature or reduced
copy of St. Paul’s in London, and is in a kind of
Grzco-Italian style, with a lofty but meagre Ionic
portico and surmounting an Attic Corinthian colonnade
; it rests on a square ground plan measuring
IIZ feet each way, and culminates in the dome,
surmounted by a lantern, cupola, and cross, the
last at the height of 160 feet from the ground.
The original design included two minarets, which
have not as yet been added.
It is chiefly celebrated as the scene of the ministrations
of Andrew Thomson, D.D., an eminent
divine who was fixed upon as its pastor in 1814.
He died suddenly on the 9th of February, 1831,
greatly beloved and lamented by the citizens in
general and his congregation in particular, and now
he lies in a piece of ground connected with the
churchyard of St. Cuthbert.
In Charlotte Place, behind the church, are the
atelier of Sir John Steel the eminent sculptor, and
a music-room called St. Cecilia’s Hall, with an
orchestra space for 250 performers and seats for
500 hearers.
In the centre of the Square is the memorial to
the Prince Consort, which was inaugurated with
much state by the Queen in person, attended by
the magistrates and archer guard, &c., in August,
1876. It cost A16,500, and is mainly from
the studio of Steel It is a quasi-pyramidal structure,
about thirty-two feet high, with a colossal
equestrian statue of the Prince as its central and
upper figure ; it is erected on an oblong Peterhead
granite pedestal, fully seventeen feet high, and
exhibiting emblematic bas-reliefs in the panels,
with four groups of statues on square blocks, projecting
from the corners of the basement; the
prince is shown in the uniform of a field marshal.
Of all the many statues that have been erected
to his memory, this in Charlotte Square is perhaps
one of the best and most pleasing.
With this chapter we close the history of what
may be regarded as thejt-st New Town, which was
designed in 1767, laid out, as we have seen, in a
parallelogram the sides of which measure 3,900
feet by 1,090.
The year 1755 was the period when Edinburgh
seemed really to wake from the sleep and torpor
that followed the Union, and a few imprdvements
began in the Old Town. After that period, says
Kincaid, writing in 1794, “ it is moderate to say
that not less than ~3,000,000 sterling has been
expended in building and public improvements.”
Thirty-five years ago,” says the Edinburgh
Adverther for 1823, “ there were scarcely a dozen
sliops in the New Town; now, in Princes Street,
with the exception of hotels and the Albyn Club
Room, they reach to Hanover Street.”
In the present day the whole .area we have described
is mainly occupied by shops, with the exception
of Charlotte Square and a small portion of
Queen Street. ... Square.] THE ALBERT MEMORIAL. I75 His neighbour and brother senator Lord Dundrennan occupied No. 35 ; ...

Vol. 3  p. 175 (Rel. 0.29)

St Gilds Churchyard. THE CHURCHYARD. I49
were a hospital and chapel known by the name
of the “Maison Dieu.” “We know not,” says
Arnot, ‘* at what time or by whom it was founded ;
but at the Reformation it shared the common
fate of Popish establishments in this country. It
was converted into private property. This building
is still (1779) entire, and goes by the name of the
Clam-shell Turnpike, from the figure of an escalopshell
cut in stone above the door.”
Fire and modern reform have effected dire
changes here since Arnot wrote. Newer buildings
.occupy the site ; but still, immediately above the
entrance that led of old to Bell’s Wynd, a modern
stone lintel bears an escalop shell in memory of
the elder edifice, which, in the earliest titles of it
. conceit which appears among the sculpture at
Roslm chapel. So late as 1620 “James Lennox
iselected chaplain of the chapelry of the holy rood,
in the burgh kirk-yard of St. Giles.” Hence it is
supposed that the nether kirk-yard remained in use
long after the upper had been abandoned as a
plad of sepulture.
All this was holy ground in those days, fQr in
U Keith’s Catalogue” we are told that near the
head of Bell’s Wynd (on the eastern side) there
the pavement of a noisy street, “there sleep the
great, the good, the peaceful and the turbulent,
the faithful and the false, all blent together in their
quaint old coffins and flannel shrouds, with money
in their dead hands, and crosses or chalices on
their breasts ; old citizens who remembered the
long-haired King David passing forth with barking
hound and twanging horn on that Roodday in
harvest which so nearly cost him his life ; and how
the fair Queen Margaret daily fed the poor at the
castle gate ‘with the tenderness of a mother;’
those who had seen Randolph’s patriots scale ‘the
steep, the iron-belted rock;’ Count Guy of Namur’s
Flemish lances routed on the Burghmuir, and
William Wallace mustering his bearded warriors
-
~~ ~ ~~~~~
that are extant, was written of as the “old land,”
formerly belonging to George Crichton, Bishop of
Dunkeld, who held that see between the years
1527 and 1543, and was Lord Keeper of the
Privy Seal under King James V.
Overlooked, then, by the great cruciform church
of St. Giles, and these minor ecclesiastical edifices,
the first burying-ground of Edinburgh lay on the
steep slope with its face to the sun. The last
home of generations of citizens, under what is now
ST. GILES’S CHURCH IN Tni PRESENT DAY. ... Gilds Churchyard. THE CHURCHYARD. I49 were a hospital and chapel known by the name of the “Maison Dieu.” “We ...

Vol. 1  p. 149 (Rel. 0.29)

THE NORMAL SCHOOL. 295 George IV. Bridge.]
highly qualified examiners, on every point of which
it takes cognisance. It grants annually ten bursaries
of L z o each, and five of LIO each, to be
competed for by pupils of schools approved .of by
the directors.
The Society’s vested capital now’ amounts to
&o,ooo, and its annual revenue reaches more than
&,~oo, besides the receipts for general shows,
The Argyle Fund, for the education of young Highland
gentlemen for the navy, now amounts to
A5,639, and was instituted by John fifth Duke of
Argyle, the original president of the Society.
From its chambers, No. 3, George IV. Bridge, surveying
a width of range and multiplicity of objects
worthy of its wealth and intellect, its opulence of
power and resource, the Soqiety promotes the erection
of towns and bridges, the formation of roads,
the experiments and enterprises of agriculture, the
improvement of farm stock, the sheltering processes
of planting, the extension of fisheries, the introduction
of manufactures, the adaptation of machinery
to all useful arts, the ready co-operation of
’ local influence with legislative and public measures,
the diffusion of practical knowledge of all that may
tend to the general good of the Scottish nation,
and the consolidation of the Highlanders and
Lowlanders into one great fraternal community.
“ The Society awards large and numerous premiums
to stimulate desiderated enterprises, and in
1828 began the publication of the Quarter0 lown
d of Agridtztre, for prize essays and the dissemination
of the newest practical information ; it
patronises great annual cattle shows successively in
different towns, and by means of them excites and
directs a stirring and creditable spirit of emulation
among graziers, and, in general, it keeps in play
upon the community, a variety of influences which,
as far as regards mere earthly well-being, have
singularly transformed and beautified its character.”
Its arms are a figure of Caledonia on a pedestal,
between two youths-one a Highland reaper, the
other a ploughboy-being crowned. The motto is,
Sem$er armis nunc et industria. The Highland
Society’s hall and chamber form a very symmetrical
and also ornamental edifice, with a beautiful sculpture
of its coat of arms from the chisel of A.. H.
Kitchie. It formerly contained a most interesting
agricultural museum, which has been removed elsewhere.
Simil7.r societies on the same model have
since been established-by England in 1838, and
by Ireland in 1841.
The other edifice referred to, the Sheriff’s Court
Buildings, contiguous to the open arches over the
Cowgate, was erected in 1865-8, from designs
by David Bryce, at a cost of more than A44,ooo. -
It rises from a low basement, with an extensive
and imposing flank to the south, and presents in
its fapde an ornate variety of the Italian style
of architecture ; but within exhibits simply the
usual features of legal courts, with three subordinate
official chambers, unless we except the Society
hall of the solicitors-at-law, a minor legal body in
Edinburgh, which was incorporated by royal charter
in 1780, and only certain members of which are
qualified to act as agents before the Supreme Courts.
Johnstone Terrace, King’s Road, and Castle
Terrace crossing the King’s Bridge, the foundation
stone of which was laid in 1827, unitedly extend
about go0 yards along the southern limb, or southwestern
skirt of the Castle Rock, connecting the
head of the Lawnmarket with the Lothian Road,
at a point about 180 yards south of the west end
of Princes Street. These were formed between
1825 and 1836, to afford improved access to the
Old Town from the westward. They are collectively
called the New Western Approach, and apart
from being a very questionable improvement as
regards artistic taste, have destroyed the amenity
of the Castle Rock, and lessened its strength as a
fortress.
In Johnstone Terrace, to which we shall confine
ourselves for the present, at the eastern end,
resting at the corner of the Old West Bow, is St.
John’s Free Church, a handsome edifice in a mixed
style of early Gothic It was built from designs
furnished by Robert Hamilton in 1847, and is
chiefly famous for its congregation having enjoyed
for some years the ministry of the celebrated Dr.
Guthrie, and of Dr. Williani Hanna, a graduate of
the University of Glasgow, who was ordained to
the ministry of the Presbyterian Church in 1835,
and who is so well known as the author of “Wycliffe
and the Huguenots,” and as the affectionate
biographer of Chalmers.
Westward of this edifice is St. Columba’s Episcopal
church, also a Gothic structure, but of an earlier
style, with a low, square battlemented tower;
built in 1845.
At the cost of about ;GIO,OOO, the Normal School
of the Church of Scotland was built westward of it,
in 1845, and is a large and handsome edifice.
It is called the Normal School, or Church of
Scotland Training College. It is under the control
and management of the Education Committee of
the Church. It is a double college, and like that
in Glasgow, trains both masters and mistresses.
The course of training extends over two years,
and none are admitted as students but those who
have passed a preliminary examination ; but the
committee exercise their discretion in making their ... NORMAL SCHOOL. 295 George IV. Bridge.] highly qualified examiners, on every point of which it takes ...

Vol. 2  p. 295 (Rel. 0.29)

Canongate.1 GOVERNMENT OF THE BURGH. 3
{oundation charter of the latter, I likewise grant
go the said canons the town of Herbergare, lying
betwixt the said church, and my town (of Edinmunity
had been swept away by the Reformatioa ;
and by the king’s grant a commendator succeeded
the last abbot, enjoying the privileges of the latter,
According to the record books of the Canongate,
it was governed in 1561 by four old bailies, three
deacons, two treasurers, and four councillors,
“chosen and elected;” and, as enacted in 1567,
the council met every eighth day, on fuirsdaye.
The Tolbooth was then, as till a late period, the
council-room, court-house, and place of punishunent
By 1561 the monastic superiority over the combut
the real glory of the Canongate may be said
to have departed with the court when James VI.
succeeded to the throne of England in 1603, though,
as we shall show, it long continued to be a
fashionable quarter of the metropolis even after
the time of the Union.
In pursuing the general history of the suburbs,
we find that in 1609, under favour of James VI.,
when a number of foreigners were introduced into ... GOVERNMENT OF THE BURGH. 3 {oundation charter of the latter, I likewise grant go the said canons the ...

Vol. 3  p. 3 (Rel. 0.29)

The Water of Leith.] ST. BERNARD’S WELL. 75
To protect it, a stone covering of some kind was
proposed, and in that year the foundation thereof
was actually laid by ‘‘ Alexander Drummond,
brother of Provost Drummond, lately British Consul
at Aleppo, and Provincial Grand Master of all
the Lodges in Asia and Europe holding of the
Grand Lodge, Scotland.” The brethren in their
insignia were present, the spring was named St.
Bernard’s Well, and the subject inspired the local
muse of Claudero.
A silly legend tells how St. Bernard, being sent
on a mission to the Scottish Court, was met with
so cold a reception that, in chagrin, he came to
this picturesque valley, and occupied a cave in
the vicinity of the well, to which his attention was
attracted by the number of birds that resorted to
it, and ere long he announced its virtues to the
people There is undoubtedly a cave, and of no
inconsiderable dimensions, in the cliffs to the westward,
and it is now entirely hidden by the boundarywall
at the back of Randolph Cliff; but, unfortunately
for the legend, in the Bollandists there are
at least three St Bernards, not one of whom ever
was on British soil.
The present well-a handsome Doric temple,
with a dome, designed by Nasmyth, after the Sybils’
Temple at Tivoli-was really founded by Lord
Gardenstone in May, 1789, after he had derived
great benefit from drinking the waters. “The
foundation stone was laid,” says the Advertiser for
that year, ‘‘ in presence of several gentlemen of the
neighbourhood.” A metal plate was sunk into it
with the following inscription ;-
‘< Erected for the benefit of the Public, at the sole expense
of Francis Garden, Esq., of Troupe, one of the senators of
the College of Justice, A.D. 1789. Alexander Nasmyth,
Architect ; John Wilson, Buiider.”
A fine statue of Hygeia, by Coade of London,
was placed within the pillars of the temple. For
thirty years after its erection it was untouched by
the hand of mischief, but now it is so battered
by stones as to be a perfect wreck. Since the
days of Lord Gardenstone the well has always
been more or less frequented. A careful analysis
of the water by Dr. Stevenson Macadam, showed
that it resembled closely the Harrogate springs.
The morning is the best time for drinking it.
During some recent drainage operations the water
entirely disappeared, and it was thought the public
would lose the benefit of it for ever; but after a
time it returned, with its medicinal virtues stronger
than ever.
A plain little circular building was erected in
1810 over another spring that existed a little to
the westward of St. Bernard’s, by Mr. Macdonald
of Stockbridge, who named it St. George’s Well.
The water is said to be the sameas that of the
former, but if so, no use has been made of it for
many years past. From its vicinity to the well.
Upper Dean Terrace, when first built, was called
Mineral Street. In those days India Place was
called Athole Street; Leggat’s Land was Braid’s
Row; and Veitch’s Square (built by a reputable
old baker of that name) was called Virgin’s Square.
The removal of the greater part of the latter,
which consisted of four rows of cottages, thirty in
number, and all thatched with straw, alters one of
the most quaint localities in old Stockbridge. Each
consisted only of a “but and a ben”-i.e., two
apartments-and in the centre was a spacious
bleaching green, past which flowed the Leith, in
those days pure and limpid. The cottages were
chiefly. if not wholly, occupied by blanchtsseuses,
and hence its name.
The great playground of the village children was
the open and flat piece of land in the Haugh, near
Inverleith, known as the Whins, covered now by
Hugh Miller Place and nine other streets of artisans’
houses.
In past times flour-mills and tan-pits were the
chief means of affording work for the people of
Stockbridge. About 1814 a china manufactory
was started on a small scale on the Dean Bank
grounds, near where Saxe-Coburg Place stands
now. It proved a failure, but some pieces of the
“Stockbridge china” are still preserved in the
Industrial Museum.
As population increased in this district new
churches were required. Claremont Street Chapel,
now called St. Bernard’s Church, was built for
those who were connected with the Establishment,
at a cost of ~4,000, and opened in November, 1823.
Its first incumbent was the Rev. James Henderson of
Berwick, afterwards of Free St. Enoch’s, Glasgow.
About the year 1826, persons connected with
the Relief Church built Dean Street Church in
the narrow street at the back of the great crescent,
and named it St. Bernards Chapel. It was after- ‘
wards sold to the United Secession body. In the
year 1843, at the Disruption, the Rev. Alexander
Brown, of St. Bernard’s, with a great portion of his
congregation, withdrew from the Church of Scotland,
and formed Free St. Bernard’s; and, more recently,
additional accommodation has been provided for
those of that persuasion by the re-erection in its
own mass, at Deanhaugh Street, of St. George’s
Free Church, which was built in the Norman style
of architecture, for the Rev. Dr. Candlish, at St.
Cuthbert’s Lane.
Mrs. Gordon is correct in stating that Stockbridge ... Water of Leith.] ST. BERNARD’S WELL. 75 To protect it, a stone covering of some kind was proposed, and in ...

Vol. 5  p. 75 (Rel. 0.29)

78 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Edinburgh Castle.
entrance to the apartment in which her daughter
was delivered of James VI, It was formerly part
of a large room which, before being partitioned,
measured 30 by 25 feet. On the I 1 th of February,
1567, after the murder of Darnley, Mary retired
to this apartment, where she had the walls hung
with black, and remained in strict seclusion until
after the funeral. Killigrew, who came from
Elizabeth with letters of condolence, on his introduction
found (( tbe Queen’s Majesty in a
dark chamber, so that he could not see her
face, but by her words she seemed very doleful.”
In 1849, an antique iron chisel, spear-shaped,
was found in the fireplace of this apartment,
which was long used as a canteen for the soldiers,
but has now been renovated, though in a rude
and inelegant form.
Below the grand hall are a double tier of
strongly-vaulted dungeons, entered by a passage
from the west, and secured by an intricate arrangement,
of iron gates and massive chains. In one
of these Kirkaldy of Grange buried his brother
David Melville. The small loophole that admits
light into each of these huge vaults, whose
origin is lost in the mists of antiquity, is strongly
secured by three ranges of iron bars. Within these
drear abodes have captives of all kinds pined, and
latterly the French prisoners, forty of whom slept
in each. In some are still the wooden frames to
which their hammocks were slung. Under Queen
Mary’s room there is one dungeon excavated out
of the solid rock, and having, as we have said, an
iron staple in its wall to which the prisoner was
chained.
The north side of the quadrangle consists now
of an uninteresting block of barracks, erected about
the middle of the eighteenth century, and altered,
but scarcely improved, in 1860-2, by the Royal Engineers
and Mr. Charles W. Billings. It occupies the
site, and was built from the materials, of what was
once a church of vast dimensions and unknown antiquity,
but the great western gable of which was long
ago a conspicuous feature above the eastern curtain
wall. By Maitland it is described as ((a very long
and large ancient church, which from its spacious
dimensions I imagine that it was not only built for
the use of the garrison, but for the service of the
neighbouring hinabitants before St. Giles’s church
was erected for their accommodation.” Its great
font, and many beautifully carved stones were found
built into the barrack wall during recent alterations.
It is supposed to have been a church erected after
the death of the pious Queen Margaret, and dedicated
to her, as it is mentioned by David I. in his
Holyrood charter as “the church of the Castle
of Edinburgh,” and is again confirmed as such in the
charter of Alexander 111. and several Papal bulls,
and the ‘( paroche kirk within the said Castell,” is
distinctly referred to by the Presbytery of Edinburgh
in 1595.” In 1753 it was divided into three
storeys, and filled with tents, cannon, and other munitions
of war.
A winding stair descends from the new barracks
to the butts, where the rock is defended
by the western wall and Bute’s Battery, near which,
at an angle, a turret, named the Queen’s Post,
occupies the site of St. Margaret’s Tower. Fifty
feet below the level of the rock is another guardhouse
and one of the draw-wells poisoned by the
Englishin 1572. Kear it is the ancient posterngate,
where Dundee held his parley with the Duke of
Gordon in 1688, and through which, perhaps, St.
Margaret’s body was borne in 1093.
From thence there is a sudden ascent by steps,
behind the banquette of the bastions and near
the principal, magazine, to Mylne’s Mount, where
there is another grate for a bale-fire to alarm Fife,
Stirling, and the north. The fortifications are
irregular, furnished throughout with strong stone
turrets, and prepared for mounting about sixty
pieces of cannon. Two door-lintels covered with
curious sculptures are still preserved : one over the
entrance to the ordnance office represents Mons
Meg and other ancient cannon ; the other a cannoneer
of the sixteenth century, in complete armour,
in the act of loading a small culverin.
The Castle farm is said to have been the ancient
village of Broughton, which St. David granted to
the monks of Holyrood ; the Castle gardens we
have already referred to; and to the barns, stables,
and lists attached to it, we shall have occasion to
refer elsewhere.
The Castle company was a corps of Scottish
soldiers raised in January 1661, and formed a
permanent part of the garrison till 1818, when,
with the ancient band of Mary of Guise, which
garrisoned the Castle of Stirling, they were incorporated
in cne of the thirteen veteran battalions
emjodied in that year. The Castle being within
the abrogated parish of Holyrood, has a burial-place
for its garrison in the Canongate churchyard ; but
dead have been buried within the walls frequently
during sieges and blockades, as in 1745, when nineteen
soldiers and three women were interred on the
summit of the rock.
The Castle is capable of containing 3,000 infantry;
but the accommodation for troops is greatly ;
neglected by Government, and the barracks have
Wodmw’s ‘ I Miscellany.” ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Edinburgh Castle. entrance to the apartment in which her daughter was delivered of ...

Vol. 1  p. 78 (Rel. 0.29)

254 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Leith.
The first volume of the ‘‘ Parochial Records ”
begins in January, 1605, a year before the Act,
and contains the usual memoranda of petty tyranny
peculiar to the times, such as the following, modernised
:-
“ Compeared Margaret Siclair, being cited by
the Session of the Kirk, and being accused of
being at the Bume (for water?) the last Sabbath
before sermon, confessed, her offence, promised
amendment in all time coming, and was convict of
five pounds.” ‘‘ 10th January, 1605 :-The which day the Session
of the Kirk ordained Janet Merling, and Margaret
Cook, her mother, to make their public repentance
next Sabbath forenoon publicly, for concealing
a bairn unbaptised in her house for the space of
twenty weeks, and calling the said bairn Janet.”
“January ~oth, 1605 :-Cornpeared Marion Anderson,
accused of craving curses and malisons on
the pastor and his family, without any offence being
done by him to her ; and the Session, understanding
that she had been banished before for being in a
lodge on the Links in time of the Plague, with one
Thomas Cooper, sclaiter, after ane maist slanderous
manner, the said Marion was ordained to go to the
place of her offence, confess her sin, and crave
mercy of God,” and never to be found within the
bounds of North Leith, “under the pain of putting
her toties puoh’es in the jogis,” Le., jougs.
In 1609 Patrick Richardson had to crave mercy
of God for being found in his boat in time of
afternoon sermon ; and many other instances of the
same kind are quoted by Robertson in his “Antiquities.”
In the same year, Janet Walker, accused
of having strangers (visitors) in her house on Sabbath
in time of sermon, had to confess her offence, and
on her knees crave mercy of God and the Kirk
Session, under penalty of a hundred pounds Scots !
George Wishart, so well known as author of the
elegant ‘‘ Latin Memoirs of Montrose,” a copy of
which was suspended at the neck of that great
cavalier and soldier at his execution in 1650, was
appointed minister of North Leith in 1638, when
the signing of the Covenant, as a protection against
England and the king, became almost necessarily
the established test of faith and allegiance to Scotland.
Deposed for refusing to subscribe it,
Wishart was thrown into a dungeon of the old
Heart of Midlothian, in consequence of the discovery
of his secret correspondence with the king‘s
party. He survived the storm of the Civil Wars,
and was made Bishop of Edinburgh on the reestablishment
of episcopacy.
He died in 1671, in his seventy-first year, and
was buried in Holyrood, where his tomb is still to
be seen, with an inscription so long that it amounts
to a species of biography.
John Knox, minister of North Leith, was, in 1684,
committed to the Bass Rock. While a probationer,
he was in the Scottish army, and chaplain to the
garrison in Tantallon when it was besieged by
Cromwell’s troops. He conveyed the Earl of
Angus and some ladies privately in a boat to
North Berwick, and returned secretly to the Castle,
and was taken prisoner when it capitulated. He
was a confidant of the exiled monarch, and supplied
him with money. A curious mendicant letter to
him from His Majesty is given in the “Scots
Worthies.”
4 The last minister who officiated in the Church
of St. Ninian-now degraded to a granary or store
-was the venerable Dr. Johnston, the joint founder
of the Edinburgh Blind Asylum, who held the incumbency
for more than half a century. The old
edifice had become unsuited to modem requirements
; thus the foundation of a new parish church
for North Leith had been completed elsewhere in
1816, and on the zgthof August in that year he took
a very affecting leave of the old parish church in
which he had officiated so long.
‘‘ He expressed sentiments of warm attachment
to a flock among which Providence had so long
permitted him to minister,” says the Scofs Magazine
(Vol. LXXVII.); “and in alluding, with much
feeling, to his own advanced age, mentioned his
entire sensibility of the approach of that period
when the speaker and the hearer should no longer
dwell together, and hoped they should ultimately
rejoice in ‘ a house not made with hands, eternal
in the heavens.’ ’’
Before ten a.m. on the 1st September a great
crowd collected before the door of the new church,
which was speedily filled. All corporate bodies
having an interest in it, including the magistrates
of the Canongate, were present, and Dr. Johnston,
after reading the 6th chapter of z Chronicles,
delivered a sermon and solemn address, which
affected all who heard it.
The Rev. David Johnston, D.D., died on the
5th of July, 1824, aged ninety-one years.
Four years after, the Cowant had the following
announcement :-“ The public are aware of the
many claims which the late Dr. Johnston of North
Leith had on the grateful remembrance of the
community. Few men have exerted themselves so
assiduously in forwarding the great objects of religion
and philanthropy, and it gives us much pleasure
to learn that a, well-merited tribute to his memory
has just been completed in the erection of a beautiful
bust in the church of North Leith. The follow ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Leith. The first volume of the ‘‘ Parochial Records ” begins in January, 1605, a year ...

Vol. 6  p. 254 (Rel. 0.29)

‘The West Chum.: MR. ROBER’T PONT. 13x1
CHAPTER XVIII.
THE CHURCH OF ST. CUTHBERT.
Iiirtory and Antiquity-Old Views of it Described-First Protestant Incumbeqts-The Old hlanse-Old Communion Cups-Pillaged by Cmmwdi
-Ruined by the Siege of 1689, and again in ~g+~-Deaths of Messrs. McVicar and Pitcairn-Early Body-snatchem-Demolition of the Old
Church-Erection of the Ncw-Cax of Heart-bud-Old Tombs and Vaults-The Nisbets of Deau-The Old Poor How-Kirkbraehud
Road-Lothian Road-Dr. Candlish’s Church-Military Academy-New Caledonian Railway Station.
IN the hollow or vale at the end of which the North
Loch lay there stands one of the most hideous
churches in Edinbutgh, known as the West Kirk,
occupying the exact site of the Culdee Church of
St. Cuthbert, the parish of which was the largest
in Midlothian, and nearly encircled the whole of
the city without the walls. Its age was greater than
that of any record in Scotland. It was supposed
to have been built in the eighth century, and was
dedicated to St. Cuthbert, the Bishop of Durham,
who died on the 20th of March, 687.
In Gordon of Rothiemay‘s bird‘s-eye view it
appears a long, narrow building, with one transept
or aisle, on the south, a high square tower of three
storeys at the south-west corner, and a belfry.
The burying-ground is square, with rows of trees
to the westward. On the south of the buryingground
is a long row of two-storeyed houses, with a
gate leading to the present road west of the Castle
rock, and another on the north, leading to the
pathway which yet exists up the slope to Princes
Street, from which point it long was known as the
Kirk Loan to Stockbridge.
A view taken in 1772 represents it as a curious
assorlment of four barn-like masses of building,
having a square spire of five storeys in height in
the centre, and the western end an open ruinthe
western kirk-with a bell hung 011 a wooden
frame. Northward lies the hare open expznse, or
ridge, whereon the first street of the new town was
built.
After the Reformation the first incumbent settled
here would seem to have been a pious tailor, named
William Harlow, who was born in the city about
1500, but fled to England, where he obtained
deacon’s orders and became a preacher during the
reign of Edward VI. On the death of the, latter,
and accession of Mary, he was compelled to seek
refuge in Scotland, and in 1556 he began “pub
,licly to exhort in Edinburgh,” for which he was
excommunicated by the Catholic authorities, whose
days were numbered now; and four years after,
when installed at St. Cuthbert‘s, ’ Mr. Harlow attended
the meeting of the first General Assembly,
held in Edinburgh on the 20th of December, 1560.
He died in 1578, but four years before that event
Mr. Robert Pont, afterwards ah eminent judge and
miscellaneous writer, was ordained to the ministry
of St. Cuthbert’s in his thirtieth year, at the time
he was, with others, appointed by the Assembly
to revise all books that were printed and published.
About the saiiie period he drew up the Calendar,
and framed the rule to understaqd it, for Arbuthnot
and Bassandyne’s famous edition of the Bible. In .
1571 he had been a Lord of Session and Provost
of the Trinity College.
On Mr. Pont being transferred in 1582, Mr.
Nicol Dalgleish came in his place ; but the former,
being unable to procure a stipend, returned to his
old charge, conjointly with his successor. IVhen
James VI. insidiously began his attempts to introduce
Episcopacy, Mr. Pont, a zealous defender of
Presbyterianism, with two other ministers, actually
repaired to the Parliament House, with the design
of protesting for the rights of the Church in the face
of the Estates; but finding the doors shut against
them, they repaired to the City Cross, and when
the obnoxious “Black Acts ” were proclaimed, pub.
licly denounced them, and then fled to England,
followed by most of the clergy in Edinburgh.
Meanwhile Nicol Dalgleish, for merely praying
for them, was tried for his life, and acquitted, but
he was indicted anew for corresponding with the
rebels, because he had read a letter which one of
the banished ministers had sent to his wife. For
this fault sentence of death was passed upon him ;
but though it was not executed, by a refinement of
cruelty the scaffold on which he expected to die was
kept standing for several weeks before the windows
of his prison.
While Mr. Pont remained a fugitive, William
Aird, a stonemason, “ an extraordinary witness,
stirred cp by God,” says Calderwood, ‘Land
mamed, learned first of his wife to speak English,”
was appointed, in the winter of 1584, colleague to
Mr. Dalgleish, who, on the return of Mr. Pont in
1585, “ was nominated to the principality of Aberdeen.”
Aware
of the igqorance of most of their parishioners concerning
the doctrines of the Protestant faith, and
that many had no faith- whatever, they offered to
devote the forenoon of every Thursday to public
tzaching, and to this end a meeting was held on
Pont’s next colleague was Mr. Aird. ... West Chum.: MR. ROBER’T PONT. 13x1 CHAPTER XVIII. THE CHURCH OF ST. CUTHBERT. Iiirtory and Antiquity-Old ...

Vol. 3  p. 131 (Rel. 0.29)

58 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [~dpUCd.
proper exertions been made for their repair and
preservation, particularly by the Bishop o€ Orkney,
and ere it shrank to the proportions of a chapel.
But even when the Reformation was in full progress
the following entry appears in the accounts of the
Lord High Treasurer, under date the 8th February,
1557-8 :-A36 “to David Melville, indweller in
,Leith, for ane pair of organs to the chapel in the
palace of Holyroodhouse.”
The remains of George Earl of Huntly, who
was slain at the battle of Corrichie, when he was
in rebellion against the Crown, were brought by
sea to Edinburgh in 1562, and kept all winter
unburied in the Abbey of Holyrood-most proba,
bly in the church. Then an indictment for high
treason was exhibited against him in the month
of May following, “eftir that he was deid and departit
frae this mortal lyfe,” and the corpse was
laid before Parliament : in this instance showing
the rancour of party and the absurdity of old feudal
laws.
It was somewhere about this time that the new
royal vault was constructed in the south aisle ol
the nave, and the remains of the kings and queens
were removed from their ancient resting-place near
the high altar. It is built against the ancient
Norman doorway of the cloisters, which still remains
externally, with its slender shafts and beautiful
zigzag mouldings of the days of David I. “The
cloisters,” says Wilson, ‘‘ appear to have enclosed
a large court, formed in the angle of the nave and
transept. The remains of the north are clearly
traceable still, and the site of the west side is occupied
by palace buildings. Here was the ambulatory
for the old monks, when the magnificent
foundation of St. David retained its pristine splendour,
and remained probably till the burning of
the abbey after the death of James V.2 who was
buried there beside his first queen in December
1542, and his second son, Arthur Duke of Albany,
a child eight days old, who died at Stirling.
In the royal vault also lie the remains of David
11. ; Prince Arthur, third son of James IV., who
died in the castle, July 15th, 1510, aged nine
months ; Henry, Lord Darnley, murdered 1567 j
and Jane, Countess of Argyle, who was at supper
with her sister, the queen, on the night of Rizzio’s
assassination. “ Dying without issue, she was enclosed
in one of the richest coffins ever seen in
Scotland, the compartments and inscriptions being
all of solid gold.” In the same vault were de.
posited the remains of the Duchess de Grammont,
who died an exile at Holyrood in 1803 ; and, in
the days of Queen Victoria, the remains of Mary of
Gueldres, queen of James 11.
’
Among the altars in thechurchwere two dedicated
to St. Andrew and St. Catharine, a third dedicated
to St. Anne by the tailors of Edinburgh, and a
fourth by the Cordiners to St. Crispin, whose
statutes were placed upon it.
On the 18th of June, 1567, two days after the
imprisonment of Queen Mary, the Earl of Glencairn
and others, “with a savage malignity, laid waste
this beautiful chapel,” broke in pieces its most
valuable furniture, and laid its statues and other
ornaments in ruins.
On the 18th of June, 1633, Charles I. was
crowned with great pomp in the abbey church and
amid the greatest demonstrations of loyalty, when
the silver keys of the city were delivered to him by
the Provost, after which they were never again
presented to a monarch until the time of George
IV. : but afterwards the religious services were
performed at Holyrood with great splendour, according
to the imposing ritual of the English
Church-“ an innovation which the Presbyterians
beheld with indignation, as an insolent violation of
the laws of the land”
In 1687 the congregation of the Canongate were
removed from the church by order of James VII.,
and the abbey church-now named a chapelwas
richly decorated, and twelve stalls were placed
therein for the Knights of the Thistle. An old view
of the interior by Wyck and Mazell, taken prior
to the fall of the roof, represents it entire, with all
its groining and beautiful imperial crowns and
coronets on the drooping pendants of the interlaced
arches. They show the clerestory entire,
and within the nave the stalls of the knights, six
on each side. Each of these stalls had five steps,
and on each side a Corinthian column supported
an entablature of the same order, each surmounted
by two great banners and three trophies, each
composed of helmets and breastplates, making in
all twenty-four banners and thirty-six trophies over
the stalls. At the eastern end was the throne,
surmounted by an imperial crown. On each side
were two panels, having the crown, sword, and
sceptre within a wreath of laurel, and below, other
two panels, with the royal cypher, J.R., and the
crown. Wyck and Mazell show the throne placed
upon a lofty dais of seven steps, on six of which
were a unicorn and lion, making six of the former
on the right, and six of the latter on the left, all
crowned. Behind this rose a Corinthian canopy,
entablature, and garlands, all of carved oak, and
over all the royal arms as borne in Scotland ; the
crest of Scotland, the lion sejant; on the right the
ensign of St. Andrew; In defence on the left the ensign
of St. George. Amid a star of spears, swords, ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [~dpUCd. proper exertions been made for their repair and preservation, particularly by ...

Vol. 3  p. 58 (Rel. 0.29)

Manor Place.] HAYMARKET STATION. 213
A shot fired from the belfry apprised the multi-
&de far down below of the close of the ceremony,
and immediately the choir, along with other officials
of ‘the church in surplices stationed in the garden,
sung the hymn “Praise ye the Lord, ye Heavens
in the nave and clerestory bear the arms of many
ancient Scottish families,
Away to the westward of the quarter we have
described, at the delta of the old Glasgow and
Dalry roads, where for several generations stood
ST. MAPY7S CATHEDRAL, INTERIOR VIEW. (Fpom a Phofosrnph by G. W. Wikm ad Co., ACrdem.)
by the Lord Provost.
Sir Gilbert Scott did not live to see the completion
of this cathedral, which is one of the many
lasting monuments of his skill as an architect.
Among the gifts to the cathedral are a peal of ten
bells presented by Dean Montgomery ; the great
from Glasgow by wings upon the two roads, formed
a junction and halted, while the officers had breakfast
or dinner before pushing on to the Castle by
the Lang Dykes and latterly by Princes Street and ,
the Earthern Mound-is the Haymarket Railway
Station, the first or original terminus of the Edin ... Place.] HAYMARKET STATION. 213 A shot fired from the belfry apprised the multi- &de far down below of ...

Vol. 4  p. 213 (Rel. 0.28)

Leith.] ST. JAMES’S CHAPEL. 243
CHAPTER XXVII.
LEITH-CONSTITUTION STREET, THE SHORE, COAL HILL, AND SHERIFF BRAE.
Constitution Street-Pirates Executed-St. James’s Episcopal Church-Town H a l l S t . John’s Church-Exchange Buildings-Head-quarten of
the Leith Rifle Volunteen4ld Signal-Tower-The Shore-Old and New Ship Taverns--The Markets-The Coal Hill-Ancient Council
House-The Peat Ne&-Shim Bme-Tibbie Fowler of the Glen-St. Thomas’s Church and Asylum-The Gladstone Family-Creat
Junction Road.
CONSTITUTION STREET, which lies parallel to, and
eastward of the Kirkgate, nearly in a line with the
eastern face of the ancient fortifications, is about
2,500 feet in lehgth, and soon after its formation
was the scene of the last execution within what is
termed (‘ flood-mark.” The doomed prisoners were
two foreign seamen, whose crime and sentence
excited much interest at the time.
Peter Heaman and Francois Gautiez were accused
of piracy and murder in seizing the briglane
of Gibraltar, on her voyage from that place to
the Brazils, freighted with a valuable cargo, including
38,180 Spanish dollars, and in barbarously
killing Johnson the master, and Paterson a seaman,
and confining Smith and Sinclair, two other
seamen, in the forecastle, where they tried to suffocate
them with smoke, but eventually compelled
them to assist in navigating the vessel, which they
. afterwards sank off the coast of Ross-shire. They
landed the specie in eight barrels on the Isle of
Lewis, where they were apprehended.
This was in thesummer of 1822, and they were,
after a trial before the Court of Justiciary, sentenced
by the Judge-Admiral to be executed on the 9th of
’ the subsequent January, “on the sands of Leith,
within the flood-mark, and their bodies to be afterwards
given to Dr. Munro for dissection.”
On the day named they were conveyed from the
Calton gaol, under a strong escort of the dragoon
.guards, accompanied by the magistrates of the city,
who had white rods projecting from the windows of
the carriages in which they sat, to a gibbet erected
‘ at the foot of Constitution Street-oi raiher, the
. northern continuation thereof-and there hanged.
Heaman was a native of Carlscrona, in Sweden ;
Gautiez wa8 a Frenchman. The bodies were put
4 in coffins, and conveyed by a corporal’s escort of
’ dragoons to the rooms of the professor of anatomy.
During the execution the great bell of South Leith
church was ttilled with minute strokes, and the
papers of the day state that “ the crowd of spectators
was immense, particularly cn the sands, being little
short of from forty to fifty thousand; but, owing to
the excellent manner in which everything was
In 1823 the same thoroughfare witnessed another
legal punishment, when Thomas Hay, who had
- arranged, not the slightest accident happened.”
been tried and convicted of an attempt at assassination,
was flogged through the town by the common
executioner, and banished for fourteen years.
Between Constitution Street and the Links stands
St. James’s Episcopalian church, an ornate edifice
in the Gothic style, designed by Sir Gilbert Scott,
having a fine steeple, containing a chime of bells,
It was built in 1862-3, succeeding a previous chapel
of 1805 (erectedatthe cost ofx1,6ro)on an adjacent
site (of which a view is given on p. 240), and to which
attention was frequently drawn from the literary
celebrity of its minister, Dr. Michael Russell, the
author of a continuation o€ Prideaux’s Connection
of Sacred and Profane History,” and other works.
According to h o t , the congregation had an origin
that was not uncommon in the eighteenth century,
when the persecution
was set on foot against those of the Episcopal
communion in Scotland who did not take the
oaths required by law, the meeting-house in Leith
was shut up by the sheriff of the county. Persons
of this persuasion being thus deprived of the form
of worship their principles approved, brought from
the neighbouring country Mr. John Paul, an English
clergyman, who opened this chapel on the 23rd
June, 1749. It is called St. James’s chapel. Till
of late the congregation only rented it, but within
these few years they purchased it for Azoo. The
clergyman has about L60 a year salary, and the
organist ten guineas. These are paid out of the
seat rents, collections, and voluntary contributions
among the hearers. It is, perhaps, needless to add
that there are one or more meeting-houses for
sectaries in this place (Leith), for in Scotland there
are few towns, whether of importance! or insighificant,
whether populous or otherwise, where there
are not congregations of sectaries.”
The congregation of St. James’s chapel received,
in about the year 1810, the accession of a nonjuring
congregation of an earlier date, says a writer
in 1851, referring, doubtless, to that formed in the
time of the Rev. Mr. Paul.
The Leith Post Office is at the corner of Mitchell
and Constitution Streets; it was built in 1876, is
very small, and in a rather meagre Italian style.
The Town Hall, which is at the corner of Constitution
and Charlotte Streets, was built in 1827, at a
After the battle of Culloden, ... ST. JAMES’S CHAPEL. 243 CHAPTER XXVII. LEITH-CONSTITUTION STREET, THE SHORE, COAL HILL, AND SHERIFF ...

Vol. 6  p. 243 (Rel. 0.28)

Luriston.1 GEORGE HERIOT. 363
diameter and 22 feet high; one school-room, 52
feet long by 26 wide ; and two others of 42 feet by
24; with, on the upper floors, the nursery, bed-rooms,
music, store and governesses’ rooms. The building
was opened in 1819, and two years after contained
80 girls, its annual revenue being then about
E3,ooo sterling.
In 187 I another hospital for the girls was erected
elsewhere, and the edifice described was appropriated
for the use of George Watson’s College
Schools, with an entrance from Archibald Place.
The design of these schools is to provide boys
with a liberal education, qualifying them for CMrnercial
or professional life, and for the universities.
Their course of study includes the classics,
English, French, and German, and all the other
usual branches of a most liberal education, together
with chemistry, drill, gymnastics, and fencing. The
number of foundationers has Seen reduced to 60,
at least one fourth of whom are elected by competitive
examination from boys attending this and the
other schools of the Merchant Company, and boys
attending these schools have the following benefits,
viz. I : A presentation to one of the foundations of
this, or Stewart’s Hospital, tenable for six years j
2. A bursary, on leaving the schools of 6 . 5 yearly
for four years.
The foundationers are boarded in a house belonging
to the governors, with the exception of
those who are boardedwith families in the city.
When admitted, they must be of the age of nine,
and not above fourteen years. On leaving each is
allowed f;7 for clothes; he may rsceive for five
years LIO annually; and on attaining the age of
twenty-five a further sum of A50, to enable him
to commence business in Edinburgh.
The Chalmers Hospital, at the south side of the
west end of huriston Place, is a large edifice, in a
plain Italian style, and treats annually about 180
in-door, and over 2,500 out-door patients. It was
erected in 1861. George Chalmers, a plumber
in Edinburgh, who died on the 10th of March,
1836, bequeathed the greater part of his fortune,
estimated at ~30,000, for the erection and the
endowment of this ;‘Hospital for the Sick and
Hurt.”
The management of the charity is in the hands
of the ,Dean and Faculty of Advocates, who, after
allowing the fund to accumulate for some years, in
conformity to the will of the founder, erected the
building, which was fully opened for patients in
1864; and adjoining it is the new thoroughfare
called Chalmers Street.
The Lauriston Place United Presbyterian church,
a large and handsome Gothic structure at the
corner of Portland Place, was built in 1859 ; and
near it, in Lauriston Gardens, is theCatholic convent
of St. Catharine of Sienna-the same saint to
whom the old convent at the Sciennes was devoted-
built in 1859, by the widow of Colonel
Hutchison. It is in the regular collegiate style,
and the body of the foundress is interred in the
grounds attached to it, where stands an ancient
thorn-tree coeval with the original convent
CHAPTER XLIII.
GEORGE HERIOT’S HOSPITAL AND THE GREYFRIARS CHURCH.
Notice of George Heriot-Dies Chiidless-His Will-The Hospital founded-I& Progrw-The Master Masons-Opened-Number of Scholars
-Dr. Balcanquall-Alterations-The Edifice-The Architecture of it-Heriot’s Day and Infant Schools in the City-Lunardik Balloon
Ascent-Royai Edinburgh Volunteers-The Heriot Brewery-Old Greyfriars Church-The Covenant-The CromwcllLms-The Conrunting
Prhonern-The Martyrs’ Tomb-New Greyfriars-Dr. Wallace-Dr. Robertson-Dr. ErskinAld Tombs in the Chorch-Gmt by
Queen Mary-Morton Interred-State of the Ground in 177g-The Graves of Buchanan and others--Bona from St Gda’s Church.
AMONG the many noble charitable institutions of
which Edinburgh may justly feel proud one of the
most conspicuous is Heriot’s Hospital, on the
north side of Lahriston-an institution which, in
object and munificence. is not unlike the famous
Christ’s Hospital in the English metropolis.
Of the early history of George Heriot, who, as a
jeweller and goldsmith was the favourite and
humble friend of James VI. and who was immortalised
in one way by Scott in the “Fohnes of
Nigel,’.’ but scanty records remain,
He is said to have been a branch of the Heriots
of Trabroun, in East Lothian, and was born at
Edinburgh in June, 1563, during the reign of
Mary, and in due time he was brought up to the
profession of a goldsmith by his father, one of the
craft, and a man of some consideration in the city,
for which he sat as Commissioner more thanonce
in Parliament. A jeweller named George Heriot,
who was frequently employed by Jarnes V., as the
Treasury accounts show, was most likely the elder
Heriot, to whose business he added that of a
. ... GEORGE HERIOT. 363 diameter and 22 feet high; one school-room, 52 feet long by 26 wide ; and two ...

Vol. 4  p. 363 (Rel. 0.28)

the neighbouring .collegiate church, to a brewer’s
granary and spirit vault ! The ground floor had
been entirely re-paved with hewn stone ; but over
a large window on the first floor there was a sculptured
lintel, which is mentioned by Arnot as having
TAILORS’ HALL, COWGATE.
interesting remains, so characteristic of the obsolete
faith and habits of a former age, afforded undoubted
evidence of the importance of this building in early
times, when it formed a part of the extensive
collegiate establishment of St. Mary-in-the-Fields
bore the following inscription, cut in beautiful and
very early characters :-
‘‘?itbe Baria, gratia pkna, lomfnus tecum.”
A most beautiful Gothic niche was in the front of
this Suilding. “ It is said to have stood originally
over the main gateway,” he continues, above the
carved lintel we have described, and without a
the wealthy citizens of the capital. To complete
the ecclesiastical feature of this ancient edifice, a
boldly-cut shield on the lower crowstep bore the
usual monogram of our Saviour, I.H.S., and the
window presented the common feature of broken
mullions and transoms with which they had been
originally divided.” ... neighbouring .collegiate church, to a brewer’s granary and spirit vault ! The ground floor had been entirely ...

Vol. 4  p. 252 (Rel. 0.28)

CONTENTS.
- --
CHAPTER I
THE KIRK OF ST. MARY-IN-THE-FIELDS.
YhCD
Memorabilia of the Edifice-Its Age-Altars-Made Collegiate-The Prebendal Buildings-Ruined-The House of the KW-of Field-The
Murder of Darnley-Robert Balfour, the Last Pmvost . . . . . . . . . . . . . . , . . I
CHAPTER 11.
T H E UNIVERSITY.
A n ~ l s of the Old Co:lege-Chartem of Queen Mary and James VI.-OM College described-The lirst Regems-King Jdmes’s Letter of
1617-Quarrel with Town Council-Students’ IZlot in 1 6 b T h e Principal Dismissed-Abolished Offices-Dissection for the first
time-Quarrel with the Town Council-The Museum-The Greek Chair-System of Education introduced by Principal Rollock-The
Early Mode of Education-A Change in r7jo-The Old Hours of Attendance-The Silver Mace-The Projects of 1763 and 1789 for a
New College-The Foundation laid-Completion of the New College-Its Corporatiop after ~8~&-Pnnapal.-Chairs, and First
Holders thereof-Afew Notable Bequests-Income-The Library-The Museums . . . , . . . . . . . 8
CHAPTEK 111.
THE DISTRICT OF THE BURGHMUIR.
The Muster by James 111.-Eurghmuir feued by James 1V.-Muster before Flodden-Relics thereof-The Pest--The Skirmish of Lowsie
Low-A Duel in 17zz-Valleyfreld House and Lmen Lodge-Barclay Free Church-Bruntsfield Links and the Golf Clubs . . . 27
CHAPTER IV.
DISTRICT OF THE BURGHMUIR (concZrr&d).
Morningside and Tipperlin-Provost Coulter’s Funeral-Asylum for the Insane-Sultana of the Crimea4ld Thorn Tree-The Braids of that
Ilk-The FairleF of Braid-The Plew Lands-Craiglockhart Hall and House-The Kincaib and other Proprieto-John Hill Burton-
The Old Tower-Meggatland and Redhan-White House Loan-The White House-St. Margaret’s Convent-Bruntsfield House-The
Warrenders-Greenhill and the Fairholm-Memorials of the Chapel of SL Roque-St. Giles’s Grange-The Dicks and Lauders-
Grange Cemetery-Memorial Churches , . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3:
CHAPTER V.
THE DISTRICT OF NEWINGTON.
The Causewayside-Summerhall-Clerk Street Chapel and other Churches-Literary Institute-Mayfield Loan-Old Houses-Fre Church-
The Powbnrn-Fernde Blind Asylum-Chapel of St. John the Baptist-Dominican Convent at the Sciennes-Scienns Hill House-Scott
and Burns meet-New Trades Maiden Hospital-Hospital for Incurables-Pratonfield House--The Hamiltons and Dick-Cunninghams
--Cemetery at Echo Bnnk-lhe Lands of Gmemn-Craigmillar-Dption of the Castle- James V., Queen Mary, and Damlev.
wraentthere-QueenMary’sTree--ThePrestonsandGilmours-PeBerMillHo~~. ... -- CHAPTER I THE KIRK OF ST. MARY-IN-THE-FIELDS. YhCD Memorabilia of the Edifice-Its ...

Vol. 6  p. 393 (Rel. 0.28)

307 - Trinity.] EASTER AND WESTER PILTON.
Now Trinity possesses a great number of handsome
villas in intersecting streets, a railway station,
and an Episcopal chapel called Christ Church,
which figured in a trial before the law courts of
Scotland, that made much noise in its time-the
Yelverton case.
At Wardie, not far from it, there died, in only
his thirty-eighth year, Edward Forbes, who, after
being a Professor in King’s College, London, was
appointed to the chair of Natural History in the
University of Edinburgh in May, 1854. He was
a man of distinguished talent and of an affectionate
nature, his last words being “ My own wife 1 ” when
she inquired, as he was dying, if he knew her.
Soon after she contracted a marriage with the
Hon. Major Yelverton, whose battefy of artillery
had just returned from Sebastopol, and was
quartered in Leith Fort. The marriage took place
in the little church at Trinity, and was barely
announced before the Major was arrested on a
charge of bigamy by the late Miss Theresa Longworth,
with whom he had contracted, it was
averred, an irregular marriage in Edinburgh. Before
this she had joined the Sisters of Chanty at T’arna,
and lived a life of adventure. Not satisfied with the
Scottish marriage, they went through another ceremony
before a Catholic priest in Ireland, where the
ceremony was declared legal, and she was accepted
as Mrs. Yelverton. She then endeavoured to
prove a Scottish marriage, by habit and repute, residence
at Circus Place, and elsewhere, but judgment
was given against her by the late Lord Ardmillan,
and after twenty years of wandering all over the
world, writing books of travel, she died at Natal in
September, 1881, retaining to the last the title of
Viscountess, acguired on old Lord Avonmore’s
death.
Horatio Macculloch, R.S.A., the well-known
landscape painter, lived latterly in a villa adjoining
Trinity Grove, and died there on the 15th June,
1867.
In 1836 some plans were prepared by Messrs.
Grainger and Miller, the eminent Edinburgh engineers,
and boldly designed for the construction of
a regular wet dock at Trinity, with a breakwater
outer harbour of twenty acres in extent, westward
of Newhaven pier and the sunken rock known as
the West Bush ; but the proposal met with no support,
and the whole scheme was abandoned.
On the noble road leading westward to
Queensfeny there was completed in April, 1880,
near the head of the Granton thoroughfare, a
Free Church for the congregation of Granton and
Wardie, which, since its organisation in 1876, under
the Rev. P. C. Purves, had occupied an iron building
near Wardie Crescent. The edifice is an ornament
to the swiftly-growing locality. The relative
proportions of the nave, aisles, and transepts, are
planned to form a ground area large enough tg
accommodate the increasing congregation, and
galleries can be added if required. This area is
nearly all within the nave, and is lighted by the
windows of the clerestory, which has flying buttresses.
The style is Early English, the pulpit is of
oak on a stone pedestal. This church has a tower
seventy-five feet high, and arrests the eye, as it
stands on a species of ridge between the city and
the sea.
Ashbrook, Wardieburn House, and other handsome
mansions, have been erected westward, and
ere long the old farmsteading of Windlestrawlee
(opposite North Inverleith Mains) will, of course,
disappear. It is called ‘‘ Winliestraley ” in Kincaid’s
‘‘ Local Gazetteer” for 1787, and is said to take its
name from ‘‘ windlestrae (the name given to crested
dogstail grass- Cynosurus prisfatus), and applied
in Scotland to bent and stalks of grass found OII
moorish ground.”
An old property long known as Cargilfield, lay to
the north-east of it, and to the westward are Easter
and Wester Pilton, an older property still, which
has changed owners several times.
On the 16th of May, 1610, Peter Rollock, of
Pilton, had a seat on the bench as Lord Pilton.
He had no predecessor. He had been removed,
when Bishop of Dunkeld (in 1603), says Lord
Hailes, that the number of extraordinary lards
might be reduced to four, and he was restored by
the king’s letter, with a special proviso that this
should not be precedent of establishing a fifth extraordinary
lord. The lands-or a portion thereof
-afterwards became a part of the barony of Royston,
formed in favour of Viscount Tarbet; but
previous to that had been in possession of a family
named Macculloch, as Monteith in his “ Theatre
of Mortality,” inserts the epitaph upon the tomb on
the east side of the Greyfriars Church, of Sir Hugh
Macculloch, of Pilton, Knight, descended from the
ancient family of Macculloch of CadbolI. He died
in August, 1688, and the stone was erected by his
son James. About I 780 Pilton became the property
of Sir Philip Ainslie, whose eldest daughter Jean
was married there, in 1801, to Lord Doune, eldest
son of the Earl of Moray-a marriage that does not
appear in the “Peerages ” generally, but is recorded
in the Edinburgh HeruZd for that year. She was his
second wife, the first being a daughter of General
Scott of Bellevue and Balcomie. Lord Doune
then resided, and for a few years before, in the old
Wrightshouse, or ‘‘ Bruntsfield Castle,” as it is ... - Trinity.] EASTER AND WESTER PILTON. Now Trinity possesses a great number of handsome villas in intersecting ...

Vol. 6  p. 307 (Rel. 0.28)

I18 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Corstorphine.
of the House of Orkney. He is represented in
armour of the fifteenth century (but the head has
been struck OK); she, in a dress of the same
period, with a breviary clasped in her hands. The
other monument is said to represent the son of
the founder and his wife, whose hands are represented
meekly crossed upon her bosom. Apart
lies the tomb of a supposed crusader, in the south
transept, with a dog at his feet. Traditionally this
is said to be the resting-place of Bernard Stuart,
Lord Aubigny, who came from France as Ambassador
to the Court of James IV., and died in the
adjacent Castle of Corstorphine in 1508. But the
altar tomb is of a much older date, and the shield
has the three heraldic horns of the Forresters duly
stringed. One shield impaled with Forrester, bears
the fesse cheque of Stuart, perhaps for Marian
Stewart, Lady Dalswinton.
It. has been said there are few things more
impressive than such prostrate effigies as these-so
few in Sdotland now-on the tombs of those who
were restless, warlike, and daring in their times;
and the piety of their attitudes contrasts sadly with
the mockery of the sculptured sword, shield, and
mail, and with the tenor of their characters in life.
The cutting of the figures is sharp, and the
draperies are well preserved and curious. There
are to be traced the remains of a piscina and of a
niche, canopied and divided into three compartments.
The temporalities of the church were dispersed
at the Reformation, a portion fell into the
hands. of lay impropriators, and other parts to
educational and other ecclesiastical institutions.
In 1644 the old parish church was demolished,
‘ and the collegiate establishment, in which the
, minister had for some time previously been accustomed
to officiate, became from thenceforward the
only church of the parish.
In ancient times the greater part of this now fertile
district was 8 Swamp, the road through which
was both difficult and dangerous; thus a lamp
was placed at the east end of the church, for the
double purpose of illuminating the shrine of the
Baptist, and guiding the belated traveller through
the perilous morass. The expenses of this lamp
were defrayed by the produce of an acre of land
situate near Coltbndge, called the Lamp Acre to
this day, though it became afterwards an endowment
of the schoolmaster, At what time the kindly
lamp of St. John ceased to guide the wayfarer
by its glimmer is unknown ; doubtless it would be
at the time of the Reformation; but a writer in
1795 relates “ that it is not long since the pulley
for supporting it was taken down.”
Of the Forrester family, Wilson says in his
“ Reminiscences,” published in 1878, “ certainly
their earthly tenure, outside‘ of their old collegiate
foundation, has long been at an end. Of their
castle under Corstorphine Hill, and their town
mansion in the High Street of Edinburgh, not
one stone remains upon another. The very wynd
that so long preserved their name, where once
they flourished among the civic magnates, has
vanished.
“Of what remained of their castle we measured
the fragments of the foundations in 1848, and
found them to consist of a curtain wall, facing the
west, one hundred feet in length, flanked by two
round towers, each twentyone feet in diameter
externally. The ruins were then about seven feet
high, except a fragment on the south, about twelve
feet in height, with the remains of an arrow hole.”
Southward and eastward of this castle there lay
for ages a great sheet of water known as Corstorphine
Loch, and so deep was the Leith in those
days, that provisions, etc., for the household were
brought by boat from the neighbourhood of Coltbridge.
Lightfoot mentions that the Loch of Corstorphine
was celebrated for the production of the
water-hemlock, a plant much more deadly than the
common hemlock,
The earliest proprietors of. Corstorphine traceable
are Thomas de Marshal and William de la
Roche, whose names are in the Ragman Roll
under date 1296. In the Rolls of David 11.
there was a charter to Hew Danyelstoun, “ of the
forfaultrie of David Marshal, Knight, except
Danyelstoun, which Thomas Carno got by gift,
and Llit lands of Cortorphing whilk Malcolm Ramsay
got” (Robertson’s “ Index.”)
They were afterwards possessed by the Mores of
Abercurn, from whom, in the time of Sir William
More, under King Robert II., they were obtained
by charter by Sir Adam Forrester, whose name
was of great antiquity, being deduced from the
office of Keeper of the King’s Forests, his armorial
bearings being three hunting horns. In that charter
he is simply styled “Adam Forrester, Burgess of
Edinburgh.” This was in 1377, and from thenceforward
Corstorphine became the chief title of
his family, though he was also Laird of Nether
Liberton.
Previous to this his name appears in the Burgh
Records as chief magistrate of Edinburgh, 24th
April, 1373 ; and in 1379 Robert 11. granted him
“twenty merks of sterlings from the custom of
the said burgh, granted to him in heritage by our
other letters . . . , until we, or our heirs,
infeft the said Adam, or his heirs, in twenty merks ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Corstorphine. of the House of Orkney. He is represented in armour of the fifteenth ...

Vol. 5  p. 118 (Rel. 0.27)

Holyrood.] ROYAT, MARRIAGES. 55
with the Dukes of Savoy and Burgundy. She
landed at Leith amid a vast concourse of all
classes of the people, and, escorted by a bodyguard
of 300 men-at-arms, all cap-d+e, with
the citizens also in their armour, under Patrick
Cockburn of Nevtbigging, Provost of Edinburgh
and Governor of the Castle, was escorted to the
monastery of the Greyfriars, where she was warmly
welcomed by her future husband, then in his
twentietb year, and was visited by the queenmother
on the following day.
The week which intervened between her arrival
and‘her marriage was spent in a series of magnificent
entertainments, during which, from her great
beauty and charms of manner, she won the devoted
affection of the loyal nobles and people.
A contemporary chronicler has given a minute
account of one of the many chivalrous tournaments
that took place, in which three Burgundian nobles,
two of them brothers named Lalain, and the thud
HervC Meriadet, challenged any three Scottish
knights to joust with lance, battle-axe, sword, and
dagger, a defiance at once accepted by Sir James
Douglas, James Douglas of Lochleven, and Sir
John Ross of Halkhead, Constable of Renfrew.
Lances were shivered and sword and axe resorted
to with nearly equal fortune, till the king threw
down his truncheon and ended the combat.
The royal marriage, which took place in the
church at Holyrood amid universal joy, concluded
these stirring scenes. At the bridal feast the first
dish was in the form of a boar’s head, painted and
stuck full df tufts of coarse flax, served up on an
enormous platter, with thirty-two banners, bearing
the arms of the king and principal nobles ; and the
flax was set aflame, amid the acclamations of the
numerous assembly that filled the banquet-hall.
Ten years after Holyrood beheld a sorrowful
scene, when, in 1460, James, who had been slain
by the bursting of a cannon at the siege of Roxburgh
on the 3rd August, in his thirtieth year, was
laid in the royal vault, “with the teares of his
people and his hail1 army,” says Balfour.
In 1467 there came from Rome, dated zznd
February, the bull of Pope Paul II., granting, on
the petition of the provost, bailies, and community
of the city, a con~mission to the Bishop of Galloway,
“et dilectojZio Abbafi Monasterii Sancta Cmcis mini
viuros de Rdynburgh,” to erect the Church of St.
Giles into a collegiate institution.
Two years afterwards Holyrood was again the
scene of nuptial festivities, when the Parliamen!
met, and Margaret of Norway, Denmark, and
Sweden, escorted by the Earl of Arran and a
gallant train of Scottish aad Danish nobles, landed
at Leith in July, 1469. She was in her sixteenth
year, and had as her dowry the isles of Orkney
and Shetland, over which her ancestors had hitherto
claimed feudal superiority. James III., her
husband, had barely completed his eighteenth
year when they were married in the abbey church,
where she was crowned queenconsort. ‘‘ The marriage
and coronation gave occasion to prolonged
festivities in the metropolis and plentiful congratulations
throughout the kingdom. Nor was the
flattering welcome undeserved by the queen ; in the
bloom of youth and beauty, amiable and virtuous,
educated in all the feminine accomplishments of
the age, and so richly endowed, she brought as
valuable an accession of lustre to the court as of
territory to the kingdom.”
In 1477 there arrived “heir in grate pompe,”
says Balfour, “Husman, the legate of Pope
Xystus the Fourth,” to enforce the sentence of
deprivation and imprisonment pronounced by Hjs
Holiness upon Patrick Graham, Archbishop of St.
Andrews, an eminent and unfortunate dignitary of
the Church of Scotland. He was the first who
bore that rank, and on making a journey to Rome,
returned as legate, and thus gained the displeasure
of the king and of the clergy, who dreaded his
power. He was shut up in the monastery of Inchcolm,
and finally in the castle of Lochleven. Meanwhile,
in the following year, William Schivez, a
great courtier and favourite of the king, was
solemnly consecrated in Holyrood Church by the
papal legate, from whose hands he received a pall,
the ensign of archiepiscopal dignity, and with great
solemnity was proclaimed ‘‘ Primate and Legate of
the realm of Scotland.” His luckless rival died
of a broken heart, and was buried in St. Serf‘s
Isle, where his remains were recently discovered,
buried in a peculiar posture, with the knees drawn
up and the hands down by the side.
In 1531, when Robert Cairncross was abbot,
there occurred an event, known as “ the miracle of
John Scott,” which made some noise in its time.
This man, a citizen of Edinburgh, having taken
shelter from his creditors in the sanctuary of Holyrood,
subsisted there, it is alleged, for forty days
without food of any kind.
Impressed by this circumstance, of which some
exaggerated account had perhaps been given to
him, James V. ordered his apparel to be changed
and strictly searched. He ordered also that he
should be conveyed from Holyrood to a vaulted
room in David‘s Tower in the castle, where he was
barred from access by all and closely guarded.
Daily a small allowance of bread and water were
placed before him, but he abstained from both for ... ROYAT, MARRIAGES. 55 with the Dukes of Savoy and Burgundy. She landed at Leith amid a vast concourse ...

Vol. 3  p. 55 (Rel. 0.27)

146 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [George Smn
could be done.” On leaving the church, the
protestors proceeded to Tanfield Hall, Canonmills,
where they formed themselves into “The General
Assembly of the Free Church of Scotland,” and
chose Thomas Chalmers, D.D., as their moderator;
so ‘‘ the bush burned, but was not consumed.”
It was a remarkable instance of the emphatic
assertion of religious principle in an age of
material things of which St. Andrew’s church was
the scene on the 18th of May. It was no sacrifice
of blood or life or limb that was exacted,
or rendered, as in the days of “a broken covenant
;” but it was one well calculated to excite
the keenest emotions of the people-for all these
clergymen, with their families, cast their bread upon
the waters, and those who witnessed the dark procession
that descended the long steep street towards
Tanfield Hall never forgot it.
Opposite this church there was built the old
Physicians’ Hall-the successor of the still more
ancient one near the Cowgate Port. The members
of that college feued from the city a large area,
extending between the south side of George Street
and Rose Street, on which they erected a very
handsome hall, with rooms and offices, from a
design by Mr. Craig, the architect of the new city
itself.
The foundation stone was laid by Professor
Cullen, long a distinguished ornament of the
Edinburgh University, on the 27th November, I 775,
after a long discussion concerning two other sites
offered by the city, one in George Square, the
other where now the Scott monument stands. In
the stone was placed a parchment containing the
names of the then fellows, several coins of 1771,
md a large silver medal. There was also another
silver medal, with the arms of the city, and an
inscription bearing that it had been presented by
the city to Mr. Craig, in compliment to his professional
talents in 1767, as follows :-
JACOBO CRAIG,
AHCHITECTO,
PROPTER OPT1 IM U M,
EDINBURGI NOVI
ICHNOGRAPHIUM,
D.D.
SENATUS,
EDINBURGENSIS,
MDCCLXVII.
This building, now numbered among the things
that were, had a frontage of eighty-four feet, and
had a portico of four very fine Corinthian columns,
standing six feet from the wall upon a flight of
steps seven feet above the pavement. The sunk
floor, which was all vaulted, contained rooms for the
librarian and other officials ; the entrance floor
consisted of four great apartments opening frcm a
noble vestibule, with a centre of thirty-five feet :
one was for the ordinary meetings of the college,
and another was an ante-chamber; but the principal
apartment was the library-a room upwards of
fifty feet long by thirty broad, lighted by two rows
of windows, five in each row, facing Rose Street,
and having a gilded gallery on three sides. On this
edifice A4,800 was spent.
In 1781, the library, which had been stored up
in the Royal Infirmary, was removed to the hall,
when the collection, which now greatly exceeds
6,000 volumes, was still comparatively in its
infancy. Dr. Archibald Stevenson was the first
librarian, and was appointed in 1683 ; in 1696 a
law was enacted that every entrant should contribute
at least one book to the library, which was
increased in 1705 “ by the purchase of the books
of the deceased Laird of Livingstone for about
300 merks Scots;” and the records show how year
by year the collection has gone on increasing in
extent, and in literary and scientific value.
The two oldest names on the list of Fellows
admitted are Peter Kello, date December IIth,
1682, and John Abernethy, whose diploma is
dated June gth, 1683, granted at Orange, and
admitted December qth, 1684, and a wonderful
roll follows of names renowned in tke annals of
medicine. The attempt to incorporate the practitioners
of medicine in Scotland, for the purpose
of raising alike the standard of their character and
acquirements, originated in 1617, when James VI.
issued an order in Parliament for the establishnient
of a College of Physicians in Edinburgh-an order
which recites the evils suffered by the community
from the intrusion of uhqualified practitioners. He
further suggested that three members of the proposed
college should yearly visit the apothecaries’
shops, and destroy all bad or insufficient drugs
found therein ; but the year 1630 came, and found
only a renewal of the proposal for a college,
referred to the Privy Council by Charles I. But
the civil war followed, and nothing more was done
till 1656, when Cromwell issued a patent, still extant,
initiating a college of physicians in Scotland,
with the powers proposed by James VI.
Years passed on, and by the opposition principally
of the College of Surgeons, the universities,
the municipality, and even the clergy, the charter
of incorporation was not obtained until 1681, when
the great seal of Scotland was appended to it on
St, Andrew’s day. Among other clauses therein
was one to enforce penalties on the unqualified
who practised medicine; another for the punishment
of all licentiates who might violate the laws ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [George Smn could be done.” On leaving the church, the protestors proceeded to ...

Vol. 3  p. 146 (Rel. 0.27)

kith.] THE CITADEL 2S7
General Monk no doubt used all the stones of
the two edifices in the erection of his citadel, which
is thus described by John Ray, in his Itinerary,
when he visited Scotland in the year 1661 :-
“ At Leith we saw one of those citadels built by
and stores. There is also a good capacious chapel,
the piazza, or void space within, as large as Trinity
College (Cambridge) great court.”
This important stronghold, which must have
measured at least 400 feet one way, by 250 the
NORTH LEITH CHURCH.
the Protector, one of the best fortifications we ever
beheld, passing fair and sumptuous. There are
three forts (bastions?) advanced above the rest,
and two platfomis ; the works round about are
faced with freestone towards the ditch, and are
almost as high as the highest buildings therein, and
withal, thick and substantial. Below are very pleasant,
convenient, and well-built houses, for the
governor, officers, and soldiers, and for magazines
other (and been in some manner adapted to the
acute angle of the old fortifications there), costing,
says Wilson, “upwards of LIOO,OOO sterling, fell a
sacrifice, soon after the Restoration, to the cupidity
of the monarch and the narrow-minded jealousy
of the Town Council of Edinburgh.”
All that remains of the citadel now are some old
buildings, called, perhaps traditionally, ‘‘ Cromwell’s
Barracks”-near which was found an old ... THE CITADEL 2S7 General Monk no doubt used all the stones of the two edifices in the erection of his ...

Vol. 6  p. 257 (Rel. 0.27)

LddI.1 JOHN
coat in which he rode, Dr. Carlyle turned a little
out of the road to procure from a clergyman of their
acquaintance the loan of a pair of saddlebags,
in which to deposit the MS.”
The latter was also rejected by Garrick, “with
the mortifying declaration that it was totally unfit
for the stage.” Yet it was brought out at Edinburgh
by Digges, on the 14th December, 1756,
and produced that storm of fanaticism to which
we have referred in a former part of this work. It
had a run then unprecedented, and though a rather
dull work, has maintained a certain popularity
almost to the present day.
To escape the censiires of the kirk, he resigned
HOME. 241
his living, and published several other tragedies;
and after the accession of George 111. to the
throne he received a pension of A300 per
annum. In 1763 he obtained the then sinecure
appointment of Conservator of Scottish Privileges
at Campvere (in succession to George Lind, Provost
of Edinburgh)] and also the office of Commissioner
for Sick and Wounded Seamen. In 1779 he removed
to Edinburgh, where he spent the latter
years of his life, and married a lady of his own
name, by whom he had no children.
Home’s ‘‘ Douglas” is now no longer regarded
as the marvel of genius it once was ; but the author
was acknowledged in his lifetime to be vain of it,
ST. JAMES’S EPISCOPALIAN CHURCH, 1882. (Affta a Pho#ogm#h by Nr.1. Clrapman.) ... JOHN coat in which he rode, Dr. Carlyle turned a little out of the road to procure from a clergyman of ...

Vol. 6  p. 241 (Rel. 0.27)

286 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Infirmary Street.
._
Freirs xx li. owing to them, at this last Fasterns
evin, for thair bell, conform to the act maid thairupon
” (Burgh Records).
In 1553 another Act ordains “John Smyson” to
pay them the sum “of xx li compleit payment of
thair silver bell;” and in 1554-5 in the Burgh Accounts
is the item-“To the Blackfriars and Greyfriars,
for their preaching yeirlie, ilk ane of thame
:elf ane last of sownds beir; price of ilk boll
xxviij s. summa, xvj li. xvj s.”
When John Knox, after his return to Scotland,
began preaching against the Mass as an idolatrous
worship, he was summoned before an ecclesiastical
judicatory held in the Blackfriars’ church on the
15th May, 1556. The case was not proceeded
with at the time, as a tumult was feared j but the
summons so greatly increased the power and popularity
of Knox, that on that very 15th of May he
preached to a greater multitude than he had ever
done before. In 1558 the populace attacked the
monastery and church, and destroyed everything
they contained, leaving the walls an open ruin.
In 1560 John Black, a Dominican friar, acted
as the permanent confessor of Mary of Guise,
during her last fatal illness in the Castle of Edmburgh,
and Knox in his history indulges in coarse
innuendoes concerning both. His name is still
preserved in the following doggerel verse :-
“ There was a certain Black friar, always called Black,
And this was no nickname, for bluck was his work ;
Of all the Black friars he was the blackest clerk,
Born in the Black Friars to be a black mark.’’
This Dominican, however, was a learned and
subtle doctor, a man of deep theological research,
who in 1561 maintained against John Willox the
Reformer, and ex-Franciscan, a defence of the
Roman Catholic faith for two successive days, and
gave him more than ordinary trouble to meet his
arguments. He was. afterwards stoned in the
streets “by the rabble,” on the 15th December,
or, as others say, the 7th of January.
By 1560 the stones of the Black Friary were
used “ for the bigging of dykes,” and other works
connected with the city. The cemetery was latterly
the old High School Yard, and therein a battery
of cannon was erected in 157 I to batter a house in
which the Parliament of the king‘s men held a
meeting, situated somewhere on the south side of
the Canongate.
The Dominican gardens, in which the dead
body of Darnley was found lying under a tree, and
their orchard, lay to the southward, and in 1513
were intersected, or bounded by the new city wall,
in which there remained-till July, 1854, when some
six hundred yards of it were demolished, and a
parapet and iron railing substituted-an elliptically
arched doorway, half buried in the pavement, three
feet three inches wide, and protected by a round
gun-port, splayed out four feet four inches wide.
Through this door the unscathed body of Darnley
must have been borne by his’murderers, ere they
blew up the house of the Kirk-of-field. It was
an interesting relic, and its removal was utterly
wanton.
The next old ecclesiastical edifice on the other
side of the street was Lady Yester‘s church, which
in Gordon’s map is shown as an oblong barn-like
edifice surrounded by a boundary wall, with a large
window in its western gable.
Lady Yester, a pious and noble dame, whose
name was long associated with ecclesiastical chGties
in Edinburgh, was the third daughter of Mark
Kerr, Commendator of Newbattle Abbey, a Lord of
Session, and founder of the house of Lothian. Early
in life she was married to James Lord Hay of Yester,
and hac! two sons, John Lord Yester, afterwards
Earl of Tweeddale, and Sk William, for whom she
purchased the barony of Linplum After being a
widow some years she married Sir Andrew Kerr
younger of Fernyhurst.
In 1644 she built the church at the south-east
corner of the High School Wynd, at the expense of
LI,OOO of the then money, with 5,000 merks for
the salary of the minister. It was seated for 817
persons, and in August, 1655, the Town Council
appointed a district of the city a parish for it.
Shortly before her death, Lady Yester “caused
joyne thereto an little isle for the use of the
minister, yr she lies interred.” This aisle is
shown by Gordon to have been on the north side
of the church, and Monteith (1704) describes the
following doggerel inscription on her ‘‘ tomb on the
north side of the vestiary” :-
“ It’s needless to erect a marble tomb : .
The daily bread that for the hungry womb,
And bread of life thy bounty hath provided
For hungry souls, all times to be divided ;
World-lasting monuments shall reare,
That shall endure, till Christ himself appear.
Posd was thy life, prepared thy happy end ;
Nothing in either was without commend.
Let it be the care of all who live hereafter,
To live and die, like Margaret Lady Yester.”
Who dyed 15th Match, 1647. Her age 75.
“Blessed are the dead, which die in the Lord ; they rest
from their labours, and their works do follow them.”-
Rev. xiv. 13.
After Cromwell’s troops rendered themselves
houseless in 1650 by burning Holyrood, quarters
were assigned them in the city churches, including
Lady Yester‘s; and in all of these, and part of the ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Infirmary Street. ._ Freirs xx li. owing to them, at this last Fasterns evin, for ...

Vol. 4  p. 286 (Rel. 0.27)

44 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. Holyrood
of it having perhaps been reduced to ruins before
the view was taken. During the levelling of the
ground around the palace, and digging a foundation
for the substantial rai!ing with which it was
recently enclosed, the workmen came upon the
the present rampart wall, when near the same site
two stone coffins of the twelfth century, now in
the nave, were found. Each is six feet four inches.
in length, inside measurement.
In the abbey was preserved, enshrined in silver,.
CROFT-AN-RIGH HOUSE.
zealous veneration in the great cathedral near the
The texture of this remarkable cross was
said to have been of such a nature that no mortal
artificer could tell whether it was of wood, horn, OG
, field.
of other early buildings [perhaps the abbey
house?], and from their being in the direct line
of the building it is not improbable that a Lady
chapel or other addition to the abbey church
may have stood to the east of the choir. . . .
A curious relic of the ancient tenants of the
monastery was found by the vorkmen, consisting
of a skull, which had no doubt formed the solitary
companion of one of the monks. It had a hole in
the top of the cranium, which served, most probably,
for securing a crucifix, and over the brow
‘ was traced in antique characters, Memento mori.
This solitary relic of the furniture of the abbey
was procured by the late Sir Patrick Walker, and
is still in possession of his family.” ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. Holyrood of it having perhaps been reduced to ruins before the view was taken. During ...

Vol. 3  p. 44 (Rel. 0.27)

246 OLD AND NEW EDINEURGH. [Cowgate.
showed that the barrel had been placed so as to collect
the rain water from the eaves of a long defunct
house, with a stepping-stone to enable any one to
reach its contents.
The old Meal Market was the next locality of
importance on this side. In 1477 James 111.
ordained this market to be held “ fra the Tolbooth
up to Liberton’s Wynd, alsua fra thence upward to
the treviss;” but the meal market of 1647, as
shown in Gordon’s map, directly south of the
. Parliament House, seems to have been a long,
unshapely edifice, with two high arched gates.
. In 1690 the meal market paid to the city,
A77 15s. 6d. sterling. As we have related elsewhere,
all this quarter was destroyed by the “ Great
Fire” of 1700, which “broke out in the lodging
immediately under Lord Crossrig‘s lodging in the
meal market,” and from which he and his family
had to seek flight in their night-dress. One of
his daughters, Jean Home, died at Edinburgh in
Feb. 1769.
Edgar‘s map shows the new meal market, a huge
quadrangular mass, with 150 feet front by 100 in
depth, immediately eastward of the Back Stairs.
This place was the scene of a serious not in 1763.
In November there had been a great scarcity of
meal, by which multitudes of the poor were reduced
to great suffering; hence, on the evening of the
zIst, a great mob proceeded to the gimels in the
meal market, carried off all that was there, rifled
the house of the keeper, and smashed all the furniture
that was not carried OK At midnight the
mob dispersed on the amval of some companies
of infantry from the Castle, to renew their riotous
proceedings, however, on the following day, when
they could only be suppressed “by the presence
of the Provost (George Drummond), bdies, trainband,
constables, party of *e military, and the
city guard.” Many of the unfortunate rioters
were captured at the point of the bayonet, and
lodged in the Castle, and the whole of the Scots
Greys were quartered in the Canongate and Leith
to enforce order, “ The magistrates of Edinburgh,
and Justices of Peace for the County of Midlothian,”
says the Norfh BnYish Magazine for I 763,
have since used every means to have this market
supplied effectually with meal ; but from whatever
cause it may proceed, certain it is that the scarcity
of oatmeal is still severely felt by every family who
have occasion to make use of that commodity.”
The archiepiscopal palace and the mint, which
were near each other, on this side of the street,
have already been described (Vol. I., pp. 262-4;
267-270); but one of the old features of the locality
still remaining unchanged is the large old
gateway, recessed back, which gave access to the
extensive pleasure-grounds attached to the residence
of the Marquises of Tweeddale, and which seem to
have measured 300 feet in length by 250 in breadth,
and been overlooked in the north-west angle by the
beautiful old mansion of the Earls of Selkirk, the
basement of which was a series of elliptical arcades.
These pleasure grounds ascended from the street
to the windows of Tweeddale House, by a succession
of terraces, and were thickly planted on the
east and west with belts of trees. In Gordon’s
map for 1647, the whole of this open area had
been-what it is now Secoming again-covered
by masses of building, the greatest portion of it
being occupied by a huge church, that has had, at
various times, no less than three different congregations,
an Episcopal, Presbyterian, and, finally,
a Catholic one.
For a few years before 1688 Episcopacy was
the form of Church government in Scotlandillegally
thrust upon the people; but the selfconstituted
Convention, which transferred the
crown to William and Mary, re-established the
Presbyterian Church, abolishing the former, which
consisted of fourteen bishops, two archbishops,
and go0 clergymen. An Act of the Legislature
ordered these to conform to the new order of
things, or abandon their livings; but though expelled
from these, they. continued to officiate
privately to those who were disposed to attend to
their ministrations, notwithstanding the penal laws
enacted against them-laws which William, who
detested Presbyterianism, and was an uncovenanted
King,” intended to repeal if he had
lived. The title of archbishop was dropp’ed by
the scattered few, though a bishop was elected
with the title Primus, to regulate the religious
affairs of the community. There existed another
body attached to the same mode of worship,
composed of those who favoured the principles
which occasioned the Revolution in Scotland,
and,adopting the ritual of the Church of England,
were supplied With clergy ordained by bishops of
that country. Two distinct bodies thus existeddesignated
by the name of Non-jurants, as declining
the oaths to the new Government The first
of these bodies-unacknowledged as a legal
association, whose pastors were appointed by
bishops, who acknowledged only the authority of
their exiled king, who refused to take the oaths
prescribed by lam; and omitted all mention of the
House of Hanover in their prayers-were made
the subject of several penal statutes by that
House.
An Episcopal chapel, whose minister was qualified ... OLD AND NEW EDINEURGH. [Cowgate. showed that the barrel had been placed so as to collect the rain water from ...

Vol. 4  p. 246 (Rel. 0.27)

I 26 ’ OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [PrinerSSma.
The tower, as originally designed, terminated in
an open lantern, but this fell during a tempest of
wind in January, 1818. In a letter to his friend,
Willie Laidlaw, Sir Walter Scott refers to the event
thus :-“I had more than an anxious thought
about you all during the gale of wind. The Gothic
pinnacles were blown from the top of Bishop
Sandford‘s Episcopal chapel at the end of Princes
Street, and broke through the roof and flooring,
doing great damage. This was sticking the horns
of the mitre into the belly of the church. The
devil never so well deserved the title of Prince of
Power of the Air since he has blown down this
handsome church, and left the ugly mass of new
buildings standing on the North Bridge.”
The bishop referred to was the Rev. Daniel Sand-
‘ ford, father of the accomplished Greek scholar, Sir
Daniel Keyte Sandford, D.C.L., who was born at
Edinburgh in February, 1798, and received all the
rudiments of his education under the venerable
prelate, who died in 1830.
The interior of St. John’s Church is beautiful,
and presents an imposing appearance ; it contains
a very fine organ, and is adorned with richlycoloured
stained-glass windows. The great eastern
window, which is thirty feet in height, contains the
figures of the twelve apostles, by Eggington of
Birmingham, acquired in 1871. There is also
a magnificent reredos, designed by Peddie and
Kinnear.
In this church ministered for years the late Dean
Ramsay, the genial-hearted author of “ Reminiscences
of Scottish Life and Character.” A small
cemetery, with two rows of ornamented burial
vaults, adjoin the south side of this edifice, the
view of which is very striking from the West
Churchyard. In these vaults and the little
cemetery repose the remains of many persons
eminent for rank and talent. Among them are
the prince of Scottish portrait painters, Sir Henry
Raeburn, the Rev. Archibald Alison, the wellknown
essayist on ‘‘ Taste,” Dr. Pultney Alison, his
eldest son, and brother of the historian, Sir Archibald.
The Doctor was professor successively of
the theory and practice of physic in the university,
author of several works of great authority in
medical science, and was one of the most philanthropic
men that ever adorned the medica! profession,
even in Edinburgh, where it has ever been
pre-eminently noble in all works of charity ; and he
was the able antagonist of Dr. Chalmers in advocating
the enforcement of a compulsory assessment
for the support of the poor in opposition to the
Doctor’s voluntary one.
There, too, lie James DonaldsoIi, founder of the
magnificent hospital which bears his name j the
Rev. Andrew Thomson, first minister of St. Geoge’s
Church in Charlotte Square, in his day one of the
most popular of the city clergy; Sir Williani
Hamilton, professor of moral philosophy in the
university, and a philosopher of more than
European name ; Catherine Sinclair, the novelist j
Macvey Napier, who succeeded Lord Jeffrey as
editor of the Zdiaburgh Rm2wY and, together
with James Browne, LL.D., conducted the seventh
edition of the ‘‘ Encyclopaedia Britannica”; Sir
William Arbuthnot, who was Lord Provost in
1823; Mrs. Sligo of Inzievar, the sister of Sir
James Outram, “ the Bayard of India”; and many
more of note.
Nearly opposite is a meagre and somewhat
obstn,uztive edifice of triangular form, known as
the Sinclair Fountain, erected in 1859 at the
expense of Miss Catherine Sinclair, the novelist,
and daughter of the famous Sir John Sinclair of
Ulbster, a lady distinguished for her philanthropy,
and is one of the memorials’of her benefactions
to the city.
Among the many interesting features in Princes
Street are its monuments, and taken seriatim,
according to their dates, the first-and first also is
consequence and magnificence-is that of Sir Walter
Scott This edifice, the design for which, by G.
M. Kemp (who lost his life in the canal by
drowning ere its completion), was decided by the
committee on the 30th of April, 1840, bears a
general resemblance to the most splendid examples
of monumental crosses, though it far excels all its
predecessors in its beauty and vast proportions,
beirig 180 feet in height, and occupying a square
area of 55 feet at its base.
The foundation stone was laid in 1840, and in it
was deposited a plate, bearing the following
inscription by Lord Jeffrey, remarkable for its
tenor :-
“This Graven Plate, deposited in the baseof a votive
building on the fifteenth day of August, in the year of
Christ 1840, and mcr bRry io see tk I&& apin td2 aZ2 tlu
surrounding strucfwu have crumbZrd fo dwt the d.ay 01
time, w by human OY ekmmzal vibZence, may then testify to a
distant posterity that his countrymen began on that day to
raise an effigy and architectural mohnent, TO THE MEMORY
OF SIR WALTER SCOTT, BART., whose admirable writings
were then allowed to have given more delight and suggested
better feeling to a larger class of readers in every rank of
society, than those of any other author, with the exception of
Shakespeare alone, and which were therefore thought likely
to be remembered long after this act of gratitude on the part
of the first generation of his admirers should be forgotten.
‘‘ HE WAS BORN AT EDINBURGH, I5TH AUGUST, 1771,
AND DIED AT ABBOTSFORD, ZIST SEPTEMBER, 1832,”
Engravings have made us familiar with the ... 26 ’ OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [PrinerSSma. The tower, as originally designed, terminated in an open lantern, but ...

Vol. 3  p. 126 (Rel. 0.27)

The Old High S:hoo!.l THE GRAMMAR SCHOOL. 287
college, the pulpits, desks, lofts, and seats, were;
says Nicol, (( dung down by these English sodgeris,
and burnt to asses.”
When the congregation of the abbey church
were compelled by James VII. to leave it in 1687,
they had to seek accommodation in Lady Yester’s
till another place of worship could be provided
for them. A small cemetery adjoined the church ;
it is now covered with buildings, but was still
in use about the close of the last and beginning
of the present century, and many seamen of the
Russian fleet, which lay for a time at Leith, and
who died in the infirmary, were buried there.
In 1803 the old church was taken down, and a
new one erected for 1,212 sitters, considerably to
the westward of it, was opened in the following
year. Though tasteless and nondescript in style,
it was considered an ornament to that part of
the city.
The tomb of the foundress, and the tablet recording
her good works, are both rebuilt into
this new fane ; but it seems doubtful whether her
body was removed at the same time. The parish
is wholly a town one, and situated within the city;
it contains 64,472 square yards
With diffidence, yet with ardour and interest, we
now approach the subject of the old High School
of Edinburgh-the famous and time-honoured
SchZa Regia Edineprsis-so prominently patronised
by James VI., and the great national importance of
which was recognised even by George IV., who
gave it a handsome donation.
Scott, and thousands of others, whose deeds and
names in every walk of life and in every part of
the globe have added to the glory of their country,
have conned their tasks in the halls of this venerable
institution. In the roll of its scholars,”
says Dr. Steven, “are the names of some of the
most distinguished men of all professions, and who
have filled important situations in all parts of the
world, and it is a fact worth recording that it includes
the names of three Chancellors of England,
all nafives of Edinburgh-Wedderbum, Erskine,
and Brougham.”
Learning, with all the arts and infant science
too, found active and munificent patrons in the
monarchs of the Stuart line ; thus, so early as the
sixth Parliament of James IV., it was ordained
that all barons and freeholders of substance were
to put their eldest sons to school after the age of
six or nine years, there to remain till they were
perfect in Latin, ‘( swa that they have knowledge
and understanding of the lawes, throw the quhilks
justice may remaine universally throw all the
tealme.” Those who failed to conform to this
Act were to pay a fine of twenty pounds. But
Scotland possessed schools so early as the twelfth
century in all her principal towns, though prior
to that period scholastic knowledge could only
be received within the walk- of the monasteries.
The Grammar School of Edinburgh was originally
attached to the abbey of Holyrood, and as the
demand for education increased, those friars whose
presence could be most easily dispensed tvith at the
abbey,were permitted by the abbot and chapter
to become public teachers within the city.
The earliest mention of a regular Grammar
School in Edinburgh being under the control of
the magistrates is on the 10th January, 1519, “the
quhilk day, the provost, baillies, and counsall
statutis and ordains, fot resonabie caussis moving
thame, that na maner of nychtbour nor indwe!ler
within this burgh, put thair bairins till ony particular
scule within this toun, boi to fhe pnircipal
Grammw Smlc of the samyn,” to be taught in
any science, under a fine of ten shillings to the
master of the said principal school.
David Vocat, clerk of the abbey, was then at
the head of the seminary, enjoying this strange
monopoly; and on the 4th September, 1524,
George, Bishop of Dunkeld, as abbot of Holyrood,
with consent of his chapter, appointed Henry
Henryson as assistant and successor to Vocat,
whose pupil he had been, at the Grammar School
of the Canongate.
Bya charter of James V., granted under the
great seal of Scotland, dated 1529, Henryson had
the sole privilege of instructing the youth of
Edinburgh; but he was ‘also to attend at the
abbey in his surplice on all high and solemn
festivals, there to sing at mass and evensong, and
make himself otherwise useful in the chapel.
According to Spottiswood‘s Church History,
Henryson publicly abjured Romanism so early .as
1534, and thus he must have left the High School
before that year, as Adam Melville had become
head-master thereof in 1531. The magistrates of
the city had as yet no voice in the nomination of
masters, though the whole onus of the establishment
rested on them as representing the citizens ; and
in 1554, as we have elsewhere (VoL I. p. 263)
stated, they hired that venerable edifice, then at
the foot of Blackfriars Wfnd-once the residence
of -Archbishop Ekaton and of his nephew the cardinal-
as a school; but in the following year they
were removed to another house, near the head of
what is named the High School Wynd, which had
been built by the town for their better accommodation.
The magistrates having obtained from Queen ... Old High S:hoo!.l THE GRAMMAR SCHOOL. 287 college, the pulpits, desks, lofts, and seats, were; says Nicol, (( ...

Vol. 4  p. 287 (Rel. 0.26)

250 OLD AND NEW EDINBVRGH. [Leith.
London, at the request of Lord Balgonie, afterwards
Earl of Leven.
People of Leith are not likely to forget that the
vicinity of the Sheriff Brae is a district inseparably
connected with the name of Gladstone, and readers
of Hugh Miller‘s interesting ‘‘ Schools and Schoolmasters
” will scarcely require to be reminded of
the experiences of the stone-mason of Cromarty,
in his visit to this quarter of Leith.
In Peter Williamson’s Directory for Edinburgh
and Leith, 1786-8, we find--“ James Gladstones,
schoolmaster, No; 4 Leith,” and “ Thomas Gladstones,
flour and barley merchant, Coal Hill.” His
shop, long since removed, stood where a wood-yard
is now. James was uncle, and Thomas the father,
of Sir John Gladstone of Fasque, who built the
church and almshouses SO near where his thrifty
forefathers earned their bread.
The Gladstones, says a, local writer, were of
Clydesdale origin, and were land-owners there
and on the Border. ‘I Claiming descent from this
ancient and not undistinguished stock, Mr. John
Gladstones of Toftcombes, near Biggar, in the
Upper Ward of Clydesdale, had, by his wife, Janet
Aitken, a son, Thomas, a prosperous trader in
Leith, who mamed Helen, daughter of Mr. Walter
Neilson of Springfield, and died in the year 1809 ;
of this marriage, the deceased baronet (Sir John)
was the eldest son.”
He was born in Leith on the I Ith December,
in the year 1764 and commenced business there
at an early age, but soon removed to the more
ample field of Liverpool, where, for more than
half a century, he took rank with the most successful
traders of that opulent seaport, where he
amassed great wealth by his industry, enterprise,
and skill, and he proved in after life munificent
in its disposal.
The names of Thomas and Hugh Gladstones,
merchants in North Leith, appear in the Directory
for 1811, and the marriage of Marion (a daughter
of the former) to the Rev. John Watson, Minister
of the Relief Congregation at Dunse, in 1799, is
recorded in the HeraZd of that year.
While carrying on business in Liverpool, John
Gladstones was a liberal donor to the Church of
England, and after he retired in 1843, and returned
to Scotland, he became a not less liberal benefactor
to the Episcopal Church there. His gifts to Trinity
College, Glenalmond, were very noble, and he
contributed largely to the endowment of the
Bishopric of Brechin, and he’ also built and endowed
a church at Fasque, in the Howe of the
Mearns, near the beautiful seat he had acquired
there. In February, 1835, he had obtained the
(Edhburgh Mag., 1788.)
royal license to drop the final “ s” with which his
father and grandfather had written the name, and
t6 restore it to what he deemed the more ancient
form of Gladstone, though it is distinctly spelt
“Gladstanes” in the royal charters of King David IL
(Robertson’s ‘‘ Index.”)
The eminent position occupied by this distinguished
native of Leith, as well as his talents and
experience, gave his opinions much weight in
commercial matters, According to one authority,
“he was frequently consulted on such subjects by
ministers of the day, and took many opportunities
of making his sentiments known by pamphlets and
letters to the newspapers. He was to the last a
strenuous supporter of that Protective policy which
reigned supreme and almost unquestioned during
his youth, and his pen was wielded against the
repeal of the Corn and Navigation Laws. He
was a fluent, but neither a graceful nor a forcible
writer, placing less trust apparently in his style
than in the substantial merits of his ample information
and ingenious argument.” Desire was more
than once expressed to see him in Parliament, and
he contested the representation of various places
on those Conservative principles to which he adhered
through life. Whether taking a prominent
part in the strife of politics had excited in him an
ambition for Parliamentary life, or, whether it was
due, says Mr. George Barnett Smith, in his wellknown
‘‘ Life ” of Sir John Gladstone’s illustrious
son, the great Liberal Prime Minister, “to the
influence of Mr. Canning-who early perceived
the many sterling qualities of his influential sup
porter-matters little; but he at length came
forward for Lancaster, for which place he was returned
to the Parliament elected in 1819. We
next find him member for Woodstock, 1821-6; and
in the year 1827 he represented Berwick. Altogether
he was a member of the House of Commons
for nine years.” In 1846 he was created a baronet,
an honour which must have been all the more
gratifying that it sprang from the spontaneous suggestion
of the late Sir Robert Peel, and was one
of the very few baronetcies conferred by a minister
who was ‘‘ more than commonly frugal in the grant
of titles.”
Sir John was twice mamed, and had several children
by his second wife, Anne Robertson, daughter
of Andrew Robertson, Provost of Dingwall. His
youngest son, the Right Hon. William Ewart Gladstone,
M.P., born in 1809, has a name that belongs
to the common history of Europe.
The venerable baronet, who first saw the light
in the rather gloomy Coal Hill of Leith, died at his
seat of Fasque on the 7th of December, 1851, ... OLD AND NEW EDINBVRGH. [Leith. London, at the request of Lord Balgonie, afterwards Earl of Leven. People of ...

Vol. 6  p. 250 (Rel. 0.26)

I 88 OLD ANI) NEW EDINBURGH. [York Place
His lordship was so fond of card-playing that
he was wont to say, laughingly, “Cards are my
profession-the law my amusement.” He died
at Powrie, in Forfarshire, on the 19th of October,
18IL
In 1795 Sir Henry Raeburn built the large house
No. 32, the upper part of which had been lighted
from the roof and fitted up as a gallery for exhibiting
pictures, while. the lower was divided into convenient
painting rooms, but his residence was then
at Stockbridge.
Mr. Alexander Osborne, a commissioner of the
Board of Customs, resided in No. 40 for niany
years, and died there. He was of great stature,
and was the right-hand man of the Grenadiers of
the First Regiment of Royal Edinburgh Volunteers,
proverbially a battalion of tall men, and his personal
appearance was long familiar in the streets of
the city. In bulk he was remarkable as well as in
stature, his legs in particular being nearly as large
in circumference as the body of an ordinary person,
The editor of Kay mentions that shortly after the
volunteers had been embodied, Lord Melville preseqted
his gigantic countryman to George III.,
who on witnessing such a herculean specimen of
his loyal defenders in Scotland, was somewhat
excited and curious. ‘‘-4re all the Edinburgh
volunteers like you?” he asked, Osborne mistaking
the jocular construction of the question,
and supposing it referred to their status in society,
replied, “They are so, please your Majesty.”
‘‘ Astonishing !” exclaimed the King, lifting up his
hands in wonder.
In his youth he is said to have had a prodigious
appetite, being able to consume nine pounds of
steak at a meal. His father, who died at Aberdeen,
comptroller of the Customs in 1785, is said ta
have beena man of even more colossal proportions.
Mr. Osborne lived long in Richmond Street
prior to removing to York Place, where he died in
his 74th year.
During the early years of this century Lady Sinclair
of Murkle occupied No. 61, and at the same
time No. 47 was the residence of Alexandex
Nasmyth, landscape painter, father of Peter, who
won himself the name of “ the English Hobbima,JJ
and who, in fact, was the father of the Scottish school
of landscape painting. In his youth, the pupil of
Allan Ramsay, and afterwards of the best artists in
Rome and England, he returned to his native city,
Edinburgh, where he had been born in 1758 ; and
to his friendship with Bums the world is indebted
for the only authentic portrait which exists of our
national poet His compositions were chaste and
elegant, and his industry unceasing ; thus he numbered
among his early employers the chief of the
Scottish nobZesse. Most of the living landscape
painters of Scotland, and many of the dead ones,
have sprung from the school of Nasmyth, who, in
his extreme age, became an honorary member of
the then new Scottish Academy.
The firmness of his intellect, and the freshness of
his fancy continued uninterrupted to the end of his
labours; his last work was the touching little
picture called “ Going Home ;I’ and he died soon
after at Edinburgh in the eighty-third year of his
age, in 1840. He married a daughter of Sir James
Foulis, Bart., of Colinton and that ilk, by whom he
had a large family, all more or less inheriting the
genius of their father, particularly his son Peter,
who predeceased him at London in 1831, aged
forty-five years.
On the north side of York Place is St. Paul’s
Episcopal church, built in that style of Gothic
which prevailed in the time of Henry VI. of England,
and of which the best specimen may be seen
in King’s College, Cambridge. The building consists
of a nave with four octagon towers at the
angles, with north and south aisles. The pulpit is
at the east end, and immediately before the communion-
table. The organ is at the west end, and
above the main entrance, which faces York Lanea
remnant of Broughton Loan. In the north-west
angle of the edifice is the vestry, The length of
the church is about 123 feet by 73 feet, external
measurement. The nave is 109 feet 9 inches in
length by 26 feet broad, and 46 feet in height; and
the aisles are 79 feet long by zg feet in height.
The ceiling of the nave is a flat Gothic arch,
covered with ornamental tracery, as are also the
ceilings of the aisles. The great eastern window
is beautifully filled in with stained glass by Egginton
of Birmingham. This handsome church-in its
time the best example of Gothic erected in Edinburgh
since the Reformation-was built from a design
by Archibald Elliot, and doesconsiderablecredit
to the taste and geqius of that eminent architect.
It was begun in February, 1816, and finished in
June, 1818, for the use of the congregation which
had previously occupied the great church in the
Cowgate, and who contributed ~ 1 2 , o o o for its
erection. The well-known Archibald Alison, author
of (‘ Essays on Taste,” and father of the historian
of Europe, long officiated here. He was the son
of a magistrate of the city of Edinburgh, where he
was born in 1757, but graduated at Oxford; and
on the invitation of Sir William Forbes and others,
in 1800, became senior incumbent of the Cowgate
chapel. After the removal of the congregation to
* ... 88 OLD ANI) NEW EDINBURGH. [York Place His lordship was so fond of card-playing that he was wont to say, ...

Vol. 3  p. 188 (Rel. 0.26)

Leith.] THE OLD TOLBCTOTH. 229
During the persecution under the Duke of
Lauderdale, Mr. John Gregg, who had been
formerly minister at Skirling, in Peeblesshire, was
apprehended and imprisoned in the Tolbooth for
house of his
that he died, was sentenced to be scourged on her
bare back from the Tolbooth of Edinburgh to the
Nether Bow, and from the Tolbooth of Leith to
the door of Isabel Lesly, and from there to the
brother-in-law
at Leith Mills.
Bass, to be detained
there
among many
other sufferers
for conscience
the Bass for “ abusing and railing ’I at Mr. Thomas
Wilkie, minister of North Leith, but in the May
of the same year he was brought back to Leith,
and thrust into the Tolbooth, where he lay for
quired for service in Leith. In 1763, a thief, who
was discovered in a peculiar manner, became, till
tried, an inmate of this old prison,
A Scottish sailor, who had served on board the
In 1678, Fi
:Ill c- - Hector Allan, -
a Quaker seaman
in Leith, TOLBOOTH wy
TABLET OF THsee.
In April, 1713, a prisoner named Jean Ramsay,
who had dragged a weak and infirm man from his
bed in the house of Isabel Lesly in Leith, near
the South Church, and used him with such severity
the water, and he found it to be his own.
The subsequent inquiry did not prove pleasant
to the half-drowned thief, who was forthwith taken
into custody, and committed to the Tolbooth.
By the beginning of the nineteenth century the ... THE OLD TOLBCTOTH. 229 During the persecution under the Duke of Lauderdale, Mr. John Gregg, who had ...

Vol. 6  p. 229 (Rel. 0.26)

140 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [St. Giles's Church.
establishment, and Maitland gives us a roll of the
forty chaplaincies and altarages therein.
An Act of Council dated twelve years before
this event commemorates the gratitude ,of the
citizens to one who had brought from France a
relic of St. Giles, and, modernised, it runs thus :-
*' Be it kenned to all men by these present letters,
we, the provost, bailies, counselle and communitie
of the burgh of Edynburgh, to be bound
and obliged to William Prestoune of Gourton, son
and heir to somewhile iVilliam Prestoune of Gourton,
and to the friends and sirname
of them, that for so much
that William Prestoune the
father, whom God assoile, made
diligent labour, by a high and
mighty prince, the King of
France (Charles VII.), and
many other lords of France, for
getting the arm-bone of St. Gile,
the which bone he freely left to
our mother kirk of St. Gile of
Edinburgh, without making any
condition. We, considering the
great labour and costs that he
made for getting thereof, promise
that within six or seven years,
in all the possible and goodly
haste we may, that we shall
build an aisle forth from our
Ladye aisle, where the said William
lies, the said aisle to be
begun within a year, in which
aisle there shall be brass for his
lair in bost (it., for his grave in
embossed) work, and above the
brass a writ, specifying the
bringing of that Rylik by him
into Scotland, with his arms, and
his arms to be put in hewn
church of his name in the Scottish quarter of
Bruges, and on the 1st of September is yearly
borne through the streets, preceded by all thedrums
in the garrison.
To this hour the arms of Preston still remain in
the roof of the aisle, as executed by the engagement
in the charter quoted; and the Prestons
continued annually to exercise their right of bearing
the arm of the patron saint of the city until
the eventful year 1558, when the clergy issued
forth for the last time in solemn procession on
the day of his feast, the 1st
SEAL OF ST. G1LES.t (A ffw Henry Lain&.
work, in three other parts of the aisle, with book
and chalice and all other furniture belonging
thereto. Also, that we shall assign the chaplain
of whilome Sir William of Prestoune, to sing at the
altar from that time forth. . . . . Item, that
as often as the said Rylik is borne in the year,
that the sirname and nearest of blood of the said
William shall bear the said Rylik, before all
others, &c. In witness of which things we have
set to our common seal at Edinburgh the 11th
day of the month of January, in the year of our
Lord 1454"*
The other arm of St. Giles is preserved in the
Frag. : " Scotomomastica."
September, bearing with them
a statue of St. Giles-"a marmouset
idol," Knox calls itborrowed
from the Grey Friars,
because the great image of the
saint, which was as large as life,
had been stolen from its place,
and after being '' drouned " in
the North Loch as an encourager
of idolatry, was burned
as a heretic by some earnest
Reformers. Only two years
before this event the Dean of
Guild had paid 6s. for painting
the image, and Izd. for
polishing the silver arm containing
the relic. To give dignity
to this last procession the
queen regent attended it in
person; but the moment she
left it the spirit of the mob
broke forth. Some pressed close.
to the image, as if to join in
its support, while endeavouring
to shake it down; but this.
proved impossible, so firmly was
it secured to its supporters; and
the struggle, rivalry, and triumph
of the mob were delightful -to Knox, who described
the event with the inevitable glee in which
he indulged on such occasions.
Only four years after all this the saint's silverwork,
ring and jewels, and all the rich vestments,
wherewith his image and his arm-bone were wont
to be decorated on high festivals, were sold by
the authority of the magistrates, and the proceeds
employed in the repair of the church.
f Under a canopy supported by spiral columns a full-length figure of.
St. Giles with the nimbus, holding the crozier in his right hand, and ih
his left a Look and a branch. A kid, the usual attendant on St. Giles,
is playfully leaping up to his hand. On the pedestal is a shield bearing
the castle triple-towered, S. COMMUNE CAPTI BTI EGIDII DEEDINBURGH.
(Apfindrd to a chartrr by the Provost [ Waite, FodesJ d Chuptrr
of St. Gdes of fke man= andgkk in favmrof the magisfrates and'
conzmndy of Edindrryh, A.D. 1496.") ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [St. Giles's Church. establishment, and Maitland gives us a roll of the forty ...

Vol. 1  p. 140 (Rel. 0.26)

THE FIRST THOROUGHFARE. Leith1
THE KIRKGATE.
CHAPTER XXIII.
LEITH - THE KIRKGATE.
The Kirkgate-Eastside-Tavern Tragedy, 1691-Robed Watson-The Preceptmy of St. Anthony-Its Seal-King James's Hospital--%
Mary's Church-Destruction of the Choir-First Protestant Miniister--Cromwell's Troops-The Rev. John Logan, Miniiter.
ONE of the oldest and principal streets of Leith is
the Kirkgate, a somewhat stately thoroughfare as
compared with those off it, measuring eleven hundred
feet in length from the foot of the Walk to
the Water Reservoir (called of old The Pipes) at
the head of Water Lane, by an average breadth of
fifty feet. " Time and modern taste," says Wilson,
" have slowly, but very effectually, modified its antique
features. No timber-fronted gable now
thrusts its picturesque fapde with careless grace
beyond the line of more staid and formal-looking
ashlar fronts. Even the crowstepped gables of the
sixteenth and seventeenth centuries are becoming
the exception ; it is only by the irregularity which
still pertains to it, aided by the few really picturesque
tenements which remain unaltered, that it
now attracts the notice of the curious visitor as the
genuine remains of the ancient High Street of the
burgh. Some of these relics of former times are
well worthy the notice of the antiquary, while ... FIRST THOROUGHFARE. Leith1 THE KIRKGATE. CHAPTER XXIII. LEITH - THE KIRKGATE. The Kirkgate-Eastside-Tavern ...

Vol. 6  p. 213 (Rel. 0.26)

128 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Restalrig,
Baron Norton was remarkable for his constant
attention to all religious duties. Throughout his long
life not a Sunday passed in which he was prevented
from attending the service of the Scottish Episcopal
Church, and so inviolable was his regard to truth,
that no argument could ever prevail upon him to
deviate from the performance of a promise, though
obtained contrary to his interest and by artful representations
imperfectly founded.
He died at Abbeyhill in 1820, after officiating as
a Baron of Exchequer for forty-four years. His remains
were taken to England and deposited in the
family vault at Wonersh, near Guildford, in Surrey.
On the death of his elder brother William, without
heirs in 1822, his son Fletcher Norton succeeded as
third Lord Grantley.
It is from him that the three adjacent streets at
the delta of the Regent and London Roads take
their names.
In this quarter lie Comely Green and Comely
Gardens. During the middle of the last century,
the latter would seem to have been a species of
lively Tivoli Gardens for the lower classes in Edinburgh,
though Andrew Gibb, the proprietor thereof,
addresses his advertisement to “ gentlemen and
ladies,” in the Chrant of September 1761.
Therein he announces that he intends U to give
up Comely Gardens in a few weeks, and hopes
they will favour his undertaking and encourage him
to the last. As the ball nights happened to be
rainy these three weeks past he is to keep the
gardens open every day for this season, that gentlemen
and ladies may have the benefit of a walk
there upon paying zd to the doorkeeper for keeping
the walk in order, and may have tea, coffee,
or fruit any night of the ball nights ; and hereby
takes this opportunity of returning his hearty thanks
to the noblemen, gentlemen, and ladies, who have
done him the honour to favour him with their company,
and begs the continuance of their favour, as
the undertaking has been accompanied with great
expense. Saturday night is intended to be the last
public one of this season.”
A subsequent advertisement announces for sale,
“the enclosed grounds of Comely Gardens, together
with the large house then commonly called
the Green House, and tlie office, houses, &c., on
the east side of the road leading to Jock’s Lodge.”
Adjoining the new abbey church, at the end of
a newly-built cuZ-de-sac, is one of those great schools
built by the Edinburgh School Board, near Norton
Place.
In architectural
design it corresponds with the numerous Board
Schools erected elsewhere in the city. Including
For the site Az,ooo was paid.
fittings, the edifice cost ,&7,700, Extending across
the width of the building, on both flats, are two
great halls, with four class-rooms attached. The
infants are accommodated down-stairs, the juveniles
above.
On the ground flat is a large sewing-room All
the class-rooms are lofty and well ventilated. At
the back are playgrounds, partly covered, for the
use of the pupils, whose average number is 540.
The long thoroughfare which runs northward from
this quarter, named the Easter Road, was long the
chief access to the city from Leith j the only other,
until the formation of the Walk, being the Western
or Bonnington Road.
On the east side of it are the vast premises built
in 1878 by the Messrs. W. and A. K. Johnston for
business purposes, as engravers, printers, and pub
lishers, and a little to the north of these are the
recently-built barracks for the permanent use of
the City Militia, or “Duke of Edinburgh’s Own
Edinburgh Artillery,” consisting of six batteries,
having twenty officers, including the Prince.
Passing an old mansion, named the Drum, in the
grounds of which were dug up two very fine claymores,
now possessed by the proprietor, Mr. Smith-
Sligo of Inzievar, we find a place on the west side
of the way that is mentioned more than once in
Scottish history, the Quarry Holes.
In 1605, Sir Janies Elphinstone, first Lord
Balmerino, became proprietor of the lands of
Quarry Holes after the ruin of Logan of Restalng.
The Upper Quarry Holes were situated on the
declivity of the Calton Hill, at the head of the
Easter Road, and allusion is made to them in some
trials for witchcraft in the reign of James VI.
At the foot of this road a new Free Church for
South Leith was erected in 1881, and during the
excavations four humad skeletons were discoveredthose
of the victims of war or a plague.
Eashvard of this, cut off on the south by the line
of the North British Railway, and partially by the
water of Lochend on the west, lies the still secluded
village of Restalrig, which, though in the immediate
vicinity of the city, seems, somehow, to have
fallen so completely out of sight, that a vast portion
of the inhabitants appear scarcely to be aware
of its existence ; yet it teems with antiquarian and
historical memories, and possesses an example of
ecclesiastical architecture the complete restoration
of which has been the desire of many generations
of men of taste, and in favour of which the late
David Laing wrote strongly-the ancient church
of St. Triduana.
But long before the latter was erected Restalrig
was chiefly known from its famous old well. ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Restalrig, Baron Norton was remarkable for his constant attention to all religious ...

Vol. 5  p. 128 (Rel. 0.26)

OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. cst. Andrew Sq-
ST. ANDREW SQUARE,
The Royal Eank of Scotland.
The Scottish Provident Institution.
The British Linen Company's Rank
The Scottish Widows' Fund Office.
CHAPTER XXIII.
CHAR L 0 T T E S (2 U X R E.
Charlotte Square-Its Early Occupants-Sir John Sinclair, Bart.-Lamond of that Ilk-Sir Williarn Fettes-Lord Chief Commissioner Adam-
Alexander Dirom-St George's Church-The Rev. Andrew Thornson-Prince Consort's Memorial-The Parallelogram of the first New
Town.
CHARLOTTE SQUARE, which corresponds with that
of St. Andrew, and closes the west end of George
Street, as the latter closes the east, measures about
180 yards each way, and was constructed in 1800,
after designs by Robert Adam of Maryburgh, the
eminent architect ; it is edificed in a peculiarly
elegant and symmetrical manner, all the fasades
corresponding with each 0the.r. In 1874 it was
beautified by ornamental alterations and improvements,
and by an enclosure of its garden area, at a
cost of about d3,000. Its history is less varied
than that of St. Andrew Square.
During the Peninsular war No. z was occupied
by Colonel Alexander Baillie, and therein was the
Scottish Barrack office. One .of the earliest OCCUpants
of No. 6 was Sir James Sinclair of Ulbster, ... AND NEW EDINBURGH. cst. Andrew Sq- ST. ANDREW SQUARE, The Royal Eank of Scotland. The Scottish Provident ...

Vol. 3  p. 172 (Rel. 0.26)

Leith.] THE KING'S WARK. 237
~
Arnot adds. It was to keep one of the cellars in
the King's Wark in repair, for holding wines and
other provisions for the king's use.
This Bernard Lindsay it was whom Taylor
mentions in his '' Penniless Pilgrimage " as having
Moreover, the King's Wark was placed most
advantageously at the mouth of the harbour, to
serve as -a defence against any enemy who might
approach it from the seaward. It thus partook
somewhat of the character of a citadel; and this
BERNARD STREET.
given him so warm a welcome at Leith in
1618.
That some funds were derivable from the King's
Wark to the Crown is proved by the frequent
payments with which it was burdened by several
of our monarchs. Thus, in the year 1477 James
111. granted out of it a perpetual annuity of twelve
marks Scots, for support of a chaplain to officiate
at the altar of c'the upper chapel in the collegiate
church of the Blessed Virgin Mary at
Restalrig."
seems to have been implied by the infeftment
granted by Queen Mary in 1564 to John Chisho!ia,
Master or Comptroller of the Royal Artillery,
who would appear to have repaired the buildings
which, no doubt, shared in the general conflagrations
that signalised the English invasions of 1544
and 1547. and the queen, on the completion
of his work, thus confirms her grant to the
comptroller :-
U Efter Her Heinis lauchful age, and revocation
made in parIiament, hir majestie sett in feu farme ... THE KING'S WARK. 237 ~ Arnot adds. It was to keep one of the cellars in the King's Wark in repair, for ...

Vol. 6  p. 237 (Rel. 0.26)

Holyrood.] THE ABBEY CHURCH IN RUINS. 59
and cannon were two ship’s masts, fully rigged,
one on the right bearing the Scottish flag, another
on the left bearing the English. ‘‘ Above all these
rose the beautiful eastem window, shedding a flood
of light along the nave, eclipsing the fourteen
windows of the clerestory. The floor was laid
with ornamental tiles, some portions of which are
yet preserved.”
In the royal yacht there came to Leith from
London an altar, vestments, and images, to complete
the restoration of the church to its ancient uses.
As if to hasten on the destruction of his house,
James VII., not content with securing to his
Catholic subjects within the precincts of Holyrood
that degree of religious toleration now enjoyed
by every British subject, had mass celebrated there,
and established a college of priests, whose rules
were published on the zznd of March, 1688, inviting
people to send their children there, to be
educated gratis, as Fountainhall records. He also
appointed a Catholic printer, named Watson (who
availed himself of the protection afforded by the
sanctuary) to be “ King‘s printer in Holyrood ;”
and obtained a right from the Privy Council
to print all the “ prognostications at Edinburgh,”
an interesting fact which accounts for the number
of old books bearing Holyrood on their
title-pages. Prior to all this, on St. Andrew’s
Day, 30th November, the whole church was
sprinkled with holy water, re-consecrated, and a
sermon was preached in it by a priest named
Widerington.
Tidings of the landing of William of Orange
roused the Presbyterian mobs to take summary vengeance,
and on being joined by the students of the
University, they assailed the palace and chapel royal.
The guard, IOO strong-“ the brats of Belia1”-
under Captain Wallace, opened a fire upon them,
killing twelve and wounding many more, but they
were ultimately compelled to give way, and the
chapel doors were burst open. The whole interior
was instantly gutted and destroyed, and
the magnificent throne, stalls, and orgab, were
ruthlessly tom down, conveyed to the Cross, and
there consigned to the flames, amid the frantic
shrieks and yells of thousands. Not content with
all this, in a spirit of mad sacrilege, the mob, now
grown lawless, burst into the royal vault, tore some
of the leaden coffins asunder, and, according to
Amot, camed off the lids.
By the middle of the eighteenth century the rooG
which had become ruinous, was restored with flagstones
in a manner too ponderous for the ancient
arches, which gave way beneath the superincumbent
weight on the 2nd of December, 1768; and again
the people of Edinburgh became seized by a spirit
of the foullest desecration, and from thenceforward,
until a comparafively recent period, the ruined
church remained open to all, and was appropriated ‘
tu the vilest uses. Grose thus describes what he
saw when the rubbish had been partly cleared
away :-“ When we lately visited it we saw in the
middle of the chapel the columns which had been
borne down by the weight of the roof. Upon
looking into the vaults which were open, we found
that what had escaped the fury of the mob at the
Revolution became a prey to the mobwho ransacked
it after it fell. In A.D. 1776 we had seen the body
of James V. and others in their leaden coffins;
the coffins are now stolen. The head of Queen
Margaret (Magdalene?), which was then entire, and
even beautiful, and the skull of Damley, were also
stolen, and were last traced to the collection of a
statuary in Edinburgh.”
In 1795 the great east window was blown out
in a violent storm, but in 1816 was restored from
its own remains, which lay scattered about on the
ground. In the latter year the north-west tower,
latterly used as a vestry, was still covered by an
ogee leaden roof.
The west front of what remains, though the W0i-k
perhaps of different periods, is in the most beautiful
style of Early English, and the boldly-cut heads
in its sculptured arcade and rich variety of ornament
in the doorway are universally admired.
The windows above it were additions made so
latelyas the time of Charles I., and the inscriptions
which that upfortunate king had carved on the
Ornamental tablet between them is a striking illustration
of the vanity of human hopes. One runs :-
Ultimately this also fell.
“Basiluam ham, Carolus Rex, @firnus imtaxravit, 1633.”
The other :-
“HE SHALL ESTABLISH ANE HOUSE FOR MY NAME, AND I
WILL ESTABLISH THE THRONE OF HIS KINGDOM FOR
EVER.”
In the north-west tower is amarble monument to
Robert, Viscount Belhaven, who was interred there
in January, 1639. His nephews, Sir Archibald and
Sir Robert Douglas, placed there that splendid
memorial to perpetuate hisvirtues as a man and
steadiness as a patriot. A row of tombs of Scottish
nobility and others lie in the north aisle. The
Roxburgh aisle adjoins the royal vault in the
south aisle, and in front of it lies the tomb of the
Countess of Errol, who died in 1808. Close by.
it is that of the Bishop of Orkney, already referred
to. “ A flattering inscription enumerates the.
bishop’s titles, and represents this worldly hypocrite ... THE ABBEY CHURCH IN RUINS. 59 and cannon were two ship’s masts, fully rigged, one on the right bearing ...

Vol. 3  p. 59 (Rel. 0.26)

OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH.
Scotland. But it does not appear that any of
this family ever sat in Parliament. The title is
supposed to be extinct, though a claim was advanced
to it recently.
The parish church is cruciform, and was erected
Cromwell, as a commissioner for forfeited estates,
in 1654.
In 1795 there was interred here William Davidson,
of Muirhouse, who died in his 8Ist year, and
was long known as one of the most eminent of
OLD CRAMOND BRIG.
in 1656, and is in the plain and tasteless style of
the period. On the north side of it is a mural
tamb, inscribed-" HERE LYES THE BODY OF SIR
JAMES HOPE, OF HOPETOW, WHO DECEASED ANNO
1661." It bears his arms and likeness, cut in bold
relief. He was the fourth son of Sir Thomas
Hope, of Craighall, was a famous alchemist in his
time, and the first who brought the art of mining to
any perfection in Scotland. He was a senator of
the College of Justice, and was in league with
Scottish merchants at Rotterdam, where he amassed
a fortune, and purchased the barony of Muirhouse
in 1776.
Among the many fine mansions here perhaps
the most prominent is the modem oiie of Barnton,
erected on the site of an old fortalice, and on rising
ground, amid a magnificently-wooded park 400
acres in extent, Barnton House was of old called
Crainond Re@, as it was once a royal hunting
seat, and in a charter of Muirhouse, granted by ... AND NEW EDINBURGH. Scotland. But it does not appear that any of this family ever sat in Parliament. The title ...

Vol. 6  p. 316 (Rel. 0.25)

2 14 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. . [Castle Terrace.
Place, and now chiefly used as a coal dep8t.
Some of the merchants having coal offices here
are among the oldest and most extensive firms in
the city, one having been established so far back
as 1784 and having now business ramifications so
ample as to require a complete system of private
telegraphs for the transmission of orders between
their various offices and coal stores throughout
Edinburgh and the suburbs.
This station is reached from the East Princes
Street Gardens by a tunnel 3,000 feet in length,
passing under the West Church burial ground
and the foundations of several streets, and serves
as a port for the North British system at the West
End.
In its vicinity, on the north side of the way, is
a large Winter Garden at the corner between the
Glasgow Road and Coates Gardens. It was
formed in 1871, and has a southern front 130 feet
in length, with a main entrance 50 feet wide, 30
feet long, and surmounted by a dome 65 feet in
height.
A little westward of it is West Coates Established
Church, built in the later Pointed style, in
1869, with a tower and spire 130 feet in height.
It cost &7,500, and is seated for go0 persons.
The United Presbyterian Churches in Palmerston
Place (the old line of Bell's Mills Loan) and
Dalry Road were opened in 1875, and cost respectively
,f;13,000 and 'L5,ooo. The former is
an imposing edifice in the classic Italian style,
with a hexastyle portico, carrying semicircular
headed arches and flanked by towers IOO feet in
height.
On the gentle swell of the ground, about 600
yards westward of the Haymarket, amid a brilliant
urban landscape, stands Donaldson's Hospital, in
magnitude and design one of the grandest edifices
of Edinburgh, and visible from a thousand points
all round the environs to the westward, north,
and south. It sprang from a bequest of about
~210,000 originally by James Donaldson of
. Broughton Hall, a printer, at one time at the
foot of the ancient Rest Bow, who died in the
year 1830.
It was erected between the years 1842 and 1851,
after designs by W. H. Playfair, at a cost of about
~IOO,OOO, and forms a hollow quadrangle of 258
feet by 207 exteriorly, and 176 by 164 interiorly.
It is a modified variety of a somewhat ornate
Tudor style, and built of beautiful freestone. It
has four octagonal five-storeyed towers, each IZO
feet in height, in the centre of the main front,
and four square towers of four storeys each at the
corners; and most profuse, graceful, and varied
-
ornamentations on all the four fapdes, and much
in the interior.
It was speciallyvisited and much admired by
Queen Victoria in 1850, before it was quite completed,
and now maintains and ' educates poor
boys and girls. The building can accommodate
150 children of each sex, of whom a considerable
per centage are both deaf and dumb. According
to the rules of this excellent institution, those
eligible for admission are declared to be-'' I. Poor
children of the name of Donaldson or Marshall, if
appearing to the governors to be deserving. 2. Such
poor children as shall appear to be in the most destitute
circumstances and the most deserving of admission."
None are received whose parents are able
to support them. The children are clothed and
maintained in the hospital, and are taught such
useful branches of a plain education as will fit the
boys for trades and the girls for domestic service.
The age of admission is from seven to nine, and
that of leavhg the hospital fourteen years. The
Governors are the Lord Justice-General, the Lord
Clerk Register, the Lord Advocate, the Lord Provost,
the Principal of the University, the senior
minister of the Established Church, the ministers
of St. Cuthbert's and others ex-officio.
The Castle Terrace, of recent erection, occupies
the summit of a steep green bank westward of
the fortress and overhanging a portion of the old
way from the West Port to St. Cuthbert's. A
tenement at its extreme north-western corner is
entirely occupied by the Staff in Scotland. Here
are the offices of the Auxiliary Artillery, Adjutant-
General, Royal Engineers, the medical staff, and
the district Con~missariat.
Southward of this stands St. Mark's Chapel,
erected in 1835, the only Unitarian place of
worship in Edinburgh. It cost only Lz,ooo, and
is seated for 700. It has an elegant interior, and
possesses a iine organ. Previous to 1835 its congregation
met in a chapel in Young Street.
Near it, in Cambridge Street, stands the new
Gaelic Free Church, a somewhat village-like erection,
overshadowed by the great mass of the
United Presbyterian Theological Hall. The latter
was built in 1875 for the new Edinburgh or West
End Theatre, from designs by Mr. Pilkington, an
English architect, who certainly succeeded in
supplying an edifice alike elegant and comfortable.
In its fiqt condition the auditorium measured
70 feet square within the walls, and the accommodation
was as follows-pit and stalls, 1,ooo ;
dress circle and private boxes, 400; second
circle, 600; gallery, 1,000; total, 3,000. The
stage was expansive, and provided with all the ... 14 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. . [Castle Terrace. Place, and now chiefly used as a coal dep8t. Some of the merchants ...

Vol. 4  p. 214 (Rel. 0.25)

297 1,,firwry Strert.1 1NFIRMARY SUGGESTED.
CHAPTER XXXVI.
THE OLD ROYAL INFIRMARY-SURGEON SQUARE.
The Old Royal Infirmary-Projected in time of Gorge I.-The First Hospital Opened-The Royal Charter-Second Hospital Built-
Opened 1741-Sizc and Constitution-Benefactors’ Patients-Struck by Lightning-Chaplain’s Dutier--Cases in the Present Day-The
Keith Fund-Notabilities of Surgeon Squan-The H o w of CumehiU-The Hall of the Royal and Medical Society-Its Foundation-
Bell’s Surgical Theatre.
THOUGH the ancient Scottish Church had been
during long ages distinguished for its tenderness
and charity towards the diseased poor, a dreary
interval of nearly two centuries, says Chambers,
intervened between the extinction of its lazar-houses
and leper-houses, and the time when a merely
civilised humanity suggested the establishment of
a regulated means for succouring the sicknessstricken
of the poor and homeless classes.
86
A pamphlet was issued in Edinburgh in 1721
suggesting the creation of such an institution, and
there seems reason to suppose that the requirements
of her rising medical schools demanded it;
but the settled gloom of the “ dark age ” subsequent
to the Union, usually stifled everything. and the
matter went to sleep till 1725, when it was revived
by a proposal to raise Az,ooo sterling to carry it
out ... 1,,firwry Strert.1 1NFIRMARY SUGGESTED. CHAPTER XXXVI. THE OLD ROYAL INFIRMARY-SURGEON SQUARE. The Old Royal ...

Vol. 4  p. 297 (Rel. 0.25)

16171,782 283, 335, 343 343
III, 140; dew of, II. 169
vanous buildings in, 11. 172; it!
early residents, 11. 166
St. Andrew Street 11. I 160, 161
St. Andrew's Stree;, LeitcIII. 226
m71228 234
St. Ann, the tailors' patron saint, I.
23
St. Rnne-s altar Holyrood 11. 58
in St. Giles'sbhurch I1.'266
St. Anne's altar, St.' Cuthbert'r
Church, 111. 94
St. Anne's Yard, 11. 76,79,3~3,3q
St. Anthony's Chapel Arthur s Seat,
I. 3 6 ; ruinsof, li. *3m *321
St. Anthony's Fire, or &ipelas,
111. 215 216
St. Anthoiy's Hermitage, I. m, 11.
303, 19, 111. 216
St. Ant%ony's Port, Leith, 111.151
SI. Anthonys preceptory, Leith,
its seal,
St. Anthonir Street, Leith, 111.
St. Anthony's Well, 11. 312, 319,
St. Anthony's Wynd,Ldth,III.z~s
St. Augustine Chapel of 11.53
St. Augustine4 Church i. zgz.zg4
St. Bennet's, Greenhill,' 111. 54
SL Bernard's Chapel, 111.75
St. Bernard's Church, 111. 75
St. Bernard's Crescent, 111. 71. p,
St. Bernard's parish, 11. 92, 135,
St. Bernard's Row, 111. 94, 97
St. Bernard's Well, III.74,75. *76,
178, 17% 2yi, ~2
111. 131, 175, 176, 215
111. '216 217 298
"178 V a
322
73, 79,81
111.77
78
58,251. !II. 49
0s LI. #5
St. Catharine's altar, Holymod, 11.
St. Cathenne of Sienna, Convenl
St. Cecilii hall, I. 151, *a5z, II.
St. Christopher's altar, St. Giles's
St. Clair Lord 1. 16g
St. Clai;of St.'Clair, General, 111.
175
Church, 11. 264, 111. a
n z
St. Clair of Roslin William, 11.
354 (sec sinclair dar~ William)
St. colme Street '11. 105
St. Columba's Ekcooal Church. I. . *
9 5 .
Church, 11. 6 3 , 264
St. Crispin's altar, St. Giles's
St. Cuthbert, Bishop of Durham,
11. 13r
295
St. Cuthben's chapel of ease, 11.
St. Cuthben's Church. Pkatc I. I.
incumbents, 11. 131;. the old
manse, 11. 132 ;demolition of the
old church, 11. 134, 136 ; erection
of the new building, 11. 134 ; the
old and new churches, 11. 131
'133, * 136, * 137 ; burials unde:
thesteeple 11. 135; theoldpoorhouse,
11.'135, 111. 83
St. Cuthbert's Free Church, 11.225
St. Cuthbert's Lane, 11. 335
St. David Street, 11. 16r, '65
St. David's Church, 11. ar6
St. Eligius, patron of the hammermen,
11.962
St. Eloi, 11. 263: carved groin
stone from Chapel of, St. Giles's
Church, I. * 147, 11. 262
St. Eloi's eo-. 11. 262
St. George's 'Church: Charlotte
St. Georie's Episco$l chapel, 11.
Square 11. 115, 126 173, 175
'90
St. Geor e's Free Church, 11. 138,
St. George's Well 111. 75
St. Giles, the pation saint of Edinburgh,
I. 138, 141, 254: seal of,
I. * 140 ; procgsiou of the saint's
relics I. 140
St. GilehChurch, 1. *I, 42,47, so,
51, 52.55, ~ 6 7 8 ~ 9 4 , IV. xm, Iax,
123, 138-147, 152, 18% 186, rga,
11. 15, 957 234, 3167 37% 111. 31,
z10,115. 75
GENERAL INDEX.
51, 173, 184; its early history
I. 138 139; the Norman door
way, i. 139, 141' the Preston
relic, I. 140; Sir DAvid Lindesaj
on the rocessionists, I. 141,
chapel ofsobert Duke of Albany:
I. 142; funeral of the Regent
Murray, I. 143; the "gude
Regent's aisle," rb. ; the Assem.
blyaisle, I. 144; disputes between
am- VI. and the Church party, I. 144,146'departureofJamesVI.
I. 146 ; Haddo's hole, ib. ; thi
Napier tomb, id. ; the spire and
lantern, I. '144, 146; theclock
and bells, I. 146 ; the Krames, I.
147 ; restorations of 1878 ib. ;
the or an, ib. ; plan of St. kiles's
Churcf I. *1452 the High
Church' 1. *I 8 149; removal
of hone;: from f f. 384
3t. Giles's Chdchyard, I. 148, 149,
157 11. 379
31. Ghes's Grange, 111. 47, 49, 52,
54 ;, its vicar, 111. 49
3t. Giles's Kirkyard, 11. 239
3t. GilesStreethow PrincaStreet).
I. 286 11. 11;
3t. Gd&s Street, Leith, 111. 223,
226 234
3t. Jimes's chapel, Newhaven, 111.
216, 295, 298, p; remains of,
3t. James'schapel,Leith, III.*240,
111. 297
243
3t. ams'sOpw=opalchapel 11.184
jt.jame~'sEp~opalChurcd,Leith,
111. *241, 243
3t. James's Square, I. 366. 11. 176, . _ _ . .~
19.
3t, lohn the Baotist's Chaoel. 111. . . si, 53
St. John's altar, St. Giles's Church,
II.26?,65
3t.John sCatholicChapel, Brighton
St. Johks chapel, Burghmuir, 111.
Place 111. 147
126, 134, d, 338, 383
3t. John's Established Church, I.
291
Leith 111. *n44
jt. John's Established Church,
jt. Johr;'s Free Church I. z 5, 314
Zt. John's Free Church,'Leiti, 111.
j t T p Hill I. 82
It. ohn's Stdet, 1. 325, 11. 2, 9,
jt. Katherine of Scienna, Convent
2, 53, 329 ; ruins of,
jt. Kathanne's altar, Kmk-of-Field,
jt. Katharine's altar, St. Margaret's
It. Katherine's chapel, Currie, 111.
jt. Katherine's estate, 111. 330
it. Katharine's Place, 111. 54
it. Katharine's Thorn, 11. 363,
it. Katherine's Well, Liberton, 111.
25, 26 27, 31, 111. 63
of 111. 51
IiI. *S4 ; 12 history, ib. ; seal of,
111. *55.
111. I
chapel, Libaton, 111. 53
332
111.54
328, 3291 330
chapel of I 383, 384
it. Leonard, Suburb of, I. 382;
it. Leonard's 'craigs, I. 75, III. 27,
142
it. Leonard's Hill, I. 55, 384, 11.
34 ; combat near, I. 383
it. Leonard's, Leith, 111. 227
it. Leonard's Kirkyard, 11.379
it. Leonards Loan, I. 383
it. Leonard's Well, 111. 89
it. Leonard's Wynd, 11. 54
it. Luke's Free Church, II.r53,.r55
it. Magdalene's Chapel, I. 240
it. Margaret, I. 16, 18, I
it. Margaxet's Chapel, adinburgh
Castle, I. 19, *zo, 76; chancel
arch of I. *24
it. Margset'sconvent, III.45,'48
it. Margaret's Loch, 11. 319
it. Margaret's Tower, Edinburgh
it. Margaret's Well, Edinburgh
Cade. I. 36, 48, 78
Castle, I. 49
St. Margaret's Well, Restalrig, 11.
St. LIC~ chapel &nLtarian), II.
11, 313, 111. I2 131
214
St. Mark's Episcopal chapel, Port*
bello 111. 147 *153
St. M L j Magdhene chapel, New
Hailes 111. 149, 366
St. M& Magdalene's Chapel, 11.
258, 261, 26a *a64' mterior 11.
264 : tabled on the walls,' 11.
262 *268
St. MkMagdalene's Hospital, 11.
26r, 262
St. Mary's Cathedral 11. 116, 211;
exterior and interior, 11. *ZIZ,
'213
St. Mary'sChapel, Niddry's Wynd,
St. M&s Ckpel, broughton
Street, I. z6z
St. Mary's Church, South Leith,
111. 130, 135, 182, 196, *217,218,
* z ~ o 222 244 ; its early hatory,
I. 247 251, 298 11. 26
III.;I8 :19
St. Mary'; Convent I. 107,382
St. Mary's Free Ch$ch 11. 184
St. Mary's Hos ita1 I. :97
St. Mary's-in-t\e-$ield 11. '34
251, 252, III. 1 7 ; its history:
111. I, a
St. Mary's parish church, 11. 191 ;
school-house, 111. 87
St. Mary's Port, 1. 382
St. Mary's Roman Catholic chapel,
St. Maryi Street' I. p 11. 238
St. Mary'sWynd,' 1.38, A, 217,219,
274. 275 * 29.298,2 I 335,375
382, 11. ;3, 249.~84~1%. 6 ; door!
head in 1. *3m
St Matth:w'sWell, Roslio,III. 3 I
St. Michael's Church, Inveres?c,
St. Nicholas Church North Leith,
111. 168, 176, 187 :its demolition
by Monk, 111. 187 255
St. Nicholas Wyud, fII. 256
St. Ninian's altar, St. Giles's
Church, 111. 119
St. Ninian's Chapel, I. 364, 111.72
St. Ninian's Church, North Leith,
11. 47, 111. 167 *I# 251 aga;
pe,tv tyrann in, iii. 25;; its
ministers IIE 254, 2 5 5 ; now a
g r a n a r y , ' ~ ~ ~ . 254,255
St. Niuian's Churchyard 111. *256
Sc. Ninian's Free Churih, North
Leith, 111.255
Si. Ninian's Row, I. 366,II. 103,176
St. Patrick Square, 11. 339
St. Patrick Street, I. 366, 11. 346
St. Patricks Romao Catholic
Church, 1. 278, 11. 249
St.Paul's Chapel,CarmbWsClo,
I. 239 *a40
St. Pads Episcopal Chapel, I. 278
St. Paul's Episcopal Church, York
Place, 11.60,188,198,248
St. Paul's Wark, 11. 101
St. Peter'sChurch,RoxburghPlace,
11. '79' school 11. 326
111.149
11. 338
St. Peter's Close 11. 255
St. Peter'sEpiscdpal Church,II1.51
St. Peter's Pend, 11. 255
St. Roque, 111.47 ; legends of, 111.
46,47
St. Roque's Chapel, Rurghmuir,
111.47, ?g : ruins of, Ill. *48
St. Roque s Day 111. 47
St. Roque's KirI&rd, 11. 379
St. Salvator's altar, St. Giles's
St. Staphhs Church, 111. * 81,83,
St. Thomas's Epkopal Chapel, 11.
Church 111. 35
85
. . - .
St?homas's Church, Leith, 111.
St. Tkdudna, 111. r p ; Church of,
St. Vincen't strhet, III. 83
Stafford Street, 11. 211
Stage, The, in Edinburgh, I.
247 248 '253
III.rz8 130 '3'
352
Stagesoaches, Establiihment of,
11.15, 16,235,236; the Glasgow,
11.121
Stained-glass window P a r l i i e n t
House 1. 159 Plati6
stainh0u;e. La;d of, I. 1:9*
389
Stair, Earlof, I. p, 94,37 , 11. 38,
95, 167, 327, 348, 358, h. 3%
367
E.W~ Stair, I. 103,
Stair, Eliiheth Countess of 1. xrn
-106 17r, 111. 41 ; the "Iavic
mirrd "1.103; hermarriagewrth
Stamp duty, In0uence of the, on
newspapers, I. 284,285
Stamp Office, I. 234,267
Stamp Office Close, I. *ng, 231,
232 ; execution there, 1.2%
Standard Life Assurance Company,
11. '3
Stantied tragedy The I. 281
ztanley, Star and the Garter" acto:, 1. tavern ;30 I. 187
Steam communication iivd~eith to
Stedman Dr. John 11.301
Steele, sir Richard,,l: 106
Steil Pate, the musicin, I. 251
Stenkor Stenhouse, 111.339
Steveu Rev. Dr,, the historm of
the high School, 11.11 287, a88,
289, 291:296,35Sr 3&?11- 135
Stevenlaws Close 11.242
Stevenson, Dr. Ahibald, 11. 144
147
Stevenson, Duncan, and the Beacm
newspaper, I. 181, 182 11.241
Stevenson Dr. John I d 18 19~27
Stewart &hibald 'Lord Phvost,
I. 318, 322, 32;) 11. 280, 283;
house of I. 318 * 325
Stewart ojAllanbLk, Sir John, 11.
26
Stewart Sir Alexander, I. 195
Stewart' of Colmess, Sir J ~ C S ,
Provost, 11. 281,111. 340
Stewart, Sir ames, I. 1r7
stewart of &trees Sir Jmi-
I. 229, 111. 34-3;~ ; his h o d
in Advocate's Close, I. *223, Ill.
30' Sir Thomas ib.
Stewah Sir Lewis '111. 364
Stewariof Monk&, Sir Williim,
Murder of I. 196,258, 259, 74
Stewart of 'Grantully, Sir john,
Stewart of Grantully, Sir George,
11. 350; his marriage, 111.90
Stewart, Dugald, I. 106, 156, 11.
17, 39, 120, 168, 195, m~r 2 3,
111.20,55; gray of II. 29 ; his
father, 111.20 ; h e cife, 11. 206 :
her brother, 11. 207; Dugalds
monument 11. III
Stewart Jades 111.79
Stewart'of Gariies, Alexander, 11.
225
Stewart Belshes of Invermay, Sir
John, 11. 383.
Stewart, Daniel, 111. 67; hospital
of, id.; ne* from Drumsheugh
London, 111. 2x1
11. 97 117, 128,13 , 151,175, ZIO
Steel, si; John,scuiptor, I. 159,372.
11. 351
grounds, 111. *68
road, 'I. 3%
3 d
111.221
Stewart Robert, Abbot of Holy-
Stewart of Castle Stewart 11. 157
Stewart ofGarth, Genera;, 11. 150,
Stewart of Strathdon, Sir Robert,
Stewart Colonel ohn, 11. 350
stewart' hptain Eeorge, 11.257
Stewart: Lieut.Colone1 Matthew,
Stewart, Captain James, I. 195, I@
Stewart of W t r e e s , I. 6a
Stewart, Execution of Alexander,
Stewart Lady Margaret 111. n I
Stewart'of lsle Mn., 11.' 162
Stewart, Nichblson, the actor, I.
Stewartfield manor-how, 111. 88,
Stewart s Hospital, 11. 63, 111.67
Stewarth oysteehouse, i. I m
Stirling, Enrls "f T I ? E
Stirliig
stirling gi ~ e w a I. 44 42 11.223
stirliig: sir w&, Lord Rovost,
Stirling of Kek, Sir William, 11.
158 ; h e daughter, 111.35
Stirling, General Graham, I I. 153
Stirling, Mrs., actRsq I. 35f
11. d
a youth, 11. 231
343
91, * 93
11. ~ $ 2 283, 391
I. 374 ... 283, 335, 343 343 III, 140; dew of, II. 169 vanous buildings in, 11. 172; it! early residents, 11. ...

Vol. 6  p. 389 (Rel. 0.25)

down the street, reached Holyrood, where he
sought sanctuary in the chapel of St. Augustine;
there his English pursuers found him on his knees
before the altar.
WEST FRONT OF HOLYROOD ABBEY CHUKCH.
ever intent on revenge, joined Sir William Douglas,
the Black Knight of Liddesdale, whose forces lay
in the fastnesses of Pentland Muir.
From there one night he led the Liddesdale men,
tion, violate the sanctuary, they set a guard upon ! the then open and unwalled city, attacked the
the church, resolving to starve him into surrender ; i English, and left 400 of them dead in the streets.
but fortunately for Robert Prendergast, the monks
.of Holyrood were loyal to their king, and thinking
probably an Englishman less in the world mattered
:little from a Scottish point of view, they conveyed
to him provisions every night unseen by the guard,
For twelve days and nights he lurked by the altar
*of St. Augustine, until, disguised in a monk‘s cowl
;and gown, he effected an escape; and more than
Sir William Douglas re-captured the fortress in the
following year.
In 1370 David 11. was interred with every
solemnity before the high altar, the site of which is
now in the Palace Garden. It was inscribed, “UiC
Rex sub Zapide Davici izditus af tumukrfus,” as
given by Fordun.
On the 18th of January, 1384-5, Robert IL, ... the street, reached Holyrood, where he sought sanctuary in the chapel of St. Augustine; there his English ...

Vol. 3  p. 53 (Rel. 0.25)

encrusted with legends, dates, and coats of arms,
for ages formed one of the most important features
of the Burghmuir.
This was the mansion of Wrychtis-housis, belonging
to an old baronial family named Napier,
WRIGHT’S HOUSES AND THE BARCLAY CHURCH, FROM BRUNTSFIELD LINKS.
alliances by which the family succession of the
Napiers of the Wrychtis-housis had been continued
from early times.”
By the Chamberlain Rolls, William Napier of
the Wrychtis-housis was Constable of the Castle of
to which additions had been made as generations
succeeded each other, but the original part or
nucleus of which was a simple old Scottish tower
of considerable height. “ The general effect of this
antique pile,” says Wilson, “ was greatly enhanced
on approaching it, by the numerous heraldic
devices and inscriptions which adorned every
window, doorway, and ornamental pinnacle, the
whole wall being crowded with armorial bearings,
designed to perpetuate the memory of the noble
Edinburgh in 1390, in succession to John, Earl of
Carrick (eldest son of King Robert 11.); and it is
most probable that he was the same William
Napier who held that office in 1402, and who,
in the first years of the fifteenth century, with the
aid of Archibald, Earl of Douglas, and the hapless
Duke of Rothesay, maintained that important
fortress against Henry IV. and all the might of
England.
To the gallant resistance made on this occasioo, ... with legends, dates, and coats of arms, for ages formed one of the most important features of the ...

Vol. 5  p. 32 (Rel. 0.25)

234 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Grassmarket.
Some English writers have denied that Henry
was ever in Edinburgh at any time; and that
the Queen alone came, while he remained at
Kikcudbright. But Sir Walter Scott, in a note to
Mannion,” records, that he had seen in possession
of Lord Napier, “ a grant by Henry of forty merks
to his lordship’s ancestor, John Napier (of Merchiston),
subscribed by the King himself at
Edinburgh, the 28th August, in the thirty-ninth
year of his reign, which exactly corresponds with
the year of God, 1461.”
Abercrombie, in his Martial Achievements,”
after detailing some negociations between the
Scottish ministry of James 111. (then a minor) and
Henry VI., says, that after they were complete,
‘‘ the indefatigable Queen of England left the King,
her husband, at his lodgings in the Greyfriars of
Edinburgh, where his own inclinations to devotion
and solitude made him choose to reside, and went
with her son into France, not doubting but that by
the mediation of the King of Sicily, her father, she
should be able to purchase both men and money
in that kingdom.”
That a church would naturally form a most
nedessary appendage to such a foundation as this
monastery can scarcely be doubted, and Wilson
says that he is inclined to infer the existence of
one, and of a churchyard, long before Queen
Mary‘s grant of the gardens to the city, and of this
three proofs can be given at least.
A portion of the treaty of peace between James
111. and Edward IV. included a proposal of the
latter that his youngest daughter, the Princess
Cecilia, then in her fourth year, should be betrothed
to the Crown Prince of Scotland, then an
infant of two years old, and that her dowry 01
zo,ooo merks should be paid by annual instalments
commencing from the date of the contract.
Os this basis a peace was concluded, the ceremony
of its ratification being performed, along with the be
trothal, 44in the church of the Grey Friars, at
Edinburgh, where the Earl of Lindsay and Lord
Scrope appeared as the representatives of theiI
respective sovereigns.”
The “ Diurnal of Occurrents records that on the
7th July, 1571, the armed craftsmen made their
musters ‘4in the Gray Friere Kirk Yaird,” and,
though the date of the modem church, to which we
shall refer, is 1613, Birrel, in his diary, under date
26th April, 1598, refers to works in progress by
In 1559, when the storm of the Reformation
broke forth, the Earl of Argyle entered Edinburgh
with his followers, and “ the work of purification ’I
began with a vengeance. The Trinity College
the Societie at the Gray Friar Kirke.”
Church, St Giles’s, St. Mary-in-the-Field, the monasteries
of the Black and Grey Friars, were pillaged
of everything they contained Of the two iatter
establishments the bare walls alone were left standing.
In 1560 the stones of these two edifices were
ordered to be used for the bigging of dykes j” and
other works connected with the Good Town j and
in 1562 we are told that a good crop of corn
was sown in the Grey Friars’ Yard by “Rowye
Gairdner, fleschour,” so that it could not have
been a place for interment at that time.
The Greyfriars’ Port was a gate which led to
an unenclosed common, skirting the north side of
the Burgh Muir, and which was only included in
the precincts of the city by the last extension of
the walls in 1618, when the land, ten acres in
extent, was purchased by the city from Towers of
Inverleith.
In 1530 a woman named Katharine Heriot,
accused of theft and bringing contagious sickness
from Leith into the city, was ordered to be drowned
in the, Quarry Holes at the Greyfriars’ Port. In
the same year, Janet Gowane, accused of haiffand
the pestilens apone hir,” was branded on both
cheeks at the same place, and expelled the city.
This gate was afterwards called the Society and
also the Bristo Port.
Among the edifices removed in the Grassmarket
was a very quaint one, immediately westward of
Heriot’s Bridge, which exhibited a very perfect
specimen of a remarkably antique style of window,
with folding shutters and transom of oak entire
below, and glass in the upper part set in ornamental
patterns of lead.
Near this is the New Corn Exchange, designed
by David Cousin, and erected in 1849 at the
cost of Azo,ooo, measuring 160feet long by 120
broad ; it is in the Italian style, with a handsome
front of three storeys, and a campanile or belfry
at the north end. It is fitted up with desks and
stalls for the purpose of mercantile transactions,
and has been, from its great size and space
internally, the scene of many public festivals, the
chief of which were perhaps the great Crimean
banquet, given there on the 31st of October, 1856,
to the soldiers of the 34th Foot, 5th Dragoon
Guards, and Royal Artillery j and that other given
after the close of the Indian Mutiny to the soldiers
of the Rossshire Buffs, which elicited a very
striking display of high national enthusiasm.
On the north side of the Market Place there yet
stands the old White Hart Inn, an edifice of considerable
antiquity. It was a place of entertainment
as far back perhaps as the days when the Highland
drovers cage to market armed with sword and ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Grassmarket. Some English writers have denied that Henry was ever in Edinburgh at any ...

Vol. 4  p. 234 (Rel. 0.25)

2 48 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. LCowgate.
the historian) became senior minister of the Cowgate
chapel.
One of his immediate predecessors, the Rev.
Mr. Fitzsimmons, an Englishman, became seriously
embroiled with the authorities, and was arraigned
Two of these four, Vanvelde and Jaffie, had
escaped from the Castle by sawing through their
window bars with a sword-blade furnished to them
by John Armour, a clerk in the city. The other
two were on parole. The Hon. Henry Erslcine
THE MEAL MARKET, COWGATE.
before the High Court of Justiciary in July, 1790,
on the charge of aiding the escape of Jean Bap
tiste Vanvelde, Jean Jacques Jaffie, Re'ne' Griffon,
and Hypolite Depondt, French prisoners, from the
Castle of Edinburgh, by concealing them in his
house, and taking them in the Newhaven fishing
boat of Neil Drysdale to the Isle of Inchkeith,
where they remained hidden till taken to a cartel
ship, commanded by Captain Robertson, in Leith
Roads.
defended Mr. Fitzsimmons, who was sentenced to
three months' imprisonment in the Tolbooth. In
the following September 600 French prisoners (including
the crew of the Vicforicux) were marched
from the Castle, under a guard of the North York
Militia, to Leith, where they embarked for England
in care of 150 bayonets of the 7rst Highlanders,
After the erection of St. Paul's Church, in York
Place, the Cowgate Chapel was purchased by the ... 48 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. LCowgate. the historian) became senior minister of the Cowgate chapel. One of his ...

Vol. 4  p. 248 (Rel. 0.25)

OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Victoria Terrace. 292
of subscribers, and is transferable under certain
rules.
Judging from the large number of books lent
during the year, the interest in this Institution is
not only real, but steadily maintained. The ordinary
In recording the destruction of Mauchine's
Close, Liberton's Wynd, and other old alleys, we
referred to the erection of Melbourne Place. Here
Ceorge IV. Bridge goes southward at right angles
from the Lawnmarket, and stretches across the
ST. AUGUSTINE'S CHURCH.
members on the roll number more than 600, an
average that seldom varies. Though the chief
entrance is from Victoria Terrace, the library is
the proprietor of the whole property in Riddell's
Close behind, from the basement to the attics.
The first, or principal floor, is occupied by the
library (and the rest is let to tenants) and is in the
house of Bailie Macmoran, who, as we have related,
was shot by William Sinclair, a High School boy,
in the reign of James VI.
Cowgate, opposite Bank Street, to a point near the
south end of the Candlemaker Row.
The foundation-stone of this magnificent bridge,
which was projected in 1825, was laid on the 15th
of August, 1827; but after being begun, and for
some time left in an unfinished state, through a
failure of funds, it was finally completed in 1836.
It occasioned the demolition of many picturesque
specimens of the city's ancient edifices, but forms
a spacious thoroughfare three hundred yards in ... AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Victoria Terrace. 292 of subscribers, and is transferable under certain rules. Judging ...

Vol. 2  p. 292 (Rel. 0.25)

North Bridge.] THE ORPHAN HOSPITAL 359
c
CHAPTER XLVI:
EAST SIDE OF THE NORTH BRIDGE (concZdeJJ.
The Old Orphan Hospital-Its Foundation. Object, and Removal-Lady Glenorchy’s Chapel-Her Disputes with the Presbytery-Dr. SnelI
Jones-Demolition of the Chapel and School-Old Physic Gardens Formed-The Gardens-Sir Andrew Balfm-James Sutherland-
Inundated in x68pSutherland‘s Efforts to Improve the Gardcn-Professor Hope.
ABOUT IOO feet east of the bridge, and the same
distance south of the theatre which Whitefield
to his dismay saw built in the park of the Orphan
Hospital, stood the latter edifice, the slender,
pointed spire of which was a conspicuous object in
this quarter of the city.
A hospital for the maintenance and education
of orphan children was originally designed by Mr.
Andrew Gardiner, merchant, and some other
citizens, in 1732. The suggestion met with the
approval of the Society for the Propagation of
Christian Knowledge, then located in what was
anciently named Bassandyne’s Close ; and it was
moreover assisted by liberal subscriptions and
collections at the church doors. At first a house
was hired, and thirty orphans placed in it. According
to Maitland, in November, 1733, the
hospital was founded; it stood 340 feet northwest
of the Trinity College Church, and in its
formation a part of the burial ground attached to
the latter was used.
In 1738 the Town Council granted the hospital
a seal of cause, and in 1742 they obtained royal
letters patent creating it a corporation, by which
most of the Scottish officers of State, and the heads
of different societies in Edinburgh, are constituent
members. This chanty is so extensive in its
benevolence, that children from any part of the
British Empire have the right of admission, SO far
as the funds will admit-indigence, and the
number of children in a poor family being the
None, however, are admitted under the age of
seven, or retained after they are past fourteen, as
at that time of life the managers are seldom at a
loss to dispose of them, “the young folks,” says
Arnot, “ choosing to follow trades, and the public
entertaining so good an opinion of the manner in
which they have been brought up, that manufacturers
and others are very ready to take them into
their employment. There are about,” he adds, in
1779, “one hundred orpham maintained in this
hospital.”
This number was increased in 1781, when Mr.
Thomas Tod, merchant in Edinburgh, became
treasurer. It was then greatly enlarged for the
better accommodation of the children, ‘‘ and to
enable them to perform a variety of work, from the
. best title to it.
produce of which the expenses of their education
and maintenance were lessened, and healthy and
cheerful exercise furnished, suitable to their years.”
It is remarkable,” says Kincaid, “ that from
January, 1784, to January, 1787, out of from 130 to
140 young children not one has died. A particular
account of the rise, progress, present state,
and intended enlargement of this hospital was
publisted by the treasurer (Mr. Tod), wherein is a
print of the elevation, with two wings,.which the
managers intend to build so soon as the funds will
permit, when there will be room for zoo orphans.”
In its slender spire hung two bells, and therein
also stood the ancient clock of the Netherbow
Port, now in use at the Dean.
The revenues were inconsiderable, and it was
chiefly supported by benefactions and collections
made at the churches in the city. Howard, the
philanthropist, who visited it more than once, and
made himself acquainted with the constitution and
management of this hospital, Acknowledged it to be
one of the best and most useful charities in Europe.
A portrait of him hangs in the new Orphan Hospital
at the Dean, the old building we have described
having been removed in 1845 by the operations
of the North British Railway, and consequently
being now a thing of the past, like the chapel of
Lady Glenorchy, which shared the same fate at the
same time.
This edifice stood in the low ground, between
the Orphan Hospital and the Trinity College
Church, about 300 feet eastward of the north arch
of the Bridge.
Wilhelmina Maxwell, Viscountess Dowaget of
John Viscount Glenorchy, who was a kind of
Scottish Countess of Huntingdon in her day, was
the foundress of this chapel, which was a plain,
lofty stone building, but neatly fitted up- within
with two great galleries, that ran round the sides
of the edifice, and was long a conspicuous object
to all who crossed the Bridge. It was seated for
2,000 persons, and the middle was appropriated to
the poor, who sat there gratis to the number of
some hundreds. ‘‘ Whether,” says Arnot, “before
Lady Glenorchy founded this institution there were
churches sufficient for accommodating the inhabitants
we shall not pretend to determine. Such,
indeed, is the demand for seats, and so little arg ... Bridge.] THE ORPHAN HOSPITAL 359 c CHAPTER XLVI: EAST SIDE OF THE NORTH BRIDGE (concZdeJJ. The Old Orphan ...

Vol. 2  p. 359 (Rel. 0.25)

248 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Leith.
This marriage is also referred to by Nisbet in
his Heraldry,” Vol. I., so George Logan would
seem to have been fortunate in out-rivalling the
‘‘ ane-and-forty wooing at her.”
The house was demolished, as stated, in 1840.
ten patients and inmates, and has a revenue of
A300 per annum. “ BLISSIT . BE. GOD . OF . HIS.
GIFTES . 1601.I.K.S.H:’ appears in a large square
panel on an old house near the head of the Sheriff
Brae; and nearly the same hvourite motto, with
THE ANCIENT COUNCIL CHAMBER, COAL HILL.
to make way for St. Thomas’s Church with its almshouses
erected by Sir John Gladstone, Bart., of
Fasque. It is clustered with a manse, schoolhouse,
and the asylum, forming the whole into a
handsome range of Gothic edifices, constructed at a
cost off;ro,ooo, from a design by John Henderson,
of Edinburgh.
The asylum is a refuge and hospital for females
afflicted with incurable diseases, and accommodates
the date 1629, and the initials I.H., K.G., appears
on the door lintel of another house, having a,square
staircase in a kind of projecting tower, and a
great chimney corbelled on its street front; but
as to the inmates of either no record remains.
The Leith Hospital, Humane Society, and Casualty
Hospital are all located together now in Mill
Lane, at the head of the Sheriff Brae-spacious
edifices, having a frontage to the former of 150 feet; ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Leith. This marriage is also referred to by Nisbet in his Heraldry,” Vol. I., so ...

Vol. 6  p. 248 (Rel. 0.25)

Hawthornden,] HAWTHORNDEN. 353
ROSLIN CHAPEL :-THE @' 'PRENTICE PILLAR." (From a Phtogra#h by G. W. WiAm Ct Co.)
CHAPTER XLII.
THE ENVIRONS OF EDINBURGH-(codinwed).
Hawthornden-The Abernethys-The Drummonds-The Cavalier and Poet-The Cavern+Wallace's Cave and Camp-Count Lockhart's
Monument-Captain Philip Lockhart of Dryden--Lauwade-The Ancient Church-The Coal Seams-"The Gray Brother "--soolt-De
Quincey-Clerk of Eldin.
HAWTHORNDEN, the well-known seat of the Drummond
family, stands on the south bank of the
North Esk, amidst exquisitely picturesque and
romantic scenery. Constructed with reference to
strength, it surmounts to the very edge a grey and
almost insulated cliff, which starts perpendicularly
up from the brawling river. There it is perched
high in air amid a wooded ravine, through which
the Esk flows between two walls of lofty and
141
abrupt rock, covered by a wonderful profusion of
foliage, interwoven with festoons of ivy-a literal
jungle of mosses, ferns, and creepers. The greatest
charm of the almost oppressive solitude is due
to the bold variety of outline, and the contrast of
colour, which at every spot the landscape exhibit.
On the summit of that insulated rock are still
the ruins of a fortalice of unknown antiquity4
vaulted tower, fifteen feet square internally, with ... HAWTHORNDEN. 353 ROSLIN CHAPEL :-THE @' 'PRENTICE PILLAR." (From a Phtogra#h by G. W. WiAm Ct ...

Vol. 6  p. 353 (Rel. 0.25)

Holyrood.] SUCCESSION. OF ABBOTS. 47
between Randolph the famous’ Earl of Moray and
Sir William Oliphant, in connection with the forfeited
estate of William of Monte Alto. Another
species of Parliament was held at Holyrood on
the 10th of February, in the year 1333-4, when
Edward 111. received the enforced homage of his
creature Baliol.
XVI. JOHN II., abbot, appears as a witness to
three charters in 1338, granted to William of
Livingston, William of Creighton, and Henry of
Brade (Braid?).
XVII. BARTHOLOMEW, abbot in 1342.
XVIII. THOMAS, abbot, witnessed a charter to
William Douglas of that ilk, Sir James of Sandilands,
and the Lady Elenora Bruce, relict of Alexander
Earl of Carrick, nephew of Robert I., of the
lands of the West Calder. On the 8th of May,
1366, a council was held at Holyrood, at which the
Scottish nobles treated with ridicule and contempt
the pretensions of the kings of England, and sanctioned
an assessment for the ransom of David II.,
taken prisoner at the battle of Durham. That
monarch was buried before the high altar in 1371,
and Edward 111. granted a safe conduct to certain
persons proceeding to Flanders to provide for the
tomb in which he was placed.
XIX. JOHN III., abbot on the 11th of January,
~372. During his term of office, John of Gaunt
Duke of Lancaster, fourth son of Edward III., was
hospitably entertained at Holyrood, when compelled
to take flight from his enemies in England.
XX. DAVID, abbot on the 18th of January, in
the thirteenth year of Robert 11. The abbey was
burned by the armyof Richard 11. whose army
encamped at Restalrig; but it was soon after
repaired. David is mentioned in a charter dated
at Perth, 1384-5.
XXI. JOHN (formerly Dean of Leith) was abbot
on the 8th of May, 1386. His name occurs in
several charters and other documents, and for the
last time in the indenture or lease of the Canonmills
to the city of Edinburgh, 12th September,
1423. In his time Henry IV. spared the monastery
in gratitude for the kindness of the monks to
his exiled father John of Gaunt.
XXII. PATRICK, abbot 5th September, 1435.
In his term of office James II., who had been born
in the abbey, was crowned there in his sixth year,
on the 25th March, 1436-7; and anothet high
ceremony was performed in the same church when
Mary of Gueldres was crowned -as Queen Consort
in July, 1449. In the preceding year, John Bishop
of Galloway elect became an inmate of the abbey,
and was buried in the cloisters.
XXIII. JAMES, abbot 26th April, 14~0.
XXIV. ARCHIBALD CRAWFORD, abbot in 1457.
He was son of Sir William‘ Crawford of Haining,
and had previously been Prior of Holytood. In
1450 he was one of the commissioners who treated
with the English at Coventry concerning a truce ;
and again in 1474, concerning a marriage between
James Duke of Rothesay and the Princess Cecile,
second daughter of Edward IV. of England. He
was Lord High Treasurer of Scotland in 1480.
He died in 1483. On the abbey church (according
to Crawford) his arms were carved niore than
thirty times. “He added the buttresses on the
walls of the north and south aisles, and probably
built the rich doorway which opens into the north
aisle.” Many finely executed coats armorial are
found over the niches, among them Abbot Crawford’s
frequently- fesse ermine, with a star of five
points, in chief, surmounted by an abbot’s mitre
resting on a pastoral staff.
XXV. ROBERT BELLENDEN, abbot in 1486,
when commissioner concerning a truce with
England. He was still abbot in 1498, and his
virtues are celebrated by his namesake, the archdean
of Moray, canon of ROSS, and translator of
Boece, who says ‘‘ he left the abbey, and died ane
Chartour-monk.” In 1507 the Papal legate presented
James IV., in the name of Pope Julius II.,
in the church, amid a brilliant crowd of nobles,
with a purple crown adorned by golden lilies, and
a sword of state studded with gems, which is still
preserved in the Castle of Edinburgh. He also
brought a bull, bestowing upon James the title of
Defender of the Faith. Abbot Bellenden, in 1493,
founded a chapel in North Leith, dedicated to St.
Ninian, latterly degraded into a victual granary
The causes moving the abbot to build this chapei,
independent of the spiritual wants of the people,
were manifold, as set forth in the charter of
erection. The bridge connecting North and South
Leith, over which he levied toll, was erected at the
same time.
XXVI. GEORGE CRICHTOUN, abbot in 1515,
and Lord Privy Seal, was promoted to the see of
Uunkeld in 1528. As we have recorded elsewhere,
he was the founder of the Hospital of St. Thomas,
near the Water Gate. An interesting relic of his
abbacy exists at present in England.
About the year 1750, when a grave was being
dug in the chancel of St Stephen’s church, St.
Albans, in Hertfordshire, there was found buried
in the soil an ancient lectern bearing his name, and
which is supposed to have been concealed there at
some time during the Civil Wars. It is of cast
brass, and handsonie in design, consisting of an eagle
with expanded wings, supported by a shaft deco-
The piers still remain. ... SUCCESSION. OF ABBOTS. 47 between Randolph the famous’ Earl of Moray and Sir William Oliphant, in ...

Vol. 3  p. 47 (Rel. 0.25)

coate3 Street.] ST, MARY’S CATHEDRAL 211
ward of Princes Street, this estate includes the sites
of Coates Crescent, Melville,Walker, Stafford Streets,
and other thoroughfares, yielding a rental of aboul
&zo,ooo yearly, and representing a capital oi
~400,000, the whole of which, in 1870, was be
queathed by the late Misses Walker of Coates and
Drumsheugh, for the erection of a cathedral for the
Scottish Episcopal Church, dedicated to St. Maq
facing the west end of Melville Street.
Miss Mary Walker-the last of an old Episcopalian
family-died in 1871, her sister Barbara having
pre-deceased her. The foundation-stone was laid
with impressive ceremony, by the Duke of Buccleuchj
assisted by some zoo clergy and laymen 01
the Episcopal communion on the zIst of May, 1874;
and when fully completed it will be the largest and
most beautiful church that has been erected in
Scotland, or perhaps in Great Britain since the
Reformation. The total cost, when finished, will
be about .&132,567.
The architect, Sir Gilbert Scott, founded his
design on the early Pointed style of architecture.
The axis of this cathedral coincides with the
centre of Melville Street, its site being immediately
to the south of Coates House, the sole example of
an old Scottish mansion surviving in the New Town.
The form adopted is that of a cruciform church, the
general effect being enhanced by the introduction
to the central tower of two minor, though still lofty,
towers at the western end. The plan embraces a
choir with north and south aisles ; at the intersection
of the transepts rises the central or rood tower,‘z75
feet inheight; the total length of the edifice externally
is 278 feet 2 inches, and the breath 98 feet 6 inches.
The choir is 60 feet 9 inches long and 29 broad,
with aisles 16 feet wide, divided into two great and
four minar bays by beautifully clustered columps.
From the floor to the key-stones of the vaulting,
which is all of stone, the height is 58 feet. The
transepts, which project by one ‘bay beyond the
nave and choir, are .35 feet 4 inches long, by 30
feet g inches broad, with aisles above 13 feet wide.
This unusual proportion of breadth -was given to
the transepts to provide ample accommodation for
congregational purposes. To the north of the north
chancel aisle is the library, an apartment measuring
30 feet by I 9 feet. The main entrance of the church
is from Palmerston Place, opposite what are grotesquely
named Grosvenor Gardens. This elevation
is the most imposing modern Gothic fapde in Scotland,
severe in its purity, and rich in elaboration.
The most important features here are the portal and
great west window. The shafts and flanking arches
of the former are of red granite, from Shap in Westmoreland,
harmonising well with the fine nunmore
and Polmaise freestone of which the edifice i s built.
In the vesica of the centre pediment is a seated
figure of the Saviour, supporting with the left hand
a lamb, and with the outstretched right holding a
key. Around is the legend :-
SALVABITUR”
“EGO SUM OSTIUM; PER ME SI QUIS INTROIERIT
In the spandrils are figures of St. Peter and
John the Baptist. Below this grouping are ranged
along the door lintel angels bearing a scroll inscribed-
“TU ES CHRISTUS FILIUS DEI.”
The side elevations of the nave present the
usual features of the early Pointed style, the walls
of the aisle being substantially buttressed, dividing
the length into five bays, in each of which is a
double window. Above the clerestory runs a bold
cotnice, and from the wall head there springs a high
pitched roof. In the gable of the south transept is
anotherportal, the mouldings of which are exquisitely
carved. The window consists of three lancets separated
by massively clustered buttress shafts. Above
it is a rose window 24 feet in diameter, filled
in with geometrical tracery. Above it are five
pointed niches, containing statues of St. Paul and
St. Luke, Titus, Silas, and Timotheus.
the gable of the north transept has some features
peculiarly its own. The wheel window, 24 feet
in diameter, is of a later period than that in the
south gable, Over it is a statue of David. As
usual in cathedrals, the choir has been treated
with greater elaboration of design and detail than
the nave, especially in the triforium and clerestory.
The gable fronting Melville Street is nearly
occupied by a triple lancet window, the apex of
the arches being 54 feet from the ground. Above
is an arcade, the arches of which are filled by
statues of the mother of our Lord and the four
Evangelists. In the vesica is a figure of the
Saviour surrounded by angels in the act of adoration.
The four shafted and clustered pillars of the roodtower,
though framed to support a superincumbent
mass of no less than 6,000 tons, are finely proportioned
and even light in appearance. The tower
rises square from the roof in beautiful proportions,
the transition to the octagonal form taking place
at the height of 120 feet from the foundation.
Viewed from any point, the nave, with its longdrawn
aisles and interlacing arches, has a peculiarly
p n d and impressive effect. Designed in the
style of the twelfth century, the font stands in the
baptistery under the south-west tower. It is
massive, of yellowish alabaster streaked with red
Though treated in a somewhat similar manner, , ... Street.] ST, MARY’S CATHEDRAL 211 ward of Princes Street, this estate includes the sites of Coates ...

Vol. 4  p. 211 (Rel. 0.25)

Greyfriars Church.] PERSECUTION OF THE COVENANTERS. 371
guards, and a few, driven almost mad, achieved their
escape, but many died. All this, at the hands of their
own countrymen, these poor people had to endurethe
stubborn Scottish peasant, with his pride and
rectitude of heart, his tender, it might be weak and
ailing wife, with his infants and his aged parents.
to administer to the wants of the prisoners there
was one lady who was wont to come attended by
a young daughter possessed of considerable personal
attractions. Periodically they came to the iron gate
with food and raiment, collected among the charitable,
and between the young lady and one of the
A ROYAL EDINBURGH VOLUNTEER. (p?W7?J a Print Of tk Psriod.)
Some who signed a bond never to take up arms
against the Government were released ; others
found rest amid the graves on which they lay;
the remainder, to the number of two hundred and
fifty-seven, were sent to be sold as slaves in Barbadoes,
Jamaica, and New Jersey, but many were
drowned at sea
“ From the gloom of this sad story there is shed
one ray of romance,” says Chambers, in his ‘‘ Traditions.”
Among the sympathising people who dared
B6
younger captives an attachment sprang up.
Doubtless she loved him for the dangers he had
dared, and he loved her because she pitied them.
In happier days, long after, when their constancy
had been well tried by an exile which he suffered
in the plantations, this pair were married and settled
in Edinburgh, where they had sons and daughters.
A respectable elderly citizen,” adds Chambers,
‘‘ tells me he is descended from them”
After the Duke of Albany and York came, as ... Church.] PERSECUTION OF THE COVENANTERS. 371 guards, and a few, driven almost mad, achieved ...

Vol. 4  p. 377 (Rel. 0.25)

The Castle Hill.] THE RAGGED SCHOOL. 87
the said burgh situated under the Castle Hill t+
wards the north, to the head of the bank, and so
going down to the said North Loch,” &c.
This right of proprietary seems clear enough,
yet Lord Neaves decided in favour of the Crown,
and found that the ground adjacent to the
Castle of Edinburgh, including the Esplanade and
the north and south banks or braes,” belonged,
(‘jure coronte, to Her Majesty as part and pertinent
of the said Castle.”
CHAPTER IX.
THE CASTLE HILL (cmclded).
Dr. Guthrie’s Original Ragged School-Old Houses in the Streetof the Castle Hill-Duke of Gordon’s House, Blair’s Close-Webster‘s
CloscDr. Alex. Webster-Boswell’s Court-Hyndford House-Assembly Hall-Houses of the Marquis of Argyle, Sir Andrew Kcnnedy,
the Earl of Cassillis, the Laird of Cockpen--Lord Semple’s House-Lord Semple-Palace of Mary of Gub-Its Fate.
ON the north side of this thoroughfare-which,
within 150 years ago, was one of the most
aristocratic quarters of the old city-two great
breaches have been made: one when the Free
Church College was built in 1846, and the other, a
little later, when Short’s Observatory was built in
Ramsay Lane, together with the Original Ragged
School, which owes its existence to the philanthropic
efforts of the late Dr. Guthrie, who, with
Drs. Chalmers, Cunningham, and Candlish, took
so leading a part in the pon-intrusion controversy,
which ended in the disruption in 1843 and the
institution of the Free Church of Scotland. In 1847
Guthrie’s fervent and heart-stirring appeals on behalf
of the homeless and destitute children, the little
street Arabs of the Scottish capital, led to the
establishment of the Edinburgh Original Ragged
Industrial School, which has been productive of
incalculable benefit to the children of the poorer
classes of the city, by affording them the blessing of
a good common and Christian education, by training
them in habits of industry, enabling them to
earn an honest livelihood, and fitting them for
the duties of life,
All children are excluded who attend regular
day-schools, whose parents have a regular income,
or who receive support or education from the parochial
board; and the Association consists of all subscribers
of 10s. and upwards per annum, or donors
of A5 and upwards; and the general plan upon
which this ragged school and its branch establishment
at Leith Walk, are conducted is as follows,
viz.:-“To give children an adequate allowance of
food for their daily support; to instruct them in
reading, writing, and arithmetic ; to train them in
habits of industry, by instructing and employing
them in such sorts of work as are suited to their
years; to teach them the truths of the Gospel,
making the Holy Scriptures the groundwork of
instruction. On Sabbath the children shall receive
food as on other days, and such religious instruction
as shall be arranged by the acting committee,”
which consists of not less than twelve members.
To this most excellent institution no children
are admissible who are above fourteen or under five
years of age, and they must either be natives of
Edinburgh or resident there at least twelve months
prior to application for admission, though, in special
cases, it may be limited to six. None are admitted
or retained who labour under infectious disease, or
whose mental or bodily constitution renders them
incapable of profiting by the institution. All must ,
attend church on Sunday, and no formula of
doctrine is taught to which their parents may
object ; and children are excused from attendance
at school or worship on Sunday whose parents
object to their attendance, but who undertake that
the children are otherwise religiously instructed in
the tenets of the communion to which they belong,
provided they are in a condition to be entrusted
with the care of their children.
Such were the broad, generous, and liberal views
of Dr. Guthne, and most ably have they been
carried out.
According to the Report for 187g-which may
be taken as fairly typical of the work done in this
eminently useful institution-there was an average
attendance. in the Ramsay Lane Schools of 216
boys and 89 girls. The Industrial Department
comprises carpentry, box-making, shoemaking, and
tailoring, and the net, profits made by the boys
in these branches amounted to &;I& 14s. 5+d.
Besides this the boys do all the washing, help the
cook, make their beds, and wash the rooms they
occupy twice a week. The washing done by boys
was estimated at A130, and the girls, equally
industrious, did work to the value (including the
washing) of A109 7s.
Full of years and honour, Dr. Thomas Guthne
died 24th February, 1873.
Memories of these old houses that have passed
away, yet remain, while on the opposite side of the ... Castle Hill.] THE RAGGED SCHOOL. 87 the said burgh situated under the Castle Hill t+ wards the north, to the ...

Vol. 1  p. 87 (Rel. 0.24)

The water of Leith.] GEORGE RANKINE LUKE 81
memoir of him was prefixed by Dr. Leonhard
Schmitz to his last work, which was published six
years after his death, which occurred in his seventyfourth
year, at No. 21, St. Bernard’s Crescent, on
the 9th of July, 1859.
Academy, everywhere bearing off more prizes than
any of his contemporaries. Leaving the last in
1853, he w’ent to the University of Glasgow, and
at the close of the first session, when in his. seventeenth
year, he carried off the two gold medals
ST. STEPHEN’S CHURCH.
Our list of Stockbridge notabilities would be
incomplete were we to omit the name of one
whose fame, had he been spared, might have
been very glorious : young George Rankine Luke,
a Snell Exhibitioner at Baliol College, and one of
the most brilliant students at Oxford. Born in
Brunswick Street, in March, 1836, the son of Mr.
Tames Luke, a master baker, he passed speedily
through the ranks of the Hamilton Place Academy,
the Circus Place School, and the Edinburgh
107
for the senior Latin and Greek, three prizes for
Greek and Latin composition, the prize for the
Latin Blackstone, and the Muirhead prize. The
close of the second year saw him win the medal
for the Greek Blackstone, the highest classical
honour the University offers, Professor Lushington’s
final Greek prize, another for Logic, and for
Composition four others.
In 1855, as a Snell Exhibitioner at Oxford, he
, rapidly gained the Gaisford prizes for Greek prose ... water of Leith.] GEORGE RANKINE LUKE 81 memoir of him was prefixed by Dr. Leonhard Schmitz to his last work, ...

Vol. 5  p. 81 (Rel. 0.24)

20 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Canangate.
~ ~~ ~ ~~ ~~~ ~
house of the burgh. It was established by subscription,
and opened for the reception of the poor in
1761, the expense being defrayed by collections at
the church doors and voluntary contributions,
without any assessment whatever ; and in those days
the managers were chosen annually from the public
~ ~~ ~ ~~ ~ ~
at the foot of Monroe’s Close, and bore, till within
the last few years, the appearance of those partly
quadrangular manor-houses so common in Scotland
during the seventeenth century. It became
greatly altered after being brought into juxtaposition
with the prosaic details of the Panmure Iron
TOLBOOTH WND.
societies of the Canongate. The city plan of 1647
shows but seven houses within the gate, on the
west side of the Wynd, and open gardens on the
other, eastward nearly to the Water Gate.
Panmure Close, the third alley to the eastwxd-
I one with a good entrance, and generally more
I pleasant than most of those narrow old streets-is
so named from its having been the access to Panmure
House, an ancient mansion, which still remains ;
I
Foundry, but it formed the town residence of the
Earls of Panmure, the fourth of whom, James, who
distinguished himself as a volunteer at the siege of
Luxemburg, and was Privy Councillor to James
VII., a bitter opponent of the Union, lost his title
and estates aRer the battle of Sheriffmuir, and died,
an exile, in Paris. His nephew, William Maule,
who served in the Scots Guards at Dettingen and
Fontenoy, obtained an Irish peerage in 1743 as Earl ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Canangate. ~ ~~ ~ ~~ ~~~ ~ house of the burgh. It was established by ...

Vol. 3  p. 20 (Rel. 0.24)

20 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Canangate.
~ ~~ ~ ~~ ~~~ ~
house of the burgh. It was established by subscription,
and opened for the reception of the poor in
1761, the expense being defrayed by collections at
the church doors and voluntary contributions,
without any assessment whatever ; and in those days
the managers were chosen annually from the public
~ ~~ ~ ~~ ~ ~
at the foot of Monroe’s Close, and bore, till within
the last few years, the appearance of those partly
quadrangular manor-houses so common in Scotland
during the seventeenth century. It became
greatly altered after being brought into juxtaposition
with the prosaic details of the Panmure Iron
TOLBOOTH WND.
societies of the Canongate. The city plan of 1647
shows but seven houses within the gate, on the
west side of the Wynd, and open gardens on the
other, eastward nearly to the Water Gate.
Panmure Close, the third alley to the eastwxd-
I one with a good entrance, and generally more
I pleasant than most of those narrow old streets-is
so named from its having been the access to Panmure
House, an ancient mansion, which still remains ;
I
Foundry, but it formed the town residence of the
Earls of Panmure, the fourth of whom, James, who
distinguished himself as a volunteer at the siege of
Luxemburg, and was Privy Councillor to James
VII., a bitter opponent of the Union, lost his title
and estates aRer the battle of Sheriffmuir, and died,
an exile, in Paris. His nephew, William Maule,
who served in the Scots Guards at Dettingen and
Fontenoy, obtained an Irish peerage in 1743 as Earl ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Canangate. ~ ~~ ~ ~~ ~~~ ~ house of the burgh. It was established by ...

Vol. 3  p. 19 (Rel. 0.24)

THE CANONGATE TOLBOOTH.
OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. -
CHAPTER I.
THE CANONGATE.
Its Origin-Songs concerning it-Records-Market Cross-St. Job’s and the Girth Crosses-Early Hktory-The Town of H~bcrgarc-
Canongate Paved-The Governing Body-Fbising the DeviL-Purchase of the Earl of Roxburgh‘s ‘‘ Superiority ”-The Foreign Settlement
-Gorge Heriot the Elder-Huntly’s House-Sir Walter Scott’s Story of a Fire-The Morocco Land-Houses of Oliphant of Nmland,
Ltrd David Hay, and Earl of Angus-Jack’s Land-Shoemakers’ Lands-Marquiz of Huntly’s How-Nisbet of Dirleton’s Mansion-
Golfer’s Land-John and Nicol Patemn-The Porch and Gatehouse of the Abbey-Lucky Spence.
THE Canongate-of old the Court-end of Edinburgh-
takes its name from the Augustine monks
of Holyrood, who were permitted to build it by
the charter of David I. in I I 28, and to rule it as a
burgh of regality. “The canons,” says Chalmers,
.<‘‘ were empowered to settle here a village, and from
them the street of this settlement was called the
Canongate, from the Saxon gaet, a way or street,
40
according to’the practice of the twelfth and thirteenth
centuries in Scotland and England. The
irnmunities which the canons and their villagers enjoyed
from David’s grant, soon raised up a town,
which extended from the Abbey to the Nether
Port of Edinburgh, and the townsmen performed
their usual devotions in the church of the Abbey
till the Reformation,” after which it continued to ... CANONGATE TOLBOOTH. OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. - CHAPTER I. THE CANONGATE. Its Origin-Songs concerning ...

Vol. 3  p. 1 (Rel. 0.24)

and made the ornate edifice we find it now, with
‘oriel windows and clustering turrets. He was
author of “The Wolf of Badenoch,” “The History of
the Morayshire Floods,” a “Journal of the Queen’s
Visit to Scotland in 1842,” &c He was the lineal
.representative of the Lauders of Lauder Tower and
the Bass, and of the Dicks of Braid and Grange,
and died in 1848.
Near the Grange House is the spacious and
ornamental cemetery of the same name, bordered
on the east by a narrow path, once lined by dense
hedge-rows, which led from the Grange House to the
Meadows, and was long known as the Lovers’ Loan.
This celebrated burying-ground contains the ashes of
Drs. Chalmers,Lee,and Guthne; Sir Andrew Agnew
of Lochnaw, Sir Thomas Dick Lauder, Sir Hope
’ Grant of Kilgraston, the well-known Indian general
and cavalry officer ; Hugh Miller, Scotland’s most
eminent geologist ; the second Lord Dunfermline,
and a host of other distinguished Scotsmen.
CHAPTER V.
THE DISTRICT OF NEWINGTON.
The Causewayside-Summerhall-Clerk Street Chapel and other Churches-Literary Institute-Mayfield Loan-Old Houses-Free Church-
The Powbum-Female Blind Asylum-Chapel of St. John the Baptist-Dominican Convent at the Sciennes-Sciennes Hill House-Scott
and Burns meet-New Trades Maiden Hospital-Hospital for Incurables-Prestonfield House-The Hamiltons and Dick-Cunninghams-
Cemetery at Echo Bank-The Lands of Camemn-Craigmillar-Dexription of the Castle-James V., Queen Mary, and Darnley, resident
there-Queen Mary’s Tree-The Prestons and Gilmours-Peffer Mill House.
In the Grange Road is the Chalmers Memorial
Free Church, built in 1866, after designs by
Patrick Wilson at a cost of .&6,000. It is a
cruciform edifice, in the geometric Gothic style.
In Kilgraston goad is the Robertson Memorial
Established Church, built in 187 I, after designs
by Robert Morham, at a cost of more than L6,ooo.
It is also a handsome cruciform edifice in the
Gothic style, with a spire 156 feet high.
In every direction around these spots spread
miles of handsome villas in every style of architecture,
with plate glass oriels, and ornate railings,
surrounded by clustering trees, extensive gardens ,
and lawns, beautiful shrubberies - in summer,
rich with fruit and lovely flowers-the long lines
of road intersected by tramway rails and crowded
by omnibuses.
Such is now the Burghmuir of James 111.-the
Drumsheugh Forest of David I. and of remoter , times.
WHEN the population of Edinburgh,” says Sir
Walter Scott, “appeared first disposed to burst
from the walls within which it had been so long
confined, it seemed natural to suppose that the
tide would have extended to the south side of
Edinbugh, and that the New Town would have
occupied the extensive plain on the south side
of the College.” The natural advantage pointed
out so early by Sir Walter has been eventually embraced,
and the results are the populous suburban
districts we have been describing, covered with
streets and villas, and Newington, which now extends
from the Sciennes and Preston Street nearly
to the hill crowned by the ancient castle of Craigmillar.
In the Valuation Roll for 1814 the district is
described as the “Lands of Newington, part of the
Old and New Burrowmuir.”
The year 1800 saw the whole locality open and
arable fields, save where stood the old houses of - Mayfield at the Mayfield Loan, a few cottages at
Echo Bank, and others at the Powbum. In those
days the London mails proceeded from the town
by the East Cross Causeway; but as time went
on, Newington House was erected, then a villa
or two : among the latter, one still extant neqr the
corner of West Preston Street, was the residence
of William Blackwood the publisher, and founder
of the firm and magazine.
In the Causewayside, which leads direct from
the Sciennes to the Powburn, were many old and
massive mansions (the residences of wealthy citizens),
that stood back from the roadway, within ‘
double gates and avenues of trees. Some of these
edifices yet remain, but they are of no note, and are
now the abodes of the poor.
Broadstairs House, in the Causewayside, a
massive, picturesque building, demolished to make
room for Mr. T. C. Jack’s printing and publishing
establishment, was built by the doctor of James IV.
or V., and remained in possession of the family till
the end of last century- One half of the edifice
was known as Broadstairs House, and the other
half as Wormwood Hall. Mr. Jack bought the ... made the ornate edifice we find it now, with ‘oriel windows and clustering turrets. He was author of “The ...

Vol. 5  p. 50 (Rel. 0.24)

Gnonpnte.] JVHN PATERSON. I1
The latter is an anagram on the name of “John
Paterson,” while the quatrain was the production
of Dr. Pitcairn, and is referred to in the first
volume of Gilbert Stuart’s Edinburgh Magazine
andRevim for 1774, and may be rendered thus:
--“In the year when Paterson won the prize in
golfing, a game peculiar to the Scots (in which his
ancestors had nine times won the same honour), he
then raised this mansion, a victory more honourable
than all the rest.”
According to tradition, two English nobles at
Holyrood had a discussion with the royal duke
as to the native country of golf, which he was
frequently in the habit of playing on the Links of
Leith with the Duke of Lauderdale and others,
and which the two strangers insisted to be an
English game as well, No evidence of this being
forthcoming, while many Scottish Parliamentary
edicts, some as old as the days of James II., in
1457, could be quoted concerning the said game,
the Englishmen, who both vaunted their expertness,
offered to test the legitimacy of their pretensions
on the result of a match to be played by them
against His Royal Highness and any other .Scotsman
he chose to select. After careful inquiry he
chose a man named John Paterson, a poor shoemaker
in the Canongate, but the worthy descendant
of a long line of illustrious golfers, and the association
will by no means surprise, even in the present
age, those who practise the game in the true old
Scottish spirit The strangers were ignominiously
beaten, and the heir to the throne had the best of
this practical argument, while Paterson’s merits
were rewarded by the stake played for, and he
built the house now standing in the Canongate.
On its summit he placed the Paterson arms-three
pelicans vuZned; on a chief three mullets ; crest,
a dexter-hand grasping a golf club, with the wellold
and well-known tradition, Chambers says, “it
must be admitted there is some uncertainty. The
house, the arms, and the inscriptions only indicate
that Paterson built the house after being victor at
golf, and that Pitcairn had a hand in decorating it.’’
In this doubt Wilson goes further, and believes
that the Golfers’ Land was Zmt, not won, by the
gambling propensities of its owner. It was acquired
by Nicol Paterson in 1609, a maltman in Leith,
and from him it passed, in 1632, to his son John
(and Agnes Lyel, his spouse), who died 23rd April,
1663, as appears by the epitaph upon his tomb in
the churchyard of Holyrood, which was extant in
Maitland’s time, and the strange epitaph on which
is given at length by Monteith. He would appear
to have been many times Bailie of the Canongate.
known mOttO-FAR AND SURE. Concerning this
Both Nicol and John, it may be inferred from the
inscriptions on the ancient edifice, were able and
successful golfers. The style of the bNilding, says
Wilson, confirms the idea that it had been rebuilt
by him “with the spoils, as we are bound to
presume, which he won on Leith Links, from ‘OUT
auld enemies of England.’ The title-deeds, however,
render it probable that other stakes had been
played for with less success. In 1691 he grants
a bond over the property for A400 Scots. This is
followed by letters of caption and hornhg, and
other direful symptoms of legal assault, which
pursue the poor golfer to his grave, and remain
behind as his sole legacy to his heirs.”
The whole tradition, however, is too serious to
be entirely overlooked, but may be taken by the
reader €or what it seems worth.
Bailie Paterson’s successor in the old mansion
was John, second Lord Bellenden of Broughton
and Auchnoule, Heritable Vsher of the Exchequer,
who married Mary, Countess Dowager of Dalhousie,
and daughter of the Earl of Drogheda. Therein
he died in 1704, and was buried in the Abbey
Church ; and as the Union speedily followed, like
other tenements so long occupied by the old
courtiers in this quarter, the Golfers’ Land became,
as we find it now, the abode of plebeians.
Immediately adjoining the Abbey Court-house
was an old, dilapidated, and gable-ended mansion
of no great height, but of considerable extent,
which was long indicated by oral tradition as the
abode of David Rizzio. It has now given place
to buildings connected with the Free Church of
Scotland. Opposite these still remain some of
the older tenements of this once patrician burgh,
distinguishable by their lofty windows filled in with
small square panes of glass ; and on the south side
of the street, at its very eastern end, a series of
pointed arches along the walls of the Sanctuary
Court-house, alone remain to indicate the venerable
Gothic porch and gate-house of the once famous,
Abbey of Holyrood, beneath which all that was
great and good, and much that was ignoble and
bad have passed and repassed in the days that are
no more.
. This edifice, of which views from the east and
west are still preserved, is supposed to have been
the work of “the good-Abbot Ballantyne,” who
rebuilt the north side of the church in 1490, and
to whom we shall have occasion to refer elsewhere.
His own mansion, or lodging, stood here on the
north side of the street, and the remains of it,
together With the porch, were recklessly destroyed
and removed by the Hereditary Keeper of the
Palace in 1753. ... JVHN PATERSON. I1 The latter is an anagram on the name of “John Paterson,” while the quatrain was the ...

Vol. 3  p. 11 (Rel. 0.24)

discharged by the hand of the Major-General commanding.
From the “ Archieologia Scotica ” we cull the
following curious anecdote :-Soon after the death
of Cromwell, the English Council, in 1660, suspecting
General Monk’s fidelity, sent an order
to remove him from the head of their forces in
Scotland. Their ordinary special messenger, who
received it, concealed its nature, and at once began
his march southward, with the army of Scotland, to
accomplish the Restoration.
When the Puritan gunners in the Castle were
ordered to fire a salute in honour of that event, an
old “saint” of Oliver‘s first campaigns bluntly refused
obedience, saying, “May the devil blaw me
into the air gif I lowse a cannon this day ! If I do,
that the principal
servant of the former met, near the Canongate-
head, his old friend the messenger, whom
he accosted with cordiality. “ How comes it,”
he asked, “that you go in this direction, and
not, as usual, to the General at Dalkeith?”
“Because my despatches are for the Castle.”
With ready wit the servant of Monk suspected that
something was wrong, and proposed they should
have a bottle together. The messenger partook
freely ; the servant purloined the despatch; Monk
Tower on the accusation of “complying with
Cromwell in the death of Charles I.”
Thus he found himself a captive in the dungeons
under the same hall in which he had feasted the
Protector, and where he could hear the salutes
fired as the remains of his rival Montrose were
laid in the church of St. Giles. He was brought
to trial in the Parliament House, where Middleton,
with fierce exultation, laid before the peers certain
letters written by the Marquis to Cromwell, all
expressive of attachment to him personally and ... by the hand of the Major-General commanding. From the “ Archieologia Scotica ” we cull the following ...

Vol. 1  p. 56 (Rel. 0.24)

writing of the siege, he says, “ upon the twentieth
day, the principal block-house of Leith, called St.
Anthony’s Kirk, was battered down.” And we
have already referred to the Act of Council in 1560,
by which it was ordered that this block house and
the curtain-wall facing Edinburgh should be levelled
to the sound.
. Immediately opposite St;. Mary‘s Church stands
the Trinity House of Leith, erected on the site of
the original edifice bearing that name,
This Seaman’s Hospital was dedicated to the
Holy Trinity, and the insctiption which adorned
the ancient building is now built into the south
wall of the new one, facing St. Giles’s Street, and
.
ters :-
“IN THE NAME OF THE
LORD,
YE MASTERIS AND MARINERIS
BYLIS THIS HOVS
TO YE POVR.
ANNO DOMINI, ~555.”
In the east wing of the
present edifice there is preserved
a stone, on which is
carved a cross-staff and
other nautical instruments
of the sixteenth century,
an anchor, and two globes,
with the motto :-
apply those dues in the maintenance of a hospital
for the keeping of “poor, old, infirm, and weak
matiners.”
Long previous to 1797, the association, though
calling itself ‘‘ The Corporation of .Shipmasters of
the Trinity House of Leith,” was’. A corporation
only by the courtesy of popular language, and posseised
merely the powers of a charitable body ; but
in that year it was erected by charter into a
corporate body, whose office-bearers were to be a
master, assistant and deputy-=aster, a manager,
treasurer, and clerk, and was vested with powersreserving,
however, those of the Corporation of the
city of Edinburgh-to examine, and under its
“ Zmtituted 1380. Buiit rj55. RebuiZt 1816.”
“The date of this foundation,” says Daniel
Wilson is curious, Its dedication implies that it
originated with the adherents of the ancient faith,
while the date of the old inscription indicates the
very period when the Queen Regent assumed the
reins of government. That same year John Knox
landed at Leith on his return from exile ; and only
three years later, the last convocation of the Roman
Catholic clergy that ever assembled in Scotland
hnder the sanction of its laws was held in the
Blackfriars Church at Edinburgh, and signalised
its final session by proscribing Sir David Lindsay’s
writings, and enacting that his buik should be
abolished and burnt.’ ”
From time immemorial the shipmasters and
mariners of Leith received from all vessels of the
port, and all Scottish vessels visiting it, certain
duties, called “ prirno gilt,” which were expended in
aiding poor seamen ; and about the middle of the
sixteenth century they acquired a legal right to
tained, but they were then ( I 7 7 9) all out-pensioners.
In the inventory of deeds belonging to this
institution is enumerated :-“ Ane charter granted
by Mathew Forrester, in favour of the foresaide
mariners of Leith, of thesaid land of ye hospital
bankes, and for undercallit ye grounds lying in Leith. . . also saide yeird. . . dated 26 July, 1567,
sealit and subscnbit be the saide Mat. Forrester,
Prebender of St. Antoine, near Leith.” (‘< M o n s
ticon Scotz.”)
During the Protectorate the ample vaults under
the old Trinity House (now or latterly used as wine
stores) were filled with the munition of Monk’s
troops, for which they paid a rent.
“ By his Highness’ council1 in Scotland, for the
governing theirof: these are to require z,ooo
forthwith out of such moneys dew or schal come
to the hands of the Customes, out of the third part
of the profits arysing from the Excyse in Scotland,
to pay \Villiam Robertson (collector for the poore
of Trinitie House in Leyth) the sornme of A3 15s. ... of the siege, he says, “ upon the twentieth day, the principal block-house of Leith, called St. Anthony’s ...

Vol. 6  p. 222 (Rel. 0.24)

writing of the siege, he says, “ upon the twentieth
day, the principal block-house of Leith, called St.
Anthony’s Kirk, was battered down.” And we
have already referred to the Act of Council in 1560,
by which it was ordered that this block house and
the curtain-wall facing Edinburgh should be levelled
to the sound.
. Immediately opposite St;. Mary‘s Church stands
the Trinity House of Leith, erected on the site of
the original edifice bearing that name,
This Seaman’s Hospital was dedicated to the
Holy Trinity, and the insctiption which adorned
the ancient building is now built into the south
wall of the new one, facing St. Giles’s Street, and
.
ters :-
“IN THE NAME OF THE
LORD,
YE MASTERIS AND MARINERIS
BYLIS THIS HOVS
TO YE POVR.
ANNO DOMINI, ~555.”
In the east wing of the
present edifice there is preserved
a stone, on which is
carved a cross-staff and
other nautical instruments
of the sixteenth century,
an anchor, and two globes,
with the motto :-
apply those dues in the maintenance of a hospital
for the keeping of “poor, old, infirm, and weak
matiners.”
Long previous to 1797, the association, though
calling itself ‘‘ The Corporation of .Shipmasters of
the Trinity House of Leith,” was’. A corporation
only by the courtesy of popular language, and posseised
merely the powers of a charitable body ; but
in that year it was erected by charter into a
corporate body, whose office-bearers were to be a
master, assistant and deputy-=aster, a manager,
treasurer, and clerk, and was vested with powersreserving,
however, those of the Corporation of the
city of Edinburgh-to examine, and under its
“ Zmtituted 1380. Buiit rj55. RebuiZt 1816.”
“The date of this foundation,” says Daniel
Wilson is curious, Its dedication implies that it
originated with the adherents of the ancient faith,
while the date of the old inscription indicates the
very period when the Queen Regent assumed the
reins of government. That same year John Knox
landed at Leith on his return from exile ; and only
three years later, the last convocation of the Roman
Catholic clergy that ever assembled in Scotland
hnder the sanction of its laws was held in the
Blackfriars Church at Edinburgh, and signalised
its final session by proscribing Sir David Lindsay’s
writings, and enacting that his buik should be
abolished and burnt.’ ”
From time immemorial the shipmasters and
mariners of Leith received from all vessels of the
port, and all Scottish vessels visiting it, certain
duties, called “ prirno gilt,” which were expended in
aiding poor seamen ; and about the middle of the
sixteenth century they acquired a legal right to
tained, but they were then ( I 7 7 9) all out-pensioners.
In the inventory of deeds belonging to this
institution is enumerated :-“ Ane charter granted
by Mathew Forrester, in favour of the foresaide
mariners of Leith, of thesaid land of ye hospital
bankes, and for undercallit ye grounds lying in Leith. . . also saide yeird. . . dated 26 July, 1567,
sealit and subscnbit be the saide Mat. Forrester,
Prebender of St. Antoine, near Leith.” (‘< M o n s
ticon Scotz.”)
During the Protectorate the ample vaults under
the old Trinity House (now or latterly used as wine
stores) were filled with the munition of Monk’s
troops, for which they paid a rent.
“ By his Highness’ council1 in Scotland, for the
governing theirof: these are to require z,ooo
forthwith out of such moneys dew or schal come
to the hands of the Customes, out of the third part
of the profits arysing from the Excyse in Scotland,
to pay \Villiam Robertson (collector for the poore
of Trinitie House in Leyth) the sornme of A3 15s. ... of the siege, he says, “ upon the twentieth day, the principal block-house of Leith, called St. Anthony’s ...

Vol. 6  p. 223 (Rel. 0.24)

iv .OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH.
CHAPTER VIII.
HOLYROOD ABBEY (mnrZu&d).
PAGE
Charter of W X i I.-Trial of the Scottish TemplarsPrendergast’s Reveng-ters by ROM 11. and 111.-The Lord of the Isles
--Coronation of Jams IL-Muliaper of Jam- 11. and III.-Church, &c, burned by the English-Plundered by them-Its
Restoration by Jam- VII.-The Koyal Vault-Dexription of the Chapel Royal-Plundered at the Revolution-Ruined in r+The
West Front-The Belhaven Monument--The Churchyard-Extent of Present Ruin-The Sanctuary-The Abbey Bells . . . . 50
CHAPTER ,IX.
HOLYROOD PALACE.
First Notice of its History-Marriage of James 1V.-The Scots of the Days of Flodden-A Bnwl in the Palace-James V.’s Tower-The
Gudeman of Ballengeich-His MarriageDeath of Queen Magdalene-The Council of November, 192-A Standing h y Proposed-
The Muscovite Ambarradon Entermined by the Queen Regent . . - . . . . . , . . . . . . 60
CHAPTER X.
HOLYROOD PALACE (continued). .
Queen Mary‘a Apartments-Her Arrival in Edinburgh-Riot in the Chapel Royal-“The Queen’s Manes”-Interview with Knox-
Mary‘s Marriage with Darnley-The Podtion of G o - T h e Murder of Rizrio-Burial of Darnley-Marriage of Mary and Bothwell-
Mary’s Last Visit to Holyd-Jams VI. and the “ Mad” Earl of BothweU-Baptism of the Queen of Bohemia and Charles I.-
Taylor the Water-poet at Holyrood-Charles I.’s Imprisonment-Palace Burned and Re-built-The Palace before 165eThe F‘resent
Palace-The Quadrangle-The Galluyof the Kings-The Tapestry-The Audiepce-Chamber . . . . . . . . . 66
.
CHAPTER XI.
HOLYROOD PALACE (comZu&dJ.
The King’s Birthday in 166~-Jams Duke of Alhany-The Duchess of Alhany and General Dabell-Funeral of the Duke of Rothes-
A Gladiatorial Exhibition-Depamuc of the Scottish Household Troops-The Hunters’ Company’s Balls-First and Second
Via of the p y a l Family of France-Recent Impropunents-St. h e ’ s Yard removed-The Ornamental Fountain built . . , 74 . . . .
CHAPTER XII.
THE MOUND.
The North Loch used for Sousings and DuckinPThe Boats, Swans, Ducks, and Eels-Accidents in the Loch-Last Appearance of the
Loch-Formation of the Mound--“ Geordie Boyd‘s Mud Brif-The Rotunda-Royal Institution-Board of Manufactures-History of
the Board-The Equivalent Money-Sii J. Shaw Lefenr’s Report-School of Design-Gallery of Sculpture-Royal Society of
Edinburgh-Museum of Antiquities . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80
CHAPTER XIII.
THE MOUND (conduded).
The Art Galleries-The National Gallery-The Various Collections-The Royal Scottish Academy-Early Scottish Artists-The Institntion-
The First Exhibition in Edinburgh-Foundation of the Academy-Presidents : G. Watson, Si Wdliam Allan, Si J. W.
Gordon, Sir Carge Harvey, Si Daniel Macnee-The Spaldmg Fund , . . . . . . . . . . . . . 88
- CHAPTER XIV.
THE HEAD OF THE MOUND.
The Bank of Scotland-Its Charter-%dry of the Royal Bank Notes for L5 and for *-The New Bank of Scotland-Its Present Aspect
-The Projects of Mr. Trotter and Sir Thomas Dick Lauder-The National Security Savings Bank of Edinburgh-The Fm
Church College and Assembly Hall-Their Foundation-Constitution-Library-Museum-B and Theological
Societies-The Dining Hall, &.-The West Princes Street Gardens-The Proposed Canal and Seaport-The East F’rince~ Street . Gardens-Railway Terminus-Waverley Bridge and Market . . . . . , . . . . . . . . . . 93 ... .OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. CHAPTER VIII. HOLYROOD ABBEY (mnrZu&d). PAGE Charter of W X i I.-Trial of the ...

Vol. 4  p. 386 (Rel. 0.24)

98 OLD AKD NEW EDINBURGH. [The Mound
and ten elders, of whom five shall retire ‘by
rotation from year to year, two only of whom may
be re-elected, and reserving the rights competent
to all parties under the laws of the Church ; with
authority to undertake the general administration
of college property and finances, to give advice in
cases of difficulty ; to originate and prosecute before
the Church Court processes asainst any of the
professors for heresy or immorality, and to make
necessary inquiries for that purpose ; to originate
also, and prepare for the decision of the General
Assembly, proposals for the retirement of professors
disabled by age or infirmity, and for fixing the
retiring allowance they are to receive.” The
convener is named by the Assembly, and his committees
meet as often as may be necessary. They
submit to the Assembly an annual report of their
proceedings, with a summary of the attendance
during the session.
The election of professors is vested in the
General Assembly ; but they are inducted into their
respective offices by the Presbytery. There is a
Senatus Acadet?~icus, composed of the Principal and
professors.
The library of this college originated with Dr.
Welsh, who in 1843 brought the subject before the
Assembly. He obtained large and valuable
donations in money and books from friends and
from Scottish publishers in this country and
America. Among the benefactors were the Earl
of Dalhousie, Lords Effingham and Rutherford,
General McDowall of Stranraer, Buchan of Kelloe,
and others. The endowment now’ amounts
to about A139 per annum. The library is extensive
and valuable, numbering about 35,000 volumes. It
is peculiarly rich in patristic theology, ecclesiastical
history, systematic theology, and works belonging
to the epoch of the Reformation.
The museum was begun by Dr. Fletning, but was
mainly indebted to the efforts of the late Mrs.
Macfie of Longhouse, who, at its commencement;
enriched it with a large number of valuable
specimens, and led many of her friends to take an
interest in its development. The geological
department, which is on the same floor with the
class-room, contains a large number of fossils, many
of which are very curious. In the upper museum
is the varied and valuable collection of minerals,
given by the late Dr. Johnston of Durham. In the
same room are numerous specimens of comparative
anatomy, The herbarium is chiefly composed of
British plants.
The endowment fund now amounts to above
&+4,ooo, exclusive of LIO,OOO bequeathed for the
endowment of a chair for natural science.
The whole scheme of scholarships in the Free
Church College originated with Mr. James Hog
of Newliston, who, in 1845, by personal exertions,
raised about A700 for this object, and continued to
do so for eight years subsequently. Legacies and
donations at length accumulated such a fund as to
render subscriptions no longer necessary.
A dining hall, wherein the professors preside by
turn, is attached to the New College, to which all
matriculated students, i.e., those paying the common
fee, or securing as foreigners a free ticket,
are entitled to dine on payment of a moderate
sum.
The common hall of the college is converted
into a reading-room during the session. All
students may become members on the payment of
a trifling fee, and the arrangements are conducted
by a committee of themselves. Since 1867 a large
mnasium has been fitted up for the use of the
students, under the management of eight of their
number, the almost nominal subscription of sixpence
from each being found sufficient to defray
the current expenses.
Westward of the Earthen Mound, the once fetid
morass that formed the bed of the loch, and
which had been styled “a pest-bed for all the
city,” is now a beautiful garden, so formed
under the powers of a special statute in 1816-20,
by which the ground there belonging originally to
the citizens became the private property of a few
proprietors of keys-the improvements being in
the first instance urged by Skene, the friend of
Sir Walter Scott
In his “Journal,” under date of January, 1826, Sir
Walter says :-“ Wrote till twelve a.ni., finishing half
of what I call a good day’s work, ten pages of print,
or rather twelve. Then walked in the Princes
Street pleasure grounds with the Good Samaritan
James Skene, the only one among my numerous
friends who can properly be termed amicus curarum .
mearem, others being too busy or too gay. The.
walks have been conducted on the whole with
much taste, though Skene has undergone much‘
criticism, the usual reward of public exertions,
on account of his plans. It is singular to walk
close beneath the grim old castle and think what
scenes it must have seen, and how many generations
of threescore and ten have risen and passed
away. It is a place to cure one of too much
sensation over eanhly subjects of imitation.”
He refers here to James Skene of Rubislaw, a
cornet of the Light Horse Volunteers, the corps of
which he himself was quartermaster, and to whom
he dedicated the fourth canto of “ Marmion,” and
refers thus :- ... OLD AKD NEW EDINBURGH. [The Mound and ten elders, of whom five shall retire ‘by rotation from year to year, ...

Vol. 3  p. 98 (Rel. 0.24)

Newhaven.] REV. DR. FAIRBAIRN. 303
In 1820 there were landed at the old stone
pier of Newhaven, John Baud and fourteen other
prisoners, ‘f Radicals ” who had been taken after
the skirmish at Bonny Bridge, by the 10th Hussars
and the Stirlingshire yeomanry. They had been
brought by water from the castle of Stirling, and
were conveyed to gaol from Newhaven in six carriages,
escorted by a macer of justiciary, and the
detachment of a Veteran Battalion.
In the following year, and while railways were
still in the womb of the future, the Scots Magazine
announces, that a gentleman who had left
Belfast on a Thursday, “reached Glasgow the
same evening, and embarked on board the Tounit
(steamer) at Newhaven on Friday, and arrived at
Aberdeen that night. Had such an event been
predicted fifty years ago, it would have been as
easy to make people believe that this journey would
have been accomplished by means of a balloon.”
About five hundred yards westward oi the stone
pier, a chain pier was constructed in the year 1821,
by Captain (afterwards Sir Samuel) Brown, of the
Royal Navy, at the cost of A4,ooo. It is five
hundred feet long, four feet wide, has a depth
at low water of from five to six feet, and served
for the use of the steam packets to Stirling,
Queensferry, and other places above and below
Leith; yet, being unable to offer accommodation for
the bulky steam vessels that frequent the harbour
of the latter or that of Granton, it is now chiefly
used by bathers, and is the head-quarters of the
Forth swimming club.
It was opened on the 14th of October, ISzr,
and was afterwards tested by a weight of twentyone
tons placed upon the different points of
suspension. In 1840 it became the property of
the Alloa Steam Packet Company.
In 1838 Newhaven was erected into a quoad
sma parish, by the aathority of the Presbytery .of
Edinburgh, when a handsome church was erected
for the use of the community, from a design by
John Henderson of Edinburgh.
Near it, in Main Street, is the Free Church,
designed in good Gothic style by James A. Hamilton
of Edinburgh, an elegant feature in the locality,
but chiefly remarkable for the ministry of the late
Rev. Dr. Fairbairn, who died in January, 1879-
a man who came of a notable race, as the wellknown
engineers of the same name were his
cousins, as was also Principal Fairbairn of Glasgow.
He was ordained minister at Newhaven in 1838.
The great majority of his congregation were fishermen
and their families, who were always keenly
sensible of the mode in which he prayed for those
who were exposed to the dangers of the deep.
During his long pastorate these prayers were.a
striking feature in his ministrations, and Charles
Reade, while residing in the neighbourhood, frequently
attended Newhaven Free Church, and has,
in his novel of “ Christie Johnstone,” given a lifelike
portrait of his demeanour when administering
consolation, after a case of drowning.
Perhaps the most useful of thii amiable old
pastor’s philanthropic schemes was that of the
reconstruction of the Newhaven fishing fleet. He
perceived early that the boats in use were wholly
unsuited for modem requirements, and some years
before his death he propounded a plan for replacing
them by others having decks, bunks, and
other compartments. As soon as a crew came forward
with a portion of the money required, Dr. Fairbairn
had no difficulty in getting the remainder
advanced. Thirty-three large new boats, each
costing about Lzso, with as much more for fishing
gear, were the result of his kindly labours. They
have all been prosperous, and hundreds of the
inhabitants of Newhaven, when they stood around
his grave, remembered what they owed to the
large-hearted and prudent benevolence of this old
ministei.
In 1864 a local committee was appointed for
the purpose of erecting a breakwater on the west
side of the present pier, so as to form a harbour
for the fishing craft. Plans and specifications
were prepared by Messrs. Stevenson, engineers,
Edinburgh, and the work was estimated at the
probable cost of L;~,OOO ; and while soliciting aid
from the Board of Fisheries, the Board of Trade,
and the ,magistrates of Edinburgh, the fishermen
honourably and promptly volunteered to convey ’
all the stonework necessary in their boats or otherwise
from the quarry at‘ Qleensferry.
The fishermen of Newhaven rarely intermany
With the women of other fisher communities ; and
a woman of any other class, unacquainted with the
cobbling of nets, baiting and preparation of lines,
the occasional use of a tiller or oar, would be useless
as a fisherman’s wife; hence their continued
intermarriages cause no small confusion in the
nomenclature of this remarkable set of people.
The peculiar melodious and beautiful cry of the
Newhaven oyster-woman-the last of the quaint
old Edinburgh street cries-is well known ; and so
also is their costume ; yet, as in time it may become
a thing of the past, we may give a brief description
of it here. “A cap of linen or cotton,’J says a
writer in Chambers’s EdinQurgh Journal, ‘‘ surmounted
by a stout napkin tied below the chin,
composes the investiture of the hood ; the showy
structures wherewith other females are adorned
,
. ... REV. DR. FAIRBAIRN. 303 In 1820 there were landed at the old stone pier of Newhaven, John Baud and ...

Vol. 6  p. 303 (Rel. 0.23)

290 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. me Old High Schaol‘
display the dresses so used should be given to the
poor.”
For many years the history of the school is little
more than a biographical list of the various masters
and teachers. A fifth class was established in I 614 for
the rudiments of Greek during the rectorship of
John Ray (the friend of Zachary Boyd), who after
being Professor of Humanity in the university for
eight years, regarded it promotion to leave it to
take full charge of the High School ; and when he
died, in February, 1630, his office was again conferred
upon a Professor of Humanity, Thomas
Crawford, who figured prominently amid the
pageants with which Charles I. was welcomed to
the city in 1633, and with Hawthornden and others
composed and delivered some of the bombastic
speeches on that occasion.
In his time the number of pupils fluctuated
greatly ; he complained to the Council that though
they had led him to expect “ 400 bairns at the least,”
he had only 180 when he began office. But there
is no authentic record of attendance at that early
period ; and it is curious that the abstract of the
annual enrolment of scholars goes no farther back
than the Session of 1738-9, while a general matriculation
register was not commenced till 1827.
In December, 1640, Crawford returned to the
university, and was succeeded by William Spence,
schoolmaster of Prestonpans ; but to give all the
successive masters of the institution would far
exceed our space. The masters and scholars had
very indifferent accommodation during the invasion
of Cromwell after Dunbar. His troops made a
barrack of the school-house, and while there broke
and burned all the woodwork, leaving it in such a
state of ruin that the pupils had to meet in Lady
Yester’s Church till it was repaired by funds drawn
from the masters of the Trinity Hospital at the foot
of Leith Wynd.
A library for the benefit of the institution was
added to it in 1658, and it now consists of many
thousand volumes. Among the first donors of
books were John Muir the rector, all the
masters, Patrick Scott of Thirlstane, and John
Lord Swinton of that ilk. At present it is sup
ported by the appropriation of one half of the
n’iatriculation fund to its use, and every way it is
a valuable classical, historical, geographical, and
antiquarian collection. The rector and masters,
with the assistance of the janitor, discharge in
rotation the duties of librarian.
Ap old periodical source of income deserves to
be noticed. In 1660, on the 20th January, the
Town Council ordered “ the casualty called the
b(rir-iZve” to be withheld until the 1st of March.
This was a gratuity presented to the masters by
their pupils at Candlemas, and he who gave the
most was named the King. “ Bleis” being the
Scottish word for blaze, the origin of the gratuity
must have been a Candlemas offering for the lights
and candles anciently in use ; moreover, the day
was a holiday, when the boys appeared in their best
apparel accompanied by their parents.
The roll was then called over, and each boy
presented his offering. When the latter was less
than the quarterly fee no notice was taken of it, but
if it amounted to that sum the rector exclaimed
with a loud voice, Vivat; to twice the ordinary
fee, FZoreai bis; for a higher sum, Fioreaf ter; for
a guinea and upwards, Gloriat! The highest
donor was named the fictor, or King.
The Council repeatedly issued injunctions
against the levy of any “&is-syZver, or BentsyZver,”
but apparently in vain. The latter referred
to the money for collecting bent, or rushes, to lay
down on the clay floor to keep the feet warm and
dry; and so latelyas the commencement of the
seventeenth century, during the summer season,
the pupils had leave to go forth with hooks to
cut bent by the margins of Duddingston and
the Burgh lochs, or elsewhere. “Happily,” says
Steven, of a later date, “ all exactions are now unknown
; and at four regular periods in the course of
each session, the teachers receive from their pupils
a fixed fee, which is regarded as a fair remuneration
for their professional labour.”
In those days the pupils attended divine service,
accompanied by their masters, and were frequently
catechised before the congregation. A part of
Lady Yester’s Church, was set apart for their use,
and afterwards the eastern gallery of the Trinity
College church.
In 1680, the Privy Council issued a proclamation
prohibiting all private Latin schools to be opened
within the city or suburbs, and thus the High
School enjoyed an almost undisturbed monopoly ;
and sixteen years after, in the proceedings of the
Town Council, we find the following enactment :-
“Edinbuqh, S@. 11, 1696.-The Council considering
that the High School of this city being
situate in a corner at some distance, many of the
inhabitants, whose children are tender, being unwilling
to expose them to. the cold winter mornings,
and send them to the said school before the hour
of seven, as use is ; therefore, the Council ordain
the masters of the said school in all time coming,
to meet and convene at nine of the clock in the
morning during the winter season, viz., from the
1st of November to the 1st March yearly, and to
teach the scholars till twelve, that which they were ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. me Old High Schaol‘ display the dresses so used should be given to the poor.” For ...

Vol. 4  p. 290 (Rel. 0.23)

296 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. Uuhnsrone Terrace.
selection, without regard to the Government order of
merit. The programme of instruction is prescribed
by the Education Department ; but the Education
Committee of the Scottish Church are not limited
by it, and give religious instruction on the basis of
the Bible and Shorter Catechism, while promoting
the study of Latin and elementary science. The
All students pay annually A2 each, a contribution
to the book fund of the Training College, in
return for which all necessary books are given to
them by the committee ; and this payment must
be made by all, whether the books are taken or
not.
These colleges date from about the year 1840.
PLAN FOR OPENING A COMMUNICATION BETWEEN THE NORTH AND SOUTH SIDES OF THE CITY BY MEANS OF
A BRIDGE, ENTERING THE LAWNMARKET NEARLY OPPOSITE BANK STREET.
(Fmnr an Eirgrawing in the “Scotr’ Magnsinc,” 1817.)
students do not enter un’.il they are eighteen years
of age at least, and thF, principles and practice of
teaching have a prorhent place among the subjects
of instruction.
Bursaries of the average value of LZI per
annum, in addition to free education, are given to
all the male students ; while a considerable number
of the average value of LIZ is given to the female
students, from whom alone a fee for education is
expected.
That in Johnstone Terrace was built to succeed an
older (and less suitably equipped) edifice, which
stood in what used to be called Market Street,
near the Waverley Station, and near the Bank of
Scotland.
Westward of the Training College, on the Castlebank,
and facing the Grassmarket, a barrack for
married soldiers stands, and there any soldier
passing through Edinburgh, on obtaining permission,
may pass the night. ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. Uuhnsrone Terrace. selection, without regard to the Government order of merit. The ...

Vol. 2  p. 296 (Rel. 0.23)

[North Bridge. __ 362 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH.
Magazine (started in Edinburgh), and minister of’ son of Sir Michael Balfour of Denmylne. An emithe
Congregational church in Glasgow. I nent physician and botanist, he was born in 1630,
In 1828, on the 8th of June-the fiftieth year of graduated in medicine at St. Andrews, prosecuted
his ministry being complete-a hundred gentlemen, his medical studies under the famous Harvey in
’ connected with Lady Glenorchy’s chapel, enter- I London, after which he visited Blois, to see the
t:tined Dr. Jones at a banquet given in his honour , celebrated botanical garden of the Duke de ~~ at the Waterloo Tavern, and presented him “with
an elegant silver vase, as a tribute of the respect
and esteem which the people entertained for the
..uniform uprightness of his conduct during the long
period they had enjoyed his ministry.”
Lady Glenorchy’s chapel and school were alike
demolished in 1845, as stated. The former, as a
foundation, is now in Roxburgh Place, as a chapel
in connection with the Establishment. “ It has now
a quoad sacm district attached to it,” says FuZZarton’s
Gazetteer; ‘‘ the charge h 1835 was collegiate.
<There is attached to the chapel a school attended
by IOO or 120 poor children.”
In the same quiet and secluded hollow, overlooked
by the Trinity Church and Hospital, the
Orphan Hospital, and the Glenorchy Chapel-in
the very bed of. what was once the old loch, and
where now prevail all the bustle and uproar of
one of the most confused of railway termini, and
where, ever and anon, the locomotive sends up its
shriek to waken the echoes of the Calton rocks 01
the enormous masses of the Post-office buildings,
and those which flank the vast Roman-like span of
the Regent Bridge-lay the old Physic Gardens,
for the creation of which Edinburgh was indebted
to one or two of her eminent physicians in the
seventeenth century.
They extended between the New Port at the
foot of Halkerston’s Wynd, i.e., from the east side 01
the north bridge to the garden of the Trinity
College Hospital, which Lord Cockburn describes
as being ‘‘ about a hundred feet square ; but it is
only turf surrounded by a gravel walk. An old
thorn, and an old elm, destined never to be in leaf
again, tell of old springs and old care. And there
is a wooden summer house, which has heard many
ipi old man’s crack, and seen the sun soften many
an old man’s wrinkles.”
In Gordon of Rothiemay’s view this particular
garden (now among the things that were) is shown
as extending from the foot of Halkerston‘s Wyiid
to the west gable of the Trinity Hospital, and
northward in a line with the tower of the church.
From the New Port, the Physic Garden, occupying
much of that we have described, lay north
cross the valley, to where a path between hedgerows
led to the Orphan Hospital. It is thus shown
in Edgar’s plan, in 1765. .
1 It owed its origin to Sir Andrew Balfour, the
Guise, then kept by his countryman Dr. Robert
Morison, author of the ‘‘ Hortus Regius Bloisensis,”
and afterwards, in 1669, professor of botany at
Oxford.
In 1667 Balfour commenced to practise as a
physician in St. Andrews, but in 1670 he removed
to Edinburgh, where among other improvements he
introduced the manufacture of paper into Scotland.
Having a small botanical garden attached to his
house, and chiefly furnished with rare seeds sent by
his foreign correspondents, he raised there many
plants never before seen in Scotland. His friend
and botanical pupil, Mr. Patrick Murray of Livingstone,
had formed at his seat a botanic garden containing
fully a thousand specimens of plants ; and
after his death Dr. Balfour transferred the whole
of this collection to Edinburgh, and, joining it to
his own, laid the foundation of the first botanic
garden in Scotland, for which the magistrates allotted
him a part of the Trinity garden, and then,
through the patronage of Sir Robert Sibbald, the
eminent physician and naturalist, Mr. James Sutherland,
an experienced botanist, was appointed headgardener.
After this Balfour was created a baronet by
Charles 11. He was the first who introduced the
dissection of the hunian body into Scotland; he
planned the present Royal College of Physicians,
projected the great hospital now known as the
Royal Infirmary; and died full of honours in 1694,
bequeathing his museum to the university.
It was in September, 1676, that he placed the
superintending of the Physic Garden under James
Sutherland, who was by profession a gardener, but
of whose previous history little is known. “ By his
ownindustry,” says Sir Robert SibbaId, “heobtained
to great knowledge of plants,” and seems to have
been one of those self-made men of whom Scotland
has produced so many of whom she may well be
proud. In 1683 he published his “Norizcs Nedicus
Edinburgensis, or a catalogue of the plants in the
Physic Gardens at Edinburgh, containing the
most proper Latin and English names,” dedicated
to the Lord Provost, Sir George Drummond. In
his little garden in the valley of the North Loch
he taught the science of herbs to the students of
medicine for small fees, receiving no other encouragement
than a salary of A20 from the city, which
did not suffice to pay rent and Servants’ wages, to ... Bridge. __ 362 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. Magazine (started in Edinburgh), and minister of’ son of Sir Michael ...

Vol. 2  p. 362 (Rel. 0.23)

Craigcrook.] HISTORY OF CRAIGCROOK. 107
summer residence of Lord Jeffrey-deeply secluded
amid coppice.
The lands of Craigcrook appear to have belonged
in the fourteenth century to the noble family of
Graham. By a deed bearing date 9th April, 1362,
Patrick Graham, Lord of Kinpunt, and David
Graham, Lord of Dundaff, make them over to
John de Alyncrum, burgess of Edinburgh. He
in turn settled them on a chaplain officiating at
“Our Lady’s altar,” in the church of St. Giles,
and his successors to be nominated by the magistrates
of Edinburgh.
John de Alyncrum states his donation of those
lands of Craigcrook, was “ to be for the salvation
of the souls of the late king and queen (Robert
and Elizabeth), of the present King David, and of
all their predecessors and successors ; for the salvation
of the souls of all the burghers of Edinburgh,
their predecessors and successors ; of his own father
and mother, brothers, sisters, etc. ; then of himself
and of his wife; and, finally, of all faithful souls
deceased.”
The rental of Craigcrook in the year 1368 was
only A6 6s. 8d. Scots per annum; and in 1376 it
was let at that rate in feu farm, to Patrick and
John Lepars.
At an early period it became the property of
the Adamsons. William Adamson was bailie of
Edinburgh in 1513, and one of the guardians of
the city after the battle of Flodden, and Williim
Adamson of Craigcrook, burgess of Edinburgh
(and probably son of the preceding), was killed at
the battle of Pinkie, in 1547 ; and by him or his
immediate successors, most probably the present
castle was built-an edifice wbich Wood, in his
learned ‘‘ History of Cramond Parish,” regards
as one of the most ancient in the parish.
In consequence of the approaching Reformation,
the proceeds of the lands were no longer required
for pious purposes, and the latter were made over by
Sir Simon Prestonof Craigmillar, when Provost, to Sir
Edward Marj oribanks, styled Prebend of Craigcrook.
They were next held for a year, by George Kirkaldy,
brother of Sir James Kirkaldy of Grange in
Fifeshire, Lord High Treasurer of Scotland, who
engaged to pay for them A27 6s. 8d. Scots.
In June, 1542, they reverted again to Sir Edward
Majoribanks, who assigned them in perpetual feufarm
to William Adamson before-named. This
wealthy burgess had acquired much property in
the vicinity, including Craigleith, Cammo, Groat
Hall, Clermiston, Southfield, and part of Cramond
Regis. After Pinkie he was succeeded by his son
William, and Craigcrook continued to pass through
several generations of his heirs, till it came into
~~
the hands of Robert Adamson, who, in 1656, sold
to different persons the whole of his property.
Craigcrook was purchased by John Muir, merchant
in Edinburgh, whose son sold it to Sir John
Hall, Lord Provost of the city in 1689-92. He was
created a baronet in 1687, and was ancestor of the
Halls of Dunglass, on the acquisition of which, in
East Lothian, he sold Craigcrook to Walter Pringle,
advocate, from whose son it was purchased by John
Strachan, clerk to the signet.
When the latter died in 1719, he left the whole
of his property, with North Clermiston and the
rest of his fortune, both in land and movables
(save some small sums to his relations) ‘‘ mortified
for charitable purposes,”
The regulations were that the rents should be
given to poor old men and women and orphans ;
that the trustees should be “two advocates, two
Writers to the Signet, and the Presbytery of Edinburgh,
at the sight of the Lords of Session, and any
two of these members,” for whose trouble one
hundred merks yearly is allowed.
There are also allowed to the advocates, poor
fifty merks Scots, and to those of the writers to the
signet one hundred merks ; also twenty pounds
annually for a Bible to one of the members of the
Presbytery, beginning with the moderator and
going through the rest in rotation.
This deed is dated the 24th September, 1712.
The persons constituted trustees by it held a meeting
and passed resolutions respecting several
points which had not been regulated in the will. A
clerk and factor, each with a yearly allowance of
twenty pounds, were appointed to receive the
money, pay it out, and keep the books.
They resolved that no old person should be
admitted under the age of sixty-five, nor any orphan
above the age of twelve; and that no annuity
should exceed five pounds.
Among the names in a charter by William
Forbes, Provost of the Collegiate Church of St.
Giles, granting to that church a part of the ground
lying contiguous to his manse for a burial-place,
dated at Edinburgh, 14th January, 1477-8, there
appears that of Ricardus Robed, jrebena‘anks de
Cragmk mansepropie (“ Burgh Charters.”)
Over the outer gate of the courtyard a shield
bore what was supposed to have been the arms of
the Adamsons, and the date 1626 ; but Craigcrook
has evidently been erected a century before that
period. At that time its occupant was Walter
Adamson, who succeeded his father Willian~
Adamson in 1621, and whose sister, Catharine,
married Robert Melville of Raith, according to
the Douglas Peerage. ... HISTORY OF CRAIGCROOK. 107 summer residence of Lord Jeffrey-deeply secluded amid coppice. The lands ...

Vol. 5  p. 107 (Rel. 0.23)

Bell’s Mills.] LADY SINCLAIR. 63
portray. She was born Margaret Learmouth, at
~ 6 , St John Street, in the Canongate, in January)
1794, while that street and much of the neighbour.
hood around it were still the centre of the literaq
and fashionable society of the then secluded
capital of Scotland.
Thus she was old enough to have seen and
known many who were “ QUt with the Prince ” b
1745, and reminiscences of these people and 01
their days were ever a favourite theme with hei
when she had a sympathetic listener. “Old
maiden ladies,” she was wont to say, with a sort 01
sad pitifulness in her tone, “were the last lea1
Jacobites in Edinburgh ; spinsterhood in its loneli.
ness remained then ever true to Prince Charlit
and the vanished dreams of youth.” Lady Sinclaii
used to relate how in the old Episcopal Chapel in
the Cowgate, now St. Patrick‘s Church, the last
solitary representative of these Jacobite ladies nevei
failed to close her prayer-book and stand erect, in
d e n t protest, when the prayer for King George 111.
‘( and the reigning family ” was read in the Church
Service. Early in her girlhood her family removed
from St. John Street to Picardy Place, and the
following adventure, which she used to relate,
curiously evinces the difference between the social
customs of the early years of this century and those
of the present day.
“ Once, when she was returning from a ball, the
bearers of her sedan-chair had their bonnets carried
off by the wind, while the street oil-lamps were
blown out, and the ‘ Donalds ’ departed in pursuit
of their head-gear. It was customary in those
times for gentlemen to escort the sedan-chairs
that held their fair partners of the evening, and
the two gentlemen who were with her-the Duke
af Argyle and Sir John Clerk of Penicuickseized
hold of the spokes and carried her home.
‘Gentlemen were gentlemen in those days,’ she was
wont to add, ‘and Edinburgh was the proper
residence of the Scottish aristocracy-not an inn
.or a half-way house between London and the
Highland muirs.’ ”
In 1821 she was married to Mr. Sinclair, afterwards
Sir John Sinclair, Bart., of Dunbeath, and
for fifty years afterwards her home was at the
House of Barock, in Caithness, where her influence
among the poor was ever felt and gratefully
acknowledged. She was a staunch and
amusingly active Liberal, and, with faculties clear
and unimpaired in the last week of her long life,
noted and commented on Mr. Gladstone’s famous
“ hlidlothian speeches,” and rejoiced over his
success. She was always scrupulously dressed,
and in the drawing-room down to the day of
her death. She saw all her children die before
her, in early or middle life; her eldest, Colonel
Sinclair, dying in India in his forty-fifth year. After
Sir John’s death she settled in Edinburgh.
“I am the last leaf on the outmost bough,”
she was wont to say, “and want to fall where I
was born.” And so she passed away.
When she was interred within the Chapel Royal
at Holyrood, it was supposed that she would be one
of the last to whom that privilege would be accorded.
It was not so ; for the remains of James,
Earl of Caithness, who died in America, were laid
there in April, 1881.
The Dean, or Den, seems to have been the old
general name for the rocky hollow now spanned
by the stately bridge of Telford.
Bell’s Mills, a hamlet deep down in a grassy
glen, with an old bridge, aver which for ages lay
the only road to the Queensferry, and now overshadowed
by fashionable terraces and crescents, is
described by Kincaid in 1787 as a village, “one and
three-quarter niiles north-west of Edinburgh, on the
north bank of the Water of Leith, and .a quarter
of a mile west of West Leith village.” * It received
its name from an old proprietor of the
flour-mills, which are still grinding there, and have
been long in existence. ‘‘ On Thursday night
last,” says the Zdinburgh Advertseer of 3rd January:
1764, “ the high wall at Bells Brae, near the
Water of Leith Bridge, fell down, by which accident
the footpath and part of the turnpike road are
carried away, which makes it hazardous for carriages.
This notice may be of use to those who have
occasion to pass that road.”
At the head of the road here, near the Dean
Bridge, is a Free Church, built soon after the
Disruption-a little edifice in the Saxon style, with
a square tower ; and a quaint little ancient crowstepped
building, once a toll-house, has built into
it some of the old sculpture from the Dean House.
At the foot of the road, adjoining Bell’s Mills
Bridge, are old Sunbury distillery and house, in a
lelta formed by the Leith, which sweeps under a
steep and well-wooded bank which is the boundary
3f the Dean Cemetery.
The Water of Leith village, which bears marks of
peat antiquity, is fast disappearing amid the enxoachments
of modern streets, and yet all that renains
of it, deep down in the rocky hollow, where
:he stream, flowing under its quaint old bridge,
3etween ancient mills, pours in a foaming sheet
wer a high, broad weir, is wonderfully striking
ind picturesque. Dates, inscriptions, crowstepped
:ables, and other features of the seventeenth
:entury, abound here in profusion.
. ... Mills.] LADY SINCLAIR. 63 portray. She was born Margaret Learmouth, at ~ 6 , St John Street, in the ...

Vol. 5  p. 63 (Rel. 0.23)

maters past there, and how to betray his mistres;
for they could not chuse a more fitte man than
him to do such an act, who, from his very youth
had been renouned for his treacherie, and of whom
his oune father had no good opinion in his very
infance; for, at a certain time, his coming foorth
with him in a garden where his father was, with
some one that had come to visit him, busy in
talk, the nurse setting down the childe on thegreen
grass, and not much mindinge him, th boy seeth a
foude, which he snatched up and had eaten it all till
a little of the legges, which when shee saw, shee
cried out, thinking he should have been poisoned,
and shee taking the legges of the toade that he
had left as yet oneaten, he cried out so loud and
shrill, that his father and the other gentleman
heard the outcries, who went to see what should
burgh,attainted and foundguiltie I‘oNE* THE ARMoRTA‘, account of the conflagration in
the Scots --Magazine for that
William Douglas of Whitting- . . families have lost their all. An
of heigh treason for the murder
of the king his maister.”
OF CARDINAL BEATOX, FROM HIS HOUSE,
BLACKFRIARS WYND.
(From the Scoffiflr Anfiquarinn Museum.) year, which ‘adds, “ many poor
‘ opponent of Bishop William Abernethy Drummond
of the Scottish Episcopal Church, one of the few
clergymen who paid his respects to Charles
Edward when he kept his court at Holyrood.
By his energy Dr. Hay constructed a chapel in
ChalmeIIs Close, which was destroyed in 1779,
when an attempt to repeal the penal statutes
against Catholics roused a “NO Popery” cry in
Edinburgh. On the and of February a mob,
including 500 sailors from Leith, burned this
chapel and plundered another, while the bishop
was living in the Blackfriars Wynd, and the house
of every Catholic in Edinburgh was sacked and
destroyed.
Principal Robertson, who was supposed to be
friendly :o Catholics, and defended themin the ensuing
General Assembly, had his house attacked, his
hame, grandson- of Archibald who made a disposition
of the house in Blackfriars Wynd, was a contemporary
of Morton’s, and was closely associated
with him in the murder of Darnley. His name
appears as one of the judges, in the act (‘ touching
the proceedings of the Gordons and Forbesses,”
and he resigned his seat as senator in 1590.
Lower down, on the east side of the wynd, was
a most picturesque building, part of which was
long used as a Catholic chapel. It was dated
1619, and had carved above its door the motto of
the city, together with the words, In te Domint
Speravi-f‘ax intrantibus-SaZvus exeunti3us-
Blissit be God in aZZ his gzyfis.
On the fifth floor of this tenement was a large
room, which during the greater part of the
eighteenth century was used as a place of worship
by the Scottish Catholics, and, until its demolition
lately, there still remained painted on the door the
name of the old bishop-Mr. Nay-for, in those
days he dared designate himself nothing more.
He was ce1,brated in theological literature as the
old respectable citizen, above. 80, was carried out
during the fire.
Nearly opposite to it was another large tenement,‘
the upper storey of which was also long
used as a Catholic chapel, rand as such was
dedicated to St. Andrew the Apostle of Scotland,
until it was quitted, in 1813, for a more complete
and ornate church, St. Mary’s in Broughton Street.
After it was abandoned, “ the interior of the chapel
retained much of its original state till its demolition.
The framework of the simple altar-piece still
remained, though the rude painting of the patron
saint of Scotland which originally filled it had
disappeared. Humble as must have been the
appearance of this chapel-even when furnished
with every adjunct of Catholic ceremonial for
Christmas or Easter festivals, aided by the imposing
habits of the officiating priests that gathered
round its little altar-yet men of high rank and
ancient lineage were wont to assemble among the
worshippers.”
With oihers, here caine coiistantly tc mass a d
Happily. no lives were lost.” ... past there, and how to betray his mistres; for they could not chuse a more fitte man than him to do such ...

Vol. 2  p. 261 (Rel. 0.23)

Rothesay might be baptised in Protestant form,
The queen only replied by placing the child in
his arms. Then the aged minister knelt down, and
prayed long and fervently for his happiness and
prosperity, an event which so touched the tender
Mary that she burst into tears; however, the
prince was baptised according to the Roman ritual
at Stirling on the 5th of December.
The birth of a son produced little change in
Damley’s licentious life. He perished as history
records ; and on Bothwell’s flight after Carberry,
and Mary‘s captivity in Lochleven, the Regent
Moray resolved by force or fraud to get all the
fortresses into his possession. Sir James Balfour,
a minion of Bothwell’s-the keeper of the famous
silver casket containing the pretended letters and
sonnets of Mary-surrendered that of Edinburgh,
bribed by lands and money as he marched out, and
the celebrated Sir William Kirkaldy of Grange was
appointed governor in his place. That night the
fated Regent Moray entered with his friends, and
slept in the same little apartment wherein, a year before,
his sister had been delivered of the infant now
proclaimed as James VI. ; but instead of keepin& his
promise to Balfour, Moray treacherously made him
a prisoner of state in the Castle of St. Andrews.
CHAPTER VI.
EDIXBURGH C A S T L E - ( C O ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ) .
The Siege of 157yThe City Bombarded from the Castle-Elizabeth’s Spy-Drury’s Dispositions for the Siege-Execution of Kirkaldy
-Repair of the Roins-Execution of Morton-Visit of Charles I.-Procession to Holyrood-Coronation of Charles 1.-The Struggle
against Episcopacy-Siege of 16p-The Spectre Drummer-Besieged by Cromwell-Under the Protector-The Restoration-The Argyles
-The Accession of James VIJ -Sentence of the Earl of Argyl-His clever Escape-Imprisoned four years latu-The Last Sleep oC
Argyle-His Death-Torture of Covenanters-Proclamation of William and Mary-lle Siege of 168g-Interview between Gordoe
and Dundee-The Castle invested-Brilliant Defence-Capitulation of the Duke of Gordon-The Spectre of Ckverhouse. J
MARY escaped from Lochleven on the and of May,
1568, and after her defeat fled to England, the
last country in Europe, as events showed, wherein
she should have sought refuge or hospitality.
After the assassination of the Regent Moray, to
his successor, the Regent Morton, fell the task of
subduing all who lingered in arms for the exiled
queen ; and so well did he succeed in this, that,
save the eleven acres covered by the Castle rock
of Edinburgh, which was held for three years by
Sir William Kirkaldy of Grange with a garrison
resolute as himself, the whole country was now
under his rule.
Kirkaldy, whose services in France and elsewhere
had won him the high reputation of being
“ the bravest soldier in Europe,” left nothing undone,
amid the unsettled state of affairs, to
strengthen his .post. He raised and trained soldiers
without opposition, seized all the provisions that
were brought into Leith, and garrisoned St. Giles’s
church, into the open spire of which he swung
up cannon to keep the citizens in awe. This was
on the 28th of March, 1571. After the Duke of
Chatelherault, with his Hamiltons-all queen’s men
-marched in on the 1st of May, the gables of
the church were loopholed for arquebuses. Immediate
means were taken to defend the town
against the Regent. Troops crowded into it; others
were niustered for its protection, and this state
of affairs continued for fully three years, during
which Kirkaldy baffled the efforts of four successive
Regents, till Morton was fain to seek aid
from Elizabeth, to wrench from her helpless refugee
the last strength that remained to her ; and most
readily did the English queen agree thereto.
A truce which had been made between ’Morton
and Kirkaldy expired on the 1st of January, 1573,
and as the church bells tolled six in the morning, the
Castle guns, among which were two &?-pounders,
French battardes, and English‘ culverins’ or 18-
pounders (according to the :‘ Memoirs ofKirkaldy”),
opened on the city in the dark. It was then full
of adherents of James VI., so Kirkaldy cared not
where his shot fell, after the warning gun had been
previously discharged, that all loyal subjects of
the queen should retire. As the ‘grey winter dawn
stole in, over spire and pointed roof, the cannonade
was chiefly directed from the eastern curtain
against the new Fisli Market ; the baikets in
which were beaten so high in the air, that for days
after their contents were seen scattered on the tops
of the highest houses. In one place a single shot
killed five persons and wounded twenty others.
Selecting a night when the wind was high and
blowing eastward, Kirkaldy made a sally, and set
on fire all the thatched houses in West Port and
Castle Wynd, cannonading the while the unfortunates
who strove to quench the flames that rolled
away towards the east. In March Kirkaldy resolutely
declined to come to terms with Morton, though
earnestly besought to do so by Henry Killigrew,
who came ostensibly as an English envoy, but in ... might be baptised in Protestant form, The queen only replied by placing the child in his arms. Then the ...

Vol. 1  p. 47 (Rel. 0.23)

The Saennes.] ST. KATHARINE’S CONVENT. 53
“Papingo,” makes Chastity flee for refuge to the
sisters of the Sciennes.
The convent was erected under a Bull of Pope
Lax., and also by a charter of James V. This
Bull informs us that the convent was created
hough the influence of the families of Seton,
Lord Seton, refusing all offers of mamage, became
a nun at the Sciennes, and dying in her seventyeighth
year, was buried there, according to the
history of her house.
The chapel of St. John the Eaptist became
that of the new convent, which, up to the middle
MR. DUNCAN MCLAREN. (Froma Pkofo~roph &y/. G. Tunny.)
Douglas of Glenbervie, and Lauder of the Bass,
the land being given by the venerable Sir John
Crawford. The first prioress was the widowed
Lady Seton ; “ ane nobill and wyse Ladye,” says
Sir Richard hlaitland, “sche gydit hir sonnis
leving quhill he was cumit to age, and thereafter
she passit and remainit at the place of Senis, on
the Borrow Mure.” There she died in 1558, and
was buried in the choir of Seton church, beside
her husband, whose body had been brought from
Flodden.
Katharine, second daughter of George, fourth
of the skteenth century, received various augmentations-
among others, a tenement in the Cowgate.
The nuns made annual processions to the altar
of St. Katharine in St. Margaret’s Chapel at Liberton;
and it was remarked, says- the editor of
ArcAauZqia Scutica, that the man who demolished
the latter never prospered after.
In 1541 the magistrates took in feu from the
nuns their arable land, lying outside the Greyfriars’
Port, and, curious to say, it is on a portion of this
that the new Convent of St. Katharine was founded,
about 1860. Within the grounds on the north side ... Saennes.] ST. KATHARINE’S CONVENT. 53 “Papingo,” makes Chastity flee for refuge to the sisters of the ...

Vol. 5  p. 53 (Rel. 0.23)

St. Giles.
elasticity which the nation displayed in its endless ’ naceus,” in the Harleian Collection in the British
wars with England, showing how the general and
local government vied with each other in the
erection of ornate ecclesiastical edifices, the moment
the invaders-few ot whom ever equalled
Edward 111. in wanton ferocity-had re-crossed
the Tweed. Xmong these we may specially
mention the chapel of Robert Duke of Albany,
now the most beautiful and interesting portion of
this sadly defaced and misused old edifice. The
ornamental sculptures of this portion are of a
peculiarly striking character - heraldic devices
forming the most prominent features on the capital
of the great clustered pillar. On the south side
are the arms of Robert Duke of Albany, son of King
Robert II., and on the north are those of Xrchibald
fourth Earl of Douglas, Duke of Tonraine
and Marshal of France, who was slain at the battle
of Verneuil by the English. In 1401 David Duke
of Rothesay, the luckless son of Robert II., was
made a prisoner by his uncle, the designing Duke
of Albany, with the full consent of the aged king
his father, who had grown weary of the daily complaints
that were made against the prince. In the
“Fair Maid of Perth,” Scott has depicted with
thrilling effect the actual death of David, by the
slow process of starvation, notwithstanding the
intervention of a maiden and nurse, who met a
very different fate from that he assigns to them in
the novel, while in his history he expresses a doubt
whether they ever supplied the wants of the prince
in any way. According .to the ‘‘ Black Book“ of
Scone, the Earl of Douglas was with Albany when
the prince was trepanned to Falkland, and having
probably been exasperated against the latter, who
was his own brother-in-law (having married his
sister Marjorie Douglas), for his licentious course
of life, must have joined in the ‘ projected assassination.
“Such are the two Scottish nobles whose
armorial bearings still grace the capital of the pillar
in the old chapel. It is the only other case in
which they are found acting in concert besides the
dark deed already referred to; and it seems no
unreasonable inference to draw from such a coincidence,
that this chapel ,had been founded and
endowed by them as an expiatory offering for that
deed of blood, and its chaplain probably appointed
to say masses for their victim’s soul” (Wilson).
The comparative wealth of the Scottish Church
in those days and for long after was considerable,
and an idea may be formed of it from the amount
of the tenth of the benefices paid by the three
countries as a tax to Rome, and in the Acts of Parliament
of James 111. in 147 r, and of James IV. in
r493. The account is from a “Codex Membra-
.
Museum :-
De terra Scotiz . . . , . . . . . . . . . . . . f;3,947 19 8
,, Hibernia:. . .. .. .. .. .. .. 1,647 16 3
,, Anglia et Wallice .. .. .. 20,872 z 4+
Thus we see that the Scottish Church paid more
than double what was paid by Ireland, and a fifth
of the amount that was paid by England.
The transepts of St. Giles, as they existed before
the so-called repairs of 1829, afforded distinct
evidence of the gradual progtess of the edifice.
Beyond the Preston aisle the roof differed from
the older portion, exhibiting undoubted evidence
of being the work of a subsequent time ; and from
its associations with the eminent men of other
days it is perhaps the most interesting portion of
the whole fabric. Here it was that Walter Chapman,
of Ewirland, a burgess of Edinburgh, famous
as the introducer of the printing-press into Scotland,
and who was nobly patronised by the heroic king
who fell at Flodden, founded and endowed a
chaplaincy at the altar of St. John the Evangelist,
“in honour of God, the Blessed Virgin Mary, St.
John the Apostle and Evangelist, and all the
saints, for the healthful estate and prosperity of
the most excellent lotd the King of Scotland, and
of his most serene consort Margaret Queen of
Scotland, and of their children j and also for the
health of my soul, and of Agnes Cockburne, my
present wife, and of the soul of Mariot Kerkettill,
my former spouse,” &c.
“This charter,” says a historian, “is dated 1st
August, 1513, an era of peculiar interest. Scotland
was then rejoicing in all the prosperity and
happiness consequent on the wise and beneficent
reign of James IV. Learning was visited with the
highest favour of the. Court, and literature was
rapidly extending its influence under the zealous
co-operation of Dunbar, Douglas, Kennedy, and
others, with the royal master-printer. Only one
month thereafter Scotland lay at the mercy of her
southern rival. Her king was slain; the chief of
her nobles and warriors had perished on Flodden
Field, and adversity and ignorance again replaced
the advantages that had followed in the train of
the gallant James’s rule. Thenceforth, the altars
of St. Giles received few and rare additions to
their endowments.”
From the preface to “ Gologras and Gawane,”
we learn that in 1528 Walter Chapnian the printer
founded a chaplaincy at the altar of Jesus Christ,
in St. Giles, and endowed it with a tenement in the
Coagate; and there is good reason for believhig
that the pious old printer lies buried in the south
transept of the church, close by the spot where ... Giles. elasticity which the nation displayed in its endless ’ naceus,” in the Harleian Collection in the ...

Vol. 1  p. 142 (Rel. 0.23)

THE AULD KIRK STYLE. I53 The Luckenbootha.]
turesque and heavily-eaved buildings, stood in the
thoroughfare of the High Street, parallel to St.
Giles's church, from which they were separated
by a close and gloomy lane for foot passengers
alone, and the appellation was shared by the
opposite portion of the main street itself. This
singular obstruction, for such it was, existed from
among whom we may well include the well-known
firm of Messrs. M'Laren and Sons.
It was pierced in the middle by a passage called
the Auld Kirk Style, which led to the old north
door of St. Giles's, and there it was that in 1526
the Lairds of Lochinvar and Drumlanrig slew Sir
Thomas MacLellan of Bombie (ancestor of the
'
CREECH'S LAND. (Frmn an Ewaving ix Air "Fugitive Pircer.")
' the reign of James 111. till 1817, and the name is
supposed to have been conferred on the shops
in that situation as being close buuths, to distinguish
them from the open ones, which then lined the great
street on both sides, Zacken signifying close, thus
implying a certain superiority to the ancient traders
in these booths ; and it was considered remarkable
that amid all the changes of the old town there
is still in this locality an unusual proportion of
mercers, clothiers? and drapers, of very old standing,
a0
Lords Kirkcudbright), with whom they mere at
feud-an act for which neither of them was ever
questioned or punished.
Prior to the year 18 I I there remained unchanged
in the Luckenbooths two lofty houses of great
strength and antiquity, one of which contained
the town residence of Sir John Byres, Bart., of
Coates, an estate now covered by the west end of
new Edinburgh. He was a gentleman who made
a great figure in the city during the reign of ... AULD KIRK STYLE. I53 The Luckenbootha.] turesque and heavily-eaved buildings, stood in the thoroughfare of ...

Vol. 1  p. 153 (Rel. 0.23)

30 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [ Burghmuir.
hollows are still discernible, and in them thc
Scots Foot Guards were posted under Viscount
Kingston, to cover the approach to the city in
1666, when the Covenanters took post at Pentland,
prior to their defeat at Rullion Green.
In ~Ggo the money and corn rents of the muir
amounted to on1y;Gr 26 19s. 6d. sterling; andabou!
that time a considerable portion of Bruntsfield belonged
to a family named Fairlie.
In I 7 22 Colonel J. Chomly’s Regiment-the
26th or Cameronians-was encamped on the
Links, where a quarrel ensued between a Captain
Chiesley and a Lieutenant Moodie; and these
two meeting one day in the Canongate, attacked
each other sword in hand, and each, after a sharp
conflict, mortally wounded the other, “Mr. Moodie’s
lady looking over the window all the while this
bloody tragedy was acting,” as the Caledonian
Mernrry of the 7th August records.
At the north-west corner of Bruntsfield Links
there stood, until the erection of Glengyle Terrace,
Valleyfield House, an ancient edifice, massively
built, and having a half-timber front towards the
old Toll-cross, which was long there. It had great
crowstepped gables and enormous square chimneys,
was three storeys in height, with small
windows, and was partly quadrangular. Traditionally
it was said to have been a temporary
residence of the Regent Moray during an illness ;
but, if so, it must at some time have been added
to, or changed proprietors, as on the door-lintel of
the high and conically-roofed octagon stair, on its
east side, were the date 1687, with the initials,
M. c. M. Its name is still retained in the adjacent
thoroughfare called Valleyfield Street.
A little way northward of its site is Leven
Lodge, a plain but massive old edifice, that once
contained a grand oak staircase and stately dining-
‘ hall, with windows facing the south; but now
almost hidden amid encircling houses of a humble
and sordid character. It was the country villa of
the Earls of Leven, and in 17 j8 was the residence
of George sixth Earl of Northesk, who married
Lady Anne Lesly, daughter of Alexander Earl of
Leven, and their only son, David Lord Rosehill
was born there in the year mentioned.
In 1811 it was the residence of Lady Penelope
Belhaven, youngest daughter of Ronald Macdonald
of Clanronald; she died in 1816, since when, no
doubt, its declension began. It was about that
time the property of Captain Swinton of Drum
dryan.
Immediately south of Valleyfield House, at the
delta formed by a conglomeration of old edifices,
known under the general name of the Wright’s
houses, and on the site of an old villa of the
Georgian era, that stood within a carriage entrance,
was built, in 1862-3, the Barclay Free Church at an
expense of ~ ~ o , o o o , and from the bequest of a lady
of that name. It is said to be in the second style
of Pointed architecture, but is correctly described
by Professor Blackie as being “ full of individual
beauties or prettinesses in detail, yet as a whole,
disorderly, inorganic, and monstrous.” By some it
is called Venetian Gothic. It has, however, a
stately tower and slender spire, that -rises to a
height of 250 feet, and is a landmark over a vast
extent of country, even from Inverkeithing in Fifeshire.
In its vicinity are Viewforth Free Church, built in
187 1-2 at a cost of A5,000, in a geometric Gothic
style, with a tower I 12 feet high ; and the Gilmore
Place United Presbyterian Church, the congregation
of which came hither from the Vennel, and
which, after a cost of A7,9oo for site and erection,
was opened for service in April, 188~.
No part of Edinburgh has a more agreeable
southern exposure than those large open spaces
round the hleadows (which we have described
elsewhere) and Bruntsfield Links, which contribute
both to their health and amenity.
The latter have long been famous as a playground
for the ancient and national game of golf,
and strangers who may be desirous of enjoying it,
are usually supplied with clubs and assistants at
the old Golf Tavern, that overlooks the breezy
and grassy scene of operations, which affords space
for the members of no less than six golf clubs,
viz :-the Burghers, instituted 1735 ; the Honourable
Company of Edinburgh, instituted prior to
1744; the Bruntsfield, instituted 1761 ; the Allied
Golfing Club, instituted 18 j6 ; the Warrender,
instituted 1858; and the St. Leonards, instituted
1857. Each of these is presided over by a captain,
and the usual playing costume is a scarlet coat, with
the facings and gilt buttons of the club.
To dwell at length on the famous game of golf
is perhaps apart from the nature of this work, and
yet, as these Links have been for ages the scene of
that old sport, a few notices of it may be acceptable.
It seems somewhat uncertain at what precise
period golf was introduced into Scotland ; but
some such game, called cambuca, was not unknown
in England during the reign of Edward
III., as we may learn from Strutt’s “Sports and
Pastimes,’’ but more probably he refers to that
known as Pall Mall. Football was prohibited
by Act of the Scottish Parliament in 1424, as interfering
with the more necessary science of ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [ Burghmuir. hollows are still discernible, and in them thc Scots Foot Guards were ...

Vol. 5  p. 30 (Rel. 0.23)

smaller cross was raised, " In memory of Colonel
Kenneth Douglas Mackenzie, C.B., who served for
forty-two years in the 92nd Highlanders-who saw
much of service in the field, and deserved well of
his country in war and in peace. . . . Died on
duty at Dartmoor, 24th August, 1873."
On the green bank behind the duke's statue is a
Two relics of great autiquity remain on this side
of the Castle bank-a fragment of the secret
passage, and the ruins of the Well-house tower,
which, in 1450, and for long after, guarded the
pathway that led under the rock to the church oi
St. Cuthbert. Within the upper and lower portion
of this tower, a stair, hewn in the living rock, was
EDINBURGH CASTLE, FROM THE KING'S MEWS, 1825. (AfterEw6ank.)
very curious monumental stone, which, however,
can scarcely be deemed a local antiquity-though
of vast age. It was brought from the coast of
Sweden by Sir -4lexander Seton, of Preston, many
years ago. On it is engraved a serpent encircling a
cross, and on the body of the former is an inscription
in runes, signifying-
ARI ENGRAVED THIS STONE I q MEMORY
OF HIALM, HIS FATHER.
.
GOD HELP HIS SOUL!
found a few years ago, buried under a mass of
rubbish, among which was a human skull, shattered
by concussion on a step. Many human bones lay
near it, with various coins, chiefly of Edward I. and
Edward 111. ; others were Scottish and foreign.
Many fragments of exploded bombs were found
among the upper layer of rubbish, and in a
breach of the tower was found imbedded a
48-pound shot. At certain seasons,. woodcock,
snipe, and waterducks are seen hovering near ... cross was raised, " In memory of Colonel Kenneth Douglas Mackenzie, C.B., who served for forty-two ...

Vol. 1  p. 80 (Rel. 0.23)

founder to his new monastery were the churches
of St. Cuthbert. and of the Castle, among which
one plot of land belonging to the former is marked
by ‘‘ the fountain which rises near the king’s garden,
on the road leading to 3t. Cuthbert‘s church,” i.e.,
the fountain in the Well-house Tower.
This valley-the future North Loch-was then
Castle, where, in the twenty-first year of his reign,
he granted a charter to the Abbey of Kelso, the
witnesses to which, apud Castrum PueZZarum, were
John, Bishop of Glasgow ; Prince Henry, his son ;
William, his nephew ; Edward, the Chancellor ;
‘‘ BarthoZomeo $Zio Cornitis, et WiZZieZnza frateer
i u s ; Jordan0 Hayrum;” Hugo de Morville, thc
ST. MARGARET’S CHAPEL, EDINBURGH CASTLE,
the garden, which Malcolm, the son of Pagan, culjivated
for David II., and where tournaments were
held, 44 while deep pools and wide morasses, tangled
wood and wild animals, made the rude diverging
pathways to the east and westward extremely dangerous
for long after, though lights were burned at
the Hermitage of St. Anthony on the Crag and
the spire of St. John of Corstorphin, to guide the
unfortunate wight who was foolhardy enough to
travel after nightfall.”
In 1144 we find (King David resident in the
constable ; Odenell de Umphraville ; Robert Bruce ;
William of Somerville; David de Oliphant; and
William of Lindsay.
The charter of foundation to the abbey of
Holyrood-which will be referred to more fully in
its place-besides conferring valuable revenues,
derivable from the general resources of the city,
gave the monks a right to dues to nearly the same
amount from the royal revenues of the port of
Perth, which was the more ancient capital of
Scotland. ... to his new monastery were the churches of St. Cuthbert. and of the Castle, among which one plot of land ...

Vol. 1  p. 20 (Rel. 0.22)

The Water of Leith.] THE LAUDERS. 83
massive little mansion of Groat Hall, with a thatched
roof, whilom the property of Sir John Smith, Provost
of the city in 1643, whose daughter figured
as the heroine of the strange story connected with
the legend of the Morocco Land in the Canongate,
and whose sister (Giles Smith) was wife of Sir
William Gray of Pittendrum.
St. Cuthbert’s Poorhouse, a great quadrangular
edifice, stands in the eastern vicinity of Craigleith
Quarry. It was built in 1866-7, at a cost of
jG40,000, and has amenities of situation and
elegance of structure very rarely associated with
a residence for the poor.
Eastward of Stockbridge, and almost forming an
integral part of it, lies the now nearly absorbed and
half extinct, but ancient, village of Silvermills, a secluded
hamlet once, clustering by the ancient milllade,
and which of old lay within the Earony of
Broughton. It was chiefly occupied by tanners,
whose branch of trade is still carried on there by
the lade, which runs under Clarence Street: through
the village, and passes on to Canonmills. Some of
the houses still show designs of thistles and roses
on gablets, With the crowsteps of the sixteenth
century.
A little to the west of St. Stephen’s Church, a
narrow lane leads downward to the village, passing
through what was apparently the main street, and
emerges at Henderson Row, so called from the
Lord Provost of that name. According to
Chambers, a walk on a summer day from the old
city to the village, a hundred years ago, was considered
a very delightful one, and much ‘adopted
by idlers, the roads being then through corn-fields
and pleasant nursery-grounds.
No notice, says Chambers, has ever been taken
of Silvermills in any of the books regarding Edicburgh,
nor has any attempt ever been made to
account for its somewhat piquant name. “I
shall endeavour to do so,” he adds. “In 1607
silver was found in considerable abundance at
Hilderstone, in Linlithgowshire, on the property of
the gentleman who figures as Tarn 0’ the Cowgate.
Thirty-eight barrels of ore were sent to the mint in
the Tower of London to be tried, and were found
to give twenty-four ounces of silver for every
hundredweight. Expert persons were placed upon
the mine, and mills were erected upon the Water
of Leith for the melting and fining the ore. The
sagacious owner gave the mine the name of Go8s
BZessing. By-and-bye the king heard of it, and,
thinking it improper that any such fountain of
wealth should belong to a private person, purchased
‘ God‘s Blessing’ for L~,OOO, that it might
be worked upon a larger scale for the benefit of
the public But somehow, from the time it left
the hands of the original owner, ‘ God’s Blessing’
ceased to be anything like so fertile as it had been,
and in time the king withdrew from the enterprise,
a great loser. The Silvermills I conceive to have
been a part of the abandoned plant.”
This derivation seems extremely probable, but
Wilson thinks the name may have originated in
some of the alchemical projects of James IV., or
his son, James V.
city,” says the Edinburgh Week& Magazine for
January, 1774, “we are informed of a very singular
accident. On the nights of the zznd, 23rd, and
24th inst., the Canonmills dam, by reason of the
intenseness of the frost, was so gorged with ice and
snow, that at last the water, finding no vent, stagnated
to such a degree that it overfIowed the
lower floors of the houses in Silvermills, which
obliged many of the inhabitants to remove to the
risi,ng grounds adjacent. One family in particular,
not perceiving their danger till they observed the
cradle with a child in it afloat, and all the furniture
swimming, found it necessary to make their
escape out of the back windows, and were carried
on horseback to dry land.”
St. Stephen’s Established Church, at the foot
of St. Vincent Street, towers in a huge mass over
Silvermills, and was built in 1826-8, after designs
by W. H. Playfair, It is a massive octagonal
structure in mixed Roman style, with a grand, yet
simple, entrance porch, and a square tower 165 feet
high. It contains above 1,600 sittings. The parish
was disjoined from the conterminous parishes in
1828 by the Presbytery of Edinburgh and the Teind
Court. Itwas opened on Sunday, the 20th December,
1828, when the well-known Dr, Brunton preached
to the Lord Provost and magistrates in their official
robes, and the Rev. Henry Grey officiated in the
afternoon.
In an old mansion, immediately behind where
this church now stands, were born Robert Scott
Lauder, R.S. A., and his brother, James Eckford
Lauder, RSA., two artists of considerable note in
their time. The former was born in 1803, and for
some years, after attaining a name, resided in.No. 7,
Carlton Street. A love of art was early manifested
by him, and acquaintance with his young neighbour,
David Roberts, fostered it. The latter instructed
him in the mode of mixing colours, and urged him
to follow art as a profession ; thus, in his youth he
entered the Trustees’ Academy, then under the
care of Mr. Andrew Wilson.
After this he went to London, and worked with
great assiduity in the British Museum. In 1826
“From Silvermills, a little northward of this . ... Water of Leith.] THE LAUDERS. 83 massive little mansion of Groat Hall, with a thatched roof, whilom the ...

Vol. 5  p. 83 (Rel. 0.22)

The Water of Leith.] DANIEL STEWART. 67
with sword and sash, wig and cocked hat, queue
and ruffles. After looking at him steadily, but sadly,
the figure melted away; and, as usual with such
spectral appearances, it is alleged young Nisbet was
shot at the same moment, in an encounter with the
colonists.
In 1784 the Dean House was the residence of
Thomas Miller, Lord Barskimming, and Lord
Justice Clerk. In 1845 it was pulled down, when
the ground whereon it had stood so long was
acquired by a cemetery company, and now-save
the sculptured stones we have described--no relic
remains of the old Nisbets of Dean but their burial
place at the West Church-a gloomy chamber of
the dead, choked up with rank nettles and hemlock.
By 1881 the old village of Dean was entirely
cleared away. Near its centre stood the blacksmith’s
forge of Robert Orrock, who was indicted for
manufacturing pikes for the Friends of the People
in 1792. He and his friend, Arthur McEwan,
publican in Dean Side, Water of Leith village,
were legally examined at the time, and it is supposed
that many of the pikes were thrown into the
World’s End Pool, below the waterfall at the
Damhead. South of the smithy was the village
school, long taught by “ auld Dominie Fergusson.”
North of it stood the old farmhouse and steading
of the Dean Farm, all swept away like the quaint
old village, which’was wont to be a bustling place
when the commander-in-chief of the forces in
Scotland tenanted the Dean, and mounted orderlies
came galloping up the steep brae, and often reined
up their horses at the “Speed the Plough” alehouse,
before the stately gate.
Somewhere in the immediate vicinity of this
old village a meeting-house was erected in 1687
for the Rev. David Williamson, of St. Cuthbert’s,
who was denounced as a rebel, and intercommuned
in 1674 for holding conventicles, but was sheltered
secretly in the Dean House by Sir Patrick Nisbet.
In 1689 he was restored to his charge at the West
Church, and was one of the commissioners sent to
congratulate King William on his accession to the
throne.
Now all the site of the village and farms, and
the land between them and the Dean Bridge, is
covered by noble streets, such as Buckingham
Terrace and Belgrave Crescent, the position of
which is truly grand. In 1876 a movement was
se: on foot by the proprietors of this crescent, led
by Sir James Falshaw, Bart, then Lord Provost,
which resulted in the purchase of the ground between
it and the Dean village, at a cost of about
A5,ooo. In that year it was nearlyall covered by
kitchen gardens, ruinous buildings, and brokendown
fences. These and the irregularities of the
place have been removed, while the natural undulations,
which add such beauty to the modem
gardens, have been preserved, and the plantations
and walks are laid out with artistic effect,
The new parish church-which was built in
1836, in the Gothic style, for accommodation of
the inhabitants of the Water of Leith village1 and
those of the village of Dean-stands on the western
side of the old Dean Path.
Farther westward is Stewart’s Hospital, built in
1849-53, after designs by David Rhind, at a cost
of about ~30,000, in a mixture of the latest
domestic Gothic, with something of the old castellated
Scottish style. It comprises a quadrangle,
about 230 feet in length by IOO feet in minimum
breadth, and has two main towers, each 120 feet
high, with several turrets.
Mr. Daniel Stewart, of the Scottish Exchequer,
who died in 1814, left the residue of his property,
amounting (after the erection and endowment of a
free school in his native parish of Logieraitj to
about ;G13,000, with some property in the old
town, to accumulate for the purpose of founding a
hospital for the maintenance of boys, the children
of honest and industrious parents, whose circumstances
do not enable them suitably to support and
educate their children at other schools. Poor boys
of the name of Stewart and Macfarlane, resident
within Edinburgh and the suburbs, were always
to have a preference. The age for admission was
to be from seven to ten, and that for leaving at
fourteen .
The Merchant Company, as governors, taking
advantage of the powers given them by the provisional
order obtained in 1870, opened the hospital
as a,day school in the September of that
year. The education provided is of a very superior
order, qualifying the pupils for commercial
or professional life, and for the universities. The
course of study includes English, Latin, Greek,
French, German, and all the usual branches, including
drill, fencing, and gymnastics.
The Orphan Hospital at the Dean was erected
in 1833, after elegant designs by Thomas Hamilton,
at a cost of A16,000, in succession to the
older foundation, which we have already described
as standing eastward of the North Bridge, on the
site of the railway terminus. It comprises a large
central block, with two projecting wings, a portico
of Tuscan columns, and two light, elegant quadrangular
towers with arches, and has within its
clock-turret on the summit of its front the ancient
clock of the Nether Bow Port.
Its white facade stands boldly and pleasingly ... Water of Leith.] DANIEL STEWART. 67 with sword and sash, wig and cocked hat, queue and ruffles. After looking ...

Vol. 5  p. 67 (Rel. 0.22)

300 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Leith Wynd.
broad and spacious thoroughfare, named St. Mary’s
Street, presenting on its eastern side a series of
handsome fapdes, in the Scottish domestic style,
with a picturesque variet)iof outline and detail.
edifice a relic of one of the older ones, a lintel
inscribed thus, with the city motto :-
NISI . DEVS . FRVSTRA.
I B 1523 E L
C H A P T E R X X X V I I .
LEITH WYND.
Leith Wynd-Our Lady’s Hompita-Paul’s Work-The Wall of r540-Its Fall in 1854-The “Happy Land”-Mary of Gueldres-Trinity
College Church-Some Particulars of its Charter-Interior View- Decorations-Enlargement of the Establishment-Privileges of its
Ancient Officers-The Duchess of Lennox-Lady Jane Hamilton-Curious Remains-Trinity Hospital-Sir Simon Preston’s “ Public
Spirit ”-Become5 a Corporation Chariw-Description of BuildinpPmvisions for the Inmates-Lord Cockburn’s Female Pensioner- .
basement of which is occupied by spacious shops,
and which stands upon the site of the old “White
Horse ” Inn, as an inscription built into the wall
records thus :-
Edin6urgic, I& Augwt, 1773, on his m.emorabZe four to the
Hebrides, occuj.ied the Zargerpavt (If the si& .f f h i Eui(ding.”
There is also built into another part of the
‘ I Boyd’s Inn, at which DY. Samuel phnson oflived in .
Demolition of the Hospital-Other Charities.
THE connecting link between St. Mary’s Wynd
and Leith Wynd was the Nether Bow Port, a barrier,
concerning the strength of which that veteran
marshal, the Duke of Argyle, spoke thus in the
debate of 1736 in reference to the Porteous mob:-
. ‘‘ The Nether Bow Gate, my Lords, stands in a
narrow street; near it are always a number of
coaches and carts. Let us suppose auother insurrection
is to happen. In that case, my Lords,
should the conspirators have the presence of mind
to barricade the street with these carriages, as may
‘ be done by a dozen of fellows, I affirm, and I
appeal for the truth of what I advance to any man
of my trade, who knows the situation of the place,
if five hundred men may not keep out ten thousand
for a longer time than that in which the mob
executed their bloody designs against Porteous.”
From the end of this gate, and bordered latterly
on the west by the city wall, Leith Wynd, which
is now nearly all a thing of the past, ran down
the steep northern slope towards the base of the
Calton Hill.
In the year 1479, Thomas Spence, Bishop of
many who are honorary, but subscribe to the Association,
the objects of which are to promote sobriety,
religious deportment, and a brotherly feeling among
young men of the Catholic faith. It contains a
library and reading room, lecture and billiard room.
It has a dramatic association, and by the committee
who conduct it no means are left untried to increase
the moral culture of the members,
Aberdeen, previously of Galloway, and Lord Privy
Seal, founded, at the foot of Leith Wynd, and on
the east side thereof, a hospital for the reception
and entertainment of twelve poor men, under the
name of ‘‘ the Hospital of our Blessed Lady, in Leith
Wynd :’ and subsequently it received great augmentations
to its revenues from other benefactors ;
but at first the yearly teinds did not amount to
twelve pounds sterling, according to Arnot. From
the name afterwards given to it, we are led to suppose
that among the future benefactions there had
been added a chapel or altarage, dedicated to St.
Paul.
The records of Parliament show that somewhere
in Edinburgh there were a hospital and chapel dedicated
to that apostle, and that there was a chapel
dedicated to the Virgin in 1495, by Sir William
Knolles, Preceptor of Torphichen, who fell with
King James at Flodden.
The founder of the hospital in Leith Wynd died
at Edinburgh on the rgth of April, 1480, and was
buried in the north aisle of Trinity College church,
near his foundation.
’ ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Leith Wynd. broad and spacious thoroughfare, named St. Mary’s Street, presenting on ...

Vol. 2  p. 300 (Rel. 0.22)

Kolyrood.] THE COFFIN OF JAMES V. 65
Appended to this scroll was a minute of thei
possessions, with a hint of the pecuniary advantager
to result from forfeiture. This dangerous policy
James repelled by exclaiming, ‘‘ Pack you, javels !
(knaves). Get you to your religious charges ; reform
your lives, and be not instruments of discord
between me and my nobles, or else I shall reform
you, not as the King of Denmark does, by im
prisonment, nor yet as the King of England does
by hanging and heading, but by sharp swords,
if I hear of such hotion of you again ! ”
From this speech it has been suppqsed that
Jxnes contemplated some reform in the then
dissolute Church. But the rout at Solway
followed; his heart was broken, and on learning
the birth of his daughter Mary, he died in despair
at Falkland, yet, says Pitscottie, holding up his
hands to God, as he yielded his spirit. He was
interred in the royal vault, in December, 1542,
at Holyrood, where, according to a MS. in the
Advocates’ Library, his body was seen by the Earl
of Forfar, the Lord Strathnaver, and others, who
examined that vault in 1683. “We viewed the
body of James V. It lyeth within ane wodden
coffin, and is coverit with ane lead coffin. There
seemed to be hair upon the head still. The
body was two lengths of my staff with twa inches
more, which is twae inches and more above twae
Scots elms, for I measured the staff with an ellwand
afterward. The body was coloured black with ye
balsam that preserved it, and which was lyke
melted pitch. The Earl of Forfar took the measure
with his staf lykewayes” On the coffin was the
inscription, flhstris Scoturum, Rex Jacobus, gus
Nominis E, with the dates of his age and death.
The first regent after that event was James,
second Earl of Arran (afterwards Duke of Chatelherault,
who had been godfather to James, the
little Duke of Rothesay, next heir to the crown,
failing the issue of the infant Queen Mary), and in
1545 this high official was solemnly invested at
Holyrood, together with the Earls of Angus, Huntly,
and Argyle, with the collar and robes of St.
Michael, sent by the King of France, and at the
hands of the Lyon King of Arms.
We have related how the Church suffered at
the hands of English pillagers after Pinkie, in
1547. The Palace did not escape. Seacombe, in
his ‘‘ History of the House of Stanley,” mentions
that Norns, of Speke Hall, Lancashire, an
English commander at that battle, plundered
from Holyrood all or most of the princely
library of the deceased King of Scots, James V.,
“particularly four large folios, said to contain
the Records and Laws of Scotland at that time.”
He also describes a grand piece of wainscot,
now in Speke Hall, as having been brought from
the palace, but this is considered, from its style,
doubtful.
During the turmoils and troubles that ensued
after Mary of Guise assumed the regency, her
proposal, on the suggestion of the French Court,
to form a Scottish standing army like that of
France, so exasperated the nobles and barons,
that three hundred of them assembled at
Holyrood in 1555, and after denouncing the
measure in strong terms, deputed the Laird of
Wemyss and Sir James Sandilands of Calder to
remonstrate with her on the unconstitutional step
she was meditating, urging that Scotland had
never wanted brave defenders to fight her battles
in time of peril, and that they would never submit
to this innovation on their ancient customsc
This spirited remonstrance from Holyrood had the
desired effect, as the regent abandoned her pro--
ject. She came, after an absence, to the palace in
the November of the following year, when the
magistrates presented her with a quantity of new
wine, and dismissed McCalzean, an assessor of the
city, who spoke to her insultingly in the palace on
the affairs of Edinburgh; and in the following
February she received and entertained the ambassador
of the Duke of Muscovy, who had been
shipwrecked on his way to England, whither she
sent him, escorted by 500 lances, under the Lord
Home.
After the death of Mary of Guise and the arrival
of her daughter to assume the crown of her ancestors,
the most stirring scenes in the history of the
palace pass in review. ... THE COFFIN OF JAMES V. 65 Appended to this scroll was a minute of thei possessions, with a hint of the ...

Vol. 3  p. 65 (Rel. 0.22)

TU Cowpate.] THE HAMMERMEN. 263
reference to those trades which form the United
Incorporation of Hammermen, and to the old city
companies and trades in generaL
‘6 The Hammerer’s Seill of Cause,” was issued
on the 2nd Nay, 1483, by Sir Patrick Baron of
Spittalfield, Knight, Provost ‘of the City, Patrick
Balbirge of that ilk, David Crawford of St. Giles’s
Grange, and Archibald Todrig, being bailies ; and
under the general name are’included at that time,
blacksmiths, goldsmiths, lorimers, saddlers, cutlers,
buckler-makers, armourers, (( and all others
within the said burgh of Edinburgh.” Pewterers
were afterwards included, and a heckle-maker so
lately as 1609. By the rule of the corporation it
was statute and ordained, that ‘‘ na hammerman,
maister, feitman, servand, nor utheris, tak vpon
hand fra this tyme furth, to exercise or use ony
mair craftis but alanerly ane, and to live thairupon,
sua that his brether craftismen be not hurt throu
his large exercitation and exceeding of boundis,”
Src. And all the privileges of the haminermen
were ratified by Act of Parliament so recently
as September, 1681, when shearsmiths appear as
members of the corporation. In those days all the
operations of industry were treated as secrets.
Each trade was a craft, and those who followed
it were called craftsmen ; and skilled artisans were
‘‘ cunning men.” (Smiles.)
The Hammermen’s seal bears the effigyof St.
Eloi, in apostolical vestments, in a church porch
surmounted by five pinnacles, holding in one hand
a hammer, and in the other a key, with the legend,
(( Sig2lum commune artis tudiatorum.”
By the end of the 16th century the manufacture
of offensive weapons predominated over all other
trades in the city. The essay-piece ofa cutler, prior
to his admission to the corporation, was a wellfinished
“quhinzier,” or sword; and there were
gaird-makers, whose business consisted in fashioning
the hilts ; dalmascars, who gilded weapons and
armour. In 1582 sword blades were damascened
at Edinburgh ; but ‘‘ Hew Vans, dalmascar, was
ordained not to buy blades to sell again,” his business
being confined to gilding steel. There were
also the belt-makers, who wrought military girdles ;
dag-makers, who made hackbutts (short guns),
and dags, or pistols ; but all these various trades
became associated in the general one of armourers
or gunsmiths, as the wearing of weapons
began to fall into desuetude, and other arts connected
with civilisation and luxury began to take
their places.
In 1586 a locksmith is first found in Edinburgh,
where he was the cnly one, and could only make
a ‘‘ kist-lock.” Tirling-pins, wooden latches, and
transom bars, were the appurtenances of doors
before his time generally. But by 1609, “as the
security of property increased,” says Chambers,
the essay was a kist-lock and a hing and bois
lock with ane double plate lock ;” and, in 1644,
‘‘ a key and sprent band were added to the essay.”
In 1682 “a cruik and cruik band’ were further
added; and in 1728, for the safety of the liegeq
the locksmiths’ essay was appointed to be ‘‘ a cruik
and cruik-band, a pass-lock with a round filled
bridge, not cut or broke in the backside, with nobs
and jamb bound.” The trade of a shearsmith
appears first in 1595 in Edinburgh, and in 1613
Thomas Duncan, the first tinkler in the city was
admitted a hammerman. The trade of a pewterer
is found as far back as 1588; the first knockmaker
(or clockmaker) appears in 1647, but his
business was so limited that he added thereto
the making of locks. (“ Traditions of Edin.”) In
1664 the first white iron smith was admitted a
hammerman, and the first harnessmaker, though
lorimers-manufacturers of the iron-work used in
saddlery-were members. since 1483. The first
maker of surgical instruments in Edinburgh was
Paul Martin, a French Protestant refugee, in 1691.
In 1720 the first pin-maker appears ; and in 1764
the first edge-tool maker, and the first manufacturer
of fish-hooks.
By the first charter of the hammermen all a p
plicants for admission were examined by the
deacons and masters of their respective arts, as to
their qualifications ; and any member found guilty
of a bre?ch of any one of the articles contained in
their charter, was fined eight shillings Scots towards
the support of the corporation’s altar of St. Eloi in
St Giles’s Church and the chaplain thereof. The
goldsmiths were separated from the hammermen in
1581 ; but since then many other crafts have joined
them, including gunsmiths, watchmakers, founders,
braziers, and coppersmiths.
The cordiners, or shoemakers, were first created
into a society by the magistrates on the 28th of
July, 1449 (according to Maitland), in terms of
which each master of the trade who kept a booth
within the town, paid one penny Scots, and the;.
servants one halfpenny, towards the support of
their altar of St. Crispin, in St. Giles’s Church. A
new seal of cause was granted to them in 1509, and
another in 1586, which enacted that their shops were
not to be open on Sundays after g AM., and that no
work was to be done on that day under pain of twenty
shillings fine. It also regulated the days of the
week on which leather boots and shoes could be sold
by strangers in booths. This charter was confirmed
on 6th March, 1598, by James VI., in considera ... Cowpate.] THE HAMMERMEN. 263 reference to those trades which form the United Incorporation of Hammermen, and ...

Vol. 4  p. 263 (Rel. 0.22)

vi OLD APU'D NEW EDINBURGH.
CHAPTER XXII.
ST. ANDREW SQUARE.
PAGE
St. Andrew Sq-Lst .of Early R e s i d e n u t Bomwlaski-Miss Gordon of CLuny-SconiSh W d m ' Fund-Dr. A. K. Johnstoo
--Scottish Provident Institution-House in which Lord Bmugham was Bom-Scottish Equitable Society-Charteris of Amisfield-
Douglas's Hotel-Sk Philip Ainslie-British Linen Company-National Bank--Royal Baulc-The Melville and Hopetoun Monuments
-Ambm's Tavern. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . I66
CHAPTER XXIII.
CHARLOTTE S Q U A R E ,
Charlotle Sq-Its Early OccuPantgSu John Sinclair, B a r t - b o n d of that Ilk-Si Wdliam Fettes-Lard chief Commissioner Adam
-Alexander Dimto-St. George'r Church-The Rev. Andrew Thomson-Prince ConSmt's Memorial-The Parallelogram of the first
New Town. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . -172
CHAPTER XXIV.
ELDER STREET-LEITH STREET-BROUGHTON STREET.
Elder Street--Leith Street-The old "Black BuU"-Margarot-The Theatre Royal-Its Predecessors on the same Site-The Circus-
C o d s Rooms-The Pantheon-Caledonian Thoaue--Adelphi Theatre-Queen's Theatre and Open House-Burned and Rebuilt-
~ t . wary's chapel-~ishop Cameron . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .176
CHAPTER XXV.
THE VILLAGE AND BARONY OF BROUGHTON.
Bmghton-The Village and Barmy-The Loan-Bmughton first mentioned-Feudal Superio+Wttches Burned-Leslie's Headquarters
-Gordon of Ellon's Children Murdered-Taken Red Hand-The Tolbooth of the Burgh-The Minute Books-Free Burgews-
Modern Ch& Meted in the Bounds of the Barony . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .r80
CHAPTER XXVI.
THE NORTHERN NEW TOWN.
Picardy PI-Lords Eldm and CDig-Su David Milm--Joho AbcrcmmbitLord Newton--cOmmissioner Osborne-St. PauPs Church
-St. George's Chapel-Wib Douglas, Artist-Professor Playfair-Gcned Scott of BellencDrummond Place-C K. Sharpe of
Hoddam-Lard Robertson-Abercmmbie Place and Heriot Row-Miss Femer-House in which H. McKenzie died-Rev. A. Aliin
-Great King Street-Sir R Chrii-Sir WillLm Hamilton-Si William Allan--Lord Colonsay, Lc. . . . . . . . 185
CHAPTER XXVII.
THE NORTHERN NEW TOWN (codu&d).
AdrnLal Fairfax-Bishop Terrot-Brigadier Hope-Sir T. M. Brisbam-Lord Meadowbank-Ewbank the R.S.A-Death of Professor
Wilson-Moray Place and its Distria-Lord President Hope-The Last Abode of Jeffrey-Bamn Hume and Lord Moncrieff-
Fom Street-Thomas Chalmers, D.D.-St. Colme Street-Cap& Basil Hall--Ainslie Place-Dugald Stewart-Dean Ramsay-
Great Stuart Slreet--Pmfessor Aytwn--Mk Graharn of DuntrooPLord Jerviswoodc . . . . . . . . . . I98
CHAPTER XXVIII.
THE WESTERN NEW TOWN-HAYMARKET-DALRY-FOUNTAINBRIDGE.
Maithd Street and Shandwick Place-The Albert Institute--Last Residence of Sir Wa'ta Smtt in Edinburgh-Lieutenant-General
DundatMelville Street-PatricL F. Tytler--Manor Piace-St. M q ' s Cathedral-The Foundation Ud-Its Si and Aspxt-
Opened for Srrsice--The Copstone and Cross placed on the Spire-Haymarket Station-Wmta Garden-Donaldson's Hospital-
Castle Te-Its Churches-Castle Barns-The U. P. Theological Hall-Union Canal-Fkt Boat Launched-Dalry-The Chieslies
-The Caledoniau Dstillery-Foun&bridg=-Earl Grey Street-Professor G:J. Bell-The Slaughter-ho-Baii Whyt of Bainfield
-Nd British India Rubber Works-Scottish Vulcanite CompanpAdam Ritchie . . . . . . . . . . . . Z q ... OLD APU'D NEW EDINBURGH. CHAPTER XXII. ST. ANDREW SQUARE. PAGE St. Andrew Sq-Lst .of Early R e s i d e n u t ...

Vol. 4  p. 388 (Rel. 0.22)

by a man named Clark, in the Fleshmarket Close.
He had the tact and art to keep his secret profligacy
unknown, and was so successful in blinding his
fellow-citizens that he continued a highly reputable
member of the Town Council until within a short
period of the crime for which he was executed,
and, according to “Kay’s Portraits,” it is a siiigular
fact, that little more than a month previously he
there were committed a series ot startling robberies,
and no clue could be had to the perpetrators.
Houses and shops were entered, and articles of
value vanished as if by magic. In one instance a
lady was unable to go to church from indisposition,
and was at home alone, when a man entered with
crape over his face, and taking her keys, opened
her bureau and took away her money, while she re-
BAILIE MACMOBRAN’S HOUSE.
sat as a juryman in a criminal case in that very
court where he himself soon after received sentence
of death.
For years he had been secretly licentious and
dissipated, but it was not until 1786 that he
began an actual career of infamous crime, with
his fellow-culprit, George Smith, a native of Berkshire,
and two others, named Brown and Ainslie.
He was in easy circumstances, with a flourishing
business, and his conduct in becoming a leader of
miscreants seems unaccountable, yet so it was. In
and around the city during the winter of 1787
15
mained panic-stricken; but as he retired she thought,
“surely that was Deacon Brodie !” But the idea
seemed so utterly inconceivable, that she preserved
silence on the subject till subsequent events
transpired. As these mysterious outrages continued,
all Edinburgh became at last alarmed, and in all of
them Brodie was either actively or passively concerned,
till he conceived the-to him-fatal idea
of robbing the Excise office in Chessel’s CQUI~, an
undertaking wholly planned by himself. He visited
the office openly with a friend, studied the details
of the cashier‘s room, and observing the key of the ... a man named Clark, in the Fleshmarket Close. He had the tact and art to keep his secret profligacy unknown, ...

Vol. 1  p. 113 (Rel. 0.22)

9d OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [The Castle HX
one going plump down a vent they set up a shout
of joy. Sir David laughed, and entreated the
father of the lads ‘‘ not to be too angry ; he and
his brother,” he added with some emotion, “when
CANNON BALL IN WALL OF nowE IN CASTLE KILL.
living here at the same age, had indulged in precisely
the same amusement, the chimneys then, as
now, being so provokingly open to attacks, that
there was no resisting the temptation.” From
the Bairds of Newbyth the house passed to the
Browns of Greenbank, and from them, Brown’s
Close, where the modern entrance to it is situated,
On the same side of the street Webster‘s Close
served to indicate the site of the house of Dr.
Alexander Webster, appointed in 1737 to the
Tolbooth church.. In his day one of the most
popular men in the city, he was celebrated for his
wit and socid qualities, and amusing stories are
still told of his fondness for claret With the a s
sistance of Dr. Wallace he matured his favourite
scheme of a perpetual fund for the relief of
widows and children of the clergy of the Scottish
Church; and when, in 1745, Edinburgh was in
possession of the Jacobite clans, he displayed a
striking proof of his fearless character by employing
all his eloquence and influence to retain the
people in their loyalty to the house of Hanover.
He had some pretension to the character of a poet,
2nd an amatory piece of his has been said to rival
-the effusions of Catullus. It was written in allusion
to his mamage with Mary Erskine. There is
one wonderfully impassioned verse, in which, after
describing a process of the imagination, by which
’he comes to think his innamarata a creature of more
. derives its name.
than mortal purity, he says that at length he clasps
her to his bosom and discovers that she is but a
woman after all !
‘‘ When I see thee, I love thee, but hearing adore,
I wonder and think you a woman no more,
Till mad with admiring, I cannot contain,
And, kissing those lips, find you woman again ! ”
He died in January, 1784.
Eastward of this point stands a very handsome
old tenement of great size and breadth, presenting
a front of polished ashlar to the street, surmounted
by dormer windows. Over the main entrance to
Boswell’s Court (so named from a doctor who resided
there about the close of the last century)
there is a shield, and one of those pious legends
so peculiar to most old houses in Scottish burghs.
0. LORD. IN. THE. IS. AL. MI. TRAIST. Andthis
edifice uncorroborated tradition asserts to have
been the mansion of the. Earls of Bothwell.
A tall narrow tenement immediately to the west
of the Assembly Hall forms the last ancient building
on the south side of the street. It was built in
1740, by hfowbray of Castlewan, on the site of ‘
a venerable mansion belonging to the Countess
Dowager of Hyndford (Elizabeth daughter of
John Earl of Lauderdale), and from him it passed,
about 1747, into the possession of William Earl of
Dumfries, who served in the Scots Greys and Scots
Guards, who was an aide de camp at the battle of
Dettingen, and who succeeded his mother, Penelope,
countess in her own right, and afterwards, by the
death of his brother, as Earl of Stair. He was succeeded
in it by his widow, who, within exactly a
year and day of his death, married the Hon.
Alexander Gordon (son of the Earl of Aberdeen),
who, on his appointment to the bench in 1784,
assumed the title of Lord Rockville.
He was the last man of rank who inhabited this
stately uld mansion ; but the narrow alley which
gives‘access to the court behind bore the name
of Rockville Close. Within it, and towards the
west there towered a tall substantial edifice once
the residence of the Countess of Hyndford, and
sold by her, in 1740, to Henry Bothwell of Glencome,
last Lord Holyroodhouse, who died at his
mansion in the Canongate in 1755.
The corner of the street is now terminated by
the magnificent hall built in 1842.3, at the cost
of &16,000 for the accommodation of the General
Assembly, which sits here annually in May, presided
over by a Commissioner, who is always a
Scottish nobleman, and resides in Holyrood Palace,
where he holds royal state, and gives levCes in the
gallery of the kings of Scotland. The octagonal
... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [The Castle HX one going plump down a vent they set up a shout of joy. Sir David ...

Vol. 1  p. 90 (Rel. 0.22)

332 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Aliison Squam
Chloris of some of his finest lyrics, the daughter of
a prosperous farmer at a place called Kemmis
Hall, on the banks of the Nith, and who, after
undergoing many vicissitucies, and having for a
time “had her portion with weeds and outworn
faces,” was seized with consumption, and retired to
an obscure abode in that narrow and gloomy lane.
“ If Fortune smile, be not puffed up,
And if it frown, be not dismayed ;
For Providence govemeth all,
Although the world ’s turned upside down,”
It was in Alison Square that Thomas Campbell,
the poet, resided when writing the ‘‘ Pleasures of
Hope.” He occupied the second floor of a stair
CLARINDA’S HOUSE, GENERAL’S ENTRY.
There she lingered long in loneliness and suffering,
supported by the chanty of strangers, till she found
a final home in Newington burying-ground.
Alison Square, which lay farther south, and
through which a street has now been run, was
built in the middle of the eighteenth century, upon
a venture, by Colin Alison, a joiner, who in after
iife was much reduced in circumstances by the
speculation. In his latter days he erected two
boards on different sides of his buildings, whereon
he had painted a globe in the act of falling, with
this inscription :-
on the north side of the central archway, with
windows looking partly into the Potterrow, and
partly into Nicolson Street. The poem is said to
have been written here in the night, his master‘s
temper being so irritable that it was then only he
could find peace for his task.
Alison Square was completely transformed in
1876, when Marshal1 Street was constructed through
it. A Baptist church, in a most severe Lombardic
style, stands on the north side of this new street.
It was built in 1876-7, at the cost of L4,ooo.
Between 1773 and 1783, Francis, eighth Earl of
tavern
pub
public house
ale house
buildings
close ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Aliison Squam Chloris of some of his finest lyrics, the daughter of a prosperous ...

Vol. 4  p. 332 (Rel. 0.21)